A Quart of Ale± #128. On the craft journey with Farringtons, Bradleys, DOT, ALDI, Roadworks and Outer Place

A Quart of Ale± #128

On the craft journey with Farringtons, Bradleys, DOT, ALDI, Roadworks and Outer Place

**************

A couple of good session beers here.

Farringtons Clever Plucker Session NEIPA, 4.5% ABV, 440ml can Bradleys

Trading for 200 years, Farringtons Mill has sold many varieties of beer over the counter and now they are very proud to be brewing on site. Based on their organic farm in Co.Kildare, the brewery sits alongside Farringtons Mill Pub & Restaurant.

This Clever Plucker New England IPA has a mid-orange colour with a soft white head. Both the aromas and flavours tend towards the tropical, passion-fruit and mango, along with citrus of course. Nothing too extreme in the flavours though and the bitterness is also mid-range (perhaps a little higher) so this could well be a popular beer. It is certainly very drinkable, ideal for a session.

The Farrington Beers, and it is a relatively new venture for them, “include some of the popular craft beer palate as well as appealing to the regular beer lover who wants something refreshing. Not everything needs to be high in alcohol and we are enjoying experimenting with beers that you can drink without worrying how you will feel the next day….Farringtons Brewery is all about fresh, crisp wholesome brew that can be shared amongst friends and family.”

DOT Brew Spin Off Series Session IPA, 3.2% ABV, 440ml can Aldi

Lovely soft head atop a gold hazy body. Exotic fruit prominent in the aromatics. Pretty tropical too on the palate, a delightful mixed bag of orange, passionfruit, peach, citrus, mango, apricot too and all present. Mouthfeel is soft and the bitterness levels are low making it pleasant and easy-drinking, just what many prefer for a session.

Geek Bits

Ingredients: malted barley / pale wheat / flaked & malted oats New England style yeast. 

Hops are Centennial (US) and Galaxy (Australia) round drinking. Exclusive to Aldi.

Roadworks Early Start Non-Alcoholic IPA, 0.5%,  500ml bottle Aldi

Amber to dark gold is the colour of this non-alcoholic beer from Roadworks called Early Start. Lots of bubbles make up the white head and no shortage of replacements as herds of them rush to the top. Aside from a touch of malt, the aromas are on the shy side. And it is the pleasant contribution from the malt that gives the palate its flavour.

This 0.5% non alcoholic option is the first in the Roadworks range and is best served chilled. Water, Malted 𝐁𝐚𝐫𝐥𝐞𝐲, Rolled 𝐎𝐚𝐭𝐬, Malted 𝐎𝐚𝐭𝐬, Hops and Yeast are the ingredients. It is brewed by the Pearse Lyons Brewery Dundalk, Co. Louth. Exclusively for Aldi who promote it as having a food-friendly finish.

An Examiner tasting (of quite a few non-alcoholic beers) concluded that it was great value and a good barbecue beer. Maybe so but, for me, the search for a really good Irish beer in the n/a segment continues.

Outer Place Perpetual Dawn IPA, 6% ABV, 440ml can Bradleys

Perpetual Dawn IPA is a new IPA from a relatively new brewery.

And it is not a clear dawn. It is quite hazy with a small-bubbled white top and a mid-orange colour. Aromas hint of mango, citrus and pine. The beer is smooth on the palate but it is here that the more exotic flavours, including mango, exert an undue influence, edging away from my preferences. 

No bother in acknowledging that it’s not the worst strip of Mango-land I’ve been in and that many drinkers will be be quite happy in this over-saturated space. Different strokes for different folks and thanks to the craft beer movement for giving us the choices.

Citra, Simcoe and Cascade are the hops here; ingredients also include oats, and it is juicy and moderately bitter.

**************

Hitting the spot with Gamay and Garnatxa. Two gorgeous reds for your short-list!

Hitting the spot with Gamay and Garnatxa. Two gorgeous reds for your short-list!

Bonne Tonne Cuvée Cléa Régnié (AC) 2019, 13.5%,

Look out for this in restaurants. If you find it in retail (Mary Pawle Wines), expect to pay €34 to 35.

