A Right Royal Progress Through The Kingdom 2023

 A Right Royal Progress Through The Kingdom 2023

Doorway to the Kingdom South-West Coast. Waterville April 2023

Getting to Kerry a lot this year and the latest trip began on April 25th with the destination being the area from Waterville to Valentia Island.

First stop was for a lunchtime snack at the newish Luna Wine Bar in Killarney, quite close to where the jarveys gather to pick up their fares. Luna is a high-quality deli serving coffee, pastries, sandwiches, salads with a natural wine offering.

Luna

Saw their sandwiches on Facebook and they caught my eye. The offering on the day’s menu was:

• chargrilled chicken thighs, smoked harissa mayo, black olive + lemon tapenade, pink pickled onions, mixed leaves

• panko crumbed tofu, katsu mayo, carrot + cabbage slaw, coriander

• hot smoked @gubbeen ham, smoked cheese, wild garlic pesto + horseradish mayo, mixed leaves

You can always rely on Gubbeen so that was my pick, quite a hearty one. Some interesting drinks there, including Kombucha (from Galway), their own sparkling rhubarb lemonade “back by popular demand for the season”, but my pick was the excellent Attyflin Apple Juice.

McCarthy Mor Tower House, Ballinskelligs Beach

Charged by that, we motored on and headed for Ballinskelligs with the intention of doing part or all of the Bolus Head walk. But the meagre sunshine that accompanied us to Killarney had begun to vanish. 

We drove to the trailhead and headed off on the walk for Bolus Head (it takes about three hours). It soon became apparent (maybe not the right word) that it would be foolish to keep going as the mist was begin to creep down from the mountain tops and a second front spread across the ocean and those magical islands of the Skelligs had disappeared totally. But we did enjoy our hour on the walk with the sea on one side and the hard fields full of sheep and their lambs and a scattering of cattle on the other.

Stonechat

On then to Ballinskelligs itself and there was better visibility down by the bay. Good view of the ruined McCarthy Mor Tower House (Ballinskelligs Castle) and the more distant Ballinskelligs Abbey (also in ruins). 

Time then to check in at our accommodation for the night, the outstanding Seaclusion B & B right on the seaside in Waterville. It is one of the best examples of its type that I've come across in a long while. A very warm welcome, beautifully decorated throughout, and a great view over the bay from our room. Great choice at breakfast and top class as well. Hard to beat the French Toast there! Plenty of private parking also. Very helpful too with tips of where to eat and it was here that we found out the location of the McGill Brewery (a very good tip indeed!).

Next “trip” was a leisurely walk from Seaclusion to the Lobster, a bar cum restaurant a few blocks nearer Waterville centre. We got a table by the window and by the time we left were full to the gills with some excellent food, including a outstanding Halibut special.

The following day was widely forecast to rain on us all day long. It just didn’t happen, though there was a shower as we made our first stop at the McGill Microbrewery (recommended by Seaclusion) across from the church on the road to Ballinskelligs. Be careful crossing the road here as the traffic comes from a few different directions and moves quite quickly

.

Bubbles & Chocolate

Got a warm welcome from founder-owner Joe and we'll feature the brewery in the blog soon. We had enjoyed his Waterville IPA at the Lobster and on the strength of that bought a bunch of his beers at the local Centra.

Off then to Ballinskelligs Beach. The rain had stopped, for the day, but it remained dull. There was one sign of summer though as a large crane arrived to lift the Lifeguards’ Hut into position on the strand. Off we went on our walk, first to the ruined abbey; apparently the monks from Skelligs ended up here when they abandoned the island. Back then to the McCarthy castle, on the beach, before getting into the car again and following the Skellig Ring.

This took us back towards our stop of the day before but this time we continued on to visit the Skellig Chocolate factory. We had been disappointed that we haven’t been able to get their Brittle boxes recently and had it finally confirmed to us that they have been replaced by the Shards. Still disappointed at that decision by the new owners but we did buy a few bits and pieces including a couple of their bars, most notably an outstanding Milk Chocolate with Aran Island Sea Salt Fudge.

On along the narrow roads then for a visit to the spectacular Kerry Cliffs (€5.00 per person). You walk up a prepared pathway to a 2-pronged viewing area. You are advised to do the one on the right first (where the cliffs are more rugged) and then the left, but you do have a view all the while. 

The famous islands from the Kerry Cliffs

The heights are very impressive. It remained dull but we still got a good view of the Skelligs from a specially built extension to the pathway. A popular place and well worth the few euro!

People high on the viewpoint to the right at Kerry Cliffs

Down then to Portmagee and over the bridge to Valentia. It had been a while since we visited the Skellig Experience Centre just past the bridge.  It has an exhibition area, an audio visual, gift shop as well as a fully licensed restaurant.

