Jacques and the outdoor city. Dining out on the banks of the Lee.

 Jacques and the outdoor city. Dining out on the banks of the Lee. 

A delicious meal in Jacques last Thursday, was book-ended by a two-part walk around part of the city as Corkonians packed the many outdoor dining spaces that have sprung up in recent weeks.

Started by Thompsons in MacCurtain Street, then Isaacs. Greenes and Cask have their own “outdoor space” and that too was busy. The Metropole had a shaded, almost hidden, line of tables. The Shelbourne Bar has always had a lively outdoor area and that is now slightly enlarged. And so it continues on both sides of the street, most notably Son of a Bun. No such joy though for Bridge Street, with Da Mirco and others frustrated and hoping for an early resumption of indoor dining.

Sliced gets the evening sun on Parnell Place

The Patrick Street space outside Le Chateau was packed. And then came the tight squeeze of Carey’s Lane where you had to watch your step while willingly giving the servers the right of way as they sought the clear path between the many tables from many restaurants and cafes. Harmony reigned in the tight spaces, no dissonant exchanges, just the soft jovial buzz of young and old enjoying the outdoors city. 

Rory Gallagher Square was similarly abuzz with diners and drinkers and busy too was very narrow French Church Street though the likes of Cafe Mexicana is temporarily shuttered.

Leaving aside, for this time, the busy Cornmarket Street, Washington Street, Popes Quay, so many other side streets and squares, we headed across Patrick Street to Princes Street which the whole world knows by now is the epicentre of outdoor dining in the city, certainly the best-covered of the streets. Now we were heading for Jacques on Oliver Plunkett Street and noticed quite a few pubs had seats out and those seats full.

Crab. And Bushbys

Had a quick look at Pembroke Street and that was busy too. Our destination was Phoenix Street and the original front entrance of Jacques and here we got a big and warm welcome from co-owners and co-founders Eithne and sister Jacque. Soon we were seated and studying the menu. You may also enter from the Oliver Plunkett Street door where Jacques have more outside tables.

And then a little coincidence. Hours earlier, Facebook showed me a memory from the same date (15th July) in 2017, of a crab and strawberry starter at Jacques. And yes, Crab and Strawberry featured again. The details: Fresh Castletownbere Crab Salad, Mixed Leaves, Bushby Strawberries and Mint (14.90).  Couldn’t resist going for this rather substantial starter again and was well satisfied with a super combination of tastes, textures and flavours. Lots of nibbles and small plates here, including Rossmore Oysters.

More Bushbys!

Lobster featured on the mains. Tempted by that for sure but since we had enjoyed it (as take-out) recently and also because I had been on a run of fish dishes, I decided to go with the lamb. I liked the description: Rump of Lamb Greek style (pink) in a crust of small seeds, green beans, tomato, olives, Ardsallagh Goats Cheese, and Crispy potatoes (28.00). I’ve been very happy indeed with some of my recent fish dishes and glad to report that the Jacques lamb was in that top class bracket as well, indeed one of the best lamb dishes I’ve come across in a long time. Very Highly Recommended.

I’ve also been delighted with recent desserts and that trend continued too at Jacques. Well, there’s never any hesitation if you read Bushbys on the menu: Bushby Strawberries, Vanilla ice-cream and honeycomb (7.50). Superb. Those Bushbys are the best and brought a lovely meal in the urban outdoors to a sweet conclusion!

The outdoor "dining room" of Princes Street

As it happened, our Jacques table was directly opposite the space between Crane Lane and Arthur Mayne and I got a close up of that well-weathered timber door and the old brick steps that lead into that space (an long-standing sheltered, outdoor alley that has long been used for dining and drinking). That doorway by the way is now used as exit only and, in fairness, every customer that I saw approach read the notice and went back to enter via the Pembroke Street door of Arthur Maynes. Both places are under the Cork Heritage pubs umbrella and also had tables on Phoenix Street.

The sturdy door and brickwork at Crane Lane/Arthur Maynes

The sun was still strong as we two happy customers left our Jacques table and headed for a stroll and a look at Oliver Plunkett Street diners, lots of them, especially at the junction of the street with Caroline Street, many people enjoying the offerings of Jacques, the Oliver Plunkett itself, Cafe 115 and the Old Oak. And then another smaller concentration of diners outside the doors of Goldie, Elbow Lane and their mothership Market Lane. And a glance up Maylor Street revealed even more outdoor tables and diners!

