Saturday, March 18, 2023

Corrin Hill Loop + Detour to Cross

Corrin Hill Loop + Detour to Cross

11.03.2023 (showery, cloudy)

Corrin Hill is between Rathcormac and Fermoy, just off the R639, to your left. Once you pass the large Cork Marts complex roundabout, watch out for signs for the golf club and Coillte. Free to enter and there is a carpark. Once you make the signed detour to the summit, you have a 360 degree view (short video at end) of the surrounding countryside, including the town of Fermoy. Allow about 80 minutes to do the loop and the detour.

Muddy way




Path to summit

Station 2


Path through furze

Fermoy, above and below









Cairn, cross at summit


Bare slope near summit






Wednesday, March 15, 2023

Coming Soon - Online Organic Languedoc Wine Tasting by O'Briens Wine.

Coming Soon Online - Organic Languedoc Wine Tasting by O'Briens 


Featuring the wines of Château de Caraguilhes.



I spotted this tasting a few weeks back and put in my order for the four bottle set. I'm ready now for the online tasting on Thursday March 30th. Our hosts will be Étienne Besancenot, Winemaker, Château de Caraguilhes and Lynne Coyle Master of Wine, O'Briens Wine Director.


Étienne Besancenot studied winemaking in Montpellier after which he made a documentary film called "Les Voix du Terroir" to explain the French notion of Terroir. Filming for this documentary took Étienne to wine regions in Australia, New Zealand, Brazil, Argentina, Chile and France. He also worked grape harvests in Alsace, Spain, and France, and in 2007 Étienne arrived in Caraguilhes with owner Pierre Gabison. Their goal was to renovate Château de Caraguilhes’ vineyards and cellar and pursue their dream of turning the property first organic and then biodynamic.


Lynne Coyle Master of Winesources and selects their wine and Champagne range. One of only 415 Masters of Wine worldwide, she has dedicated her career to the food and drinks industry. Lynne also writes, judges at international wine competitions, is a Wine & Spirit Education Trust Certified Educator and makes her own wines in Spain.


Not too sure if you can still order the wines for the tasting, check here, but they are also part of the company's ongoing French Wine Sale. Details here. I have already sampled two of the wines. The others are the Solus Corbieres Boutinac (AOP) 2020 and Prestige Corbieres (AOP) 2020.



Château de Caraguilhes La Font Blanche Corbières (AOP) 2021, 13.5% ABV.

O’Briens Wine RRP: €18.45 (reduced to 14.76, 10th Mar - 10th Apr)


A dry refreshing white, this Corbieres is a blend of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Pair with scallops and citrus, also grilled goats cheese with fennel.


This blend is a light straw colour, clean and bright. Floral notes and white fruit (peaches, apricots) and citrus plus a drift of almonds feature in the aromatics. And you meet the same crew (with citrus now prominent) on the palate, silky and rounded and subtle. Some herbal notes also, after all we are in garrigue country. Beautifully smooth though and this dry refreshing white finishes very well indeed. 


Pairings recommended are with scallops (and citrus), also grilled goats cheese with fennel.


Very Highly Recommended.





Château de Caraguilhes Les Jardins Corbières (AOP) 2021, 14% ABV.

O’Briens RRP €18.95 (reduced to €14.21, 10th Mar - 10th Apr).


Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, have been blended to make Les Jardins, a smooth supple red. Match, it is suggested, with duck breast and Comte Cheese (or why not the local Hegarty’s Templegeal), serving between 16 to 18 degrees.



Exclusive to O'Briens, Les Jardins sends out aromas of ripe blackberry and blackcurrant. The complex palate is silky and fresh with fleshy fruity notes, the smoothness is enhanced by ripe tannins. Very well balanced. Quite a dark coloured wine. Lightweight also but with a 14% ABV.


The term tannin comes from the an ancient word for tanner, and refers to the use of tree bark to tan hides. You’ll also find them in grapes (of course!), tea leaves, pomegranates, spices like Cinnamon and Clove and nuts such as Almonds and Walnuts, Barley, even Rhubarb. It is an naturally occurring polyphenol and is more likely good for you. More on tannins from the University of Kansas study here . 


Highly Recommended. 

