Glasshouse Chef Alan Fitzmaurice takes on the world

 Glasshouse Chef Alan Fitzmaurice takes on the world

 

Well-known chef Alan Fitzmaurice has spearheaded the award winning kitchen at The Glasshouse Sligo for the last decade. No stranger to international competition, he is testing himself against the best next week at The Global Chef Challenge in Abu Dhabi. Alan and his commis chef, GMIT student Chelsea Esquivel, are bringing the best of Irish produce to the highest table, competing against the best in the world.

 

The Global Chef Challenge takes place every four years and is run by the influential World Chefs Association. As with the FIFA World Cup, finalists come from regional qualifiers around the globe. Alan is representing Northern Europe and will compete against 11 other chefs from all five continents. The winner will be announced at a Gala Dinner which is the culmination of the Worldchefs Congress & Expo event. 

 

“This is an incredible opportunity to showcase Irish produce as the best in the world”, said Alan Fitzmaurice, “It’s been an intense preparation for Chelsea and myself perfecting our menu. We are very happy with the dishes and we’re going to give it our best in Abu Dhabi”. Leaving nothing to chance, Alan’s luggage consists more of kitchen equipment than shirts and socks.

 

The competition takes place on Wednesday 1^st June with limited preparation in a separate kitchen permitted on the previous day. Its’ a six hour intensive cooking marathon on the day itself, when four separate and perfect dishes must be served to an expert judging team of 12 people. The judging criteria are stringent, and sustainability is an important consideration. “We’re very aware that 50% of the marks go on taste. There is no room for style over substance. Every dish must positively explode with flavour.”, explains Alan, “The dishes are carefully planned to avoid waste almost completely. We’ve put a lot of effort into using every part of the halibut we are using for example, the bones for stock and trimmings for a tartlet as well as the show-stopper pan fried fillet. It’s all about attention to detail”.

 

Alan is fiercely proud of the Irish culinary heritage which he believes is still not as well appreciated as it should be. With this in mind he’s bringing an updated version of the farmhouse classic Boxty to the table, using beetroot as a novel twist. It’s a carefully chosen opportunity to highlight Irish dairy products which Alan believes are the best in the world.

 

Chelsea Esquivel is a young chef from Belize who is studying culinary Arts in GMIT. who is blazing a trail as a pastry chef. She won a gold medal for Afternoon Tea in the Chef Irish National Culinary Championships in 2021.

 

Castlerea born Alan Fitzmaurice has a trophy cabinet positively groaning with awards and honours. He is an evangelical supporter of Irish food and is committed to bringing on and assisting young chefs. He is Executive Chef at The Glasshouse Sligo and has just been appointed President of the Panel of Chefs of Ireland.

 

The Glasshouse is a chic four-star hotel in the heart of Sligo town, overlooking the Garavogue River. Its striking architectural exterior design is well matched with funky contemporary interiors, including the award winning Kitchen Restaurant.

press release

A Quart of Ale± #106. On the craft journey with Rye River Brewing

A Quart of Ale± #106

On the craft journey with Rye River Brewing

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Rye River Celebrate Extended Core Range.

And that is where you’ll find McGargles. In bottles!

Rye River, the independent craft brewery have extend their core range to include their number one selling McGargles (with the new name of course). And more good news for McG fans is that they can still get the same beer and another plus is that it will be in bottles! 

A new name - look out for the Kingfisher - but the same popular beer. Rye River have assured their fans that while the name has changed, "the beer recipes are staying exactly as they are!" And Rye River have very much enjoyed their first ten years. "We have grown to become Ireland's #1 retail brand and for two years in a row, we are also the world's most awarded brewery".

Rye River is an independent Irish craft brewery in Celbridge, Co. Kildare and home to Rye River Seasonal, The Crafty Brewing Co., Grafters and Solas. 

"New name for McGargles, same great beer!" Below are my thoughts on three samples of the extended Rye River range.

Rye River Dam Buster Double IPA 8.00%, 500 ml bottle

This Dam Buster DIPA comes in a hazy gold robe with a soft white head that hangs about a bit (having been poured from the bottle). Pine and grapefruit lead the aromas. And those flavours are also prominent with some tropical accompaniment also on the palate and a supple bitterness always a contributor. No real sign of the alcohol as this well balanced beer goes about its pleasurable business right through to the refreshing finalé (as Sean Kelly might say. By the way when is Le Tour starting?).

