Farmgate Cafe: A Cork Institution Where Market-Fresh Reigns Supreme

Farmgate Café. Pure Cork. Market-Fresh Guaranteed!

A Cork Institution Where Market-Fresh Reigns Supreme

We Irish may hold a special place in our hearts for lamb stew and potatoes, but sometimes, you crave something a little different. Thankfully, the Farmgate Cafe, nestled above the bustling English Market, offers a haven for those seeking alternative delicious and innovative dishes made with the freshest local ingredients. Still, when I saw the stew and potatoes arrive on a nearby table, I was beginning to have regrets.  

A Legacy of Quality

For decades, the Farmgate has been a cornerstone of the Cork culinary scene. I vividly remember a visit with American bloggers nearly 13 years ago, where founder Kay Harte showcased the magic of Irish cuisine. Her enthusiasm for "balls of flour" – those glorious Golden Wonder potatoes delivered from her longstanding East Cork supplier – was infectious, and the dish that arrived at a nearby table during my recent visit confirmed their enduring appeal.

While the menu was slightly reduced due to the post-holiday Tuesday lull, the quality remained exceptional. My companion opted for the Garryhinch Mushroom Vol au Vent with Walnut and Lemon Pangrattato, a delightful twist on a classic, and the verdict was a resounding "top notch."

I succumbed to the Toasted Sandwich with Loin of Bacon, Scarmorza Cheese, and Onion Marmalade. It was a medley of flavours, the smoky cheese and succulent bacon beautifully complemented by the sweetness of the marmalade. This winning combination, amplified by the equally impressive soup on the side, earned a well-deserved five stars.

Sweet Endings and Market Charm

After much deliberation, the classic Bakewell tart emerged victorious from the dessert debate. Its generous central layer of smooth and delicious plus its topping of perfectly sliced almonds, the ensemble in warm custard, provided a sweet and satisfying conclusion to the meal.

The Farmgate's post-Covid customer queueing system flowed seamlessly. Despite being close to capacity, the atmosphere was calm and convivial. The well-trained servers navigated the space with practised ease, projecting a sense of relaxed efficiency amidst the lively hum of conversation and the inherent buzz of the market itself.

More Than Just a Cafe

The Farmgate Cafe transcends the typical lunchtime haunt. It's a testament to the enduring power of fresh, seasonal ingredients and the importance of supporting local producers. It's a place where generations of Corkonians have gathered to enjoy good food and company, all within the vibrant tapestry of the English Market.

Cork may boast about its good things, and rightfully so, and the Farmgate Cafe stands out as a true gem, a market treasure offering an experience that goes far beyond "balls of flour" (though those are pretty darn good too)!

Cool station in La Boqueria St Josep, Barcelona.

We are not alone though. Quite a few well-loved cafés are located within large markets around Europe, similar to the Farmgate (but maybe without those balls of flour)! Here are a few.

La Boqueria, Barcelona, Spain: This world-famous market has several cafes lining its sides, offering everything from fresh tapas and pintxos to seafood paella and refreshing sangria.

Campo de' Fiori Market, Rome, Italy: This bustling market has several cafes and restaurants where you can grab a table and enjoy fresh pasta dishes, cured meats, and local cheeses all sourced from the market stalls.

Lisbon Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon, Portugal: This recently renovated market offers a variety of trendy cafes and restaurants, many focussed on fresh seafood and Portuguese specialities like Pastel de Nata custard tarts.

Borough Market, London, England: This historic market is home to a few cafes serving delicious meals made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Visitors can enjoy everything from a classic full English breakfast to lighter options like salads and sandwiches

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey: The Grand Bazaar has numerous small eateries serving  Turkish staples like gözleme (stuffed flatbreads), kebab wraps, and refreshing glasses of Turkish tea.

These are just a few examples, and many other cafes are located within markets all over Europe. They offer a unique way to experience the sights, sounds, and flavours of a local market while enjoying a delicious meal; in that regard, Cork is as good as any.

Barcelona.

Looking for a wine to pair with your Ardsallagh or St Tola? This Sancerre is perfect.

Looking for a wine to pair with your Ardsallagh or St Tola? This Sancerre is perfect. 

Chateau de Chenonceau on the Cher River

Jean-Max Roger Cuvée “Genèse” Sancerre (AC) 2022, 12.5% ABV

€20.50 (16.40 in sale) Dunnes Stores

In years gone by, I used to get a fair bit of Jean-Max Roger wine from Karwig’s in Carrigaline and so was happy enough to see this in Dunnes. It was at a good price in their French Wine sale, down from the regular €20.50 to €16.40.

The Roger family are well-known for their Loire wines. This one comes from the village of Bué and is situated close to the Cher River, a tributary of the mighty Loire. The Loire wines of Sauvignon Blanc are designated Sancerre and this example is precise and refreshing, less pungent than its New Zealand counterpart (none the worse for that).

