Thursday, September 17, 2020

Before and after with Chateau Feely. Mystery from Wines of the World. O'Briens Whiskey Cuts. And more on wine, beer and spirits in Cheers #21

Before and after with Chateau Feely in the Dordogne.  

Mystery from Wines of the World. O'Briens Whiskey Cuts. And more on wine, beer and spirits in Cheers #21

Mystery???


2005

Now

BEFORE AND AFTER PHOTOS AT CHATEAU FEELY

If you read Caro’s books you know that Caro and Sean Feely bought this farm that was in liquidation in 2005. It was run down and in partial ruin. Each year, as budget allows, the Feelys lovingly restore another piece of this small piece of paradise.

In this post Caro shares some photos from the archives and an excerpt from Grape Expectations, from the day friends, Helen and Derek Melser, cleared the brush and forest and the Feelys discovered the building that would become the Wine Lodge. Much more here as they followed their dream in the Dordogne. 



Wines Of The World


Wines Of The World have two interesting items this week. 

1 - LAST CHANCE TO BUY!
 

"Our next virtual tasting is something special.

This time we are pairing Wine & Chocolate.

Worth over €120, purchase now for just €99

- over a 20% saving!"


2 - This week they put the spotlight on 2 favourites from Australia and 2 from Chile. 


All the details here.




New offers have landed in the Irish Whiskey Sale at O'Briens

The weather is fine, and the O’Briens Irish Whiskey Sale continues, what more could we ask for! This week in the blog we are giving you the inside track on some unique Irish Whiskeys featured in the sale. Natterjack, Dingle, Writers Tears reduced - all the details here


Wines Direct And Winemaker Pier Paolo Antolini Give Finger To Covid 19

The cool thing about this case (other than the excellent wine and its funky label) is its ageing potential. It may be the best time capsule from this crazy moment in time. Who cannot wait to look back on all of this in the rearview mirror while sipping a smooth and beautifully aged Amarone? The Valpolicella Classico is ready for drinking now but can be put away for a few years. The rest can be put away for 5+ years and the Amarone for 10+ years! Just be sure to age your wine in a cool, dark place where temperatures do not fluctuate. More details here

RESTORE AND EXPLORE IN THE HEART OF THE KINGDOM

 PRESS RELEASE


RESTORE AND EXPLORE IN THE HEART OF THE KINGDOM

 


The 4-star, Cahernane House Hotel in Killarney, Co. Kerry offers guests a chance to withdraw from the busy world and to find time for themselves to indulge in great food, to enjoy the soundest of sleeps and to explore the great outdoors. The gardens of this wonderful old country house will soon wear the colours of autumn and the annual seasonal, leafy display shows natures colours at their golden best.   With its mature gardens, elegant drawing rooms, open log fires and stunning interiors, this 18th century country house hotel is just the place to escape to.

Set on the edge of Killarney National Park and lakes, the historic country house enjoys a tranquil, secluded location yet is just a twenty-minute stroll into Killarney town itself. 

 

The Restore and Explore package (from €285 per person sharing) includes two nights bed and breakfast for two people, tea and scones in the elegant drawing room overlooking the gardens and a glass of bubbles on arrival.  There is also a complimentary history tour and guests are guaranteed a truly restorative sleep, thanks to the Seventh Heaven Beds and absolute peace and quiet of the house. 

The following day, following a great night’s sleep you will be refreshed and ready to head out and explore Killarney National Park which surrounds the house and is within walking distance of Cahernane.  Killarney National Park is stunning during the autumn period as the ancient trees are clothed in the most vibrant autumn colours. After your exploration, what could be nicer or more peaceful than sitting down in front of roaring fire with a glass of wine or a pint of the black stuff?

 

Built in 1877, the property has been sympathetically remodeled by the current owners, PREM Group who have spent over €7.8 million on an ambitious renewal programme. There are 12 bedrooms in the original Manor House, 28 in the Garden Wing and the former Coach House, once home to the horses and carriages of the Herbert family who built the house is now the setting for 8 new luxurious bedrooms. Inside the Manor House there is a grand dining room and drawing room, a light filled atrium, library and the quirky, Cellar Bar which serves delicious food. Original antiques, paintings and stunning chandeliers set the tone for classic country elegance and guests will find numerous peaceful rooms to escape to with a book and retreat from the busy world.