They say: Dam Buster Double IPA is not one to be taken lightly! This big beer weighs in at 8.00%. It also has a bundle of amazing hops including Cascade, Columbus, Centennial, Chinook and Mosaic. The taste is perfectly balanced between pine bitterness and biscuity malt. It's a whopper of a beer!

Geek Bits:

Malts: Maris Otter, Vienna Malt, Wheat.

Hops: Cascade, Columbus, Centennial, Chinook and Mosaic, all American.

Rye River Big Bangin’ IPA 7.1%, 500 ml bottle

This was a very popular bottled beer under the McGargle’s label and now it is part of the Rye River core and, of course, in a bottle.

It has got a bright mid-gold colour…. bubbles galore…has been hopped to hell and you get that first via the aromas as the typical tropical fruits appear. And that exotic assault, with an alcohol powered extra edge, also appears on the palate where the Maris Otter malt also shows up well. A fruity yet dry finish follows. Quite a good finish actually, quite a good beer but do note that high alcohol count that smoothly powers it along. It’s not called Big Bangin’ for nothing. 

They say: “A long standing favourite, Big Bangin' IPA is the same great beer you know and love… but now with a bangin' new look!” Just so you’ll know, it’s the one in the white and navy bottle!

They say: Our take on the US West Coast IPA style, using only the finest Maris Otter barley and heavily hopped with tropical aromatic hope varieties.

Geek Bits:

Characteristics: Bitter and strong, tropical fruits.

Malts: Maris Otter.

Hops: Columbus, Mosaic, Simcoe, 

Rye River Backwaters American Wheat 6.2%, 500 ml bottle

Light orange colour, white head that stays around.  Mild aromas of passion fruit and citrus, a hint of pine perhaps. The immediate impression on the palate is crisp and clean and you’re inclined to think lager rather than wheat beer. Wheat though is included in the ingredients and this is pretty well packed with refreshing flavours including passionfruit, citrus, melon and grapefruit. 

No sign of the banana or clove in this American style wheat that you get on regular European wheatbeers (where special strains of yeast are used that produce notes of banana and clove as by-products of fermentation).

The hops used are both from the US, the well-known Cascade and the newer Strata. Strata has been described as “Passion fruit meets pot” and has been increasingly popular with brewers since its official release in 2018.

The brewers say: “Our Backwaters American Wheat is a crisp and clean easy sipper featuring Strata and Cascade hops. Perfect for those lazy summer days in the sun with friends”. Here’s to the sun and to the friends!

By the way. the malts used here are Carapils, Vienna Malt, Wheat and Ale Malt.

A pair of gems from the north of Spain, Graciano from the northwest, Xarel-lo from the northeast

A pair of gems from northern Spain

Graciano from the northwest

Xarel-lo from the northeast

Ruiz Jimenez Valcaliente Rioja (DOC) Graciano  2013

12.5%, €27.00, Restaurants mainly and Mary Pawle

Think Rioja reds and you think Tempranillo. Not in this case. This organic wine by Ruiz Jimenez is one hundred per cent Graciano, a tough-skinned grape with good acidity that accounts for only a tiny minority of the harvest in Rioja.

Graciano is a tough one to grow (it doesn’t handle stress well, is susceptible to mildew) but, according to Grapes and Vines, “that doesn’t stop the good guys from trying”. And Ruiz Jimenez is one of those good guys if this bottle is anything to go by.

It has intense purple colour. Intense aromas too, with black fruits leading, hints of vanilla, blossom also. Power and balance in the juicy palate where the varietal’s acidity stands out, oak is well integrated and there’s a fine finish as well. Very Highly Recommended.

Importer Mary Pawle fills us in: Graciano grapes, Malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels for 4 months and another 4 months in a concrete egg...… A suitable match for smoked meats or charcuterie and semi-hard cheese.

Ruiz Jimenez: We grow our vines and fields with the greatest combination of climate, soil composition, and organic matter. It is the product of more than 30 years of organic agriculture.... A special wine, which can accompany an appetizer such as cured and semi-cured cheeses, black olives, smoked tapas, sausages and especially suitable for game birds and red meat.

