A Quart of Ale± #120. On the craft journey with Lineman, Wide Street and a Treaty City double.

 A Quart of Ale± #120

On the craft journey with Lineman, Wide Street and a Treaty City double

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Lineman Big Calm Brown Ale 6.0%, 440ml can Yards & Crafts

 

“Big Calm is our kind of brown ale,” declared Lineman when they launched the beer late last year. "…We wanted to brew a brown ale that showcased the flavours of chocolate and caramel malts at their best.”

Did they succeed? Let us check. Colour is brown, a dark one with a short-lived tan head. The aroma box may also be ticked: rich coffee, caramel too. 

And that same combo appears in Act 3, filling the stage of the palate with superb flavours. Some of these chocolate/caramel/coffee beers can be over-sweet. No danger of that here because of a streak of tartness that helps provides an excellent balance plus a lip-smacking finish. 

Suitable for vegans, they declare. Suitable for brown ale lovers, I reckon. All boxes checked then.

Wide Street Monksland Belgian Stout 5.2% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

This Belgian style stout from Wide Street pours black and tan (head), just like a stout should. The head doesn’t hang about but that shouldn’t really matter, its lack of staying power more a cosmetic issue rather than an indication of a lack of quality.

There’s a chocolate element to the fore in the aromatics. And you also meet it, with a sweet fruity touch (figs, raisin), on the palate; here you’ll come across a streak of acidity and there’s also a strong presence of roasted malt. 

A stout with a difference and one worth considering for your shortlist. For all that, there are quite few really excellent Irish stouts and, overall, I’m as strongly inclined as ever, to favour the home variety but fair dues to Wide Street for offering this interesting alternative that is well worth a try.

This is unfiltered, unpasteurised and can-conditioned and may  contain yeast sediment. Refrigerate, store upright and pour carefully. Primary fermented with a Trappist ale yeast for an alternative fermentation take on a stout containing no less than five different Belgian malts.

Treaty City Outcast Juicy IPA, 3.8%, 440ml can O’Brien’s Douglas

A cloudy session beer bursting with fruity notes. The massive hop additions during every stage..give rise to tropical fruit flavours and a citrusy aroma. That’s was the build-up from Treaty City, the brewers of this Limerick IPA.

Colour is a very pale orange, a hazy one. It has a “massive” all-American hop line-up of Idaho 7, El Dorado, and Columbus (also known as CTZ), so expect pine, tropical (pineapple), citrus, and a refreshing pungency in the mouth. That is more or less what you get with quite a bit of fruit on the palate before a dry finish. And that US hop trio certainly lend it a hefty hit, no doubting its hoppy credentials in either aromas or flavour. Overall, it is more than a satisfactory session beer.

Malts, put somewhat in the shade by the hops, are: Pale Ale, Munich, Oats, Wheat

Treaty City, the brew/pub is close to King John’s Castle, say: Treaty City Brewery started in a small two bedroomed apartment in East Vancouver, Canada. After a long night of general debauchery, plenty of merriment and many bottles of bland tasteless beer, we decided enough was enough. Something had to be done. Life was too short to drink bad beer. The next morning, while nursing a spectacular hangover we headed for the local homebrew store and purchased our very first brewing equipment….. 

Soon they were brewing at home and not too long after that they found the real home was calling and, back in the Treaty City, they carried on brewing!

Treaty City Harris Pale Ale, 5.0%, 440ml can O’Brien’s Douglas

Named after Limerick’s most famous film-star, this Pale Ale has a lovely golden amber colour with a soft white head. Aromas are mostly citrus, some floral notes and a modest touch of pine. And it proves itself hop-forward and impressively well-balanced on the palate and beyond. Again the citrus (grapefruit) features strongly in the mouth and so too does the malt. And the combination also provides a very satisfactory finish indeed.

Wrote that paragraph about a year ago when I tasted it first. And I see no reason to alter it after tasting it again. 

The Harris Pale Ale (suitable for vegans by the way) is one of the brewery’s first and is named after Richard Harris, swashbuckling on and off the screen and a man who appreciated a good drink. He performed in a huge variety of films over a number of decades including The Guns of Navarone (1961), The Field (1990) and Gladiator (2000).