Here, through re-creations and models, you can study the works and lives of the Skellig monks of the early Christian period and wonder at the legacy of architecture that they left behind.

The Skellig Experience with its grass covered roof; Portmagee in background

The Skellig Experience Centre also offers the history of the island’s lighthouse keepers and its service to mariners since the 1820’s. And there’s a fine educational display about the seabirds of the area. It may be a bit limited in size and in technology, but there’s still quite a lot to take in here.

Whenever we visit Valentia, the Bray Head walk is part of the tour. But not this time and we didn’t get to the lighthouse, the slate quarry or the tracks of the tetrapod.

View from the top of the island. Just a fraction of the 360° panorama

But we did get to the top of Geokaun Mountain, the highest point on Valentia Island at 266 metres. On top of the mountain you have a fantastic 360° panoramic view over the Skelligs, the Blasket Islands and Dingle Bay.

We called it a day in the great outdoors after that and headed for the B&B for the night. Horizon View is just about 15 minutes walk from Knightstown and is splendidly located with great views out over the water, even to the Blasket Islands, but certainly to the lighthouse. And your host Alan will give you a warm welcome and fill you in on things to do in the locality, the first of which is to view the superb seaview (including the lighthouse) from the sitting room balcony.

Sunset over the lighthouse, as seen from Horizon View, our B&B.

This gull came to see
what we had on our plate at the Royal

Later that evening, the sun (after just a few minutes being up) went down for the day.  Alan gave us the direction earlier on and we managed a decent photo or two even though he has seen many more spectacular sunsets in his lovely location, just minutes from Knightstown (and the ferry to Cahirciveen.

But we were in good form at that stage having been well fed at the Royal Hotel by the waterside, where the local beer Killarney Blonde was on tap. Next morning, having had a hearty breakfast, we said goodbye to Alan and headed away from the Kingdom and back to the Rebel City where we arrived 2.5 hours later.

Also on this trip:

The Lobster Waterville

Skellig Experience Centre - The Monks Dinner

McGill Brewery*

Royal Hotel, Knightstown

A Right Royal Progress Through The Kingdom

* Post to follow

Recent Kerry posts

Killarney's lovely Victoria Hotel

Dinner at The Ivy in Killarney

Dining at The Harrow Killarney

Excellent Lunch at Brehon Hotel

Seeing Red at the lovely Sneem Hotel

Lunch at Killarney Brewery & Distillery in Fossa.

Dingle Drive, Slea Head and more 

The 2017 version of this trip has some other attractions not visited this time. Take a look here.

You don't need a Sat Nav to find good wine around Nantes. Go direct for this Muscadet Sur Lie

You don't need a Sat Nav to find good wine around Nantes. Go direct for this Muscadet Sur Lie

Günther Chéreau Confluentia Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (AP) 2021, 12% ABV 

RRP €21.99 wineonline.ie World Wide Wines

Back in the day, around 1980, on family holidays in Brittany, I would wander into a supermarket and check out the wine. For seven or eight francs, the equivalent of our pound, I could buy a bottle of Muscadet, for a franc or two less, a bottle of Gros Plant, each from the bottom shelves. Very happy then with the price (compared to back home) and happy too with the quality (of which I knew very little).

Didn’t know anything about Sur Lie either, the two little words that appear on some Muscadet bottles and are a likely indicator of extra quality. Confluentia has them on the front label. Liberty Wines, the importers, explain: Château du Coing’s Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie is fermented with indigenous yeasts and spends the winter on its lees. The bottling of ‘Sur Lie’ wines cannot legally start until after the first Thursday in the March following the vintage. ‘Confluentia’ comes from a single south-facing parcel located exactly at the confluence of the rivers. It spends 10 months on lees and impresses for its distinctive textured, fragrant style.

Colour of our wine is a light gold with a myriad of micro bubbles clinging to the walls of the glass. It is delicately fragrant, citrus and floral. On the palate it is textured, is fresh, elegant and well balanced, with flavours to match the aromas. And quite decent length in the finish.

We are lucky to have it here in our glasses. It wasn’t the best of years in the area round Nantes where the fruit is grown.The spring frost resulted in a large part of the crop being lost.

The Loire

Goes well with seafood along with fish from the sea and rivers, some cheeses, or as an aperitif. Best served at around 12°C degrees.

St Fiacre had a monastery in County Kilkenny and later in France. Among other things, he is the patron saint of gardeners, wine growers included perhaps. The area around Château du Coing in the village of Saint Fiacre is surrounded by vines, most of them bearing the Melon de Bourgogne, the grape from which Muscadet is produced.

