Hard To Choose Between Two Superb Ragus at Bella Napoli!

Hard To Choose Between Two 

Superb Ragus at Bella Napoli!

Ragu Alla Genovese

As we’ve come to expect from Italian restaurants in Ireland, you get multiple choices in a long menu. Cork’s lively Bella Napoli is no exception.

I had read it before last Saturday afternoon’s visit and was inclined towards a Ragu. They have two: Ragu Napolitano and Ragu Alla Genovese.

I was familiar with the Napolitano as I had hugely enjoyed it on a previous visit though the pasta is now pappardelle (the ribbony one!) rather than the tubular rigatoni. Saturday’s menu description read: 8-hour braised beef in an onion & tomato sauce served with pappardelle pasta, toasted sourdough and parmesan shavings.

I was tempted again by the Napolitano, but this time, I said to myself and herself that I’d go for their Ragu Alla Genovese: Slow-cooked pulled beef, onions, white wine served with paccheri pasta, fresh basil, pecorino cheese and toasted sourdough. The paccheri, by the way, is visibly larger and wider than rigatoni. It does the same job, soaking in the flavoursome ragu itself. 

They served toasted sourdough to accompany the ragu, which also helped take up the final taste bits. So, a big thumbs up for the Genovese. Hard to say if it is better than the Napolitano! Looks like I’ll have to call again.

Mussels Alla Busara

Across the table, CL was equally pleased with her choice of mains, the Chicken Scaloppine: Marinated chicken breast, dredged in flour, cooked in butter and lemon sauce, and served with crushed baked potatoes, honey and rosemary-glazed baby carrots. It is a simple enough dish but quite superb as well.

We had started with their Mussels Alla Busara. Busara is a local name for “stew”, and it is an integral part of Croatian coastal cuisine and is also claimed by parts of north-eastern Italy.

The Bella Napoli version consists of fresh mussels cooked in olive oil, garlic, freshly chopped parsley, white wine, and breadcrumbs, served with our homemade puccia bread and lemon wedge. The breadcrumbs, by the way, are used to thicken the sauce. I don't think I’ve come across puccia bread before. It is a type of bread from Puglia, and its small pocket takes a variety of fillings. However, the tasty breads served here were not for filling but for soaking up the delicious sauce that came with the mussels. An excellent dish and the only downside was that a higher proportion than usual of the mussels did not open!

Chicken Scaloppine

If you love your pizza, you won't be disappointed as they have about twenty variations. You may also order a gluten-free pizza base, which will cost an extra euro. Almost as many pasta dishes are available, plus about eight other main courses and various starters and salads, not forgetting sides.

If you manage it, you will find something you like on the dessert menu as well, though we didn’t manage it at the weekend. Previously, though, we enjoyed their traditional Tiramisu and the mega Nutella Pizza (Nutella, strawberries, bananas & icing sugar).

They do walk-ins (from their two entrances (French Church Street and Academy Street), but if you want to dine at a particular time, you’re advised to book. For instance, we saw seven people turned away in one minute around the three o’clock mark on Saturday. You may be lucky. A few minutes later, a group of four was accommodated, though they had to wait a few minutes for a table to be cleared. Bella Napoli is a very popular place, and they also do takeaway.

Ragu Napolitano  (previous visit)

 

Infused with fresh oysters from Clew Bay. Mescan Spéartha Dorcha Oyster Stout. Beer of the Week:

Mescan Spéartha Dorcha Oyster Stout, 4.7% ABV, 330 ml bottle, Bradleys 

infused with fresh oysters from Clew Bay

Black as a dark sky when the stars stay home, this Mescan oyster-infused stout looks great. It smells pretty good, too, and, most importantly, tastes amazing with malty notes of chocolate and coffee and a mineral hint of the sea, thanks (probably) to the Clew Bay oysters!

It was brewed with water from Mescan’s own spring on the slopes of Croagh Patrick, using traditional stout malts, restrained hopping, and Pádraic Gannon’s locally grown oysters in the boil, and then fermented with Belgian yeast. This is quite the experience and Very Highly Recommended. Recommended serving temperature is 4-6 °C 

The name Spéartha Dorcha came about because Mescan supports the Mayo Dark Skies project. “Naturally, dark skies promote better ecosystems for our life and well-being. This beer was matured for months under skies free from light pollution and infused with fresh oysters..”

Mescan Brewery began as an idea in 2010 following a conversation between the founders, Irishman Cillian Ó Móráin and Belgian Bart Adons, about the strain of out-of-hours veterinary work. This led to a mid-life career change and new lives as brewers. They sold their first beer in 2014.

This stout was launched in Newport (Co.Mayo) last October, and the event included tastings of Spéartha Dorcha Oyster Stout and Croagh Patrick Seafood oysters. 

