A golden Encruzado just after the hurricane-driven flames that came close to obliterating Portugal's Casa De Mouraz in 2017

A golden Encruzado just after the hurricane-driven flames 

that came close to obliterating Portugal's Casa De Mouraz in 2017

Casa De Mouraz Encruzado Vinho Branco Dão (DOC) 2018, 13% 

€21-22. The Vintry Dublin. Mary Pawle Wines. 

The colour is a gorgeous and inviting golden straw with tints of green. The feel-good factor continues with the expressive aromas, a magnificent melange of citrus (lemon and orange zest), apricot, and peach, fresh and free. And the second it seeps across the palate you surrender your senses, ignoring all outside distractions, to make the most of the vibrant fruit, its minerality structure and balance. And you’re not ready to reengage with your surroundings for another few sensual seconds as your Encruzado lingers.

Do I hear Highly Recommended? Very Highly Recommended actually!

And to think we almost lost it all in October 2017. Late at night, their phone rang: Your warehouse is on fire! According to the excellent Foot Trodden, “savage forest fires.. had reached Dāo, thanks to Hurricane Ophelia…” Not only was the warehouse almost totally destroyed but the equipment around the yard and more than half of their 20 hectares of vines were also burned. A local news outlet put the cost at not less than €700,000.

Antonio and Sara were down. But not out. Helped by crowdfunding (from December 2017) they got back up and running and produced this marvellous wine, a wine that embodies the excellence of the Encruzado grape variety, the noblest white variety of the Dão.

Winemaker Antonio just loves Encruzado: “It grows in complexity as it ages, is great for oak ageing. It has a wonderful gastronomic ability to cut through fatty foods. It is an autumn wine, a fireplace wine. It may not be in fashion but it is a wonderful variety, wonderful to work with.”

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Check my growing list of top wines for 2023

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Check out my Good Value Wine List here

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On food, they recommend pairing it with oven-baked fish (such as codfish, salmon or tuna). “Also very good with white meat and some vegetarian dishes like pasta with pesto or cheese sauces. Aside from handling full-flavoured fish dishes (including the Portuguese favourite bacalao), it is excellent on its own. very versatile indeed. Serve at a temperature of 11-12ºC.”

The label is packed with info: “Mouraz is a little village in the heart of the Dāo, where Antonio’s family have farmed vineyards in a holistic and ecological way for many generations. This wine was made from the indigenous grape Encrruzado, the most important white variety from the Dão. This authentic wine was fermented naturally with controlled temperature and remained on the lees for 12 months (with bâtonnage).”

* The first thing you’ll note is that the cork is covered with wax. Just remove that with the blade on your corkscrew. It is fairly soft but be careful! Alternatively, warm the top by rubbing it with the palm of your hand. Then plunge in the corkscrew as usual and it should all come away. If you get it right, just a little disc of the wax will come away with the cork. Video demo here. 

Youthful Léa’s already making a name for itself and creating a buzz in the Glucksman at UCC

Youthful Léa’s already making a name for itself and creating a buzz in the Glucksman at UCC.

Steak!

Léa's, a new daytime restaurant in Cork's Glucksman Art Gallery, is being brought to you by three youthful friends: Colm Liston, Joe Dowling, and Cyprien Jouve. 

The trio, who already have two successful cafes in the city under the Joe's+Bros title, are aiming to create a high-energy hub for people to hang out, drink good coffee, eat better food, and listen to great music (not too much need for music if this level of buzz continues!).

And that buzzy atmosphere, the happy noise of people of many ages enjoying their food and drink, has been there from the August (2023) start. The place was packed when we visited last week and one of the staff told me it is like that every day, seven days a week. So do book here before you go.

We arrived about 12:30 pm and were soon at our table with both the brunch and lunch menus to choose from.

Chicken

As it happened, we picked one from each. My choice from the Brunch menu was the Chimichurri Steak:  Open Rosscarbery steak served on Pana toast with chimichurri, fried egg, crispy onions, hollandaise and dressed leaves. Packed with flavours, on well-oiled bread (a good quality olive oil ensuring the toast wouldn’t break my “old” teeth!). This satisfactory plateful could well be your dinner for the day. Just add a side to be sure!

CL chose the Léa’s Sambo: Grilled chicken or Pulled ham, garlic mayo, crispy shoestring fries and piccalilli (a favourite of hers) served on pana bread with Monterey Jack cheese. The chicken choice was taken and the sambo was superb, again adding a side will make quite a plateful and you have some 11 sides to choose from.

