Excellent food (and history also) make a visit to new Probys Kitchen well worthwhile. This area is where Cork was founded

Excellent food (and history also) make a visit to new Probys Kitchen well worthwhile. 

This area is where Cork was founded: city's oldest bridge,  the bastion (17th cen.) and cathedral (18th cen.)

Best ever!

You can enjoy superb food and brush up on your knowledge of Corh history when you call into the new Probys Kitchen.

We enjoyed two excellent main courses when we visited  last week. Probys, on a former quay of the same name (though with an apostrophe), is also a few yards from French’s Quay.

Re-enactment at fort

No shortage of historic sites adjacent to the restaurant as both Elizabeth Fort (the city’s seventeenth-century star-shaped bastion) and the late 18th-century Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral (with its three spires and golden angel) are neighbours. The cathedral is the most recent of a series of religious structures on a site where Cork’s patron Saint Finbarr built his church in the 7th century, a church that led to a city that celebrated 800 years in 1985.

Delicious!

This venture is led by Marianne and Denis from Café Gusto & Liberty Grill, along with Pat Browne, formerly of Ballymaloe Cookery School. They say: “Probys Kitchen shares the same commitment to fresh, seasonal, and healthy food made from scratch, as in our other establishments, with a focus on a shared passion for a sustainable future. All menus are offered in-house or click & collect. We recommend booking in advance on our booking page.’

Probys start with breakfast, then lunch from 12 midday Monday to Friday, with brunch on weekends from 11 am. The three menus offer something for all kinds of eaters: meat-eaters, vegetarians and vegans have more than the usual token dishes available. Fish eaters will look in vain though that could well change when the planned extension to evening dining comes about.

While most of the produce is sourced locally, the style of cuisine is broad-ranging. Influences and flavours from around the globe, mostly Mediterranean and Asian, and includes influences from Japan, Vietnam, and Italy, and spices like Saffron, Harissa and Chili. If you are in for breakfast or weekend brunch, you may want to try the Coconut French Toast - I certainly would!

On to our picks. The Quiche, one of the vegetarian options, featured Warm Leek, feta and Cavolo Nero with seasonal leaves; the side of roasties was well worth the few euro extra. Another superb plateful, inviting to the eye, appetising and very satisfying indeed. CL was delighted, proclaiming it as the best quiche ever, all for €14.40.

I rarely miss out on an opportunity to try anything from O’Mahony’s Butchers so my pick was the Featherblade On Sourdough with O'Mahony's beef, horseradish cream, watercress & roasties (16.50). 

This wasn’t your usual “wheel” of pulled beef and came with a steak knife. Not much need for the knife as the meat was tender and delicious. The watercress was just one element in an inviting salad and crunchy coleslaw, while the roasties were enlivened by herbs and garlic and the horseradish cream added another tasty delight.

We finished off with two of their three desserts (an Apple, blackberry & almond cake and a Salted caramel meringue roulade) and a couple of cups of coffee. Service was friendly all through. They have a full range of coffee pours from Espresso to Latte, also Barrys Tea and Fruit Teas and no shortage of soft drinks either.

Proby's and the cathedral.

Just four wines, one sparkling and three stills (rosé, white and red, all available by the bottle, carafe or glass). Had I been drinking, my pick would have been the ERA Montepulciano d’Abruzzo which is imported by Mary Pawle and recently highly recommended on the blog.

And speaking of wine, I’m reminded of another piece of local history here. French's Quay is named after James French, who was a wine merchant in Cork in the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries and was Mayor of Cork in 1696. His business interests dovetailed with his civic activities as he frequently supplied the wine which was drunk by the city fathers on festive occasions. I think if he were around these days he’d be trying to get on the Probys list!

South Gate Bridge

From an island paradise comes this divine Vermentino

From an island paradise comes this divine Vermentino

Domaine Vico Le Bois Du Cerf Vermentinu (AC) 2022, 13% ABV

RRP €28.95. Stockists: The Cinnamon Cottage / JJ O’Driscoll Superstore Ballinlough / Sweeney's D3 / Jus de Vine / Clontarf Wines / Alain and Christine Wine and Card Shop / Grapevine /Blackrock Cellar

The grapes for this 100% Vermentino are sourced from 45-year-old vines, which sit on blue schist soils at 300 metres altitude. Unlike most Corsican producers, Domaine Vico’s vineyards are situated away from the coast in mountain foothills.

Vermentino is mainly associated with Sardinia, where over half of the production occurs. However, it is also commonly grown in Corsica, where it is known as Vermentinu, and where several superb examples are produced, including this one.

