A Bordeaux "Super Sleeper" and a Relatively Unknown from Umbria

A Bordeaux "Super Sleeper" and a Relatively Unknown from Umbria

Le Doyenné 1er Côtes de Bordeaux AC 2011, 13.5% 

€19.00 (was 25.45) 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Colour of this Bordeaux blend is a mid-ruby with a noticeably lighter rim. Tears are slow enough to clear. Red and black cherries lead the aromatics and there is some spice there also. And that fruit and mild spice also mingle elegantly on the palate, a smooth a palate as you are likely to come across. Really well balanced. Lovely finish with a little grip. Very Highly Recommended.

The blend is headed by Merlot (at 70%) with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc making up the remainder. Château Le Doyenné results from mature parcels of vines. The wine is aged in oak barrels for 18 months.

Records dating as far back as 1791 mention the existence of Château Le Doyenné which was purchased in 1994 by Jean and Marie-Dominique Watrin. With “flying-winemaker” Michel Rolland acting as consultant, they undertook a complete reconstruction of the vineyard and renovation of the winery. The 13 hectares of the estate, located on the right bank of the Garonne, 15 km from Bordeaux, are in the heart of the “Premières Côtes de Bordeaux” appellation.

The 2011 Le Doyenné is not the first to attract attention. The Wine Advocate - Robert Parker checked out the 2005 and wrote:  A super sleeper of the vintage like its predecessors, the 2005 Le Doyenné is well-made..... Blend of 70% merlot and 30% cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc, it exhalts sexy aromatics, superb fruit, medium-body, velvety tannin, loads of glycerin and elevated alcohol 13+%. Available for a song, this lovely offering should drink well for 5-6 years.

Much the same can be confidently said of the 2011.

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Tenuta Bellafonte Sperella Montefalco Bianco (DOC) 2019 12.5% 

€19.95   64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Sperella is produced with the grapes of the younger vineyards of Tenuta Bellafonte. The free-run must is fermented spontaneously at controlled temperature, the wine matures for about 5 months on the lees in stainless steel tanks. Once bottled it refines in bottle for some months before being released during the spring after the harvest. It is vinified from indigenous yeasts and bottled without filtration

Colour is a strong straw. Lime and Bergamot feature in the aromatics. Citrus notes continue on the palate, pineapple too; it is intensely fresh and full of supple character with a backbone of minerality. Impressive body too. Highly Recommended.

It comes from the small area of Montefalco, part of Umbria perhaps best known for its tannic red Sagrantino.

The vineyard expands on it: “The area of Montefalco, and more generally the Umbria region, can boast a deep-rooted tradition not only for reds but also for white wines. Particularly fresh wines, intriguing for their structure and surprising with the evolution. These wines, thanks to a particular gastronomic vocation, has always been side by side, to the typical reds of the territory.”

As the area has only come to any kind of international prominence in recent decades, many will not have heard of it, or of its Sagrantino and certainly not of its Spoletino grapes from which this white is produced. Sometimes you will see Trebbiano Spoletino  (as you do on this label) but the addition of Trebbiano is not helpful as it is a name shared between quite a few different Italian grape varieties (some of which are not even related)..

The owner Peter Heilbron is a relative newcomer. About 15 years ago, he was the busy MD of Heineken Italy. Then he and his wife Sabina purchased this wonderful 40-ha property and set aside 11 hectares for the vineyard (the rest of the land is dedicated to woodland, orchards and olive trees).

Heilbron designed his winery, completed in 2010, building it into the clay and marl hillside with subterranean porous walls made from gabions, steel baskets filled with stones. The winery is energy independent, using solar panels for electricity and generating heat and hot water by burning vine cuttings in a biomass boiler.

This should be a versatile wine at the table. Mussels and fries, Scallops and black-pudding, white meats such as chicken or pork (and probably a few red meats as well), along with vegetable dishes and mushrooms, may be essayed.

