Check out the Kingdom 1795, Kerry Restaurant of the Year.

Check out the Kingdom 1795

Kerry Restaurant of the Year

It's been a pretty good year for Suzi and Damo of Kingdom 1795. (Thanks to Kingdom for use of pic)

“A vegetable is no longer just a vegetable.” Suzi, front of house at Kingdom 1795 in Killorglin as she took our order last week.

“Vegetables are very important to us.” Chef Aitor at Michelin starred Nerua in Bilbao as he showed us his kitchen.

Just like the Basque chef, Suzi emphasised the importance of sourcing local and she and Chef Damien do just that and are thrilled with the momentum building among their growers. And just as was illustrated in Nerua (with a Baked White Onion, topped with a cod skin, pic at bottom), Kingdom 1795 has some gorgeous vegetables in their various dishes.

Garryhinch mushrooms on Wagyu (spoiled chef's presentation to show you!)

One of the highlights for me came with my mains: the Wagyu Beef Blade & Brisket, cabbage, stout mustard, house butter. When I folded back the cabbage, I found a concertina of thinly sliced mushrooms with the most amazing flavour. No wonder growers Garryhinch are adding to their reputation all the time. Amazing stuff and that Wagyu also lived up to its reputation.

CL was also humming away at the other side of the table as she enjoyed her Hake with tender-stem broccoli, scampi and warm tartare sauce, another perfect ensemble of flavours and freshness. And, of course, our side vegetables had also been treated with the utmost respect, another perfect offering gratefully received and dispatched with due diligence - no hurry here.

Pinot Noir

The pace in Kingdom 1975 is more or less classic French, giving time for a drop of wine in between courses or Calvados in Normandy where the pause has a title: Le trou normand (the Normand hole, the “gap” aids the digestion!).

Well, we filled the gap. Our white was the Chardonnay/Moscatel, Bodegas Nodus 2021, (Valencia, Spain), young and fresh with apple and pear and a touch of tropical pineapple and good persistence. The Romanian Pinot Noir, Cremele Recas ‘Legendary’ 2019, was striking, wonderfully fruity with black cherry and raspberry, nicely spicy too (cinnamon) and quite a long and elegant finish. One of quite a few excellent great-value Romanian wines making their way to this country again.

Goatsbridge trout

With the Trou Normand honoured, it was time for dessert: Sliabh Luachra Strawberries, elderflower, caramelised milk. Quite the treat and an excellent finish.

We had started well also, after a warm welcome from Suzi whom we hadn’t seen in three years (you know why!). They had just started in 2019 and then Covid put them to the test. But, like many others, they pivoted and did well with their Eat at Home offerings. Perhaps their most amazing evening came when they offered doughnuts (four in a box). It was a once off but the word got out and soon the queues around the corner “were like Puck Fair” and over 500 were sold.

She and her staff are brilliant around this lovely room and were in top form as always. They had extra good cause last week as they had just been named Best Restaurant in Kerry at the RAI Munster event in the Radisson,  Cork. The Michelin Guide has also called recently and commented: "An old boozer turned into a restaurant to cherish."

Hake

We use Goatsbridge Trout a fair bit ourselves and were glad to see the Kirwans’ produce in one of our starters: Goatsbridge Trout, pickled cucumber, lovage, trout roe. Delicious.

I enjoyed the Dressed Crab, kohlrabi, watercress, horseradish, another delicious dish, slightly delicate but nicely lifted by the Kohlrabi and Horseradish. 

Strawberries

A good start is half the battle. A good start for sure but no battle. Just an exquisite dining experience in the Kingdom.

* The building once housed the Kingdom Bar and the leasing records start in 1795 so that’s where the name came from. Restaurant manager Suzi and Chef Damien are the young couple behind this impressive restaurant in the middle of Killorglin, County Kerry. They honed their skills over three years in the lovely Screebe House in Connemara before taking on the Kingdom. You'll find them on the corner of Main Street and Market Street. And you'll find them online here and on Facebook and Instagram.

Nerua's Baked White Onion

Also on this trip:

Valentia Island's spectacular Bray Head Walk 

Cronin's Yard Loop Walk (near Carrauntoohil)

Superb Killarney Dinner at The Mad Monk by Quinlans

Castlerosse Hotel. Ace Base For The Kingdom

Valentia's Spectacular Bray Head Walk. Skellig Islands Views

Valentia's Spectacular Bray Head Walk. 

Skellig Islands Views.

Blue day at Bray Head. Sheep, sea, and sky.

Starting up the hill. Not the most difficult of walks. Allow about 2 hours 
total for the return trip from the car-park (€2) at the bottom.

