I Like my Kerpen Rieslings

I Like my Kerpen Rieslings

For the past few years, I have been enjoying the Rieslings produced by the Kerpen Winery  on the banks of the Mosel. Bought another couple recently in Joe Karwig’s in Carrigaline and once again the pleasure was all mine.

Kerpen Classic Riesling 2006 (Mosel), €12.92 Karwig Wines 

Bright gold in the glass. Just love the great burst of flavour that runs right through before finishing long and dry. Elegant and with good weight, really well balanced. Good with fish, salads or on its own. Highly recommended.

Gutsabfullung is a word you’ll see on many German wine bottles. It means estate bottled.

Kerpen Riesling 2010 (Blauschiefer, Bernkastel, Mosel), €13.55, Karwig Wines 

This estate bottled Riesling is perhaps my favourite of the two. It is bright with straw green colours and modestly aromatic. Ripe fruits reach all areas before a long dry finish. Luscious apple-ly fruits yet really well balanced and with a great texture. Good with fish with light sauces or as a thirst quencher. Highly recommended.

Bereich Bernkastel is one of six wine districts in the wine region of Mosel. The vineyards are on the slopes of the River Mosel, a tributary of the Rhine.

Magic at Myrtleville: Bunnyconnellan’s

Magic at Myrtleville: Bunnyconnellan’s

Bream special

Great to walk in out of the February cold to a top class warming lunch in Myrtleville’s Bunnyconnellan’s. Bunny’s, long renowned for its stupendous ocean and coastal views, is now making waves because of its marvellous food, served up in a friendly and efficient way in the well appointed room.

For all that, I was really surprised to see the large numbers that turned up for lunch last Friday. Pleasantly surprised too at the large choice on the menu, something for everyone but especially for the fish lovers among you.

Reckon, I’m one at this stage. Studied the menu and the specials board, a mini one that they bring around to your table. As it turned out, we took the starters from the regular menu, the mains from the specials.

My opener was the Seafood Cake (Cod, salmon & potato cake with sweet chilli mayo). Very very tasty indeed, fully deserving of the title Fish Cake – many are just glorified Potato Cakes, but not here. The salad was fresh and crisp and the mayo spot-on.

Poached pear 

For all that, I was casting envious eyes across the table at CL’s starter: the Poached Pear Salad (dressed leaves with blue cheese, walnuts & poached pears). What a smashing combination, really well balanced, as I found when I was offered a smidgeon.

Ready now for the main event: Grilled Bream on Fennel with a Chorizo cream sauce. A really lovely piece of fish, well cooked and fresh for sure. And that sauce was terrific, sharp and sweet at the same time, and went so well with the bream. And the fennel, cooked two ways, was another top notch accompaniment.

Quality fish was also the main ingredient, well it would be, of CL’s main dish:  The Fish Pie, with salmon and white fish and a well made topping. Nice liquid too, so nice that a spoon was requested!

All the while, we were enjoying our wines. I had a White Rioja (El Coto), aromatic and fruity and a tarty finish, ideal with the fish, while CL sipped her Chilean Sauvignon Blanc (Torreon de Paredes) with typical New World characteristics, each at six euro per glass. The list here is short but good and there is a full bar service.

Orange and almond tart.

Orange and Almond Tart caught the eye on the Dessert Board and just one was ordered. Served with cream and a great tasting ice-cream, it was out of this world, the fruit beautifully incorporated into the well baked (rather large!) tart. Wow, what a finale.

Well not quite. For me, the last act of this gorgeous meal was a tall glass of Earl Grey and the last act of the visit was a stroll around the terrace to take in the fantastic views and then we left with a promise to ourselves to come back on a sunny day!

Amuse Bouche

Accompanying them,.... Johnnie Mae didn’t seem to mind the degradation....  With a shudder, Otis tells of the time she (Johnnie Mae) couldn’t wait in line to use the ladies room.... She grabbed an empty can from the kitchen shelf, went backstage, and relieved herself in the can, then simply put it back on the shelf. From the stage a little later, he (Otis) saw the cook, thinking it was a can of cooking oil, take it and pour what was in it into a skillet of frying chicken. “We were paid with a free meal that night,” he recalls, “but for some reason we weren’t hungry.”
From Ain’t Too Proud to Beg (The Temptations) by Mark Robowsky.

Bonne Chance, Jean Smullen!

Jean Smullen on short list for IWSC award

Jean Smullen is one of five international wine journalists to be shortlisted for the IWSC Wine Communicator of the Year 2013 award.  The award is given to the individual who the industry panel decides has contributed the most to consumer communication about wine or spirits.   Previous winners include Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson MW, Matthew Jukes Tim Atkins MW and Oz Clarke.

