CURIOUS WINES TREASURE TROVE

Mont Marcal's Gareth York (right) with Clare and myself and that gorgeous good value Cava!
Pic by Ger McCarthy

CURIOUS WINES TREASURE TROVE


When most people go to Curious Wines, they leave with wine, naturally enough. Me? I leave with a recipe, thanks to Gareth York of Mont Marcal Vinicola Penedes (Spain).

But I must admit I did get through quite a bit of tasting before I got to Gareth! All you Curious fans, and there are quite a few of you, will know that the brothers Kane have a massive selection and, in fairness, had dozens of bottles open during their Wine Fair in aid of the Guide Dogs last weekend. And the good news is that they have plenty left to sell between now and Christmas.

I’ve often heard and read the brothers talking up the Ned Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and now I’ve have to join them. It is top class but they’ve got some other cracking SBs from down, under including the Ant Moore and the Kings Favor.

Others whites that impressed on Friday evening were the Chartron & Trebuchet Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay 2010 and the Pellehaut Ampelomeryx 2009.

I’ll leave the Spanish, and Gareth’s stand, ‘til later. Started the reds with a Crane Lane Pinot Noir 2009 (8.49) from California but that was soon outmatched by The Ned 2010 (19.99) and another Kiwi The Kings Wrath 2009 (22.00).

Liked the Gregorina Sangiovese Superiore 2010 on sale at 9.99, even though it was a bit on the cold side, and then moved on to the Spanish.

Well, I had already tasted a pretty good Valdamor Albarino 2008 here at €16.99 and also a nice fruity Mont Marcal Blanco 2010 at a very reasonable €7.99. The Red will cost you the same. These two would be quite acceptable at the Christmas party, or indeed, at any party.

They had two excellent Riojas here. First was the more basic Vallobera Pago Malarina 2008, on sale at €8.99, and then the Vallobera Crianza at €11.99.

It was while we were quaffing the Cava, especially the Mont Marcal Extremarium, that I got really chatting with Gareth who is based in Barcelona with the company.

Gareth is a big fan of Café Paradiso’s Denis Cotter and of US food writer Coleman Andrews. He didn’t know about the US writer’s Irish book but highly recommended his Catalan Cuisine.

Gareth likes to play his music when he is in the kitchen and this recipe is one of his favourites to accompany the Cava. I’m not sure if it comes from the Andrews book. Maybe not.

Basically, you’ll need to toast some good quality bread and use your Iberico ham at room temperature (not straight from the fridge). Iberico ham (“the one with the acorns”) is best but you may use Serrano. You will also need really ripe tomatoes. “If hard, grate them and make a puree to which you add olive oil and salt”.

Then you pile your ham and the purée on to your toast. Pour a glass of Cava, probably your second one, and away you go!

Christmas parties made easy   Hosting parties this festive season just got easier with our simple but impressive recipes. We have a whole collection of Make−ahead dinner party recipes, as well as anew video showing three easy and tasty ways with smoked salmon. What’s your best party recipe?

All you need for a perfect party All Christmas party recipes Smoked salmon party food video Party nibbles Canapés Party drinks

BARRY'S TEA COMPETITION

BARRY’S TEA FOR YOU – THIS CHRISTMAS

There was a lot of interest in our recent post on the special Santa pack from Barry’s Tea. Briefly, Barry’s Tea created the limited edition Santa’s Tea box which is for sale exclusively on barrysteashop.ie for tea fans at home and abroad. The box is only €3.25 which is a winner for stocking fillers and sending to family and friends across the world via The Online Tea Shop

Now the good news is that they are giving us ten packs for a free contest, a contest that you may enter from home and abroad. But you need to get cracking. Tuesday next (Dec 6th) is the final date for posting abroad. So move on over to our Facebook and just press like or comment and all entries will go into the hat next Monday at noon Irish time and the ten winners will be chosen.

AVRIL: ON THE ROAD FROM ROSS

ROSSCARBERY RECIPES

On Friday morning, I drove down to Supervalu in Ticknock in Cobh to see Avril Allshire-Howe who was on duty with her samples of her Rosscarbery black and white pudding. The black is very good but the white is really amazing and is a great match with scallops. Avril is on the road regularly and will be travelling all over the county every day ‘til Christmas and still finds time to help the food movement in West Cork.

