Lunaria Coste di Moro Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. A wine more for conversation rather than contemplation!

Lunaria Coste di Moro Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (DOP) 2019, 14% ABV

€19.95 O’Briens Wine

a wine more for conversation rather than contemplation! 

There’s no seeing through the dark ruby red of this Montepulciano from Abruzzo. Red fruit on the nose. On the palate, it is soft and intense, slightly tannic with an excellent dry finish. The producers guide you to serve it between 16 and 18 degrees and pair it with platters of cured meats, grilled and baked meats and first courses with “very structured” sauces.

It is rich, robust and red, and Highly Recommended, a wine more for conversation rather than contemplation! It is made from organic grapes and left to ferment naturally using wild yeasts with natural tartaric stabilisation.

Unusually, the vines are cultivated in huts (extended Abruzzo pergolas). In the huts, on a horizontal wire roof, the vines grows harmoniously and naturally as the leaves take in the wind and sun. The system takes quite a lot of manual labour though.

The producers Bio Cantina Orsogna indicate that “the spontaneous fermentation of wines is the fundamental condition for creating a wine capable of restoring the authentic flavours of a territory”.

Orsogna is based in one of the largest wine production areas in Central and Southern Italy, where grapes and oil have always told an authentic story and where experiences have been handed down for generations.

The co-op was formed in the 1964 by a 35 strong group of small winemakers. In 2020, they produced their first organic biodynamic wines and, in 2018, - were recognised at the World Biodynamic Conference in San Francisco as the largest global company producing Demeter-certified biodynamic grapes.

If you see one of these bottles, you’ll note twine pulled tightly over the cork. There is no capsule as, since 2013, BIO Cantina Orsogna eliminated capsules from their bottles of organic and biodynamic wines by using this twine.

By the way, the Montepulciano grape is often confused with the town of the same name. There is a popular wine known as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and it is made from Sangiovese grapes! Montepulciano, often somewhat “sweeter” than this, is very common on Irish wine lists (not just in the Italian restaurants).

• This post is part of a series on Italian wines made from native grapes and produced by usually small or medium-sized organic wineries. Taking some “guidance” here from the recently published VINO. Mightn’t always net the hat trick but hope to score two from the three each time. I have quite a few lined up but I’m happy to consider any suggestions or help. #OrganicItaly

INTRODUCING BEÁR BIA - A PODCAST CELEBRATING THE UNISON OF IRISH FOOD & DRINK, BROUGHT TO YOU BY DEE LAFFAN & OISÍN DAVIS

press release

 INTRODUCING BEÁR BIA - A PODCAST CELEBRATING THE UNISON OF IRISH FOOD & DRINK, BROUGHT TO YOU BY DEE LAFFAN & OISÍN DAVIS

Few would argue that local foods taste best when enjoyed with local drinks and Ireland is no exception. Pairing our native food and drinks is an integral means to further develop our Irish culinary culture and is also a great way to bring people together. These are the key tenets behind the Beár Bia podcast. Its creators, Dee Laffan and Oisín Davis are on a mission to highlight all the amazing food & drink producers in Ireland and to celebrate them in unison with each other.

It can be accessed on Spotify or wherever you get your podcasts. 

How does it work?

Each episode will have a different focus - whether it be pairings from a particular county, from an event, a bar or restaurant, a specific ingredient or cooking method, or themed around a food or drink brand.

We invite Irish food & drink producers for a round-the-table, fun-filled tasting, and discussion. Brewers chatting with cheesemakers, distillers hanging out with chefs, etc - all of it recorded, filmed & photographed for the podcast.

Our first episode focuses on the garden county as we paired two different Wicklow drinks with two different Wicklow foods. We picked up some amazing Ridgeway wagyu beef, which was cooked and served by Barry Walllace of Dash Burger, and paired it with Wicklow Wolf Brewery's Solstice Tropical Sour. The other pairing featured Ballyhubbock Farm's sheep's milk halloumi cheese alongside a cocktail made with raspberry wine from Wicklow Way Wines and Powerscourt Distillery's Fercullen Falls whiskey.

The first season of Beár Bia will feature 12 episodes and will be broadcast fortnightly.

“Pillowy weisse is really nice........” Lineman Organised Fun Hopfenweisse is Beer of the Week

Lineman Organised Fun Hopfenweisse 5.6% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

“Pillowy weisse is really nice when we slap a lash of hops in there”.