In Ireland Jean Smullen proffers her expertise through organising various wine events, shows and tastings,  through her performances in radio and TV shows: Newstalk’s Movies & Booze, RTE Afternoon Show, in the printed media: Sunday World, Prudence, Retail News and through the new media channels, not least with her Wine Diary... http://www.jeansmullen.com/

Jean is a ubiquitous presence in the Irish and International Wine Trade, having started her wine career more than 20 years ago in the Wine Development Board.   She excels in communication disciplines spanning all aspects of Marketing, PR and Journalism.  This nomination is a very fitting accolade for one who has, and continues, to dispense her unstinting energy promoting knowledge and understanding of the wines of world to an ever increasing audience of wine consumers, both at home and on the world stage, as you can see from the nominees’ shortlist below, she is in very good company:

IWSC Communicator of the Year 2013 Shortlist:
Eric Asimov - Wine critic New York Times (USA)
Dave Broom - Award-winning author and whisky expert (UK)
Arto Koskelo - Writer, presenter, director (Finland)
Jean Smullen - Wine journalist, broadcaster and consultant (Ireland)
Jan Petersen - Wine journalist, broadcaster, lecturer and photographer (Sweden)
Richard Paterson - Whyte & Mackay Partner (Scotland)

The winner will be announced on 6th April 2013, at Vinitaly in Verona.

I am sure that many will want to join in wishing Jean all the best for 6th April and she may be contacted at: jean@jeansmullen.com

Riesling? In a blend? Mais oui!

Hugel Gentil 2011, Alsace (France), 

12.5%, €13.99 Bradley’s Off Licence.

“Gentil is an old Alsace term, revived by the Hugel family, winemakers here since 1639. It is a blend of noble grapes. It is gently dry, round and pleasingly aromatic. It is an ideal introduction to Alsace wines.”

That is what it says on the back label and I found it pretty accurate. Colour is light green, pale yellow, very bright. And it is aromatic, mainly floral. On the palate, it is fruity, not overly so. It is fresh and fleshy. Dry, gently so, as they say. Highly recommended.

The grapes are hand harvested and the blend is Gewürztraminer (11%), Pinot Gris (18), Riesling (16), Muscat (7), Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc (48).

The closure is DIAM and you may read about this method here.

Bradley’s also stock the Hugel 2011 Riesling, a great drink methinks.

Food and Drink Spotting

Food and Drink Spotting

Folláin No Added Sugar Jams
Couldn’t have been better timed by the folks at Folláin. A couple of samples of their new No Added Sugar Range of jams arrived in the post this morning, just as my previous marmalade reached the end of the jar. Luckily, they had included Marmalade and that pot got an immediate test! And passed, with flying colours.

Like the jams in the range, the marmalade has no sugar added. Only the natural sweetness of concentrated grape juice is used. This natural grape juice sweetness produces a delicious fresh taste! And that trademark tang of the orange is still there. And the blackcurrant is brilliant also, a terrific balance of tasty fruit and flavour

The No Added Sugar range includes that Orange Marmalade and the following jams: Blackcurrant, Blackberry, Raspberry, Strawberry, Rhubarb & Vanilla and Apricot. Must get my hands on the Blackberry (my favourite of the regular range) and also on the Apricot which has won the Gold Medal at the UK Great Taste Awards!

Health & Nutrition: When it comes to eating healthy, Folláin No Added Sugar and Salt range of preserves and relishes are very convenient for those wishing to reduce the salt and sugar content of their diet. They are also recommended for diabetics wishing to use a no added sugar jam or marmalade. The Folláin No Added Sugar/Salt Range are 100% natural, made from fresh fruit prepared meticulously by hand and contain no added sugar, no artificial colours or preservatives and are sweetened naturally with grape juice. They are also gluten free.

“15 grams of Folláin No Added Sugar jam or marmalade only contains approximately 25 kcal and 5 grams of carbohydrate. Compare this with a normal jam or marmalade where a similar amount (15 grams) contains approximately 40kcal and 10 grams of carbohydrate.”

For lots of info on Folláin Preserves (they also do some great relishes), and more info from their consultant nutritionist Niamh O’Connor, check out their website here . They also have a lively Facebook page with lots of recipes (just in case you thought jam was something you just spread on bread) and the link is https://www.facebook.com/FollainIrishPreserves?fref=ts


Celebration Stout

I am constantly trying to find an ale that I can really call my own but, almost effortlessly, I keep finding great stouts. The latest is the Porterhouse Celebration Stout (Imperial Irish Stout), available in bottle (33cl) in Bradley’s. North Main Street, Cork.