The label tells us that the malts used are Pale Ale, Caramunich, Carapils. “A generous helping of Cascade hops gives this tawny colored ale a citrus/floral aroma and a grapefruit flavour with a hint of resin. A blend of the finest Pale and Caramel malts gives a complex malt character while keeping the hops in the forefront.”

RELISHING THE CHALLENGE OF RUNNING AN IRISH BUSINESS

press release

RELISHING THE CHALLENGE OF RUNNING AN IRISH BUSINESS

“Even though challenges are daunting, having a challenge is a great thing for anyone” - Yasmin Hyde on growing Ballymaloe Foods

The founder of Ballymaloe Foods says there is a very thin line between success and failure. Yasmin Hyde was speaking during the first ever live NeighbourFood Podcast held as part of the Cork on a Fork Food Festival. She encouraged anyone thinking of setting up a business to start small and to accept any help you can get along the way. 

Yasmin Hyde, the daughter of Myrtle Allen, told the audience at the Crawford Art Gallery in Cork City about how she began producing Ballymaloe Relish in her kitchen using her mother’s recipe. She started Ballymaloe Foods in 1990 and the business continues to grow and now produces a range of relishes, sauces and pickles in their purpose built kitchens located in Little Island, County Cork.

For the first five years, Yasmin worked out of a portacabin in her back garden, and drove around in a hand-me-down Lada delivering the relish to various supermarkets. Ballymaloe Foods now employs 35 people, including Yasmin’s three children and her daughter in law.

Yasmin said, “There is a very thin line between success and failure so any little bit of help is wonderful. The local enterprise office was wonderful, we now work with Enterprise Ireland. I was confident too that I had a good product and if you start small you can find your way along.” 

Reminiscing on one of her earliest food memories, Yasmin remarked eating fresh mackerel the day it was caught. Her mother had taught her that quality ingredients make delicious foods. When asked about what philosophies she has followed throughout her lifetime, it was “attention to detail and trying to do everything right to the best you can”. Yasmin also learned from Myrtle that treating your staff well is crucial. When Myrtle was opening up the restaurant at Ballymaloe House, Hyde recalls that she “didn’t want to bring in trained chefs as they would only want to do it their own way, while she wanted them to do it her way!”.

Aside from the relish, Yasmin is most proud of the Ballymaloe pickled beetroot, as it is the only 100% Irish locally produced beetroot available nationwide. The idea stemmed from passing a farmer at a local supermarket. Without knowing the size of his land, she handed him her business card, and he began growing beetroot for her. 

Yasmin explained, “We were losing industries in Ireland, you used to be able to buy glass, vinegar and sugar in Ireland. I asked what can we grow here and came up with beetroot. I was going in the back door of Supervalu when I met a farmer with beautiful vegetables. He grew beetroot for five years for us, it was washed and picked by hand. Now we’ve moved to a larger farm. The beetroot is selling very well and is taking on all the imported products.”

The Covid-19 pandemic has been the most challenging issue the business has faced, as they lost their food service business overnight, however, their retail business grew substantially. Having thanked her staff for rising to the challenge, she commented that, “Even though challenges are daunting, having a challenge is a great thing for anyone.” 

The full podcast is available to listen here: 

https://shows.acast.com/the-neighbourfood-podcast/episodes/yasminhyde-ballymaloefoods 

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Liberty Grill kitchen offers US and Euro food styles. Excellent menu in the well-loved Washington Street venue

Liberty Grill kitchen offers US and Euro food styles.

Upside down Apple cake with Maple Butter

 Excellent menu in the well-loved Washington Street venue.

In 2011, I met a couple of US food bloggers at The Farm Gate. One of them, Chris from San Francisco, asked if there was any American food influence in the city restaurant. The only one I could think of was the Liberty Grill on Washington Street. Chris was relieved that there was at least one!

Peach JohnnyCakes

Back then at Liberty, you could enjoy dishes such as Marinated Yellow Fin Tuna (Louisiana Style) or a Tennessee Flambé. Generally though the influences came, still come, from America’s East Coast. It is their USP.