Check out  our Top Wines 2024 list (with stockists and short reviews) here 

Looking for better value? All under 20 euro. Click here

Limpid in the glass, the light gold colour invites you to come and explore its fruity and flinty aromas, its citrus led fruits (apple, pear also) in an elegant and vibrant medium-bodied wine, right through to a dry, long and flavourful finish. This particular wine has been made “by several generations of our family. It is the genesis of our estate.”

The Loire Valley is well known for its superb goats cheeses and this Sauvignon will do well with the likes of Chavignol (which you can find in Ireland) and Couronne Lochoise. The latter may not be available here but, in any case, I’d be making the ash versions of Ardsallagh and St Tola my first choices. Aside from the cheeses, fish is regularly mentioned as a pairing: grilled fish, sushi and sashimi, and it is a sensational pairing for seafood. Serve at 10 to 13 °C.

 

Beer of the Week: Silent Orbit from Outer Place. Hopped heavily and easily drunk brown ale.

Beer of the Week 

Outer Place Silent Orbit American Brown Ale, 6.2% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

"a distinctive and easily drunk brown ale"

Brown is the expected colour but there is quite a bit of red in there too, all under an off-white head. Malt aromas of medium intensity reach the nose. On the palate, not alone do you find malt characters like caramel and chocolate but also some sweet fruit (orange and apricot) from the hops with a touch of pine. 

A hint of sweetness is evident amongst all that, yet there is an excellent balance between malts and hops so this delicious beer is never out of kilter.

Quite a distinctive and easily drunk brown ale from Outer Space who admit to loving their hops: “It’s no secret!  You can expect plenty of hoppy offerings in various styles coming in the future”.

Silent Orbit

The history of this style dates back to U.S. homebrewers inspired by English-style brown ales and porters. US Craft brewers then took it up; while inspired by the English, the Americans weren’t content to be just imitators and took the style in different directions.

One of the Brit beers that came under the US focus was the Samuel Smith Nut Brown Ale. This “was a huge influence on a generation of American craft brewers.. in 1983,” according to Jeff Alworth in the Beer Bible.

American-style brown ales have evident low to medium hop flavour and aroma and medium to high hop bitterness. Silent Orbit has been hopped heavily with a combo of Idaho 7 (used in both whirlpool and the dry hop), Ekuanot and Galaxy hops. Our Beer of the Week and Very Highly Recommended.

Not many Brown Ales are being produced by Irish brewers and some have been once-offs. Two that you should be able to find easily are Bambrick’s by Ballykilcavan and McNuttys by Lough Gill.

Bambricks has an ABV of 5.8%. It is a rich and malty American-style Brown Ale, with notes of dark chocolate and burnt toffee. The Lough Gill brown ale (5.5%) is brewed with real macadamia nuts, along with top quality malts and hops for a rich nutty flavour and a luxurious dark brown colour and is a favourite of mine.

If you’d like to try an American-made brown ale for comparison purposes, you may be able to get your hands on Brooklyn Brown. The New York brewery describes this as a go-to for those who like a little soulful spin to their beer. “Old-school roasted malts and new-school American hops keep it hearty but not heavy, and always party-ready. There’s a reason it’s a cult-classic.” According to the Beer Bible, this “favors roast over nut….It’s surprisingly hoppy as well.”

Silent Orbit Geek Bits

Style: American Brown Ale
ABV: 6.2%
IBU: 40
Hops: Idaho7, Ekuanot & Galaxy

Blarney Castle Gardens. Pics taken 04.03.2024

Blarney Castle Gardens

Pics taken 04.03.2024

Western Skunk Cabbage (and below)

Taste of the Week. Mahers Coffee Blend Six. A Coffee Legacy Still Rocking!

Taste of the Week. 

Mahers Coffee Blend Six.

A Coffee Legacy Still Rocking!

Looking for an excellent and reliable everyday coffee? Then look no further than Mahers at 25 Oliver Plunkett (Cork) and get yourself a bag of their Blend Six. If you wanted Blend Six back in the day, you'd have been heading to Maher's Delicatessen on Marlboro Street. Their number there was six and that was where the blend's name came from!

This isn't just any ordinary coffee; it's a Cork legacy, still a favourite amongst loyal customers who fondly remember getting it back in the day at the original store. Frank Mackey of Maher's confirms: "It still remains one of our most popular coffees in our shop and online store. Some of our longtime customers still reference buying it in Marlboro Street."

Pic via Kranich17 Pixabay.

Mahers import coffee beans from all over the world and Blend Six is made with a masterful blend of beans from Indonesia, Kenya, and Colombia, and delivers a smooth yet robust punch (think powerful, not overpowering) with delightful hints of fruit and a touch of tannin for a perfectly balanced finish. It's the ideal companion for a mid-morning pick-me-up or an afternoon energy boost – no matter the time of day, it'll enhance your coffee experience.