This is just the job. It comes with a lasting creamy head with a smooth flavoursome body and quite a dry finish. What’s not to like? Well, maybe a bigger bottle. Then again, it is 7% abv.

Treyvaud's Restaurant

Treyvauds is located in Killarney Co Kerry and one of Munster's leading restaurant. Paul Treyvaud has set up their own video channel. “We like to show you how to cook amazing food but also how to make it fun. Join us and please subscribe to ... http://www.youtube.com/user/branson47?feature&view


Killavullen Farmers' Market (via Facebook)

Next Farmers Market is this coming Saturday, March 2, at 10.30am. “We're under cover so don't let the threat of wet weather stop you from coming out!! We would love to see you.”


IKEA Meatballs (from Australia) http://www.foodspotting.com/reviews/3191950


Bia Sásta via Facebook

A garden workshop is coming up @ The Cottage (headquarter of Bia Sásta) on 23rd March. Learn how to grow your own vegetables, the easy way. Tips & tricks from a pro - Kitty Scully. Email biasasta@hotmail.com for further details https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bia-S%C3%A1sta/251338791605913

Baltimore’s Saddleback Pig Company

Baltimore’s Saddleback Pig Company

Got a pleasant surprise on a recent trip to the Bandon Farmers Market when I came across the Saddleback Pig Company from Baltimore. Stopped to have a look at the joints, the rashers and the sausages and soon had a hot piece of sausage in my hand as a sample. Gorgeous stuff, full of great flavours and a lovely supple texture, real meat.

Got a pack of the sausages, a new mix: gluten free sausages 100% pork,  cracked black pepper, cumin, oregano, sweet smoked paprika and garlic.  Very tasty indeed and they sold out last Saturday! So get to Bandon early this Saturday or maybe Clon on the Friday.

Had a chat with Nathan Hall who is very proud of his small family run farm at Rath Hill on Baltimore: “We are a small family run farm situated specialising in the breeding and rearing of rare breed Saddleback pigs. Though only a small business we concentrate on the welfare of all our pigs which are reared and run outside where they are free to root and forage. Our pigs are raised on a diet of mainly vegetables and rolled barley which are chemical free and do not contain any growth enhancers allowing the pigs to mature over a longer period of time giving the meat a fuller flavour.”

Their Dry cured bacon is naturally smoked or unsmoked in a cure made up of sea salt, raw cane sugar and a mixture of herbs and spices. Hams are produced in a brine of white wine, rosemary, bay, thyme, pepper and juniper. All cuts of pork are available fresh or frozen. And they certainly looked great on the stall in Bandon.

You can find them at Clonakilty Farmers Market every Friday and in Bandon Farmers Market every Saturday. Find out much more about them on their Facebook page.


Location: Rath Hill, Baltimore Co. Cork.
Phone 086 2633219.
Email saddlebackpigcompany@gmail.com

The Ring Of Cork

Secad Event To Highlight ‘Ring Of Cork’ Brand

Branding Experts to discuss the value of “Ring of Cork” brand.

Cobh, Co. Cork

Leading brand champions will convene to discuss the importance of the Ring of Cork brand for the Region at an event organised by the South and East Cork Area Development company (SECAD) on Monday, 4 March 2013 at 7:30pm in the Radisson Blu Hotel in Little Island.

The aim of the event, which is open to all and free to attend, is to promote the opportunity of extending the Ring of Cork brand to include; tourism, hospitality, adventure, food and craft businesses in the Region.

“We launched the first phase of the Ring of Cork brand last year with good success”, explains Ryan Howard, CEO SECAD.  “The focus of that initial phase was the tourism and hospitality sector, and now we are looking to push the brand out to the next level and incorporate the food and craft industry along with tourism.  We feel branding the South and East Cork area of Cork can add real value and attract more business and more trade for our Region.  We are extending an open invitation for any business in the Region to attend this important event to understand the appetite for this branding exercise, which should ultimately have a very positive impact on the Region”.

The impressive line-up of speakers at the event promises to provide real food for thought in relation to branding the Region.  Cormac Fitzgerald of The Blue Haven Collection will address the event about his experience of developing a food business and the benefits of being part of a regional branding initiative – West Cork’s Fuchsia brand.

Leading retail brand, the Kilkenny Group, is no stranger to the importance of building a strong brand to drive success in business.  Gregory O’Gorman, Marketing Manager at Kilkenny Group, will talk about the experience of building a brand, and how he would envisage Kilkenny working the Ring of Cork brand for the benefit of the Region.