2022 Beer of the Year. Confirmed to date

 2022

Beer of the Year 

Confirmed to date

March: Lineman Schadenfreude Schwarzbier

February: Wicklow Wolf  “Apex Cherry” Black Cherry Oatmeal Stout.

January: Whiplash Dry the Rain Double Decoction Dunkel

December: Lough Gill Mac Nutty Macadamia Nut

*********

Best of March (short list)

Schwarzbier: Lineman Schadenfreude Schwarzbier 5.9%

IPA: Boundary Inefficient Knowledge IPA 6%;

Weizenbock:Whitefield The Viscount Weizenbock 7.5% 

Pale Ale: Third Barrel Shut Up Juice

Black IPA: Rascals Rude Girl Black IPA

Session: Boundary Trees We Didn’t Plant Pale Ale 4.0%

Best of February 2022 Short List

Oatmeal Stout: Wicklow Wolf  “Apex Cherry” Black Cherry 

BA Stout: Bradleys & Dot Brew Shady Dealings

Milk Stout: Trouble Brewing Nocturne Milk Stout

IPA: Killarney Scarlet Pimpernel

Smoked Porter: Whitefield Old Smoke Smoked Porter; 

Porter: Clonakilty Smuggler Irish Porter. 

Bitter: West Cork Baltimore Bitter

Session: Blacks The Session Pink Grapefruit IPA 3.4%

Rye IPA: Wicklow Wolf Canis Rufus

Dark Lager: Whitefield Ivy Hall

Gold Lager: Whiplash Dawn Chorus Helles. 

Best of January 2022 Short List

Dark Lager: Whiplash Dry the Rain Double Decoction Dunkel

Oats IPA: Hope Overnight Oats IPA.

Session IPA: Porterhouse Sundown Session IPA

American Pale Ale: O Brother The Chancer APA

Barleywine: Brehon Brewhouse Red Right Hand Barley Wine Beer

NEIPA: Porterhouse Renegade New England IPA

Stout: West Cork Stout X Stout West

Blonde: Killarney Golden Spear Blonde

Best of December (2021, for 2022) Short List

Brown Ale: Lough Gill Mac Nutty Macadamia Nut.

Single Hop IPA: Eight Degrees Citra Single Hop IPA 5.7%

Cask-Aged Porter: Brehon Brewhouse Shanco Dubh Porter 8.8%

Coffee & Oatmeal Stout: Third Circle Shot In The Dark

Pale Ale: Lineman Fluid Dynamic Extra Pale Ale.

Single Malt IPA: Eight Degrees Full Irish 6.0%

Session: Whitefield Brewery “Woodville” Session Pale Ale 4.3%

Lager: Whiplash Das Model. 

"More pétillant than fizzy". Another amazing new cider from Killahora:

Another amazing new cider from Killahora: "more pétillant than fizzy"

Killahora Orchards Bottle Conditioned Dry Bittersweet Cider 2019, 5.9%, 750ml (champagne style) bottle

Colour is close to that of apple juice. Quite murky though, so you won’t see the bubbles rising unless you look down on top of the glass. Remember though that the goal here was “to be more pétillant than overly fizzy” and that has certainly been achieved.

Aromas are definitely of the orchard. There’s quite a posse of flavours on the palate, delicious light fruit flavours (not just those of an Irish orchard), moderate spices too, and just the slightest hint of the oak. Amazingly well balanced and a long dry finish. 

Be sure and swirl this around on the palate, the better to appreciate the many qualities of a rather special drink, a flavourful and honest record of the south-facing Killahora slopes where the apples were grown and the cider made.

This is a “first production” version, a blend of some of their finest ciders from 2019 (mostly), barrel-aged and allowed to mature in the cellar. “It is our first production of a pure dry bottle conditioned cider made from 100% juice, wild fermented and with nothing added. Serve at 8-10 degrees and with spicy foods or meat.”