Maher's has been selling quality coffee for decades, and their expertise is truly evident in  Blend Six. The friendly staff at Oliver Plunkett Street are coffee wizards, ready to grind your beans to your specifications (espresso, filter, cafetière, Turkish, stovetop/Aeropress – you name it!). So head down to Maher's and grab a bag (or two!) of Blend Six – your taste buds will thank you. And, a bonus, you'll enjoy the chat and the smiles.

Foradori Tasting at Ballymaloe. Superb organic wines from native Italian grapes

Foradori Tasting at Ballymaloe

Superb organic wines from native Italian grapes.

Holiday weekend or not, you can always bank on Ballymaloe for an excellent tasting. That is exactly what we experienced in a packed upstairs at the Grainstore when Theo Zierock came to East Cork bearing no less than seven amazing organic Foradori wines from the family’s Trentino-Alto Ridge vineyard.

The magnificent Dolomites look down on their vineyard. “We make wines that speak of the mountains and the valleys. We don’t make wine like they make in Bordeaux.” Not that he was doing down the wines of Bordeaux or indeed those of any other region. He was simply saying that each area, each terroir, has a wine story of its own to tell.

Frank Hederman. Master Fish Smoker.

Frank Hederman. Master Fish Smoker.

Mr Hederman smokes fish, which is a little like saying Steinway makes pianos. (New York Times).

Frank Hederman is a master at smoking fish, and his expertise is highly regarded, at home and abroad. His process is unique, developed over 40 years of experimentation. When he started, there were no apprenticeships available and established smokers were unwilling to share their secrets. So, he started experimenting with his way of doing things. Although he had a few close calls, he eventually succeeded.

Beechwood chips

Frank began by building a small smoker, using local bricks,  in an old shed. He used Pyrex dishes to hold the fish and barrels from the Midleton Distillery for chips. He fed the alcohol-soaked staves in manually for hours on end. Now and then, there was an explosion and the Pyrex dish came flying out the opening until a simple slat was attached as a safety measure. The process was rough and ready, and he admits that he was "daft and mad." However, he stuck with it and went on to build Ireland's first modular fish plant.

The Market Lane Restaurant Group is Recognised as Top Employer by 'Great Place To Work'

The Market Lane Restaurant Group is Recognised 

as Top Employer by 'Great Place To Work'

From L to R:  Margaret Keane, Grace Maduka, Ozgur Canpolat, Gavin Corrigan and Natalia Machado representing the five restaurants that comprise Cork's Market Lane Group

The Group has also won a Failte Ireland Employer Excellence Group Award

The Market Lane Group of Restaurants in Cork is honoured to announce that it is one of only a handful of companies in the Irish hospitality sector to be certified as a ‘Great Place to Work 2024’. The Group has also won a prestigious Failte Ireland ‘Employer Excellence’ Gold Award 2024, recognising it as an “outstanding employer” in the tourism sector.

“We are proud and humbled to receive these Awards,” said head of the Market Lane Group, Conrad Howard.  

“‘Great Place to Work’ (GPTW) found that 94% of staff said they would be proud to tell others they work with us and 92% think the company is a great place to work,” he said.

“We are lucky that we have such an excellent team at the Market Lane Group, and we are very proud that they feel so positively about their working environment. We have always made staff welfare and professional development a priority and these findings show that this commitment has been very worthwhile.

  
“Being recognised as a great place to work is also a huge asset; it's good for staff and suppliers, good for customers and good for business.  As far as we know we are the only restaurant group to have achieved both awards” he added.

Ozgur, with cocktails.

Comprising 5 restaurants including Market Lane, Elbow Lane Smokehouse & Brewery, ORSO, Goldie and Castle Café Blackrock, the Market Lane Group employs up to 200 staff in the hospitality sector in Cork and its restaurants look after thousands of diners every week.  As well as catering for locals, the company also prides itself as an integral part of the quality tourism offering in Cork’s city centre.

Staff recruitment and retention are key to maintaining high standards, and the group is delighted that it can now use these awards to help attract new employees into the industry and to show that it can provide them with really rewarding, longstanding careers.

Grace Maduka and Natalia Machado

 
The GPTW programme operates as part of the Tourism Ireland Employer Excellence scheme by undertaking a detailed employee survey and feedback process on behalf of employers. Strict criteria need to be met to qualify for certification and companies have to score highly across several key employee satisfaction indicators such as trust in management, training and development opportunities, pride in the workplace, remuneration and diversity and inclusion practices.

