An incredible dining occasion at Greene's inspired by modern Peruvian cuisine. Rising young chef Jonathan introduced us to his country's food.

Chef Jonathan 

Incredible dining occasion at Greene's, inspired by modern Peruvian cuisine.

Rising young chef Jonathan introduced us to his country's food.

Pisco, more like a brandy than a whiskey (because it is made from grapes), is the spirit of South America’s wine regions. We got introduced to it at last week’s amazing Peruvian Food evening in Greene’s where our chef was none other than Jonathan Ordonez, a Peruvian himself and whose restaurant in Madrid, Paschi (based on the cuisine of his country), is proving to be quite a hit for the young chef. 

At Greene’s, Jonathan was joined by their Executive Head Chef Nicolas Alegre and they crafted an incredible evening inspired by modern Peruvian cuisine.

We had our first taste of the Pisco in the welcome cocktail and the last at the end of a rather special evening with some Pisco jelly, a rather, livelier jelly than usual! In between, we had nibbles and plates of outstanding food, colourful and flavourful. And that includes even the butter that came with the bread, a delicious blend of coriander, lime, ginger and butter of course!

Chef Nicolas

Before that, we had a selection of amuse-bouches and lots of fun with the two chefs. The first one that I sampled was the Razor Clams with Leche de Tigre Chifera; we were up and running as that mouthful inspired confidence for the evening.

Perhaps the most eye-catching early snack was the Bloody Mary with Pisco Sorbet, especially as it was cooled by a spray of icy nitro not that it cooled its flavours! Other bites we enjoyed were Stirie-fry Wagyu with Potato Espuma, Amazonian Crist and Andes Mountain Range.

There was no rush here and after the opening selection,m we were guided to our tables where selecting the wines was the first bite on the agenda. Greene’s have quite a list but I made it simpler by staying in South America,m beginning with an outstanding TerraMater Sauvignon Blanc from the Maipa Valley in Chile and ending with a superb Domaine Bousquet Malbec from Argentina. Nothing Peruvian on the list!

Starters

Potato Causa (with avocado and shrimp). 
Lovely starter with delicate texture and flavour

Smoke Hot Ceviche with yellow Peruvian green rice.
I've never had sea bass that tasted as well as this gem.
No wonder the ceviche is a hit at his restaurant in Madrid.

Mains

A superb piece of cod served with Northern Peruvian Green Rice.
The rice, by the way, is not green, but the name comes
from the coriander that is blended with it.
Coriander seems to be a favourite of the chefs here
 and popped up a few times

Peruvian Lamb Huatia with vegetables. 
Think slow-cooked in a closed pot. The result is
roughly similar to beef featherblade or Irish stew.
They use the neck of lamb and its own jus.
Tender and delicious, great Malbec match.

Sweet

Chocolate and Stout (with Lucuma gel and chocolate powder)
 in a fog of cold nitro that really enhanced the dessert!
The stout, by the way, was the local favourite Beamish!

More Pisco at the end, the jelly topped by flowers.

From a favourite table!

Fungi and falling leaves signal the arrival of Autumn at Blarney Castle Gardens

 Fungi and falling leaves signal arrival of Autumn at Blarney Castle Gardens  

Pics taken 14.01.2023

A domesticated grey cat, with a long bushy tail, perhaps a Maine Coon, works its way

along the leaf-strewn floor of the Fern Tree Garden

Leaves and fungi signal the arrival of Autumn.

Come for a walk

A fine seat, one of a pair, in the Poison Garden

Water falls down to pool in Fern Tree Garden

This little resting spot was completed
by the staff this year.

Dunmore House wins the Memorable Experience award at the Georgina Campbell Awards 2023

media release 

Dunmore House wins the Memorable Experience award at 

the Georgina Campbell Awards 2023

Dunmore House has won this year's Memorable Experience award at the Georgina Campbell Awards 2023. The independent Georgina Campbell Awards, Ireland's longest-running food & hospitality awards, celebrated 25 years this year and took place on Tuesday 10th October in Dublin.