That blend? Killahora: It’s a ‘3 year blend’ inspired by Belgian Oude Gueze – so takes c. 30% from 2018 barrel aged cider, 55% from 2019 barrel aged and the remaining 15% from our 2020 harvest from the fermentation tank.  This hadn’t fully fermented so gave a bit of residual sugar but more importantly a fermentation kickstart – we didn’t want to add commercial yeast.” The final label will have a gold foil on it and will be based around a 2020 blend, but with very similar characteristics.

The producers recommend a serving temp of 8-12 degrees.  “Chill horizontally and pour first few glasses without pause to minimise sediment if the aesthetics are preferred – however there is a lot of goodness in the lees so don’t be shy to drink it!”

“As a pairing,” they say, “this is robust in taste so would go well with pork belly, Korean chicken wings, Mexican, oily fish like mackerel and funky cheeses.”  We tried it with Pork Belly (with some apple sauce made from The Apple Farm’s Bramleys) and it worked a treat.

Killahora have noted “more interest internationally in these natural wine style productions which really show off the potential complexity of cider when we step away from the more accepted methods of industrial production.  Would appeal to natural wine and lambic drinkers as well as seasoned cider drinkers.” Personally, I’m not too sure you need to be a seasoned cider drinker to enjoy this beauty, our Taste of the Week.

The Maritime Hotel & Bantry Town. Great Base For West Cork & South East Kerry

The Maritime Hotel & Bantry Town

Great Base For West Cork & South East Kerry.

Our base for a recent quick trip to Bantry was the town's Maritime Hotel. And an excellent place it is, with very courteous staff, from reception, to bar to breakfast. Comfortable spacious rooms here, all with a view over the harbour. 

Made a call to the bar and confirmed (again) The Maritime supports local drinks producers - gins, whiskey and beer - and I was delighted to see the 9 White Deer Kölsch on draught. What a superbly refreshing drink, a fine reward after a walk on sunny Sheep’s Head.

And breakfast is good, served in an impressive room. There is a hot buffet but here it is regularly refreshed. And you have the usual juices, meats and cheese too, and breads of course. No shortage at all. The long low rise hotel ais  few steps from the main square, has its own underground car park and that, with a lift up to reception, is very convenient. Recommended.

Brendan the Navigator

It is also very convenient as a base for touring. We didn’t have all that much time on this occasion and our main trip was to the fabulous Sheep’s Head Peninsula and that walk on the Goat’s Path. But Mizen and Beara are also within easy reach and you can head for Kerry via the spectacular Healy Pass.

Corner of the breakfast room

After our Friday breakfast, we headed uphill to a place called Vaughan’s Pass though I think the locals call it Sheskin and you’ll also see Dromleigh Heights on signs. Turn up High Street and look out for the signs (you do go past the local hospital). A good Sat-Nav or this Google Maps link should get you there. You will see some large communication aerials on the top as you approach and there is a car park.

It is well worth making this trip, particularly on a clear day as you will see spectacular views of the Bantry area, the harbour including Whiddy Island and right across to Glengarriff. Very Highly Recommended,

We took our time there for a while before heading back down to the town and the fantastic Friday morning market, held in the impressive Wolfe Tone Square where statues of St Brendan and Wolfe Tone himself stand. 

Aside from the food, you can buy carpets and other household items, lots of bric-a-brac and certainly lots and lots of tools. I think there were at least three stalls selling hand tools there on that Friday and they seemed popular. This being Bantry, you will also find a stall selling fishing gear. Quite a varied market and one that will be getting better as the days get longer. Our main purchase was a box of plants, now happily taking root in the back garden!

On this trip:

The Fish Kitchen 

Garden goodies from the
market's Natural Growing
Company

Donemark West Restaurant

Sheep’s Head Peninsula

Previous Trips:

A Couple of Days in West Cork

Manning’s Emporium. Syrian Food.  An Eagle’s Nest.

Burgundy on the Beach. Room with a View. Magic. 

 

Glengarriff’s Eccles Hotel

Bantry’s Donemark West Restaurant

Bantry’s Donemark West Restaurant

Chicken

You’ll find one of the Bantry's best restaurants in Donemark West. Donemark what? You may well ask. Well Donemark West is a small but excellent restaurant in a cottage type building between Bantry and Ballylickey. 