In 2010, we asked co-owner Denis O’Mullane how did the concept come about. His answer: “After seeing the room with its large windows and dark furniture, we knew we were going to do an American East Coast Neighbourhood restaurant, where grilled foods make a rather large part of the menu.”

Chicken Salad

And the name? “It is actually a shortened version of our first shot which was ‘Liberty Belle Cafe and Grill’. And the Liberty Grill is as popular as ever as we experienced at lunch there last week where Denis himself was serving as faultlessly as ever! The New England influence is still vital but you’ll see quite a few Irish and European dishes as well, all based on the freshest ingredients, locally-sourced, with seasonal highlights.

The American influences in our lunch came mainly in our desserts, eat h of which was delicious and somewhat different. Mine was the Peach JohnnyCakes, with warm peaches and ice-cream. While CL’s equally delicious pudding was their Upside Down Apple Cake with Maple Butter and cream. Each cost a very reasonable €6.50. Indeed, reasonable and very reasonable would cover all the prices here.

The Johnny Cakes are cornmeal pancakes and also appear on the Brunch menu (runs all day) where the New Eng­land clas­sic made using non gluten and plant based ingre­di­ents can be served with your choice of maple syrup  or warm maple but­ter; also possible to add maple fried banana,  wild blue­ber­ries com­pote, or Caher­beg smoked bacon. Very versatile indeed!

Steak Salad

The mains were also very satisfying here. A seared beef salad (vodka and chilli marinated fillet strips, chargrilled on leaves with balsamic onions, rustic potatoes, red peppers and toasted pecans) was outstanding, a highlight being the palate pleasing combination of the meat and balsamic onions. A terrific dish for €15.50. Last week, I mentioned a head to head between Steak sandwiches from Market Lane and the Oliver Plunkett; this Liberty Grill dish would make another worthy contestant.

CL also hit the jackpot with her Open Chicken Sandwich (grilled chicken with tomato salsa, mango chutney plus lime and coriander mayo on the side and fries also (11.90)). No bother polishing that one off.

No alcohol on the day. I had meant tortry the Posh Belvoir cordial, soda water, mint & lime. It has a couple of different flavours but I forgot! Next time.

Liberty Grill are open to serve Break­fast, Brunch & Lunch, Mon­day to Sat­ur­day, 9am to 3.30pm.

Updates on Facebook here.  Book­ings are pri­mar­ily made by ring­ing 0214271049 and they have online options here.

Stellar programme for 44th Guinness Cork Jazz Festival.

press release 

Stellar programme for 44th Guinness Cork Jazz Festival

A couple of summertime beauties, Prosecco and Rosé, from O'Briens Wine

A couple of summertime beauties, Prosecco and Rosé, from O'Briens Wine

Proverbio Prosecco (DOC) Organic Extra Dry,  11%, €16.95, was 20.45  O’Brien’s Nationwide.

Very light straw colour on this organic and vegan friendly Prosecco and there is a fine head of bubbles with more rushing up to join in. White peach, apple and pear feature in the aromatics, a hint of yeast too, pretty typical of the Glera grape.  

It is fruity and sparkling, soft and fresh with an in-your-face acidity. Recommended as an aperitif (and I can confirm that) and also as a wonderful pairing with oriental cuisine (I’ll have to get another bottle to confirm that one!). Very Highly Recommended.

The producers, The Wine People, had a bit of fun with the name. While Proverbio is Italian for Proverb, it also incorporates three elements that describe the wine well: PRO for Prosecco DOC, VER for Vero (Truly) and BIO for Biologico (Organic).

Wine Folly advises that an extra dry style “is a great place to start with Prosecco”. “You’ll find the best wines come from the hilly areas..around Treviso and Colli Asolani, where the vines produce more concentrated grapes.”

Glera is the grape for Prosecco and indeed it was generally known as Prosecco.  But, a few years back, the growers association changed the name and were thereby enabled, according to Grapes & Wine, to legally “protect the Prosecco name from being used elsewhere in the world”.