 

The Coach House is a completely separate building to the main Manor House and is available for exclusive hire for families or friends. This beautiful old stone cut building has its own separate entrances which allows guest staying here to minimise their interaction with others if they so wish.  Several dining options will also allow for social distancing with dining options including The Herbert Restaurant, The Cellar Bar, the Library and Atrium.   Al Fresco dining in the extensive gardens and terraces will also be offered and if you want to get out and explore the locality you can ask chef to prepare a picnic to bring with you.

 


O’Briens Wine September Sale In Full Swing

 O’Briens Wine September Sale In Full Swing

The O’Briens Wine September Sale is in full swing. With about 100 wines reduced you might be in need of some pointers and here are a few of my picks!



Chanson Chablis (AC) 2018, 13%, €16.95 (25.95)


Pale gold is the colour. Aromas are delicate but persistent, citrus fruit, and floral notes too. Fruit flavours are assertive and harmonious and it also boasts the benefit of a fairly rich mouthfeel. A palate full of life plus a refreshing lingering finish. What’s not to like?


It is, of course, one hundred percent Chardonnay, raised on limestone hills south of the village of Chablis. The year had its up and downs before the August harvest was carried out in perfect conditions, grapes ripe and healthy, the wine precise with a beautiful fruit combination.


Food pairing suggested: Pâté, lobsters and poultry as well as some goat cheeses.

O’Briens are enthusiastic: With Chanson's wines now performing at the top level thanks to more than a decade under Bollinger's wing, this Chablis has never been better. … electrifies the palate and has considerable richness for Chablis - ..a real stunner!


Domaine Chanson dates to 1750 and lies in the heart of Burgundy’s Beaune region. In 1999, the estate was sold to Champagne Bollinger.


Chanson Fleurie (AC) 2018, 13.5%, €16.95  (18.95) 


In Beaujolais generally, there is a continuity of quality, almost a guarantee of it, if you move up a step or two to the ten crus and the villages that ring them. Fleurie, like all the crus, is in the north east of the Beaujolais region. Here the Gamay grape thrives on the granite soil, the wines always refreshing and never short of acidity.



Colour of this beauty is a bright mid-ruby. Abundant aromas of cherries and spice. Juicy in the mouth; no shortage of red berries (strawberries, raspberries) and sweet cherry in delicious combination, smooth and well balanced, refreshing too with excellent length. It is, of course, 100% Gamay and no oak has been used by the winemakers.


Did you know that the Gamay grape is an “exile” in Beaujolais? In 1395, it was outlawed by Royal decree, using Trump-like language, as being “a very bad and disloyal plant”. Sixty years later another edict was issued against it. And so it was pushed out of Burgundy and south into neighbouring Beaujolais where it has thrived on the granite based soils.


By the way, the ten crus that produce the flagship wines are: Chiroubles, Saint Amour, Fleurie, Régnié, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Juliénas, Chénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent.



Ortas “Prestige” Rasteau (AOC) 2015, 14.5%, €17.95 (19.95) 



Rasteau, about 40 minutes east of the Rhone, sits on a hill in the Vaucluse, one of the five departments of Provence, and the climate is typically Mediterranean (meaning a high level of grape maturity). It is to the north of better known villages such as Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise. The village also has the distinction of making fortified wines (vin doux naturel) including a deep coloured red.  


I’ve long had a soft spot for Rasteau reds and this dark-red coloured wine keeps me very much onside. Just have to love its rich nose, the red and darker berry flavours, the juice on the velvety palate, a good dash of spice too and those smooth tannins.Terrific balance between wine and wood and a super finish as well. 


The grape varieties in this Prestige are the GSM trio (from old vines) of Grenace, Syrah and Mourvedre. Serve at 15 to 16 degrees and you’ll find it goes well with red meats, roast small game and rich cheeses.




Lingenfelder “Bird Label” Riesling 2018, 11.5%, €13.45 (15.45)


The Lingenfelder family, winemakers in the Pfalz area of Germany since 1520, produce this Bird-Label Riesling, one of their "Vineyard Creatures" series that also includes the Hare (Gewürztraminer) and the Fox (Dornfelder) .


