O’Brien’s March Offers. April's on the way...

O’Brien’s March Offers

April's on the way...

O’Brien’s, who have branches nationwide, have regular offers, including one that features dozens of wines with reduced prices for each month. I bought a few of the March bottles and two are featured below. Time is running out! But if you’re too late for March, then you’re in time for April.

Kreydenweiss Kritt Pinot Blanc 2014 (Alsace AOC), 12%, €17.95 (March offer 15.95) O’Brien’s

The initial contacts are promising, including the attractive front label. Color is a bright light gold and the aromas of white fruit are inviting. “A delicate fruity wine” it says on the label and I wouldn't argue too much with that. Delicate, yes, but with a very pleasant presence on the palate, an excellent balance of white fruit flavours, acidity and minerality, and a persistent finish.

This aromatic and dry wine is Highly Recommended. And not just by me. Parker has called it the best value wine in Alsace and our own John Wilson has termed it “captivating”.

Kritt is the vineyard name and it is a stony place. The wine, which features Pinot Blanc on the front label, has a quantity of Pinot Auxerrois blended in according to the back label.

Bethany G6 Semillon 2010 (Barossa, Australia), 12.5%, €18.45 (16.50) O’Brien’s

I do like Semillon on its own and have found some good examples from Bordeaux and from the Hunter Valley in Australia. This though is from the Barossa, where six generations of the Schrapel family have farmed on the same land, hence the G6 title of a series that also includes Riesling, Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz Cabernet, and Cabernet Merlot.

Colour here is light gold with the aromas featuring grapefruit and I detected a little diesel there too which reminded me of a very sociable woman that I met at the Blarney St Patrick's Day Parade who was in her element as the vintage tractors rolled slowly by: “I love diesel!”. Indeed, my tasting partner asked me if we were tasting Riesling.

This Bethany is rather full on the palate, a great balance of fruit (citrus) and a crisp acidity. It has been sparingly oaked to enhance complexity and bottled early “to retain fresh fruit characteristics”. Recommended

Taste of the Week. Kilmichael Goats Cheese

Taste of the Week

Kilmichael Goats Cheese

It comes in simple packaging. Just a round label on top and a wrap of cellophane. But there is a little beauty inside and it is our Taste of the Week. Kilmichael Soft Goats Cheese is made in Terelton, near Macroom, by Brian and Ann Bond. I came across this one in the Fresh from West Cork Cabinet in Bradley’s, North Main Street, Cork, but you will find it in quite a few Farmers Markets as well.

The cheese is made from raw milk, from their mixed herd. It is soft and creamy, as you might imagine, but full of flavour too. And yet the balance of flavour is such that a beginner to goats cheese won't be put off and still there’s enough there to keep you more then happy if you indulge in these cheeses regularly.

Fish’s Special At Electric Bar. Is é an t-íasc is fearr

Fish’s Special At Electric Bar

Is é an t-íasc is fearr

Haddock Koftas

Early on a Friday evening, Electric is the place to be. Take last Friday for example. Around six o’clock, the main restaurant upstairs is full and the bar, with live music, is also busy though not full, not yet!

One of my favourite parts of the South Mall restaurant is The Fish Bar. We were among the first in - well it was about five!  We made our mind up quickly and went for all the specials. The meal was quite superb, not a weak link to be detected, not that we were looking for them, we were too busy enjoying our delicious platefuls.

Sipped an aromatic flavourful Tio Pepe Fino Sherry and took in the views up and down the south channel of the River Lee as we waited while the chef opposite prepared our opening courses.

Bisque with amazing Rouille croutons

Service, mainly provided by smiling “sociable” young people, is always excellent here, always time for a wee chat and a bit of local humour.

Soon we made our start.  Mine was the Langoustine Bisque (€7.00), good and warm and packed full of flavour. And with an unexpected highlight on the side: toasted Rouille croutons. No shortage of garlic on this delightful spread and such a brilliant match with that supple soup.

Meanwhile, CL was silently (there were a few oohs and aahs!) enjoying her Haddock Koftas with grilled pita bread and lemon aioli (€10.00). I managed to “steal” a bite or two and could see that she too was on a winner.

Turbot!

As she was on her main course: the Prawn scampi with lime, chilli and panko crumb, remoulade sauce (€14.00). A lovely light crumb with the prawns cooked to a tantalising tee. Absolutely top class - we shared these last two dishes.

