Monday, March 13, 2023

CorkBillyBeers #15. Craft Stout with 9 White Deer, Brewmaster, and Whitefield

CorkBillyBeers #15

Craft Stout with 9 White Deer, Brewmaster,  and Whitefield

 

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Whitefield Traditional Series Irish Stout 7.5% ABV, 750ml bottle Bradleys

No nitro here, no need for it, just a beautiful smooth and creamy stout with the traditional black colour and tan head (one that hangs about). Aromas are toasty and smokey. And that smooth liquid flows creamily in and across the palate with marvellous toasted and roasted flavours (coffee included), mostly from the “special charring” of the oak barrel.

The alcohol, about 50% higher than usual, is  just about noticeable, pleasurably so, nothing extreme in the overall experience.The stout is, as promised, a wonderfully complex, balanced, smokey and surprisingly light stout, superbly balanced. And you are immediately thinking steak. The Templemore brewery also suggests strong cheese.

This stout is part of their Traditional Series that also includes their Red Ale, and geared for food pairings. Both of these beers come in a 750ml bottle and are aimed at the restaurant business. A very good aim indeed but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy one at home with your favourite steak! Easy to see why this is the winner of the 2016 Food Writers Guild of Ireland Drink Award.


And it is also a favourite at the brewery itself as Cuilan told me during our recent exchanges in advance of the blog post of Feb 21st last. “It represents everything we think here about traditional brewing from an Irish perspective.

 And there could well be more superb stout in the Templemore pipeline: “We want to take Irish Stout up a notch in alcohol but I’m a sucker for balance. Too many beers have wonderful first, second and third sip-ability but completely lose their balance after that and become hard to finish. I think we still have a lot to learn from the wine industry in terms of balance, so we’ll tread carefully while developing this recipe.“  Watch this space!


Very Highly Recommended.



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9 White Deer Stag Stout 4.2% ABV, 500ml bottle


This gluten free Stag Stout, from Ballyvourney’s 9 White Deer, weights in at 4.2% ABV. It is a glossy black colour with a soft tan head. Aromas are rich and full of chocolate promise and that promise is fully delivered in the mouth. Here the chocolate and Madagascan vanilla play quite the most pleasing duet as the rich and smooth beer finds its way around. This is a must try chocolate “block” from the West Cork Gaeltacht; it is distinctive and delicious. Smooth and creamy, all without any nitro!


And Very Highly Recommended.


I first came across this black beauty in Blairs Inn (near Blarney) in the winter of 2017. Richard Blair, one of two brothers now running the pub, told me of a satisfied customer of a few days earlier. A coeliac, the man hadn’t drunk stout, his favourite tipple, for twenty years but, having sampled the Stag, left Blair's Inn with tears of gratitude.


Then Richard’s mother Anne guides us to our fireside table. We begin with some stout infused brown bread! Delicious stuff and, of course, the Stag is one of the ingredients. Then I get to enjoy a pint with my Venison Casserole and it proved a great match for the rich dish of Wicklow venison. That ritual would be repeated in some form or other almost every winter up and including the current one.


They say: Stag Stout is a medium bodied traditional dry Irish stout at 4.2 % ABV. It is designed to appeal primarily to traditional stout drinks, who remember how creamy the pints used to be. The complex recipe we developed brings back to life characteristics that are long forgotten. However this stout is like no other, Stag Stout also happens to be gluten free, the first of its kind anywhere in the world.


This is a double chocolate and Madagascan vanilla stout, with cocoa and vanilla in the ingredients list, also green barley and oats. 


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Recent features on micro-breweries Ballykilcavan, 9 White DeerWhitefield

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Brewmaster Nitro Stout, 4.2%, 440 ml can, 



Dundalk Bay Brewery are confident, to say the least, about this one: Do you dream of Nitro Stout that is as good, if not better than what’s out on the market? Then look no further and join us in a toast to our very own Brewmaster Nitro Stout. … Our unique widget technology in-can gives the most superb cascade effect on pour and a creamy head with richness and body synonymous to draught.

It settles down well, after the recommended vigorous pour, with a smooth black body and a slightly tanned tight head that does hang about for a long while.

After that smooth pour, aromas  speak of coffee and fresh bread. And those toasted warming malt flavours come through as you sip, full-bodied and smooth, full of flavour enhanced by notes of chocolate, honey and hops. 

An excellent stout indeed, very elegant and smooth but lacks that little bit of depth, of devilment, that would propel it to the very top of the list.

As was the case with the Left Hand nitro, I like the theatre at the start and like the finish but the overall experience is all a bit moderate. Nitro is certainly an interesting angle, a comfortable drink,  and well worth a try and I fully understand why quite a few drinkers rave about it.


