Tuesday, March 28, 2023

Best local produce finds a fine home at Harrow in Killarney’s High Street.

Best local produce finds a fine home at Harrow

 in Killarney’s High Street


Chicken

Killarney's Harrow has just reached the 12-month milestone on the town’s High Street and is making quite an impression. It is an impressive building, both inside and out, very comfortable and spacious, with a very friendly staff and, very importantly, local produce is supported and well handled here.

Harrow (where Gabys was)


The culinary team of John, Christian & Zvonimir are bringing all their experience to bear and local producers supported and listed on the menu include Poppadom’s Farm Killarney - Star Seafood Killarney - Spillane’s Seafood Killarney - Tim Jones Killarney - Fenit Veg Tralee - Wild Kerry Game - Terra Foods Tralee - Irish Hereford Prime - Our Chef’s Garden. Local brewers and distillers also feature in Harrow.

Mussels


Interior
The main restaurant, well decorated and lit, is a split-level ground floor room and off to the right and upstairs is a separate party room for around 30 guests. Service is friendly and efficient from welcome to goodbye.



We were soon seated and checking the menus. Some very tantalising dishes here. The produce may be local and Irish but there are some different touches from the continent and beyond. They offer A La Carte and a 3-course set menu (for forty euro where you choose from starred items on the A La Carte).


There is a long wine list here, quite a few by the glass. They have a full bar of course so no scarcity of spirits, cocktails, and beer. Some non alcoholic options too. I often look out for the local beer and we enjoyed bottles from Killarney Brewing (Devil’s Helles) and 9 White Deer (Stag Bán Pale Ale).

Celeriac


After tasting and enjoying their smoked butter on their crispy bread, I started with Hay Baked Celeriac (Salt and Hay Baked Celeriac with Truffle Dressing, Pickled Cranberries & Toasted Pistachios). You don’t see this too often. I enjoyed it very much, light, flavourful and colourful. Happy sounds too from the other side of the table where the Mussels served with Garlic Bread Curried Lemongrass and Ginger went down well. They also had a Garlic and Parsley Cream sauce available for the more cautious.


CL went for a more traditional main course: Chicken Supreme. It was stuffed with Black Wild Garlic, Mushroom & Spinach Arancini, Grilled Butternut Squash, Pickled Chanterelles, Roasting Jus. A splendid dish indeed, packed with flavour and accompanied by Crispy Potato dressed with Confit Garlic.


I haven’t had Pork Schnitzel in a long long time and the Harrow version was excellent in both quality and quantity and served with a very tasty German Potato Salad. The full description is Pork Schnitzel, Celeriac Purée, Herb and Parmesan Dressing, Celeriac Slaw with Jus. A hearty flavoursome dish to watch out for if you visit.


Schnitzel

The dessert list is short, shorter than the list of sweet wines (including ports). Our pick, for sharing, was the Vanilla Crème Brûlée lightly flavoured with Pedro Jiménez, served with Boozy Armagnac Prunes & Cinnamon Biscuit. Yum.



You may be wondering where the restaurant name comes from. Not from the London borough of that name nor from any grand palace or family. It is from the humble farm implement used to break up the soil after ploughing. Apparently, the people behind Harrow have an agricultural background and that shows also in the names on their sophisticated cocktail list. Here, among the classics, you’ll find The Plough, The Hoe, The Oxen, and The Iron Harrow. A haggart full of cocktails then but no sign of the Scuffler! Cheers.



Monday, March 27, 2023

New Stars & Awards in the MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2023


New Stars & Awards in the MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2023

Discover all of the new Michelin Stars, Green Stars, Bib Gourmands and Special Awards in the MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2023
Dessert at Dede



Editor's PickGreat Britain & Ireland 2023Launch EventMichelin Guide CeremonyMichelin Stars



Having already released many new restaurants in our monthly Live Additions, and then taken a sneak peak at the 20 newly awarded Bib Gourmands (which were announced on Wednesday 22nd March), we are now delighted to announce all of the new Michelin Star, Green Star and Special Award winners in the MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2023. These were unveiled on Monday 27th March at the MICHELIN Guide Ceremony which, this year, was held at the iconic Silverstone Circuit in Northamptonshire.

