Thursday, May 12, 2022

Cask in Cork Announced As Top 10 International Cocktail Bar in Europe at ‘Tales of The Cocktail’ 2022 Spirited Awards®

Cask in Cork Announced As Top 10 International Cocktail Bar in Europe at ‘Tales of The Cocktail’ 2022 Spirited Awards®


Cask in Cork has been announced as a 2022 Spirited Awards Regional Top 10 Honoree for Best International Cocktail Bar for the Europe region.

Since opening in 2017 on MacCurtain Street in the heart of Cork city, Cask has gone on to win multiple awards with its bartenders representing Ireland internationally with seasonal-led and terroir-focussed Cocktails. 

Top 10 Honoree nomination is particularly exciting for Cask’s managing partner Andy Ferreira, who says, "I'm absolutely thrilled Cask has been nominated as a regional honoree at the annual Spirited Awards. Not just for Cask, but for the Irish bar industry as a whole. A Tales of the Cocktail nomination is renowned for being a pinnacle in our industry globally and seeing an Irish bar listed alongside some of the finest bars in the world is quite surreal. It's all down to our amazing team past and present and the incredible Irish products we work with daily ."



As a Top 10 Europe Honoree, Cask joins an impressive roll call of other international cocktail bars, including well-known London bars Satan’s Whiskers, Tayēr + Elementary and Three Sheets, along with Barcelona’s Two Shmucks.

Andy Ferreira

Since its founding in 2007, the Spirited Awards, run by the Tales of the Cocktail Foundation, has become one of the industry’s most sought-after awards, celebrating global excellence in the drinks industry and recognising professionals, organisations, and establishments shaping the cocktail community worldwide. The judging panel includes respected bartenders, bar owners, educators, and writers from across the globe who draw on their years of experience to evaluate nominees from far and wide to ensure that the Spirited Awards are inclusive and represent the breadth and diversity of the global drinks industry.

There will be even more good news to come from the Cask team as another exciting venue is planned for opening in late summer 2022.  Andy says, “We've started work on a new venue which is opening later this year. We don't want to give too much away but let's just say it's a very different concept to what we do in Cask where locality and embracing the best Ireland has to offer is at the heart of what we do. For our new cocktail bar and restaurant, we're going slightly further afield for our inspiration. We’re looking forward to sharing more news about our latest project soon." 

 

The ultimate winners of the 2022 Spirited Awards will be announced at a ceremony at The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans on 28th July this year.

press release

Wednesday, May 11, 2022

Taste of the Week. Skelligs Milk Chocolate Rose & Pistachio Bar

Taste of the Week. 

Skelligs Milk Chocolate Rose & Pistachio Bar


You immediately think Turkish delight as this gorgeous bar begins to melt in your mouth. And you are correct as this is a delicious blend of the creaminess of milk chocolate and the irresistible aromas of rose, not forgetting the gentle crunch of the pistachio nuts.

"An exotic Turkish delight inspired seduction," according to the Kerry makers. Well we know they have poets and writers in the Kingdom who can get carried away by the magic of words. This time though, I have to agree and the little bar (€2.95 at Bradleys of Cork's North Main Street) is our Taste of the Week.

They will last ten months, I read on the packaging. Very unlikely, methinks, ten minutes more likely!

I see they also have a Gin & Tonic bar available, that could be next on my list! See the range of flavoured bars here.


Tuesday, May 10, 2022

Cush Ballycotton Plates Up To Its Michelin Bib Gourmand Rating

Cush Ballycotton Plates Up To Its Michelin Bib Gourmand Rating

Halibut “Grenobloise”


Michelin say their Bib Gourmand stands for “good quality, good value cooking”. And you’ll certainly find that in Ballycotton’s Cush under chef Dan Guerin.


The restaurant space is comfortable and uncluttered with views to the harbour below and the lighthouse. Just like the family owned and run traditional pub and comfy bedrooms, also under the Cush name (taken from a local pathway), the welcome is warm and uncomplicated, the service friendly and efficient.

Monkfish



Tandem's "Casual" Viura
And speaking of local, local produce features throughout the menu whether it is the greens and veg from Greenfield Farm, the meat from O’Farrell Butchers, or the free-range poultry from East Ferry Farm. But I find that, not unexpectedly, fish is the star of the menu and, of course, that is local, mostly ultra-local from the pier below and from Richard Guerin in particular.