Back in those days, we had no Sat-Navs nor Google Maps and there is many a Cork driver who got lost in Nantes as he or she, fresh off the ferry at Roscoff, headed south. It happened to me one Sunday morning. Eventually I came out of the city and found myself in the vines, probably quite close to St Fiacre! Luckily, we spotted a sign for a town to the south that we knew was on the proper route and soon we were back on track.

Very Highly Recommended.

• Gros Plant, the other grape of the area, is sharply acidic, very tangy and sour. Only the natives love it and the wine is not exported.

CorkBillyBeers #23. Craft Pale Ale with Whiplash, 9 White Deer, West Kerry and Dungarvan Brewing

CorkBillyBeers #23

Craft Pale Ale with Whiplash, 9 White Deer, West Kerry and Dungarvan Brewing

******************

Dungarvan Brewing Mine Head American Pale Ale, 5.5% ABV, 500ml bottle The Local, Dungarvan

Here we have a classic West Coast style American Pale Ale from the south coast of Ireland. Dungarvan say: This is a classic American style pale ale made using only cascade hops, and also dry hopped with Cascade to impart fresh hop aromas. Released in summer 2014, this is now a full time part of of our core range and available in keg, bottle and .. in can year round.

The dry hopped process means adding whole leaf hops into the fermenter. This gives more of a hop aroma to the beer, and a fresh initial hit of the hop flavours.

And it is citrus all the balanced way, a teeny touch of marmalade sweetness later on and nothing really bitter at that stage. A pleasant and harmonious bottle indeed, enjoyed at The Local in Dungarvan itself. 

Best served lightly chilled, from 8-12°C, and you’ll find it versatile at the table,  working well with lighter fish or with earthy meats such as lamb or beef. Also excellent with spicy Thai or Vietnamese food, or keep it American with a burger! Great with a creamy camembert-style cheese or a tart sheeps cheese.

Highly Recommended

Geek Bits - 

Style: American Pale Ale

ABV: 5.5%

Hops: Cascade

IBUs: 38

******************

Whiplash Under Ground DDZ Pale Ale, 5.4% ABV, 440ml can Bradleys

DDZ means Double Dry Zested. And the Whiplash crew mean it. Lemon zest is one of the ingredients. And then there’s Lemondrop hops. The producers say: Lemondrop hops offer strong citrus, floral, fruity, herbal, lemon, mint, green tea, light melon aromas.

Colour is pale, a slightly hazy lemon. Aromas are not overly strong at all but lemon does seep through. It is a velvety presence in the mouth, much smoother than anticipated (thanks in some measure to the oats). While the lemon doesn’t dominate the palate it is quite the lead act, a very pleasant one, velvety with no sharp edges. Quite a lip-smacking thirst quencher at the end.

Here’s what the brewers say: When we say DDZ we mean it, it's packed with delicious, refreshing lemon zest that cuts through beautifully. The base comes from Pilsner, oat and wheat for some very velvety vibes, backed up with additions of Cascade and Lemondrop.

Geeks Bits

Malts - Pilsner, Oat, and Wheat

Hops - Cascade, Lemon Drop, Lemon Zest.

Adjunct - Lemon zest.

******************

Highly Recommended

9 White Deer Stag Bán 4.5% ABV, 500ml bottle

I’ll let the brewers introduce this pale ale themselves:

This classic pale ale was our very first beer and we remain extremely proud of it. We wanted to brew something that felt uncomplicated, direct and true .

But there’s a real subtlety to it - and unlike some other pale ales, Bán is never bland. As with our entire range, it’s also EU certified gluten.

It has a beautiful gold colour, a myriad of tiny bubbles rising towards the top. There are moderately intense aromas, slightly malty. And the palate is along the same lines. It is crisp and refreshing, even lip-smacking, with a gentle spice and mild citrus influence from the hops.And a satisfactory clean finish.

Another excellent beer from the Ballyvourney brewery. 

Highly Recommended.

******************

West Kerry Béal Bán Golden Ale, 5.0% ABV, 500ml bottle, Carry Out Killarney

A dark, slightly hazy gold is the colour of this magical ale from West Kerry. Creamy rather than crisp (hinted at by the malty aromas), yet light and refreshing with malt prominent earlier on, the hops making a show at the finish. A distinctive beer indeed, very impressive. One to be sipped and savoured, no rush.

I drank this in 2012 at Blair’s Inn and also during a visit to Tigh Bhric where the brewery is based. It was then being described as a pale English style bitter. It was then, still is, a light and refreshing golden ale with a slight malty sweetness and a bitter finish, imparted by a generous helping of hops. Indeed, one could see why an English aficionado would feel at home here.

My last encounter got me spouting lyrical, maybe doggerel.

You savour the minutes you spend drinking this Golden Ale. It’s the languid time in summer: you have a glass in your hand and the sun is going down. Not quite there yet. Hanging on. Between pale and dark. Those golden moments. When the Blaskets and its seagulls are in silhouette. 