Tuesday, March 14, 2023

Drinking Beer While Dining Out. Elbow Lane and Radisson Hotel. CorkBillyBeers #18: Craft Beer with Food!

CorkBillyBeers #18

Craft Beer with Food!

Drinking Beer While Dining Out

Elbow Lane and Radisson Hotel


Steak in the lane

If you like a beer when dining out, then it's hard to beat Cork’s Elbow Lane as it is both a smokehouse and a brewhouse.

Black Lager
And, unlike some brewhouses, Elbow Lane are always welcoming to new brews. Such was the case the other night. They even dropped their own fantastic stout in favour of the Ukrainian equivalent called Resist* on draught . 

And they also have the terrific Kolsch from 9 White Deer in bottle. We like our Kolsch around here and this one got an unsolicited ringing endorsement from a friend of ours who enjoyed it recently at a concert in the White Horse and said they thought they were back home in Germany.


Two of our party went for the host's Wisdom Ale, another for the Stonewell Cider. But the one I couldn’t resist was another guest in draught: the Schwarzbier  by the Dublin Brewery Hopburgh (a project of JW Sweetman’s).  A few Irish brewers, including Kinnegar, Whitefield, Whiplash and Lineman, have relatively recently brewed in this German style, essentially a black lager. 

The later history of this style goes back to the toppling of the Berlin Wall (according to World Atlas of Beer) and the re-unification of Germany. “What the five East German states brought back to the nation was Schwarzbier.” It had more or less died out in the west of the country. Those states also brought Angela Merkel of course!

Elbow Lane (pic by JR, one of our group).
Looks like 
the chef in action 
through right hand panel of door




The cool fermentation method used places these beers in the lager style and, as it is made from roasted malt, it has a dark colour and so some of flavours of stout. Quite a happy hybrid as far as I’m concerned.

The brewers say that long cold conditioning means the beer is crisp and clean but the use of toasted malts adds texture and a subtle richer flavour.

I can endorse that, a very enjoyable pint indeed, easy drinking - don’t be put off by the black colour. The ABV by the way is 5.2%. And I enjoyed the company so I wasn’t really taking notes. 

Also I enjoyed my terrific Wood-grilled Rib-eye with toasted Cascade butter, with a side salad and fries. Before that, the Smoked lamb sausage, grilled plum mustard, and brussel kraut, was easily dispatched. I think CL has become addicted to their Slow smoked baby back ribs, with that amazing house sauce.

Radisson Venison Hot Pot

A few days earlier, the four of us had been part of a larger group at a “reunion” dinner in the Radisson in Little Island. Lot of changes down there since I was a kid chasing rabbits around a very rural island indeed, the reward then a glass of lemonade at the Dew Drop Inn (now the Island Gate).


What I did notice in the hotel was that they had two taps, one selling Pale Ale and one Lager, and both badged as Hungry Hills. They say they are their own beers and as far as I know they are brewed locally - must check that out! In any case, I can recommended the Pale Ale.


And the food menu is pretty good here too. Watch out for dishes using Andarl Farm produce. This time though, I said I’d go for the seasonal Venison Hot Pot (Braised venison with bitter chocolate and chili seared potatoes) and it was terrific. Those that choose the Fish and Chips were quite happy as were those that had Salmon and also those on the Chicken Burger. 



Resist is loosely based on a recipe released by the Pravda brewery in Ukraine at the start of the conflict. They encouraged all brewers to produce it as a special as they were busy making Molotov cocktails, so our brewers  did. It is a full bodied stout with roasted malt and a kiss of beetroot and is, fittingly, courageously robust! Profits from it go to the International Red Cross.
** One other dining room I enjoy going into is the Mad Monk by Quinlans in Killarney. Here they have just two beers on draught, both from the local Killarney Brewery, the Golden Spear Blonde and, my favourite, the Casey Brothers Stout. Would love sometime to have a head to head between the Casey Brothers and the Angel Stout from Elbow Lane. No losers there, I'd say!
Smoked Lamb Sausage





Monday, March 13, 2023

CorkBillyBeers #15. Craft Stout with 9 White Deer, Brewmaster, and Whitefield

CorkBillyBeers #15

Craft Stout with 9 White Deer, Brewmaster,  and Whitefield

 

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Whitefield Traditional Series Irish Stout 7.5% ABV, 750ml bottle Bradleys

No nitro here, no need for it, just a beautiful smooth and creamy stout with the traditional black colour and tan head (one that hangs about). Aromas are toasty and smokey. And that smooth liquid flows creamily in and across the palate with marvellous toasted and roasted flavours (coffee included), mostly from the “special charring” of the oak barrel.