As members of South and East Cork Tourism and Ring of Cork initiative, Trabolgan Holiday Village’s marketing manager Deirdre Mannion will speak about the value of being part of a network, and the opportunities that the brand ‘Ring of Cork’ presents in the industry.

Speaking at the launch of Ring of Cork last year, Minister for Agriculture, Food & Marine, Simon Coveney T.D., welcomed the new brand by saying: “This is a very positive development for the South and East Cork area, and will serve to attract national and international visitors to this region, which has so much to offer.  The Ring of Cork is particularly important as it encourages visitors to explore this ring of Cork from wonderful sites of cultural importance, marine activities, scenic trips, festivals and family activities, to great food and fun.”

The Ring of Cork includes the towns of Cobh, Midleton, Youghal, Carrigaline, and Ballincollig and their surrounding areas, and is supported by the South and East Cork Area Development organisation (SECAD) as well as the town councils of Cobh, Midleton and Youghal.
For registration, please contact Liam Fitzgerald at SECAD, 021.4631432, lfitzgerald@secad.ie and visit www.ringofcork.ie for more information.

Bandon Farmers Market

Bandon Farmers Market

Baking Emporium

Finders Inn

 Enjoyed a refreshing visit to the Bandon Farmers Market recently, refreshing mainly because I hadn’t seen many of the stalls anywhere else before. Enjoyed meeting up with, for instance, Nathan Wall of the Saddleback Pig Company, the Big Cheese herself and the Hungry Hill granolas.

The Big Cheese

The Market was set up in 2006 by a voluntary committee, who shared a love of good food, to supply a wealth of local and artisan produce to the residents of Bandon and the surrounding area. Early every Saturday morning the car park of the Old Market Garden buzzes with the activity of stalls setting up and the first customers arriving. Fruit, Vegetables, Fish, Cheese, Chocolate, and Cakes are among the many delights and you may warm up these days with a hot coffee.

Heavens Cakes

 Quite a selection of smoked cheeses available and got two big chunks for a fiver, included a delicious extra mature Carbery. Then a call to Nathan and also to Finders Inn for their excellent Ratatouille mix.

Baking Emporium's Apple Strudel

 No shortage of cakes or breads. Indeed, Heaven’s Cakes, well known in the English Market, are based in Bandon and, in addition to the cakes, have some smashing loaves available on Saturdays. The Baking Emporium is well known in West Cork and their Apple Strudel caught my eye. Next door was the Hungry Hill stand. Had a sample or two here before purchasing.

Yeast loaves by Heaven's Cakes

Lots of other stands here, including vegetables (from Ballycotton and The Hollies), fish from Baltimore (always a queue for fish), The Olive Stall, an Italian stall, an Asian one and more. See the full list here

Davitt’s of Kenmare, an excellent base

 Davitt’s of Kenmare, an excellent base

Kenmare in the evening

 Spent a few days in Kenmare recently. I was based in Davitt’s  in Henry Street and am glad to say it was a delight to stay there. We had a lovely welcome and our upstairs room, away from the street, was spacious and, with two big skylights, quite bright as was the spotless bathroom. Just in case you don’t like too much light, I’d better let you know the windows had pull-down blackout blinds!

Kenmare in the evening (2)

We had prior dining arrangements for the evenings but thoroughly enjoyed our breakfasts, not least the friendly chats with Mary. She told us that they have been there about 14 years. The well kept place, which also includes a restaurant and bar, is a credit to them. The feeling of space applies throughout and even the corridors along the different flights of bedrooms are well lit compared to higher classed accommodation. Just to finish off about the breakfasts, I must say that the choices were huge, everything from the Full Irish to cereals and seeds and yoghurts and fruits and juices, virtually anything you’d want really.

Parking was no problem to us in the middle of February but could be one later in the year, though that applies to Kenmare as a whole. Davitt’s do have a small area at the back and we used that all the time but it is really small. The parking on-street is by meter and there are some good car parks not too far away. Still, if you’re hauling cases, go to the back if you’re not lucky enough to get a spot on the street outside.

Kenmare in the morning

Kenmare itself is a lively town with some great hotels and restaurants, more than you’d think. It is also a terrific base for local touring. Indeed, it gives you a gateway both to the Ring of Kerry and to the Ring of Beara. Walking, cycling or driving, you’ll be well placed for some of the best scenery in Ireland.

And watch out too for terrific local festivals. Mary was very enthusiastic about the traditional gathering there on the 15th of August and a newer one, the Kenmare Food Carnival , is also attracting the crowds and this year’s event is scheduled for the 12th to 14th of July.

