Alsace Makes Pinot Gris Tick. Just ask Jean Trimbach!

Jean's everyday wine!

Alsace Makes Pinot Gris Tick. 

Just ask Jean Trimbach!

Trimbach Pinot Gris Réserve Alsace (AC) 2017, 14% ABV

(c. €27.00)

For 13 generations, beginning in 1626, Maison Trimbach in Ribeauvillé, in the heart of Alsace, has devoted all its resources to producing great Alsace wines. This is one of them based on one of their remarkable Alsace grape varieties, the Pinot Gris. Delicious when young, these reach their finest expressions after some years of ageing.

 

It has a beautiful light gold colour. Aromas are gentle, a mix of floral and fruit (peaches, pears) and flowers. It is full-bodied with a gorgeous fruity palate, subtle spices, and a long finish. A generous wine, an ideal partner at the table. Suggested pairings include terrines, shellfish, oily fish, smoked fish, in sauce and raw, sushi, white meats, sweetbreads, mushrooms, spicy and aromatic dishes, Asian cuisine … Versatile, isn’t it?

Very Highly Recommended.

At a Kinsale tasting this year, Jean Trimbach (right) started with the 2018 vintage of this Pinot Gris Reserve. He was at pains to emphasise that this is a French grape, distinct from Pinot Grigio!

The grape now known in Alsace as Pinot Gris is thought to have originated in the Burgundy region of France. It is a colour mutation of Pinot Noir, and has been known since the Middle Ages. For centuries, it was called Tokay d’Alsace In Alsace until in relatively recent times, Hungary and the EU put an end to that.

Grapes & Wines indicates that Pinot Gris can produce really good wines in many countries “but I still go back to Alsace to see what makes it tick” and points the finger at the climate. in Alsace where “long hang times are possible; you can pick late for dry or off-dry, and even later for sweet ones.”

In Germany, Pinot Gris is known as Grauburgunder. It is a popular grape in the Baden region and, just like Alsace, is used to make a variety of wines, from dry to sweet.

*************

Check my growing list of top wines for 2023

*************

Check out my Good Value Wine List here

***************

Jean Trimbach’s remarks on his Pinot Gris being a French grape rather than an Italian one is made with a smile but the popularity of the Italian wine must still be irksome to some degree.

Jean is rarely slow to push the cause of Alsace in the wider world. And he also had a crack at Burgundy in Kinsale. Jean, who has been in this sales/marketing role since 1985, is always quick to point to the advantages that Alsace has, particularly when it comes to the more famous French region. “We have more Grand Cru wines than Burgundy because they have no granite, no volcanic, no slate… We have them all!” That big smile followed!

Trimbach wines are widely available in Ireland. I don't have a list of stockists for this but Dublin's 64 Wine has it.

The Michelin Key is coming. A Special Distinction For Hotels

press release

The MICHELIN Guide celebrates the most remarkable hotels in the world, by creating a special distinction: 

The MICHELIN Key

The MICHELIN Guide will be awarding exceptional hotels with the MICHELIN Key in future

 

 

• The MICHELIN Guide teams have selected more than 5,000 hotels and accommodations throughout the world,
  all available for booking on guide.michelin.com and the Guide mobile application
• With this new selection, The MICHELIN Guide creates the MICHELIN Key, a special distinction that
  highlights the establishments offering the most exceptional hotel experiences
• These hotels and accommodations will receive the MICHELIN Key beginning in 2024

As it does for restaurants, The MICHELIN Guide intends on independently recommending hotels that constitute true destinations. After four years of work, The MICHELIN Guide now proposes a new selection of more than 5,000 remarkable hotels in 120 countries.

In an industry saturated with questionably trustworthy endorsements, the MICHELIN Guide offers its expertise to travellers to guide them towards only the very best experiences. In response to today’s hyper-standardisation of accommodation (in terms of design, interior decoration, special touches, and so on), The MICHELIN Guide will appeal to travellers’ emotions by orienting them towards bold establishments that excel in every way: architectural approaches, professional know-how, and the existence of a true, identifiable personality. 

The new MICHELIN Guide selection recommends more than 5,000 hotels throughout 120 countries in a broad range of prices and styles. The selection is based on five criteria:

1. A destination unto itself: the hotel contributes to the local experience;
2. Excellence in interior design and architecture;
3. Individuality, reflecting personality and authenticity;
4. Quality and consistency in service, comfort and maintenance;
5. Consistency between the level of experience and the price paid.

Determined independently from all existing labels and free of any pre-established quotas, this hotel selection addresses those travellers who already trust The MICHELIN Guide and all those who seek verified, well-informed advice. 