Pillowy for sure and under that white head it has a mid-gold colour. Aromas of fruit, clove and banana are moderate. It is hoppy and full-bodied, with a sweet input from the malt, and overall a smooth and refreshing beer. Quite a treat and a Very Highly Recommended Beer of the Week.

Hopfenweisse literally means “hop wheat”. Lineman’s advice is to serve the beer chilled. It is unpasteurised and unfiltered so may contain sediment, not that I noticed any.

Try pairing with this trio from Malay Kitchen in Cork and Kinsale: the spice-packed Rendang, their amazing Massaman curry paste and the tantalising Pad Thai sauce. Also try Indian and Thai curries. Dark chocolate with chilli if you are really adventurous.

* See the latest Beer of the Week index here

Taste of the Week. Steam Cooked Chicken by the Chicken Inn

Taste of the Week. 

Steam Cooked Chicken fillet by the Chicken Inn

Our lettuce plants didn't get off to a great start this year but now they are flourishing with a second lot rapidly catching up. As a result, salads are regularly on the menu chez moi.

Always on the lookout for some protein to head up the salad plate and hard to better the steamed chicken from Tim Mulcahy and his crew at The Chicken Inn in the English Market. 

This a superb ingredient in many dishes, many local restaurants use it, and I'm always delighted to see it on our own salads. It is our current Taste of the Week and there'll be plenty more occasions to use it as the summer goes on.

Nádúr Deli: Embrace Nature's Gifts in a Place of Grace

Nádúr Deli: Embrace Nature's Gifts in a Place of Grace

Continental

Cork's Douglas Street has a new resident, and it's a little gem! Nádúr Deli, the adorable "baby" of the popular Good Day Deli, has sprouted up in Nano Nagle Place. Forget fancy tablecloths – this spot is all about grabbing a delicious bite in a charming, church-like setting (fitting, considering its past as part of a convent!). With just 9 seats inside, Nádúr Deli is all about intimacy. But fear not! There's plenty of space to soak up the sunshine on the outdoor plaza.

Fresh Philosophy, Familiar Favorites

Just like its older sibling, Nádúr Deli champions local, seasonal ingredients.  Expect to see class goodies from Hegarty's Cheese and Mealagulla Apple Farm and other local suppliers gracing their menu. They are best known for vegetarian and vegan dishes, with a nod to the pescatarians out there too. 

Mornings Made Marvelous

Breakfast is a highlight here, served from 10am to noon. Treat yourself to the Continental, starring the incredible Goatsbridge trout with house labneh, crispy capers (a mini-highlight), and a chorus of pickled goodies. They've got a delightful full veggie option with Hegarty's cheddar instead of the trout.

Alongside their breakfast plates, Nádúr Deli offers a tempting selection of all-day sandwiches. The Mozzarella Focaccia, bursting with Macroom Buffalo mozzarella, pesto, and fresh veggies, is a surefire winner.

Coffee and Companionship

Need a caffeine fix? Nádúr Deli has your back (or should we say cup?) with teas, coffees, and an array of pastries. Whether you're a cinnamon roll fiend or a pistachio white chocolate and blueberry aficionado, they've got something to satisfy your sweet tooth. Plenty of soft drinks are available, including Mealagulla Apple Juice, a favourite of mine!

Sanctuary

Lunchtime Delights

Lunch options (from 12.30pm) are just as enticing, with three vegetarian plates to choose from, like the Potato and Cheese on Soda Bread – a delightful combination of new potatoes, spring onion aioli, and melty goat gouda. Pescatarians, rejoice! The Goatsbridge trout with house labneh and a touch of sweetness from pickled apple is a must-try.

Sweet Endings

No meal is complete without dessert, and Nádúr Deli doesn't disappoint. Their pastries are a sight to behold (and devour!), but if you need a recommendation, the Lemon Meringue Almond Cake is a slice of sunshine. Pair it with a perfectly brewed glass of West Cork Coffee for a sweet ending to your visit.

Grapes to Come

While they are waiting on their wine licence, owners Clare Condon and Kristin Makirere are planning a short curated selection of natural wines, including red, white, and a couple of bubbly options ( no doubt a pet-nat will feature!).

Bonus Bites:

Looking for the WC? No bother, they are a few steps away in Nano Nagle Place.  Here, you'll have access to the spacious and wheelchair-friendly facilities on the ground floor.

So, next time you're in Cork's Douglas Street, skip the chains and head to Nádúr Deli. This petite powerhouse is sure to leave a big impression on your taste buds!