20 restaurants were newly awarded One Michelin Star, 3 restaurants were awarded Two Michelin Stars and 4 restaurants were awarded a Michelin Green Star. Five Special Awards were also announced.


Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal - New Two Star


New Two Star Restaurants
Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal, London
dede, Baltimore
The Ledbury, London

New One Star Restaurants
Àclèaf, Plymouth
Ben Wilkinson at The Pass, Horsham
Cycene, London
Gidleigh Park, Chagford
Grace & Savour, Hampton in Arden
heft, Newton in Cartmel
Heron, Leith
Luca, London
Lumiére, Cheltenham
Pentonbridge Inn, Penton
Restaurant Twenty-Two, Cambridge
sō–lō, Aughton
SOLSTICE BY KENNY ATKINSON, Newcastle upon Tyne
St. Barts, London
Store, Stoke Holy Cross
Taku, London
Terre, Castlemartyr
The Samling, Ambleside
The Tudor Pass, Egham
Timberyard, Edinburgh


SOLSTICE BY KENNY ATKINSON - New One Star
New Green Star Restaurants
Apricity, London
Crocadon, St Mellion
CULTURE, Falmouth
Osip, Bruton


Crocadon - New Green Star


New Bib Gourmand Restaurants
Blaise Inn, Bristol
COR, Bristol
EDŌ, Belfast
Emilia, Ashburton
Evernight, London
Flint House, Brighton
Hām, London
Kushi-Ya, Nottingham
Marmo, Bristol
Plaza Khao Gaeng, London
Queen of Cups, Glastonbury
Root Wells, Wells
Saint Francis Provisions, Kinsale
Six Bells, Witham on the Hill
The Chequers, Bath
The Galley, Topsham
The Pelican, London
The Spärrows, Manchester
Waterman, Belfast
Yr Hen Printworks, Cardigan

Root Wells - New Bib Gourmand


Special Awards 2023

Chef Mentor, sponsored by Blancpain – Michael Deane from Eipic in Belfast
Young Chef – Sarah Hayward from The Coach in Marlow
Welcome and Service – Declan Maxwell and the team from Spitalfields restaurant in Dublin
Sommelier – Tara Ozols from SO|LA in London
Exceptional Cocktail, sponsored by The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. – Makis Kazakis and the bar team from Park Chinois in London

SO|LA - Tara Ozols Wins the Sommelier Award 2023


Click here for the quick links to the full online listings for the UK/Republic of Ireland or download the free MICHLEIN Guide iOS/Android app.


Sign up to our newsletter to keep up-to-date with all things Michelin, from new restaurants and Guide launches to chef interviews, recipes and our latest Best-Of Guides.




Written by MICHELIN Guide UK Editorial Team




MICHELIN Guide Ceremony

MICHELIN GUIDE CEREMONY 2 minutes
The Full List of Michelin Stars in the MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2023


Discover every One, Two and Three Star restaurant in the MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2023
Editor's PickGreat Britain & Ireland 2023Launch Event

MICHELIN GUIDE CEREMONY 3 minutes
4 New Green Stars Added to the MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2023


Explore the 4 new awards and view the full list of Michelin Green Stars for 2023
Editor's PickGreat Britain & Ireland 2023Green Stars

MICHELIN GUIDE CEREMONY 5 minutes
20 New Bib Gourmands Announced for Great Britain & Ireland 2023


Discover more about the latest Bib Gourmand winners and view the full list for 2023
Editor's PickLaunch EventGreat Britain & Ireland 2023
All articles of MICHELIN Guide Ceremony





#MICHELINGuideGBI #MICHELINStar23
@CastlemartyrRes
@chefahmetdede

Dublin's Marker Becomes the First Anantara Hotel in Ireland.

 ‘SETTING DOWN THE MARKER FOR LUXURY’


THE MARKER HOTEL, DUBLIN TO BECOME 

FIRST ANANTARA PROPERTY IN IRELAND

 

Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas has made its debut in Ireland with the acquisition of The Marker Hotel in Dublin, one of the Irish capital's most contemporary and luxurious buildings. The addition of the property in Dublin represents the expansion of the luxury brand’s footprint into Europe, while it will become the very first Anantara property in Ireland.