With this new approach to hotels, The MICHELIN Guide has three objectives:

• To enable travellers to precede or follow a gourmet experience with a memorable hotel stay.
• To guide guests towards accommodations of character that offer much more than just a room for the night.
• To offer travellers the opportunity to choose, book, and share their experiences on a single independent platform.

Exploring the MICHELIN Guide website and mobile application is easy and intuitive from planning to booking. Clients may take inspiration from the magazine section, choose between accommodations using a filtering search engine, reserve a room, pay online, and provide feedback or share their experiences. The platform is ad-free for more fluid browsing, and future travellers can also enjoy a customer service available 24 hours a day, seven days a week, as well as the assistance of a team of travel experts who specialise in offering tailored guidance.

The MICHELIN Key, a new MICHELIN Guide distinction
In this new selection, The MICHELIN Guide teams seek to highlight the establishments that raise hospitality to an art form, forging absolutely unique experiences for travellers. 

Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of The MICHELIN Guides, states: “The MICHELIN Key is a clear, reliable indication for travellers. Just as the MICHELIN Star distinguishes those restaurants that are at the peak of their art, the MICHELIN Key recognises the most exceptional hotels throughout the world. It is also an acknowledgment of the teamwork of committed enthusiastic hospitality professionals.” 

Each year, the MICHELIN Key will distinguish exceptional establishments led by teams with unique forms of knowledge. The MICHELIN Key will be awarded following one or several stays conducted anonymously by The MICHELIN Guide selection teams. 

The MICHELIN Guide teams are currently in the field and will reveal the first MICHELIN Key selection in the first half of 2024.

 are 

CorkBillyBeers #47. Craft with White Hag, Wicklow Wolf, Lacada (with Brehon) and Hofbräuhaus Traunstein.

CorkBillyBeers #47

Craft with White Hag, Wicklow Wolf, Lacada (with Brehon) and Hofbräuhaus Traunstein.

******************

All Good Here!

The White Hag Ninth Wave New World Pale Ale, 5.4% ABV, 330 ml can Bradleys

Hard to believe that the IBU number here is 15 IBU, a lager like reading while, by the way, that of the well-known and loved Sierra Nevada Pale Ale equivalent is 38.

Colour is a mid-amber, cloudy, and topped with a short-lived white head. Aromatics are mild also, apricot, mango and citrus, all from the hops, in there. No sparing the hops that are added at various stages in the production of the brew creating some really bright tropical fruit flavours but always with a strong undercurrent of hops. 

Quite a greeting on the palate, creamy feel and insistently fruity (citrus to the fore) from the American hops, but all is kept in check as this balanced effort makes its way towards a very satisfactory finalé indeed.  Lively, flavourful and very drinkable. Another for that second glass, or should that be second can, designation!

Easy drinking, refreshing and thirst-quenching. And Very Highly Recommended.

They say: “We are a modern independent craft brewery from Sligo, on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. We brew innovative and groundbreaking beers, inspired by ancient and classic styles.” 

They brew a lot of them! The able and masterly brewers here ensure they are good.

The White Hag are deep into their myths and this New World Pale Ale is named after the “Ninth Wave” that formed a formidable barrier for anyone wishing to cross over to New York and Boston. 

******************

Wicklow Wolf Raindrop Mixed Berry Sour, 4.2% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

This summer’s “extension” provided some extra time for sours and our Raindrop from Wicklow Wolf was one. “A lip-smacking sour” according to the message from the Den. “A refreshing sour ale that will leave you wanting more.”

You can't miss it, this melange of raspberry, blackberry and blueberry, in its vibrant red colour and ripe fruit aromas. And those fruits also appear on the palate, as part of a crisp and refreshing tartness. A sour yes, but not one of the extreme ones.

I picked this up in error as I meant to try their Raindrop 0.5%, the non-alcoholic version. But no big deal, this is very drinkable, lip-smacking as they say, and Highly Recommended. Will just have to call again to Bradleys and pick the correct one!

Geek Bits

IBU: 10

Hops: Bravo

Malts: Pilsner, Chateau, Flaked Oats, Carapils

******************

Lacada (with Brehon) Dunseverick West Coast IPA, 5.5% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

Lacada is a community-owned Co-Operative brewery based on the world-famous North Coast of Ireland. That’s also where you’ll find Dunseverick Castle, after which this West Coast IPA is named.

Dunseverick, the beer that is, has a gold/amber colour and a soft white head that has a fair bit of longevity to it. Gave it the old finger-dip test and got a bit of resin back. The aromas also have hints of pine. There’s an impressive trio of hops lurking here and you get the robust results on the palate, deep and bitter, but there is also a good balance present.