The Georgina Campbell Guide is a family-run, hospitality guide, her awards are compiled based on anonymous visits, and this year focused particularly on “genuine hospitality, consistency, innovation and good value”.

Speaking after the ceremony Peter Barrett, General Manager at Dunmore House said, "We are thrilled with this award. It's a huge honour, and testament to our team who work so hard to create memorable experiences for all of our guests, so I'm really just accepting this award on their behalf and I'm delighted to do so."

Writing about Dunmore House, Ms Campbell said "The wonderful location is the biggest USP of course, but there’s plenty else to keep you here. Everything is always immaculate yet homely and the dining experience is outstanding in a lovely low-key way. Delicious home produce, just in from the clifftop gardens (really worth visiting) is cooked with finesse but allowed to be itself – a simple pleasure on a recent visit was a gorgeous side, a bowl of boiled potatoes which, we all agreed, were ‘a treat just like sweets’. And why are potatoes like this so rare now? All round, a highlight of our year. And it’s pet friendly too."

Perfectly nestled into its picturesque setting overlooking the water, against the stunning backdrop of Clonakilty Bay, Dunmore House is the perfect place to make memorable experiences with breezy Atlantic walks, great food in the Michelin recommended Adrift restaurant, beautiful beaches and handsome gardens. For booking please call 023 883 3352. 

For more visit dunmorehousehotel.ie

This Celeste Tempranillo, from the highest vineyard in Ribera Del Duero, is that little bit closer to wine heaven

This Celeste Tempranillo, from the highest vineyard in Ribera Del Duero, is that little bit closer to vinous heaven

Pago Del Cielo Celeste Crianza Ribera Del Duero (DO) 2019, 14.5% ABV, €19.95 Bradleys.

Made with the Tinto Fino variety, Celeste has been aged in French and American oak barrels for 12 months in the winery at 895 meters of altitude.

Tinto Fino is the name by which Tempranillo is known in the Wine region of Ribera Del Duero, a region in which it gets some great results. This Celeste has the familiar yet fascinating dark cherry robe, with a lighter rim. Intense concentrated aromas are a mix of fruit (dark berries), plus a whiff of cocoa and spice. The fruit and spice you meet again in a light and velvety palate. The wine is surprisingly easy-drinking with an elegant and pleasing finish.

Very Highly Recommended.

The winery, owned by the Torres family, is well pleased: “Celeste Crianza is an opulent, fruit-filled, full-bodied wine with intense colour that possesses the freshness, passion, and intensity of a star-filled night. This wine is aged for 12 months in French and American oak barrels and 12 months in the bottle. The flagship wine from the Pago del Cielo winery is one of DO Ribera del Duero’s most internationally famous wines.”

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Check my growing list of top wines for 2023

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Check out my Good Value Wine List here

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I mentioned the altitude of the winery in the opening sentence and there’s a good reason. Torres again: “In Ribera del Duero, the winery is located in Fompedraza at 895 metres above sea level, the highest elevation in the DO. This privileged location, with its spectacular landscape, boasts the ideal climate for making intensely aromatic red wines….it is one of the highest vineyards in the northern hemisphere, a high-altitude, complex land whose harsh climate produces exceptionally high-quality grapes.”

Given its smooth, silky tannins and fruit concentration, the wine pairs beautifully with all kinds of red meat, chorizo, and aged cheeses. Serve at 14–16ºC.

Pago Del Cielo, a Torres company, is a wine project that spans two privileged Spanish wine regions steeped in tradition, committed to quality, and with a deep passion for winemaking – Ribera del Duero and Rueda. Ribera del Duero is located in the Meseta Central or central plateau of the Iberian Peninsula.

Taking the opportunity here to repeat a few lines I used when reviewing the same company’s excellent Verdejo a few weeks back.