Avril is the public face of Rosscarbery Recipes and Caherbeg Free Range Pork but she will be the first to tell you that husband Willie and the rest of the family are major players on the West Cork farm. On Friday, she was also serving sample slices from her delicious Cheddar and Stout Cake which is not commercially available but which goes well with the puddings.

But don’t worry. The busy Avril also produces a newsletter and the latest edition contains the recipe for the cake and much more foodie information besides. You can read most of it, including the recipe, at the end of this post.

I hope to meet up with Avril again in the New Year and do a full post and I have also featured her here  in a Buy Local plea.


Speaking of local, there were quite a few people showing their wares in the Supervalu in Ticknock and I really enjoyed meeting them. Loved the in-house mince pies (with custard) and also the rashers from Truly Irish.  Very tasty.

Also met a few of the staff as I walked around and must say I’ve rarely met a nicer friendlier helpful bunch in any supermarket. Great atmosphere there.

For the Rosscarbery Recipes newsletter

BUY LOCAL

BUY LOCAL

I’ve been privileged this past week to have had four longish conversations with local food heroes: Kay Harte of the Farmgate Café  in Cork’s English Market, Pat Whelan of James Whelan Butchers  in Clonmel, Con Traas of the Apple Farm  in Cahir and Avril Allshire-Howe of Rosscarbery Recipes and Caherbeg Pork.

Had a couple of hours with Kay when she hosted myself and two US bloggers from the mega site footspotting.com. Then made a long promised trip to Tipp to see Pat Whelan and his marvelous shop and hear his history in food and his plans for the future, particularly that new shop that opens in Monkstown (Dublin) next week; lucky people in the Monkstown area.


And then called to the Apple Farm at Moorstown near Cahir where I met Con Traas. Lots of tidying-up work going on in the orchards and in the raised strawberry "beds" and a new processing building coming close to completion. Such a positive busy man in a positive place. And still time to pick me a four leaf clover.

Later in the week, I drove down to Supervalu (what a friendly supermarket!) in Ticknock in Cobh to see Avril who was on duty with her samples of her black and white pudding. The black is good but the white is really amazing and is a great match with scallops. Avril is on the road regularly and will be travelling all over the county every day ‘til Christmas and still finds time to help the food movement in West Cork.

Just underlines the hard work people in the food business put in. That is common to all that I’ve met in recent years. All too are proud of their work and are passionate about their produce and all talk of their integrity. And it is not just talk. They make sure the food you get is well sourced, in many cases they have control from start to finish, and quite often they have turned down the big bucks to stay cuiseach beag and maintain their integrity.

It was a pretty dull gloomy week all around, both in weather and financial terms. Yet these four showed me the bright side. I’m sure you all know someone like them, in your own county, in your own parish. Quite often, it is a family effort, with both parents and kids involved.

They should be supported by us. In the shops, in the markets, in the restaurants and wherever we eat and drink. Might not halt the economic storms but, sink or swim, by buying local, you’ll eat better!

TRUFFLES IN MAHON!

TRUFFLES IN MAHON!

Don’t all rush down to Mahon. My headline is a little deceptive! I’m talking here about young truffle trees.

You never know what you’ll see at the Mahon Point Farmer’s Market on a Thursday morning. Dropped down today for a quick run and was surprised to see the Ballyhoura Wild Mushroom stand there and I’m told it will be there until Christmas.

So we took advantage and we helped ourselves to their Shiitake Mushroom soup, one of a number available and also picked up a bunch of Chanterelle (demolished at lunch-time, I must admit!).

The big surprise though was the fact that they are selling Truffle trees, Tuber Aestivum var. uncinatum to be exact, also known as the UK summer truffle. When you buy your trees, you get a very informative leaflet on choosing and preparing your site, on how to care for your tree and how and when to look for truffles.

Ballyhoura Mushrooms will be in Mahon, as I’ve said, at least until Christmas, and you may also catch up with them at the Douglas Farmers Market every Saturday morning.