Tezza Corte Majoli Valpolicella: A Fresh, Fruity Organic Red

Tezza Corte Majoli Valpolicella: A Fresh, Fruity Organic Red

Tezza Corte Majoli Valpolicella (DOC) 2021, 12.5% ABV

€18.00 Bubble Brothers.

“we prefer to produce wines to our own principles”

This 2021 Valpolicella from Tezza winery, nestled near Verona, proudly reflects the winemaker's philosophy: "We prefer to produce wines to our own principles." The result? A light and dry organic red with a vibrant personality.

A Feast for the Senses

The wine boasts a beautiful ruby robe that catches the light. On the nose, you'll find enticing aromas of smoky red cherry with a touch of vanilla. The first sip delivers on the promise, offering a burst of fresh, fruity flavours balanced by lively acidity. This is a food-friendly wine, begging to be paired with a delicious meal.

Pairing Perfection

The producers suggest pairing this Valpolicella with primi piatti (think pasta starters), white meats, and cured meats. But the possibilities extend far beyond. Imagine enjoying it alongside charcuterie and salami, red-sauced pasta dishes, or even pizza. Roasted root vegetables and pork dishes would also be fantastic companions. Wine Folly recommends burgers and roast chicken for a more casual pairing. No matter your choice, this versatile wine is sure to complement your meal.

A Blend with History

Tezza's Valpolicella is a classic blend of the three key grapes of the region: Corvina Veronese (60%), Corvinone (20%), and Rondinella (20%). Corvina, with its dark berries and thick skin, forms the backbone of the blend, providing structure and those delightful red cherry notes. Corvinone once thought to be a sub-variety of Corvina but recently identified as distinct through DNA analysis, adds its own touch. Finally, Rondinella rounds out the blend, a common feature in Valpolicella wines.

A Legacy of Quality

The Tezza winery is a family affair, established in 1965 by three brothers. Today, their sons – cousins Flavio, Vanio, and Federico – carry on the tradition. They remain true to their roots, focusing on crafting Valpolicella wines with plenty of tannins for ageing and a dry character, standing in contrast to the sweeter styles that have become more prevalent in the region.

Highly Recommended

Tezza Corte Majoli Valpolicella is a delightful choice for those seeking a fresh, fruit-forward red wine with a touch of Italian charm. Its versatility at the table and commitment to organic practices make it a winner. So, raise a glass and experience a taste of Italy's dedication to quality winemaking!

• This post is part of a series on Italian wines made from native grapes and produced by usually small or medium-sized organic wineries. Taking some “guidance” here from the recently published VINO. Mightn’t always net the hat trick but hope to score two from the three each time. I have quite a few lined up but I’m happy to consider any suggestions or help. #OrganicItaly
• See the expanding list of #OrganicItaly wines here

On the craft trail with Knockboy, Larkin's and Boundary

On the craft trail with Downtime, Larkin's and Boundary

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Knockboy Mountain IPA 5.1% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

East Coast meets West with both pine and fruity aromas.

This Knockboy Mountain Pale Ale is pale and hazy with a soft white head. Pine heads up the moderate aromas, with citrus also featuring. A low bitterness count but the hops still stand out and that pine again emerges on the juicy and refreshing palate. A decent drop indeed and Highly Recommended.

It is brewed by Downtime Brewing (at Third Barrel Brewing ) who tell us the carbon produced in making this beer has been offset by planting native Irish trees. Just wonder if any were planted in Knockboy which is the highest part of the River Lee on the mountains of the Cork / Kerry border.

Geek Bits

The hops are Mosaic, Citra, Simcoe and Cascade. The first three are also used in the double dry hopping at the end.

Malts used are Extra Pale Malt, Wheat and Flaked Oats.

Vermont Yeast is another ingredient.

Downtime was established in 2023.

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Larkin’s Pale Ale 4.5% ABV, 440 ml can Carry Out Wexford

It is a pale ale and pale gold is the colour with a foamy white head and posses of bubbles racing towards the top. Aromas are on the citrus side. The palate has a good backbone from the hops and citrus continues to make an impact.

Bitterness is on the low side in this refreshing easy-drinking beer. Highly Recommended.

Hops: Cascade, Centennial, Mosaic, Citra.

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Boundary I Know The Difference Belgian Pale Ale 4.5% ABV, 440 ml can O’Briens Wine

Very pale gold with a soft white head. Aromas are mild, herbal and slightly spicy. On the palate it is fruity, dry and refreshing. Not very bitter at all. This beer, a Belgian Pale Ale the brewers call it, is not too far away from lagers and pilseners, the kind of beers in which the Saaz hops are regularly used.