On the way back down.

The remains of a signal tower from the Napoleonic Wars,
one of a series around the Irish coast, marks the end of the outward walk.

Come in No 01144, your time is up!

Never saw the place so covered in furze

Little Skellig

Looking down to Portmagee and the bridge to the island.

The Skelligs from the tower.

Skellig Michael

Enjoyed the crepe more than the coffee.
Then went in search of something stronger but the whiskey experience was closed!

All pics above from Aug 2022.

The two below from Apr 2022

The Skelligs are in view all the way up.

View from the carpark.

Also on this trip:

Check out the Kingdom 1795, Kerry Restaurant of the Year

Cronin's Yard Loop Walk (near Carrauntoohil)

Superb Killarney Dinner at The Mad Monk by Quinlans

Castlerosse Hotel. Ace Base For The Kingdom

TASTE OF KILDARE IS BACK! RACHEL ALLEN TO COOK UP A STORM

TASTE OF KILDARE IS BACK!

RACHEL ALLEN TO COOK UP A STORM AT TASTE OF KILDARE-24-25^th SEP
CELEBRITY CHEFS, TOP FOOD PRODUCERS AND GREAT FOOD

AT THE CURRAGH RACECOURSE

Taste of Kildare is back, with ‘in person’, live cookery demonstrations, great food tasting experiences, music and more celebrity chefs and culinary personalities than you can shake a wooden spoon at!  World renowned chef, television personality, presenter and author, Rachel Allen is one of the big names who will be cooking up a storm at Taste of Kildare this year. The culinary festival, which is owned and run by Into Kildare, the tourism body for County Kildare will be held at the Curragh Racecourse during the Autumn Festival of Racing (24-25^th September).  The Curragh will be transformed into a foodie heaven with racegoers being offered the opportunity to taste some of the county’s best food. 

Into Kildare, the promoters of the festival have invited an eclectic mix of well- known Kildare chefs, restaurants, food producers and artisan food innovators to showcase their produce.  Mickael Viljanen (right) of Chapter One Restaurant will be doing live demonstrations in the demo kitchen along with a host of renowned chefs. Over 40 food suppliers, restaurants and food trucks will be in attendance and will offer the public the chance to sample their food and to buy artisan, locally made produce.

The first day of Taste of Kildare, Saturday 24^th of September will run on the same day as the prestigious Goffs Millions, Europe’s richest race for two-year-olds. It will be themed ‘Born and Bred in Kildare’ and will feature food stands and food trucks who will showcase the best locally produced products. 

Just some of the food and hospitality outlets who will be at Taste of Kildare include; The Kildare House Hotel, Scon, The Clanard Court Hotel, Harte’s of Kildare, Firecastle, Domo’s Emporium and The Auld Shebeen Gastro Bar.  Food trucks and mobile food outlets include Gingers Event Catering, Saba Kildare, Nolan’s of Kilcullen and The Osprey Hotel food truck.

For an unsurpassed culinary experience, diners can feast on a seven-course Taste of Kildare menu in the Leger Restaurant where they will enjoy stunning panoramic views of the finish line and the renowned Curragh Plains. Each course features a signature dish from one of Kildare’s restaurants to ensure you really and truly experience a Taste of Kildare. Participating restaurants involved in the seven-course tasting menu include Firecastle, Killashee Hotel, Barberstown Castle, Glenroyal, Hotel, The K Club, Carton House, Fallon & Byrne, Las Radas, Harte’s of Kildare and Two Cooks.

Barry Liscombe, Firecastle

Áine Mangan (CEO, Into Kildare) said, “We are looking forward to the return of the Taste of Kildare as a live event this year. After two years of various lockdowns and restrictions it’s wonderful for people to have the chance to gather again and to enjoy delicious food and drink. Into Kildare is delighted to support local food and hospitality outlets by staging and promoting this event which aligns with our Thoroughbred County Tourism Strategy. The event will offer local restaurants, hotels, and food producers a great opportunity to showcase their products and services to a large audience and will offer them a chance to promote their brand to an engaged clientele.” 

As well as great food, Taste of Kildare will also feature exciting racing, family entertainment with Junior Einstein’s Kildare and live music by ‘Nite Train’ who will play after racing.

Early Bird tickets are on sale now from €15 per person this includes entry into the Curragh Races. Tickets for the Leger Tasting Experience cost from €175 per person and includes seven courses, wine, entry to the races and a premier experience in the stunning Leger Restaurant.