Pfalz is in the south west of Germany. It is one of the driest and warmest areas there but still a cool climate. Wines can be more full bodied here in good years. 2018 was warm and dry and some of the 2018 are "not too heavy". All hand-picked, all wild fermented, they rely on the natural yeasts that are all around the cellar. “Authenticity is very important to us,” Georg,  the 14th generation of the family in wine, told a Cork audience last year.


This Riesling is off dry and delicious. It has the typical Riesling aromas (citrus-y), is fresh and elegant and may be enjoyed as an aperitif or with light or spicy dishes.

#DrinkResponsibly


Wednesday, September 16, 2020

CONRAD DUBLIN'S NEW TERRACE KITCHEN, SOCIAL HOUSE & PANTRY AND CAFÉ













Press release

CONRAD DUBLIN'S NEW TERRACE KITCHEN
 SOCIAL HOUSE & PANTRY AND CAFÉ 

Conrad Dublin’s exciting new Food & Beverage concept has taken shape quietly during lockdown and replaces what used to be Alfie Byrnes.


The hotel’s response to Covid-19 was to provide a safe haven for its guests and long standing customers to enjoy arguably Dublin’s best outdoor space set in the new Piazza on Earlsfort Terrace which was recently reopened following an impressive refurbishment.

The Piazza was re-designed by famed landscape architect Robert Townshend whose vision was to create a space for the city, local residents and people working in the adjacent building to enjoy. Comprising, four symmetrical gardens with a reflection pool in the centre and amphitheatre style seating this is a tranquil oasis in the centre of Dublin 2 just off St. Stephens Green with an ever evolving garden that moves from season to season.

“The concept for the Terrace was born when the hotel seized an opportunity to place a converted horsebox, creatively named the ‘Horsebox’, on the Piazza taking full advantage of the vista and sun trap. Serving gourmet coffee and snacks to a few locals and passers-by at a time when the city was effectively empty, the team at Conrad Dublin decided to expand on this offering following the success of the ‘Horsebox’” said general manager, Martin Mangan.

Buratta

The design narrative and concept for the space was to create a local neighbourhood venue inspired by nature and simple design. 

This involved using as many natural materials as possible, upcycling and recycling and bringing the beautiful outdoor gardens indoors, but also taking full advantage of Robert Townshend’s amazing design & gardens.

The natural place to start was the Terrace Pantry & Café which features solid recycled oak planks and tables that have been repurposed to make the counter, refurbished vintage industrial lighting, the old phone booths remain from yesteryear and are now the perfect place to cocoon and do some work.

The offering is not just another coffee shop.

Serving organic and single origin coffee, the most amazing pastries by the team in the Conrad Kitchen, poke bowls, artisan sandwiches, a large selection of wine from the Conrad cellar at very affordable prices, home bakes, breads, organic vegetables, the best of Irish Cheeses, charcuterie, olive oils, baking ingredients and an unusual array of hard to find Japanese and Asian products.


The Terrace Kitchen and Social House followed quickly. The name was important as it did not want to be pigeon holed as a restaurant or bar, but rather a place to meet, eat, drink and socialise.

Open 7 days a week for breakfast/brunch, lunch, Afternoon Tea & dinner the vibe is very much chilled out with cool tunes by secret DJ, stripped back service, marble tables and soft leather chairs inside.

In the centre of the space is an island bar, which for now guests cannot sit at due to covid-19 guidelines, but the team believes this will become a destination for those looking for some casual dining or somewhere to enjoy a hand crafted cocktail or a glass of Champagne.

The outdoor terrace is an amazing spot to enjoy the views of the gardens and sip a glass of champagne whilst watching the world pass by. Henriot Champagne the only remaining independent family run house in Champagne who has been a partner of the Conrad for some years now has branded the outdoor terrace with classy white umbrellas. The menu is simple and uncomplicated, changing with the seasons, the offering is very much bistro serving a menu based around the best seasonal Irish Ingredients, many of which are available for sale in the pantry next door. Firm favourites are the Fritto Misto and Chef Gary Rogers’ own take on the traditional club sandwich, served on open homemade sourdough with buttermilk chicken, yum!