From a small Beaujolais estate, Domaine de la Bonne Tonne, comes this lovely light ruby wine.  Gentle aromas of berries welcome you to the glass, invite you to sip. And you know you’ll have fruit-driven flavours (strawberries, raspberries mostly)  and balancing acidity to enjoy all the way to a soft and sweet spice finish. Another excellent Beaujolais, full of finesse and gently expressive fruit and Very Highly Recommended, from a family winery that I’ve come to admire over the past few years.

They  (Anne-Laure and Thomas) say this wine, “is a bit special for us because it bears the first name of our daughter ‘Cléa’ born in 2017.” Thomas likes to say that it matches his daughter’s personality, which is “full of character.”

No added sulfites or inputs! It is a 100% natural cuvée, 100% Gamay. It is produced in small quantities, hence its name “micro-cuvée”. This cuvée gives a structured wine, with spices and character. However, this spicy side does not dominate and yields to much more subtle and silky aromas.

There are ten crus in Beaujolais: Chiroubles, Saint Amour, Fleurie, Régnié (the most recently created cru), Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Juliénas, Chénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent. It is mostly a red wine area and Gamay is the top red grape. Just two per cent of the harvest is white, mostly Chardonnay, and quite a lot of that, especially in Northern Beaujolais, is sold under the better-known Macon appellation according to Jean Bourjade (Cork 2016), then MD Inter Beaujolais.

Domaine de la Bonne Tonne is a small Beaujolais estate and perhaps best known for their superb wines from the famous Morgan cru, including Les Charmes, Grand Cras and Côte du Py, all three available via Mary Pawle and all three Very Highly Recommended on this blog.

The Gamay grape produces wine that “pairs with all manner of dishes..” According to Wine Folly. Outside of France, “Gamay has a tiny but devoted following.” Happy to be included in the tiny fan base.

************************************************

Top Wines 2022. With Reviews & Irish Stockists. 

************************************************

Dit Celler Selenita Garnatxa Negra (DO Monsant) 2019, 14.5% ABV. 

RRP  about €17.20. The Dairy Toon's Bridge/ Olive Branch, Clonakilty / Mary Pawle Wines

Montsant in Catalonia in the northeast of Spain and is more or less next door to the much better known Priorat. The two produce broadly similar wines but Montsant’s are sold at lower prices. 

Montsant is a relatively new DO (established formally in 2001) and takes its name from a rocky massif that wraps itself around Priorat. Its vineyards, planted on limestone, are situated in picturesque hilly countryside, scattered amongst rocky peaks, woods, almond trees and olive groves. No shortage of diversity here.

Importer Mary Pawle says if you are fond of the robust wines of Priorat “then this Montsant from the opposite valley should please. A powerful wine made from Garnacha, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Firm tannins and well suited to hard sheep’s cheese or ref meat dishes.”

You’ll know straightaway from the slow-clearing legs or tears on the walls of your glass that this is a high alcoholic wine. Colour is a dark ruby.  Intense dark fruit aromas (plum, cherry, cassis), toasty notes too. Powerful yet velvety on the palate, elegant, deeply flavoured and tannins by now well-integrated (you’ll get a soft reminder on the lips), smooth spice, and the long finish echoes the palate. A big hug of a wine and Very Highly Recommended.

The producer: Vibrant and complex, this wine is made with grapes from very old vines, and aged in French oak for 18 months. ….the "Marinada", the cold wind that enters the mountains in the afternoon from the Mediterranean Sea, give the wines a special freshness, characteristic of this area.

Are you a Selenita? Now that we know about Montsant, how about the name of the wine? The Selenita are the inhabitants of the moon and the producers infer that some of their night-time magic has been bottled. You too are free to use your imagination! While we’re on it, the winery is named after its founders Dani Sánchez (from Azul y Garanza in Navarra) and Toni Coca, so D and T (DiT).

To mark World Grenache day in September, Decanter Online published a list of 18 top scoring examples to try. No less than fourteen of them were from Spain! Details here. 

************************************************

Best Value Wines 2022. With Reviews & Irish Stockists. 