The alcohol, about 50% higher than usual, is  just about noticeable, pleasurably so, nothing extreme in the overall experience.The stout is, as promised, a wonderfully complex, balanced, smokey and surprisingly light stout, superbly balanced. And you are immediately thinking steak. The Templemore brewery also suggests strong cheese.

This stout is part of their Traditional Series that also includes their Red Ale, and geared for food pairings. Both of these beers come in a 750ml bottle and are aimed at the restaurant business. A very good aim indeed but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy one at home with your favourite steak! Easy to see why this is the winner of the 2016 Food Writers Guild of Ireland Drink Award.


And it is also a favourite at the brewery itself as Cuilan told me during our recent exchanges in advance of the blog post of Feb 21st last. “It represents everything we think here about traditional brewing from an Irish perspective.

 And there could well be more superb stout in the Templemore pipeline: “We want to take Irish Stout up a notch in alcohol but I’m a sucker for balance. Too many beers have wonderful first, second and third sip-ability but completely lose their balance after that and become hard to finish. I think we still have a lot to learn from the wine industry in terms of balance, so we’ll tread carefully while developing this recipe.“  Watch this space!


Very Highly Recommended.



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9 White Deer Stag Stout 4.2% ABV, 500ml bottle


This gluten free Stag Stout, from Ballyvourney’s 9 White Deer, weights in at 4.2% ABV. It is a glossy black colour with a soft tan head. Aromas are rich and full of chocolate promise and that promise is fully delivered in the mouth. Here the chocolate and Madagascan vanilla play quite the most pleasing duet as the rich and smooth beer finds its way around. This is a must try chocolate “block” from the West Cork Gaeltacht; it is distinctive and delicious. Smooth and creamy, all without any nitro!


And Very Highly Recommended.


I first came across this black beauty in Blairs Inn (near Blarney) in the winter of 2017. Richard Blair, one of two brothers now running the pub, told me of a satisfied customer of a few days earlier. A coeliac, the man hadn’t drunk stout, his favourite tipple, for twenty years but, having sampled the Stag, left Blair's Inn with tears of gratitude.


Then Richard’s mother Anne guides us to our fireside table. We begin with some stout infused brown bread! Delicious stuff and, of course, the Stag is one of the ingredients. Then I get to enjoy a pint with my Venison Casserole and it proved a great match for the rich dish of Wicklow venison. That ritual would be repeated in some form or other almost every winter up and including the current one.


They say: Stag Stout is a medium bodied traditional dry Irish stout at 4.2 % ABV. It is designed to appeal primarily to traditional stout drinks, who remember how creamy the pints used to be. The complex recipe we developed brings back to life characteristics that are long forgotten. However this stout is like no other, Stag Stout also happens to be gluten free, the first of its kind anywhere in the world.


This is a double chocolate and Madagascan vanilla stout, with cocoa and vanilla in the ingredients list, also green barley and oats. 


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Recent features on micro-breweries Ballykilcavan, 9 White DeerWhitefield

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Brewmaster Nitro Stout, 4.2%, 440 ml can, 



Dundalk Bay Brewery are confident, to say the least, about this one: Do you dream of Nitro Stout that is as good, if not better than what’s out on the market? Then look no further and join us in a toast to our very own Brewmaster Nitro Stout. … Our unique widget technology in-can gives the most superb cascade effect on pour and a creamy head with richness and body synonymous to draught.

It settles down well, after the recommended vigorous pour, with a smooth black body and a slightly tanned tight head that does hang about for a long while.

After that smooth pour, aromas  speak of coffee and fresh bread. And those toasted warming malt flavours come through as you sip, full-bodied and smooth, full of flavour enhanced by notes of chocolate, honey and hops. 

An excellent stout indeed, very elegant and smooth but lacks that little bit of depth, of devilment, that would propel it to the very top of the list.