Keep on keeping on. Hands mural at Harley's Street

We crossed the Mary Elmes bridge (lots of plastic bottles on the deck by the seating - didn’t spot any bin) to Patrick’s Quay. I had heard about the Harley’s Street market but didn’t expect it to be open in the evening. But open it was and busy too as customers lined up for smaller bites plus coffees from the likes of Taco Rebel, Bevs and Brews, and BBQ pop-up Bird Song and others.

Our stroll around was now coming to an end as we crossed MacCurtain Street and headed for the hills!

Leeside

The Long Pergola of Roses in Bloom at Blarney Castle Grounds.

Blarney Castle Grounds.

 Roses in Bloom.

Photos July 13th 2021.

Cardoon, a close relative of the Artichoke

Busy bee

Unusual hive, lots of activity visible, not so much in pic.

More busy bees here

A Brown Butterfly, one of a four together.

Fern Tree Garden

In full bloom

Foxglove

Cactus

Montbretia

Sweetpea

Tiger Lily

For a guided tour of the pergola of roses, check out this excellent video by Castle gardeners Adam and Olivia here.

Taste of the Week. On The Double. Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms: Garlic Scape Pesto & Wild Irish Samphire

Taste of the Week.

Samphire

Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms' Garlic Scape Pesto

Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms' Irish Marsh Samphire

Always worth taking a punt on Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms, even when it's not a mushroom on offer. These two terrific recent examples are very highly recommended indeed.

First up is their seasonal Garlic Scape Pesto produced with "Ireland's finest garlic scapes" that they source from @westcorkgarlic. The scape is the long flower stem from bulb garlic. We bought a little jar through Neighbourfood and the flavour packed in there is amazing, really gets those taste buds up and running. We tried it in a ham and salad sandwich on the local Arbutus sourdough. Leaves and onions from the garden, the ham from Supervalu's signature range plus this superb pesto.

Garlic scapes. WikimediaImages via Pixabay 

Look out for the pesto on your local Neighbourfood or at markets where Ballyhoura trade such as the Milk Market and Mahon Point. They are very happy with it themselves: "a Garlic Pesto more akin to a tapenade made with Ireland's Finest Garlic Scapes".

The Irish Marsh Samphire is another seasonal gem - no air miles attached - and again I bought a box of it via Neighbourfood. Ballyhoura say: Delicious salty and succulent seasonal Wild Irish Samphire aka sea asparagus. Delicious with any fish dish, mushrooms, potatoes, or simply sautéed in butter."

Tried it with a nice piece of salmon and new potatoes, butter and not a whole pile more. Superb. There's certainly a salty tang from it but there is something clean and fresh about it, not as sharp as your normal salt. Another local product well worth a try!

Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms

Conrad Dublin Invites You To Shop, Stay And Stroll This Summer

 CONRAD DUBLIN INVITES YOU TO

Shop, Stay and Stroll this Summer

 

 Stay in style at Conrad Dublin this summer and experience their gorgeous new packages, especially created with luxury in mind.

Conrad Dublin has just launched a choice of three overnight packages available from €269 per night (two adults sharing).   For those aching for some retail therapy or wanting to experience the annual summer sales, then the Conrad Dublin Shopping Retreat escape will certainly appeal. This ultimate overnight shopping experience includes a personal shopping collection service from Brown Thomas Department Store or from your favourite Grafton Street shop. Guests will also be treated to luxury facial masks with champagne and strawberries to enjoy in the comfort of their room post shopping excursion.   Guests will savour a leisurely breakfast the following morning, early check-in, late check-out plus complimentary overnight onsite car parking.

Conrad Dublin’s Special Moments package will interest all who have missed the many milestone moments during lockdown.  Stay with a loved one and celebrate your most special moments with a decadent overnight stay enjoying champagne cocktails and dinner for two at The Terrace, plus delicious breakfast the following morning.  The package also offers early check-in, late check-out plus complimentary overnight onsite car parking. 

Conrad Dublin is an ideal breakaway location for couples looking for a romantic night away, friends looking to reconnect and for families too, it offers spacious interconnecting accommodation each with a 48-inch TV, free Wi-Fi, welcome room amenities and super kid friendly menus.  Treat the kids to some style and culture and book Conrad Dublin’s Junior Package from €449 with large interconnecting King and Twin bedrooms affording you the luxury of space as a family and includes all the essential comforts of home, a cosy sanctuary after a busy day seeing the sights. 