************************************************

Taste of the Week. Killeen Cheese

Taste of the Week

Killeen Cows Milk Cheese

Taste of the Week

October 2022 has been quite a good one for cheesemaker Marion Roeleveld and her team at Killeen Farmhouse Cheese in County Galway. On the 5th, at the British & Irish Cheese Awards 2022 in Bath, their cows milk cheese (Kilmora) was named as the Best Irish Cheese. 

Marion even scored a double at Bath as their goats cheese (mature) won the Best Goats Cheese Special Award. Killeen (indeed best known for their goats milk cheeses) are of course quite used to winning awards and have a long list to their credit.

The Swiss-style cows milk cheese, which is produced at Portumna, took the trophy after more than 500 cheeses were judged in a single day at The Bath & West Showground on Wednesday 5 October, as the awards returned following a two-year hiatus. It took a 50-strong judging panel two rounds before the country winners were decided. Killeen have their own goats and they get cows milk from a neighbouring farmer. 

I got email confirmation of the results the following day and that very morning, by coincidence, I had bought a wedge of their cows cheese from the Gubbeen stall at the Mahon Point Farmers Market and, after sampling a sliver or two, decided without hesitation that this would be our Taste of the Week. And so it is! 

It is an Emmental type hard cheese. It is clean, nutty, savoury with a gentle tang, deliciously creamy and well worth seeking out at Mahon Point and also at On the Pig's Back. More info on stockists and the cheeses here.

Cracking Wine and Warm Welcome in MacCurtain Wine Cellar

 Cracking Wine and Warm Welcome in MacCurtain Wine Cellar

The MacCurtain Wine Cellar has just celebrated six months in business and is already making its mark on the busy street, now a go-to destination for eating and drinking with a huge choice of venues and styles to choose from.

The Cellar is essentially a wine shop where you may select your purchases from a huge wall of wine. Don't worry though, you'll have lots of excellent advice, given with knowledge and a rare enthusiasm, not to mention charm. If you wish to drink on the premises, that is no problem in the evenings. And while wine is their priority, they also provide some very tasty small plates and sharing boards as well.

They are owners Trudy Ahern and Sean Gargano, both very experienced in the restaurant industry and thrilled to have finally been able to establish a small business of their own here in Cork's Victorian Quarter. Trudy’s career was as a restaurant manager while Sean was (and is!) a sommelier, drinks buyer and bar manager. The team is completed by sommelier Paris who is "our front of house whiz". You'll find ex-charcuterie butcher Bryan Rudd (who is now studying wine) mostly in the little kitchen.

West Kerry Saucisson, pickles & bread

After a warm welcome from Sean, we were soon sipping our wines and enjoying our small plates. They have a varying list of about 20 wines by the glass, plus some fortified wines as well. We settle on the Trepat by Succéss from Catalonia (Spain).  The grape is new to me and Sean explained that is close to Gamay. It is a light-bodied aromatic red, close to what you get either in Beaujolais or the Jura. Well worth a try. 

We were in more familiar territory with the Holzer Grüner Veltliner from the Wagram in Austria. It was fruity (tree fruits), zingy and refreshing, lime and pepper on the nose and versatile with the food. 

Macroom Ricotta with Squash, Hazelnut and Speck on toast

Food may not be number one here but the short list offers a pleasant accompaniment to the wines. Along with the two pictured, we had the options of Smoked Almonds; Nocellara Olives; Bread, Butter and Tapenade; Cheese Board; Charcuterie Board; a plate of Burrata, Mozzarella and Bresaola; and more. Very happy with the two that we chose!

We were never going to leave without getting a bottle or two from the fantastic range on the wall, all organic, biodynamic or natural. I picked the Godello and Treixadura blend from Monterrei while Sean suggested the Celler del Roure Cullerot Blanco. He was very enthusiastic about this winemaker and about the future of wines from the Valencia area. Looking forward to trying the pair in the weeks ahead and they are likely candidates for our Good Value Wine List.

Check menus and opening times and stay up to date with MacCurtain Wine Cellar (who also do pop-ups and tastings) by following their Instagram here.