It has a straw-yellow colour. Citrus and floral, the engaging aromas also have a hint of honey. It is complex and absolutely gorgeous on the palate, the aromas staying on strongly as the refreshing fruit (fresh citrus and orchard fruit) and herbaceous flavours spread across before a fruity and refreshing finish.  

Very Highly Recommended

Harvested by hand, the grapes are gently crushed before undergoing several hours of skin contact to maximise flavour extraction. The must is then fermented with indigenous yeasts in neutral, temperature-controlled tanks to preserve the fresh fruit character. Matured on fine lees for six months in concrete tanks for additional texture.

The label illustration is eye-catching. You may see the full drawing on their Instagram here. The vineyard of this Cuvée is located on the extreme north of the island and they are really near a forest where they sometimes meet the “wonderful deer from Corsica. In central Corsica the reintroduction of deer is a success, .. one is regularly seen in a wood adjacent to the estate... and as we love  @leslie_orsatti drawings ... We asked him to draw this for us…”

Our latest Beer of the Week, the impressive lil’ sibling of the Big Bangin’

Beer of the Week w/e 20.01.24

Rye River Lil’ Banging Session IPA, 3.8% ABV, 500 ml bottle

Introducing the impressive lil’ sibling of the Big Bangin’

This is the little sibling of Rye River’s Big Bangin’, coming to you, unpasteurised and centrifuged, at a smooth and sessionable 3.8% ABV (compared to 7.1%).

Aromas are ripe fruits, with a touch of sweet sherbet. There’s a posse of hops in there, all from the USA, so no surprise to find the more exotic fruits (tangerine included) on the palate. But don’t worry - it is not over the top, nowhere near it.

The colour is a golden straw, with a hazy background. This little IPA is well-balanced. And Very Highly Recommended. Be sure to serve it chilled.

Geek Bits:

Malt: Caramalt, Malted oats, Maris Otter, Wheat.

Hops: Amarillo, Cascade, Columbus, El Dorado, Mosaic, Simcoe.

See 2024 Beer of the Week Index here

Quality, reliability and authenticity, as always, from Cantine Rallo.

Quality, reliability and authenticity,

 as always, from Cantine Rallo

Baglio Bianco Catarratto Terre Siciliane (IGP) 2021, 13% ABV 

RRP: €21.95 Greenman Wines, Le Caveau, Bradleys, 64 Wine.

The clue is in the colour - it is orange.

Orange and organic. Fermentation is natural, without adding yeast. Catarratto wines are fragrant and crisp and so is this one. 

The aromas speak of apples. It is amazingly flavourful, apple there again but also hints of marmalade and ginger. And apples, of the cider variety, make an appearance as it finishes dry and lip-smacking. This is a deliciously drinkable Sicilian Orange wine.

And that colour, a mix of amber and orange, comes from the fact that it receives a 3-day skin maceration. Le Caveau: "This is a fantastic introduction to ‘orange’ wines both from a flavour and a pricing point-of-view. …This would be brilliant with free-range pork rib with apple sauce, with a herby roasted chicken or with cheeses such as Durrus….It is unfined and unfiltered and has zero added sulphur. “

It is very adaptable and food-friendly; it'll go well with all sorts of pasta dishes and spicy foods

Very Highly Recommended.

The history of the Cantine Rallo wine estate started in 1860 and Rallo was synonymous with quality, reliability and authenticity… Since 2010 Rallo wines are “produced and bottled at their origin by the grower”. Fine wines, organically grown in a certified organic agriculture, they represent the best and most typical of the cultivars of Western Sicily. The results are evident in the fragrant, crisp Catarratto and the perfumed, fresh Nero d'Avola.

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Check my growing list of top wines

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Check out my Good Value Wine List here

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Bianco is certainly a bit of a misnomer here as this is most definitely an orange wine, a cloudy deep amber in colour, unfined and unfiltered. Orange wines also have a higher level of tannins, more like red wines, and indeed can match foods where previously red would have been the only choice. Catarratto, by the way, is Sicily’s, and Italy’s, most popular white wine grape.

* Our next Le Caveau wine will be the Nero D’Avola from the same producer! Looking forward to that.

A special beer! Chimay Brown Ale

 Une bière spéciale

Chimay Brown Ale, 7% ABV, 330 ml bottle Bradleys

The Authentic Trappist Product label certifies that this Belgian ale is brewed in a Trappist abbey and that the majority of sales income is intended for social aid. Chimay Red was brewed for the first time in 1862. Chimay is the best-known of the Trappist Breweries. Did you know that their brewers "surprisingly prefer American hops" and "interestingly, it uses not whole hops but extract"? (Source for quote:The Beer Bible by Jeff Alworth).

The Chimay Red, a brown ale, gets its name from the colour of the label. The colour of the beer is a multi-hued copper-tinted brown (from copper to deep ruby) with a tan head that sinks down slowly to a thin disc.

