Harbourside walk before breakfast at Perry Street in Ringaskiddy

 Harbourside walk before breakfast in Ringaskiddy

I had something of a re-boot of normal activity on a cold sunny morning last week, combining a brisk walk at the People’s Park in Ringaskiddy and a warming breakfast at the busy Perry Street Cafe in the village.

Cobh

The park is on Haulbowline Island. Though there are a few loops that you may take to add to the main tarmac path, it is a short enough stroll - nothing to stop you from a repeat of course! But it has superb views over Cork Harbour in general and towards the colourful terraces of Cobh in particular.

Close to the entrance, you’ll see the Blacksmith's Hammer that "is preserved in honour of all who worked in the former steelworks".

 

Quite a large well laid out parking area is available to walkers and there are also toilets there. The coffee shop that was here previously is no longer open but you will find sustenance in the nearby village

Finding parking outside the Perry Street cafe isn't that easy, not on the day of our visit. The ground floor cafe, spread over two adjoining open-plan rooms, serves breakfast until 11.45 am and lunch (from noon until 4.00 pm).

Breakfast was enjoyed by our little group: four adults and one hungry baby. Despite the fact it looked packed at first glance, they found us a very suitable table indeed with room to add a baby seat at one end.

The breakfast is divided along the usual lines, more or less, of Savoury, Eggs and Sweet. Under Savoury, they offer three versions of the Full Irish: Super Perry, Full Perry and Half Perry. One of us enjoyed the full. 

The Morrocan Breakfast caught my eye, but instead, I picked the Pancakes with Bacon and Maple Syrup while CL had the Berry Compote and Cream version, each quite satisfactory. Our fourth adult had the Granola with layered toasted nuts, dried fruits, oats, honey, a seasonal compote and organic natural yoghurt.

Prices were more or less average though €3.60 for two slices of toast for the baby raised an eyebrow or two! The welcome was warm and the service was friendly and good all through.

Blacksmith's hammer 

#Cobh

#PerryStreet

#Ringaskiddy

#PeoplesPark

#CorkHarbour

Montepulciano makes some of the world's favourite wines.

Montepulciano makes some of the world's favourite wines.

ERA Montepulciano D’Abruzzo (DOC) 2020, 13% ABV

€14.50. Stockists include: Scally's Supervalu, Clonakilty/ The Olive Branch, Clonakilty/ Organico, Bantry/ Taste, Castletownbere/ Harrington's, Ardgroom/ Quay Co. Op/ Toonsbridge Dairy, Macroom & Dublin/ Little Green Grocer, Kilkenny/ The Connemara Hamper, Clifden/ Mortons of Galway/ The Grainey, Scarriff / Mary Pawle

Montepulciano is one of the world’s favourite wines. And not just because many of us can actually pronounce the name. Most of us also know that this one is a Montepulciano from Abruzzo as the same style is common around Italy, eg Barbera D’Alba ( Barbera from Alba) and also Brunello di Montalcino (Brunello from Montalcino)

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It is organic and comes in an intense ruby-red robe. On the palate, you’ll notice mostly ripe red and dark berried fruit with spice and just about noticeable tannins. Acidity enough to balance and more depth than you might imagine from such a popular grape.

Highly Recommended.

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The Cantine Volpi website recommends matching “with red meat stews and roasts, poultry and tasty (?) dishes”. I had a bar of Irish made Nibbed organic chocolate bark (75%), the one with orange and maple and activated walnuts. Nibbed says it goes well with red wine and it does indeed, even with the orange. So there’s a handy double for you! 

Cantine Volpi explain the label: “ERA, a historical period marked by historical events, has for been the first stage of the awareness of the wonderful environment in which we live and the powerful desire to protect and deserve it for future generations, in the way it has been.” 

Delightful Occhipinti from lands caressed by the Mediterranean.

Delightful Occhipinti from lands caressed by the Mediterranean.

