Restaurant Reviews. Food. Markets. Wine. Beer. Cider. Whiskey. Gin. Producers. . Always on the look-out for tasty food and drink from quality producers! Buy local, fresh and fair. The more we pull together, the further we will go. Contact: cork.billy@gmail.com Follow on Twitter: @corkbilly Facebook: Billy Lyons
Sunday, September 15, 2013
Amuse Bouche
I love you from the bottom of my liver.
-- François Rabelais (c. 1494 – 9 April 1553). Rabelais is considered one of the great writers of world literature and among the creators of modern European writing. His best known work is Gargantua.
Midleton Food Festival
Festival Faces |
Enjoyed my stroll in the sun
down Midleton’s Main Street yesterday as once again the Anuual Midleton Food
Festival drew a large crowd, and the sun! All the stalls are now on one side of
the street and that makes it easier for the punters, especially those with
push-chairs. But, in any case, no one is in a rush; it is all easy and relaxed.
Marco's |
Lebanese food |
Great to see Harrington Bakers of Youghal coming up with some old favourites on
their stand, including a terrific Brack with lots of fruit. Sorry I bought the
small one as that had more or less vanished by Saturday night, should have went
for the large size. Must try their Tiger Loaf sometime.
TheTiger Loaf |
There were at least three
ice-cream stalls on the stretch and I’m sure they all enjoyed a good day. I certainly
enjoyed my cone of Caramel and Fudge from Baldwin’s and indeed it was a delight
to meet up and have a short chat with farmer Tom himself.
Made a few more calls as well
but only had a couple of hours to spare there. Next year, I’ll just have to book
lunch in one of the many good spots in the town and make a day of it.
Checking the menu! |
Friday, September 13, 2013
Telmo sees future of Spanish Wine in the past
Telmo sees future of Spanish Wine in the past
Magnificent Seven |
Wine lover Telmo Rodriguez, he doesn’t particular like being called a wine-maker, declared in Ballymaloe last evening that wine in Spain “had been in the wrong hands, now it is starting to be in the right hands. I am between a boring generation and an exciting generation”.
To find the brighter future, Telmo went back to the past. He could have had comfortably slotted into the family winery Remelluri but, after an intensive wine education in France, he eventually headed off on his own.
And to the most unlikely places. Barren hillsides where vineyards had been abandoned. Sometimes a few survived with practices dating back five hundred years, including “beautiful bush vines”.
“I support the bush vines,” he said and, pointing to the wines he was showing, “I am proud that none of these were on trellis. Small bush produce rich concentrated wine. And the bush protects the grapes from the hot sun. Grapes on trellis are like a sun-burned Irishman in Marbella.”
To find the brighter future, Telmo went back to the past. He could have had comfortably slotted into the family winery Remelluri but, after an intensive wine education in France, he eventually headed off on his own.
And to the most unlikely places. Barren hillsides where vineyards had been abandoned. Sometimes a few survived with practices dating back five hundred years, including “beautiful bush vines”.
“I support the bush vines,” he said and, pointing to the wines he was showing, “I am proud that none of these were on trellis. Small bush produce rich concentrated wine. And the bush protects the grapes from the hot sun. Grapes on trellis are like a sun-burned Irishman in Marbella.”
He spoke fondly of the family vineyards at Remelluri which have a history dating back hundreds and hundreds of years – in the 16th century the monks were already producing wine there.
Telmo remembers the mules coming in and working in the vineyards and also when his father bought the first tractor. After France, Telmo worked there for a while before moving out from what was considered the first Bordeaux style chateau in Rioja.
But now he is back. And has been for some years. The big estate, which had always tended that way, is now “absolutely organic, with plenty of grass and flowers, and we are always working to be more pure, more radical. The sense of history and place is very important to me.”
Yours truly and Telmo (right) |
He showed seven wines in all and each had a story. Perhaps the strangest
was that of his Mountain wine, the Malaga Molino Real, a sweet wine. This was a
dream he pursued, having heard references to it via the unlikely pairing of
Shakespeare and Hugh Johnson.
But it had disappeared and off he went to Malaga and began to search for
the high altitude old vineyards and, as is his habit, talked a lot to the old
people and in particular to the old women drying grapes by hand and they told
him that “every single grape was massaged by hand” in the old days.
He didn’t go that far but, in 1998, settled on an area and with advice from
Château Y’Quem, started production. He secured a plot and then planted it with Moscatel.