That is key and I give it a big thumbs up. Very Highly Recommended.

Lacada Brewery has its origins in a love of beer and brewing, a love of place, and a love of people. It began with a father and son brewing together and grew to become a group of co-operative minded, good beer-loving aficionados.

Both Lacada and their collaborators on Dunseverick, the Brehon Brewhouse from County Monaghan, are happy with the results. As it is a limited edition, you may find it difficult to get your hands on a can or a keg.

The castle by the way is just east of The Giant's Causeway which dates back to the 5th Century. One of the five great royal ancient highways of Ireland, Slige Midluachra, had its Northern terminal point at Dunseverick Castle.

******************

HB Bayerisches Pils, 5.1% ABV, 500 ml bottle Bradleys

Looks so inviting in the tall glass. A light golden colour with battalions of bubbles streaming upwards into a soft foamy white head of medium longevity. You can smell the hops, Even get an early fresh and bitter taste by dipping your finger in the foam and taking a little suck. Or just dive straight in, and enjoy the dry and refreshing palate, the light sparkling body and that hoppy finish.

Many German brewers followed the example of Pilsner pioneer master brewer Josef Groll who, in 1842, developed the beer in Pilsen, Czech Republic, a beer that would gain popularity across the world. But, the brewers say, this Bavarian Pilsner by Hofbräuhaus Traunstein is milder, more balanced and easier to drink.

They say: “We have set up our own storage cellar for our Pils, tailored precisely to its needs, where it can ferment in peace until it is perfect - elegant and bright, with a subtle malt body….. a taste experience for connoisseurs who love a balanced hop note.” 

This bottom-fermented beer from Traunstein (Bavaria) comes in a brown bottle with an IBU number of 28. Carbonation has been analysed as high and it is regarded as mild, balanced, tasty, balanced hoppy, elegant, subtly malty, fresh, sparkling, .… Pretty much your go-to everyday beer.

Greenes Restaurant Celebrates Peruvian Cuisine this week with Guest Chef Jonathan Ordoñez

Greenes Restaurant Celebrates Peruvian Cuisine this week with

 Guest Chef Jonathan Ordoñez 

Nicolas Alegre (left) of Greenes Restaurant, Cork; Jonathan Ordoñez of Paschi Cocina Peruana, Madrid. 

Jonathan Ordoñez will travel from Madrid and join the Executive Head Chef of Greenes Restaurant, Nicolas Alegre, for an evening of Peruvian cuisine on Thursday 12th October.

In Nicolas Alegre's first year at the helm of the team in Greenes kitchen, he has developed the menu to include a Latin American influence paired with the classic dishes the restaurant is known for.  This Thursday, 12th October, Nicolas will welcome guests for an evening of food and drinks celebrating Peruvian food. 

Peruvian Jonathan Ordoñez is a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Peru, he worked in a number of prestigious restaurants in his home country before travelling to Madrid to share the flavours and culture of Peru in his restaurant Paschi Cocina Peruana. Paschi Cocina Peruana is described in the Michelin Guide 2023 as ‘Paschi opens tastebuds to the flavours of Peruvian cuisine, with the occasional nod to Chinese and Japanese cooking’. 

The event takes place on Thursday the 12th of October, with limited spaces available. The price is €75 for the tasting menu with an option of wine pairing for €42.50.  To reserve your table book via greenesrestaurant.com. 

For more information, see the website www.greenesrestaurant.com

Local and Seasonal. Tempting choices in Princes Street as Nash 19 supports local producers

Local and Seasonal. Tempting choices in Princes Street as Nash 19 supports local producers

Nash 19, founded in 1992 by Claire Nash,  has expanded, during and post-Covid, from a restaurant into a Food and Gift Shop, Wine Bar, and Sternview Gallery. Changes galore then in the Princes Street venue but one thing remains and that is Nash’s unwavering support for local producers. 

We joined the queue at No. 19 last Friday and, after a warm welcome, were soon seated and studying the extensive menu, a menu that changes more or less daily. The produce may be local, quite a bit from the neighbouring English Market, but that doesn't mean that the restaurant is exempt from outside influence: it won't be the same old same old. You’ll see words such as Dukkah, Bouillabaisse, Sashimi, Stroganoff, and Tzatziki scattered on the menu pages. 

The local producers are also acknowledged and, on the day, names such as Tim Mulcahy (Chicken Inn), Cashel Blue, Hederman, Gubbeen, Bandon Vale, Waterfall Farm, K. O’Connell fish, Rossmore Oysters, Longueville Cider, Union Hall fish, Garryhinch, and Ardsallagh Goats, were among those included.

