Friday, January 17, 2025

On the Craft Trail with Brehon Brewery, Western Herd, Third Barrel and Eight Degrees

 On the Craft Trail with Brehon Brewery, Western Herd, Third Barrel and Eight Degrees

Eight Degrees Howling Gale Pale Ale 4.5% ABV, 440 cl can 

Like a smack around the gills 

when you're "clain lifting it" down Ballyhoura hills


I'm not the only one to rate this Pale Ale highly. Howling Gale was the first beer Eight Degrees ever brewed. We’ve all changed a lot since then but not this superb ale, their first, and it is still their most popular beer.


They add: “It’s like blitzing down the Ballyhouras on a bike with an icy wind in your face, this pale ale delivers a refreshing crisp smack around the gills.” Never came down those hills on a bike but I can certainly relate to the smack around the gills, especially with the refreshing finish.


It pours a pale golden colour into the glass, with a white head. And yes, you do get that citrus on the nose, along with pine notes. It is smooth and crisp with that modest whack of bitterness in the finish.

Eight Degrees, now happily restored as a team, got this right from the start. And, also from the get-go, they provided food pairing hints. “Try with fish and chips, smoked salmon or anything off the barbecue…. With a pleasant grapefruit citrus aroma from Cascade and Simcoe hops, it is a great match with spicy or fried food”.

Malt: Irish pale malt, Carapils, Munich, Cara
Hops: Nugget, Cascade, Simcoe



Brehon Red Right Hand Barley Wine 11.0% ABV, 500 ml bottle Bradleys


“gentle to drink, clean, mellow and smooth”

A gorgeous ruby red is the colour of out Barley Wine from Monaghan’s Brehon brewery. It is crowned with a coffee coloured soft head. Despite the high abv, It is a bourbon-aged beer, earthy and sweet. The bourbon influence is unmistakable but quite subtle here. It also has a very high abv, but nonetheless, it is gentle and easy to drink, clean, mellow and smooth. Like any good wine, it comes with a lingering finish, leaving the taste buds anticipating the next sip

Brehon have made a name for themselves with barrel-aged beers, beginning with their Crann Beatha barrel-aged stout. This Barley Wine is well up to standard and, by the way, is a terrific match with Christmas pudding, with the Dunnes Stores Simply Better Black Barrel Whiskey edition in particular. Yum on the double.


Speaking of their strong beers, be sure and look out for the super Oak & Mirrors Cask Aged Imperial Porter.

They say: The red right hand is symbolic of the historic clans of Ulster. It embodies strength, unity and character, just like our Bourbon Barrel Aged Barley Wine. 



Western Herd Blue Jumper IPA, 6.2% ABV, 440 ml can Matsons


Baptised by Fr Dougal!


The bright amber colour and all those little bubbles of this Western Herd IPA is quite a come-on. The beer’s name is a Father Ted reference.


There’s a citrus and tropical fruit presence in the aromatics and palate, plus a hint of pine and resin, even a little dankness as well. And that vibrant hoppy edge continues all the way. After all, as the brewery indicates, India Pale Ale, or IPA, is a bigger, hoppier version of a pale ale. 


This one certainly is and that background bitterness is with you right to the finish, quite a good finish as it happens, with the malts having a say in the outcome ensuring that it is not all about the hops. But make no mistake, this a hoppy beer, an old school IPA.


Inspired by Father Ted! Yep, the name Blue Jumper comes straight out of the classic Fr. Ted episode where Sr. Assumpta is re-introduced to Fr. Dougal. “You were wearing your blue jumper? Ah Sister Assumpta!” An icon of Irish comedy meets an icon of West Clare brewing.


 The Clare brewery has been in good form on social media in eecent weeks. Having explained the beer’s name, they have a question. Spot the Coastline? “The can design features the stunning Clare Coast line, an epic slice of the Atlantic coast that’s as refreshing as the beer inside. But which part of the coast features on the can?”. Not too sure myself, but I think it is from Liscannor Bay up to Black Head.



Geek Bits


Style Indian Pale Ale

Colour/Appearance Amber in appearance with a clean white head

Aroma Orange and other citrus, pine, and light peach

Flavour Candied orange and a background bitterness

Hops Citra, Idaho 7, Centennial

Malts Pale, Stout Mix, Caramunich I, CaraPils, White Wheat

Yeast LAX

Original Gravity 1.059

ABV 6.2%



Third Barrel Texture Like Sun American Brown Ale, 5.5% ABV, 440 ml can, Bradleys


“absolutely SLAMMABLE American style brown ale”



The colour is a deep red, rather than brown, with a soft off-white head. Caramel and chocolate are in the aromatics, and they are also found in the mouth along with citrus flavours from the Centennial hops, the only one used. Quite an interesting example from Third Barrel and Highly Recommended. The brewers are very happy with this one: “Complex yet absolutely SLAMMABLE American style brown ale.”