A decade of de-LISHH: One of Cork’s best-loved cafés is celebrating 10 years in business

press release

A decade of de-LISHH: One of Cork’s best-loved cafés is celebrating 10 years in business

Jonathan Sheehan, LISHH. founder.

 

LISHH founder recalls humble Turner’s Cross beginnings as he pays warm tributes to staff, suppliers, and customers for their support since 2012

 

Ten years ago this week, Jonathan Sheehan opened a little café in Turner’s Cross, he was one of two staff and they had six seats for customers. Back then, LISHH Café was Jonathan’s’ brainchild and the ethos was simple:  Serve delectable dishes and sweet treats using only the best local Cork produce and ingredients with a smile.

 

It is an ethos that remains today and has proved hugely effective for Jonathan as it has seen him grow LISHH exponentially over the last decade, at the same time firmly establishing them in the hearts of their loyal customers and the general public.

 

Fast forward to 2022, there are now eighteen employees and LISHH Café and locals will know they are now situated in a significantly larger premises at Dosco Business Park on South Douglas Road.

 

LISHH has become synonymous with tasty food and great customer service. The café has extensive menus including breakfast, lunch, starters, dinner, coffee, and dessert. In addition to this, they also offer bespoke catering services for all types of events and occasions. Most recently LISHH has been assisting other hospitality businesses with recent chef shortages, providing their desserts and dessert menus to restaurants who need them.

 

The brand is widely renowned and respected across Leeside, with the café, catering, and Jonathan himself winning a host of accolades over the years, including:

 

• Best Café in Cork for five years - Business Cork Magazine
• Best Catering in Cork in 2019 – Business Cork Magazine
• Café of the Year – 2018 - Hi Style Awards
• Businessman Of the Year 2019 - Hi Style Awards
• Best Customer Service 2021 – Business Cork Magazine

 

All the while, the company has survived a global pandemic and has further expanded recently with the opening of another side venture at the weekend – The Egg Café – which was in the Black Market but has now relocated to Cork’s best gastro-economic hub, the Marina Market.

 

It has been a whirlwind journey for Jonathan, and he is quick to pay tribute to his partner and their families, in addition to staff, customers, and local suppliers who have supported LISHH over the years:

 

He said: “I could not have done any of this without my partner Patrick, he is always by my side, he has been a rock for me and our families have also been an unwavering support to us throughout both the highs and the lows.

 

“We have also been so fortunate with our staff and our customers over the years, and I am incredibly lucky to have the team I have. I recently promoted two of my staff – Rita and Kathriona - to both kitchen supervisor and restaurant supervisor and they have both flourished so much in their roles. Because of this I have been able to side-step a little to develop The Egg Bar. I never have to worry because I know that my staff all support me and support each other.

I like the look of their French Toast (from LISHH Facebook). 

 

Because there is such a small team of us, we really have become family. I see them like part of my family now and we are all a part of each other’s lives now outside of LISHH, from births, to weddings, to funerals, and anniversaries.

 

We always try to support and nurture staff to help them to grow both personally and professionally and recently one of my younger staff who joined LISHH when he was fifteen, doing the washing up, has gone on to MTU to study to be a chef.  Watching and being a part of his journey has been amazing.”

 

Speaking on pivoting through the pandemic, Mr. Sheehan added: “Keeping the brand going throughout the pandemic was challenging but our customers were incredible, and we would not be here without all of their support over the years. I would just like to say a heartfelt thank you to all of them.

 

It took us three days to set up our online web shop which allowed us to start doing home delivery services. We could also see how much some of our elderly customers appreciated seeing us, and seeing their faces light up was so heart-warming. This is something that we will always strive for - just make someone’s day a little bit brighter or make their lives easier with some tasty food and a warm smile.”

 

“We’re very Irish in the sense that we feel that a nice sweet treat and a cup of tea or coffee can help make a bad day better and that’s all we want to do, just have a positive impact on someone’s day with our food and our hospitality – it’s our job to help them along the way and give them a bit of joy.