And it was the fish that provided the highlights for us during last week’s dinner. Halibut is one of my favourites and the dish here was superbly cooked and presented. It was billed as Grilled Wild Irish Halibut “Grenobloise”, new season Green Asparagus, Vadouvan Spiced Langoustine Sauce. The fish was perfect, soft and seductive, the asparagus plump and yielding, and that slightly spicy exotic sauce brought it all together so well.

Quail


Satisfactory sounds too from the other side of the table where CL enjoyed her Roast Loin of Monkfish, broccoli purée, Green Field Farm leeks, Clementine and Caviar butter sauce. There was the usual swapping, of course, and neither of us could find fault (not that we were particularly looking for one - we come to enjoy, not to nitpick!).  Just another faultless gem from Guerin’s kitchen, the veg and sauce expertly chosen to make the most of the fresh fish and there was a particularly delicious duet between the Monk and purée. 


We shared a superb little pot of mashed potato that came with the fish. No doubt plenty of butter but again Bib Gourmand quality, just like both our mains here. They offer a short list of sides including Charred Hispi Cabbage Nduja Breadcrumb and also Home cut fries.

Scallops


In between courses we sipped from our wines and watched the newly arrived swallows on a wall just outside the window who seemed to be watching us or was it the stellar food. You rarely see Viura* as a house white in Irish restaurants. Tandem's gorgeous Casual, with its elegant nose and vibrant mouth, could change all that. The wine, from Navarra, was superb with the halibut. We also enjoyed the Quinta do Crasto Branco from Portugal, a blend of local grapes, aromatic, crisp and fresh and ideal for the scallops and monkfish. 


Our meal had begun with Scallops and Quail, both eye-catching dishes. CL had the Seared West Cork Scallops, Boudin Noir, Vadouvan Spiced Sauce. Eye-catching and taste-bud tempting and altogether irresistible. And much the same could be said of my Roast Quail, pear and blackberry chutney, green asparagus, pickled walnut and Madeira sauce.

Baba




And we also finished well. One dessert was Salted Caramel Tart, Grue De Cacao Tuile, blackberry, vanilla ice cream; the other Baba, soaked in Valentia Island Vermouth, whipped vanilla mascarpone, new season blood orange. Another two empty plates remained, ready to go back following a full set of empties, and it was time to return home as we sang the praises of Chef Guerin and Cush in general.



  • By the way, they offer a three course set menu for €38.00. Very good value at this level as it includes quite a few of the regular dishes and is a terrific introduction to the food here.
  • Read more on the restaurant website here.
  • View from our table
    Also on this mini-trip: A short walk in the Ballycotton sun

  • * Viura in Rioja and Navarra but known as Macabeu in other parts of Spain.

Monday, May 9, 2022

A Quart of Ale± #104. On the craft journey with Wicklow Wolf, Boundary, Otterbank and O Brother

A Quart of Ale± #104

On the craft journey with Wicklow Wolf, Boundary, Otterbank and O Brother


*********


Wicklow Wolf Locavore Spring 2022 Barrel Aged Farmhouse Ale with Brett 11.9%, 330ml bottle Bradleys


Locavore Spring 2022 is a Barrel Aged Farmhouse Ale aged for 36 months in Chianti Red Wine Barrels. “Conditioned with wild yeasts from the brewery’s hop farm and carefully monitored by the watchful eyes of our brewing team, the beer was allowed to slowly mature over time to give a magnificent depth of complex flavours.”


The result? A wild, sour farmhouse ale that champions the wild yeasts of the Wicklow Wolf Hop Farm and the Wicklow terroir.


Colour is a black/brown with a light tan head. And yes, there is indeed a “magnificent depth of complex flavours”. And very little physical sign of the high ABV. 


Three years in the Chianti Barrels, plus the wild yeast, has undoubtedly worked on the beer, giving it waves of flavour, everything from fruit flavours (sour cherry) to Balsamic  to darker (espresso), rich for sure but no shortage of a balancing tart acidity. 