Wine-Searcher.com tell us: “Italian wine produced from Glera is almost always either frizzante (fizzy) or spumante (fully sparkling). A few still wines are also made from Glera…”

You probably know that Prosecco is made by the Charmat method. This uses a second fermentation in a large stainless steel tank to trap carbonation in wine. In the Méthode Champenoise, the second fermentation happens inside the individual bottles in which the wines are sold. More on these methods here. 

The bottle weight is bit more than usual, as it the case with most sparkling wines (because of the contents being under pressure). The squat shape is also not usual; this particular one is more like a port bottle and not very different from some of the aged Redbreast bottles.

Château Gairoird Organic Rosé Côtes de Provence (AP) 2020, 13%, €14.96 (was 19.95)

This organic rosé from Provence, a blend that includes Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, has a very pale salmon colour. Quite aromatic with, for me, strawberry leading the charge, also notes of grapefruit and white peach. Strawberry also on the full flavoured palate, raspberry too. By the way, the flavours are quite vigorous, far from the delicate that you sometimes find in rosé. It has good balance too. Plus a refreshing finish from this dry and elegant wine.  Highly Recommended

Perhaps this is more suited to table rather than aperitif duty.  A veal blanquette, cheeses, crab fritters, tuna tartare, grilled salmon, linguine with tomato and olive sauce, are among the dishes suggested.

Here is an extra use for it, one that came about more or less by accident. There was a little of this wine left over towards the end, close to a glass. There was also a little drop of the marvellous Viking Blackcurrant Liqueur in the fridge so I introduced them to each other and this improvised Kir turned out to be quite a treat.You know of course that the traditional Kir is made with white wine and creme de cassis (blackcurrant).

O’Brien’s, the distributors, tell us the Pierrefeu family has owned this estate since 1824 and have farmed it organically for the last ten years. The estate has a maritime climate and benefits from a sea breeze every day which keeps the grapes healthy and disease free without the need for spraying, this is a deliciously elegant textbook Provence. The terroir is classic Provence with free-draining, chalky-clay soil dotted with galets and, with wonderful echoes of Jean de Florette, the Château has its own ‘source’.

On The Country's Independence Day, Ukraine Brewery Obolon to partner with Barry & Fitzwilliam for Irish Distribution

press release

On The Country's Independence Day,

Ukraine Brewery Obolon to partner with 

Barry & Fitzwilliam for Irish Distribution

 

ON THE INDEPENDENCE DAY OF UKRAINE AUGUST 24TH, WE ARE DELIGHTED TO ANNOUNCE THE LARGEST DOMESTIC UKRAINIAN BEVERAGE PRODUCER ‘OBOLON’ HAVE AGREED TO PARTNER WITH IRELAND’S LEADING INDEPENDENT DRINKS’ DISTRIBUTOR BARRY & FITZWILLIAM TO BRING THEIR BEER TO IRELAND.

Obolon went down in history to become the first private company in independent Ukraine by receiving a privatization certificate from the State Property Fund of Ukraine No 1.

The construction of the plant was aimed to provide the country high-quality beer that would meet high world standards. Czech experts who are world-famous masters of brewing were invited as leading experts. They determined the place of construction for the new brewery. The main criteria was the source of artesian water which is the main component that determines the taste of beer. The historical place of the Kyiv city which is located on the right bank of the Dnipro river.

Today the brewery is one of the largest in Europe and the largest domestic beverage company in Ukraine.

The War started by the Russian Federation forced the company to pivot and find an opportunity to continue its activities. Despite the extremely difficult work conditions in wartime Obolon tries to support its employees by providing them jobs and salaries, as well as supporting the military who courageously defend Ukraine and European countries at the cost of their own lives. Today the sources of artesian water that are available to Obolon are used for water production including free distribution to the military and people in war-torn regions of Ukraine.

Obolon corporate enterprises have already provided more than 3 million litres of water free of charge. Additional funds are needed to be able to continue to provide this assistance. With this aim Obolon is launching a project that will allow people around the world to support Obolon in its noble mission. To provide an additional 4 million litres of water, Obolon aims to raise 1 million dollars through 1 bottle of beer. The last bottle of Obolon beer brewed in a peaceful Ukraine. The ‘Last Obolon’ will be auction at a Christie’s auction in NYC bidding starts at $1 million.