It took three or four years. He finally
got it right and the exquisite result was in our glasses last night. “Never did
any business with this wine but I’m proud of it.”
Reckon Telmo has quite a lot to be proud of. And, with a record of longevity
in the family, he has quite a future ahead of him and is sure to keep Spanish
wine-makers on their toes, to all our benefit.
WHITES
GALICIA:
Albariño de Fefiñanes 2012
MALAGA:
Mountain blanco 2011
REDS
GALICIA:
As Caborcas 2010
CEBREROS:
Pegaso granito 2008
RIOJA:
R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja Reserva 2001
Remelluri Gran Reserva 2005
Lanzaga 2008
SWEET WHITE
MALAGA:
Molino Real
During the tasting, we had some lovely Spanish nibbles provided by
Sylvia and Olga of La Cocina who can see at local Farmers Markets, including Douglas
(Saturday) and Blackrock (Sunday).
White Gems from NW Spain
White Gems from NW Spain
Vina Tondonia Blanco
1996 Reserva, Rioja Alta, 12.5%
When I first noticed this 100 per cent Viura, with a rich honey colour, on the shelf in Tondonia in Haro, I thought “this has to be a dessert wine”. I said as much but was quickly corrected: “All these whites are dry,” said the lady in the bodega, who had learned her English in Dublin.
So we had a taste and yes it is dry. And so much more! There are gorgeous floral blossoms on the nose. On the palate, there is a soft explosion of beautiful exotic flavours but, while rich, the aged wine is well crafted and well balanced, all leading to a very pleasing, lingering dry finish. Indeed, there are constant reminders of sherry. This is surely something different and very highly recommended.
I had accidentally come to the right place for old whites! “To talk in our bodega of white wines being exclusively young and uncomplicated, would be asking for trouble. We have never been averse to ageing white wines in oak for as long as reds, and the result is much more surprising than might be expected.”
“ When this type of wine has spent a long time in contact with oak, the oaky tastes and aromas are overly noticeable and even unbalanced. Nevertheless, when left for a few more years in bottles, the rough edges of oak become sufficiently polished and balanced to create a seductive bouquet of spice, bitter almonds, vanilla and walnut, trademarks of the majestic and opulent Viña Tondonia whites.”
Tondonia or, to give it its full title, Bodegas Lopez de Heredia/Tondonia, is run by two sisters who proudly protect the reputation and practices (sometimes they use material from a previous year to “correct” an unsatisfactory vintage) of this long standing family firm.
Whatever they do, they do it well. Just to finish with a quote from The Finest Wines of Rioja and Northwest Spain: “..the reason Tondonia deserves a position of prominence on the Rioja podium is the sheer quality and seductiveness of its wines, across virtually the entire portfolio”.
2011 Bodegas Rafael
Palacios Valdeorras As Sortes Val do Bibei, 13.5%, Ballymaloe Wines at BT.
Jancis is not the only one to approve. The authors of The Finest Wines of Rioja and Northwest Spain (worth getting your hands on a copy) are also major fans of this Godello and the results that Palacios has achieved.”This is one of the finest whites, not only in Valdeorras or Galicia, but in the whole of Spain.”
High praise indeed, so there is hardly much need of my tuppence worth which just confirms that it is a very good wine indeed and well worth a trek into Brown Thomas in Patrick Street.
Palacios, just like Thursday’s Ballymaloe visitor Telmo Rodriguez, seeks out what look like poor hillside terroirs from which he extracts gems like this one. Indeed, the name As Sortes has to do with small plots, the result of inheritance being drawn by lot, often out of a hat, and called sorte in Galician.
Martin Codax Albariño
2011, Rias Baixas, 12.5%, €15.85 Karwig Wines
Martin Codax was a famous troubadour in Galicia in the 13th century. When 270 wine makers of the region banded together in 1986, they took the name as a symbol of the region and of its culture. Thanks to the local winemakers and in particular to the local grape Albariño, Martin is now the best travelled of all Galician troubadours.
Hope this Albariño keeps travelling in this direction. Albariño is the main grape of the appellation and now one of the best known of Galicia. Its bunches and berries are small, allowing for an early ripening. It is a sweet and lingering grape, with high levels of sugar and acidity which give the wines an amazing freshness. Traditionally cultivated in “emparrado”, it is one of the main symbols of Galicia.
This 2011 is bright and clean, full of flavours and complex aromas, a little tingling on the palate and a good dry finish, a very good example of the Albariño, pretty much an unknown grape until that coming together in 1986 when it began to emerge as a varietal, both locally and internationally.