Purchase your tickets for the ultimate racing and culinary experience today! For more information and to purchase tickets see www.tasteofkildare.ie

press release

  

Powerscourt Distillery expands its team

 Powerscourt Distillery expands its team

Karen Noble has joined The Powerscourt Distillery team as Visitor Centre Manager. She brings with her a wealth of experience, having worked in prestigious establishments such as Ballymaloe House, La Stampa, Chapter One, and Luna, among many others, in both Ireland and France. Her experience will allow us to continue to develop our 5-star experience at the Visitors Centre. Karen holds a degree in Hospitality Management and a Masters in Gastronomy and Food Studies. The Distillery team is very excited to have Karen on board and is already benefiting from her vast experience.

Award-winning Distiller & Blender Paul Corbett has joined to head up the Distillery Team and all aspects of production as our Distillery Manager.He will continue to build on the reputation for exceptional spirit from Powerscourt Distillery. He is passionate about Whiskey, having worked as a Lead Distiller at the Teeling Whiskey Company and gaining further valuable experience as Head Distiller of the Clonakilty Distillery, where he oversaw the construction of their distillery and won best Irish new make spirit at the world whiskey awards in their first year of production. Paul was highly commended in the Master Distiller/Master Blender category at the Icons of Whiskey awards in both 2020 and 2001.  The Powerscourt Distillery team are looking forward to exciting new releases with Paul in the coming years.

With a very busy season in the visitor centre, the team goes from strength to strength following the very successful release of the 2 ^nd in the Estate series “The Italian Gardens” earlier this summer, soon to be followed by their own Powerscourt distilled release in the coming weeks.

Having established its core range of award-winning Fercullen Irish Whiskeys – 8 yr. old blend, 10 yr. old Single Grain, 14 yr. old Single Malt and 18 yr. old Single Malt, Powerscourt Distillery have added to their range with the Estate Series –the second limited edition “The Italian Gardens”. RRP€75 is available from all good off licenses.

press release 

A Quart of Ale± #122. On the craft journey with Hope Beer including two new Limited Editions

A Quart of Ale± #122

On the craft journey with Hope Beer including two new Limited Editions

I have often reviewed the beers of Dublin’s Hope in these posts and they are usually pretty good. Recent reviews include regular beers such as Handsome Jack and Underdog.

Hard to beat those that make up their Limited Edition, their Classic Gose a fine example. They are moving on relentlessly with this group and kindly sent on their most recent, Nos 27 and 28, each available widely in 400ml cans.

Hope Limited Edition No. 27 Munich Helles 5.3% ABV

It’s a slightly hazy amber with no shortage of bubbles and a slow sinking head that is foamy and while not snow white, just a little off. Aromas, which are gentle and persistent, are mostly floral plus a touch of herbal. What is outstanding on the palate is the well-judged malty flavour and the long-lasting refreshment at the finish.  Much thought went into this one, the balance is spot-on for the style and the result is really excellent.

They say: This Munich style Helles Lager holds back on hops and bitterness to allow the sweet and full bready flavours of malt take centre stage. Nonetheless there is a noticeable hop presence from the traditional German Hallertau hops used in the kettle and the Whirlpool…….Enjoy it in the garden, or with salty pretzels and bratwurst.

Geek Bits

Serve: 6-8 degrees

Bitterness: 19 IBU

Alcohol: 5.3% ABV

Colour: 8 EBC

German lager types

“Pils” may be Germany’s most well-known lager. Aromatic, crisp and moderately bitter it is refreshing and a terrific session beer.

Maibock is the spring beer (Mai = May). Hops and malts get a turn here. Quite versatile at the table with pasta dishes, salmon, or shellfish recommended.

Märzen has traditionally been brewed in March to be enjoyed at festivals starting in September. Again, there’s usually a good balance between malts and hops and you can enjoy it at Oktoberfest with the schnitzel, brockwurst and game.

Helles can be easily found in Munich, its crisp finish similar to Pils. Cool and refreshing, this everyday beer goes well with salads, shrimp, or fish, an excellent session beer.

There are quite a few other types including Rauchbier. You'll also come across Kolsch which is a hybrid, meaning that its producers employ elements and techniques of both lager and ale.

How To Pour A German Lager From A Bottle*

1. Tilt the glass or stein at a 45 degree angle.

2. Place the tip of the bottle in the glass, and pour the beer quickly down the side.

3. Start to straighten the glass as the beer reaches the top to create a nice head of foam.

* from kegworks.com 

Hope Limited Edition No. 28 Double Rye IPA 8.5%.

This big Rye IPA comes in an attractive amber/orange colour and is quite hazy. The spice of the Rye and the citrus of the Centennial feature in the aromas. And you also meet them on the palate where the interaction is absolutely outstanding.