The more we care about the earth, the better our wine. That is the Torres motto that I first heard in 2015 and it was underlined in this Verdejo. So whether it is improving sustainability (turning vine cuttings into a source of energy), using solar panels or organic viticulture or their long-time commitment to fair trade, Torres contribute wherever they are, from Chile to California to Catalonia. The earth could do with more families, more companies like this.

Just a few hints of Autumn as October begins in Blarney Castle Gardens.

 Just a few hints of Autumn as October begins in Blarney Castle Gardens

(pics 2nd Oct '23)

Pips of the robust thorny Rosa Moyesi (I think!!!)

Much of this tree is still green.

Quercus Rubra (Red Oak) above and below.

Rhus leaves turning

Blooming time for these Cyclamen, hidden away in a shady corner.

Indian Pokeweed in the Poison Garden.
More on its dangers here via Mt Sinai Hospital

All together now, munch!

In the Carnivorous garden.

CorkBillyBeers #48. Craft with Bullhouse, Rascals, Lough Gill and Wicklow Wolf.

CorkBillyBeers #48

Craft with Bullhouse, Rascals, Lough Gill and Wicklow Wolf.

Nothing over 5% ABV in this foursome

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Bullhouse Frank The Tank Hazy IPA, 5.0% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

Mosaic makes the difference! 

“The Fruity Hop That Changed Craft Beer.”

Colour of this Belfast-brewed IPA is pale, more or less lemon, and it is indeed hazy, like a foggy night on the docks. Frank seems quite the character and is not shy about promoting itself: "Once it hits your lips, it's so good!” It is that extra pale base “to showcase the aromatic, tropical and stonefruit flavours of our Mosaic DDH”.

No kidding with Frank. It is indeed pretty damn good, packed with just the one hop Mosaic and giving up slightly sweet flavours of tropical fruit and a whole lot of hoppy backbone in a complex mouthfeel. Good refreshing finish also.

Bullhouse is emerging, in this house at least, as a brewery to note and Frank the Tank’s IPA is Very Highly Recommended.

California-based Kegerator, well known in home brewing in the US, say their aim is “To provide beer aficionados with the best selection of dispensers, brewing supplies, and home bar accessories.”

They know their hops. The Mosaic hops that Bullhouse have used here - it is just over 10 years old -  is highlighted by Kegerator who call it “The Fruity Hop Variety That Changed Craft Beer.”

“The hop variety was an instant hit and, according to For the Love of Hops by Stan Hieronymus, the variety gained a reputation even before it was named or fully released onto the craft brewing scene in 2012.

The name Mosaic was given to the variety because of the complex and broad aromas it imparts. This complex profile is backed by a clean bittering, which makes it especially remarkable in single hop ales.”

They confirm that it is as versatile as Bullhouse indicate: “Mosaic hops cover all three corners of hop usage pretty well. A fact that becomes obvious when you see the amount of single-hopped IPAs being churned out with this variety. It could also be used in the aroma and flavour department backed by a clean bittering hop like Magnum or Galena. Because of its fruitiness, Mosaic plays well with other fruity or citrusy hops.”

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Rascals Session IPA, 4.4%% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

This Session IPA is one of the brewery’s Outbreak Series,  one of “three seriously classy IPAs, each with a particular inspiration”..…

And this is “blissfully citrus and delightfully tropical”. “At 4.4% we're making it an easy-going beer to be sipped, shared and ideal for any bag-of-cans enthusiast: spruce up your sesh with our Session IPA!”

The colour is pale, more or less lemon, with a slight haze. Sweet tropical fruits (mango, lychee, passion fruit) in the aromas. Flavours are quite complex, a blend of floral, tropical, fruity, and earthy characteristics. But it never gets to cross to the sweet side, the balance provided by the hops’ bittering qualities. 

A small ABV yes but a serious session contender. Nice bit of work from the Rascal brewers.