You’ll find them waiting at the door for you with a warm welcome and soon they’ll have you seated with menus in hand. Service, from start to finish, was just as friendly as  the welcome, helpful too without being intrusive in any way

The seating is varied. There are a couple of tables for two, a few booths for four, a circular booth for six and another free standing table for six. Large windows look out across the road but the blinds were down when we visited perhaps to shade us from the setting sun. There are roadworks in slow progress outside but don’t worry as Donemark has its own parking yard. 

We called there towards the end of March for dinner, nibbling on their excellent breads and dips while waiting for our starters. Our options included Warm Scampi Salad, Golden Fried Brie with Sweet Chilli Jam, or Union Hall Smoked Salmon all off the regular menu while the Specials were Leek and Potato Soup, Chicken Liver Paté with Smoked Skeaghanore Duck and Local Crab Toes in Garlic Butter.

Crab

Those delicious crap toes were my pick. CL absolutely enjoyed her Peri Peri Warm Chicken Salad. I got a taste of that and the chicken, so well cooked, was also really high class, as good as you’ll get. 

And they kept coming up with the good things. Again I went to the Specials board (they do tell you all about them in any case) for my Grilled Fillets of John Dory with a Prawn and white wine sauce. Looked great and tasted even better. 

Meanwhile the fish theme continued with our other mains of Baked Fillet of Cod with a garlic crumb, cauliflower purée and bacon crumb, another delicious and well executed dish. 

John Dory and prawns

We knew there were sides coming but more than surprised when four dishes arrived for sharing: red cabbage, mash potato, fries and carrots. Again all nicely cooked, not too hard, not too soft. Lovely and all as they were, we didn’t get through all the sides but the main dishes were certainly polished off with gusto.

Other mains on offer that evening were Honeyed breast of Barbary Duck; two different steaks, Dry aged fillet and Dry aged Ribeye; and a Wild Mushroom Risotto with Parmesan and Salad. And they have a wide ranging selection of wines to choose from.

To finish we could pick from their Cheeseboard or from desserts such as Meringue Kisses with cream, strawberries and caramel sauce; Creamed Rice Pudding with ice cream; or Vanilla Crème Brûlée. We decided to share the Warm Chocolate Fondant with Praline and ice cream, a real treat for the finalé.

Cod

The place was buzzing at this point but that didn't stop our main server from seeing us to the door and saying good night. Like I said, a friendly spot with good food. 

Also on this trip:

Sheep's Head Peninsula

The Fish Kitchen

Maritime Hotel

Nationwide Dining Week. Over 100 restaurants have already joined.

media release

Nationwide Dining Week. 

Over 100 restaurants have already joined.

Supported by the Restaurants Association of Ireland and Fáilte Ireland

Restaurants are invited to sign up to Dining Week!

Reach up to 1 million customers – from 19th to 28th April 2022

Restaurants nationwide are invited to sign up to a new hospitality incentive ‘Dining Week’, taking place from 19th to 28 April 2022. Utilising a new booking platform ‘Early Table’, the ten-day promotion will give a much-needed boost to the restaurant sector as it emerges from two years of lockdowns. Over 100 restaurants nationwide, from Bistros to Fine Dining, across all cuisines, have already registered to make the most of the opportunity to see their business benefit from a package of promotions aimed at filling tables at quiet times. 

 Dining Week is supported by the Restaurants Association of Ireland and Fáilte Ireland, with over 300 restaurants expected to take part.  Diners that book early via the Early Table platform, will receive a 25% discount on their food, filling tables that would otherwise sit idle.

Restaurants load tables onto the Early Table platform according to how many extra customers they want to attract on that given day or night. Through a comprehensive marketing and PR programme, Dining Week will be promoted to over 1 million potential diners, across media, broadcast and online.