 

“We are extremely excited for the future of LISHH, the opening of The Egg Bar at Marina, and meeting new and old faces in the near future and beyond.” Jonathan concluded.

 

LISHH Café is open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 3pm. The Egg Bar at the Marina Market is open from 8am to 6pm daily.

 

Visit www.lishhcatering.ie for a sample menu and check out LISHH on Facebook @LishhCork, follow them on Instagram @lishhcafecatering, and Twitter @lishh2. For enquiries, email info@lishhcatering.ie or call 021 4893010. 

 

VEGETARIAN AFTERNOON TEA WITH A QUAY TWIST COMES TO CORK

 VEGETARIAN AFTERNOON TEA WITH A QUAY TWIST COMES TO CORK

Menu delights include Artichoke hearts-spelt scones with vegan cream-avocado chocolate cake

The Quay Co-op, one of Ireland’s flagship vegetarian restaurants and wholefood stores, is introducing a brand new Vegetarian and/or Vegan Afternoon Tea which, fittingly, will be launched on World Vegan Day which takes place on November 1st. 

Vegetarian and Vegan Afternoon Tea will be available in the ‘Upstairs at the Co-op’ restaurant on O’Sullivan’s Quay, Cork. Guests will be treated to a mix of vegetarian and vegan savoury and sweet treats from 2.30 to 5.00pm Wednesday to Saturday, alongside the all-day dining menu.

The Quay Co-op is a worker’s co-operative and the home of Cork’s first vegetarian restaurant and cafe. It has been at the heart of Cork life since 1982 and is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year. 

Simon Tiptaft, General Manager of the Quay Co-op says, “Our Vegetarian and Vegan Afternoon Tea is a chic and tasty new addition to our offering at the Quay Co-op. It gives Cork diners an opportunity to experience a deliciously different afternoon treat. All of our food at The Quay Co-op is exclusively vegetarian and vegan and our focus is on sourcing sustainable and ethically produced food while creating delightful dishes to please all palates. Our team from ‘Upstairs at The Quay Co-op’ Restaurant have created a delicious selection of sweet and savoury dainty dishes to be enjoyed from a perfect perch overlooking the River Lee. The Quay Co-op is for everyone and this will appeal whether you’re vegan, vegetarian, want to incorporate a more plant based lifestyle or just like good food.”

On the menu is: 

Savoury: Vegan avocado wraps, Mezze plate with artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers, traditional hummus, dolmas, toasted almonds and marinated olives served with seeded pitta

Middle: Spelt scones with (vegan) cream and raspberry jam

Treat: Avocado chocolate cake, Apple crumble pot and Glazed carrot cake. 

Vegetarian or Vegan Afternoon Tea is €22.50 per person or €29.50 for sparking afternoon tea with a glass of prosecco. A festive edition will be served throughout December, featuring warming organic Gluhwein and will cost €27.50 per person.

The Quay Co-op began as a community cooperative before developing into a workers' cooperative. Today it employs 50 people between its vegetarian deli, bakery, wholefoods store and restaurant on O’Sullivan’s Quay, its vegetarian food-production facility on Cove Street and satellite stores in Carrigaline and Ballincollig. It continues to be owned by its members. 

Upstairs at the Quay Co-op Vegetarian Restaurant is open for lunch, Afternoon Tea and dinner Wednesday to Saturday from 12 noon. For more information visit www.quaycoop.com

press release

The Irishman Whiskey review. Plus news from Jameson & Fercullen.

The Irishman Whiskey review. Plus news from Jameson.

*****************************

The Irishman Single Malt 40% ABV

This Walsh Whiskey single malt has been raised in Bourbon and Sherry casks and, on first glance, you can detect a little extra colour. And there are also some hints in the aromas with a soft sweetness of dried fruits, in with the richness of the malt, plus vanilla notes along with floral notes.

It’s a good start and the palate doesn’t disappoint either. Excellent flavour and complexity and a lingering finish with a light maltiness and sweet oak. Toothsome fruit stays the course right through to the finalé where the honeyed malt and the oak reassert themselves with an elegant subtlety. Really superbly balanced and very satisfactory all round. 