And they know it! “This beer really benefits from the flavour and aroma intensity of using hop oils in the brew. There’s an instant ‘wow factor’ the minute you get a nose – and mouth – full of what’s on offer. There’s a crisp green grape and ripe lime finish, making our Session IPA a proper hoppy belter.”

Can’t argue with that. Very Highly Recommended.

Hops used were Citra T90, Galaxy and Mosaic.

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Lough Gill Shaka Session IPA 3.8% ABV, 440 ml can No 21 Midleton

This lemon-coloured IPA comes from the excellent Lough Gill Brewery in Sligo. It is murky, with a soft white head and, at 3.8% ABV, slips comfortably under the session bar. Aromas are moderate, are of the tropical kind and very pleasant. And so it continues on the palate with a smooth citrus flavour and a mouthfeel that “has been amped up with the addition of oats and Dextrin malts”. 

Another well-balanced beer with a refreshing finish and well suited to a session.

Highly Recommended.

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Wicklow Wolf Raindrop, 0.5% ABV, 330 ml can No 21 Midleton

“Introducing 'Raindrop 0.5', number 39 in our Endangered Species series. A beer inspired by our Mixed Berry Sour, Raindrop - our brewers were excited to brew a non-alcoholic version of our favourite sour.”

This 0.5% Raindrop comes in an unmissable vibrant red colour. Aromas are fruity, sweetly so. No lessening of the fruit on the palate but here there’s a sour backbone. But it is very refreshing indeed, this mix of jam-packed flavours of raspberries, blackberries and blueberries.

One of the more interesting non-alcoholic beers on the market and that includes the imports. But, there’s always a but, this is a limited edition, one of Wicklow’s endangered species. Worth a try if you can get your hands on one, or more than one.

Alsace Makes Pinot Gris Tick. Just ask Jean Trimbach!

Jean's everyday wine!

Alsace Makes Pinot Gris Tick. 

Just ask Jean Trimbach!

Trimbach Pinot Gris Réserve Alsace (AC) 2017, 14% ABV

(c. €27.00)

For 13 generations, beginning in 1626, Maison Trimbach in Ribeauvillé, in the heart of Alsace, has devoted all its resources to producing great Alsace wines. This is one of them based on one of their remarkable Alsace grape varieties, the Pinot Gris. Delicious when young, these reach their finest expressions after some years of ageing.

 

It has a beautiful light gold colour. Aromas are gentle, a mix of floral and fruit (peaches, pears) and flowers. It is full-bodied with a gorgeous fruity palate, subtle spices, and a long finish. A generous wine, an ideal partner at the table. Suggested pairings include terrines, shellfish, oily fish, smoked fish, in sauce and raw, sushi, white meats, sweetbreads, mushrooms, spicy and aromatic dishes, Asian cuisine … Versatile, isn’t it?

Very Highly Recommended.

At a Kinsale tasting this year, Jean Trimbach (right) started with the 2018 vintage of this Pinot Gris Reserve. He was at pains to emphasise that this is a French grape, distinct from Pinot Grigio!

The grape now known in Alsace as Pinot Gris is thought to have originated in the Burgundy region of France. It is a colour mutation of Pinot Noir, and has been known since the Middle Ages. For centuries, it was called Tokay d’Alsace In Alsace until in relatively recent times, Hungary and the EU put an end to that.

Grapes & Wines indicates that Pinot Gris can produce really good wines in many countries “but I still go back to Alsace to see what makes it tick” and points the finger at the climate. in Alsace where “long hang times are possible; you can pick late for dry or off-dry, and even later for sweet ones.”

In Germany, Pinot Gris is known as Grauburgunder. It is a popular grape in the Baden region and, just like Alsace, is used to make a variety of wines, from dry to sweet.

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Check my growing list of top wines for 2023

*************

Check out my Good Value Wine List here

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Jean Trimbach’s remarks on his Pinot Gris being a French grape rather than an Italian one is made with a smile but the popularity of the Italian wine must still be irksome to some degree.