 

A major project has now commenced which will see the famous Dublin property become known as ‘Anantara The Marker Dublin Hotel’, while significant capital works are also well underway.  The renovations at the property are significant, with multi millions being invested at the iconic Dublin hotel which is a member of Leading Hotels of the World,

 

All of the 187 bedrooms have now been refurbished while the lobby and bar have been refreshed with the addition of new soft furnishings, bespoke cabinetry, and custom furniture.  Meanwhile, work has started on the creation of a new restaurant, ‘Forbes Street by Gareth Mullins’, a destination restaurant, due to open this spring. The new restaurant will feature the very best of local and Irish products served in a contemporary way but with a uniquely Irish twist.

 

Located overlooking the Waterfront on Grand Canal Square in the heart of Dublin City, the property is one of Ireland’s most highly regarded hotels. With its slick architecture and design and its incredible location, the property oozes, five-star international cool.   Set in the heart of Silicon Docks, a nod to Silicon Valley on account of the high concentration of multinational high-tech companies located in the area, the hotel is both striking and eye catching. Close to the International Financial Services Centre (IFSC) and the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, Anantara The Marker Dublin Hotel is a perfect cultural and business epicentre for travelers’ keen to experience classic Irish hospitality at its best. Anantara The Marker Dublin Hotel is the only five-star hotel in the area, which has recently emerged as one of the most vibrant, dynamic and modern parts of the city for living, working and socialising.

 

Anantara The Marker Dublin Hotel has a futuristic design and style and now offers 187 renovated contemporary guest rooms over six floors (42 Premier/ Superior, 124 deluxe rooms, 18 junior corner suites and three suites) plus eight state-of-the-art event and meeting facilities. Services such as a Condé Nast award-winning spa, and stylish rooftop terrace with stunning panoramic 360º views across the cityscape stretching to the sea at Dublin Bay are all part of the experience.


 

 

Michael Davern, the former CEO and General Manager of The K Club now leads the charge at Anantara Marker Dublin Hotel where he is the General Manager.  A seasoned hotelier and a luxury travel guru, Michael is well known for his attention to detail and for the creation of bespoke visitor experiences which are essential for the Anantara brand and its offering.

 

“The Anantara brand is synonymous with luxury internationally, particularly in Asia where the brand originates.  Our international guests are discerning travellers and come to stay with us to be truly pampered but to also experience more.  We are not just a contemporary, cool hotel in a European city we have a whole team of specialists who can add real value to our guests’ stay with us. Our guests want to enjoy unforgettable experiences that create lifelong memories and we offer them the chance to explore, discover and experience more through our bespoke visitor experiences.  We offer our guests the chance to enjoy a deep dive into Ireland’s cultural, sporting and historical life.”

 

“We are thrilled to announce the expansion of our luxury Anantara brand into northwest Europe in the fair city of Dublin. The Marker Hotel is already known as one of the city’s leading hotels and bringing the reputation and luxury touch points of Anantara to the property will further elevate the guest experience,” commented Dillip Rajakarier, CEO of Minor Hotels, parent company of Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas.

 

Ramón Aragonés, CEO of NH Hotel Group, operators of Anantara in Europe, under the guidance and brand oversight of Minor Hotels, said that this agreement will enable us to bring a truly different value proposition to the Irish market for the first time. The Anantara brand will connect travelers with genuine experiences in a privileged location in the city of Dublin.”

 

In the surrounding area visitors to the city can enjoy a walk through the culture and heritage of the Docklands, which dates from the eighteenth century, a wide range of options for foodie travelers, including cosy cafés and high-end restaurants, shopping on nearby Grafton Street, boat rides along the River Liffey and in Dublin Bay or sporting activities from a relaxing yoga class to watching a game of Gaelic football at renowned Croke Park.

 

The Dublin hotel will be the 7th Anantara in Europe, joining Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort in Portugal, the Anantara Villa Padierna Palace in Marbella, Spain, Anantara New York Palace Budapest in Hungary, Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome Hotel in Italy, Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel in France, Anantara Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky Amsterdam in Netherlands.

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press release

Patience Pays For Dunville’s And Echlinville Distillery

Patience Pays For Dunville’s

And Echlinville Distillery

 We were told to expect sherry bombs from Dunville’s Jarlath Watson (right) during Sunday’s masterclass in Cask. No shortage of sherry influences but it seems Dunville are more about patience.