Great also to catch up with Old Millbank Smokehouse. We enjoyed their smoked produce at a recent lunch in the Farmgate and were glad to pass on the word that the pictures had gone all over the net via @foodspotting and via this post.

Interesting chat too with @jozeemac, about food of course, and then more shopping at @greensaffron (including Christmas pudding, believe it or not!), @woodside (gorgeous pork steak) , Arbutus Breads  (irresistible seeded sourdough), Flynn’s Kitchen ( (top notch jam and soup on this occasion) and more.

Great way to spend an hour or two on a Thursday. Now, if those truffle trees work out, there could be even more surprises in those stalls.

CURVES AND COLOURS IN A BUTCHER’S SHOP

CURVES AND COLOURS IN A BUTCHER’S SHOP

Never knew that meat had so many variations in colour until I saw the counter in James Whelan’s shop yesterday. What a superb display for the customer. And so much information. All well laid out and superbly lit. The soft overhead lights do their job well; there is virtually no glare and the customer sees the meat as it is.

Must say I had a terrific guide in Pat Whelan himself, taking time out from his busy day which also included a trip to the Avoca Food Market in Monkstown (Dublin) to oversee preparations for the opening of his new butcher shop there. Would love to live near a Whelan shop but at least we can always buy online .

Pat explained that the lighting was an integral part of the design and then pointed to the floor (an earthy colour) and to the ceiling (sky colours) and said the meat was the bounty of nature in between.

Curves abound too in the shop, virtually no hard angles. Fung Shui principles were employed. Pat admitted to being gob smacked when the German designer first explained the plan to him but had a good feeling about it and signed the cheque. It has worked out very well indeed.

All the major meats are well laid out here and some minor ones, everything from rabbit to beef and poultry of course and no shortage of info as to where it was raised and bred, much of it on the nearby Whlena farms.

Opposite the counter, there is a long row of shelves, generally with packs, including a whole range of puddings, from as near as Inch House and from as far as Newport (Kelly’s).

Whelan’s own pre-packed products are also displayed here, vacuum packed bacon and ham, sausages, rashers and so on. The packaging is transparent. You can visually examine the contents. Another example of the Whelan integrity! What you see is what you get.

Towards the back of the shop, there is semi-circle (curves again) that contains the “deli”, another inviting counter where you can buy prepared or semi-prepared meals, everything from Boeuf Bourguignon to a mini quiche. It very much resembles the “traiteur” counter in a French butcher shop.

Pat has also managed to find the time to author a cook book called An Irish Butcher Shop. It is full of recipes and because it is written by an Irishman for an Irish audience, you won’t have any problem finding the ingredients.

The recipes are, I can say, brilliant and if you need any further help, there is a treasure trove of help, videos even, on the Whelan site which is well worth a visit. But, I have to encourage you to make a visit to the real shop and see one of the gems of the Irish food scene.

Just hope that these few words and pictures do it justice.

FROM THE GIRL I’VE NEARLY MET

FROM THE GIRL I’VE NEARLY MET 

Dominique Geary is a wine person I’ve nearly met, on a few occasions. We came quite close in Beziers this summer but no connection materialised. Still, the welcome tweets go on and her latest is a tip off about some Languedoc wines that will go on sale, indeed on offer, in Dunnes Stores from tomorrow (30th November) until 3rd January.

“To entertain a crowd or simply to bring some cheer to those gloomy evenings,” Dominique suggests you “try the Nord Sud new vintages”.

Nord Sud Viognier 2010, Nord Sud Syrah 2009 at €8.99 or two for €14 (usually €10.99)

Night in Languedoc

And for those special festive meals? Cazal Viel based Laurent Miguel’s Grandes Cuvées are also on very special offer for the same period:

Bardou St Chinian 2007, Vérité Viognier 2008, Saga Pegot Faugères 2007 all at €12.99 (usually € 17.99)

Tasting notes and food suggestions:

Nord Sud Viognier 2010: the fresh versatility of this wine makes it a perfect choice for an aperitif or for large parties, it is perfect on its own and will also complement well any seafood canapés: try spreading smoked salmon rillettes on mini ciabatta or blinis, to make rillettes just blitz smoked salmon with crème fraîche and fresh dill or horseradish to taste!