Thursday, September 12, 2013
Punters line-up at Pam's Perry Street Cafe
Perry Street Market Cafe
Good news gets around Cork
City quickly if the lunch-time line of customers at the recently opened Perry
Street Market Cafe is anything to go by. But Chef Pam Kelly and her team are well
prepared for the rush and the line moves quickly and soon you are at your table
with your food.
And there is much to choose
from. You’ll see the big daily board as you enter the light airy and spacious
place and, as you progress up the line, you’ll be further tempted by the well
presented food in the display cabinets. And, if you just want a sandwich, well
they have a big list of those as well. And they look massive and tempting.
But we were in for a big
lunch and boy did we get it and what made it even more satisfying was the fact
that the local input is huge here. Names like Ummera, O’Connell’s Fish, Jack
McCarthy, G’s Jams and so on feature either on the menu or in the food shop or
in both!
I do like my chowder so I
picked the O’Connell Seafood Chowder, chock full of chunky bits of fish enhanced
by a lovely creamy soup and a gorgeous brown bread. CL was also delighted with
her starter: the Creamy Celeriac Soup with Crispy Sage.
She changed her mind in the
queue and picked the Quiche for here mains once she saw that it was packed with that fabulous
Ummera Smoked Chicken with lots of other good things. It was a great choice.
Not that I was disappointed with mine. On the contrary, I was delighted with
the Fillet Beef Stroganoff and red rice. The beef was absolutely top notch and
besides I also got a brilliant side-salad (that wasn't listed on the board).
Prices are pretty good here,
€12.95 for the Stroganoff, €12.50 for the quiche. Service is friendly and excellent.
They’ll help you find a seat and indeed it all works very well indeed.
There is a lot of space in the
former furniture store and there are a few pop-up shops around the margins (including
a Best of Buds outlet) and more to come. Perry Street may be a strange name to
many but it’s just at the back of the Savoy so is really city centre. The location
is not a problem as the numbers of customers there for lunch on Tuesday
underlined.
Taste of the Week
Taste of the Week
A magnificent combination of flavours and textures. Available, with much more, at the Bee Sensations stall at Doneraile Farmers Market. Blas na hEireann update on Bee Sensations July 2015 here |
Tuesday, September 10, 2013
French Holiday Prices August-September 2013
French Prices August-September 2013
(based on recent Loire Valley holiday)
(based on recent Loire Valley holiday)
Shows are often included in admission prices to chateaus. |
If you’ve ever driven in France
you’ll know the best place to get petrol is at the larger supermarkets. This
year, we got a fill in a Leclerc for 1.55 per litre while a regular garage up
the road was charging 1.70. Another advantage of the supermarket set-up is that
you put in your credit card and enter your pin and that allows you to fill up;
once full, just drive off, no delays.
You may spend as much or as
little as you like on eating out. A three course meal in a good quality regular
restaurant costs about 23 euro but you will find an evening menu du jour there
(with little choice) for 15 euro. If you move up in class, expect to pay
between 27 and 30 euro for an excellent meal that may well include a cheese
course.
Lunch menus can also vary
quite a bit. In the busy tourist town of Azay Le Rideau, at the Creperie du
Roy, we paid 21.10 for an excellent meal for two that included one glass of
wine. At Sunday lunch, in a small village, two main courses, two coffees and a
half bottle of wine came to 27 euro.
We got a lovely two course lunch in Cafe au Coin in Saumur for €12.50 each. One day, in Vendome, we needed a snack and got it at a sandwich takeaway (a packed sandwich, a drink eg Coke or Orangina, and a big cookie) and the cost was less than four euro each.
We got a lovely two course lunch in Cafe au Coin in Saumur for €12.50 each. One day, in Vendome, we needed a snack and got it at a sandwich takeaway (a packed sandwich, a drink eg Coke or Orangina, and a big cookie) and the cost was less than four euro each.
Admission charges, especially
if you have a family in tow, can be quite expensive but are generally worth it.
Even the French are complaining and in some cases you should watch out for
combination tickets or other discounts if visiting more than one attraction in an area.
Here are a few examples,
without discount. The most expensive we came across was at the Chateau Close
Luce and Park in Amboise which is dedicated to Leonardo Da Vinci. Normal entry
fee is €13.50 but an extra fee to see a special enclosed exhibition on the great
man brought the total to €18.50. It is an amazing place and I thought it was worth it!