Highly Recommended.


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Sunday, March 12, 2023

Three Drams, Three Trumps! Plus: Cork Whiskey Fest coming soon!

Three Drams, Three Trumps!

Recently, I came across an early 2021 box from Little Island based Three Drams https://threedrams.com/ie/ . They operate a subscription service, sending you three drams (3C) every month, 2-months or 3-months and follow up with an online discussion where you can join in and get lots of info from the producers. It is an excellent service. My trio, detailed below, were all excellent but it looks as if just the Dingle one is currently available. Then again you may strike it lucky just as I did!


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Cork Whiskey Fest coming soon! Details and tickets here.

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Dingle Single Malt 46.3% ABV

Widely available at c. €55.00



Up to the start of this decade, Dingle had been releasing Single Malts in limited releases, the batches by number. By then though, stock had been built up and they decided this was the time to release a Single Malt that would last into the future (though the intention is to continue to make limited numbered releases available). So what we have here is the core Single Malt and the aim is for continuity, that this particular whiskey will be consistent into the future.


None of this came about by chance. The plan had been there for years. And it wasn’t just stocks of spirit that were required. Dingle style requires predominantly sherry casks and stocks of these rare (and getting rarer) containers also had to secured.


And another element of continuity is the vat where the spirits (61% from those Pedro Ximenez sherry casks, the rest from Bourbon) are matured. There is something of a solera element here as Dingle Master Distiller Graham Coull disclosed on a social media tasting that the vat will not be totally emptied but will “always be topped up”.


He also said that the age of the spirit is in the 5 to 7 year old range and the basis will always be that Pedro Jimenez. “We set our stall out on having a high sherry input so we have relationships to get an ongoing supply of quality casks, not an overnight thing.” Dingle Distillery’s hugely anticipated Core Single Malt release is here to stay. 



This Core Single Malt release has, as you’ve seen, been years in the making and comprises of malt whiskey that has been matured in ex-Bourbon, and PX sherry casks. It is bottled at 46.3% and non-chill filtered. This is a very interesting whiskey in which the component casks come to the fore at different stages.


There’s a striking nose here with a lime zest and crushed mint standing out. Flavours are complex: juicy raisins, Christmas cake and honey, letting you know the major influence of the PX. And the honey and spice linger long. But nothing cloying or heavy here. A well-planned and well executed whiskey, one for the long term!


Killarney 8 Year Old Inaugural Whiskey 46% ABV

Killarney pic

This is the inaugural whiskey from Killarney Brewing & Distilling Company, a premium blend of 8 year-old Irish whiskey, paired with Killarney’s own barrel-aged Imperial stout. A limited edition whiskey, it was finished in their own Killarney small batch Imperial Stout casks. The stout is matured in the same Killarney Whiskey casks and designed to complement the flavours of the whiskey blend. And you do get a large bottle of the stout with the whiskey, at least you did, until the limited issue whiskey sold out!

Only 1092 bottles have been produced of this unique offering and it is in celebration of the year The Annals of Innisfallen (Killarney’s “Book of Kells”) were released. This collector’s edition pays homage to the storied monks of Innisfallen Island, located in Lough Leane, Killarney.

Killarney’s Brian O’Leary says the project was “started years ago” and they began to work on it with renowned distiller Noel Sweeney. While the whiskey was maturing, the company’s new distillery and brewery on the Killorglin road was taking shape, a very impressive complex now that includes a 170 seat restaurant and a fantastic cocktail bar on the roof with splendid views over  the spectacular reeks just to the south.


They wanted their first whiskey to be elegant with the beer barrel playing a role but not being allowed to dominate. It was huge effort but they came up with a very drinkable and balanced whiskey and Brian said there was a great response to it. Nose is fresh and light with hints of white peach and pears, flavours of caramel and banana, malt and chocolate, with a smooth and red apple finish. Light, elegant and subtle, as ordered. Perhaps, they’ll try and replicate it in the near future! Just don’t use my favourite Casey Brothers stout - I want that just as it is!


As I write, the Fossa complex is not quite completely open - no tours yet - but you can book a meal in the restaurant and the tap room is also up and running. Keep an eye on their social media for opening times; tours are due to start soon.


The whiskey, which is now sold out, cost €99.95 (including a large bottle of the stout).


Thomond Gate Miguel Hogan 60.11% ABV



Nick Ryan, founder of Thomond Gate Whiskey, has many interests and one is history. And that was how this whiskey came to be known as Miguel Hogan.


