Killarney’s Lake Hotel And Its Many Attractions

Starter: Hot Smoked Salmon

 Killarney’s Lake Hotel And Its Many Attractions 

It is just after the crack of dawn. The sun, hidden by trees to the east, is managing to scatter a light gold over the mountains that surround the lake. The morning is frosty, the grass white. A deer stops in his tracks. He looks behind to see the source of the faint noise. It is a photographer.

View from the room

Not me! I’m on a balcony on 3rd floor of the Lake Hotel in Killarney. One of my favourites places to stay. I had it in my head to get some sunrise photos but had to settle for the deer instead (and an early breakfast!). The deer regularly appear between the hotel and water at dusk and dawn.

Located on the lakeshore, about two kms from Killarney town, the location of the hotel is splendid, the views magnificent. It even has its own promontory in front, complete with a 12th Century floodlit castle.

It has been in the Huggard family since the 1940s and the welcome here is always warm and they especially love to see customers returning. You can relax, enjoy the views and the National Park next door and they will also feed you very well indeed.

Morning has broken

Our recent two-night package included dinner and we choose to take that in the magnificent Castlelough Restaurant  on the second evening (we had breakfast there each morning). Some terrific choices on the menu; the food was very well prepared and presented. They have quite a wine selection here but, on this occasion, we enjoyed the lager and ales produced by the local Killarney Brewing Company.

There were six regular appetisers to choose from (after a delicious Beetroot led Amuse Bouche) plus two specials. One of our picks was the Scots Pine Smoked Salmon (pickled shallots, confit lemon, dill oil, burnt lemon powder and Horseradish cream). A terrific mix of textures and flavours.

Monkfish

Our other was one of the specials: a parcel of Beef Cheek with truffle celeriac purée and confit potatoes roast just. That too was very well appreciated, a hearty and flavoursome beginning and, again,  so well presented.

Took our time choosing the mains but we were both happy with the outcome. One was Lightly Spiced Monkfish (with roasted Peppers, Saffron Potato,, and Curry Cream). That spice element was moderate, very well judged indeed, leading to a very satisfactory and elegant plateful. 

Halibut

And the accompaniments also played a key role in elevating the Pan Fried Fillet of Halibut and they were Squid Ink Gnocchi, Seaweed butter, Braised Baby Vegetables and Shellfish Bisque. Magnifique!

Of course, this being Ireland, there were sides also, selection of fresh vegetables plus the most delightful potatoes (with garlic, herbs and cream).

Sweet blackberry!

Lager by Killarney Brewing

Service was excellent all through, helpful, leisurely but efficient. And we were allowed a wee gap before dessert! Choices had to be made of course and I was reluctant to leave the Rhubarb Bavarois & Madagascar Vanilla Ganache behind. 

Our picks were the light and superb Apple Cider Baba (Granny Smith Apple Compote, Honey & Yogurt Parfait) and the ever so slightly more supple Black Sesame Cremeux (blackberry textures, coconut mousse and blackberry sorbet). No effort required to get fully acquainted with these smooth treats.

Later, we headed to the bar, The Devil’s Punchbowl, to continue on the Killarney beer trail. They have music here in this very comfortable room a few evenings each week.

Frosty rim on the mountain just after dawn

Needless to say, our bedroom was also top notch, spacious and with that balcony (it will cost you a few euro extra but is worth it!). We had all the facilities we needed including a jacuzzi bath. The hotel also has a wellness centre and lots of parking.

Fueling up for another day in
the kingdom. Those raisins were
soaked in rum. Vrrum!

Also on this visit:

Killarney National Park

Bray Head Walk on Valentia Island

Kells Bay Gardens and lunch at Sala Thai

Lunch on the way down at The Mills Inn, Ballyvourney.

The Mad Monk by Quinlans Fish

Kells Bay Gardens & Sala Thai Café

 Kells Bay Gardens & Sala Thai Café

Views over Dingle Bay.  The largest palm tree in Ireland,
this Jubaea chilensis was imported from Chile in 2007

There be dinosaurs!