The patience is required to keep their spirit in cask until it is good and ready to go. And then they have a good steady climate (no extremes) in their corner of the Ards Peninsula, more temperate than even areas quite close to them.  


And Jarlath also spoke about the land, part of their own particular terroir. “We are a fifty acre working farm… we grow all our own barley… it is floor-malted (not the most economical method!)." And everything is done within a three mile radius. Thanks to their use of various sherry casks (an endangered species, by the way), they have many different expressions from their own micro-terroir.



This is all centered around the Echlinville Distillery. But while you can get Echlinville gin, you’ll have to wait for their whiskey. The makers have patience and that will have to extend to the customers! Maybe something later this year, if they are ready!


Dunville's is a old Belfast brand that they got in 2011 and fills the gap while waiting for Echlinville very own whiskey. All spirits for the Dunville are bought in and finished in sherry casks. Dunville’s has quite a fascinating story. Founded in 1808 and originally produced at the Royal Irish Distilleries in Belfast, Dunville’s was was among the world’s most famous whiskey brands until the distillery fell silent in 1936. Read more here.

Ready to roll in Cask


Now it is back and we started in Cask with their Three Crowns, an average age of 7 years, 70% grain and 30% malt “married after five years”. “It is lazy, mellow, chilled out, a light breakfast whiskey,’ said Jarlath, jokingly or not I don’t know!


Sherry didn't really feature in the next whiskey. This cask sample came via Dick Mac’s in Dingle where the casks had been used to produce the Kerry brewery's Honey & Hemp IPA. When they came back to Echlinville, they were filled and left for an expected six months. But they decided to keep it for another two years. Now they feel it is really finished and you may well be able to get their honey prominent whiskey in a couple of months.

Sample #3 was a favourite of mine, and quite a few others, and it is in bottle but you’ll have to travel to Fairley’s in Coleraine to get it as it was especially made for their “very old bar”. It is a 13 year old whiskey, raised in sherry casks from the bar, weighs in at 57% and is very impressive indeed.


On then to another different take, a whiskey made in a rather special Armagnac cask from Gascony (warning: don’t ask for Cognac if you’re in that area). Again Jarlath is expecting more from this one and is gambling on another two years, knowing that patience pays off sometimes as it did with the IPA.


“The big hitters are coming now,” said Jarlath as he introduced a 22-year old whiskey that has spent its last 6.5 or 7 years in Palo Cortado casks. Palo Cortado casks are very scare. “For every 6,000 bottles of sherry sold, just one is PC.” But going by this gorgeous drop, they are worth seeking out!


A 20-year old followed having spent the last 4.5 years in Oloroso cask and came with all the Christmas cake aromas and flavours you’d expect. And it was here that Jarlath reiterated their patient approach: “We don’t put it out too early. We keep it until ready… and then it should be excellent.”


There was one for the road and it was amazing. It was a 21-year old (finished for 3.5 to 4 years in Pedro Ximenez cask). The sweetness of the PX was a  feature of course but the distillery achieved a perfect balance. One to savour as we hit MacCurtain Street, the home of the superb Cork Whiskey festival 2023. Here’s to 2004!



Two More Highly Recommended Red Blends From Château De Caraguilhes In Corbieres

Two More Highly Recommended Red Blends From Château De Caraguilhes In Corbieres

*****************


Château de Caraguilhes Solus Corbieres Boutinac (AOP) 2020, 14.5% ABV, O’Briens Wine 

RRP€23.95 (reduced to 19.16, 10th Mar - 10th Apr)


A blend of Carignan, Mourvèdre and Syrah, makes for a big rich robust red that pairs well with Mediterranean mixed platters. Should be fine too with beef, pasta and veal. Serve between 16-18 degrees.


This deep purple wine is from a fully organic family estate in Corbières and these grapes grow on a rocky clay-limestone hillside in the heart of Corbières' Grand Cru district so there's plenty of berry fruit showing a good depth of concentration.


The aromatics of this deeply purple wine are quite intense - just smell the freshly extracted cork! Ripe blackberry and black cherry are prominent. Lots of different flavours in the mouth, with blackcurrant and plum also added to the mix. Subtle spices, nice rounded tannins too and acidity enough as well. And then comes a fantastic finish.