Colour is a fairly rich gold with tints of rose. The aromatics are quite a mix, mainly fruity, but also creamy vanilla, honey, even wine gums, all at play. Busy too on the palate with spicy cinnamon and sweet honey, more fruit (pears, grapes) and no real let-up as the finish lingers on. Very interesting balance between the grain and the ruby port cask. Doesn’t drink like a sixty per-center!


Nick Ryan: “Very much a Limerick brand… this is something I wanted to bring back to Limerick.. to put it on the whiskey map. Very pleased to have been able to source from Great Northern.”


And it was also in Great Northern that he, with help from the crew there, found the Ruby Port pipe. “It is straight from the cask, this is full character, big fruity nose… Taste it a bit and then add a drop of water.”


Oh yes, that magic drop of water. It never fails. Just a few carefully counted and inserted drops and everything is enhanced, especially in the mouth where the fruit, spice and honey seem to find a brio that had been in waiting for just a drop of the old H2O.


And Miguel? “..Galloping Hogan, the rebellious hero from the parish of Doon, Co. Limerick. Having following the Irish Brigade to France (in 1691), his service in the French Army was cut short. After duelling with his cousin, he left for Portugal under the punishment of death. Known as Miguel Hogan, his renowned night-time manoeuvres, perfected in the defence of Limerick, were quickly put to good use. In memory of Miguel Hogan and the blood he shed for Portugal, we have sourced a Single Malt Whiskey, which has been finished in a Ruby Port Cask. A tribute to his rebellious spirit, which found hope and peace in his adopted home and with a Portuguese marriage.”


And another little bit of history. “It has been 100 years since Limerick had its own whiskey and in memory, we pay homage to the long lost distillery of Thomond Gate which sat on the banks of the River Shannon between 1809 and 1919. The distillery was named after the fortified city gate which in times before the building of John’s Gate in 1494.”


Thomond make small batches (often just a cask) and release just a cask at a time. If you are (very) lucky enough and come across a bottle of this one on sale, it will set you back around €100.00.



Thursday, March 9, 2023

Picpoul, queen grape in the coastal vineyards of Pinet in the Languedoc

Picpoul, queen grape in the coastal vineyards 

of Pinet in the Languedoc



Reine Juliette Picpoul de Pinet (AOP) 2021, 12.5%, 

€17.00 Bubble Brothers


Picpoul de Pinet comes from a small area (Pinet) in the Languedoc. It is very reliable and this Bubble Brothers import is one of the consistent ones. If you want something to go with your mussels or oysters, this is a banker.


It has a pale gold colour, is bright, with green highlights, in the glass. There are subtle aromatics, floral, citrus and exotic fruit. Impressively ample bodied, it is a pleaser on the palate, no shortage of citrus fruits and a touch of peach as well plus a refreshing minerality. Well balanced then with a dry finish with light saline notes.


The label suggest pairing with with shellfish, fish dishes, poultry and white meat. Bubbles Brothers also go with seafood and say that it is also an excellent aperitif - I’m can heartily agree with that as I’ve had a few of these Reine Juliette going back to 2010. Wine Folly tell us that the perfect pairing may be fried calamari. Serve at around 10 degrees.


By the way, Picpoul means ‘lip stinger’ but, please, don’t let that put you off. It has indeed no shortage of acidity but nothing extreme (no more than Albarino for instance) and it serves to emphasise the variety’s typical freshness and to help ensure balance.


Indeed, if you can’t get your hands on a Picpoul, then Albarino (or Alvarinho in Portugal) would be an excellent substitute (and vice versa). Other grapes that come close are Assyriko, Melon (the grape for Muscadet), Vinho Verde and Sicily’s Grillo.


Picpoul grows well in sandy soils and is nowadays to be found only in coastal vineyards, between Narbonne and  Montpellier, such as those in Pinet itself and the Etang de Thau (a very large lake with high salinity because of its closeness to the coast).


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CORK BUSINESSES DOMINATE THE SHORTLIST AS THE GOOD FOOD IRELAND® AWARDS RETURN

press release
CORK BUSINESSES DOMINATE THE SHORTLIST 
AS THE GOOD FOOD IRELAND® AWARDS RETURN
Margaret Jeffares, Founder and Managing Director of Good Food Ireland, and Simon Coveney T.D., Minister for Enterprise, Trade and Employment at launch of highly-coveted Good Food Ireland Awards. 



 

Good Food Ireland® is delighted to announce the shortlisted finalists for its highly-regarded awards. County Cork was revealed to have an impressive 14 finalists shortlisted – the most of any county in Ireland.

The winners are due to be revealed at a high-profile business lunch taking place on Monday 17th April at The K Club, County Kildare.

