"Why don’t we see more Chardonnays from Beaujolais?" Dominique Morel Beaujolais-Villages Blanc.

Dominique Morel Beaujolais-Villages Blanc (AC) Chardonnay 2022, 12.5% ABV, 

RRP €23.95. Stockists: The Cinnamon Cottage; JJ O’Driscoll Superstore Ballinlough; Higgins Off Licence; wineonline.ie

"Why don’t we see more Chardonnays from Beaujolais?"

The colour of this Beaujolais Chardonnay is a lovely mid-gold, pristine in the glass. The vibrant aromatics feature blossom and citrus. On the palate, it is sprightly and crisp, light and fresh, nicely acidic. 

This fresh unoaked beauty is a wine with much to offer, including an elegant finish. With good fruit and acidity and moderate alcohol, it is quite versatile at the table, well endowed with the potential to feature as a terrific house wine in a restaurant.

One of the best Chardonnays around and Very Highly Recommended.

So why don’t we see more Chardonnays from Beaujolais? Mainly because the growers concentrate on the Gamay grape whose red wines are so much sought after. 

At the same time, there is a fair bit of Chardonnay grown here. Indeed, Jean Bourjade, then MD Inter Beaujolais, told a Cork audience in 2016 that as the Macon overlaps Beaujolais, many white wines made in northern Beaujolais are sold under the better-known Mâcon appellation.” Just to underline the point, Mâcon is less than a 25 minute drive from Émeringes where Morel ia based.

Ten years ago Christine and Dominique started on the adventure of exploring the possibilities of white in a region that is devoted to red. Importers Liberty tell us that the Blanc is made from Chardonnay planted on granitic-clay soil, producing a wine with distinct freshness and excellent fruit concentration. 

The grapes are gently pressed and fermented in stainless-steel tanks, to preserve delicate fruit aromas. All work in the vineyard, including harvesting, is done by hand. The vines are an average of 15 years old. The resulting wine then undergoes lees-ageing for four to five months, lending texture and roundness to balance its vibrant acidity.

Morel’s Recommended pairings: Avocados stuffed with prawns, scallops, fish and chicken vol au vents, fish mousse, frogs’ legs, mixed salads, button mushrooms in cream, andouillette with white wine, veal curry, chicken curry. As an aperitif with appetisers. Serve at 10 degrees.

Beer of the Week. 9 White Deer's Well Bred Stag Kolsch

Beer of the Week.

9 White Deer's Well Bred Stag Kolsch 

9 White Deer Stag Kolsch, 4.2% ABV, 500 ml bottle, O’Donovan’s

Stag Kolsch, by 9 White Deer Brewery in Ballyvourney, is our Beer of the Week.

See the fountains of micro-bubbles rise through the yellow/amber body towards the soft white head. This Stag Kolsch, with its high carbonation level and gentle hop character, is palate-friendly with an almost creamy feel. Easy to quaff and easy to see how this refreshing gluten-free and flavoursome beer (more malty than hoppy) has become quite a seller, widely available in both bottle and draught.

But what style is it? Some call it a lager, some call it an ale, others hybrid. Don't worry too much about it, just enjoy! It is a style that originated in Cologne.

The team in 9 White Deer have certainly cracked the style here. They have brewed with German Nobel Hops, Premium Irish and German Malt and German Yeast. Stag Kolsch gets “an extended lagering time where it can develop and mature into a classic premium European style beer”. 

The brewery had, still have, two big “factors” on their side when they set out to produce a Kolsch: the local water and a famous German brewmaster. The water, from the Cork and Kerry mountains, is really soft, just perfect for lager-style beers. 

And the guidance they got from Roland, then brewmaster of the well-known Munich brewery Augustiner and still a friend of the Ballyvourney brewery, could not have been bettered. Kolsch and 9 White Deer were on their way.

JAMESON BLACK BARREL BARTENDER SERIES COMPETITION LAUNCHES FOR THIRD YEAR!

JAMESON BLACK BARREL BARTENDER SERIES COMPETITION LAUNCHES FOR THIRD YEAR

CHAMPIONING LOCAL BAR CULTURE TO INSPIRE CREATIVITY WITHIN THE INDUSTRY, 2024’S PRIZE WILL OFFER RARE MENTORING OPPORTUNITIES WITH INDUSTRY GIANTS

Jameson, the world’s most shared and most awarded Irish whiskey, is delighted to announce the third annual Jameson Black Barrel Bartender Series 2024 competition, open for entries from 1st April – May 15th.
The 2024 series invites the bar community to participate in the competition, encouraging each applicant to champion their local cultures and communities by creating a unique, regionally inspired cocktail using Jameson Black Barrel.