Malty aromas, fruity and toasted, invite you onto the palette where you meet them again in the flavours. Fruits such as orange, peach and apricot now meld with sweet honey, nougat and baguette from the malt. And yet, there’s a delightful balance from first to last, minerality, aromas and flavours all combining to bring a super conclusion as the aftertaste lingers.

The perfect pairing for the Chimay Red is with Chimay cheeses but particularly with the Grand Chimay. You'll probably find it easier to get your hands on the likes of Gubbeen, Durrus or Wicklow Bawn.

Trappist beers are among those that age gracefully. Brew Dog's Great Beer for the People list three requirements: high ABV, low hops, and bottle conditioned. Trappist beers tick those boxes and “they get softer, sweeter and fruitier.  …… They age beautifully.”

Ingredients: water, barley malt, sugar, wheat starch, hop, spices, yeast, 

CORK INTERNATIONAL HOTEL TEAMS UP WITH LOCAL SUPPLIERS

CORK INTERNATIONAL HOTEL TEAMS UP WITH LOCAL SUPPLIERS

The Cork International Hotel is highlighting the importance of supporting local producers with the launch of its new menu.  

Head Chef Paul Ryan and his team have been inspired by the incredible diversity and quality of produce in Cork and its surrounding counties.  They have given these fresh local ingredients a global twist when creating the dishes that will be served in the hotel’s restaurant, The New Yorker (open 12 noon to 9.30pm) for lunch and dinner.

The menu also includes a map highlighting where the food suppliers are located including McCarthy Meats in Cork City, Ardsallagh Goats Cheese in Carrigtwohill, Glenmar Seafood in Union Hall and Gubbeen Farm Cheese in West Cork. And don't forget the Munster Cheese Platter.

Eoghan Murphy, General Manager of the Cork International Hotel said; “We are delighted to introduce our new menu at The New Yorker, where we celebrate the delectable produce that our local communities have to offer. Our team of dedicated chefs have designed a menu that uses the diverse and vibrant flavours of Cork and its neighbouring areas to bring delicious dishes to all our customers.  We are lucky to have the very best meat, fish, dairy and vegetables right on our doorstep and our team has given these ingredients an international flair to keep the menu exciting and fresh.”

The new menus can be found at https://www.corkinternationalairporthotel.com/dining/new-yorker/

Seductive and spicy, this Nero D’Avola will put a spell on you.

Seductive and spicy, this Nero D’Avola will put a spell on you.

Baglio Antico Nero D’Avola Sicilia (DOP) 2020, 13% ABV.

RRP €21.95. Stockists: Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

This full-bodied, ripe and juicy red from the sun-drenched Italian island of Sicily is produced from the island’s most important and most loved red wine grape Nero D’Avola. Our unoaked and organic wine is a terrific example of the variety.

The colour is a deep red. Dark berries and a little spice on the nose follow on to the palate. Packed with ripe black cherry fruit and hints of pepper, the supple wine has an immediately noticeable and deliciously refreshing acidity. A bright, fresh, modern wine, with a dry finish, it is an easy drinker for sure.

Highly Recommended.

The Baglio Rosso is 100% Nero d’Avola from certified organic vineyards. Short maceration of a week of whole bunch (40%) and destemmed (60%) grapes. Wild yeast, no sulphur, no fining, no filtration. It has been praised for its excellent balance. Serve at 14-16 °C with Red meat, game, and mature cheeses.

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Check my growing list of top wines

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Check out my Good Value Wine List here

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A baglio is a courtyard at the centre of a walled, fortified estate, typical of rural Sicily. The history of the Cantine Rallo wine estate started in 1860 and Rallo was synonymous with quality, reliability and authenticity. At the end of the 90s, the Vesco family turned Cantine Rallo into a modern estate, producing wines organically. Andrea Vesco runs the winery, with expert commitment, personally and meticulously attending to all the stages of production from the cultivation of the grapes to the final bottling,.

The dark-skinned grape has a long history in Sicily and takes its name from the town of Avola. Much of that history though saw the grape used in blends in the island and on the mainland. Over the last few decades, there has been, thanks to producers such as the Vesco family, an upward turn for Nero D’Avola and it is now common to find it produced as a varietal wine. 

Blarney Castle Gardens Jan 2024

Blarney Castle Gardens

14.01.2024

Daffodils

A lonely snowdrop

Eye in the sky. A patient heron

A terrific Picpoul from where dinosaurs romanced

A terrific Picpoul from where dinosaurs romanced

Font-Mars Picpoul De Pinet (AP) 2022, 13% ABV.

This is a match made in heaven with a fresh plate of seafood

€16.95 Bradleys, North Main Street, Cork.