The VIK’s (very important kids) will be greeted upon check-in with a personalised Conrad Dublin passport and staying in bedroom heaven, sleeping on especially pre-selected children bed linens (The White Company Linen, in a choice of blue or pink), with their own personal in-room tee-pee play area and a fabulous OMY (recycled and sustainable products) giant colouring poster with felt pens to occupy a few hours whilst mum and dad grab some precious moments together.  

After exploring Dublin city, families can retire to the comfort of their rooms with a turndown treat of cookies & milk plus a gorgeous bedtime story from a selection by acclaimed children’s picturebook illustrator Chris Haughton for the children. For Conrad Dublin’s smallest guests, cots are available upon request, as well as a baby bathtub and bottle warmer.  Awaken refreshed, and energised and enjoy a delicious family breakfast before departure.

Dublin has lots to offer families, and with nearby cultural attractions including MoLI (Museum of Literature Ireland) where you can catch the Chris Haughton exhibition, a lovely opportunity for children to 'walk through' Haughton’s classic story A Bit Lost, while collecting souvenir animals along the way. And don't worry, there are lots of interesting moments for grown-ups too!   

At the National Gallery of Ireland, the entire family can explore the city’s rich treasures.  Dublin Zoo and Airfield Estate are also popular venues for visiting families, and the concierge team at Conrad Dublin will be at-hand to guide families ensuring they maximise their time and have lots of fun too.   The package also offers breakfast for the family, early check-in, late check-out plus complimentary overnight onsite car parking. Package rate is based on a family of 4 (2 adults and two children under 12 years).

For those looking to workout during their stay, hotel guests also have access to the hotel gymnasium and also are in easy reach of Dublin’s green spaces including the gorgeous Iveagh Gardens and iconic St. Stephen’s Green. 

Last year, Conrad Dublin launched a brand-new concept – The Terrace Kitchen & Social House complementing the popular Pantry & Café.  The heated outdoor terrace is an amazing spot to enjoy the views of the newly renovated piazza on Earlsfort Terrace and neighbouring National Concert Hall, where you can sit, sip and dine whilst watching the world pass by.  

Conrad Dublin operates under strict Covid-19 policies and procedures https://www.hilton.com/en/corporate/cleanstay/

Press Release

From Dingle to Kenmare in the Kingdom. Highlights galore on Kerry coastal drive.

From Dingle to Kenmare in the Kingdom.

Highlights galore on Kerry coastal drive.

The strand from high up on Clogher.

We got in of our favourite walks, Bray Head on Valentia Island. A brewery tour and terrific food at the Tom Crean Base Camp was another highlight. Lucky too in that we stayed at three lovely places, all helpful, especially Hannah at Muxnaw Lodge who drove us back into town for dinner when we asked for a taxi. The weather in Kenmare was wet but we had a magical night strolling around Dingle’s harbour after a massive feed at the Fish Box. And much more on a recent 3-night 4-day trip in Kerry.

Dingle boats

The drive down from Cork took us first to Tralee and a look at the impressive Tralee Bay Wetlands Eco & Activity Park. Lots of activity here for families, including pedal boats on the lake and a massive climbing wall for the adventurous. Had hoped to enjoy a lunch here but it wasn’t to be; all the café had to offer were over-sweetened waffles. Perhaps the menu will expand as the season goes on and as more visitors come. Our server did indicate that they hope to have sandwiches and salads (these already appear on the online menu).

Soon we were on the road to Dingle via the Conor Pass of course. Great views of Dingle from the parking area at the top and they get a little better if you climb up the hill alongside. A few minutes later we were in Dingle itself and heading for the coast. Both Ventry and Slea Head were packed so our first real stop was Clogher. Time for another walk to the top here and great 360 views that include the Blaskets and Sybil Head.

Fish Box on Green Street, Dingle

Craft Ale by Dick Mack

Enjoyed that interlude and we headed back to Dingle and to Bambury’s Guest-house, our base for the night. Enjoyed the welcome here and took it easy for a short spell before heading out looking for food. The Fish Box was our destination. It was first come first served. We didn't have to wait long for our table in one of their outside booths. Here they have some sixty covers. 