 


The history of this style dates back to U.S. homebrewers being inspired by English-style brown ales and porters. US Craft brewers then took it up; while inspired by the English, the Americans weren’t content to be just imitators and took the style in different directions.


One of the Brit beers that came under the US focus was the Samuel Smith Nut Brown Ale. This “was a huge influence on a generation of American craft brewers.. in 1983,” according to Jeff Alworth in the Beer Bible. American-style brown ales generally have evident low to medium hop flavour and aroma and medium to high hop bitterness.


Not many Brown Ales are being produced by Irish brewers, and most have been once-offs. Look out for examples from Ballykilcavan (Bambricks), Lough Gill (McNuttys), Lineman (Big Calm), and Outer Place (Silent Orbit). Samuel Smith is already mentioned but the first English Browne Ale to catch my attention was Newcastle Brown Ale, and that came in a generous 550cl bottle.






Wednesday, January 15, 2025

Hard To Choose Between Two Superb Ragus at Bella Napoli!

Hard To Choose Between Two 

Superb Ragus at Bella Napoli!

Ragu Alla Genovese


As we’ve come to expect from Italian restaurants in Ireland, you get multiple choices in a long menu. Cork’s lively Bella Napoli is no exception.


I had read it before last Saturday afternoon’s visit and was inclined towards a Ragu. They have two: Ragu Napolitano and Ragu Alla Genovese.


I was familiar with the Napolitano as I had hugely enjoyed it on a previous visit though the pasta is now pappardelle (the ribbony one!) rather than the tubular rigatoni. Saturday’s menu description read: 8-hour braised beef in an onion & tomato sauce served with pappardelle pasta, toasted sourdough and parmesan shavings.



I was tempted again by the Napolitano, but this time, I said to myself and herself that I’d go for their Ragu Alla Genovese: Slow-cooked pulled beef, onions, white wine served with paccheri pasta, fresh basil, pecorino cheese and toasted sourdough. The paccheri, by the way, is visibly larger and wider than rigatoni. It does the same job, soaking in the flavoursome ragu itself. 


They served toasted sourdough to accompany the ragu, which also helped take up the final taste bits. So, a big thumbs up for the Genovese. Hard to say if it is better than the Napolitano! Looks like I’ll have to call again.

Mussels Alla Busara


Across the table, CL was equally pleased with her choice of mains, the Chicken Scaloppine: Marinated chicken breast, dredged in flour, cooked in butter and lemon sauce, and served with crushed baked potatoes, honey and rosemary-glazed baby carrots. It is a simple enough dish but quite superb as well.


We had started with their Mussels Alla Busara. Busara is a local name for “stew”, and it is an integral part of Croatian coastal cuisine and is also claimed by parts of north-eastern Italy.


The Bella Napoli version consists of fresh mussels cooked in olive oil, garlic, freshly chopped parsley, white wine, and breadcrumbs, served with our homemade puccia bread and lemon wedge. The breadcrumbs, by the way, are used to thicken the sauce. I don't think I’ve come across puccia bread before. It is a type of bread from Puglia, and its small pocket takes a variety of fillings. However, the tasty breads served here were not for filling but for soaking up the delicious sauce that came with the mussels. An excellent dish and the only downside was that a higher proportion than usual of the mussels did not open!

Chicken Scaloppine


If you love your pizza, you won't be disappointed as they have about twenty variations. You may also order a gluten-free pizza base, which will cost an extra euro. Almost as many pasta dishes are available, plus about eight other main courses and various starters and salads, not forgetting sides.


If you manage it, you will find something you like on the dessert menu as well, though we didn’t manage it at the weekend. Previously, though, we enjoyed their traditional Tiramisu and the mega Nutella Pizza (Nutella, strawberries, bananas & icing sugar).


They do walk-ins (from their two entrances (French Church Street and Academy Street), but if you want to dine at a particular time, you’re advised to book. For instance, we saw seven people turned away in one minute around the three o’clock mark on Saturday. You may be lucky. A few minutes later, a group of four was accommodated, though they had to wait a few minutes for a table to be cleared. Bella Napoli is a very popular place, and they also do takeaway.

Ragu Napolitano  (previous visit)


 

Tuesday, January 14, 2025

Infused with fresh oysters from Clew Bay. Mescan Spéartha Dorcha Oyster Stout. Beer of the Week:

Mescan Spéartha Dorcha Oyster Stout, 4.7% ABV, 330 ml bottle, Bradleys 


infused with fresh oysters from Clew Bay




Black as a dark sky when the stars stay home, this Mescan oyster-infused stout looks great. It smells pretty good, too, and, most importantly, tastes amazing with malty notes of chocolate and coffee and a mineral hint of the sea, thanks (probably) to the Clew Bay oysters!