Brett (or Brettanomyces, to give it its full title) has a bad rep and scares the life out of many but this Wicklow Brett seems very amicable indeed, from initial sniff to aftertaste. Three years in the wood have rounded the beer into an amazing experience on the palate. Very Highly Recommended. Don’t worry too much about the details here - just sip and enjoy.


The Locavore project consists of small batch, local, experimental beers that champion terroir. Locavore was founded on provenance and pride. “It allows us to honour the landscape of Wicklow, our home, and celebrate it with small batch, local and experimental beers.” This is the 9th in the series. I’ve missed many of the earlier ones but am determined not to miss any more!




Boundary Double Nelson DIPA 8.0%, 440ml can Bradleys


Just one hop.. but a serious hop-bomb..


That’s how Belfast’s Boundary introduced this Double Nelson DIPA last March.  Colour is a very hazy orange with a soft white head. “Juicy,” they say. “ You'll catch a hint of gooseberry, passionfruit maybe.”  The fruits mentioned are typical when Nelson Sauvin is used. Nelson’s named for the grape Sauvignon blanc and that too, especially when it is grown in Marlborough (NZ), can have the same fruit flavours.


This DIPA has been dry-hopped with the Nelson (22 g/l) and it is juicy and full of flavour and finishes with quite a bitter touch. Not too sure about the gooseberry here as flavours seem more exotic. Perhaps they have different gooseberries on the South Island! 


Yet, it is a serious hop-bomb indeed and Boundary are happy: “You may have enjoyed our Full Nelson before. It's like that. But bigger.

We don't do that many single-hop beers, but this one works so nicely.”


They are also happy that they have opened Northern Ireland’s first Taproom right next door. “The Taproom will be a space for all things Boundary. Here you will be able to enjoy the freshest (and cheapest!) Boundary in the Universe…. As a Cooperative, the Taproom will also become a real community hub. We now have over 1800 members! In the new taproom we'll be able to run book clubs, running clubs, board game clubs, helping with finance classes etc.” 


You may not have come across this hops before but it is in common enough use in the craft beer world (more so recently) for American Pale Ale, India Pale Ale, and Pale Ale.  Hoplist: “The variety has gained popularity in American-style Pale Ales but is definitely a hop that requires prudent and discerning application in brewing. Nelson Sauvin’s oil profile is complex and fortunately works well as an aroma hop, flavor hop and also for bittering.”


Full nelson is a wrestling term for a type of hold; you also have a quarter nelson, a half nelson and three-quarter nelson. Not too though that there is a double nelson. But Boundary’s could well get a hold on you.



Otterbank Middle Lane American Pale Ale 4.4%, 440ml can Bradleys


This American Pale Ale from Donegal based Otterbank has a light hazy orange/gold colour and a soft white head. Aromas, not surprisingly considering it has been dry-hopped (“generously”) with Citra, are citrusy with notes of pine. Pretty damn good on the palate, refreshingly forward-hopped but not at all over the top as they get the balance spot-on.

 

Otterbank is a microbrewery based at the start/end of the Wild Atlantic Way (the brewery at the other start/end is Blacks of Kinsale) in the border village of Muff. They focus on barrel ageing, mixed and experimental fermentation (as well as the odd IPA). And the odd Pale Ale too, it seems.


Geek Bits

Malts: Stout, Cara Gold.

Hops: Centennial, Chinook, Citra.

Web: American pale ale dry hopped with Citra

Beernut: nil



O Brother You’ll Pay With Your Souls Single Hop (Simcoe) Pale Ale 5.3%, 440ml can Bradleys


Colour of this Wicklow produced Single Pale Ale is a light orange with a big soft white head that hangs around awhile. Did the old finger test in the head and came up with pine. Also found in the aromas and in the mouth where some grapefruit, passionfruit and apricot also comes through. Noticeably dry with a muscular lingering bitterness. Not bad at all but a bit one dimensional and lacks balance methinks. 


The Wicklow based O Brother are a trio of O’Neill siblings (Barry, Brian and Paddy) and they are quick to point to the contribution of their brewer Rich Barrett. On Insta, they say: “Rich is the man responsible for producing all that beautiful fresh liquid we're so proud of, and aside from being incredibly talented and a key ingredient in our success, Rich has been with us pretty much since the beginning of our journey, and is every bit one of the bros at this stage!”