There is a minimalist description of the beer on Boundary’s social media. I’m not too sure I would call it Belgian though. 

Pergola Roses Shine in Blarney Castle Gardens

Pergola Roses Shine in Blarney Castle Gardens

Pics June 19th 2024

Sun lover

Picnic time!

Allium

Carnivorous (and below)

Lebanese cedar

Eternal Ascent by Blessing Sanyanga

Red seat

Sitka spruce tree (Picea sitchensis) is the highest tree our estate, 

measuring approximately 45 metres/145 teet in height.

Tenuta Bellafonte Pomontino Montefalco Rosso, an excellent blend of Sangiovese and Sagrantino

Tenuta Bellafonte Pomontino Montefalco Rosso (DOC) 2019, 13% ABV 

RRP: €22.95. Stockists: 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork, Le Caveau online

An excellent blend of Sangiovese and Sagrantino from Umbria.

This Montefalco Rosso from the centre of Italy has a mid-ruby colour. The nose is inviting and elegant with cherry, smaller red fruit and a touch of sweet spice. Elegant also on the palate with a noticeable and immediate impact of the lively acidity. Fine tannins present also and the finish is long and very pleasing.

Very Highly Recommended. 

Pomontino is obtained thanks to carefully vinifying whole berries that ferment spontaneously. The vineyards are about 15 years old. The wine is aged for at least one year in large Slavonian oak casks before refining in bottle for about 6 months. Native yeasts are used and the wine is unfiltered. Production from the 2019 vintage came to 17,600 bottles (ref: label).

This excellent blend of Sangiovese and Sagrantino hails not from Tuscany but from neighbouring Umbria.  Tenuta Bellafonte is located in the heart of the most unspoilt part, not far from Bevagna, near the beautiful village of Torre del Colle, surrounded by rolling hills where woodlands give way to orderly vineyards and olive trees. The South-Eastern exposure, the mix of clay, marl and rocky soils are ideal for producing quality wine.

Owner Peter Heilbron left the boardrooms of the corporate world in 2007 to go into wine with his wife Sabina. Heilbron shuns chemical fertilisers, herbicides and insecticides, using seaweed and plant extracts as a kind of vine homoeopathy. He hasn't pursued organic certification though.

Sangiovese has long been grown here but has always had a blending partner. This custom led to today's production specification rules: other grapes can be added, in addition to Sangiovese including Sagrantino (maximum 20%). Within that, it is entirely up to the winemaker and dictated only by the style he seeks from his wine.

The vast majority of Sangiovese is grown in Italy. But it has many names here including Rosso di Montalcino, Carmignano, Morellino di Scansano, Rosso Conero, Torgiano Rosso and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. I promised you’d meet some of them in this series and our Montefalco Ross is one of them!

Sangiovese has high acidity and as a result, matches well with “all manner of spicy foods”, according to Wine Folly who concludes “it will not get lost when paired with tomato sauce.” Serve at 16° - 18°C.

• This post is part of a series on Italian wines made from native grapes and produced by usually small or medium-sized organic wineries. Taking some “guidance” here from the recently published VINO. Mightn’t always net the hat trick but hope to score two from the three each time. I have quite a few lined up but I’m happy to consider any suggestions or help. #OrganicItaly

On the Craft Trail with Hopfully, Eight Degrees, Kildare Brewing and Chouffe

On the Craft Trail with Hopfully, Eight Degrees, Kildare Brewing and Chouffe.

Hopfully Eyecatcher Session Pale Ale, 4.8% ABV, 440 ml can 

Bradleys

Hopfully welcome a new brewer and a new beer.

Pale orange, close to lemon, is the colour of this session ale by Hopfully. It is also hazy as might expect from a New England style. Juicy stuff on the palate where exotic fruits lead the way before a dry and slightly tart finish. Easy drinking and highly recommended.

Hopfully welcome the new beer: “Our newest addition to the core range, Eyecatcher, tastes like summer. This New England Session Pale Ale has an approachable 4.8% ABV, a hazy body, high drinkability, and loads of tropical fruit juiciness. Expect notes of mango and pineapple, a hint of herbal flavour, and a dry, lightly bitter finish.”

They’ve also welcomed Oliver McAdam a new senior brewer to their brewery in Waterford. 

Oliver is from Liverpool but his brewing journey began over 10 years ago while living in Brazil. It was in 2019 when he took the plunge to take on brewing as a full-time profession.

