Monday, February 6, 2023

Greenwich. Passionate café culture in Cork city centre

Greenwich. Passionate café culture in Cork city centre



The lady at the counter is delighted, compliments are flowing to the staff as she pays her bill in the little Cork café. “This is delightful,” she enthuses, “A real café, great food and relaxing music, and in the heart of the city. How long have you been here?”



They explain that the current owner has just celebrated a year in residence but the café has been here for about 20 years. With an incredulous gasp, she questions: “How come I’ve never found it before?” Greenwich is the uber central café in Caroline Street, just behind Brown Thomas that itself faces onto to the main thoroughfare of Patrick Street.


Dermot O’Sullivan is the chef/owner celebrating his first anniversary here in Greenwich and he has the place smelling well, looking well and sounding well! 


Flowers and bright paintings all around, cool jazz and easy swing ooze from the speakers as tempting aromas waft from the kitchen. This gentle melange for the senses, served with smiles and chats, has enthralled many a customer, our happy lady the latest in a long line.



These months, with not much use being made of the outdoor seating (even if it is sheltered), the 20 plus seats inside are busy and buzzing, the punter’s eyes on the glass containers of cakes on the counter, the wall-mounted boards (detailing coffees, teas and wines) and on the menu with its day-long brunch offerings and its lunch list, along with a host of sweet treats.


We get in around 1.45 on a midweek afternoon. There is a short wait for a table and we have the menu to check in the meantime. By the time we’ve read it, the table is cleared and we have a good idea what we’ll be eating.





I had the Reuben sandwich on my most recent call and this time I’m inclined to go for something off that day-long brunch menu and pick the Challah Bread French Toast. It is a tasty and generous plate,  the bread (from the English Market) is dipped in egg and cream, fried in butter until golden and served with crispy bacon  and maple syrup. There is also a homemade fruit compote vanilla Mascarpone version. 


Dermot supports local suppliers. The ever reliable Chicken Inn is one such and CL picks the Chargrilled Chicken Salad with chargrilled red pepper, toasted cashew nuts, dressed Waterfall Farm leaves and pickles served with the café’s homemade honey & mustard dressing. A generous and inviting plateful, accompanied by a couple of slices of their brown bread, is a very satisfying combination of colours, flavours and textures. 



They have a short wine list here but today we pick the beautiful refreshing apple juice from Con Traas’s Apple Farm in Cahir. Coffee is by the Golden Bean and we decide to share a slice of the Lemon Curd Cake. Just as well we shared, as the portion is quite large!


So, heated by the meal and feeling good after the warm welcome and the friendly service and the day’s play-list, we are well equipped for the walk back to the car.




Sunday, February 5, 2023

Harper's Island Wetlands. Feb 2023

Harper's Island Wetlands

(05.02.2023 (trying out new Sony a6100)

Pochard (???)

Fresh Furze




Train leaves junction at Glounthaune heading to Cobh
(and below)


Tidal tracks (and below)


Hides of the Wetlands



Fresh Furze

Well worn seat



Friday, February 3, 2023

STEPPING INTO SPRING AT LYRATH ESTATE, KILKENNY. So much to see and do!

STEPPING INTO SPRING AT LYRATH ESTATE, KILKENNY.

So much to see and do!


Lyrath Estate, on the doorstep of the medieval city of Kilkenny, is a fitting destination to put a spring in your step!  Located just five minutes from the centre of Kilkenny City yet set on 170 acres of mature parkland complete with picturesque lakes, woodland trails and historic gardens. It’s hard to believe when surrounded by nature that the estate is so accessible to the city centre and its many cultural and historical attractions.  Now, with the arrival of spring, the estate is coming to life with signs of nature awakening everywhere.

Step into spring at Lyrath Estate with the ‘Stepping Into Spring’ package.  This midweek experience includes two night’s accommodation with breakfast each morning, a delicious 3-course dinner in The Grill restaurant on one evening with a complimentary cream tea on a day of your choice. (From €185 per person sharing midweek).