Occhipinti SP68 Rosso Terre Siciliane (IGT) 2022, 11% ABV

RRP: €29.95.  Stockists: Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

This still, dry red wine (a blend of Frappato 70% Nero D'Avola 30%) is made by Arianna Occhipinti in the south-east corner of the Italian Island of Sicily

It has a bright and inviting ruby colour (reminiscent of Pinot Noir or Gamay). Aromas are gentle, with red fruits like wild cherries and raspberries, also floral notes, and herbal too.  Plum and cherry and berry again in the strikingly delightful and stimulating progress on the palate. There is fine acidity and soft tannins in a beautiful easy-drinking wine.  

Very Highly Recommended.

A delightful wine to sip and matches well with grilled meats, fish, roasted veg, and caramelised onions. Serve at 16-18° C.

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The SP68 is the name of the main road that passes near to Arianna’s home town of Vittoria….it lies in the far south of Sicily just to the west of Ragusa. It is here that she has been making wine for the past ten years under the tutelage of her uncle, Giusto Occhipinti, who owns and runs the famous COS estate.

There is no rush either in the vineyard or the winery, ample time is allowed. “Biodiversity is the central theme of our farm. Contributing to maintaining this balance between plants, animals, small organisms and nature as a whole is our goal. We feel like custodians of this place in the south of Sicily, among its red sands, limestone and dry stone walls. Lands that look and listen to the Mediterranean. We believe in the dialogue between different crops as has always been done in our agricultural tradition.”  

So, not just wine when you visit: here you may buy fruit, jam, juices, flour, olive oil, vegetables, even Grappa!

Interestingly, that southeast corner of the island is more southerly than the northern tip of Africa’s Tunisia. Indeed, Arianna’s town of Vittoria is more or less level with the city of Tunis, with Vittoria at 36.95 degrees, Tunis at 36.80. Vittoria though is certainly more southerly than the Tunisian seaside city of Bizerte, the northernmost city in Africa, with a latitude of 37.27. Cork, as you know, is at 51.89.

Tradition, craftsmanship and the magic of time give Ramōn Bilbao's Gran Reserva its heart and soul. One to savour for years to come.

Tradition, craft and the magic of time give Ramōn Bilbao's Gran Reserva its heart and soul. One to savour for years to come.

Ramōn Bilbao Gran Reserva Rioja (DOC) 2015, 14%

 

€24.00 in Dunnes Stores.

In the late 19th century, when phylloxera struck in France, Haro was one of the first towns that French merchants called to, looking for replacement wines. The little town prospered and was the second Spanish town to get electricity - the first was Jerez. As you can see, the Spanish appreciate their wines!

Some years back, I arrived in Haro and set the Sat-Nav for a well-known winery. But the Sat Nav failed on a few occasions perhaps because there were so many bodegas in the small town. It got close to the “target” and then lost its bearings completely. So, after a few attempts, I abandoned my search and went general. “Any bodega will do. I’m going to stop at the next one we see”, I declared. And I followed my own advice, stopped at Tondonio and, just across the road, also visited their neighbour Rioja Alta (the bodega, not the actual area). Bodegas Muga also has a bodega here.

Where to now? On the outskirts of Haro.

 

You can't go wrong in Haro. Just stop and a bodega will be waiting for you. Of course, Ramōn Bilbao (noted by the World Wine Atlas as a top Tempranillo producer) is also in town, imparting its own style to the famous wines of Rioja. And this Grand Rreserva is a superb example of the style and the quality.

“A wine which is only produced in excellent vintages and which in its soul holds the tradition, craftsmanship and magic of time,” is the confident assertion from the producers. The colour is a mid-ruby, somewhat lighter at the rim. Aromas are smooth and fruity (plums and blackberries to the fore). 

And that amazing smoothness is also prominent in the mouth as the time (30 months, the requirement is six)) in the oak has its impact with vanilla, balsamic and spicy now joining the aromatics. It feels silky with a refreshing acidity and an excellent volume as this big grown-up and rounded wine moves to a long and lingering finish. In addition to the time in oak, it spends another 36 months in bottle in their underground wine cellar in total stillness and darkness.