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Kells Bay Gardens is one of Europe's premier horticultural experiences, containing a renowned collection of Tree-ferns and other exotic plants growing in its unique microclimate created by the Gulf Stream. They overlook dramatic views of Dingle Bay and are filled with a variety of rare sub-tropical plants.

The gardens are owned by Billy Alexander and you may recall he won the Chelsea Flower Show Gold Medal in 2021. Tree Ferns and many other rare and unusual exotic plants are for sale here, including some for the smaller garden.

The dinosaurs have long been a feature here and now some new ones are popping up in the gardens; you could well see one being created! Listen for the roar, the roar of the saw that is!

If you have your own little dinosaurs with you, they'll be hungry. And Kells Bay has them covered and their carers of course (even if you leave the little darlings at home). The Sala Thai has a number of dining options available, snacks outside, light meals in the café and something a little more formal in the restaurant.

We lunched there in the conservatory café and enjoyed a platter of a selection of five starters: Gai (Chicken) Satay on skewers; Popia Tod (vegetable spring rolls with plum sauce); Goong Hom Pa (Deep fried prawns with sweet chilli sauce); Tod Man Khao Pod (deep fried corn cakes); and Kia Nom Phang na Goong (Thai prawn toast). Quite a mixture, full of flavour, and served with excellent peanut and sweet chilli sauces. 

They also have an Aromatic Duck platter for sharing. And of course, you can have individual starters. And no shortage of main course either, lots of them based on Stir-Fry Dishes, Noodle Dishes, Fried Rice, Curries and more.

With a dinner coming up that evening, we skipped the mains and headed straight for the desserts. Two caught our attention and we very much enjoyed the Lychees served in a light syrup with ice, caught the eye and was very enjoyable as well and also the Guay Tod Nampueng (homemade crispy banana fritters in coconut batter, drizzled with honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds).

Back to the gardens after the grub! They are divided into a number of sections including The Palm and Succulent Garden, The Ladies Walled Garden, The Primeval Forest, The Bamboo Glade, The River Ramble and The Waterfall Walk.

The Waterfall Walk was a favourite of ours during our visit early this month but the one we'll remember most was the Skywalk, Ireland's longest rope-bridge at 120 feet. Opened in 2017, it spans the Delligeenagh River at a height of 36 feet. And it shakes like a real Himalayan bridge should! Enjoy.

Lots to explore on the various walks. And if you'd like to stay here for a night and resume your walks in the morning that too can be arranged as Kellys Bay Gardens has quite a choice of rooms on offer. Check this and more out here.

Also on this visit:

Killarney National Park

Bray Head Walk on Valentia Island

Dinner at The Mad Monk by Quinlans Fish

Lunch on the way down at The Mills Inn, Ballyvourney.

The Lake Hotel

CORK’S ELBOW LANE BREWERY BREWS ‘RESIST’ ANTI-IMPERIAL STOUT TO SUPPORT UKRAINE

CORK’S ELBOW LANE BREWERY BREWS ‘RESIST’ 

ANTI-IMPERIAL STOUT TO SUPPORT UKRAINE

Cork’s Elbow Lane micro-brewery, probably the smallest brewery in Ireland, has announced that it is creating an anti-imperial stout called Resist in support of Ukraine. This will go on sale at the end of April with all profits donated to the International Red Cross.

Resist is based on a recipe released by the Pravda Brewery in Ukraine, which is encouraging breweries around the world to make the beer in solidarity with their war effort. At Elbow Lane, this unique beer will have a kiss of beetroot to firmly root it in its Ukrainian heritage.

Elbow Lane, part of the Market Lane Group, is one of the few Irish breweries that strictly adheres to the principles of the ancient German Purity Law, “Reinheitsgebot”, which means that only four ingredients are used: malted barley, hops, yeast and water. There are no additives and the fermentation of the beer is not artificially accelerated, nor is it filtered – so it is all totally natural. “However, theSe rules will be breached in the brewing of Resist, but all for a good cause” says master brewer, Russell Garrett. In the meantime the Pravda Brewery has turned its attention to making Molotov Cocktails.