The top 25 ‘Regional Winners’ will be awarded €500 and win a 3-day, all expenses paid trip to Midleton Distillery, Ireland to attend the ‘Jameson HOSTS Global Summit’ curated in collaboration with award-winning bartender Remy Savage. Additionally, the top 3 ‘Global Champions’, will each win €5000 and access to an innovative Jameson mentoring programme that includes in-person and virtual sessions with industry giants such as hospitality consultant Danil Nevsky, bar owners Ezra Star and Beckaly Franks, and summit curator Remy Savage, on topics from brand building to social media strategy and bar operations.

The Jameson HOSTS Global Summit, attended by 100+ global bar community guests, offers unrivalled networking and inspirational seminars lead by prominent industry figures. As part of their prize, the top 25 ‘Regional Winners’ will win travel and access to 2024’s Summit as well as behind-the-scenes tours and unique experiences during their trip.

Jameson, which is strongly committed to creating a fair and balanced competition, has created a two-tiered judging system for 2024 to increase transparency and accessibility. Bartenders can enter the competition by submitting a 1-minute video of their cocktail creation to be judged by leading figures in the industry. Judges, including Danil Nevsky of Indie Bartender, Priyanka Blah of The Dram Attic and Ethan Liu of CMYK, will determine the 25 ‘Regional Winners’ and, within this, the ‘Top 10’ finalists. Finally, the 3 ‘Global Champions’ will be decided by taste test and anonymous voting live at the Global Summit, in a distinctively pioneering peer judging process.

Speaking on the addition of the mentorship programme, Tony O’Brien, Jameson Global Advocacy Manager, commented: “Many established members of the industry regularly speak to the ‘things they wish they had known’ as they first started their careers and their mentors who allowed them to discover their voice. This is something, as a brand, Jameson wants to continue nurturing in the industry, which is why, in addition to the monetary prize, for 2024 we wanted to give something extra back to the community with the mentoring programme and access to some of the best in the business. The Global Summit will also allow our Top 25 a rare networking opportunity as we have curated our global summit to be a place of connection, inspiration and growth with many attendees going on to continue relationships they have built at the event, through friendship and even professionally with bar takeovers and partnerships.”

Remy Savage, award-winning bartender and mentor for 2024, commented, “Mentorship is something I have always made part of my identity as a bartender and bar owner. I believe it is the past, present and future of our industry and I’m very happy to continue to mentor the next wave of creatives and be part of their journey in this community”. Remy will also host seminars at the Global Summit, with his 2023 presentation focusing on drinks development theory.

The competition will be open for entries from 1st April and close on 15th May for judging with 25 ‘Regional Winners’ announced on 7th June. Cocktail submissions will use Jameson Black Barrel, a blend of pot still and rare small batch grain whiskeys, triple distilled, and known for its richness and notes of vanilla and caramel sweetness, toasted wood, fruit and warming spice. This exceptional liquid’s production, matured in a combination of American oak, sherry casks and double charred Bourbon barrels creates a distinctive flavour profile that makes it the ideal foundation to cocktails.  

For more information and updates, bartenders can visit the Jameson website or follow @JamesonHOSTS

Castlemartyr's Hunted Hog In Good Hands

 Castlemartyr's Hunted Hog In Good Hands

What would a five-star hotel want with a local pub? That question came up often when news broke that Castlemartyr Resort had bought a local tavern called Hunted Hog, previously owned by the Emporium Consortium and before that by comedian Pat Shortt.

Once I thought about the acquisition, I could see a "good fit". In fact, the "fit" was already established by wedding parties stopping off at the Hog for a pint or two in the old bar, and enjoying the craic on its riverside terrace, before heading to the hotel for the banquet.

So from now on, if you arrive at the junction of the village's Main Street and the road to Garryvoe on a summer weekend, or any time during the wedding season, expect to find a lively scene inside and out. When we arrived for lunch on a rainy March day, it wasn't that lively, nor would you expect it to be so. Our biggest worry was where to get parking close to the venue. We did find it just around the corner but that may not be the case later in the year.

The bar, while retaining its traditional vibe, has been improved and brightened up since we last called in the days under Pat Shortt.  The bar counter is on your right as you enter from the street and the first thing I spotted was a couple of taps with craft beer from the Killarney Brewing Company. Happy to see that and happy to enjoy a glass of their Golden Spear with my lunch.

