Tuesday, September 8, 2020

Three Treasures of the Douro with ace winemaker Luís Sottomayor

Three Treasures of the Douro with ace winemaker Luís Sottomayor


On these hills -  the white wines originate


Luís (screenshot)

Offley Vintage
Port 2018


Luís Sottomayor (left), head winemaker of Sogrape’s Douro and Port wines, threw down quite a challenge towards the end of Tuesday’s Liberty Wines Masterclass. He’s so convinced of the “great ageing potential’ of the Offley Port 2018 vintage that he asked Liberty to stage another gathering in 2045, inviting all of yesterday’s participants to meet and check up on the 2018!


Quite a few of us won’t be around then but you don't have to wait that long to enjoy this superb Port which is already drinking very well indeed. But what should you enjoy it with? Aside from good company, of course. Well, as Luis suggested, cheese and chocolate are the usual pairings, tried and tested over the decades.



But he came up with another one, a local Portuguese dish called Feijoada: beans, sausage, pork, vegetables (carrots etc), usually served with rice. “Cassoulet like” wrote participant Ligia Marques who texted in the details.


Luis started off by saying that Offley 18 is “a really classic vintage”. “We wanted to have a wine to be simpler, made for those who want to drink and understand what a classic vintage is, that they might go on and try other vintages. It is easy-drinking, tannins are there but are round.” The only difference from other vintages is that a higher quality of Tinto Roriz (perhaps better known to us as Tempranillo) was used. The others are Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca.


The aromas are pleasant, not overly complex: “Black fruit, balsamic, approachable, a wine for young consumers” “It is made from our best grapes and, on the palate, there are tannins and acidity (so many years in bottle ahead!). Very drinkable from now!”


In reponse to a question by wine-writer John Wilson, Luis said it was not easy to say how long it will last. “But is has all the essential components to live many, many years… will live after me!” Closure - why the regular cork? “This kind of cork is best for ageing the wine.”

Vinha Grande from Casa Ferreirinha


The pleasant morning masterclass continued with tastings of two Vinha Grande, one of the oldest brands of Casa Ferreirinha, itself one of the "pioneering" wine companies in the Douro. While the red was first produced in 1960, the white didn't appear until 2005. Then, as Luis explained: “We acquired high altitude vineyards in the Cima Corgo region with lots of white wine varieties.”

 

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC) Douro Branco 2019, 13%

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC)  Douro Tinto 2017, 14%




Multiple varieties are used in the Branco. The main ones are Viosinho for its aroma and Arinto/Pedema for freshness. Fifty per cent of the wine was matured in new French oak barrels for 6 months and 50% kept in stainless steel tanks before the final blend is assembled and bottled.


Luis: “Very fresh and elegant, white fruit in the aromas, some citrus, a little passionfruit. I don’t like to say minerality - I feel that doesn’t exist but the soil and the stones of the Douro do. You can feel the acidity and freshness on the palate (because of the altitude), a nicer style of Douro white."


"The grapes come from a big property, amazing quantity of different kinds of grapes, helps us every year to compose the best wines!” Must say, I loved it. It's got everything: aromatics, flavour, mouthfeel, finish. Top notch!


The red is also a blend, the fruit taken from across the Douro’s regions. Soil here by the way is all schist. The terroir and the winemaking makes for another gorgeous wine. Luis pointed to its harmony, elegance, acidity, body and aromas. “It is easy to drink but also can go with sophisticated food and lasts well in the bottle.” The grapes used are Touriga Franca (45%), Touriga Nacional (30), Tinta Roriz (20) and Tinta Barroca (5).


It spends 12 months  in French oak “not new”. “We do not want to have the aroma of oak but use it instead as a medium to knit the blend. We always like a good freshness in our wines. And the first job of wine is to pair with food.”


That led to a question: “What is your favourite food with the red?

“I prefer meat usually but Vinha Grande is more elegant and goes well with dried cod - we eat a lot of that in Portugal! And it’s brilliant with octopus.”


For me, this was another beauty, smooth, packed with flavours and fresh on the balanced palate, magnificent depth, rounded tannins and the finish is smooth, dry and long.


#drinkresponsibly

Monday, September 7, 2020

A Quart of Ale± #11 Moving on over to craft. American Style IPA

A Quart of Ale± #11
Moving on over to craft. 
American Style IPA
Part 2

First, there was IPA. In the 18th century, English beer, on its way to India was highly hopped. It became known as India pale ale and went down well with the soldiers and later found favour with drinkers at home. 

Two hundred years later, just like the empire, it was slipping into oblivion, until the Americans revived it by using their more aromatic and flavourful hops and more of them. And so the American IPA was born. And that led to a revival in the UK.