As was the case with the Left Hand nitro, I like the theatre at the start and like the finish but the overall experience is all a bit moderate. Nitro is certainly an interesting angle, a comfortable drink,  and well worth a try and I fully understand why quite a few drinkers rave about it.


Highly Recommended.


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Sunday, March 12, 2023

Three Drams, Three Trumps! Plus: Cork Whiskey Fest coming soon!

Three Drams, Three Trumps!

Recently, I came across an early 2021 box from Little Island based Three Drams https://threedrams.com/ie/ . They operate a subscription service, sending you three drams (3C) every month, 2-months or 3-months and follow up with an online discussion where you can join in and get lots of info from the producers. It is an excellent service. My trio, detailed below, were all excellent but it looks as if just the Dingle one is currently available. Then again you may strike it lucky just as I did!


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Cork Whiskey Fest coming soon! Details and tickets here.

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Dingle Single Malt 46.3% ABV

Widely available at c. €55.00



Up to the start of this decade, Dingle had been releasing Single Malts in limited releases, the batches by number. By then though, stock had been built up and they decided this was the time to release a Single Malt that would last into the future (though the intention is to continue to make limited numbered releases available). So what we have here is the core Single Malt and the aim is for continuity, that this particular whiskey will be consistent into the future.


None of this came about by chance. The plan had been there for years. And it wasn’t just stocks of spirit that were required. Dingle style requires predominantly sherry casks and stocks of these rare (and getting rarer) containers also had to secured.


And another element of continuity is the vat where the spirits (61% from those Pedro Ximenez sherry casks, the rest from Bourbon) are matured. There is something of a solera element here as Dingle Master Distiller Graham Coull disclosed on a social media tasting that the vat will not be totally emptied but will “always be topped up”.


He also said that the age of the spirit is in the 5 to 7 year old range and the basis will always be that Pedro Jimenez. “We set our stall out on having a high sherry input so we have relationships to get an ongoing supply of quality casks, not an overnight thing.” Dingle Distillery’s hugely anticipated Core Single Malt release is here to stay. 



This Core Single Malt release has, as you’ve seen, been years in the making and comprises of malt whiskey that has been matured in ex-Bourbon, and PX sherry casks. It is bottled at 46.3% and non-chill filtered. This is a very interesting whiskey in which the component casks come to the fore at different stages.


There’s a striking nose here with a lime zest and crushed mint standing out. Flavours are complex: juicy raisins, Christmas cake and honey, letting you know the major influence of the PX. And the honey and spice linger long. But nothing cloying or heavy here. A well-planned and well executed whiskey, one for the long term!


Killarney 8 Year Old Inaugural Whiskey 46% ABV

Killarney pic

This is the inaugural whiskey from Killarney Brewing & Distilling Company, a premium blend of 8 year-old Irish whiskey, paired with Killarney’s own barrel-aged Imperial stout. A limited edition whiskey, it was finished in their own Killarney small batch Imperial Stout casks. The stout is matured in the same Killarney Whiskey casks and designed to complement the flavours of the whiskey blend. And you do get a large bottle of the stout with the whiskey, at least you did, until the limited issue whiskey sold out!

Only 1092 bottles have been produced of this unique offering and it is in celebration of the year The Annals of Innisfallen (Killarney’s “Book of Kells”) were released. This collector’s edition pays homage to the storied monks of Innisfallen Island, located in Lough Leane, Killarney.

Killarney’s Brian O’Leary says the project was “started years ago” and they began to work on it with renowned distiller Noel Sweeney. While the whiskey was maturing, the company’s new distillery and brewery on the Killorglin road was taking shape, a very impressive complex now that includes a 170 seat restaurant and a fantastic cocktail bar on the roof with splendid views over  the spectacular reeks just to the south.


They wanted their first whiskey to be elegant with the beer barrel playing a role but not being allowed to dominate. It was huge effort but they came up with a very drinkable and balanced whiskey and Brian said there was a great response to it. Nose is fresh and light with hints of white peach and pears, flavours of caramel and banana, malt and chocolate, with a smooth and red apple finish. Light, elegant and subtle, as ordered. Perhaps, they’ll try and replicate it in the near future! Just don’t use my favourite Casey Brothers stout - I want that just as it is!


As I write, the Fossa complex is not quite completely open - no tours yet - but you can book a meal in the restaurant and the tap room is also up and running. Keep an eye on their social media for opening times; tours are due to start soon.