The awards are unique in their cross-sector approach and core criteria around commitment to local Irish produce and the organisers are delighted to have them back after the Covid enforced gap. They aim to enhance linkages between agriculture and tourism and present significant opportunities for stimulating local production, retaining tourism earnings in the local area, and improving the distribution of economic benefits of tourism to the four corners of the island.

An independent panel of Irish and International leaders including Founder and Managing Director of Good Food Ireland® Margaret Jeffares, journalists John Wilson and Amii McKeever, IFAC Consultant Stephanie Walsh and Executive Chairman and Owner of Odyssey International Kevin Shannon, shortlisted the nominees from those businesses approved by Good Food Ireland®, subject to meeting strict criteria through onsite inspection. The expert panel will select the overall winner following mystery inspections and assessments.

The winners are due to be revealed at a high-profile business lunch taking place on
Monday 
17th April at The K Club (above), County Kildare.


Featuring across 10 different categories, the County Cork businesses who made the shortlist are:

Hotel Of The Year – Hayfield Manor and Celtic Ross Hotel

Culinary Haven Of The Year – Ballymaloe House Hotel

Restaurant Of The Year – Fishy Fishy

Pub Of The Year – The Lifeboat Inn

Shop Of The Year – The Roughty Foodie

Food Truck Of The Year – The Garden Cafe Truck at Ballymaloe Cookery School and CRAFT West Cork at The Celtic Ross Hotel

Excellence In Food Tourism Award – Ballymaloe Cookery School Organic Farm & Gardens

Producer Of The Year (Fish & Seafood) – Ummera Smoked Products and "K'O'Connell Fish Merchants”

Producer Of The Year (Bakery & Chocolate) – Koko Kinsale and Praline

Producer Of The Year (Drinks) – Five Farms Irish Cream Liqueur


The public also has the opportunity to cast their votes for their favourite places across the island of Ireland in the Food Lovers Choice Award. The shortlist will be drawn from the finalists in all other categories. Online voting will commence on Tuesday 7th March and remain open until Monday 20th March.


Other awards of recognition will include Outstanding Contribution to Food Production, Outstanding Contribution to Irish Food/Drink Internationally and Lifetime Achievement Award.


Returning for the first time since pre-Covid, the awards – proudly sponsored by Kerrygold, Irish Farmers Association, Bord Bia, Tourism Ireland and National Dairy Council – will be opened by guest of honour, Simon Coveney T.D., Minister for Enterprise, Trade and Employment, and attended by some 300 guests including business owners, Irish and international chefs, buyers, food and drink writers, media and industry leaders. Anita Mendiratta, Special Advisor to the Secretary General of the United Nations World Tourism Organisation, will deliver the afternoon’s Key Note speech.


Margaret Jeffares, Founder and Managing Director of Good Food Ireland® says: "There is great excitement around the return of The Good Food Ireland® Awards this year to celebrate the successful collaboration of cross-sector businesses working together for inclusive economic growth.


“All of those wonderful businesses who have made the shortlist are a committed collection of passionate and driven people who genuinely capture the essence of Ireland's food and drink, setting it in a cultural context to inspire travellers, international consumers and locals to seek out real authenticity and Irish provenance. All the judges would like to extend our congratulations to them all and wish everyone the best of luck for the 17th April."


See the full shortlist of finalists below. For full details on the individual awards, tickets to the event, and general information about Good Food Ireland® visit goodfoodireland.ie

 


 

About the Awards:

The 2023 Good Food Ireland® Awards are proudly sponsored by Kerrygold, Irish Farmers Association, Tourism Ireland, Bord Bia, IFAC and National Dairy Council.

All businesses approved by Good Food Ireland, subject to meeting strict criteria through onsite inspection, are eligible for the awards. An independent panel of industry experts will create a shortlist of finalists in each of the award categories. Following further onsite mystery inspection and assessment the winners will be selected. The public will also have an opportunity to vote from a shortlist of finalists for their Favourite Place to Eat, Favourite Food or Drink Producer or Favourite Place to Shop in each of the tourism regions across the island of Ireland.

 

Norma Kelly of Mitchelstown's Praline displays some of her delicious sweet things!