Open from 8.30 am, Léa's offers a breakfast menu of contemporary dishes, such as Chocolate porridge, Cacao granola, and Peanut butter toast. For brunch (from 10.00 am), there's a wider selection to choose from, including Ham hock benedict, Chimichurri steak, and Hong Kong French toast (not too sure about this variation but bound to suit someone!).

Léa's, pictured from the west. That wall is a necessary flood defence
but also acts as a wind barrier to the outside dining area.

The lunch menu, which runs alongside the brunch menu, features a variety of sandwiches, burgers, and bowls. Some of the highlights include the Jalapeño smash burger, Korean fried chicken bun, and Fritter Smuggler. There's also a good selection of sides (no less than eleven) and sweet treats available.

Those sweet treats consist mostly of cake slices though brownies and cookies are also available. We enjoyed the Orange and Almond Tart, nice and moist with excellent Badger & Dodo coffee. 

Léa's has been open for just four weeks, but it's already proving to be a popular spot with students, college staff and visitors. The restaurant is already known for its friendly atmosphere, efficient and friendly service, delicious food, and reasonable prices. If you're looking for a new place to go for breakfast, brunch, or lunch, Léa's is definitely worth a try.

* The menus are based on the best of local produce and this is well handled in the kitchen. There is a list of suppliers on the wall here and they include the likes of Rosscarbery beef and pork, K. O’Connell Fish, Pana Bread, Toonsbridge Dairy, Stonewell Cider and Barry’s Tea.

The Glucksman

* The Glucksman Gallery is a renowned cultural institution, and its unique setting makes it a perfect partner for Léa's. The gallery, with its cantilevered and wood-clad structure, is listed internationally as one of the “1001 buildings you must see before you die”. Léa's plans to offer extended hours to accommodate gallery and university functions.

* Unless you are permitted to use the college lots, parking may be a problem but both the 208 and 205 buses service the area and their stops are just a few steps from the college gates and Léa’s is just a few minutes inside.

Music and Food and Good Humour Abound as Culture Night takes over in the city.

 Music and Food and Good Humour abound 

as Culture Night takes over in the City.

L'Atitude Beverley and Simone in the open-air kitchen. Their burger,
from the best of local ingredients, was amazing, out of this world! 

The Goldie Angel, in the evening, (from the walls of Elizabeth Fort)

Spic and span modern buildings, the northside in the distance,
from a viewpoint on the walls of the 17th-century fort.

Shandon, with its Goldie Fish, and the tower of the North Cathedral (left)

Ukranians (part of a large choir) sing Danny Boy (and much more) at City Hall.

Mayfield Men's Shed Choir at Cork City Library, Grand Parade.

Mayfield men in full voice!

Lots going on in the English Market with quite a few traders pulling out all the stops, food and entertainment in all the aisles. Found it hard though to get past the Roughty Foodie stall where a varied menu and singer Amanda Neary proved a major draw. While Margo Ann welcomed the visitors out front, Gerry stayed cool, calm and collected in the background.

Heading home after a superb evening in the city.

Scents of the garrigue, sultry heat of a Languedoc summer, make this Fitou a very good one indeed. “Oui, oui! Or should that be “way, way”!

Scents of the garrigue, sultry heat of a Languedoc summer, help make this Fitou a very good one indeed.

“Oui, oui! Or should that be “way, way”!

Cascatel Prieur De Berre Fitou (AOP) 2020, 14% ABV, €16.00 Bubble Brothers.

Fitou is a village close to the Mediterranean coast in southern France's Languedoc-Roussillon wine region. The village name has been given to the red wine appellation.

Carignan and Grenache are the main grapes in Fitou and the duo must account for 60% of any blend.  Syrah (as is the case here) and Mourvedgre may make up to a maximum of 20%. The blend here is Carignan 50%, Grenache Noir 35% and Syrah 15%.

The colour is a dark ruby. There are hot toasty scents of the garrigue, quite intense, red fruits, and some spice too.  Much of that makes it through to the palate which is fresh, full and generous. The finish is elegant, more so than you'd expect.

The producers are thrilled with it. “A modern wine of harmony and perfect balance. This ready-to-drink cuvée will continue to improve for a few years in the cellar.”