 
The Market Lane Group will now go on to take part in the finals of Failte Ireland’s annual Employer Excellence Awards which spotlights the top operators in key tourism sectors across the country.  The overall winners will be announced in May 2024.

press release

“Each tank is tasted three times a day to determine what is needed.” Altos Las Hormigas “Terroir” Malbec Valle de Uco

Altos Las Hormigas “Terroir” Malbec Valle de Uco Mendoza 2019, 13.5% ABV, 

RRP €26.95. Stockists: The Cinnamon Cottage / JJ O’Driscoll Superstore Ballinlough / The Corkscrew

“Each tank is tasted three times a day to determine what is needed.”

Coming from a careful selection of grapes from the oldest geological part of Uco Valley in Argentina, this Malbec is a deep ruby. The aromatics feature dark berries and cherries and also show outstanding violet notes. The vivid fruitiness and the distinctive floral elements all come together harmoniously in a fresh and round palate, while acidity and tannins also play a balancing role here and the finish pleasantly lingers.

Not my first time enjoying this stellar wine. Very Highly Recommended.

“This Malbec is ideal to pair with various dishes, from red meats to pasta or grilled vegetables”, according to the producers, Malbec specialists since 1995. Serve at 16 degrees.

Check out  our Top Wines 2024 list (with stockists and short reviews) here 

Looking for better value? All under 20 euro. Click here

Just to give you an idea of the attention to detail here, here’s a quote from their website on this Malbec’s fermentation. “100% Malbec grapes harvested by hand. After a careful, double-sorting process, the grapes are softly pressed and fermented with indigenous yeasts to express the vineyard they come from. Fermentation takes place in separate stainless steel tanks between 24-28°C for 10 days. Each tank is tasted three times a day to determine what is needed. The wine is then aged for a minimum of 9 months in concrete vats. No oak aging.”

Pic via Diego_Torres Pixabay

Where did the name come from? It was already there even before the vineyard was founded. The ants (Las Hormigas) love newly planted vines. But the owners didn't want to poison them, after all the ants were the original inhabitants; they lived with the nuisance and then found that the ants had no interest in the vines once they began to grow. (Source: Wines of South America by Evan Goldstein.)

Taste of the Week. Juicy Pears from The Roughty Fruit King

Taste of the Week. 

Juicy Pears from The Roughty Fruit King

Calling all fruit lovers!

Today, we're featuring a taste sensation that's sure to tantalise your palate: unsprayed pears from The Roughty Fruit King at the English Market.

While you might be reaching for chocolate this weekend, don't underestimate the power of a gorgeous pear. These juicy and flavourful beauties are bursting with freshness and haven't been treated with any sprays.

Enjoy them your way! Bite right in for a burst of flavour or, as I did yesterday, slice them up for an extra dose of deliciousness. They're also perfect for poaching in red wine for a warm and comforting dessert.

Don't miss out on this taste of pure, unadulterated goodness! Head over to Margo Ann's Roughty Fruit in the English Market and grab your own bag of unsprayed pears today. Fairly priced too, by the way!

This delicious red carries Vin De France on its label but is none the worse for that! Famille Hubert L’Atypic de Peybonhomme.

Famille Hubert L’Atypic de Peybonhomme (Vin de France) 2021, 12.5% ABV

About €22.00 retail. Stockists: Sonas in Newcastle West, Co. Limerick & Wunderkaffee in Cork along with Mary Pawle. 

The delicious L'Atypic carries Vin De France on its label but is none the worse for that! 

The Cabernet Franc and Malbec blend may be well regularly used in Argentina but not so much in Bordeaux. And so we get the name, “The Atypic”. This atypical blend also means that it doesn't qualify for AOC and so is sold under the Vin De France designation. None the worse for that!

The colour of this wine is a deep ruby. Aromas are fresh and fruity. And that follows through to the palate, delicious fruity juice (blackberry and cherry) with a pleasant peppery bite. It is well-rounded with soft tannins.

The blend is 60% Cabernet Franc (a grape noted for its freshness) and 40% Malbec. The percentages may not be the same in every vintage. Highly Recommended.

L’Atypic is organic and fermentation is with natural grape yeasts. They say it is bottled early to “keep all the freshness of the fruit”. L'Atypic is raised entirely in concrete (and bottled unfiltered so expect some natural sediment at the bottom of the bottle). Cultivation here, since 2000, follows biodynamic practice. Lots of "hands-on" work involved.

It is not recommended to accompany fish but is otherwise quite versatile at the table (including with Charcuterie platters and tapas) and very enjoyable at the barbecue. Serve slightly chilled at 17-18°C.

The winery itself can be found in the Premières Côtes de Blaye on the right bank overlooking the Gironde estuary. If, like many Irish people, you have holidayed in the Royan area, you may well be familiar with these Famille Hubert wines from Peybonhomme as the vineyard is just 75 minutes or so away.

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