FULL 2023 GOOD FOOD IRELAND® AWARDS FINALISTS

Hotel Of The Year

Grand Central Hotel Belfast

Hayfield Manor, Cork

Celtic Ross Hotel, Cork

Anantara The Marker Dublin Hotel, Dublin

The Merrion, Dublin

The Europe Hotel & Resort, Kerry

The K Club, Kildare

The Dunraven Adare, Limerick

 

Culinary Haven Of The Year

The Bushmills Inn, Co Antrim

Killeavy Castle Estate, Armagh

Ballymaloe House Hotel, Cork

BrookLodge & Macreddin Village, Wicklow

Killeen House Hotel & Rozzers Restaurant, Kerry

Cashel House Hotel, Galway

Rathmullan House, Donegal

Ghan House, Louth

 

Restaurant Of The Year

Fish City, Antrim

An Port Mor, Mayo

Prime 74, Tipperary

The Lemon Tree Restaurant, Donegal

Potager Restaurant, Dublin

Woodruff Restaurant, Dublin

Aniar, Galway

Fishy Fishy, Cork

Hugo's, Dublin

 

Pub Of The Year

The King's Head, Galway

The Glyde Inn, Louth

The Tavern Bar & Restaurant, Mayo

Harte's of Kildare, Kildare

Mikey Ryan's Bar & Kitchen, Tipperary

The Lifeboat Inn, Cork

The Oarsman, Leitrim

Rusty Mackerel, Donegal

 

Café Of The Year

Sweet n Green, Clare

Kelly's Kitchen Café, Newport

Farmhouse Café & Bakery, Dublin

GROW HQ, Waterford

Fennelly's of Callan, Kilkenny

The Hungry Bear Café, Wexford

Barrons Bakery & Coffee House, Waterford

Kelly's Café, Wexford

 

Shop Of The Year

The Roughty Foodie, Cork

Country Choice, Tipperary

Buddy's Farmers Market, Dublin

Brogan's Butchers, Meath

Cavistons Seafood Restaurant & Food Emporium, Dublin

Leaf & Larder Delicatessen & Bakery, Kerry

Firecastle, Kildare

 

Food Truck Of The Year

The Garden Cafe Truck at Ballymaloe Cookery School, Cork

CRAFT West Cork at The Celtic Ross Hotel, Cork

Koha Street Kitchen, Sligo

SEABISCUIT at The Strand Cahore, Wexford

 

Sustainability Award

GROW HQ, Waterford

BrookLodge & Macreddin Village, Wicklow

Connemara Smokehouse, Galway

Oriel Sea Salt, Louth

Fish City, Antrim

Atlantis of Kilmore Quay, Wexford

O' Shea Farms, Kilkenny

 

Excellence In Food Tourism Award

Long Meadow Cider, Armagh

Burren Smokehouse & Visitor Centre, Clare

Ballymaloe Cookery School Organic Farm & Gardens, Cork

Wilde Irish Chocolates, Clare

Vintage Tea Trips, Dublin

The Glyde Inn, Louth

Coppenagh House Farm, Carlow

Producer Of The Year – Fruit & Vegetables

"Garryhinch Wood Exotic Mushrooms", Offaly

The Apple Farm, Tipperary

O'Shea Farms, Waterford

Kearns Fruit Farm, Wexford

 

Producer Of The Year - Meat

Coppenagh House Farm, Carlow

Market House Ennistymon, Clare

Calvey's Achill Mountain Lamb, Mayo

Jane Russell's Original Irish Sausages, Kildare

Kelly's of Newport, Mayo

Donabate Dexter, Dublin

 

Producer Of The Year - Fish & Seafood

Burren Smokehouse, Clare

Ummera Smoked Products, Cork

"K'O'Connell Fish Merchants ", Cork

Realt na Mara Shellfish, Kerry

Atlantis of Kilmore Quay, Wexford

 

Producer Of The Year – Bakery & Chocolate

Koko Kinsale, Cork

Praline, Cork

Jinny's Bakery & Tea Rooms, Leitrim

Walshe's Bakehouse, Waterford

Ditty's Bakery, Derry

 

Producer Of The Year - Drinks

Armagh Cider Company, Armagh

Jackford Irish Gin, Wexford

Western Herd Brewing Company, Clare

Five Farms Irish Cream Liqueur, Cork

Dew Drop Inn & Brewhouse, Kildare

 

Producer Of The Year - Dairy

Glastry Farm Ice Cream, Down

The Village Dairy, Carlow

Freezin Friesian, Waterford

Killowen Farm, Wexford

Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheese, Meath

 

Producer Of The Year - Jams & Savoury

Wexford Home Preserves, Wexford

Leahy Beekeeping, Galway

Achill Island Sea Salt, Mayo

Wild Irish Foragers & Preservers, Offaly

Harnett's Oils, Down

Keogh's Crisps, Dublin

 

Producer of the Year

Supreme Award

Outstanding Contribution to Food Production

Outstanding Contribution to Irish Food and Drink Internationally

Lifetime Achievement Award

Good Food Ireland®

goodfoodireland.ie

@goodfoodireland