 

Their core beers are The Sinner (American style IPA), The Dreamcatcher (session NEIPA), The Chancer (Pale Ale), The Nightcrawler (Milk Stout). Their beers are Unfiltered. Unpasteurised. 

Unadulterated.


Geek Bits

Hop: Simcoe (USA)

Malts: Extra Pale Malt, Pilsner Malt, Oats, Flaked Barley and Cara Pils

Ingredients: Water, Malted Barley, Oats, hops, yeast. 

Barley to glass dream becomes a reality as Clonakilty officially has its own Irish whiskey

 press release

Barley to glass dream becomes a reality as Clonakilty officially has its own Irish whiskey

 

A big moment for Clonakilty Distillery founder
Michael Scully

 

Clonakilty Distillery are celebrating a significant business milestone this week as their own spirit legally became Irish whiskey, following a three-year wait since they filled their casks.

 

(As per legal Revenue requirements, Irish Whiskey must be matured for a minimum of three years and can be marketed with different maturities.)

 

Patiently maturing over the last three years in their Atlantic Ocean warehouse, the spirit was also distilled at the distillery in Clonakilty using their own copper pot stills.

 

To add a further local and Clonakilty connection, all the raw barley used within the distillation process was also from farmlands owned by the Distillery, in addition to neighbouring farms in the locality.

 

Clonakilty Distillery’s own whiskey has been much anticipated in the Irish whiskey community and within trade circles, having already won Best Irish New Make at the World Whiskies Awards in 2020.

 

Head Distiller Paul Corbett said that while this was in the pipeline for a number of years, it marked a significant turning point for the Distillery and the production of their own whiskey would solidify their position as one of Ireland’s leading distilleries.

 

He revealed the natural local surroundings of their Atlantic warehouse played a huge role in both the maturing and distillation process and were instrumental in creating a uniquely Clonakilty offering.

 

He said: “This Pot still Irish whiskey was triple distilled from a combination of locally grown raw barley and malt. Our stills with have long tall necks which produce an elegant spirit which help us to showcase the sweetness of the malt, as well as the spiciness of the barley and fruity flavours produced by the yeast.

 

“The spirit was then cut down to casking strength with mineral rich water from our well at our Atlantic Coast warehouse and laid to rest here for the last three years.  The warehouse is perched 200ft above the ocean and is exposed to persistent howling Atlantic winds.

 

“The ever-changing climate the casks are exposed to will increase our angel’s share and concentrate the flavours in our spirit creating a whiskey with an unmatched depth of character.

 

“We have a passion for innovation, and we strive to use only the best cask finishes for our whiskey, and this will be a brilliant addition to our current range of European Oak, Port, Bordeaux and Cognac casks,”  Mr Corbett concluded.

 

Founder of Clonakilty Distillery Michael Scully said he was delighted with this recent milestone, but added that the Distillery will continue to harness the flavours and allow them to mature for a further two years before releasing to the public:

 

Mr Scully said: We are delighted to have reached this three- year milestone for our single Irish pot still whiskey. The smoothness and intriguing flavour combination of fruit and spice is exactly as we wished for at this point in its development. This elegant whiskey will only get better, which is why we intend to wait for a further two years before release.

 

Whiskey fans can follow the journey and process of Clonakilty’s Single Pot Still through their social media channels – but can also buy a cask in advance through their Cask Keepers Club which allows buyers the unique opportunity to invest in their own cask of the premium Single Pot Still new make spirit, with further details on the website here Cask Keepers' Club - Clonakilty Distillery

 

 

Sunday, May 8, 2022

A couple of superb wines from opposite sides of the Alps. Roussette and Dolcetto. Not your usual grapes!

A couple of superb wines from opposite sides of the Alps. 

Roussette and Dolcetto. Not your usual grapes!



Roussette and Dolcetto are not grapes that immediately spring to mind when talking wine. But here are two excellent examples from opposite sides of the Alps with just a spectacular four hour drive between Alba (Italy) and Frangy (France).