By the way, if you need a taxi while in Kenmare, you could try A1 Taxis (087 2910584 and 087 3560011). Davitt's booked them for us for one trip and we found them friendly and efficient and their fares seemed reasonable.

Fatty Wangs – best for salted jackass!

Fatty Wangs – best for salted jackass!

Chief Chowzter

Just to let you guys know – I’ve got a brand new hangout on the net. No, it’s not Fatty Wangs. It’s a new up and coming foodie app called Chowzter and its aim is to provide the punter with a regularly updated list of the best dishes in the area. Chains and chandeliers are ruled out but that leaves a lot of good food in between. 

Chowzter is just taking its first steps but already regions such as North America, Latin America, Asia Pacific, Europe and Africa are represented. Europe is possibly under-represented at the moment but still cities from Brighton to Seville are covered and so too is Cork (where I come into the picture).

Chowzter is committed to finding the tastiest food item on earth each year. “We seek out and support the local independent food purveyor and locally sourced ingredients.” Read the short mission statement here. 

While we are waiting for the full lift-off, Chowzter has been having some fun with its bloggers. Latest team effort has been an attempt to find the best sandwich in the world. There have been nominations from all over: Train Wreck Po Boy from Philly, the Hire Katsu Sando from Tokyo, the Vietnamese Sandwich from Saigon, the Choripán from Argentina, theKoKoreç from Istanbul. And then that Donkey sandwich from Beijing!

I’ll let Lillian Chou explain:

“I'm in Palawan now but back in Beijing tomorrow and will say the Shanxi ‘roujiamo’ which is available all over Beijing as a locally made bread that is stuffed with slow braised fatty pork shoulder that’s hand chopped while cooking liquid is slowly ladled onto the meat to keep it moist, then fresh green pepper (sweet) and cilantro is mixed in and it goes into the bun. In some restos, you can order extra fatty or regular lean.

Another option which is simply stunning is the Donkey sandwich. Yes, sliced salted jackass is piled on a crisp handmade bun that's been split open and piled with cilantro. The result is something like a corned beef because it's either room temp or slightly warm and the biggest surprise that's delish. The best shop is Fatty Wang's.”

So there you go! Might not be able to get you a Donkey Sandwich here, though the way things are going, better never say never. But we’ll do our best to bring you the best dishes locally.

Coming soon: Bordeaux to Ballymaloe

Visit of Jean-Charles Cazes, of Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, and the Cazes Family Selection Wines, to Ballymaloe on Sunday, 10th March 2013

The Grain Store, Ballymaloe, 6.30pm, Sunday 10th March €18

Wine tasting & presentation, by Jean Charles Cazes, showing a selection of different wines from the Cazes Family Selection wines, including Chateau Lynch-Bages. Advance booking strongly advised. Special rates also available for accommodation.

Colm McCan of Ballymaloe: "We are delighted to be welcoming Jean-Charles to Ballymaloe, in association with Michael Barry and all the team at Barry & Fitzwilliam. Château Lynch-Bages, needs no introduction in Ireland – one of the best known, respected, collected and followed, of the ‘Irish Wine Geese’ Château of Bordeaux. Born in Bordeaux, Jean-Charles Cazes grew up in Pauillac in the heart of the family vineyards at Château Lynch Bages, and since 2006, taking over from his father, Jean-Michel Cazes, he has been in charge of all the family vineyards, in France and abroad."

 (The tasting and presentation in The Grain Store is followed by a wine dinner in the dining room in Ballymaloe House, with Jean Charles Cazes, showing a selection of wines from the Cazes Family Selection wines, including Chateau Lynch-Bages, at Ballymaloe House 8.30pm €95 **Please note, the dinner is now waitlisted– but please do leave details if you would like to be contacted in case there are cancellations (there are still places available for the presentation |& tasting in the Grain Store at 6.30pm) **)

As part of The Gathering 2013, there will also be a series of other wine events, which are being planned for Cork City and County, throughout the year, with many other ‘Irish Wine Geese’ winemakers from all over the wine world, ‘flying home’ Further details here on this link: www.bringingthewinegeesehome.com

Amuse Bouche

He stowed a bottle of the local rotgut called Five Island Gin – nicknamed Five Ulcer Gin – in radioman Harry Brooks’s gas mask holster. When an MP* tapped Brooks’s hip to check for the mask, the bottle broke and left Brooks with a soggy leg. It was probably for the best. Louie noticed that when he drank the stuff, his chest hair spontaneously fell out. He later discovered that Five Island Gin was often used as a paint thinner. After that, he stuck to beer.
- From Unbroken by Laura Hillenbrand.
* Military Policeman.