Jean is rarely slow to push the cause of Alsace in the wider world. And he also had a crack at Burgundy in Kinsale. Jean, who has been in this sales/marketing role since 1985, is always quick to point to the advantages that Alsace has, particularly when it comes to the more famous French region. “We have more Grand Cru wines than Burgundy because they have no granite, no volcanic, no slate… We have them all!” That big smile followed!

Trimbach wines are widely available in Ireland. I don't have a list of stockists for this but Dublin's 64 Wine has it.

The Michelin Key is coming. A Special Distinction For Hotels

press release

The MICHELIN Guide celebrates the most remarkable hotels in the world, by creating a special distinction: 

The MICHELIN Key

The MICHELIN Guide will be awarding exceptional hotels with the MICHELIN Key in future

 

 

• The MICHELIN Guide teams have selected more than 5,000 hotels and accommodations throughout the world,
  all available for booking on guide.michelin.com and the Guide mobile application
• With this new selection, The MICHELIN Guide creates the MICHELIN Key, a special distinction that
  highlights the establishments offering the most exceptional hotel experiences
• These hotels and accommodations will receive the MICHELIN Key beginning in 2024

As it does for restaurants, The MICHELIN Guide intends on independently recommending hotels that constitute true destinations. After four years of work, The MICHELIN Guide now proposes a new selection of more than 5,000 remarkable hotels in 120 countries.

In an industry saturated with questionably trustworthy endorsements, the MICHELIN Guide offers its expertise to travellers to guide them towards only the very best experiences. In response to today’s hyper-standardisation of accommodation (in terms of design, interior decoration, special touches, and so on), The MICHELIN Guide will appeal to travellers’ emotions by orienting them towards bold establishments that excel in every way: architectural approaches, professional know-how, and the existence of a true, identifiable personality. 

The new MICHELIN Guide selection recommends more than 5,000 hotels throughout 120 countries in a broad range of prices and styles. The selection is based on five criteria:

1. A destination unto itself: the hotel contributes to the local experience;
2. Excellence in interior design and architecture;
3. Individuality, reflecting personality and authenticity;
4. Quality and consistency in service, comfort and maintenance;
5. Consistency between the level of experience and the price paid.

Determined independently from all existing labels and free of any pre-established quotas, this hotel selection addresses those travellers who already trust The MICHELIN Guide and all those who seek verified, well-informed advice. 

With this new approach to hotels, The MICHELIN Guide has three objectives:

• To enable travellers to precede or follow a gourmet experience with a memorable hotel stay.
• To guide guests towards accommodations of character that offer much more than just a room for the night.
• To offer travellers the opportunity to choose, book, and share their experiences on a single independent platform.

Exploring the MICHELIN Guide website and mobile application is easy and intuitive from planning to booking. Clients may take inspiration from the magazine section, choose between accommodations using a filtering search engine, reserve a room, pay online, and provide feedback or share their experiences. The platform is ad-free for more fluid browsing, and future travellers can also enjoy a customer service available 24 hours a day, seven days a week, as well as the assistance of a team of travel experts who specialise in offering tailored guidance.

The MICHELIN Key, a new MICHELIN Guide distinction
In this new selection, The MICHELIN Guide teams seek to highlight the establishments that raise hospitality to an art form, forging absolutely unique experiences for travellers. 

Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of The MICHELIN Guides, states: “The MICHELIN Key is a clear, reliable indication for travellers. Just as the MICHELIN Star distinguishes those restaurants that are at the peak of their art, the MICHELIN Key recognises the most exceptional hotels throughout the world. It is also an acknowledgment of the teamwork of committed enthusiastic hospitality professionals.” 

Each year, the MICHELIN Key will distinguish exceptional establishments led by teams with unique forms of knowledge. The MICHELIN Key will be awarded following one or several stays conducted anonymously by The MICHELIN Guide selection teams. 

The MICHELIN Guide teams are currently in the field and will reveal the first MICHELIN Key selection in the first half of 2024.

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