If Albarino isn’t available on a particular night, I’d go for a Picpoul. And vice versa!

“In the Languedoc region at Font-Mars, our vineyards are situated on soils, in which fossilised dinosaur eggs are found.”

No egg shells behind that lovely light gold colour, with green highlights. Aromas are tempting, floral (rose) and also fruits such as citrus and peach. The initial attack is lively, almost tart, but then more exotic fruit develops. Best served, between 12° and 14° C, with seafood and shellfish or as an aperitif. By the way, the  reason why Picpoul de Pinet is splendid with seafood and shellfish is that it neutralises the salt and iodine.

Retailers Bradleys like this one: This small domaine in Picpoul is showcasing just how delicious wines from this region can be when made with care and attention. The wine has a surprisingly good texture and very pretty fruit with just a touch of pear drop on the finish. This is a match made in heaven with a fresh plate of seafood.

Picpoul is an ancient grape but the disease Phylloxera almost did for it until the French discovered it could thrive on sandy soil. Hence its renaissance in the Languedoc. It is no surprise, then, that Picpoul is to be found in coastal vineyards such as those which surround Pinet and the Etang de Thau (lots of oysters here, conveniently!), just west of Montpellier.

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Check my growing list of top wines

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Check out my Good Value Wine List here

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The Font-Mars winemaker is Jean-Baptiste de Clock: “Our wines express this Mediterranean nature perfectly, protected by a family, whose history is intimately bound to the vineyard and wine since 1679, and to the Languedoc region since 1864.”

Reckon they know what they are doing. Very Highly Recommended.

By the way, if I couldn't get my hands on an Albarino on a particular night, I’d go for a Picpoul. And vice versa!

Pedro Parra's delighful blend of Pais and Cinsault from Chile's Itata

Pedro Parra's delightful blend of Pais and Cinsault from Chile's Itata

Pedro Parra Pencoplitano Itata Chile 2019, 12.5% ABV 

RRP €28.95. Stockists include The Cinnamon Cottage and JJ O’Driscoll Superstore Ballinlough

This blend of Pais and Cinsault from Pedro Parra is a delightful and refreshing wine. It's light red and has a distinctive spice on the nose and palate. The tannins are fine and the acidity is vibrant. 

Pedro is a renowned soil and vineyard mapping expert always seeking the best soils for a variety. He has had much success with Cinsault. The other grape here, Pais (Mission in North America), is important in Chilean wine history, being the first Old World grape brought to the country.

Don’t be afraid to chill this a little, especially in summertime. There was a little sediment in my bottle, so you may wish to decant.

Highly Recommended.

Beer of the Week. "a great treat for beer lovers". Elbow Lane Lager

Beer of the Week 

Elbow Lane Elbow Lager, 4.4% ABV.

"a great treat for beer lovers"

You smell it (slight aromas of vanilla and of the grassy hops). You taste it. And you know you have a top-notch European-style lager in your hand. You’re doubly blessed if, at the same time, you are about to start a meal in Cork’s Elbow Lane Smokehouse. This is where the beers are produced with the food in mind!

The Elbow Lager is particularly refreshing and owes its flavour to Pilsner and Munich malts and "Noble" hop varieties imported from Germany and Czechia (though they have begun to use Irish malts). 

It will complement most lighter dishes, a great treat for beer lovers. The unfiltered lager has a slight haze and the process takes 6 weeks overall. 

Very Highly Recommended

A wine “with quite a strong character”, “very different to Soave”. Guerrieri Rizzardi's Lugana

Guerrieri Rizzardi Lugana (DOC) 2022, 13.5%

€19.95 O’Briens Wine

A wine “with quite a strong character”, “very different to Soave”.

Lugana is one of Italy’s classic white wines and this one, vibrant and dry, comes from the award-winning Rizzardi family winery in the Veneto. The Trebbiano grapes for the wine are sourced from twenty-five-year-old vines from several vineyards in Peschiera del Garda. A lively and refreshing wine, with stone fruits and blossom aromas, it’s a great wine to pair with all sorts of seafood – try it with prawns or even sushi.

Yet Count Guiuseppe Rizzardi, during a pre-Christmas Zoom tasting, emphasised that it matches very well with freshwater fish (such as trout). “It is produced on the (breezy) southern shores of Lake Garda” and ‘is enjoyed very much locally”. He said it is just the 3rd vintage of this wine which has “quite a strong character”, “very different to Soave”.

Smoked salmon was also mentioned as a pairing and we tried it with a salad that featured the superb hot smoked salmon from Hederman’s and it worked very well indeed. Its “amazing freshness…without being too acidic…” enhances its role when used as an aperitif or just on its own.

Highly Recommended