I was quite taken aback by this, even though I like Rye beers such as Dungarvan’s Mahon Falls Pale Ale, Kinnegar Rye Lager and also their Bucket & Spade Session Rye IPA. Rye is a traditional grain in Scandinavia and Russia, used for both bread and beer. “The baking of bread and the brewing of beer go hand in hand,” said Russell Garet, head brewer at Elbow Lane, at a recent tasting in the tiny Cork brewery. Perhaps the first sentence of this paragraph should start as “I was quite impressed by this…”

Hope balanced the strong influence of the malted rye firstly by “a

mountain of Centennial, the classic American citrus hop, which

we use in the kettle, whirlpool, and in two dry hop additions”.

They also used CryoPop, a new product from Yakima Chief, that

blends various Cryo Hops.

“The result,” they say, “is a huge IPA, which combines the spicy malt flavours of Rye, with the orange and grapefruit flavours of Centennial, all lifted by the tropical fruit flavours of Cryo-Pop hops”. Well worth checking out. But take your time and enjoy this a sip at a time as it is very easy-drinking for a beer that packs an 8.5% ABV.

Whenever, or at least most of the time, I am drinking strong drinks, I think of César Saldaña, then Consejo Regulador in the Sherry region of Spain, and his words during a lecture in Ballymaloe: “When drinking sherry with your meal you should always have a glass of water at hand. When you want to ‘wash’ down the food use the water and then take ‘a few drops’ of the sherry as it goes a long way!” You’ll find that a sip of this excellent beer will also go a long way, so why hurry?

Geek Bits

Serving Temperature: 8-10 degrees

Bitterness: 70 IBU

Alcohol: 8.5%

Colour: 18.5 EBC

Hope American Pale Ale 2022 5.5%, 440ml can Yards & Crafts

Malty. Juicy. Citrusy. It’s a super fresh juicy pale ale dry hopped with El Dorado, Citra, Azacca and Idaho 7.

That’s what Hope say about this American Pale Ale , their summer special for 2022. It is a hazy amber/orange colour and the aromas are citrus and tropical fruit, pretty intense too, as you’d expect from the four hops employed: El Dorado, Citra, Azacca and Idaho 7.

The hops are at work on the palate also and here the balancing comes from the pale malt from Ireland’s South Coast before a zesty finish. Despite all the hops, it has a relatively low bitterness count of 18 IBU.

Geek Bits

Bitterness: 17.6 IBU

Colour: 9.5 EBC

Alcohol: 5.5% ABV

Format: 440ml can

Great with: Picnics. Sunshine & Friends.

*****

Hope produces a core range of five beers which are available all year round as well as two seasonal and a wide range of limited-edition beers. All Hope beers are brewed, bottled, canned and kegged at Howth Junction on Dublin’s Northside.

Why not visit? 

Join us for the best micro-brewery tour in Dublin! Enjoy a guided tour of our state-of-the-art German brewery. Plus enjoy a beer tasting in our taproom while enjoying a great view of the brewery floor. More on tours here.

Taste of the Week. Boyne Valley Bán.

Taste of the Week. 

Boyne Valley Bán (Tomme Style) Cheese

These little holes are also seen in the French Tomme

Tomme? You may well ask. Tomme is an old French name for cheese and you'll find lots of it in Eastern France in hilly and mountainy areas. It has a mild creamy flavour that is pleasant and lasts in the mouth. 

When we, and the kids, used to visit France on holidays, Tomme (usually de Savoie) was always on the shopping list. We liked it and importantly so too did the kids. The Lost Valley Dairy and Creamery near Inchigheela make a semi hard cheese in a Tomme style and it is excellent. Theirs and all the French ones that we ate are made from cow milk.

When I spotted this Boyne Valley Tomme on sale in On The Pig's Back in the English Market, I had no hesitation in buying a wedge. Then when we unwrapped it at home, we realised that it was a paler colour than the French and soon found the reason: it is produced from goats milk. 

Boyne Valley are well known for their goats cheese, including their Blue. Five years ago, they developed this white goats cheese similar in style to the French Tomme cheese. There are very few cheesemakers producing goats tomme cheese on a commercial scale in Ireland and this Bán proved a perfect fit for the market.

We could taste why. It may not have the depth of colour and may lack some of the nuttiness of the Savoie cheese of the French or Macroom versions, but is has the smooth supple texture and enough of its own very pleasant flavour indeed to make it immediately wake up those taste buds, enough to make it our Taste of the Week.