Nord Sud Syrah 2009: cherry fruit flavours mingle with pepper and spices making this wine the ideal foil for beef. For an easy canapé with wow effect try thin slices of rare beef with a dash of crème fraîche seasoned with Moutarde de Dijon in a mini choux pastry …

Bardou, St Chinian 2007: is a Syrah based wine that shows has great intensity but displays surprising fresh fruit and minerality…A beautiful selection for traditional Christmas dinner

Vérité Viognier 2008: Vérité has become Laurent’s signature wine. The 2008 vintage displays the characteristics of the Viognier grape with fruit and floral aromas, fermented in oak barrels it has a luscious finish. Pair with traditional roast turkey or goose, or also as a perfect foil for a festive cheese selection.

Saga Pago, Faugères, 2007: a dark intense wine, dominated by robust, characterful fruit and a hint of mocha, like Bardou it will be best suited to richer meat dishes, daubes and game roasts. Why not be adventurous and try incorporating chocolate in the sauce!

CONGRATS KAMIL, 2011 Euro-toques winner

Second year running for Knockranny House Hotel
Kamil Dubanik, from Knockranny House Hotel, is Crowned Winner of
2011 Euro-toques Young Chef of the Year

The best parties are celebrated in the kitchen. Young chef Kamil Dubanik, from Knockranny House Hotel in Co. Mayo, celebrates becoming the 21st Euro-toques Young Chef of the Year, in association with BIM & Failte Ireland. 


This is an exceptional win for Knockranny House Hotel as last year’s winner also came from the hotel (Mary Ryan was the 2010 Euro-toques Young Chef winner). Chefs mentored by Knockranny House Hotel Head Chef Seamus Commons (right in picture, with Kamil) have reached the competition final for three years running.  Toques off to Kamil Dubanik (23), who was crowned the winner on Monday 28 November at a gourmet tasting lunch prepared by the competition finalists in The Merrion Hotel Dublin.

This is the ultimate acoloade that Kamil and fellow finalists have been contesting for over the last 6 weeks.  Kamil’s journey to this culinary award is remarkable. Originally from Poland, he has been in the kitchen only three year; starting out as kitchen porter Knockranny House Hotel in Westport, Co. Mayo and workings his way up to his current position of Demi-Chef de Partie. He recently completed an Advanced Certificate in Professional Cookery at GMIT.

His recipe for the culinary skills test was Roast Troncon of Achill Island Turbot, Dublin Bay Prawn Tortellini, Jerusalem Artichoke, Mushroom, Cheek, Liver, Dublin Bay Prawn, Lovage.  Cooking has allowed Kamil express his passion for a diversity of ingredients and demonstrate his creativity.  His interpretation of the competition brief and his understanding of ingredients was evident in the dish he delivered to the judging panel. Judges felt he was an eager, hungry chef who showed intelligence in his approach and an extremely high level of skill considering his mere 3 years in the kitchen. A talent to be watched.

Kamil is motivated by sometimes taking the least obvious approach to cooking.  For example in his culinary skills test, he used the fish cheeks and liver in his recipe which achieved different flavours and textures in his dish, that stood out to the judges.  Kamil appreciates and respects great Irish ingredients and pushes his own culinary instinct to use all elements where possible.  This creative thinking is also parallel to Eurotoques values of “nose to tail” cooking.

Kamil’s chef hero is the infamous Ferran Adrià and while the world’s is now his oyster, Kamil remains true to his second home of Ireland and would like to progress his career working with the best talent in the country.  Kamil  is mentored by Knockranny House Hotel Euro-toques Head Chef Seamus Commons (formerly Head Chef at Dublin’s Michelin star L’Ecrivain restaurant).

The top prize for the 2011 Euro-toques Young Chef of the Year is the opportunity of an all-expenses paid stage at The Ivy, London's favourite restaurant, under Executive Chef Gary Lee. Plus a one week stage at the award winning Michelin star Chapter One restaurant in Dublin under the tutelage of Euro-toques head chef Ross Lewis.