The whiskey, which is now sold out, cost €99.95 (including a large bottle of the stout).


Thomond Gate Miguel Hogan 60.11% ABV



Nick Ryan, founder of Thomond Gate Whiskey, has many interests and one is history. And that was how this whiskey came to be known as Miguel Hogan.


Colour is a fairly rich gold with tints of rose. The aromatics are quite a mix, mainly fruity, but also creamy vanilla, honey, even wine gums, all at play. Busy too on the palate with spicy cinnamon and sweet honey, more fruit (pears, grapes) and no real let-up as the finish lingers on. Very interesting balance between the grain and the ruby port cask. Doesn’t drink like a sixty per-center!


Nick Ryan: “Very much a Limerick brand… this is something I wanted to bring back to Limerick.. to put it on the whiskey map. Very pleased to have been able to source from Great Northern.”


And it was also in Great Northern that he, with help from the crew there, found the Ruby Port pipe. “It is straight from the cask, this is full character, big fruity nose… Taste it a bit and then add a drop of water.”


Oh yes, that magic drop of water. It never fails. Just a few carefully counted and inserted drops and everything is enhanced, especially in the mouth where the fruit, spice and honey seem to find a brio that had been in waiting for just a drop of the old H2O.


And Miguel? “..Galloping Hogan, the rebellious hero from the parish of Doon, Co. Limerick. Having following the Irish Brigade to France (in 1691), his service in the French Army was cut short. After duelling with his cousin, he left for Portugal under the punishment of death. Known as Miguel Hogan, his renowned night-time manoeuvres, perfected in the defence of Limerick, were quickly put to good use. In memory of Miguel Hogan and the blood he shed for Portugal, we have sourced a Single Malt Whiskey, which has been finished in a Ruby Port Cask. A tribute to his rebellious spirit, which found hope and peace in his adopted home and with a Portuguese marriage.”


And another little bit of history. “It has been 100 years since Limerick had its own whiskey and in memory, we pay homage to the long lost distillery of Thomond Gate which sat on the banks of the River Shannon between 1809 and 1919. The distillery was named after the fortified city gate which in times before the building of John’s Gate in 1494.”


Thomond make small batches (often just a cask) and release just a cask at a time. If you are (very) lucky enough and come across a bottle of this one on sale, it will set you back around €100.00.



Thursday, March 9, 2023

Picpoul, queen grape in the coastal vineyards of Pinet in the Languedoc

Picpoul, queen grape in the coastal vineyards 

of Pinet in the Languedoc



Reine Juliette Picpoul de Pinet (AOP) 2021, 12.5%, 

€17.00 Bubble Brothers


Picpoul de Pinet comes from a small area (Pinet) in the Languedoc. It is very reliable and this Bubble Brothers import is one of the consistent ones. If you want something to go with your mussels or oysters, this is a banker.


It has a pale gold colour, is bright, with green highlights, in the glass. There are subtle aromatics, floral, citrus and exotic fruit. Impressively ample bodied, it is a pleaser on the palate, no shortage of citrus fruits and a touch of peach as well plus a refreshing minerality. Well balanced then with a dry finish with light saline notes.


The label suggest pairing with with shellfish, fish dishes, poultry and white meat. Bubbles Brothers also go with seafood and say that it is also an excellent aperitif - I’m can heartily agree with that as I’ve had a few of these Reine Juliette going back to 2010. Wine Folly tell us that the perfect pairing may be fried calamari. Serve at around 10 degrees.


By the way, Picpoul means ‘lip stinger’ but, please, don’t let that put you off. It has indeed no shortage of acidity but nothing extreme (no more than Albarino for instance) and it serves to emphasise the variety’s typical freshness and to help ensure balance.


Indeed, if you can’t get your hands on a Picpoul, then Albarino (or Alvarinho in Portugal) would be an excellent substitute (and vice versa). Other grapes that come close are Assyriko, Melon (the grape for Muscadet), Vinho Verde and Sicily’s Grillo.


Picpoul grows well in sandy soils and is nowadays to be found only in coastal vineyards, between Narbonne and  Montpellier, such as those in Pinet itself and the Etang de Thau (a very large lake with high salinity because of its closeness to the coast).


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