Very Highly Recommended.


You may have heard of Corbieres. But Corbieres Boute
nac? Corbieres-Boutenac is a relatively new red wine 
appellation of the huge Languedoc region in France
It is called after the village of Boutenac, whose wines have always been highly regarded and was created in 2005.



Château de Caraguilhes Prestige Corbieres (AOP) 2020, 14.5% ABV

O’Briens Wine RRP €19.95. (Reduced to 15.96, 10th Mar - 10th Apr)


No shortage of blends in the Languedoc-Roussillon and this robust red is another, made with Carignan, Grenache, and Syrah. Serve between 16-18 degrees with Ribeye Steak/Aubergine bake.

Dark ruby is the colour, a healthy shiny one. And the aromas are packed with fresh ripe fruit and the promise of good stuff to come. And it comes. Fresh fruit again on the palate, a warm touch of the garrigue as well, but all that power is moderated by a pleasing softness, good acidity too right through to the finalé.

Château de Caraguilhes is a certified organic estate located in the heart of Corbières, a well-known wine appellation within the huge Languedoc/Roussillon region. Located at altitude, the vineyards benefit from sea breezes on one side and the Tramontane* winds on the other, cooling the vineyards at the height of summer, ensuring an ideal, slow ripening of the grapes, which helps to retain a characteristic acidity and freshness in the wines.


Owned by the Gabison family, Château Caraguilhes is one of France's oldest, and best, organic estates. The 135 hectares of vineyards are strategically surrounded and protected by 500 hectares of scrubland, constituting a rich ecosystem and a unique growing environment.


The pioneering estate, farming their vines organically since 1987, has 135 hectares of vines that are strategically surrounded by over 500 hectares of wild garrigue, which provides a rich and unique ecosystem.


Very Highly Recommended.


*A cold wind that blows from the Alps and Apennines (Tramontana in Italy). Quite a lot of winds in this area have names, the Mistral is perhaps the most famous.


*****************

The two wines above are part of a four bottle set that will be featured in an online tasting on Thursday March 30th. Our hosts will be Étienne Besancenot, Winemaker, Château de Caraguilhes and Lynne Coyle Master of Wine, O'Briens Wine Director. The other two, subject of an earlier post, are repeated below. Not too sure if you can still order the wines for the tasting, check here, but they are also part of the company's ongoing French Wine Sale. Details here



Château de Caraguilhes La Font Blanche Corbières (AOP) 2021, 13.5% ABV.

O’Briens Wine RRP: €18.45 (reduced to 14.76, 10th Mar - 10th Apr)


A dry refreshing white, this Corbieres is a blend of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Pair with scallops and citrus, also grilled goats cheese with fennel.

This blend is a light straw colour, clean and bright. Floral notes and white fruit (peaches, apricots) and citrus plus a drift of almonds feature in the aromatics. And you meet the same crew (with citrus now prominent) on the palate, silky and rounded and subtle. Some herbal notes also, after all we are in garrigue country. Beautifully smooth though and this dry refreshing white finishes very well indeed. 


Pairings recommended are with scallops (and citrus), also grilled goats cheese with fennel.


Very Highly Recommended.


Château de Caraguilhes Les Jardins Corbières (AOP) 2021, 14% ABV.

O’Briens RRP €18.95 (reduced to €14.21, 10th Mar - 10th Apr).

Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, have been blended to make Les Jardins, a smooth supple red. Match, it is suggested, with duck breast and Comte Cheese (or why not the local Hegarty’s Templegeal), serving between 16 to 18 degrees.


Exclusive to O'Briens, Les Jardins sends out aromas of ripe blackberry and blackcurrant. The complex palate is silky and fresh with fleshy fruity notes, the smoothness is enhanced by ripe tannins. Very well balanced. Quite a dark coloured wine. Lightweight also but with a 14% ABV.


The term tannin comes from the an ancient word for tanner, and refers to the use of tree bark to tan hides. You’ll also find them in grapes (of course!), tea leaves, pomegranates, spices like Cinnamon and Clove and nuts such as Almonds and Walnuts, Barley, even Rhubarb. It is an naturally occurring polyphenol and is more likely good for you. More on tannins from the University of Kansas study here . 


Highly Recommended.