Mine was Pan-roasted Turbot fillets, parmesan and herb crust, rocket pesto (€15.00). Haven't enjoyed this delicious fish as much since I had it in Nerua in Bilbao, a top 100 restaurant worldwide. The Electric effort was positively exquisite, all the elements, not least that delicious complementary crust.

If you don't see anything on the Specials - though I'm sure you will - you’ll have some terrific choices too on the regular menu including non fish dishes such as Hoisin Beef. You could start, for instance, with some oysters and there are a couple of Fish Platters for sharing. then there is Seared Sashimi Tuna, Pil Pil Prawns, and so on.

Scampi.

Some decent bottles of wine, and glasses of course, available too, including Tin Pot Hut’s Pinot Gris and Paddy Borthwick Paper Road Pinot Noir, a handy New Zealand double! And there is a bar downstairs, so you’ll be spoiled for choice if you want beer, bottle or draught; my favourite here would be the local Chieftain IPA by Franciscan Well. Lots of other drinks too including Kir Royales and Mimosas.

All in all, it's a great spot and Very Highly Recommended!

Electric http://www.electriccork.com

41 South Mall, Cork, Ireland

[T] +353 21 4222 990

[E] Book@ElectricCork.com

Amuse Bouche

The next day was Martha’s twenty-ninth birthday, and after she woke, somewhat the worse for wear, at one in the afternoon, Matthews gave her a huge basket of flowers and pulled together a lavish feast of caviar, pâté en croûte, Christmas pudding, and ham, to which Hemingway added bottles of Champagne and Chateau d'Yquem. She didn't feel very celebratory, however; she’d just heard word was out in the United States about her relationship with Hemingway, and she dreaded the consequences….

from Hotel Florida by Amanda Vaill (2014)

Que Syrah, Shiraz. Southern Style.

Que Syrah, Shiraz

Southern Style

Bilancia Syrah 2004 (Hawkes Bay, New Zealand), 13.5%, €25.18 (was 31.50) Karwig Wines.

Before we even get to the contents, there are two things to note here. The grape is called Syrah and the closure is screw-cap. Don't think I’ve ever twisted a cap off a wine as old. In France, the grape is called Syrah. Elsewhere this ever popular grape is known as Shiraz unless the winemaker, as here, is aiming for the more restrained French style.

A small amount of Viognier (c. 2%) has been used here. The term for this, according to Grapes and Wines, is co-fermentation and says it “gives not just perfume but some extra silkiness of texture”. Syrah itself is, of course, a great blender, most famously in the Rhone where it mixes so well with Grenache and Mourvèdre (shorthand: GSM).

This Bilancia (balance) has a purple colour, aromas of ripe fruit, a little pepper. There is a gorgeous elegant mouthfeel, flavours (mainly plum) and spice; lives up to its name with perfect balance and harmony, good finish too. Highly Recommended. 

The Leheny Gibson mentioned on the front label refers to two people, winemakers Lorraine Leheny and Warren Gibson who first released their wines in 1998.

Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2012 (Padthaway, Australia), 14.5%, €16.75 Karwig Wines

This juicy vibrant wine is Shiraz rather than Syrah. Purple is the colour and there in the aromas you'll find ripe red fruits and some spice too. Juicy and vibrant on the palate, fine tannins, oak well integrated, well balanced and easy drinking. Excellent on its own, great too, they suggest, “with food and friends”. Highly Recommended.

Jip Jip Rocks is one of three Bryson family vineyards in the area; the others are Morambro Creek and Mt Monster, who also produce Shiraz. By the way, Jip Jip is well known too for its sparkling shiraz. Quite a few Australian vineyards produce a sparkling shiraz.

David Bryson told me in Cork a few years back that this still Shiraz is their main seller. It is a 100% Shiraz, 100% Padthaway wine with “a lot of vineyard character..a bottle of serious fun…,approachable”.

The Jip Jip rocks have existed for 350 million years and the striking outcrop is sacred to Aboriginal beliefs.

Pielow’s Shiraz 2012, (Tulbagh, Western Cape, South Africa), 14.5%, €17.95 Karwig Wines

Colour is a deep purple, dark fruit aromas plus oak. Quite a lively palate of dark berry fruit flavours, and vanilla; tannins well rounded. No shortage of power here yet it is well balanced with a decent finish. Juicy steaks, barbecued meats and spare ribs are suggested as matches. This is very much a New World Shiraz and is Recommended!