The main dining room is on your left - just walk through, no doors. There is a well-worn timber floor emphasising the character of the building and quite a few more hints, by way of old bottles, flasks, advertisements and other posters, on the shelves and on the walls. Another area further in on the right has a telly for races and matches. They also have music here at weekends so it doesn't just doze through these winter months.

Indeed we got a lively warm welcome as did everyone else that came in that lunchtime. We were led to our table and soon we were sipping the IPA and studying the shortish menu, short yes but not lacking in quality. Far from it, as we were about to discover. 

They do a roast here daily and our server told us all about the Slow Cooked Brisket and veg. But having had beef at a confirmation meal the evening before, we gave the roast a skip, this time. 

We started with soups. CL enjoyed her Potato and Leek while I also savoured my Seafood Chowder (packed with pieces of fish) and both of these were accompanied by a well-made brown bread. Our excellent server kept an eye on us without overdoing it and checked if we needed more of the bread or more of anything.

Local suppliers and producers are supported by the pub (which is run by Colin and Barry Hennessey): the fish comes from Ballycotton pier, beef and chicken from Clifford's Craft Butchers on Main Street, greens come from the grocer across the road, and whiskey from the distillery in Midleton, all mentioned on the website. What you get here is good quality Irish cuisine.

The Fish Tacos were a good example, the breaded prawns on crispy tacos with a well-dressed selection of organic leaves certainly went down well with CL. More or less the same salad was served with their excellent chicken liver paté, also delicious Cumberland sauce and the bread, instead of the hard doorstep sourdough you often get, was a soft toasted Ciabatta. A terrific combination.

Thumbs up overall for the lunch and happy as we stepped out into the rain with just a short walk needed to get from bar to car.

The picturesque Luberon deserves to be better known here in Ireland for its wines. This one is an excellent introduction.

Famille Perrin Luberon (AOC) 2021, 13% ABV

€14.95 at Bradleys.

The Luberon deserves to be better known here in Ireland for its wines. This one is an excellent introduction. Highly Recommended

Gordes, one of the hilltop villages in the Luberon (by jacqueline macou from Pixabay)

Our Luberon blend, strikingly limpid in the glass, has a light gold colour. Famille Perrin proposes it as an aperitif wine or to accompany simple cuisine, a great everyday white wine! 

Citrus notes of lemon and lime abound in the aromatics along with a whiff of white flowers. The zesty fruits continue to the palate where the wine is endowed with freshness, elegance and balance with a knockout punch of acidity.

Vines below the
village of Ménerbes 2011

 

  The varying weather - ranging from frost in April to rain at the relatively late vintage - kept the vineyard teams on their toes. But they got their reward, one that we can share!

The Perrin family have been winemakers in the Rhone Valley for five generations. Their wines illustrate a strong knowledge and a deep attachment to these exceptional terroirs. The blend is:

Bourboulenc : 30%

Grenache : 30%

Ugni blanc : 30%

Roussanne : 10%.

  

It is excellent as “an aperitif wine or to accompany simple cuisine, a great everyday white wine!”

8°C with a starter or a cold buf

The Luberon is a trio of mountain ranges and associated valleys in the middle of Provence in the south of France. It is rather well known in these islands largely because of the writings of Peter Mayle. His books included A Year in Provence (made into a TV series).

My holiday pic of hilltop Bonnieux (2011)

A Good Year brought him even more notice. It was transformed into an easy-to-watch film directed by Ridley Scott and starring Russell Crowe. It was shot in the Luberon and some of the scenes, including the cafe ones, were filmed in Lacoste, one of the many picturesque hilltop villages in the region. Others include Gordes, Lourmarin, Roussillon (reddest town in France!) and Ménerbes. 

On the craft trail: Two Red Ales and a Session IPA from 9 White Deer, O'Hara's and Lough Gill

On the craft trail

Two Red Ales and a Session IPA 

from 9 White Deer, O'Hara's and Lough Gill

9 White Deer Stag Rua Red Ale, 4.2% ABV, 500 ml bottle Bradleys

Be big, be bold, Bí Dána

Made with a mix of ale, crystal and chocolate malts, Stag Rua by Ballyvourney’s 9 White Deer, pours a very dark red indeed, with a soft off-white head. Indeed at first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking that a glass of stout was on the way to you.

Chocolate, coffee and caramel in the aromas and also on the smooth palate. A really well-balanced beer with no single ingredient dominating. Quite a satisfying mouthful indeed. Easy-drinking as they indicate and also Gluten Free (since 2018).