Obolon was the first privatized brewery in a post-soviet Ukraine. It became the nation’s household beer, synonymous with freedom and independence. Two things that were taken away from all Ukrainians, the night their country was invaded.

The Last Obolon brewed in peacetime holds an unmeasurable symbolic value, especially to those who have a personal connection to Ukraine. But more than that, it offers a way to donate money, help millions of Ukrainians in need of water and to keep this unrighteous war into the spotlight. Many of the world’s wealthiest people, celebrities, companies and philanthropists have donated amounts far exceeding $1M to Ukraine and are still looking for ways to keep supporting the stricken nation. The Last Obolon helps them do just that.

An Taoiseach Micheal Martin has shown his support in Madrid in June when meeting the Irish Business Community members (image’s via link ) Ireland’s leading independent drinks distributor Barry & Fitzwilliam are very proud to announce their partnership with Obolon. Expecting their first consignment in October, Barry & Fitzwilliam will be donating to Obolons noble mission for every bottle sold in Ireland. Managing Director Michael Barry has said ‘We are very proud to be associated with this venture and we look forward to a successful long-term relationship with Obolon. We are delighted to be able to help the Ukrainian community indirectly.’

Press release

The MET X Maharani Afternoon Tea. A Delicious Fusion Of Cork and Kerala

The MET X Maharani Afternoon Tea

A Delicious Fusion Of Cork and Kerala

Spices from Kerala.

The successful local Rebel City distillery, whose lead product is Maharani gin (with Indian botanicals), and Cork’s Metropole Hotel joined forces to celebrate last week’s Cork on a Fork Fest with an Afternoon Tea.

But one with a difference. The Met's new head chef Vasil Baci took inspiration from the gin and its ingredients to create a taste of India over 3 plates! And that was extended by an Amuse Bouche and we were also treated to a Maharani Gin (with some black pepper cracked in on top, a favourite hack of Pierce Lowney, the hotel’s Food & Beverage Manager).

Distillery co-founders Robert Barrett and his wife Bhagya set up Rebel City in Cork in early 2020. The Maharani is copper pot distilled and, along with the usual suspects, including the essential juniper, distiller Robert has added three botanicals from Kerala. 

One is Pomelo Fruit, officially Citrus Grandis. Then you have Cassia (Cinnamomum Cassia) and also Nutmeg Mace (Myristica Fragrans). All three are sourced from the women’s farming cooperative in Kerala, Bhagya’s home state. Robert is very happy with the Maharani (means high queen): “a fusion of two creative cultures, a gin of truly transcendent taste”.

Scone with Rice Pudding!

And so here we are in the beautiful tea rooms of the Met, relaxing in a Sunday afternoon as two southern cities come together on a series of plates. That relaxation is part of the afternoon tea ritual and so too is the tea (and that wasn’t forgotten here).

The usual formula, savoury, scones and sweet was followed but there was certainly a difference, thanks to the Indian inputs, and here Chef Baci, using the freshest of local produce, was absolutely spot on with the combinations. That skilfully applied enhancing spicy touch of the east was a factor for sure but a subtle one. Very well balanced, as is said in the world of wine tasting.

The Amuse Bouche was a good indicator of what was to come, local and exotic coming together to put us on the way to perhaps the best Afternoon Tea we’ve enjoyed in years. Loved the Star Anise and cinnamon sweet shell tart, Ardsallagh Goats Cheese, roasted red peppers, basil beetroot gel and crushed chili; here the spices and the soft flavours of the cheese and beetroot waltzed gently and satisfactorily on the palate.

Sweet!

Now for the first plate, the Finger Sandwich Selection:

  

Smoked bacon and egg mayo, garden chive mini sweet slider.

Mini spiced chicken tarragon cracked poppadum wrap.

Market Smoked salmon, saffron lemon mayo, Indian style pickled red onion, brown home-made treacle soda bread, Maharani gin spritz.

Aloo Masala bite, Vienna sourdough bread, Mango chutney.

Started that quartet with the lovely slider and then found the following ones as good as the other.