The interior features soft shades of green throughout, indoor planting features heavily along with marble, brass, leather and wood, which adds a touch of luxury, but very much understated. Distinct areas for dining and enjoying a drink create a unique space with lots of options and cubby holes to hide away. The service is friendly and professional yet relaxed and informal.

The team at The Terrace are working on a few other concepts, which are yet to be unveiled. The hotel is operating under strict Covid-19 policies and procedures Covid-19 Policies

To pre-book a table please call +353 1 6028876 or E: theterracekitchen@ConradHotels.com


Tuesday, September 15, 2020

A Quart of Ale± #12. Moving on over to craft with IPAs by Thornbridge, White Hag, Heaney, and Brehon.

A Quart of Ale± #12
Moving on over to craft. 

India Pale Ale

Thornbridge “Jaipur” IPA 5.9%, 330ml can Bradley’s of Cork
Pale straw is the colour of this modern (2005) classic. Jaipur comes with over 100 worldwide awards. This iconic American style IPA has a complexity of flavour created by a six-dimensional hop experience.

Funnily enough, this is held up as an example of the English IPA in the Brewdog book Craft Beer for the People. Hard for us amateurs to determine the style of a beer if the likes of Thornbridge and Brew Dog can't agree. Anyhow, we'll have fun trying.

It wears this complexity lightly though and you’ll have no problem sipping your way through this beauty from the UK brewery. It has a fairly cloudy pale yellow colour and hoppy aromas (faint whiff of citrus, even fainter one of pine). Smooth on the palate, hoppy, citrus notes too, and a beautiful balance all the way to lip-smacking hoppy finish. Not too much more to say except that this is more or less the perfect IPA.

Match with Thai Curry, they say.

Hops: Chinook, Centennial, Ahtanum, Simcoe, Columbus, Cascade.
Malts: Low Colour Maris Otter.

The White Hag “Bran & Sceolan” 7.2%, 330ml can Bradley’s of Cork

A very pale amber, quite hazy. High levels of dry hopping in this one yield aromas of citrus. And that same citrus, now a juicy burst, makes for a delightful flavoursome palate, little if any sign of the high alcohol in the smooth mouthfeel. Terrific balance and an excellent drink overall. The IBU figure is 45 but, like the 7.2% abv, it is not a major factor for this drinker.
.
They say: Bran and Sceolan were the two wolfhounds of warrior Fionn Mac Cumhaill, born to his aunt after she was magically transferred into an Irish Wolfhound by her husband’s ex lover. The story of these strong legends is as intense and complex as the flavours in this beer. An American-style IPA brewed with 100% Irish malt.



Heaney “Big Little IPA” 4.2%, 440ml can Bradley’s of Cork

Colour is yellow, a hazy yellow. The soft head is short-lived, not that it matters a while pile, unless you like the ice-cream look! Aromas are hoppy and fruity (exotic). Quite a hoppy fruity punch considering the abv, a big hitter for sure, and a bitter wash around the gums and lips with an edgy aftertaste. Wouldn’t recommend this if you were starting out on good quality ales but by all means go for it if you have been trying a few litres.

This is a farmhouse brewery and the water comes from the Heaney farm spring. Don’t think I’ve had a Heaney before. I can tell they’re in Bellaghy, Co. Derry. The Big Little is unfiltered, unpasteurised, and they recommend pairing it with spicy dishes. I don’t have an IBU for this but I’d imagine it is fairly high.

They say:  Big Little IPA. Only a little 4.2% but plenty of big hops to satisfy your hop desires. Soft bitterness, juicy citrus hops and a dry thirst quenching finish. Perfect for summer. Summer lol. It's summer right?

Brehon Brewhouse “Stony Grey” IPA 6.0%, 550ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork

This has a close to amber colour. Nice mix in the aromas, floral notes and hints from the malt. And much the same elements combine on the palate giving a terrific balance, smooth all the way to the dry finish. A very pleasant beer indeed. A superb beer actually and probably closer to a real English IPA than the others. 

I should be paying more attention here and have some more notes for you but I’m trying to watch Analyse This on a movie channel and they aren’t talking IPA, more like KIA*. In any event, it looks like I have another brewery to add to my short list as the recently tried Brehon’s Ulster Black Oatmeal Stout is another star.