Clew Bay

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Garganega Veneto. A simple wine without frills but lively and mineral

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Garganega Veneto (IGT) 2022, 11.5%

€21.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

A simple wine but lively and mineral, without frills

Straw yellow is the colour of this organic white from the Veneto region of northwestern Italy. The aromatics have delicate citrusy notes. The big “hello” comes on the palate, where a tart lemon and lime combo more or less ambushes the drinker. The acidity balances the fruit, and a lingering finish follows, which is always a good sign.

The producers sum it up well: It's a simple wine but lively and mineral, without frills. I agree and am happy to give it the Very Highly Recommended tag.

La Biancara was established at the end of the 1980s, when pizza makers Angiolino and Rosamaria Maule bought a small plot of land, about six hectares, in the hills of Gambellara. Since then, they have worked to develop their personal idea of wine: a wine created by the exaltation of nature, without chemical interferences in the vineyard or in the cellar, to obtain the highest expression of terroir in every bottle. 

A few years back, at a Veneto Masterclass in Dublin, Dario Poddana (Les Caves de Pyrene) praised the Maule family and said they were at the forefront of the natural wine movement, and not just in Italy.

Masieri is made (mostly) from Garganega grapes. Vino Italiano, which praises the vineyard (as does the World Atlas of Wine), says it could be argued that the (white) wines are purer expressions of Garganega than those of neighbouring Soave. Garganega is thought by some to be related to the Greco (another Mediterranean grape that I like) of southern Italy.

Check the Le Caveau list for other wines from this marvellous wine-making family.

The impressive Le P’tit Martin Côtes Du Rhone. "no pesticides, chemical fertilisers or weed killers"

Le P’tit Martin Côtes Du Rhone (AOC) 2023, 14% ABV, 

€24.00 at Matsons (Bandon, Grange and Youghal)

no pesticides, chemical fertilisers or weed killers

Quite an impressive Côtes Du Rhone. By the way, the designation is AOC, the generic one rather than a village, but it is still a good one, especially on the fruity and spicy palate. It has quite a depth of tarty red and black fruit flavour. Overall, this ruby red wine, aromatic and packed with flavour, is excellent and Very Highly Recommended.

It is a blend of 66% Syrah and 34% Grenache Noir, just two of the more than twenty grape varieties allowed by the Côtes Du Rhone AOC. Serve cool with grilled red meats, charcuterie boards, cheeses, and pork and chicken dishes.

Wine has been produced in the area for hundreds of years, with the beginnings of the designation coming in 1650 with rules to protect authenticity and guarantee quality.

Frost has had a major influence on the wine story here. In 1956, the famous Mistral Wind (still an influence), battered the region for three weeks, reaching a velocity of over one hundred kilometres per hour and dropping to a temperature of minus 15 degrees centigrade.

Most of the region's olive trees suffered serious frost damage but the vines resisted so well that the majority of the local farmers decided to turn over primarily to vine cultivation.

At the Oratoire Saint-Martin, they use no pesticides, chemical fertilizers or weed killers. The estate is certified as organic by Ecocert and biodynamic by Demeter.

Blarney Castle Gardens. Through The Seasons 2024

Blarney Castle Gardens.

Through The Seasons 2024 

Laburnum in May

January daffodil display

Same three trees - Feb, May, November

April abundance of Wild Garlic and Bluebells

Merry month of May

Pergola with Wisteria

Carnivorous (June)

Pergola in July

Castle and Tower

August arch

Fly Agaric Fungus (October)

Autumn colours

Frosty morning in winter.

Memorable dishes from 2024. Cork, Carlow, Galway, Kerry, Waterford and Wexford

Memorable dishes from 2024

Clams at Farol

From Cork, Carlow, Galway, Kerry, Waterford and Wexford

Ethnic

Portuguese

Farol Tapas in Sunday’s Well. Their Ameijoas a Farol – succulent clams bathed in a fragrant garlic-white wine sauce with a touch of heat – were simply exquisite.

Thai. 

BAHT, an authentic Thai Dining Experience In Carlow. Check it here.

Italian. Da Mirco’s. Try the Maccheroni Ragu Di Salsiccia, a fantastic dish of homemade macaroni served in an Italian sausage and rosemary ragu, topped with a mix of bread crumbs and grated parmesan.

Cod at Greene's

Fish

Lobster at The Cornstore: Terrific appetiser of Mini Lobster Rolls with buttered brioche and the Atlantic Lobster.

Glenmar Scallops at Greene’s, served cold, with a lively and lovely Coriander and Lime Sauce, Chilli, Kohlrabi, and Crispy Quinoa

Cod, also at Greene’s: Cod (fish of the day), perfectly cooked and accompanied by Peperonata, Samphire, and Parsley Butter.

Trout Double at La Cote Wexford: starter - The Gravlax of Sea Trout with Goatsbridge Trout Caviar, Herb Potato, and French Mustard was a revelation 

Oysters at Moran’s Oyster Cottage, Kilcolgan, Co. Galway. Local Oysters Three ways!