The ultimate challenge in the Euro-toques Young Chef competition was the culinary skills test which took place in Chapter One Dublin on Sunday 27 November.  Speaking on behalf of the judging panel, Ross Lewis commented on the high standard of skill and creativity from the finalists this year.  “There was a very high standard reflecting local and original cuisine that was thoughtful, clever and well crafted.  It was very hard to choose a clear winner today and they should be all extremely proud of themselves.”

Kamil Dubanik competed for this honour along with his fellow finalists - Aisling Gallagher (24) from Ballynahinch Castle, Galway; Kyle Greer (24) from No 27 Talbot Street Belfast; Micheal Harley (22) from Rathmullan House, Co. Donegal; David Magaeen (24) from Restaurant Victoria Belfast and Margaret Roche (23) from The Cellar at The Merrion Hotel Dublin.

Each of the six finalists in this years competition final showcased their culinary expertise by each cooking a course for the presentation lunch in The Merrion Hotel.  Each course was carefully paired with the appropriate wine for the dish, supplied by Findlater Wine & Spirit Group.

Among the overall prizes, each of the finalists will win a unique food experience with BIM and Failte Ireland. BIM will host a one day practical on-site introduction to the complex world of the seafood industry, visiting a seafood facility and discussing how fish is caught or harvested, bought, and sold, and what this all means to a chef. Including meetings with key industry personnel, processors and industry chef.  Failte Ireland will host a Food Tourism road trip - an educational 4 day food focused road trip taking in ‘hands-on’ cooking time  in top professional kitchens, visits to artisan food producers;  tastings, demos, unique meal experiences  and overnight stays with exemplary Irish food and hospitality operators.

The Euro-toques Young Chef competition emphasises training and development, with the role of the mentor being central to the process.  This years sponsors are BIM and Failte Ireland and their involvement reflects their recognition of the importance of chefs in building Ireland’s national and international food reputation, the pivotal role that ‘local food’ plays in this and, above all, their commitment to education and development in this sector.  This year’s competition is also supported suppliers La Rousse Foods, Findlater Wine & Spirit Group and Bragard, and Industry partners The Merrion Hotel Dublin, The Ivy London and Chapter One Restaurant.

HOME and AWAY with BARRY's TEA

Miss Ireland, Holly Carpenter

Barry’s Tea has created a limited edition Santa’s Tea box which is for sale exclusively on barrysteashop.ie for tea fans at home and abroad. The box is still only €3.25 which is a winner for stocking fillers and sending to family and friends across the world.

The Online Tea Shop, which hosts a range of Barry’s Tea blends, from the flagship Gold Blend and the varied Speciality range, to bespoke Barry’s Tea merchandise has been a huge hit with Irish abroad. For Christmas 2011, Barry’s Tea is introducing a special edition Santa’s Tea box for Barry’s fans at home and abroad.

The store was designed to meet the needs of Barry’s Tea fans abroad who otherwise have no access to their favourite tea brand. Barry’s Tea fans in the UK are the biggest users of Barry’s Tea online store followed closely by USA, Australia and, in fourth place, Germany.

Camille O’Flanagan from Barry’s Tea said “So many Irish abroad are delighted that Barry’s Tea have created an Online Tea Shop where they can purchase their favourite blend. It’s a fantastic feeling to be able to send our blends direct from our home in Cork to anywhere in the world.”

Note: An Post recommend posting all parcels and packages before December 6th for deliveries to arrive in time for Christmas in all countries outside of Europe.

Amuse Bouche

In Michael Eaude’s book Catalonia he refers to a mediaeval recipe for Roast Cat which involved roasting the animal in oil, garlic and herbs. The brains, by the way, were removed before cooking.

GREAT BALLS OF FLOUR

GREAT BALLS OF FLOUR

US BLOGGERS AT THE FARMGATE

A short notice from Fáilte Ireland to meet Foodspotting.com  aces Amy Cao (New York) and Chris Connolly (San Francisco) turned into a long and leisurely tour of the outstanding Farmgate menu, our guide none other than owner Kay Harte, recently named Good Food Ireland’s Ambassador of the Year for her tireless promotion of local food.

Amy  is Head of Community at Foodspotting, a worldwide visual guide to good food and where to find it. Photos are important here and that is where Chris comes in. Aside from being an expert with the lens he is also a designer.