Next up was the Dressed Scone, a homemade buttermilk chai spiced fruit mini scone, whipped vanilla double cream, raspberry jam. Another winner from the kitchen.

Pic by Rebel City.

Now for that final sweet lap, the Sweet Treats.

Vanilla & Passion fruit set lassi, fresh raspberry and mint.

Homemade mini banana bread, pistachio strawberry cream.

Mini coconut and honey pancake roll.

Spiced Rice Pudding.

Mini 73% Chocolate delice.

And there was also an unlisted Macaroon on the plate!

Some really excellent treats here, starting with the lassi, and the banana bread was also a beauty (especially with that cream!). The chocolate lived up to its name. But that Spiced Rice Pudding was my favourite, enhanced no end by the hidden treasure of generous fruit. Terrific end to a lovely relaxing afternoon in one of the most comfortable rooms in the city.

Cheers to Cork and to Kerala and here’s hoping we’ll all meet again with a plate somewhere! 

This was my final outing of the Cork on a Fork Festival, a very enjoyable few days indeed. Here's to 2023!

The Met. A place to relax. (pic by the Met)

The Bookshelf Elysian hosts Cork on a Fork Dinner. And it turns out to be a superb evening!

The Bookshelf Elysian hosts Cork on a Fork Dinner.

And it turns out to be a superb evening!

Sweet sandwich!

The Bookshelf at the Elysian made a rare evening opening to host a one-off 4-course dinner experience for the Cork on a Fork Festival, with a specially created menu filled with produce from the region.  

Goats cheese, beetroot

The dinner, helmed by Head Chef Rebekah Harrington, was class from start to finish and featured an array of top notch local produce.

Pom'O x 2

In between the starters and the mains, we had a Mead interval. The meads, all by the Kinsale Mead Company, were Hazy Summer, Atlantic Dry and Wild Red. They were paired with nibbles that included Gubbeen Smoked cheese and Ballyhooly Blue (whipped) from Fermoy. Both the mead and nibbles impressed and you could see it forming the basis for similar demos at markets and other restaurants. More on Kinsale Mead Co here. 

Cider sparkling in the cloudiness

After a warm welcome, and with live music in the foyer, we were soon checking out the menu. There was a choice of three starters, each with a wine pairing (from L’Atitude 51). Out two were Chicken liver mousse éclair, piccalilli relish and Textures of beetroot, Sunview Goats cheese (from Kilmichael). The pair were shared and each was excellent and easily polished off.

Mead break

After the mead interlude, it was on to the mains. No need for sharing this time as we had each picked Free-range Caherbeg (from Rosscarbery) confit pork belly, blackberries, with Pom’O apple port jus. Just perfect. The pork was excellent and lifted by the amazing Pom’O by Killahora Orchards (that we would meet again at the end).

Pork Belly and that sauce!

Drinks? One was the Ameztoi Txacoli de Getaria Rosado “Rubentis” and the other was an unfiltered and delicious classy cider from orchards just west of the city. Each had plenty of acidity to go well with the pork and hard to pick between the Basque wine and the Irish cider. The only thing missing was that the wine wasn’t poured from shoulder height as they sometimes do in the lovely village of Getaria where this one comes from.

The Basque wine

Time for the sweet then. Two available so we took both. The Sandwich of meadowsweet namelaka and strawberry cremeux was a delicious as you’d anticipate, really well executed while the other, the Blackberry and lemon balm granita, with chocolate aero and candied nuts, was superbly refreshing. Thumbs up for two desserts worth waiting for!

Chicken liver mousse éclair

On then to the finalé. It was billed as a Dessert Cocktail featuring that fantastic Killahora Orchids Pom’O. But no cocktail! The Bookshelf decided that the Pom’O was so good there was no need to add anything and that proved to be a great call. What a finalé!

Blackberry & Lemon balm....

* Killahora on that unusual drink: “Our Pom’O is an apple aperitif made from rare apple varieties, grown in our 200 year old Orchards on the south facing slopes of Ireland’s County Cork. We mix the juice from our bittersweet apples with the finest apple brandy, then age it in Irish whiskey barrels for at least a year….”  More on the Pom'O here.