Michael and Jenny Finegan run the 400-goat enterprise together. "We believe the lush grasses of the Boyne Valley produce a unique taste in our ‘Boyne Valley’ goats cheese. The lack of Irish produced Blue Goats Cheese lead to the creation of Boyne Valley Blue and soon after our award winning Bán was also produced here on the farm."

They didn't have to wait for my endorsement. In 2018 Boyne Valley Bán won gold and ‘Best Irish Cheese’ in the British Cheese Awards, received 3 stars and was nominated for a ‘Golden Fork’ award in the Great Taste Awards,  In a relatively short space of time Boyne Valley Bán has grown and has now outstripped Boyne Valley Blue in sales.

A duo of characterful wines, one from the unique Corbieres terroir, the other from the prolific Rhone.

A duo of characterful wines, one from the unique Corbieres terroir, the other from the prolific Rhone.

A Rhone village

Château de Bastet “Aeris” Côtes du Rhone 2019, 13%,

RRP €17.95-€18.25. The Grainey, Scarriff//

Taste, Castletownbere// The Olive Branch, Clonakilty// Mary Pawle

Aeris, from Avignon, is a Biodynamic Rhone white made from (mostly) a blend of Marsanne, Rousanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier grapes. It has a pale straw yellow colour. Aromas are not the strongest but are not delicate either, beautiful and inviting floral scents and ripe fruit too. Initial sip makes a tart impression but soon the fruit (citrus and apricot and exotic too) asserts itself all the way through to a fresh finish. 

Generally, white Côtes du Rhone have a clear and crisp appearance, with a floral and fruit bouquet and a well balanced palate. This “Aeris”, organic and biodynamic, certainly fits that description. Serve at 9 to 11 degrees and you’ll find it is the perfect match to grilled fish, shellfish, fish stew and goat cheeses. Would be a good match too with a vegetable tart or with a chicken dishes. Salade Nicoise too. Pretty versatile.

Château de Bastet lies on the outskirts of Sabran, a village in the Gard region 45 km west of Nîmes and 35 km north of Avignon. The story of Château de Bastet is one of family traditions and a profound love of this land, a passion reflected in the wines made here. Welcome to a truly unique winemaking estate where past, present and future are united under the banner of biodynamic agriculture, a cohesive combination of traditional craftsmanship and the Art of Living.

Highly Recommended and, by the way, well priced. Aeris is one of a trio in the winery’s four elements series. The others are Terram (a fruity red C-d-R) and Ignis (an intense red C-d-R). Don’t think they have a fourth on offer. Might not be appropriate to call a wine Aqua!

Sainte Croix Pourboire Nature 2018, 13%

RRP €18.50-€19: Little Green Grocer,Kilkenny// Organico, Bantry// The Connemara Hamper, Clifden.  

As usual, the Sainte Croix label tells you most of what you need to know about the wine in the bottle. This is the story of this one: terroir -  hautes Corbières - limestone - Carignan - delicious fresh fruit - living soils - soft tannins - wild herbs - passion - wine without compromise. 

Colour is a deep red with purple hints. Crushed blackcurrant leads the aromatics and there’s a floral presence as well and more than a hint of outdoor freshness, perhaps from the local garrigue (popping and cracking in a hot summer). And that melange of fruit and floral, matched by a fresh acidity, all born and bred in the unique Corbieres terroir, makes for a superb palate. Tannins are featherlight, barely a tickle, and the finish is long and satisfying. Very Highly Recommended.

Saint Croix tell us there is nothing added. “Nothing, ie no SO2, yeast, tannins, enzymes, fining products etc etc. A red that remains very close to black fruits and garrigue herbs. From the Free Electron Series. Fermentation in vats at 23-26°C for 15 days, with indigenous yeasts and without input. On fine lees in vats for 6 months; breeding without SO2. Bottled without SO2.”

Sainte Croix in the Languedoc is owned and run by the English husband and wife team of Jon and Elizabeth Bowen, who have extensive experience of working both in classic French stone ‘caves’ and giant, steel wineries in many parts of the world. From first sight of the unique geology and ‘climat’ here, professional intuition made it clear that it is an area of immense potential, a potential they consistently realise in their wines and illustrated well in this lovely wine, a blend of 80% Carignan and  20% Grenache.

Most of the world’s Carignan is grown in the south of France, both in the Languedoc and in neighbouring Côtes Catalanes. Surprisingly, former French colonies Tunisia and Algeria come second and third. While the fruit may have been grown in the Corbieres, it doesn’t get the AOC and is labelled simply as a Vin De France. A rather superb one though!

I read that Wine Folly recommends  Carignan as an “amazing choice for Thanksgiving and holiday fare” as it works well with cinnamon spiced dishes, berry based sauces and smoky meats.