It was brewed with water from Mescan’s own spring on the slopes of Croagh Patrick, using traditional stout malts, restrained hopping, and Pádraic Gannon’s locally grown oysters in the boil, and then fermented with Belgian yeast. This is quite the experience and Very Highly Recommended. Recommended serving temperature is 4-6 °C 


The name Spéartha Dorcha came about because Mescan supports the Mayo Dark Skies project. “Naturally, dark skies promote better ecosystems for our life and well-being. This beer was matured for months under skies free from light pollution and infused with fresh oysters..”


Mescan Brewery began as an idea in 2010 following a conversation between the founders, Irishman Cillian Ó Móráin and Belgian Bart Adons, about the strain of out-of-hours veterinary work. This led to a mid-life career change and new lives as brewers. They sold their first beer in 2014.


This stout was launched in Newport (Co.Mayo) last October, and the event included tastings of Spéartha Dorcha Oyster Stout and Croagh Patrick Seafood oysters. 

Clew Bay

Monday, January 13, 2025

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Garganega Veneto. A simple wine without frills but lively and mineral

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Garganega Veneto (IGT) 2022, 11.5%

€21.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny



A simple wine but lively and mineral, without frills



Straw yellow is the colour of this organic white from the Veneto region of northwestern Italy. The aromatics have delicate citrusy notes. The big “hello” comes on the palate, where a tart lemon and lime combo more or less ambushes the drinker. The acidity balances the fruit, and a lingering finish follows, which is always a good sign.

The producers sum it up well: It's a simple wine but lively and mineral, without frills. I agree and am happy to give it the Very Highly Recommended tag.

La Biancara was established at the end of the 1980s, when pizza makers Angiolino and Rosamaria Maule bought a small plot of land, about six hectares, in the hills of Gambellara. Since then, they have worked to develop their personal idea of wine: a wine created by the exaltation of nature, without chemical interferences in the vineyard or in the cellar, to obtain the highest expression of terroir in every bottle. 

A few years back, at a Veneto Masterclass in Dublin, Dario Poddana (Les Caves de Pyrene) praised the Maule family and said they were at the forefront of the natural wine movement, and not just in Italy.


Masieri is made (mostly) from Garganega grapes. Vino Italiano, which praises the vineyard (as does the World Atlas of Wine), says it could be argued that the (white) wines are purer expressions of Garganega than those of neighbouring Soave. Garganega is thought by some to be related to the Greco (another Mediterranean grape that I like) of southern Italy.

Check the Le Caveau list for other wines from this marvellous wine-making family.

Friday, January 10, 2025

The impressive Le P’tit Martin Côtes Du Rhone. "no pesticides, chemical fertilisers or weed killers"

Le P’tit Martin Côtes Du Rhone (AOC) 2023, 14% ABV, 

€24.00 at Matsons (Bandon, Grange and Youghal)



no pesticides, chemical fertilisers or weed killers


Quite an impressive Côtes Du Rhone. By the way, the designation is AOC, the generic one rather than a village, but it is still a good one, especially on the fruity and spicy palate. It has quite a depth of tarty red and black fruit flavour. Overall, this ruby red wine, aromatic and packed with flavour, is excellent and Very Highly Recommended.


It is a blend of 66% Syrah and 34% Grenache Noir, just two of the more than twenty grape varieties allowed by the Côtes Du Rhone AOC. Serve cool with grilled red meats, charcuterie boards, cheeses, and pork and chicken dishes.


Wine has been produced in the area for hundreds of years, with the beginnings of the designation coming in 1650 with rules to protect authenticity and guarantee quality.

Frost has had a major influence on the wine story here. In 1956, the famous Mistral Wind (still an influence), battered the region for three weeks, reaching a velocity of over one hundred kilometres per hour and dropping to a temperature of minus 15 degrees centigrade.

Most of the region's olive trees suffered serious frost damage but the vines resisted so well that the majority of the local farmers decided to turn over primarily to vine cultivation.

At the Oratoire Saint-Martin, they use no pesticides, chemical fertilizers or weed killers. The estate is certified as organic by Ecocert and biodynamic by Demeter.

Wednesday, January 8, 2025

Blarney Castle Gardens. Through The Seasons 2024

Blarney Castle Gardens.

Through The Seasons 2024 

Laburnum in May

January daffodil display


Same three trees - Feb, May, November


April abundance of Wild Garlic and Bluebells

Merry month of May

Pergola with Wisteria

Carnivorous (June)

Pergola in July

Castle and Tower

August arch

Fly Agaric Fungus (October)

Autumn colours


Frosty morning in winter.