 


Lyrath Estate is a resort style property, independently owned hotel, which has been extensively refurbished over the years.  At its heart is a charming 17th century Manor House which has been sympathetically restored and now sits comfortably alongside a contemporary hotel housing 141 bedrooms.

The property includes two restaurants, Yew which serves classic modern Irish and European cuisine, The Grill and Bar which is a casual, bistro style dining experience with a strong emphasis on steaks, gourmet burgers, delicious lobster fresh from the tank and a wonderful selection of cocktails. There is also Tupper’s Bar, a traditional style, cosy bar, and The Conservatory which serves lunch and informal food in the evening. The newest addition is Lady Charlotte’s Drawing Room – an elegant room in the Manor House, where delightful afternoon tea is served.  The décor here is inspired by the botanicals of the estate and has an eclectic and stylish design.



If you wish to enjoy some pampering, be sure to visit Oasis Spa at Lyrath Estate which incorporates several treatment rooms, offering face and body treatments for both men and women.  The thermal suite in the spa includes various heating and cooling experiences and a stunning outdoor hydrotherapy pool with views over the mature, private gardens. On the estate, residents can enjoy walking amidst the private grounds, cycling on the verdant hidden trails or a host of outdoor pursuits including archery and falconry at the onsite Hawkeye School of Falconry where all kinds of birds of prey can be found including owls, hawks and even eagles.

Kilkenny City itself offers lots of local attractions for the explorer such as the Kilkenny Castle, Park & Gardens, St. Canice’s Cathedral, Butler Gallery, or you could step out on Ireland’s Medieval Mile and discover the rich history of Kilkenny. For more information on spring offers contact Lyrath Estate on (056) 7760088 or visit www.lyrath.com



 


 

Top 10 Things to do this Spring in Kilkenny

1.   Hawkeye School of Falconry at Lyrath Estate

 

Meet John & Caroline, Lyrath Estate Falconers, and owners of the Hawkeye School of Falconry. This small family run centre provides a range of memorable falconry experiences, including Hawk Walks (by appointment only). The Falconry School is situated on the beautiful Lyrath Estate in the historic medieval city of Kilkenny.

  1. Kilkenny Castle

Founded soon after the Norman conquest of Ireland, Kilkenny Castle has been rebuilt, extended, and adapted to suit changing circumstances and uses over a period of 800 years. Today, Kilkenny Castle is open to visitors all year round and is largely a Victorian remodelling of the thirteenth century defensive Castle.

  1. Smithwick’s Experience

Located in the heart of Kilkenny city, Smithwick's Experience Kilkenny is a multi-sensory experience that immerses the visitor in the history of Ireland's oldest ale. Harvested from the land, seasoned by history, Smithwick’s has been brewed in Ireland since 1710. Visitors can taste the famous Smithwick’s Ale, while one of their guides explains what makes it so unique.

  1. St Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower

St Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower are an essential part of the structural heritage in the vibrant medieval city of Kilkenny. This ecclesiastical site was founded in the 6th century and named after St Canice. Cill Chainnigh is the Gaelic for the Church of Canice, the church that originally stood on the site in the 6th century. The Round Tower is the oldest standing structure in Kilkenny City. Tourists can enjoy climbing the Round Tower capturing great views of the city (weather permitting).

  1. The Medieval Mile Museum

Located on the 13th century site of St. Mary's cruciform church and graveyard. As the starting point of the 'Medieval Mile' trail, it brings to life Kilkenny's history as Ireland's premier medieval city. Displays of Kilkenny's civic treasures and replicas of some of the High Crosses of Ossory illustrate the local Gaelic monastic heritage and the ancient city's historic role in Ireland.

  1. Jerpoint Park

Immerse yourself in a unique experience of heritage and culture in a very special destination Thomastown in Kilkenny. Unearth the history of Jerpoint Park with a guided tour of the footprints of a deserted 12th century medieval town.

  1. Rothe House and Gardens

A magnificent 17th century Irish merchant's townhouse and garden in the centre of Kilkenny city. The house is open as a museum with artefacts collected by Kilkenny Archaeological Society and feature a splendid garden which has been restored as a 17th century urban garden. Step back in time and see, smell and taste what the Rothe family experienced.