***


Domaine Lupin Roussette de Savoie (AOC)  Frangy 2019, 12.5%, 

€23.40  64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny


Many of us will not have heard of the Roussette grape previously. Its proper name seems generally accepted to be Altesse (meaning highness). It is indigenous in Savoie and indeed it is grown on high ground there.


Frangy itself, the named cru on the label,  is located in Haute-Savoie between Lake Annecy and Lake Lehmann (Geneva) and benefits from a micro-climate favourable to the cultivation of vines.


Colour is a light straw. The aromatics are relatively delicate but with a notable floral complexity. There’s a potent juicy acidity but all is well balanced, with flavours of pear and honey and also a nutty character. It is soft and mellow and more or less full bodied. Quite a mouthful, quite a wine. Very Highly Recommended, especially if you like your white wines on the off dry side (just a little!).


Not altogether a surprise as Altesse is regarded as “perhaps Savoie’s most noble, native varietal”. Another plus factor is that this is a cru, one of sixteen villages in the Savoie, all of which have higher standards than those of the Vin de Savoie AC and Roussette de Savoie AC and may append their name to either of these appellations if their wines meet these higher criteria. One of the best of these crus is Frangy.

Lake Geneva


This Bruno Lupin is 100% Roulette de Savoie and Le Caveau recommend pairing it with river fish such as pike or perch, or veal escalope, or even the local Beaufort cheese. Beaufort is one of the great Alpine cheeses and an Irish equivalent is Hegarty’s Templegall (even if Whitechurch hasn’t quite got the altesse of the Alps).


Lupin: “As with many of the vineyards in this region the viticulture is lutte raisonnée. (Minimal use of chemicals, low yields, hand harvested) and the yields moderate (49hl/ha). In the winery some skin contact is allowed for richness of aroma with fermentation at 18-20c, followed by a natural settling of the must, lees contact, and eventual bottling in April the following year.”

***



Ciabot Berton Rutuin Dolcetto D’Alba (DOC) 2013, 13%, €19.25 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny


Dolcetto is the grape here. Colour is a mid to deep ruby. Aromas are floral (violet) and fruit (cherry), also a hint of spice. Cherries and berries on the juicy palate, with a crisp acidity, light-bodied and refreshing with light tannic streak and a decent aftertaste. Highly Recommended.


From the north-west of the country, Dolcetto is one of Italy’s classic food wines and the producers recommend matching it with cured meats, pasta dishes and white meat dishes while Winefolly.com goes with "richer, darker meats and vegetable dishes with roasted tomatoes, eggplant (aubergine), and garlic”.


 Wine-searcher.com tells us: "Those with a grasp of Italian might understandably assume that Dolcetto wines are all sweet. In fact, sweet Dolcetto wines are something of a rarity.”


Wine Folly on the grape: "In Piedmont, Dolcetto’s home, the name means 'little sweet one." Funny enough, wines are generally tart with loads of black fruit flavors and occasionally aggressive tannins". We don't see many examples available in Ireland.


Virtually all of Italy’s Dolcetto is grown in Piedmont and Dolcetto D’Alba is one of the appellations. The Ciabot Berton vineyards lie in the prestigious historical cru of La Morra: Roggeri, San Biagio, Rive, Cappallotti, Pria and Rocchettevino, on the slopes facing towards Alba.


The aim at Ciabot Berton is to produce wines that express their vineyard terroir, unique in each vintage and with the stamp of the family’s way of working. These methods are primarily the use of organic techniques in order to attain and maintain equilibrium and healthy vines.


Already on my next order: Ciabot Berton Barbera d'Alba ‘Fisetta’, also from Le Caveau.


Saturday, May 7, 2022

A Short Walk In Sunny Ballycotton

 A Short Walk In Sunny Ballycotton

We were in Ballycotton for dinner at the Cush last week and had a little time on our hands so we took a short stroll from the pier to the start of the cliff walk.

As you can see it was a beautiful evening with the temperature reaching 18 degrees, swallows ducking and diving and seagulls soaring. That short but enjoyable stroll was followed by a superb meal in Cush.

Cush above and below with a couple of very early birds! We had a lovely dinner
here after the walk. Details on the blog here!


View from our table










The Mary Stanford lifeboat 1930-1959.
Now retired!




This little swallow looks on the hungry side.
It had landed on a wall just outside Cush window