When: Tuesday 19th to Thursday 28th of April

The Cost: It’s free to list your restaurant and there are no commission fees

Your Offer: 25% off food only, drinks charged at full price

The Bonus: All Dining Week restaurants can stay featured on Early Table platform year round, free of charge.

To participate in Dining Week, contact: Mason.mcgovern@earlytable.ie / 0857306327

Or visit: https://diningweek.ie/

Please see social channels below:  

https://www.instagram.com/earlytable.ie/

https://www.facebook.com/earlytable.ie/

https://twitter.com/Early_Table

https://www.linkedin.com/company/80490996/  

Dining Week is proudly sponsored by WorldPay from FIS

Frank's One of the Very Best. Euro Honour for Hederman Smoke House

Frank Hederman of Belvelly Smoke House becomes first Irish person to win prestigious European culinary award

Frank and Caroline on top of the world.

Frank Hederman has become the first Irish person to receive the Walter Scheel Medal, the prestigious annual European culinary prize that recognises outstanding contributions to European culinary culture.

Previous winners include Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger of Taittinger Champagne and Spanish Chef Ferran Adrià of El Bulli. The award comes as Belvelly Smoke House celebrates 40 successful years in business. 

Belvelly Smoke House, established in 1982 and located near the town of Cobh, is Ireland’s only authentic timber smoke house for Irish salmon. The Walter Scheel judges praised Frank’s traditional smoking methods, as well as his ‘four-decade dedication to producing the finest possible quality smoked salmon’, stating that Frank ‘redefined one of the most iconic products of Ireland’s culinary heritage.’ 

The Walter Scheel Medal celebrates recipients as a valuable and integral part of Europe’s rich cultural heritage and it promotes unique culinary traditions in order to preserve them. It also rewards a commitment to quality by producers considered to be the best in their field. 

Growing up in a seaside town, Frank Hederman was inspired by the bustling activity of fishermen and the local boats landing with salmon catches. He began smoking salmon in a cupboard–like room and is a self-taught craftsman and businessman. A local and family focussed business, Frank’s late father and mother, his brother and children were all involved over the years. Now, Frank and his wife Caroline run the business. 

The company employs eight people, a number which doubles during the busy Christmas period.  Products from Belvelly Smoke House have appeared on menus such as Rick Stein’s, and on the counters of food halls such as Fortnum & Mason for decades. 

Frank Hederman said: “This award is recognition from a prestigious European organisation for the authenticity and singular quality of the food we make, the skill and hard work that goes into it, and the perseverance that’s required to keep a food business like ours going. It’s an opportunity to pause and take stock of all the people along the way who have worked with us, supported us and believed in us, and to thank them sincerely.”

“It’s a great day for Irish food. It’s the first time the Walter Scheel medal has been awarded in Ireland and it also recognises the excellence of our raw materials and food markets and independent shops - all that makes up our food culture.”

As well as smoked salmon, Belvelly Smoke House also produces smoked mackerel, eel, haddock, mussels, butter, spices, nuts and a wide range of handmade pates, fishcakes and Hederman at Home dishes which are produced in the Smoke House kitchen. These products are available locally in their English Market shop and at farmers’ markets. Their salmon products are available to buy online for delivery to North America, mainland Europe and Ireland.

Caroline added: “It’s a really harsh world out there and we feel incredibly lucky to have survived and thrived this long and to have all the support and friendships we enjoy through the business. Most of all it is hugely satisfying knowing that so many people enjoy eating what we enjoy making. This award is also for our customers, they are as instrumental as the producers are in creating the vibrant food community that this award recognises.”

Minister for Foreign Affairs, Simon Coveney said: "I would like to congratulate Frank Hederman on becoming the first Irish person to receive the Walter Scheel Medal. This is a huge honour for Frank and indeed for the Irish food industry as this award recognises outstanding contributions to European culinary culture. It is a double celebration as Belvelly Smoke House is celebrating 40 years in business this year and I look forward to visiting soon. Frank is a true ambassador nationally and internationally for Ireland's food culture and his products are world renowned. This award shows that Frank and Caroline and the team at Belvelly Smoke House are considered to be the best in their field on the world stage."