Kay sat down with us and ordered samples of everything on the menu and told us all about each part of the dish as she shared it out. I don't think the Americans had ever seen any restaurant owner as informative and as passionate about food and where it came from.

The tour was delivered with a calm passion that amazed the visitors and was illustrated in the best possible way: with examples from virtually every single dish on the current menu at the English market institution. Didn’t have enough room on one table so we had to move to get space.

Some of the simple things took the interest of the visitors, including the starting plate of breads. And then there were the “balls of flour”. Kate illustrated that with a bowl of Golden Wonders, skins intact, and cut one in half to show just what she meant by the phrase. The potatoes come from her regular supplier in Ballymacoda in East Cork.

Oysters were on offer and they were ordered from the O’Connell’s fish stall downstairs, the regular practice here. The oysters originally come from the appropriately named Oysterhaven near Kinsale. And there was also her marvelous fish pie, cod on this occasion. This looked so delicious that even Chris, not a lover of fish, was tempted.

All the time emhasising the place of food in the Irish way of life and , at one point, making reference to the Irish language book, the Diary of Humphrey O’Sullivan (Cín Lae Amhlaoibh), which details the rich and varied diet of an ordinary Irish household in the first half of the 19th century, Kay emphasised the importance of local provenance. Not just Cork, by the way: if the best cheese in Ireland comes from Donegal, then she will get it from Donegal.

Farmgate classics on the table included Old Millbank Smoked Organic Salmon, Spiced Beef, Irish Lamb Stew, Corned Beef, Lamb’s Liver and Bacon and, of course, Tripe, Onions and Drisheen (with those local jacket potatoes).

Time flew by and I got a bit worried towards the end when I spotted my two hour parking had long since run out but luckily I wasn't clamped or anything like that. In any event the two bloggers were also anxious to head off to the Cliff House in Ardmore and very sorry that they wouldn't get to Ballymaloe.

What an enjoyable afternoon. Oh, forgot to mention the drinks. Both were craft beers. From Mitchelstown’s Eight Degrees Brewing: Chris took the Howling Gale Ale while I choose the Knockmealdown Porter.

To read more about the Foodspotters trip...

IMPRESSIVE WINE SHOW IN CRAWFORD

FROM VINEYARDS DIRECT


From Vineyards Direct brought a very impressive collection, curated by Stuart Smith, to the Crawford Art Gallery last evening, some minor and major masterpieces among the 30 or so wines up for tasting.

Missed some familiar faces in the crowd: there were two other wine events on in the city, one even in the Crawford Café up the hallway. But nice to see ex garda and author Jim Ryan (on escort duty), Ollie from Glanmire's Cream Café and Miriam from the Cork and Bottle Wine Club.

Some punters were very happy with the Torrebrava Manzanilla but I went for the Brut 1415 Moingeon Blanc de Blanc (€12.95) as my aperitif. This south of France sparkler was top notch and a great way to start a Christmas party.

There were at least two gems among the whites including Domaine de la Motte, Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy 2007 (17.95), a beautiful fresh minerally example of Chardonnay.

Perhaps the best of the New World offerings, of both colours, was the Stanley Estate Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2011 (€15.95), confirming to me once again that this area and neighboring Nelson are the places to go for reliable SB.

Those two whites would fit into the Christmas schedule without any problem as would two good value reds. For quality and value it would be hard to beat the Chateau Bauduc Bordeaux Rouge 2008 (€11.95) and, for two euro extra, the rich and spicy Mas Belle Eaux, les Coteaux, Languedoc 2008.

And for the special occasion, which Christmas is, you might consider splashing out on a top Bordeaux, the luscious and intense Chateau La Commanderie de Mazeyres, Pomerol 2001 (€31.95).

While in you are in the mood, why not try a sweet ending. Maybe not Yquem but Haut Charmes, Sauternes 2009, a good example of the famous dessert wine. A full bottle will cost you €35.95 while a half will set you back €18.95.

Maybe you don’t like them as sweet as that. There was a good alternative there last night, well balanced and warming: Churchills Reserve Port (€17.95).

A very satisfactory tour among the sculptures and drink for thought. For more info on the wines and to order contact From Vineyards Direct here