"I love all things beer, from big hazy pales, thicccc impy stouts, to crushable crispy bois (lagers). But I do hold a special passion for big Belgian styles and Saisons, so keep an eye out for some exciting things coming out in a near future. Excited for what we have in stall at Hopfully and to be part of Ireland's ever growing craft beer scene.”

Geeky Bits:

Style: Session Pale Ale

Hops: Azacca, Mosaic and Ekuanot

Malts: IPA Malt, Pale Malt, Vienna, wheat and oats.

Artwork: Pipe and Pallet

Brewed: Waterford

ABC: 4.8%

#hopfullybrewing

Eight Degrees The Crux Double IPA 7.7% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

Embrace The Crux and the Pacific hops. "A little beauty".

Our double IPA from a restored Eight Degrees has a golden/amber colour, slightly hazy, and a soft white head. Citrus aromas from the Pacific hops are a welcome variation on the familiar all-American theme. Lots of fruit, love that mango hit and the citrus, grapefruit and lime wake you up, catch your attention and you say to yourself “you little beauty”. As with most little beauties, don’t rush this one with its 7.7% punch in amongst all that citrus from the Pacific fields.

Now my own crux looms. Decisions. Decisions. Will I have another? What crux? The crux only arises if you have no Crux. Very Highly Recommended.

The hops used are Amarillo and Motueka. The first, from Washington state, is known for its citrus flavours and aromas and Eight Degrees applied it in the kettle. For the dry-hop, they turned to Motueka, from New Zealand with its distinctive fresh crushed citrus, its lively lemon and lime tones with background hints of tropical fruit. The Mitchelstown crew got the best from both in Crux.

The brewery is happy to have this one out in the world and “drinking very nicely” indeed: “Lots of ripe stone fruit, sweet mango and a deliciously bitter twist of grapefruit and lime coming through towards the end.”

Food Matches: The Crux Double IPA plays well with smoke, bringing lots of tropical fruit to the party. Big and bold, these flavours will complement the rich flavours of smoked beef brisket or smoked pulled barbecued jackfruit for a summer’s day lunch in the sunshine. Use the grapefruit and lime bitterness to contrast with a great Irish farmhouse blue cheese: we’re unashamed fans of our local Cashel Blue, the older and funkier the better. For something a little more subtle, pair the beer with a crème brûlée – perhaps one flavoured with orange and cardamom – taking full advantage of those boozy notes to cut through the creamy dessert.

#TheCruxDoubleIPA

Kildare Brewing Lager 4.3% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

"the pinnacle of our brewing expertise"

Don’t you just love it when a beer behaves as it should? Clean golden colour, bubbles streaming incessantly towards the soft white top. And those malty hints in the aromas. Malt also on the palate with a modest hint of sweetness and a refreshing finish at the end. We are talking lager here and the obliging beer in question is produced by Kildare Brewing.

The young Kildare brewery is delighted with this lager, calling it “the pinnacle of our brewing expertise”.  It is indeed clean, crisp, and simple. No surprise that it is their most popular beer. A light malt flavour and Noble German hops combine well here. It is filtered to perfection and is lager at its most refreshing. Try with chicken, pork and salads. Highly Recommended.

Or with a meal at the family-friendly gastropub, Lock 13, that overlooks the charming Grand Canal. In Poland, the Flanagans spotted quite a few microbreweries attached to small pubs. 

They began to dream and, for Barry (the Kildare brewer) and Ola Flanagan, it became a reality in 2017, when they started Kildare’s first brewpub. Here they produce a range of craft beers using locally sourced roasted barley and malt. Barry is a qualified beer sommelier and expertly pairs their craft beers with the restaurant dishes.

They hold Brewery Tours every Saturday and Sunday so “do come check out behind the scenes by booking a day tour here.  

Chouffe Cherry 8.00% ABV, 330 ml bottle, No 21

Had been keeping my Cherry Chouffe for a real fine day and that arrived at the weekend, along with a box of Wexford strawberries. And, since Couffe recommended “almonds, raspberries, cherries and strawberries” to pair with the beer, you know what happened in the back garden.

This Cheery beer is fruity, rounded and strong and a Belgian classic. It is, of course, quite strong, so be sure and sip. Fruity notes (mostly cherry!) in the aromas. It is soft on the palate with cherry flavours of course and has a satisfying finish with a tart streak.

I enjoyed the beer (and the strawberries) and I always enjoy visiting the Chouffe website - they enjoy a laugh. Check it out yourself here