Found these suggestions online: Chorizo and lentil stew with Morcilla (Spanish blood sausage); Lamb-stuffed bell peppers; Seared kangaroo with raspberry glaze.

Entre Vinyes Oníric Brisat 2020, 11.5%

€16.75 Organico, Bantry, Lettercollum Kitchen in Clonakilty, Little Green Grocer, Kilkenny, Quay Co-Op, Urru, Bandon, various restaurants and Cafes, and MaryPawleWines

From old bush vines (in poor quality soil) fallen into disrepair and now rehabilitated, amongst forest land that provides the area with a rich biodiversity, comes this wonderful white wine, aromatic and flavourful.

Colour of this organic Penedes is a light orange and it has a slight haze. Apple and citrus notes in the aromas.  The assertive palate is packed with tangy lemon notes and there is more than a salty hint of Sherry through to the fresh and savoury finish “coming from 6 months ageing in amphora on the lees”. Soft and very drinkable, this is an orange wine for everybody. The grape is Xarel·lo which, as you know, is one of the main grapes used in Cava. Very Highly Recommended.

Importer Mary Pawle: “Entre Vinyes is a personal project of Maria Barrena (Azul y Garanza in Navarra) and this Penedes white is a lovely expression of the local grape variety.” She also suggests that it is the perfect introduction to orange wine.

The producers: “With an average age of 60 years, these vineyards of Xarel·lo, Macabeu and Parellada are in the natural environment of Foix, surrounded by oak and pine forest, under a dry climate and on a porous soil (which swallows the water) and limestone, very poor and shallow, with hardly any organic matter. The great biodiversity present creates a unique ecosystem that naturally regulates the balance of the vineyard.”

The grape juice is left in contact with the skins for about 12-14 days and then kept in clay Amphora and steel tanks. It is unfiltered and unfined, low sulphur and low alcohol.

Managers and winemakers of the Entre Vinyes de l'Arboç Winery (Baix Penedès) are Maria and Josep who started from scratch in 2012 after taking over a set of very old parcels from Josep's father, and have slowly seen their dreams realised. Appropriately, the word “ONÍRIC” is relative or pertaining to a dream”.

We have reviewed a few of the ONÍRIC wines recently, one here  and their impressive Pét-Nat here .

Taste of the Week. Cully & Sully's Tempting Tomato Risotto

Taste of the Week

Cully & Sully's Tempting Tomato Risotto

Lots of good things to eat at the weekend's Ballymaloe Grainstore's May Fair. No surprise with that and no surprise either that we found our current Taste of the Week at the Cully & Sully stall.

Of course, they had their famous soups on display but we were directed, in the best possible manner, to try their range of risottos: Tempting Tomato, Charming Chicken and Moreish Mushroom.

To make a long story short, we arrived home with a bagful and, having tasted a couple in Ballymaloe, were keen to try one in earnest and in full. 

We had eaten well around the Fair so didn't need a full dinner. So we made the Tempting Tomato the centrepiece of our supper, adding a variety of leaves from the garden, some artichoke globe quarters container bought from Olives West Cork via Neighbourfood, and some superb sourdough from the Grumpy Bakers (also bought at the May Fair). Some EVOO was added as was some of Hegarty's new Ballinvarrig cheese (we had no Parmesan in the house!) was grated (very finely) on top.

As expected, the Risotto was a winner and instantly declared our Taste of the Week. Now looking forward to trying out the Mushroom and Chicken.

Lots more info and recipes from Cully & Sully here.

* One pack of the risotto makes a meal for one, or if shared, a meal for two with the addition of other bits and pieces such as detailed above.

Very Enjoyable Outing To Grainstore's Ballymaloe May Fair

 Very Enjoyable Outing To Grainstore's Ballymaloe May Fair

Very much enjoyed my few hours at the May Fair organised by the Grainstore at Ballymaloe at the weekend. The first person I met was none other than Colm McCan who is delighted that the Pop-up Wine Shop is to open every afternoon (2.00 - 5.00pm) for the year ahead. I got a sneak peek inside and that pour illustration above may bring back memories to a few of you of great days and evenings at the Ballymaloe Pop-up Wine Shop in Brown Thomas. Colm has wine from a selection of suppliers in Ballymaloe. Not just wine though: Ballymaloe Cider and their House Gin are also available here in bottle.