The owners, the Flannery family, have their own boat and the menu is mainly about fish. Quality is good but quantity is massive.  Ours,  The Fish Box and the Spice Box, came not on  plates but on trays. Quite a choice here but if you are going for one of the boxes you’d be advised to skip the starter. We didn’t! 

We saw pints coming in. The Fish Box is more or less next door to Dick Macks and you can enjoy the ale and the stout from the micro-brewery. And there’s also cider from Stonewell and a short wine list. After that, we strolled down to the water where the views and sounds of the sea and the many boats were enthralling. Great buzz there too with people hanging out, some going  canoeing and others returning from their boat trips.

Bray Head Walk

Glenbeigh mussels in the hotel

Next morning after a lovely breakfast from Bernie and her Bambury team, we were on the road again, this time heading for the Iveragh peninsula. First stop was the car park for Bray Head Walk at the southern end (Portmagee) of the island. There is a parking charge of two euro. We’ve had better days on this marvellous walk but even on a dull day it is enjoyable with views out towards the Skelligs, the cliffs and back towards Portmagee  and the bridge (on which my father worked) that links it to the island. I didn’t time it but I think the walk to the tower at the top and return takes something under 90 minutes, probably less if you’re under 70 and not taking so many photos!

Glenbeigh Hotel breakfast

Our base for the night was the old Glenbeigh Hotel with its own parking and large gardens. Though most of the meals are served in the old bar, a large one, they also have a beautifully decorated Garden Room where we enjoyed a really good breakfast. No surprise to us at that stage as the evening meal was quite splendid and featured some excellent fish dishes including their Seafood Mariniere for example, packed with fish (fresh salmon and white fish) and shellfish (mussels and prawns). There’s a very friendly and efficient team in place. The only downside was the hit and miss (mostly miss) WiFi.

We could see over the gardens to Rossbeigh beach from our window and we headed there after breakfast for a long walk. Back on the road then, heading for a stop at Waterville. Busy enough here with Micko Dwyer and Charlie Chaplin in their usual positions.

We had some early afternoon appointments in Kenmare so didn’t have as much time as usual to dally. The rain arrived in Kenmare at the same time as ourselves and kept getting worse until about seven in the evening by which time we had packed in a lot, including our visit to Tom Crean’s.

That started with a tour of the micro-brewery given by co-founder and brewer Bill Sheppard. Like his wife, Aileen Crean O’Brien (grand-daughter of the famous Antarctic explorer Tom), Bill is a get and go person. They now have a range of about eight beers and you can read all about them and the tour here. Bill's tour includes details on the beer and his method of brewing of course but he also details Tom Crean’s adventures there along with the tale of the trip that the family made to the region in 2016.

Breads in the morning at Muxnaw

 Aileen is the cook here, quite an accomplished one indeed. Watch out for her fish dishes. I reckon her Star Seafood Fish Pie is as good as you’ll get anywhere! And, of courses we had a few beers, including their lovely 6 Magpies Stout to go with the food.

After the tour, we had headed to nearby Muxnaw Lodge (WiFi didn’t function here either) in its lofty location overlooking the bridge. Here, we asked owner Hannah to phone a taxi for us to return for the meal. She wasn’t having any of it and drove us over herself! We really appreciated that very much indeed and the lovely breakfast the following morning.

Also on this trip: Tom Crean Base Camp Kenmare where you'll find a B&B, a micro-brewery and a restaurant. Eat, Drink and Sleep!

Tom Crean Base Camp. Eat. Drink. Sleep

 Tom Crean Base Camp. Eat. Drink. Sleep.

Special delivery! That's the brewery van in the background.

The young sheep rush into their new ground and the words con brio come to mind as they dash hither and thither and investigate their new surroundings on a grassy slope near Kenmare.

And the same words could well be applied to the enterprise at the top of the town’s Main Street painted blue and known as the Tom Crean Base Camp. Aileen Crean O’Brien, grand-daughter of the legendary Antarctic explorer, leads a team than runs a B&B, a restaurant and a micro-brewery, all under the one roof.

Aileen on Carrauntoohil. Pic from Tom Crean Base Camp.

Aileen and her family seem to have inherited the determination, endurance and enterprise of her grandfather. Indeed, in 2016 a bunch of them set off for South Georgia to see at first hand what Tom had experienced in his third trip to the region (this with the explorer Shackleton). 