For a time, Resist specialty stout, which Garrett aims to come in at around 5% abv, will sit along the brewery’s core range of five beers which includes Elbow Lager, Angel Stout, Arrow Weisse, Wisdom Ale and Jawbone Pale Ale.

Resist will initially be available through Elbow Lane Smokehouse and Market Lane and Goldie Restaurants. Each establishment will serve the stout in a unique way and recommend dishes that will best bring out its unique characteristics.

The Market Lane Group comprises Market Lane, Goldie, ORSO, Blackrock Castle restaurants and the Elbow Lane Brewery & Smokehouse.

press release

The Mad Monk. A Superb New Restaurant. By Quinlan’s Seafood In Killarney’s Plunkett Street.

The Mad Monk. A Superb New Restaurant 

By Quinlan’s Seafood In Killarney’s Plunkett Street.

The other week, just off Killarney’s main drag, I made one of the finest seafood catches around. Hadn’t seen this in the Cork outlet that I visited a few weeks earlier but made my business to get my hooks into their Portmagee Crab Bake when I spotted it at the bottom of their starter list.

The superb Portmagee Crab Bake comes in a Tomato and Avocado Salsa salad and with sourdough bread for mopping up! You won’t come across a crab bake in many restaurants in Ireland and the one here is well worth checking out. And you’ll be lucky to happen on one as good as this.

Hake

The new premises is very attractive. It is spread over two floors giving a total of about 80 covers. The family seafood business is based in Caherciveen, Co Kerry. Kerryfish was started in 1963 by the father Michael Quinlan and has now been passed down to the second generation of Quinlan’s, Liam, Ronan and Fintan. And expansion is always on the agenda here. They have shops and restaurants all over Kerry and beyond and you probably know that the Cork premises has also been enlarged and improved! 

The menu starts with a page of specials and you’ll see the same info on a board on the street. Terrific range of fish on offer, usually with both starter and main versions. Portmagee Oysters, Dingle Bay Wild Squid, Sizzling Deep Water Atlantic Prawns, Portmagee Crab Claws are regular features. Excellent dishes of Hake, Salmon, even Sea Bass are also on the mains menu.

Our other starter was Dingle Bay Wild Squid (deep fried locally caught squid served with “our famous homemade sweet chilli jam”). You also get a well presented salad. It was probably the best squid I’ve ever tasted, soft and easy to eat and no hardening towards “rubber” at all from start to finish. And yes that Sweet Chilli Jam is every bit as good as they claim.

I was keen to try a white fish main dish and got my chance with the delicious Pan Roasted Fillet of Hake on a tomato chorizo, spinach and bean cassoulet with herb potatoes. A perfect backing accompaniment that lets the fish shine.

Our other mains was the Pan Fried Fillet of Salmon and that came with Lyonnaise Potatoes, Asparagus, Carrot Purée and Basil Pesto. The fish, a very generous serving, was spot on, well cooked and the dish neatly presented.

Salmon

We didn’t have the Fish and Chips on this occasion. In Quinlan’s, as indeed in some other places, you get a choice of fish. In Killarney,  we could pick from Whiting, Plaice, Haddock, Cod, Hake or Goujons.

There’s a full bar here, plenty of wines, more white than red understandably, and most of them available by the glass. Delighted also to see they had an ale and stout from Killarney Brewery on tap, along with a few bottles. A glass of that refreshing ale, very flavoursome too, went down well with the hake.

They do offer meat dishes here (and I’d bet they are of a good standard) but if you like your fish then Quinlans is a very good choice indeed. Very Highly Recommended.

Also on this visit:

Killarney National Park

Bray Head Walk on Valentia Island

Kells Bay Gardens and lunch at Sala Thai

Lunch on the way down at The Mills Inn, Ballyvourney.

The Lake Hotel

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A Quart of Ale± #100. Quite a quartet for the 100th: Whiplash, Dot Brew, Ballykilcavan and Boundary.