Quite a few stalls in the Grainstore itself, including jewelry, clothing and more. It was here that I bought some beautifully crafted soaps from Clarkes of Dublin.              

We were also on the lookout for Massaman curry paste at the Malay Kitchen Stall and we found the two ladies from the Malay Kitchen in the Big Shed. Had a lovely chat, plus a little tasting, and came away with a kit that included the Massaman.

On the way in, we had bought a superb sourdough from the Grumpy Bakers and on the way out we got a few of their very tempting pastries. All these were destined for the home table but the beautiful treat from Yum Gelato, especially the Mango, was consumed on a nearby table in the sun. Yum! 

In between, we had another delicious tasting, this of the Cully & Sully Risotto range, very impressive indeed. Couldn't wait when we got home and, for supper, enjoyed their Tempting Tomato and that will feature as Taste of the Week very soon!

Our "main course" was just around the corner, at one of the many outdoor stalls serving hot food. Gidi's menu featured a traditional Yemenite and Moroccan family recipe with the traditional Cork title of "The Whole Shebang." 

The finest Kinsale beef and lamb, spiced and barbequed, along with a salad of green leaves, tomatoes and basil dressed with mint, yogurt and zhoug, all packed into a pitta, with a hint of chilli. Delicious, quite a dish for a tenner, and went down well with a glass of juicy ale from the nearby Wicklow Wolf Brewery stand.

More drinks stalls in the area included Blackwater Distillery (Peter Mulryan told me they have settled well into their new distillery and are planning on doing tours fairly soon). Denis from Kinsale Mead was enjoying a deadly Charcoal mint stracciatella from Yum Gelato while Valentia Vermouth were quite busy at the time.

Denis, and the early afternoon sun, had put me in the humour for a gelato and we were heading that way when I spotted Beardy Dave at the Dingle Gin and Porterhouse stall. He had a quartet of cans on offer for a tenner and they too went into the bag. In fact there was no room in the bags but Dave had a Porterhouse tote on hand!

So, after that final call to Yum and the Grumpy Baker, we were on our way, looking forward to getting through all the food and drink in the bags.

Take a walk in Garryvoe.

 Take a walk in Garryvoe

Fog was shortlived!

Pics taken 14.05.2022

Foraging

Garryvoe Hotel on left

Sand, sea and lighthouse, with wisps of fog

Man and child

No fog now!

INTRODUCING REDBREAST DREAM CASK DOUBLE CASK EDITION. Celebrating World Whisky Day

 PRESS RELEASE

INTRODUCING REDBREAST DREAM CASK DOUBLE CASK EDITION

A magnificent limited-edition release to celebrate World Whisky Day

Redbreast Irish Whiskey, produced by Irish Distillers at its world-renowned Midleton Distillery in Co. Cork, is launching the fifth edition in its celebrated Dream Cask series to mark World Whisky Day 2022.

Redbreast Dream Cask Double Cask Edition is a 30 year old single pot still Irish whiskey which captures the quintessential Redbreast style while celebrating innovation and craftsmanship. The fifth edition represents a truly unique addition to the series, marrying two dream casks, hand selected by Master Blender, Billy Leighton and Blender, Dave McCabe, to create one exceptional whiskey.

To create this extraordinary whiskey, Leighton and McCabe each hand selected their favourite cask from Midleton’s inventory before combining them to create one heavenly whiskey. The first cask, chosen by Leighton, was originally laid down in a first fill oloroso sherry butt in May 1990, while the second – chosen by McCabe – was laid down in a first fill bourbon barrel in November 1991. Each cask, reflective of the two distinct components of the Redbreast DNA, was chosen at its optimum maturity, then combined to showcase the unique traits imparted by each of the following three decades of ageing.

“Bottling these outstanding casks together at precisely the right moment has resulted in an incredibly complex Irish whiskey that harmoniously balances the vanilla sweetness and caramel creaminess from the bourbon barrel and the deep, dark fruitiness from the sherry butt,” explains Leighton.

“With an ABV of 56.9%, the resulting liquid is rich in robust spice with wood-driven characteristics and notes of dark-roasted coffee, sweet liquorice, orange peel and smoked almonds amplified by the wine cask’s influence.”
 