  1. Dunmore Caves

Just 15 minutes from Kilkenny, Dunmore Caves are an awesome sight if you’re looking for off-the-beaten-path activities in Ireland. The caves once bore witness to a brutal 10th-century Viking massacre and legend claims that up to 1,000 people may have been killed a fact supported by the discovery of human remains and Viking coins.

9.     Kilfane Waterfall and Glen

A pristine example of a romantic era garden dating from the 1790s.  Untouched for 200 years, it is a picturesque paradise with a waterfall tumbling its way to a rushing stream and woodland paths.  Tiny bridges sit among ancient trees, wild foxgloves, ferns, and other historically correct 18th century planting.

  1. Go With the Flow

Go with the Flow is a family business based in Kilkenny providing water-based adventures like white water trips and nature/history tours. All the incredible trails are guided by qualified, experienced, and friendly instructors.

 press release

Mescan beer, aphrodisiac foods and the Lovers Warning


Mescan beer, aphrodisiac foods and the Lovers Warning

You been on the Mescan again?

Good food and St. Valentine’s Day are almost synonymous – the next question is, of course, deciding which drinks complement particular aphrodisiac foods. A quick survey of the Mescan range reveals that the artisan Belgian-style beers are an excellent match for many of them. The Lovers Warning on every Mescan beer bottle is of course tongue-in-cheek, but adds an additional saucy Valentine flavour. (The Lovers Warning reads: “Our beer adds to the desire but may take away from the performance.)

 

Aphrodisiac foods and matching Mescan beers

 

Pistachios
A salty, finger-licking dish of pistachios makes a delicious appetiser accompanied by the nutty caramel tones of Mescan Red Tripel, thirst-quenching Mescan Seven Virtues Lager or creamy, smooth Mescan Extra. The choice is yours.

 

Chocolate
Surely one of everyone’s favourites, chocolate features on almost every Valentine’s menu. Mescan Special Reserve pairs beautifully with good, bitter chocolate while Mescan Baltic Porter with its dark chocolate aromas is ideal with chocolate tart and desserts.

 

Oysters
Probably the most famed aphrodisiac, the saline shellfish is a lovely match for Mescan Baltic Porter. Both Mescan Blond and Mescan Saison complement mussels exceptionally well.


 

Salmon
Staying on the marine theme, perfect pink salmon goes like a dream with creamy, rich Mescan Extra. A starter of smoked salmon with traditional brown bread matches Mescan Baltic Porter well. 

 

Avocados and Asparagus
The clean, crisp flavour of Mescan Blond combines like a dream with salads and veg. It’s very low alcohol at 4.8% compared to wines and like all Mescan beers is made without the use of finings or chemicals.

 

Spicy Chili Peppers
Perhaps a surprising aphrodisiac, chili peppers match the spicy notes from the yeast in Mescan Saison exceptionally well.

 

Figs
The subtle sweetness of figs calls for Mescan Special Reserve, evocative of malty, sun-dried fruits.

 


Passion Fruit
OK, not strictly an aphrodisiac but included because of the name. Mescan Extra is a great pairing for fruits and desserts, especially creamy ones.

 

Cheese isn’t a food which springs to mind when thinking of aphrodisiacs, however it is a fact that  some cheese contains the same chemicals (phenylethylamine) as chocolate, so the smell of them increases levels of dopamine in the brain. Most Mescan beers pair well with cheeses, Red Tripel is probably the most versatile and a good match for nearly all cheese. For blues and the stronger tasting ones, Mescan Special, Mescan Seven Virtues Carnal Knowledge and Mescan Baltic Porter are also excellent pairings.

 

Mescan beer takes its name from the monk Mescan who was St. Patrick’s friend and personal brewer. The stylised Mescan logo is a simple, creative representation of Croagh Patrick and the curved swirl represents the water flowing from the holy mountain, which is used to make all the Mescan beers, via a spring well beside the brewery.