 A Quart of Ale± #100

Quite a quartet for the 100th: Whiplash, Dot Brew, Ballykilcavan and Boundary.

Whiplash Smoke Stack Lightnin’ Oaked & Smoked Brown 8.5%, 440 ml can Bradleys

Oaked and Smoked it is with its tanned head over a very close to black body. Aromas are also from the dark side, rich dark dates and raisins come with toast and in a wee cloud of coffee, may even have been a bit of smoky bacon in the background, even though Whiplash say it is not a Rauchbier. Complex, isn’t it?

It doesn’t get any simpler on the delicious palate, just better. Toasty in the main from the Brown and Biscuit malt used and the smoke’s around as well. Add in the light tannin of the oak while the yeast contributes a mild sweet nuttiness to the complexity. And yet, it is superbly balanced. Lipsmacking and totally satisfying to the finalé. Think I may live forever on the dark side.

They say: It’s still cold out there, and we’ve still room for some malty winter-ish warmers in us. Here’s Smoke Stack Lightnin’, an oaked & smoked big brown. After ferment we age this one in a light amount of American Oak. Not going for big vanilla barrel aged here, just a reminder of how beer used live for a week or two before the days of stainless steel.

Geek Bits

Pilsner Malt, Smoked Malt, Brown Malt, Dark Crystal Malt, Biscuit Malt, Flaked Barley, and Columbus hops.

Old English ale yeast

ABV 8.5%

440ml Cans

Artwork by @sophie_devere

Dot Brew When the Going Gets Gose 4.0%, 440ml can Bradleys

Coriander and Salt are among the ingredients here, a clue that this is a gose! The Beer Bible suggests that the flavour of this style of beer “is something like salted yoghurt”.

So, okay, we proceed with caution! Colour is not alarming at all, a light orange but murky. Perhaps that’s coriander in the herby aromas, light floral notes too. And then on the tangy palate, you may detect clove notes and the lemony tartness introduces itself, the coriander and salt duet towards the finish. Yet there’s nothing extreme here in the Dot Brew version; it is all very approachable, quite a pleasurable and refreshing beer indeed.

The can’s list of ingredients: Barley, Oats, Wheat, Hops, Salt, Coriander, Yeast.  The variety of the other ingredients has reduced the effects of the hops leaving us with a bright, zingy and refreshing beer. As they say themselves: “An easy drinking mixed fermentation tart ale built with pilsner malt and pale wheat.”

Gose-type beer is a beer originally made in Germany in the Goslar salt mining region, where the local water contributed the salty element.

Ballykilcavan Export Bambrick’s Brown Ale, 7.5%, Whiskey Chats Birthday Pack

“I’m in farming mode now,” said Ballykilcavan’s David Walsh-Kemmis as he joined a recent Zoom where the subject was whiskey. Whiskey? Yes, indeed. Ballykilcavan has been building strong links with the national spirit over the past decade or so. Their barley is used by Waterford while Irish Distillers have used their oak to make a limited amount of casks (for Dair Ghaelach).

This particular beer was one of the non-whiskey drinks for the Zoom tasting. David explained that the brewery is part of the diversification of the farm: “This is the export version of Bambrick, nice and malty with toffee and caramel, at 7.8%. Very much a malt beer yet not malt driven, a real flavour beer. It’s made with amber and crystal malt from our own barley.”

Deep brown going on black is the colour here, with a tan head. Aromas are chocolate and coffee. It is indeed rich and satisfying on the palate, a broad deep flavour, but quite a balance there too, maybe something mineral from their spring water and the land through which it flows, to help you to both enjoy the chocolate and burnt toffee flavours and enable the refreshing finish.

So what’s an American brown ale? The New York Times says: 

Brown ales and like-minded styles — including straightforward lagers, pilsners and porters — to name a few, are very different sorts of beers (to IPAs). They occupy subtler realms, quenching thirst with pure flavors and perhaps a snappy zestiness in the case of pilsner and a rich depth in the case of porter. They are not flamboyant styles that wow with complexity or make themselves the centers of attention. They simply satisfy. It’s the kind of beer that gets left behind in our I.P.A. culture.