Sip and savour and put your arm around his or her shoulder. And whisper: “This is the best golden ale in the world”. And, if she or he is sipping the same paradisiacal beer, there’ll be no argument. For what you both are enjoying in these magic peaceful twilight minutes is truly the umami conjured up by the goddess from the Ballydavid brewery of the wild peninsula. Béal Bán, an beoir órga is fearr ar domhain. Draíocht an Daingin.

Béal Bán is one of their core range and like the others, Carraig Dubh (porter) and Cúl Dorcha (red ale), is called after local place names.

Very Highly Recommended.

******************

Ichigo Ichie. Star experience on a rainy night in Cork.

Ichigo Ichie. Star experience 

on a rainy night in Cork. 

Sashimi

No colourful signs (or stars) as you approach Ichigo Ichie on Cork’s Fenn’s Quay. On this rainy night, the only colour on the outside of the premises, on a blacked-out window, was a reflection of graffiti from across the wet street, the entrance just about visible. In the hallway,  you do see a little sign Ichigo Ichie sign, just before the big smiles. The big smile is on your face as you exit a happy hour or two later.

It was certainly on ours as we left, even though the rain was still there, even stronger now, as we had enjoyed a multi-course meal in Takashi Miyazaki’s Michelin-starred restaurant. Like most Michelin places, prices are high here but we had spotted a midweek offer and were so glad that we took advantage.

Chateaubriand

They get a sitting in a little early so that drinks orders may be taken and served and, since the €75.00 menu itself was set, the drinks were about all we had to decide on with the help of friendly and efficient staff. There was a lovely buzz of conversation around the calm space as we went through the lists. 

For me it was always going to be Sake. They have quite a list here and my pick - I’ve had a can (Honjozo) here previously - was the Kikusui-Funaguchi (Honjozo, Niigata). Niigata is regarded as the most prestigious and well-known region and the Honjozo style is when the makers add a little “brewer's alcohol” to lighten the sake and clean things up. My 200ml can was a delight, light-dry taste with hints of sweetness and a fruity finish, followed by a clean and pleasant aftertaste. 

è

CL also enjoyed her choice, the Fanny Sabre Bourgogne Aligoté 2021, a dry, pure, elegant, natural wine, produced only in those years when the fruit is in great condition. It is crisper than Chardonnay but with depth and superb texture, outstanding match for most the meal ahead.

Hassun

With the drinks sorted, we were soon on our way. Beginning with a trio under the title of Hassun, a hat trick of bite-sized  delights. First up was the Tori Yawara maki (chicken though burdock, carrots, haricot vert). Then we turned to the Asparagus Tofu (Lisheen Greens, asparagus and sumiso ). The star though was the Kaki Domyoji age (Rossmore Oyster, puffed rice, Aonori and nitsume sauce).

By the way, I have never quite got the hang of chopsticks but don't worry, knives and forks are available!

Quite a spectacular dish followed, the Mukouzuke. This selection of sashimi was called Kisetsu no osashimi and Yellow Fin, Turbot, Sea Bass (torched), monkfish and oyster were included along with a range of accompaniments that included salmon and trout roe, ginger and a Japanese plant that had similarities to basil. Our servers gave us all the details but not easy to remember them later on!

Tai Meshi

Perhaps the star dish of the evening came next, the Yakimono (refers to a dish cooked over direct heat). Ours was titled Chateaubriand with Caherbeg beef fillet, Hakusai miso, egg yolk, truffle, Singing Frog kinome. The beef was amazing, enhanced by everything around it. That beef comes from the Allshire family farm in Rosscarbery and the kinome (leaves of a Japanese fruit tree in the citrus family) comes from the Singing Frog garden also West Cork based. A big thumbs up for that course.

And the good mood continued, again Singing Frog involved with our Gohanmono course. The Tai meshi came in one bowl and inside were Sea Bream, Singing Frog wasabi, ginger, nori and rice while the other bowl (called Nameko akadashi jiru) had Red miso, Garryhinch nameko, tofu, chive and dashi. 

Course number five was Kanmi (dessert) and was titled Rhubarb, shiso gelato. The rhubarb came from Lisheen Greens and went down very well with the gelato.

Then it was time to settle up and head off into the rain after another memorable meal, thanks to the maestro and gentleman Takashi Miyazaki in Ichigo Ichie. “The kid’s done well “ as they say in football. Indeed he has, come a long way from Molly Malone’s Irish pub in Hiroshima.

* By the way, if a Michelin starred restaurant can serve alcohol in a can, I wonder why are so many local restaurants are “shy” about offering craft beer in a can.

Reflected selfie