Importers Bubble Brothers put it well: ”The sultry heat of a Languedoc summer concentrated into a smooth, beguiling red…. Not quite a holiday in a bottle, but definitely a mini-break!”

Billy Forrester, founder of the Cork company, commented (via Instagram): "We’re very happy to work with @cascastel_vignerons_artisans for just that reason—a flavour of the Languedoc whatever the dish.

Isn’t the decanter great? If you’d said it was a classic from the Wine Geese era I’d nearly have believed you. Bravo @newbridgesilverware." 

Highly Recommended.  And well priced too, just like the decanter!

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Check my growing list of top wines for 2023

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Check out my Good Value Wine List here

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The duck decanter in the top pic was bought during a recent visit to Newbridge Silverware. Be sure and try the restaurant while you are there and also the Museum of Style Icons. More details of my visit here.

Established on April 28, 1948, the Fitou appellation is the oldest and most renowned in Languedoc. The vineyard is made up of a multitude of small plots reclaimed from the scrubland (garrigue). A hot, dry and windy climate allows perfect ripening of the berries and provides excellent sanitary conditions.

“The word 'garrigue' refers to the heady scent of the mix of herbs and shrubs found everywhere in the arid, wild scrublands of the Languedoc. …In our part of Southern France, the garrigue is mostly made up of wild herbs like lavender, thyme, sage and rosemary and the aromas scent the air, especially during the summer months. So can garrigue impart a taste into the red wines, and, if so, how?”

The quote is from the vineyard blog (by Neasa) of Laurent Miquel. More on the garrigue by Neasa here. 

You just cannot miss the garrigue around here: you see it, you smell it, you hear it. I once spent a holiday near Narbonne, quite close to Fitou and, believe or not, our gite owner was a Madame Garrigue.

What you’ll also notice here is the local accent of the people of the Languedoc. You’ll wait in vain for someone to say “oui, oui” but you’ll know everything is okay when you hear a hearty “way, way”!

John Power and his delicious spirits of lovely Beara. Gin and Whiskey in the catch. And his amazing tour!

John Power and his delicious spirits of the lovely Beara penisula. 

Gin and Whiskey in the catch. 

And his amazing tour!

Enjoying Gallagher's event with John and Valerie Power (on the left)

If you want to talk to John Power about his favourite whiskey then just mention Beara Black Cask Blend Whiskey.

John selected the casks at the Great Northern Distillery. ”Our Black Cask Blend Whiskey is finished in Beara with the infusion of clear spring waters from the Caha Mountains that divide the peninsula and separate Cork and Kerry, before being carefully bottled.

Spirits of Beara

Beara Irish Whiskey is a unique blend of single malt and extra char cask-finished single-grain Irish Whiskeys. Hearty pot still notes with some spice and a hint of melon & ginger. Full-bodied with soft delicate sherry undertones, and toasted wood, perfectly balanced with fruit, spice and some chocolate notes.

It can best be enjoyed neat, with ice or with just a splash of water to open up the rich malt and toasted oak flavours.”

He didn't mention cocktails but they were all the go on the day last August that I first met John and his wife Valerie. We were in Gallagher’s Gastro Pub in Cork’s MacCurtain Street for an event that was part of the highly successful Cork on Fork Food Festival.

The Beara-Ly Standing cocktail (above), made with Beara Black Cask Whiskey, lemon, red berry sherbet, egg white, crushed almond, and meringue, was the perfect sweet ending to a lovely afternoon at the annual Cork on a Fork Festival. It was paired with a Lemon Gin infused polenta, mascarpone honey glaze roasted almonds, and mixed berries, creating a truly decadent and delicious experience.

More recently, I asked John if there was something unique about his spirits? 

“In our gins, we use Sugar kelp seaweed from our shores, Fuchsia buds from the hedgerows of Beara and Atlantic Salt water from the Beara Atlantic coastal waters. Our whiskeys are finished at our Distillery where they are cut using spring water from The Caha Mountains.”

US visitors enjoying the loft experience

Black Cask is John's favourite whiskey and his favourite gin is Beara Ocean Gin Original. And that gin featured in another cocktail at the Gallagher’s event. Unusual Abundance was the name: Beara Ocean Gin, sugar kelp, nettle and lime cordial, and honey.