They say: Stag Rua is a beer with big malt flavours and it’s our impression of a perfect Irish Red Ale. The body is moderate meaning it’s not a heavy beer with an ABV of 4.2%. The flavour profile of Stag Rua is full of irresistible chocolate, caramel and toffee characteristics. These are derived from the liberal use of chocolate and crystal malts besides the gorgeous Irish ale malt. We hope you enjoy drinking it as much as we love it. Be big, be bold, Bí Dána”

Very Highly Recommended.

 

O’Hara’s Irish Red Ale, 4.3% ABV, 500 ml bottle, Dunnes

O’Hara’s has quite a dark red robe and an off white head that hangs about for a bit. They say the red colour is intensified by the finest roast barley, while subtle hop additions in the kettle give just the right bitterness and aroma to craft this distinctive Irish Red Ale.

Roasted caramel stands out in the aromatics. And you get that caramel and toffee flavour on the palate as well, thanks to the addition of a “pinch of roast barley during the brewing process”. The sweetness of the malt and traditional hop flavour combine well. A terrific example of the style gets a major thumbs up from this quarter.

 

The Carlow Brewing crew is naturally quite proud of their red ale: “This Red stands out in this beer style category. The malt body is as impressive as a bock, albeit in a uniquely Irish way….is much more complex than its mainstream rivals.”

Excellent balance and Very Highly Recommended

 

For the Geek

Style: Traditional Red Ale

ABV: 4.3%

IBU: 34 

Fermentation: Top fermentation 

Availability: Keg (carbonated), Bottle 50cl and 33cl (occasional 41L cask)

Serving Temperature: 6-8°C

Food Pairing: Pairs well with baked and roasted main courses from the oven such as beef hotpot. Also excellent with winter soups. A delicious accompaniment to mature cheddar or soft goat cheeses.

Lough Gill Shaka Session IPA, 3.8% ABV, 440 ml can, Higgins SuperValu

This light gold coloured IPA comes from the excellent Lough Gill Brewery in Sligo. 

It is hazy. Look hard and you’ll note fountains of bubbles rising up to the soft white head.  At 3.8% ABV, it limbos comfortably under the session bar. Aromas are moderate, are of the tropical kind and very pleasant. And so it continues smoothly on the palate with more tropical notes, also some citrus, and an almost creamy mouthfeel that “has been amped up with the addition of oats and Dextrin malts”. 

Another well-balanced beer with a refreshing finish and well suited to a session.

Highly Recommended.

A Merlot gem from Rizzardi. Made only in those years “in which we believe the Merlot grapes reach the highest level”

Rizzardi Clos Roareti Rosso Veronese (IGT) 2019, 14.5% ABV, €29.95, O’Briens Wine

Made only in those years “in which we believe the Merlot grapes reach the highest level”.

Guerrieri Rizzardi is located near the eastern shore of Lake Garda. But the grapes for this wine come from further inland, to the east. The vineyard is in Valpolicella, less than half an hour north of Verona.

Their Clos Roareti is a Merlot and is a smooth and supple performer on the palate.  It has the typical ruby colour, tending towards the darker side. Aromas, a melange of fruit and floral, give notes of cherry and violet. And a trace too of vanilla. 

It is rich and full-bodied and, according to the producer’s words, “is a unique departure from the lighter styles of Merlot from the Veneto region”. Easy drinking for sure, well balanced with a lip-smacking grip towards the end.

The first vintage of Clos Roareti, a single vineyard Merlot, was in 2006.  The grapes come from the historic monopole (a French term used to indicate that the entire vineyard is owned by a single grower or company). This Cru vineyard of Rovereti is in Negrar, Valpolicella. 

In this centuries-old walled vineyard, the family began to plant Merlot from the late 1990s onwards,  a grape variety perfectly suited to the climate and the vineyard’s red clay soil. 

Maffei Palace and winged Lion of Saint Mark - Verona 

The resulting wine is a rich, full-bodied and complex Merlot.  Clos Roareti is not made every year but only in those years “in which we believe the Merlot grapes reach the highest level”.

Check out  our Top Wines 2024 list (with stockists and short reviews) here 

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They recommend decanting and serving at around 16° C (or 60° F) and as an accompaniment to roast game or to red meats such as rack of lamb or fillet mignon, also with tomato-based pasta dishes. Ageing potential: up to 10 years.

Very Highly Recommended

Just started working my way through Vino by Joe Campanale who advocates using a Venn system to find a true Italian wine. Instead of the traditional pyramid with DOCG or similar at the top, his Venn (using three intersecting circles) values Artisan Winemakers, Exceptional Terroir and Native Grapes. Not too sure that Rizzardi would agree with Joe!