 

Mescan Beers are currently available in off licences around the country. They are also available directly through the website www.mescanbrewery.com which also has food pairing notes for the beers.

Beware!


 

The Very Highly Recommended Beers for 2023

The Very Highly Recommended Beers for 2023

(in no particular order!)




January 2023

Strong Blond Ale: Mescan Westport Extra

Porter: West Kerry Carraig Dubh.

IPA: Cotton Ball Fury

Session: Whiplash Rollover.

Barrel Aged Beers: 9 White Deer Stag BA Export Stout; Brehon Oak & Mirrors BA Imperial Porter.

Lager: Kinnegar Brewers at Play #27 Black Lager




 

December 2022

Ales with Wild Yeast: Black Donkey Underworld Rua Amber Ale; Black Donkey Underworld Allta Farmhouse Ale; Black Donkey Underworld Savage Farmhouse /Saison Ale.

IPA: Third Barrel Electric Eyes Idaho & El Dorado IPA

Witbier: Whiplash Alma Witbier 

Stout: Cotton Ball Lynch’s Stout; Dungarvan Coffee & Oatmeal Stout; Lineman (with Craic Beer Community) Pulse Irish Extra Stout; Whiplash The Wake Export Stout; 


Wednesday, February 1, 2023

9 White Deer At Home In Ballyvourney. And On The World Wide Web

9 White Deer At Home In Ballyvourney

And On The World Wide Web


Brewery team (l to r): Gordon, Donal, Iain, Sinead, Eoin

Smaller business sometimes question the value of being on social media. They should have a word with Gordon Lucey, co-founder and director of Ballyvourney’s 9 White Deer.


Take their 20 litre kegs for home consumption as an example. “The shift to home entertaining was happening, even before Covid,” he told me during last week’s visit. The kegs were first introduced by Guinness and Gordon was keeping an eye on it on various internet sites and forums. Quite often people had questions about setting up and so on and Gordon often came in with expert help.


And those interventions paid off, big time, when 9 White Deer started their own keg offering and, with Covid also happening, there was more demand for it especially from outdoor gatherings at homes. Due to his previous form, Gordon and and the brewery already had a trusted foot in the door. “The stout demand exploded. We couldn’t make enough of it, couldn’t cope.” They had to set up regular order-time windows on the Internet. Two hundred kegs would go on offer at 1.00pm on the day and eight minutes later all were sold!







The home kits are still going strong, not as high as at the peak, but “online is still a big thing for us”. 


During that hectic time, Gordon did a condensed diploma course in food manufacturing and management at UCC.  He has nothing but good things to say about it and the people behind it: “It is a great course..it changed my view… The knowledge I got from it helped us through tough times and helped us grow the business.”


Even the brewery’s name came from the big wide world of the net. They found a suitable site and started a competition, with a €500.00 prize. The suggestions rolled in in their hundreds. “Three people came up with the 9 White Deer and the first up won the five hundred. The name was perfect.” So apt, that Gordon and company were a little embarrassed: “So close to it and still we couldn’t see it!”. They took the long way around to find the deer, just like Gobnait (now, if only that saintly woman had Google!).

Thanks to all at Fia Bán for the céad míle failte!


While taking refuge in Inisheer in the Aran Islands during the Middle Ages, Clare-born Gobnait was visited by an angel who told her she should look for a place where she would find nine white deer grazing. She found the exact number of white deer in Ballyvourney and here she lies. She founded a religious order, raised bees, helped the sick and even saved the village from a plague.

Gobnait and the white deer.
Sculpture by Seamus Murphy RHA


The brewery was founded in the Gaeltacht village of Baile Bhuirne (Ballyvourney) in 2014 by Don O’Leary and Gordon (the first brewer). Donal Carey, still with the company, built the first brewery unit and importantly that included a bottling line. In 2020, Don stepped down to concentrate on his other business interests, and Gordon’s partner Sinead stepped in and they now own it and are the directors. Sinead has a strong financial experience and, according to Gordon, “keeps us on the straight and narrow” and helps out in a host of other ways.

Gordon and Sinead don't agree on everything!