The Beer Bible: Standard American Brown Ales generally weigh in at about 5% ABV and are accented toward malt richness.

Reckon the standard 5.8% Ballykilcavan Bamrick’s more or less fits the bill while this Export has a bonus for you!

Boundary Love is Here Hoppy Table Beer Pale Ale 2.6%, 440ml can Bradleys

On the lookout for a low alcohol beer? This Belfast offering, weighing in at 2.6 abv, could well fit the bill. Known in France as bière de table, table beers—are a low-ABV, malty, Belgian tradition.

Here though the tables are turned and this is a hoppy one. Boundary say: A full on hop assault in the kettle and fermenter ensures this low abv beer packs a punch. 

This is a hazy beer with a white head over a lemon-juice coloured body. The hops used are an American trio of Cascade, Citra and Simcoe and the Australian Vic Secret. Expect pine notes along with exotic fruit such as mango, pineapple and grapefruit and indeed that is what you get.

Superbly flavourful for a such a slight abv and just enough bitter notes to ensure a refreshing and balanced finish. Enjoy one. Or two!

Merlot’s the link in a couple of superb wines from Puglia and Bergerac

Merlot’s the link in a couple of superb wines from Puglia and Bergerac

Amastuola Onda Del Tempo Puglia (IGP) 2015, 14%

€19.50 Lettercollum Kitchen, Clonakilty; Morton’s of Galway; Mary Pawle Wines

Primitivo, Aglianico, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are the grape varieties that give life to Onda Del Tempo (Wave of Time), an organic wine from the warm lands of the south east of Italy (the heel of the boot).

It’s got a dense ruby red colour. Fairly intense too on the nose with red and darker berries in the mix, along with spicy notes. And it is also a little spicy on the palate where it is dry and warming, elegant too. Sixteen months in oak has helped here, tannins are smooth and pleasant. And this complex unusual blend finishes harmoniously, persistent and dry. Very Highly Recommended.

The producers are well pleased with this effort saying it is the “Maximum expression ….. of the garden vineyard.” And that each grape in the blend has “individually each express(ed) their own note”.

Excellent in combination with beef, lamb, pasta, pizza and aged cheeses. Serve at 16-18 degrees.

Puglia has long been noted for its production of olives responsible for close to fifty per cent of the country’s total. Though I should add that a relation, who had some growing there, told me a few years ago that many are just left to rot on the bush. Grapes are the second biggest crop there now, especially those for red wine. 

Terroir Feely Résonance Vin de France Rouge 2017, 13.0%

 €22.00 Ballymaloe Garden Shop at the Cookery School, The Little Green Grocer, Kilkenny, On The Grapevine, Dalkey, Co. Dublin and Mary Pawle Wines

Ruby red in the glass and aromas of black cherry, plum and red berries almost jump out at you. And the palate is packed, deliciously, with flavours of the same fruit, a little hint of spice in the background. Tannins are mid to smooth and, with the fruit and spice staying the distance, there’s a most engaging and lengthy finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Serve at 16-18 °C. This Merlot is an ideal match for lamb and spicy dishes says importer Mary Pawle. Pasta and pizza and dark chocolate, say the winemakers. Personally, I’ve had good experience with Osso Bucco. Generally moderate in both acidity and tannin, Merlot is quite versatile at the table. 

It is also the most widely grown red grape in France, most famously in the Pomerol area of Bordeaux where a bottle of Pétrus could set you back several thousand euro.

Who are the Feelys? In their own words: “When Sean and I (Caro born Caroline Wardle) met in Johannesburg in 1993 we both had a passion for wine. Sean’s grandfather was a winegrower in the Cape of South Africa and I had been sharing a house with a Master of Wine. We wanted to pursue our dream of winefarming so we moved to Cape Town to continue our careers in the heart of the winelands.

Shortly afterwards we had an opportunity to move to Ireland. With Irish roots we jumped at the chance. A year later on our first wine trip to France we were smitten. Eight more years of work and saving and our dream came to fruition.”