Colin and Teresa Pielow, formerly chef proprietors of two Irish restaurants (including one in Cobh), came to to South Africa a few years back and settled in the beautiful Tulbagh valley in the Cape Winelands. The property where they established and planted their own vineyard has produced this Pielow's Shiraz which is still in their ownership. They have returned to Ireland and opened Pielows Restaurant in Cabinteely where, of course, you may enjoy this fruit-driven Shiraz!

Pielow’s wines are available from:

Pielow's Restaurant, 2 Main Street, Cabinteely, Dublin 18, Ireland

Tel: 01 284 0914 Email: pielows@eircom.net

Karwig Wines, Carrigaline, Co.Cork.

Tel: 021 437 4159 Email: info@karwigwines.ie

Mitchell & Son, Glasthule, 54 Glasthule Road, Glasthule Co. Dublin

Tel: 01 230 2301 Email: glasthule@mitchellandson.com

Avoca Food Market, (stocked by Mitchell & Son), Kilmacanogue. Co. Wicklow

Tel: 01 274 6900 Web: avoca.com

Taste of the Week. Old Millbank Salmon Paté

Taste of the Week

Old Millbank Salmon Paté

Geraldine Bass is a regular at the local farmers markets here in Cork and her Old Millbank Salmon Paté is our Taste of the Week. You’ll certainly see her stall in Mahon Point (Thursdays) and Douglas (Saturdays).

The paté - you can get a nice little pot of it for four euro - comes two ways. The original is in a very tasty creamy paste, ideal for spreading on canapes or, if in  a hurry, spooning! And now there is a variation. She adds little chunks of her salmon to it, giving an extra twist to the texture and the flavour (see photo above). Either way, it’s delicious.

Geraldine also sells her award winning smoked salmon to restaurants and delicatessens.

Old Mill Bank Smoke House, Willow Pond, Summer Park, Buttevant, Co. Cork.

It’s between Mallow and Buttevant, so sometimes you’ll see Mallow in the address.

Email:	bass3@indigo.ie
Phone:	+353 22 23299

And they called it Patty's Day but we changed it! Cheers.

And they called it Patty's Day

but we changed it!

The Bunny from Blarney Chocolate

The Bunny from Blarney Chocolate Pays A Visit

There was a ring at the door. The big white bunny from Blarney Chocolate was outside. And she was carrying a hamper of goodies from their new range. Needless to say, she got a big welcome!

This is her story:

A locally designed Easter range is bouncing into spring with hand crafted and moulded chocolate treats that are mind meltingly wonderful, courtesy of the professional chocolatiers at Blarney Chocolate Factory.  As always the Cork based chocolate company has the perfect chocolate treat for everyone including luxury eggs, a range of smaller eggs and chocolate figures, chocolate truffle boxes and the popular chocolate lollipops and bars. 

For those who are looking for delicious, fun and traditional nod to all things Easter then Blarney Chocolate Factory have a range of medium and large Eggs in Milk or Dark Chocolate which can be decorated and personalised, the only limits being your imagination! For something eggstra special then look no further than the stunning signature Easter product which features a beautiful milk chocolate character of a rabbit and duck in an Egg (€15.95).

A must for Easter egg hunts or perfect for sharing with friends Blarney Chocolate Factory have a number of options ideal for sharing including: six lovely milk chocolate eggs in a chocolate egg box (€12.95), 2 milk chocolate eggs with a bunny lollipop (€5.95), a milk chocolate chicken on a cracked open egg with small praline eggs in a yellow box (€12.95), milk chocolate chick sitting on a milk chocolate egg (€4.95) and last but not least the quirky ‘Croc’ egg in a box with chocolate buttons (€9.95)

The perfect choice for chocolate lovers with a more sophisticated palette are the un-egg-spected flavour range of artisan eggs which include; dark chocolate egg with mint sugar and mint fondant pralines (€12.95), a hazelnut praline egg (€12.95) and the super luxurious large truffle egg which features a half egg of milk or dark chocolate filled with a collection of our pralines, truffles and fondants (€22.95).

Blarney Chocolate Factory is proud of their gifted chocolatiers who lovingly hand crafted each and every piece of chocolate so that their skill and passion can be tasted in every joyful mouthful.

The full Blarney Chocolate Factory Easter range is available at their shop on the square in Blarney Village or online at 

www.blarneychocolatefactory.com/collections/easter

That big white bunny!