Established in 2014 in memory of the fourth President of the Federal Republic of Germany, Walter Scheel, the Medal promotes cuisines, wines, regional food specialities and gastronomic traditions, and it emphasises their ability to bring people together. 

To celebrate the award there will be a ceremony at Belvelly which will be attended by MEP Deirdre Clune, Dr Christoph Wirtz who presides over the Walter Scheel Medal, his colleague Dr Dominik Dortmann, the German Ambassador, Cord Meier-Klodt and Colm O’Gorman, Executive Director of Amnesty International Ireland. Caroline and Frank will also host a breakfast on the Promenade at Cobh Farmers’ Market with all proceeds going to Amnesty International Ireland and St Vincent de Paul.

 

The Walter Scheel Medal organisers will also be given to a tour of the English Market by local food historian, Regina Sexton, followed by lunch created by Claire Nash, a keen ambassador for local food at Nash 19, Princes Street.

The Fish Kitchen Delivers Once Again

 The Fish Kitchen Delivers Once Again

Delighted to get the chance to call to the Fish Kitchen during a recent visit to Bantry. We got the best of weather while in the seaside town and in the popular upstairs restaurant we got the best of fish.

Of course, we got the warmest of welcomes from Diarmaid and his team. It was quite busy and their outside seats were filling up quickly and we were quite happy to go upstairs and watch the sun splashed world go by from a good perch.

No time for people watching though until we’d taken in the details of the menu on the blackboard, a menu that changes quite often, depending on what the local boats have brought in. 

It may be hake, haddock, cod, tuna or John Dory or some other fish. Haddock or Hake may be your fish in the Fish and Chips while the likes of Tuna may appear as a starter, for instance Tuna Carpaccio with Mango and Chili Salsa. Later on, dinner choices may include a seafood pappardelle Pasta Mariniere with Garlic Bread, a half or full Bantry Bay Lobster,  or a sharing platter.

Our lunch selection was quite extensive, no shortage of choice. There was a Courgette and Red Pepper Soup, Battered Haddock and Chips (including Mushy peas), Pan-fried Hake with Lemon and Herb Butter, veg and potato, Breaded Lemon Sole, Red Prawn Thai Curry, and an Open Crabmeat Sandwich, all well priced. I really should have picked the Half Dozen Sherkin Island Oysters for €11.00! But, with a big dinner scheduled for the evening, I was being a little cautious!

My choice was a Bowl of Chowder and half an open Prawn sandwich (12.00). Quite a feed actually, so perhaps my caution about the oysters was justified! The Chowder was delicious, packed with proper fish and veg, great value too by the way.

CL’s pick was Fish Cakes & Calamari (13.50) with sweet chili mayo, all on a house salad. Another packed plateful and another delicious one. By the way, a bowl of fries also appeared and they too were excellent.

No desserts ordered - we were heading for a walk on the beautiful Sheep’s Head Peninsula which is just a few miles out of the town. Some tempting sweets on their blackboard though including a Zesty Lemon Posset, a Mixed Berry Meringue, Sticky Toffee Pudding, Vanilla Creme Brûlée and a seasonal Rhubarb Crumble.

The wine list is short, appropriately slanted more to whites than reds, six in all available by the glass (three whites, two reds and a bubbles). It includes an Albariño, a Riesling, a Chablis and a French Sauvignon Blanc and Prosecco of course. There’s a rosé also but only by the bottle.

Like all our restaurants and cafés, the Fish Kitchen is again finding its way in these post (?) covid days so expect changes to menus and opening times. Probably the best way to keep up to date is via their Facebook Page.  I can heartily recommend this friendly place and, by the way, if you are self-catering in the area, the family fish-shop, the Central Fish Market, is downstairs!

Also on this trip:

Sheep's Head Peninsula

Donemark West Restaurant

Maritime Hotel