The Feelys have one of the best wine websites around. Check up on their wines, yoga, vineyard visits, and accommodation here.  

Minister Simon Coveney joins Belvelly Smoke House to celebrate 40 years of food production!

press release

Frank Hederman and Belvelly Smoke House celebrate 40 years of food production

Minister for Foreign Affairs Simon Coveney with Frank Hederman (right)

Minister for Foreign Affairs Simon Coveney joins Frank Hederman and Caroline Workman in Cobh to celebrate the significant milestone

Belvelly Smoke House is celebrating 40 successful years in business this year. It is owned and run by husband and wife team Frank Hederman and Caroline Workman. Highlights from their 40 years in business include featuring on the menu at the State banquet held for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth’s 80th birthday celebrations and its selection for the Ryder Cup menu when it was held in Dublin in 2006.

Hederman’s private client list includes royalty, Ambassadors, Irish rock bands, international film directors and actors.

Frank Hederman was one of Rick Stein’s food heroes and Hederman’s salmon has been a regular feature on the menu at his famous seafood restaurant in Padstow and on his TV series. Frank’s smoked salmon was also used by Chef Richard Corrigan’s winning first course on BBC’s Great British Menu. Frank has been featured on numerous TV documentaries and travel shows and The New York Times famously said “To say Frank Hederman smokes fish is to say that Steinway makes pianos”.

Belvelly Smoke House, established in 1982 and located near the town of Cobh, is Ireland’s only authentic timber smoke house for Irish salmon. Growing up in a seaside town, Frank Hederman was inspired by the bustling activity of fishermen and the local boats landing with salmon catches. He began smoking salmon in a cupboard–like room and is a self-taught craftsman and businessman. A local and family focussed business, Frank’s late father and mother, his brother and children were all involved over the years. Now, Frank and his wife Caroline run the business. 

The company employs eight people, a number which doubles during the busy Christmas period.  Products from Belvelly Smoke House have appeared on menus such as Rick Stein’s, and on the counters of food halls such as Fortnum and Mason for decades. 

Minister for Foreign Affairs, Simon Coveney joined Frank and Caroline in Cobh to celebrate the success of the business. 

Minister Coveney said: “This is a fantastic achievement for all of the team at Belvelly Smoke House, especially for Frank and Caroline as they celebrate 40 years in business this year. Their products are enjoyed all over the world and they are truly great ambassadors for Irish food production. I wish them all the success for future as they develop and grow their business from Cobh.”

Last week Frank Hederman became the first Irish person to receive the Walter Scheel Medal, the prestigious annual European culinary prize that recognises outstanding contributions to European culinary culture. Previous winners include Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger of Taittinger Champagne and Spanish Chef Ferran Adrià of El Bulli. The award comes as Belvelly Smoke House celebrates 40 successful years in business. The Walter Scheel judges praised Frank’s traditional smoking methods, as well as his ‘four-decade dedication to producing the finest possible quality smoked salmon’, stating that Frank ‘redefined one of the most iconic products of Ireland’s culinary heritage.’ 

Frank Hederman said: “We’re feeling happy and proud to have reached our 40 year milestone. Recognition by the Walter Scheel Medal is good for business and it’s good for company morale. We work hard and we’ve done well, so the team deserve that recognition. The award is also for our local community that support us week in week out when they shop at the English Market and farmers markets in Midleton and Cobh. In so doing they are keeping an important food tradition alive and well.”

As well as smoked salmon, Belvelly Smoke House also produces smoked mackerel, eel, haddock, mussels, butter, spices, nuts and a wide range of handmade pates, fishcakes and Hederman at Home dishes which are produced in the Smoke House kitchen. These products are available locally in their English Market shop and at farmers’ markets. Their salmon products are available to buy online for delivery to North America, mainland Europe and Ireland.

Caroline added: “It’s a really harsh world out there and we feel incredibly lucky to have survived and thrived this long and to have all the support and friendships we enjoy through the business. Most of all it is hugely satisfying knowing that so many people enjoy eating what we enjoy making.”