About Blarney Chocolate Factory:

Blarney Chocolate Factory opened for business on the first of June 2014. Their charming shop is located in the beautiful square in the centre of Blarney Village and only 100 yards from the entrance to Blarney Castle.  In addition to amazing chocolate products they sell great Coffee, Hot Chocolate and fine Italian Gelato which is also made in Cork.

Italian Trio at O’Brien’s. Bardolino and Soave by Guerrieri Rizzardi

Italian Trio at O’Brien’s

Bardolino and Soave by Guerrieri Rizzardi

On a recent weekend, my local Douglas O’Brien’s - indeed O’Brien’s nationwide - had an Italian tasting, highlighting the wines of Guerrieri Rizzardi from the Veneto. I came away with a few bottles, two Bardolino and one Soave. The Bardolino wine zone may be familiar to quite a few of you as it lies on the eastern shores of Lake Garda, popular with Irish holidaymakers.

Soave is also in the Veneto but further east. The drive for quantity over quality led “to the eventual detriment of the Soave brand” according to Wine-Searcher.com. Yet good producers - and Guerrieri Rizzardi is one of the best there, according to Grapes and Wines -  can make “a complex and satisfying” classico. My bottle comes from the original Classico. Watch out too for Soave Superiore.

Like Soave, the Bardolino viticultural area saw much expansion and again there was a drop in quality. Wines in original areas near Bardolino town are labelled Classico and Superiore as are the ones below. No lack of quality here though! The wines were on offer (offer price in brackets) when I called, but just for that weekend!

Costeggiola Soave Classico 2011, 13.5%, €15.45 (12.36), O’Brien’s

Only about twenty per cent of Soave now comes from the original Classico zone. Costeggiola enjoyed a very good year in 2011. And this is a blend of Garganega (70 per cent minimum) and Chardonnay (30% maximum). No oak has been used but it has been aged on lees.

The characteristics of Garganega are exotic spice, citrus fruit and nutty aromas and Chardonnay is used to enhance richness, body and complexity.

It boasts a lovely light gold colour. Not overly aromatic but pleasant peach and pear notes come through. Fruit and acidity were immediately noted, minerality in play too, and a persistent finish. Recommended.

There is a note on the bottle that this should not be served too chilled. Very important advice! Serve between 12-13 degrees to get the best from your Costeggiola!  With all that lively acidity it would be a pity not to drink this with food and they recommended pairing it with Italian starters, white meats, fresh or smoked seafood, shellfish, goats cheese or tempura prawns. Should be okay too with salads and vegetarian dishes.

Tacchetto Bardolino Classico 2014, 12.5%, €16.45 (13.16) O’Brien’s

This has a very light red colour and indeed is nice and light in many respects, including the fragrant fruity aromas. It is fresh and fruity too on the palate, a little spice too, good acidity and quite a long finish, a beautiful light, smooth easy-drinking wine, good either with or without food. Highly Recommended. And you can make that Very Highly Recommend if you like this easy-drinking fruity style!

There are three grapes variety in the blend - Corvina (80%), Rondinella (10) and Merlot (10) - grown on stony vineyards. Label recommends serving it at 14-16 degrees but a well informed source in Douglas told me he has seen it served lightly chilled.

Food pairings, suggested by the producer: Cajun; rabbit; steak tartar; salami and cold pork meat.

Munus Bardolino Classico Superiore 2013, 13%, €21.45 (14.90) O’Brien’s

This is made from the highest quality grapes (including some very old Corvina) from the best Bardolino vineyards and spends 12 months in seasoned oak. Indeed, Munus is the only red wine cuvée from the Bardolino classico wine area aged in oak barrels. The same three grapes are used: Corvino (70%), Merlot (20%) and Rondinella (10%).

Color is a little darker than the Tacchetto, not by much. Aromas are vibrant and fruity, and follow through to the palate. Flavours are more robust, “more muscle,” I was told in Douglas! Acidity is excellent, hints of sweet spice too, and a good finish too. All that acidity means it's meant for food. Bring on the lamb!  The producer says: “Superb with pork and poultry dishes and lighter game such as partridge and quail. Also porcini mushroom risotto.” Very Highly Recommended.

There are other Guerrieri Rizzardi wines at O'Brien's as well as this trio.

California Wines at Ballymaloe. Variety Under The Sun

California Wines at Ballymaloe

Variety Under The Sun

 No less than eight grape varieties featured as Liam Campbell, in association with Wines of California, presented a very interesting and high quality tasting at the Grainstore in Ballymaloe last Wednesday.