Very Highly Recommended.

It is the perfect match for red meat, mature cheeses, barbecues and game dishes. Serve at 17-18 degrees.

What of the future at Ramōn Bilbao? Here’s what chief winemaker Rodolfo Bastida says:  “For Ramón Bilbao sustainability is a priority; we are strengthening our action plan in a programme for the coming years as a response to climate change. A step forward on the path to becoming a conscious company and taking responsibility for the impact we leave on the planet”.

“‘Since 2017, we have belonged to the Wineries for Climate Protection programme, the first and only specific certification for the wine sector with regard to environmental sustainability backed by the FEV (Spanish Wine Federation). In addition, we were the first winery in Spain to also certify our vineyard.”

They are indeed doing quite a lot in sustainability and you may see more, much more, on their website https://bodegasramonbilbao.com/en/sustainability/

Rioja red wine stickers:

The green label (cosecha) indicates less than one year in oak, less than one in bottle.

The red label (crianza) indicates 1 year in oak, 1 in bottle.

The burgundy (reserva) indicates 1 year in oak, 2 in bottle.

The royal blue (gran reserva) indicates 2 years in oak, three years in bottle.

Irish Produce Shines in Christmas Food and Drink

 Irish Produce Shines in Christmas Food and Drink

James Whelan’s Outstanding Heritage Cure Ham

Conversation slowed around the Christmas table, a sure sign that the diners were enjoying themselves. The focus of our taste buds was the magnificent Heritage Cure Low and Slow Roasting Ham (from Clonmel butcher James Whelan), a 3-Star Great Taste winner whose judges praised its “wonderfully inviting, moist, pink slices”. In this house, we all agree.

Christmas Cake

Took the German option this year, as we did in 2022, and once again enjoyed the Stollen (above) that we bought from local baker Angela (Ryes and Shine). It got a unanimous thumbs up here, especially when paired with the Rizzardi Prosecco from O’Briens Wine.

Porter

Two of my favourite porters, Kinnegar’s Yannaroddy 4.8% ABV, and West Kerry’s Carrig Dhubh (6.00% ABV) featured in a mini-porter session, more of a delicious duet than a duel.

Festival Ales

A  pair of stalwart Cork breweries produced our ales. Kinsale KPA, by Blacks, has long been a favourite and, a few years ago, we added the ales of Elbow Lane to the shortlist. Happy to have them again this year! The Elbow Pale Ale has a traditional English character (with malt prominent), is smooth and refreshing and a great match with food.

Wine

Adega Cachi Cachín Peza do Rei Ríbera Sacra (DO) 2021 was my favourite of the festival. A vineyard that has profited from being admired by ex-US President Barrack Obama, the wine is balanced, soft easy-drinking with a long refreshing finish. Find it at Le Caveau stockists.

Christmas Cheese

Hegarty's Friesians

The Grubb family in Tipperary produce Cashel Blue, one of the great blues. Blue for sure but wrapped in that marvellous irresistible creaminess from the well-watered grass of the area. No wonder it is so popular in Ireland. Indeed, it is sold all over the world including in dozens of outlets in France (mainly in Paris). Information on stockists here.

Whitechurch village is just a few miles north of Cork City and it is here you’ll find Hegarty’s farm and Dan’s herd of Friesians. While Hegharty’s are not confined to cheddar, it is indeed this magnificent cheese that has been snapped up by restaurants and retail customers alike over the past 20 years or so. Our wedge for Christmas tells us that it is as delicious as ever!

Christmas Juice

Apple Farm Sparkling Apple Juice has long been regarded as a delightful drink in this quarter. With time running out before the big day, we ordered a case direct from the Apple Farm and made good use of it, even using the juice as a substitute for sparkling wine (especially for drivers!).