Launching for World Whisky Day, 714 bottles of Redbreast Dream Cask Double Cask Edition will be available exclusively through an online ballot hosted on Redbreast’s online members’ club  The Birdhouse at an RRP of €550. Each of the 500ml bottles will be presented in a keepsake book, made from recyclable cardboard*, detailing the latest instalment in the Dream Cask journey.

“The Dream Cask collection has always been about sharing our most rare and special casks with Redbreast fans around the world and we are thrilled to showcase two distinct casks within this release,” explains Leighton.

“For this 2022 expression, we set out to create a perfectly aged single pot still whiskey that captured the qualities and virtues of its Dream Cask predecessors, but with a new and distinctive twist of marrying these two casks just at the point of bottling. We are delighted with the results and are excited to share this next chapter in the unfolding story of Redbreast.”

McCabe adds: “The traditional Redbreast style is so often associated with the influence of sherry casks that we sometimes overlook the role bourbon casks play in its composition. I am honoured to have been able to select my perfectly aged dream bourbon cask for this year’s Dream Cask and to pay homage to that unbeatable harmony that makes Redbreast so special.

“We are incredibly fortunate that we have the variety of aged stock at Midleton Distillery to explore and make our dreams a reality. Sharing our discovery with whiskey drinkers across the world is one of the most exciting and joyful aspects of my role to date.”

The ballot will be open for entries from Australia, China, Japan, New Zealand, Republic of Ireland, Singapore, South Africa, Switzerland, England, Scotland and Wales from 23rd May. When the ballot closes on 30th May, successful participants will be given an opportunity to purchase a limited-edition bottle of Dream Cask Double Cask Edition.

Bunnyconnellan is where world’s top food just got better. They simply added Irish lamb shank to Massaman Curry. We are all smiling now!

 Bunnyconnellan is where world’s top food just got better. 

They simply added Irish lamb shank to Massaman Curry. We are all smiling now!

Bunny's Pic of the Lamb and Massaman

You know Thailand is “the land of smiles”. "It's a result of being born in a land where the world's most delicious food is sold on nearly every street corner.”

CNN Travel regularly bring out a list of the world’s top foods and, yes, a food from Thailand, Massaman Curry, scooped the top spot in 2021. "Emphatically the king of curries, and perhaps the king of all foods.”

I didn’t know this when I arrived at Bunny’s in the middle of last week but when I ordered the braised Lamb Shank, Mashed Potatoes, Crispy shallots, Coriander and Massaman Curry, my server told me I was in a for a major treat.

The Monk

And she was spot on. It was amazing. The lamb, (off the bone and shredded) was part of an elegant pile of colourful food, standing like an island in the even more colourful “lake” of the curry. 

Just a portion of a generous
plate of calamari.

And what a combination, put together by a Thai chef in the Bunnyconnellan kitchen where the team is headed up by experienced Dubliner Adam Kavanagh. The curry is moderately spicy, coconut-ty, sweet and savoury to use CNN’s words and the match with the local lamb may not be made in heaven but could well get on the menu of the gods. Bunny’s may be in a cul de sac but this, and some other delicious food, makes it well worth the journey! Get on down.

You’ll be treated royally here and not just because they have the king of curries. Everyone we met here, without exception, was so friendly, so helpful, always with time for a hint, a chat, a smile. They are glad to have two weeks behind them after a winter of closure. Each and every one, including owner Paul and Chef Adam, is looking forward to bringing back evening service. And we wish them all the very best for the season ahead.

The Thais use rice, of course, to mop up the final drops and drizzles of the curry but we Irish have our mash potato and Bunny’s version is a good one for the purpose!

The view. Roche's Point is that white dot across the water, extreme right.
Quick shot, just after tables had been cleaned.

Our other mains was Pan fried Monkfish, Butter Bok Choi, Baby Potatoes, Mussel Butter Sauce. Another cracking dish that did honour to a magnificent piece of fish or pieces as it was beautifully arranged and presented, not to mention well executed! The Bok Choi was an excellent match, the beautiful ensemble enhanced no end by the sauce.