They say: Great on its own but just perfect with spicy foods like Indian, Mexican, chicken wings or mild blue cheese, lemon curd cake or key lime pie. Serve around 8 degrees. Our small brewery is housed on the farm, just a short distance from the old homestead.We are set amongst the rolling drumlins of County Monaghan, just a few miles from the birthplace of Patrick Kavanagh, the inspiration for our India Pale Ale –  Stony Grey IPA.

* KIA Killed In Action.

Monday, September 14, 2020

Clonakilty’s Historic Fernhill House Hotel: Lovely Lunch and Visit

Clonakilty’s Fernhill House Hotel: Lovely Lunch and Visit
Salmon


An invitation to visit Fernhill House Hotel in Clonakilty was immediately taken up and we spent an very interesting few hours here, much of it in the company of our host Michael O’Neill, the fourth generation of the family who have been here since the 1940s. The original house itself was built in 1826 and the hotel has grown up around it. And it all sits in the middle of 14 acres of gardens in 3 sections, one managed, another semi-wild, and the other part more or less wild. Michael took us through the house and gardens.


Fernhill has historic connections. The man credited with the foundation of social justice in Australia was born here. His son, Lord Atkin, is credited with the initiation of compensation for civil claims, the famous case of the snail in the bottle of ginger ale. Michael Collins, who lived close by, visited here and, during WW2, the Irish army were billeted here. 


Strong literary connections also, ranging from Margaret Wolfe Hungerford, the Victorian novelist, credited with the phrase “beauty is in the eye of the beholder” to Louise O’Neill author of the bang up to date “Asking for it”. We’ll return to the house and gardens in future posts.


After our tour we sat down for lunch in the bright and airy dining room. The menu was encouraging, full of local produce, from the likes of Gubbeen, Cashel Blue, O’Neill’s Black Pudding, Shannonvale, Toonsbridge, Macroom Buffalo, Michael Twomey, Union Hall, not to mention herbs, veg and fruit from their own garden.


Loads of choices in the starter section. Everything from soup to large plates and also sandwiches and salads and various combinations on offer. 

Featherblade


CL picked the Citrus Cured Union Hall Salmon (shaved fennel and orange, marinated beetroot, mixed leaf salad, orange vinaigrette). Union Hall, another family firm, are highly regarded in West Cork and the Fernhill kitchen certainly made the best of the salmon.


And my Salt Cod Fishcake (chorizo and sun-dried tomato dressing, confit garlic aioli, pickled  mussels) was also excellent. A superb combination of flavour, texture and colour, a class or two above your regular fishcake offering.


The Beef Burger, with Michael Twomey’s Wagyu beef starring, was a very tempting dish on the mains, again quite a list of choices. My pick though was the Roast Agnus Feather Blade of Beef (crushed potatoes, creamed carrot and horseradish, rainbow carrot, jus roti). Very happy with that too, since again the accompaniments enhanced the leading element.

Duck



And contented sounds too from the other side of the table where CL was tucking into her Slow Cooked Barbary Duck Leg (sautéed potatoes, confit onions, buttered Savoy cabbage). Both dishes were excellently presented, nothing too fancy but neat and tidy.


We had seen apples and white raspberries growing in the garden during our tour and they turned up in the dessert menu. The Fernhill Orchard Apple Lattice Tart (served with crème anglaise, Ice-Cream, and apple crisp) made the most of the freshly picked apple while the raspberry appeared in the fruit that came with the Peach Crisp, also served with crème anglaise, Ice-Cream plus a shortbread biscuit. Lovely and warm, just like the sunny scene outside.



If you come here in the winter, or in future winters, the heat you notice originates in the garden. The O’Neills are very much into sustainability. On the walk, Michael pointed to a series of terraces on a slope near the river in the glen. Here, trees are being planted and each terrace will be harvested (and replanted) in rotation with the timber going to the hotel’s wood-burner.

Apple


There is so much going on here…

In the garden alone, you’ll see a stone circle (where Yoga sessions are held), an Ammo bunker from WW2, lots of apple trees interplanted with support plants, permaculture, those terraces of timber, and the impressive wedding facility. The plans of garden designer and artist Mary Reynolds are taking shape here but it is early days yet. You can take you’ll be seeing more and more native Irish flowers, plants and trees. So much to look forward to. 