They certainly experienced the real thing and Aileen ended up with a broken leg and they had to wait to get to Chile to get that sorted. And, on her return, she didn’t sit back and take it easy but resumed her duties as head of the kitchen. Staff, we were told, gave her and her crutch a wide berth for a while!

Bill, in the brewery

Friends had told us that Aileen is an accomplished cook, having learned the ropes in the kitchen at the town’s famous Park Hotel under the guidance of Michelin head chef Matt d’Arcy. They later married and opened their own restaurant but Matt’s untimely death meant Aileen had to leave the business while she raised her young family. She came back in 2009 and refurbished and renamed the restaurant and accommodation in honour of her grandfather. And it keeps expanding.

The latest enterprise is their micro brewery and that was our first visit on what turned out to be quite a day in Kenmare. We had booked our tour for 3.00pm and met our guide Bill Sheppard who co-founded the brewery with Aileen in 2019. The couple had met during one of her trips to India and they married earlier this year.

Bill was born in Chester in the northwest of England. He worked as a fire fighter in the London Fire Brigade and later graduated from Chester University with a degree in Archaeology.  Now he has retrained as a brewer and is turning out quite a range of Tom Crean beers, everything from the 1% Last man Standing to the Six Magpies Stout with lots of ales (pale and red and IPA) in between.

Most of the sales are direct from their premises and he also delivers around the town pushing his trusty sack-truck. But they do have a van. After all they have customers in other Kerry towns including, appropriately, Tom Crean’s birthplace of Annascaul. 

As Bill told us the story behind the brewery, we sipped from a number of the beers, including the St Bridget’s Lager; the saint was a brewer herself. Druid’s, the wheat beer, “celebrates the landscape” and another new beer, Kerry Surf & Turf, is a tribute to land and the sea. He reckons his 6 Magpie Stout is as good as any around and Aileen uses it in one of her beef pies.

Fish Pie

The café here is a daytime venture, understandable as they also do B& B here and the day is long enough. So, from 9.00am to 4.00pm, you may have breakfast and lunch. After that, up to 6.00pm or so, there’s pizzas and a few specials as well. And all of this, at the time of writing, is in an improvised outdoor setting in the yard alongside the little brewery. Outdoor yes but well covered; it lashed when we dined after the tour and, while the place is airy enough, not a drop got through! Suppliers are all local and you can guess where the beer comes from! 

The highlight for me was “Star Seafoods Gratin” (Scallop shell, piped with mash, cod, salmon, mussels, vegges, seafood sauce, Cheddar Cheese, and Billy’s Mixed organic leaves, with fries), all in all a superb fish pie! CL meanwhile was quiet enough, concentrating on her very tasty Fish Cakes with Pineapple Salsa, Chips and Salad.  No shortage of fish in those cakes. By coincidence, Star Seafoods are a local Kenmare firm and we get quite a few deliveries from them here in Cork city, indeed, I saw them selling fish in Blarney yesterday, a very efficient outfit indeed. 

Fish Cakes

Both the starters were excellent as well: the Panko Coated Prawns (sweet chilli dip with Billy’s organic mixed leaves in a honey and mustard dressing) and the BBQ Chicken Wings (Indian Mint Dip - low fat Greek style yogurt with chilli and mixed organic leaves).

Newcomers, the Bonane Babes

Aileen, after her shift in the kitchen, then came out for a chat and that brings me back to the sheep. “Big day tomorrow getting our sheep for my front garden.  We finally got a herd number,” she told us.  “We produce our own electricity (P.V. panels provided by local firm Pro-Solar). and use the spent grain for dog biscuits (customers' dogs benefitted!) and muffins.  We will be able to feed the sheep the spent grain now and, later on, sell the lamb in the restaurant.  We are also awaiting our number for pigs and will do the same with them.  Really excited about it all.” The sheep, two boys and two girls, are settling in well and are already known as the Bonane Babes.

Quite an enterprise going on here. Quite a woman. Think her grandfather would be very proud of what Aileen and the family have accomplished here. And they’re are not finished yet!

Also on this trip: Three Days in Kerry, from Dingle to Kenmare. Check out the sights, the food, the hotels and B&Bs here.

Tour de Munster at the Base Camp last month. Pic from Tom Crean Base Camp.