Gallagher’s came up trumps when they matched this with a really amazing and well-named Salmon Sensation, a delicious combo of Lemon & Lime Beara Gin Cured Salmon, poached cherry tomatoes, sesame seeds, garlic basil, apple celeriac remoulade, samphire and nori seaweed foam. Every bit on the plate played a role; the salmon itself was memorable and those tomatoes were something else. 

John, as can guess, just loves his home place. “We are inspired by our place, the beautiful Beara Peninsula and we want to portray our area in our spirits. We are Origin Green approved and make every effort to recycle our packaging etc.”

Power and his team really enjoy bringing their spirits to you but now people are coming to Beara to enjoy them in their "native" environment. Tours of the Fisherman’s Loft are turning out to be quite an attraction for visitors from near and far.

The welcome from John is a hearty one!

Fisherman’s Loft? You may well ask. Like many a man from the Beara Peninsula, John has been a fisherman himself but there is a disappointment in his voice when he confesses that some time back, he saw little future in the industry and so, in 2017, set out on the spirits trail.

As part of the visitor attraction, he hit on the idea of a small museum where he has gathered many items associated with the local fishing industry and has presented them in an unfussy way in the loft. So add those artefacts, the whiskey and John’s good humour and wit and you are on the way to a very enjoyable evening indeed.

Just one stop on the beautiful Ring of Beara

Here’s an invite from John: Join us for a tour of our quaint distillery and tasting experience in our Fisherman's Loft. As you taste our award-winning gin and whiskey, complimented by Lorge's luxurious chocolate, let us transport you to a world where tradition, passion and maritime allure converge in every sip.

As you enter our tasting room, you'll be greeted by a captivating ambience, adorned with rustic maritime artifacts that tell the tales of this coastal region. The weathered wood, fishing nets and nautical curiosities create an atmosphere that takes you to a bygone era, where the sea and the land intertwine in harmony.

Currently, tours are available on Friday evenings. The tour is wheelchair accessible and given in English. More details(and bookings) here.

Previous Brewery / Distillery / Meadery posts:

Ballykilcavan The Taste of Laois in your glass.

9 White Deer At Home In Ballyvourney. And On The World Wide Web

Whitefield's Local Connections.

Mescan

Wicklow Wolf ranges far and wide

Kinsale Mead

Beara Distillery

Any craft drinks or food producer out there interested in a post like this, feel free to get in touch!

An Evening of Moët & Chandon Champagnes Perfectly Paired with Dishes from Rare at Blue Haven in Kinsale

 An Evening of Moët & Chandon Champagnes Perfectly Paired with Dishes from Rare at Blue Haven in Kinsale 

Meeran Manzoor of Rare at Blue Haven restaurant in Kinsale and sommelier Julie Dupouy will host a very special evening of exquisitely paired food to the champagnes of Moët & Chandon. 

On Friday, 13th of October guests of Rare Restaurant in Kinsale will experience an exclusive night of a seasonal five-course tasting menu prepared by Meeran Manzoor and his kitchen team, plus learn about the intricacies of champagne and how each of the five Moët & Chandon champagnes were chosen to pair with each dish. 

Julie Dupouy is one of the world's best sommeliers having previously worked with two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and Chapter One. Julie has been awarded the Best Sommelier in Ireland no less than four times and was a bronze medalist at the ASI World Sommelier Championship, where she represented Ireland and the Irish Guild of Sommeliers.

Julie said, “I am thrilled to co-host a champagne dinner at Rare Restaurant in Kinsale this Autumn. Guests will have the opportunity to enjoy five different champagnes from the House of Moët & Chandon paired with a menu specially curated for this occasion to complement each champagne. I am looking forward to sharing some stories and sharing my passion for champagne with all attendees”. 

Executive Head Chef, Meeran Manzoor,  has selected local, seasonal ingredients to complement Moët & Chandon’s unique champagne style which is distinguished by its bright fruitiness, seductive palate, and elegant maturity. 

Meeran says “ The flavour profiles of each dish are unique and inspired by rural cuisines of Tamil Nadu which are very original to its roots but cooked in modern gastronomic techniques using hyper-local ingredients. It’s going to be an exciting event.”

The price per person for the 5-course tasting menu and champagne pairings is €165.  The evening has a very limited capacity and guests are advised to book early. For bookings email bookings@bluehavenkinsale.com 

Keep up to date with the latest news by following Rare Kinsale on social at @rarekinsale

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