Our lunch had begun well with a Mixed Seafood Fritto Misto, Salsa Verde and Garlic Mayo and also ended well with their Spiced Apple Strudel (with clotted cream and butterscotch sauce) each shared.

As you know, the restaurant, a long time favourites of Corkonians, has a splendid location overlooking the mouth of Cork Harbour with the ocean to your left and right out front. We enjoyed those views too in the warm sunshine but will remember this visit for the lovely staff and the top food in the world! We are all smiling now.

Large ship exits Cork Harbour and is about to pass Table 103!

Beaujolais and Vouvray from Barton & Guestier

Beaujolais and Vouvray by Barton & Guestier

The company’s founder Thomas Barton left his native Ireland in the beginning of the 18th century and emigrated to Bordeaux when he was 30 years old. A true adventurer, he founded his wine shipping company in 1725. In 1802 Hugh Barton, his grandson and successor, teamed up with Daniel Guestier, a French trader to create Barton & Guestier, which is today the oldest wine merchant established in Bordeaux. With over three centuries of experience in the wine business, Barton & Guestier is the 1st French brand name known to millions of consumers worldwide.

From the Chartrons area in the center of Bordeaux, barrels and bottles were loaded on board of ships that sailed via the Garonne river to numerous countries, starting with Ireland, England, Holland and the USA to reach over 130 countries at present.

B&G releases wines from across France, produced in partnership with almost 150 winegrowers. It operates on a négociant basis and wines are made at various locations, and are overseen by B&G winemakers. They are very much hands on with their partner winemakers. B&G winemakers monitor all the steps of the process including pruning, harvesting, vinification, ageing, blending and bottling. Of course it has its own vineyards and makes its own wines, most notably at headquarters Chateau Magnol.

Geek Bits

Export to 130 countries;

Bottles exported annually: 16m

Over 150 partner winemakers;

Wines from 23 appellations;

From 20 grape types.

Barton & Guestier “Grand Bouquet” Gamay Beaujolais Villages (AC) 2020,

€16.95 (Findlaters are the importers, the wines are widely available including at Bradleys)

Colour of this Beaujolais Villages from Barton & Gustier is a mid ruby. Aromas are of ripe red fruit (cherry, wild strawberry) with hints of spice and violet in the background. It is also true to type on the palate, juicy and well structured, excellent acidity, those fruits flavours again, and a long finish with liquorice notes. Highly Recommended.

Serve at between 14 and 16 degrees and you’ll find it very versatile. The label recommends pairing with cold meats, grilled poultry and cheese, the winery goes for salads, cold meats, grilled poultry. Fine with steak too by the way. Wine Folly has “all manner of dishes from sweet and sour salmon to beef stroganoff or even sesame tempeh”, on its list.

Beaujolais is just south of Burgundy and the Gamay grape grows well on its decomposing pink granite soils. The crus share most of the granite and their wines (eg Morgan, Fleurie, Saint Amour) are normally best but Beaujolais Villages is often of a very good standard, as you may taste from this one. The fruit for our bottle is from Northern part of the Beaujolais region between Villefranche and Mâcon (about 35 minutes by car), more or less exactly where the crus are.

Barton & Guestier Les Petites Parcelles Vouvray (AC) 2019, 12%, 

€16.95 (Findlaters are the importers, the wines are widely available including at Bradleys)

Very light and bright yellow is the colour of this Vouvray; it is, of course, 100% Chenin Blanc. Delicate aromas of pear and apple as well as even more delicate floral notes. The palate, with fruity flavour (quince and pear), starts a little on the sweet side before finishing closer to dry and reasonably long. A refreshing wine and Highly Recommended.

The makers suggest it as an aperitif and pairing it with smoked fish, Asian dishes, creamy cheeses,  at a temperature between 8 and 10 C. By the way, Wine Folly endorse the Asian tip saying “you cannot failing pairing Chenin Blanc with Thai or Vietnamese cuisine”.

A vineyard in Vouvray (Clos d'Epinay)

The fruit comes from small plots (the parcelles of the name) located on the hillsides and plateau overlooking the Loire, long known as the royal river as the valley (and its chateaus) was a favourite of the royal family.

Quite a lot of Chenin Blanc its grown in Northern France (from Vouvray to Saumur) but South Africa (in Stellenbosch and Paarl) grows more than any other country with the French second and the USA third.