Currently, they produce six beers regularly. Stag Bán, Stag Stout (green barley and oats are key ingredients), Stag Kölsch, Stag Rua are regarded as core. Black Lightning, a high ABV IPA, is a regular but not quite core, “a bit of an outlier” according to Gordon. 


They had a very busy opening period in 2014 for a variety of reasons. Common sense was used. They didn't go and try to make every style of beer in a hurry but carefully followed what people were drinking (lager and stout) and concentrated on those at the start. Contract brewing was an earner and they also did packaging for other breweries until demand grew for their own range of beers. The brewery enjoys great relationships with other brewers.

Changing faces of their bottles.


Their Kölsch, their most popular beer, grew from those early days, with help from the local water and a famous German brewmaster. We got a very good idea about the water while visiting St Gobnait’s area close to the village, quickly getting soaked during a "soft" shower. 


Soft is the operative word here as the water, from the Cork and Kerry mountains, is really soft, just perfect for lager style beers. And the guidance they got from Roland, then brewmaster of the well known Munich brewery Augustiner and still a friend of the Ballyvourney brewery, could not have been bettered. Kolsch and 9 White Deer were on their way.



The brewery is not noted for doing specials. But that could be about to change, at least to a degree. Just before Christmas they launched their Export Stout collaboration with West Waterford’s Blackwater Distillery and had a lot of fun doing so. I think it is just a brilliant stout and Gordon confirmed that it is going down very indeed with their customers. 



Plans are afoot to do a Bohemian style Pilsner in a few months time, one that will spend some ten weeks in one of the nine tanks in their packed Fermentation Hall before release. They don’t rush their beers here and the quality is all the better for that policy. Watch out too for their monster Mexican Imperial Stag Stout, chilis included in this 13.5% bad boy. Looks like current brewers Eoin Layton and Iain Mooney will be kept very busy!



So how do they get all these superb beers out there? They look after all draught sales themselves through Donal Carey. And you’ll see them on the shelves of many SuperValu and Centra Stores. Gordon: “Musgraves have been great for us, very supportive.”


And he is equally full of praise for their distributors Classic Drinks (via Sysco).  I had asked him had they thought of canning? “We had that bottling plant from day one and we’ve stuck with it as bottle sales have increased year on year with a huge amount of credit for that going to our distributors Classic Drinks.” By the way that trusty line can fill 1.5k bottles in an hour!


So now, all the beers are in place. How do you spot them on the shelves? 

“A few years back we went to an agent for a brand refresh and that was very helpful. Now we have taken on Fintan as a marketing person full-time. He has been and is a huge help in planning, designing, responsible for the recent Export badge and the new labels.”

9 White Deer Kolsch is widely available.
I enjoyed this pint in Bantry's Maritime last year.


If you look closely at the label you’ll see the words Gluten Free on everything they do. “We got help from Coeliac Ireland who worked with us in our quest to give people more choice - it was possible at the time to get GF lagers. We offered our first GF beer in 2015 and the whole brewery turned GF in the next year.’’ It is perhaps the one thing that makes the Ballyvourney outfit stand out from other micro-breweries.


How does 9 White Deer connect with the local area? “We try and do business locally as much as possible. We use Mid Cork Pallets who are just 4 kilometres away. We use local transport from the village. And we sponsor events, particularly those of a charitable nature.” If they can’t get something in Cork or Kerry, they’ll go further afield but try to keep it on the island of Ireland. Their glass, for instance comes from Encirc of Northern Ireland.



We mentioned environmentally friendly and sustainability. Gordon: “These are hugely important to us, in the areas of packaging and transport and energy. We are looking at solar and may be able to raise 40% of our electricity in that way.  We are working with Donal Quinn of ENSO to help with sustainability and ongoing monitoring. Our progress will be posted online for all to see. It is a great idea and does away with greenwashing.”


So there you are. No beating about the bush and no hiding behind it either in Ballyvourney. I reckon Gobnait would approve, might well barter a little honey for a little beer!


 Check out our feature on. Ballykilcavan Brewery, Cop. Laois.