Read more about the house and its superb gardens here.


BANANAS STILL TOP CHOICE BABY SNACK

 BANANAS STILL TOP CHOICE BABY SNACK




It’s official. For the sixth year in a row, bananas are top of the list for Irish parents when it comes to choosing a snack food for their baby or toddler, according to the results of a National Parenting Product Awards competition.

 

Based in large part on a survey conducted by Millward Brown amongst parents and experts in Dublin, Cork and Limerick, Irish banana importer Fyffes’ popular ‘Freddy Fyffes’ pre-packed bananas emerged as the Gold Award winner in the Food and Feeding section of the competition.

 


Accepting the award at a virtual prize-giving ceremony, which was hosted live online, Fyffes marketing manager, Emma Hunt-Duffy thanked competition organisers adding: “it’s great to see that the natural and nourishing qualities of bananas continue to be recognised and appreciated, especially at a time when parents are so conscious of the food their child.



Press release

Gold on the treble for Kinsale Gin in San Francisco

press release 

Kinsale Gin tops the charts at the International 2020 Bartender Spirits Awards winning gold in three categories


 


 

Kinsale Gin has completely surpassed expectations at the Bartender Spirits Awards in the USA by taking gold across three categories.

 

Kinsale Gin was awarded Gin Of The YearGin Producer Of The Year, and a Double Gold at highly prestigious international awards. This small-batch, premium Irish Gin has been distilled with local botanicals and derives its flavour from the Kinsale country-side. With elegant amounts of juniper, notes of meadowsweet, elderflower combine with aromas of lemon verbena and germanium. Other interesting and unusual botanicals underscore Kinsale Gin's complex personality. Very versatile either in a G&T or your favourite gin-based cocktail.

 

The Bartender Spirits Awards aim to provide independent and honest reviews for brands who are looking to enter the U.S. on-premise industry. The judging panel consists of some of the most renowned names in the U.S. bar industry, all of them with extensive expertise within the on-premise industry. The results serve as a relevant and practical source of reference for bartenders, bar managers, bar owners, and other industry professionals when making purchasing decisions for their establishments, opening many doors internationally for this Cork brand.

 

Speaking about this outstanding achievement for Kinsale Gin, publican and entrepreneur Ernest Cantillon says “We are really delighted with the awards as they couldn’t have come at a better time - we have just launched both Kinsale Gin and Red Earl in the US. These awards are based in San Francisco so the US credibility and press are invaluable.”

 

The competition recognizes that bartenders are the true influencers – their passions and tastes provide direction for the consumer, especially via their guidance with wine, beer or spirit recommendations. “We really wanted a way to recognize those spirits that would be a great addition to any bar and that are completely on-trend in terms of packaging and price,” said Sid Patel, Founder and CEO of Beverage Trade Network. “Whether bartenders are looking to plug a very specific gap in their existing spirits inventory, or construct an entirely new cocktail menu from scratch, what better advice could they get than from fellow bartenders? Medals were awarded to those spirits that meet very specific judging criteria, with a goal of identifying spirits that should become additions to bar inventories. Each spirits brand was evaluated on Mixability, Balance and Versatility, Taste, Mouthfeel and Finish, Package and Price.

 

Kinsale Gin was one of 7 double gold winners which scored 96 and more points. The 2020 competition saw submissions from 34 countries including some new additions like Lebanon, Kazakhstan, Switzerland.

 

‘Covid-19 has had a huge impact on the industry,’ explained Sid Patel, CEO of Beverage Trade Network, the Organizer company of BSA, ‘and when we come out of this, we hope to see a strong rebound in the hospitality sector. The increased number of quantity in 2020 submissions truly demonstrated the faith our industry has in the long term outlook of our hospitality industry’.

 

Kinsale Gin is owned by Cork’s Kinsale Spirit Company - co-founded by Ernest Cantillon, Colin Ross, and Tom O’Riordan - all current or ex-publicans who have spent their lifetimes serving drink and building extensive experience in the hospitality and beverage sectors.

Other drinks in their portfolio include the recently launched Red Early Whiskey, the first of the company’s ‘Battle of Kinsale’ series of whiskeys. The company is currently planning a new distillery for Kinsale, Co. Cork, due to open in 2021.