Bernard Walsh has earned a lot of credit for his choices in the production and the whiskey itself has picked up a string of awards including a gold at “The World Spirits Competition” in San Francisco and again in ISW Germany. Not to be sniffed at.

Produced by Walsh Whiskey using Bourbon and Sherry Casks. The triple distilled malt was sourced from the Bushmills distillery in County Antrim.

Enjoyed this one very much indeed. So I’ll be keeping an eye on the Irishman. Next “job” for me is to check out the distillery’s flavour wheel. Would you like to see which Irishman suits you? Click here 

The Irishman is widely available around the €52 mark. I didn’t buy a bottle but, as a member of the Hip Flask Club, I got mine filled with close to 180mls (6 ozs) at Bradley’s, North Main St, Cork.

******************************************

press release

Introducing Jameson Single Pot Still

*****************************

press release

Powerscourt Distillery Unveils a Very Special Limited Edition Fercullen 21-Year-Old Single Malt

RRP for this edition, limited to just 8,000 bottles, is €225 and available now

The Powerscourt Distillery announces its latest launch, its oldest release of Fercullen whiskey to date. The inaugural 2022 release is a marriage of 21-Year-old Single Malt whiskey matured in ex-bourbon barrels, with a selection of Oloroso Sherry and Pedro Ximénez finished whiskeys.

 

The collaboration of blending from Head of Whiskey John Cashman and Head Distiller and Blender Paul Corbett was inspired by the atmospheric bodegas of the Andalusian region of Spain. The finished whiskey combines the region's distinctive dark fruit sherried flavours with the soft elegance of 21-year bourbon matured malt whiskey.

 

John Cashman, Head of Whiskey for Powerscourt Distillery, said, “This is the oldest whiskey expression released by Powerscourt Distillery to date, “this aged single malt will become an exclusive annual release, with the vintage year prominent on the label. I believe this Single Malt is destined to become one of the great Irish whiskeys of the modern era”.  

Paul Corbett, Head Distiller and Blender, said, “This blend was a marriage of 70% bourbon, 20% Oloroso and 10% PX sherry casks. The sherry component was first matured in bourbon barrels before finishing for a further two years in European oak.  21 years in bourbon barrels imparted a beautiful vanilla sweetness to the whiskey when combined with the dried fruits from the sherry casks and drying spice/structure from the European oak we created a single malt with an amazing depth of flavour and complexity.”

Bottled at 46% ABV, non-chill filled, Fercullen 21-year-old Single Malt will be available online at www. PowerscourtDistillery.com  from the 30th of September and selected off-licences around the country.

Official tasting notes:

Nose: Honeydew melon, lychee, rich vanilla fudge, pe ar drops and soft leather.

Palate: Vanilla fudge with dried fruits, dark chocolate with orange oil, and cracked hazelnuts.

Finish: Sweet fudge, candied cherries, fruit cake and drying spices.

Impromptu Dinner Stop at Radisson Little Island

Impromptu Dinner Stop at Radisson Little Island

At the end of a day long road trip last week, a quarter of us popped into the Radisson in Little Island for main dish. This is at least my third time there this year and it has always worked out well. Well priced food and an increasing emphasis on Irish produce.

Mayo's Andarl Farm is one of the Irish producers that pop up on the menu and a colleague enjoyed one of their excellent Pork chops. The Maple Glazed Pork Cutlet came with Sautéd greens, spiced carrot and grain mustard reduction and went down very well indeed (all for a reasonable €15.50). I forgot to take a picture of that one!

PANFRIED HAKE AND ALSACE BACON

Wild mussel and white bean cassoulet with Saffron Cream was

my pick. Could have done with a few more beans but overall this was a most satisfactory main dish. Indeed, the impromptu pit-stop worked out

very well indeed. Quite a wide range of choices here. By the

way, the changeover from daytime to evening menu happens at 5.30pm

CHICKEN SUPREME AND

BRAISED THIGH CHASSEUR

Forest mushroom, plum tomato, tarragon

Cream potato. Another excellent plateful, with a really good chasseur,

was well appreciated by two of our group.