The big “spread” was no accident as Liam deliberately chose to show that the Sunshine State can grow any variety under the sun. “No matter what variety, you can be sure that someone in California is experimenting with it.”

When you think of California, you bring up some lovely images: “Tee-shorts, shorts, flip-flops, beach, laid-back, easy-going. And the producers embrace that friendly attitude and praise one another’s wine.”

He started the whites with Paul Dolan’s 2012 organic Chardonnay from Mendocino. Classic Drinks are the importers and rrp is €26.99. The Dolan family has a Waterford connection. This “is totally dry but fruity with medium acidity”. It is full-bodied, with a persistent finish. Dolan is a leading proponent of biodynamic and organic grape farming, according to Wines of California (2014). This was my favourite of the three whites.

The Benziger 2012 Sauvignon blanc, imported by Febvre (rrp €24.99), “has quite a European accent”, according to Liam. “Great acidity with lemon, lime and apple characteristics, a very versatile food wine”. It certainly went well with the St Tola Ash Goat Cheese.

Benziger, not to be confused with the Beringers, are another vineyard that use natural farming methods and to quote from Wines of California: “The rolling hills of their Glen Ellen estate are home...to..sheep, cattle, and a host of bugs and birds that keep the vineyard in balance."

In between the whites and the reds, Liam spoke about the Morgan Bay 2014 Zinfandel Rose that we had started with as we took our seats in the grainstore. At 10% abv it is a light drink, also a little bit sweet. “But like Blue Nun, it gets people into wine; it is fresh and fruity and a great cheese partner.” Now it was time “to move on to the dark side”.

The reds started with a Pinot Noir, the La Crema (Monterey) 2012, imported by Celtic Whiskey & Wines with an rrp of €31.99. Liam praised it for its high acidity, a great summer wine, versatile and very good with food, not just red meats but may be served cool with poultry, fish and so on. Again, the vineyard is sustainably farmed. 

Wines are produced in four quality levels. We had an excellent example in Ballymaloe but apparently the Point Noir to watch out for is the third tier Russian River Valley 2011 from the Appellation series.

Liam continued his exploration of the many varieties when he next introduced the Barbera 2010 from Montevino (Spanish for mountain wine). “It has  a gentle ruby colour, looks very young for a 2010, plummy aromas now..mouth-watering, gentle tannins, high acidity that cuts the fat in your chorizo!” Sure did. It is imported by Findlaters and rrp is €14.50.

Wouldn't be a Californian tasting without a good red Zinfandel and our example was a Bonterra 2013, with a big abv of 15%, imported by Richmond Market, rrp €18.00. This has a pale-ish ruby colour with black fruits and gentle tannins and was a perfect match with that delicious Mossfield cheese. Bonterra, well known for their Merlot, are the leading producer of organic wines in California.

The Delicato Vineyards are one of the leading family vineyards in the US and produce under a variety of labels including Gnarly Head that you will see in Ireland. We enjoyed their First Press 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, imported by Cassidy Wines and with an rrp of €26.99 .This is ageing well, “a perfect ruby to the edge” and went down well. Liam’s tip here was to decant!

We finished on a high note with a Syrah, the Tepusquet 2013 from Cambria. You'll find it in O'Brien’s at €24.99. The Tepusquet vineyard has been replanted over the past 20 years. Liam: “The nose is subdued but there is a deep mine of flavour, black fruit characteristics and great acidity. Great with steak… but try it with fried calamari! The temptation is to use it now but it will age well.”

It was quite a tasting with nine wines in all. Thanks to Liam, Justine Adams from Wines of California and to Colm McCan of Ballymaloe. Thanks too to Ballymaloe for their terrific matching bites all through.

Some very recent post on California and its wines.
1 - California Trio. Zin, Zin and PN.
2 -Wines from California. Serious. Cheeky and Over Here

Amuse Bouche

If we had waterproof coats it would have been pleasant enough to drive in that spring rain. As it was we sought the shelter of trees or halted at cafés alongside the road. We had a marvellous lunch from the hotel at Lyon, an excellent truffled roast chicken, delicious bread and white Mâcon wine and Scott was very happy when we drank the white Mâconnais at each of our stops. At Mâcon I had bought four more bottles of excellent wine which I uncorked as we needed them.

I am not sure that Scott had ever drunk wine from a bottle before…

from A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway (1936)