Amuse Bouche
When he was expecting us, he often prepared our favourite
meal, melocheya – a kind of specially prepared Egyptian green – with
baby pigeons, which he would serve on his table after having spread newspapers
instead of a tablecloth on his bare table. We ate with aluminium cutlery, and
we ripped the pigeons apart with our hands. The melocheya with the rice was
worth the trip.
From The Lost Gospel by Herbert Krosney.
Monday, September 9, 2013
Great Flavours from Traditional Portuguese Grapes
Great Flavours from Traditional Portuguese Grapes
Corgo da Regua, Douro Valley Portugal 2012, by Quinta do Judeu, 14%, RRP
€12.99, Stockists
Four traditional Portuguese grape
varietals are used to make this excellent red in the Douro Valley by Quinta do Judeu: Tinta Roriz 35%, Tinta Barroca (35%), Touriga Franca
(20%) and Touriga Nacional (10%). In another bow to tradition, they are foot
trodden in granite lagares (usually with dimensions of about 4 x 4 m with a
depth of about 1 m).
This is quite a deep red wine with
a pleasant nose of dark fruits and hints of spice. The fruits follow
through on the palate in a supple flow of concentrated flavours but with an
excellent balance, and a long dry finish.
Earlier inhabitants credited the
River Corgo with powers of speech. This wine is not shy and will match your
robust red meats and mature cheese. Might be a good idea to grab a bottle or
two for the upcoming game season. Highly Recommended!
Wines of the Clare Valley at The Hayfield
It’s a long way from Clare to here
– wines of the Clare Valley
with John McDonnell at Hayfield Manor Hotel
Next up in the WineGeese series is a wonderful tasting with John McDonnell.
John is one of the legends of the Irish wine scene and has many years of experience in the wine trade, especially in relation to the wines of Australia.
John will talk about winemaking and winemakers in the Clare Valley in Australia and will give a guided tasting of six wines from this beautiful part of the world. John has a wonderful, engaging presentation style and is deeply passionate and knowledgeable about Australian wine so it promises to be a memorable tasting.
A super tasting deserves a super location and where better than the beautiful surroundings of Hayfield Manor.
Booking in advance is highly recommended as this event is expected to sell out very quickly.
Date : Wednesday 18th September 7pm
Venue : Hayfield Manor – Cost €15
Bookings : Contact Michelle Donovan. Events Manager.
Hayfield Manor. Phone (021) 484 5900
Sunday, September 8, 2013
Free Lunch for Visitors to A Taste of West Cork Food Festival!
Free Lunch for Visitors to A Taste of West Cork Food Festival!
As part of the Gathering initiative and to welcome international and local visitors, the popular Taste of West Cork Food Festival 2013 (now in its 10th year) is offering guests a delicious West Cork lunch – absolutely free! From the 6th-15th September participating restaurants in Skibbereen, Baltimore, Glandore, Union Hall, Leap and Casteltownshend will each showcase a specific product from West Cork; a nationally recognised region with a proud reputation for producing some of the best artisan food in Ireland. Discerning gourmands can, with proof of travel or accommodation, obtain vouchers for their free lunch (sponsored by Field’s Supervalu) from the Festival Box Office.
Cornstore ‘September Mussel Festival’ Returns
Cornstore ‘September Mussel Festival’ Returns
The Cornstore Group are getting set to serve a myriad of mussel dishes this September as their annual Mussel Festival returns for its third consecutive year. This autumn celebration of local mussels and seasonal flavours will see fresh Atlantic Mussels, sourced locally from Jamie O’Dwyer in Haven Shellfish, Kinsale, and Sea Lyons in Carrigaholt, Co Clare, served in over 10 different styles, take centre stage across the group’s menus.
Restaurant
goers can look forward to daily specials such as Mussels with carrot &
orange with curry butter and coriander, Mussels with sake & pickled
seaweed, or the popular Chorizo with tomato, chickpea and basil dish, along
with current menu favourites such as the The Full Irish - Mussels with craft
cider, Jameson whiskey, black pudding and chive cream.
‘Our
September Mussel Festival has proven to be one of the tastiest and most popular
times of the year with our customers,’ said restaurateur Padraic Frawley.
‘We’ve got an array of dishes with something to please all palettes, and if
you’re not a mussels fan our current menu options will also be available.’
Specialising
in seafood and dry-aged steak, the group’s restaurants are located in both Cork
and Limerick. Just last month they launched their Summer Seafood and Infused
Cocktail Collection, which has seen both restaurants become a pilgrim
destination for many seafood and cocktail lovers.
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