And there was a bonus. Con Traas of the Apple Farm threw in a pack or three of his Slow-dried Irish Elstar Apple Crisps, another delicious product from Tipperary. Actually, quite a few Tipp stars are in this year’s festival line-up

Turkish Delight and Christmas Chocolate

Hadji Bey, once produced in Cork’s MacCurtain Street, is still a favourite in the city. And beyond. Now made in Kildare, it is widely available and, thanks to Bradleys in North Main Street, we enjoyed the traditional original Rose gift box! Bradley’s was also the source for a selection box of delightful chocolates by Chez Emily, an Irish Belgian Chocolatier based in Dublin, another sweet highlight

Fish

Hederman Smoked Salmon, in two different ways. One evening, we enjoyed the Hot Smoked version and another the Beech Wood smoked, both top class as we’ve come to expect from the Belvelly maestro.

Speaking of Hederman, have you ever used their smoked chilli flakes? Quite a few are flummoxed when coming across these for the first time but they are versatile and can be used with eggs (scrambled or otherwise), in soups and stews and in pasta dishes. We used them with a melted Camembert - see the BBC Good Food recipe here. 

Daily Bread

The Mayfield Bloomer, by local baker Angela (Ryes and Shine), was our daily bread. By the way, did you know Angela also does a loaf version of the popular bloomer? It has a softer crust than the original (ideal for those of us whose teeth aren’t as good as they used to be!).

Stained glass window at Pearse Lyons Distillery Dublin.

Kinsale Gin - making a mark!

Season’s Spirits

  Pearse Lyons Single Malt Whiskey (5-Years) again stepped up to the mark for Christmas. Something amazingly clean about it -  the crispness of the fruit, the toast of the oak, a waft of pepper, and the clove notes, from the to lingering finish. Spice and citrus also feature in the aromas and the malt too of course.

  Kinsale Gin was another welcome spirit. This popular small-batch gin, is produced by the Kinsale Spirit Company. They hand-pick local botanicals “to produce complete perfection… Every one of our treasured 21 botanicals have been carefully chosen..”. And it shows in the aromas, floral, citrus and essential juniper and is perfectly balanced on the palate.

Didier’s Dedication Pays Off With Quality Wines Like This Delicious Fleurie

Didier’s Dedication Pays Off With Quality Wines Like This Delicious Fleurie

Domaine Didier Desvignes Fleurie (AC) 2021, 13.5%.

RRP: €23.95. Stockists: Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

“Everything I do both in vinegrowing and winemaking, aims at allowing nature and terroir to express themselves to the full. I choose traditional methods, including tilling between the rows, to guarantee the flavours in this wine.” 

Desvignes believes that great wines are produced from healthy and mature grapes. The Gamay thrives on pink granite soils and that is exactly what you find in Desvignes' Fleurie vineyards

The wine itself has more or less the usual light ruby colour. Aromas, floral and fruity, are also pretty much as expected. On the palate, the purity of the ripe red berry flavours is striking and it continues silky and elegant through a long finish. It is perfect with leg of lamb, poultry and grilled meat. Serve at 13°C (55°F).

This light and enjoyable wine is Very Highly Recommended

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Check my  list of top wines for 2023

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Check out my Good Value Wine List here

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The Desvignes family has been dedicated to the vines for six generations. Manual harvest and selection allied with respect for the equilibrium of the vines and the soil by treatment with organic manures creates wines, which express a balance between the aromatic richness of the grape variety and natural sugars and acidity. Traditional vinification techniques reflect the quality and character of each parcel of grapes.

Vinegrower-winemaker to the core, today it is Didier Desvignes’ turn to manage the family estate that has been active for over a century. They produce a wide range of Beaujolais appellations: Morgon, Brouilly, Moulin-à-Vent, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Beaujolais-Villages, and white and rosé Beaujolais-Villages. 

The first five names are cru wines in Beaujolais; the other five crus are St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Régnié, and Côte de Brouilly. Even though all crus are produced from the Gamay grape (a black grape with white juice), each one has its own personality, its own attractions. If you enjoy this Fleurie, why not try one from another cru, then another….

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