Crab at Jacques. Castletownbere Crab Salad, adorned with Strawberries, Balsamic, and Black Pepper. 

Hake at The Lodge (Myrtleville). Hake with Zaatar. Zaatar, a Levantine culinary herb or family of herbs, is also the name of a spice mixture. It is hugely versatile at the table, as we found in the popular venue when it was used to “crust” a delicious piece of Hake.

Prawn Cocktail at the Garryvoe Hotel. Their famous Dublin Bay Prawn Cocktail, Crisp Gem Lettuce, Sauce Marie Rose® & Homemade Brown Bread”.

Chowder at Greene’s. Ballycotton Fresh and Smoked Fish, Mussels, Clams, and Pana Bread (. Rich and creamy, the flavour was outstanding.

Lamb at Monks Lane

Lamb

Lamb Slowcooked at Monks Lane. Lamb slow-cooked Spanish-style lamb (was a revelation. The menu description, mentioning "herb potatoes" and "flaked almonds," didn't quite do it justice. This was a rich, flavourful stew packed with tender lamb, a medley of fresh vegetables, and a scattering of almonds that added a delightful textural contrast. It was so good

Slow Cooked Braised Lamb Shank at Farmgate Lismore — the meat falls off the bone, bathed in a fragrant rosemary lamb jus, accompanied by creamy spring onion champ and a vibrant carrot and swede purée.

Slow Cooked Lamb Shoulder at the MET Bar & Restaurant - McCarthy’s, boasting melt-in-your-mouth lamb complemented by pickled watermelon rind, roasted squash & beets, and a delightful surprise – Channa masala chickpeas.

The Glass Curtain Rack of Lamb, crushed artichoke, pistachio, glazed lamb belly and celeriac. Another superb dish from an accomplished kitchen.

Ichigo Ichie

Duck

Ichigo Ichie’s Skeaghanore Duck with Hay Leek, grilled scallion, leaves, Sansho salt and an unexpected garnish of potato with Nori that went down very well.

Pasta

Pasta Salsicca e Fiarelli at Bramley Lodge. The salsicca is Italian sausage and there were also wilted greens, pancetta and saffron. Excellent.

Misunderstood Heron

Food Trucks & Market Stalls

Stall - Kay’s English Market - The popular Fish Box includes Panko Crumbed Haddock, Fish Cake, Smoked Salmon Croquettes, Fried Potatoes, Salad, and Dip. Tasty stuff!

Food Trucks - Misunderstood Heron (Connemara) - Pork - Achiote (a natural orange-red condiment) + Orange Pork + Rice + Charred Red Pepper + Salsa

View from Killeen House, Killarney

Best Hotel Breakfast.

At Rozzers at Killeen House, Killarney. Look out for the fish offering every morning! More here.

Top Brunch

At On The Pig’s Back in Douglas: Oeufs Pochés  à la Bretonne. Oh la la!

Top Quiche

At Proby’s Kitchen. The lunchtime quiche featured Warm Leek, feta and Cavolo Nero with seasonal leaves.

Nadur Deli.

Best Pastry

The pistachio white chocolate and blueberry at Nadur Deli.

Outstanding Curry

The Lodge (Myrtleville)  - the comforting warmth of a North Indian-style Baigan Aloo Tanatar (eggplant, potatoes, and tomatoes) simmered in a symphony of curry spices. Add in a side of rice, and enjoy!

Steak

Looking for steak? Head to MacCurtain Street, Food Street of the Year in Cork. 

The Glass Curtain offers a porterhouse steak, with bone marrow jus, for sharing.

Next door, Thompsons have quite a variety of aged steaks via Kanturk butcher Jack McCarthy, complete with some superb sauces and sides.

Just up the street, Greene’s offers a little theatrical touch as their steaks are served on the stone, always an eye-catcher and also a palate pleaser.

Burger

Wagyu at Thompsons. McCarthy’s Wagyu is not among the steak offerings but has a starring role in this Burger, along with shredded lettuce, homemade pickles, Coolea Cheddar, and roasted garlic aioli. Not to mention chunky house fries. 

Mullicháin Café, Carlow

Pie

Gallaghers claim the original Beef and Beamish Pie (Beamish stout, braised beef and root vegetables, topped with a crispy puff pastry). It has been on their menu since they opened. They serve it with fries or mashed potatoes. I chose the mash, which worked very well. They also do a superb fish pie!

Soup

French Onion Soup at Market Lane - French Onion Soup has been featured at Market Lane since 2009. The current version, featuring Coolea cheese and sourdough croutons, is one of the best yet and is a fantastic starter. 

Hidden Gem

Mullicháin Café, Carlow. Nestled along the picturesque River Barrow in St. Mullins, Co. Carlow, the Mullicháin Café is a charming oasis that offers a delightful blend of history, cuisine, and natural beauty. Oh yes, good food too!