The choice here is quite amazing. I counted about 20 dishes (six of which were marked with a little fish drawing at the side) and didn't include desserts - didn't make it that far! Lots of wine is available too, of course, more so than a few years ago. My drink on the day though was one of the very best around, the superb classic Sparkling Apple Juice from Con Traas at the Apple Farm in Cahir.

For all that though, the star of our two courses was the House Pâté, Chicken Liver "Free Range", Crusty Sourdough, and Pickled Plum (13 euro). Claire herself is very proud of this one and rightly so, the best paté we’ve had this year.

I had been tempted by the Pork fillet and Garryhinch wild Mushroom Stroganoff, Rice dish but went instead for the Goats Cheese Salad, Ardsallagh Soft and Ash, Candied Nut, and Conference Pear (16.70). CL usually opts for this type of dish so when she didn't I did and enjoyed it, especially the two versions of the cheese and those candied nuts and the salad of course.

Salads are now shifting from the crisp summer leaves to the more robust type and that was also the case with CL’s Chicken Breast Salad Bowl, "Free Range", Relish, Dukkah, Tzatziki (16.70), another seasonal local and well-appreciated dish.

We would have had liked to linger a while longer and check out the desserts but we were on a tight schedule (very rare for us these days!) and had to move on and say goodbye to Claire and the smiling helpful staff, still busy as we departed at 2.30 or thereabouts. 

* By the way, if you are thinking of calling in for lunch at weekends, remember it is a busy place, so do make a reservation. Find all the details you need here  

A short preprandial stroll, full of history.

As you exit Nash 19, turn left and head south. 

An early 19th-century one-arch bridge, significant in its own right for the quality of its design and construction (according to buildingsofireland.ie) takes you over the south channel. Walk now to nearby St Finbarr’s South “the oldest Catholic church still in use in Cork City”.

Parliament Bridge is a limestone structure, built in 1806. It is also important to the river and urban landscape and is still in use as an important thoroughfare for the city.

Just five minutes after leaving the restaurant, we arrived at The church, also known as the South Chapel. This is even older than the bridge and was built in 1766; is a rare Catholic Mass House of the period. Located below the High Altar you’ll see the life-size sculptured figure, "The Dead Christ”, by the famous Cork sculptor John Hogan (1800-58).

On a day when some new street sculpture went up at the corner of Oliver Plunkett St and Princes St to be instantly flashed around the internet, I was on a “mission” to get a photo of the Hogan work. The fact that we were married there on a snowy Shrove Tuesday in 19whatever also had something to with it!

From the church, it took us just about five minutes to get to Nash 19 for our lunch.

Blarney Castle and Gardens. Autumn Begins

Blarney Castle Gardens 

Autumn Begins

7th October 2023

Sweet chestnuts

Curious

Framed

Michaelmas Daisies

Red oak

Rhus

Starlings

Beautiful organic wine from the living soil of the Azul y Garanza vineyards.

Beautiful organic wine from the living soil of the Azul y Garanza vineyards.

Colourful cricket!

Azul y Garanza Suelo Vivo blanco (Wine of Spain) 2022, 13% ABV.

RRP: c. €20.00. Stockists: Sonas Newcastlewest; Mary Pawle Wines

In the vineyard, you can’t see the cricket, but you hear it.

You can’t see the soul of a living soil (Suelo Vivo), but you can feel it.

That’s the line on the label of this delicious organic wine from Azul y Garanza. Colour is a light straw, quite hazy in the bottle and glass. Aromas are delicate, of the citrus kind, with hints of fennel in the background. Quite a complex palate, with peach, apricot, yellow plum and citrus in the mix, a very refreshing melange indeed.

Highly Recommended

*************

Check my growing list of top wines for 2023

*************

Check out my Good Value Wine List here

***************

A new wine, certified organic, but already getting praise: “fun summertime wine”, “perfect everyday wine”, “the fruit shines”, “a refreshing beast”, “soft yet generous”, and the beer accolade of “crushable”. You can't see the soul but you sure can taste the body!

It is a blend with 90% Garancha Blanca and 10% Moscatel. The vast majority of Garnacha Blanca (or Grenache Blanc) is grown in Spain (Herencia Altes a top choice) and France (look for Ferraton and Chapoutier). It can produce full-bodied wines that go well with bigger fish such as tuna.

The Azul y Garanza vineyards are located in the Bardenas Reales Natural Park in Navarra. A huge commitment to biodiversity in the vineyards leads to wines of pronounced purity. This particular example is a pure wine from a living soil (Suelo Vivo) that is in harmony with nature.