This is Part 2 (we published Part 1 last week) and here we focus on some excellent American style IPA produced here in Ireland by the likes of Kinnegar, Whiplash, Blacks and Yellowbelly.

Blacks “Ace of Haze” DDH Cryo New England IPA, 4.2%, 440ml can, Bradleys Cork
The hard-working Maudeline and Sam Black.

I have to say straight up that that this New Englander is a lovely beer, very drinkable.

But what’s a New England IPA? Blacks say: Characterised by juicy, citrus and floral flavours and a smoother less piney taste than some other IPAs you might be familiar with, New England IPA is a style that became popular in Vermont USA in the 2010s. Hazy in appearance with a soft mouthfeel, NEIPA's are brewed without adding hops to the boil and with the use of specific yeast strains to achieve the desired result. Often described as a more fruit forward IPA with lower perceived bitterness but massively hop forward with flavours and aromas derived from the use of dry hopping techniques.

This NEIPA (hardly an abbreviation!) is a hazy yellow. It weighs in at 4.2% so it certainly a session contender. No shortage of hops in the mix and it’s the fruit, citrus and exotic, that makes its mark rather than any bitterness (which is there, in the background). Very drinkable though and sure to gather up lots of fans. By the way, Blacks have at least one other Haze edition.

They say: This banging beer was brewed with passion and an absurd amount of cryogenically frozen Mosaic, Citra and Simcoe hops not forgetting a touch of inspiration from some rock classics that are commonly heard on the brewery floor on brew days. The malt bill of Barley, Oats and Wheat gives plenty of body and character but we have kept the ABV on the lower end for IPA's so you can enjoy more than 1 or 2 in a sitting.

Kinnegar “Crossroads” American Style IPA 6.2%, 440ml can Bradley’s of Cork



Colour is close to amber, plenty of bubbles rising (naturally carbonated), white head hangs around for a while. Good hoppy backbone carrying tropical fruit flavours across the palate and into the very satisfying finish. Qualifies as American style because it is rich in citrus and tropical fruit flavours with a touch of pine thrown in. One of the best cans of IPA you’re likely to come across and you can taste why this is one of their core range. 

Kinnegar’s craft beers are brewed in a new brewery in Letterkenny.  “Our roots are deeply embedded in the hilly fields and farms of northeast Donegal. This is the perfect environment for the way we make beer. We don’t filter or pasteurise, and we let our industrious little friends, the yeast, carbonate the beer naturally during fermentation.” We visited the brewery last autumn and you may read all about it here.

Originally named “Roadtrip” when brewed as a 20th birthday celebration of McHugh’s legendary Dublin off-licences, Crossroads is the Donegal brewery’s tribute to the men and women of the county’s diaspora who, like the McHughs, have made their mark on the wider world.

Whiplash Rollover Session IPA 3.8%, 330ml can, Bradley’s


Pale yellow colour with a  short-lived white head over a hazy body. Citrus fronts the aromatics. And the quartet of hops dominate the palate. Amazing that this has so much hops and still weighs in at less than 4.00% abv. Quite a concentration of hops then, before a lip-smacking finalé. “Now, that’s a beer,” my tasting companion declared (having “suffered” earlier through a Radler and a sour). 


They say: Same hop rate as our DIPA’s, less than half the alcohol. A very heavily hopped Session IPA: this comes at you with buckets of Simcoe, Ekuanot, Citra and Mosaic hops with a light touch of malts and an easy crushable body. Unfiltered, hazy, hoppy and juicy – Rollover is a New England inspired IPA without the heavy alcohol in tow.



Yellowbelly “Citra Pale Ale” American Pale Ale, 4.8%, 440ml can, Bradleys Cork


Hazy yellow is the colour here, a white head (size and length depends a lot on how you pour, probably best if on draught). You’ll probably de-juice that Citra Hops are used here. Head Brewer Declan Nixon has also employed German and Belgian malts. I think he’s judged this to a “T” and has come up with a really well-balanced beer.

A hint of pine in the aromas and this smooth drinking beer has citrus flavours, is very pleasant on the palate and, with all that, plus the help of a modest enough alcohol count of 4.8%, has that second glass appeal for sure.

Let us hear what the Wexford crew have to say for themselves: Our Citra Pale Ale is brewed with the finest German & Belgian malts, fermented with a super clean American ale yeast and dry hopped to the gills with Citra. The resulting beer should be enjoyed as fresh as possible to appreciate the grapefruit and pine aroma and super clean finish.

They regard it as a flagship beer. Citra Pale Ale can be enjoyed year-round on draught or in can from your favourite bars, restaurants and off-licences. It was voted Best Beer in Ireland 2019 – Beoir Awards. A very good one indeed.

Wicklow Wolf Mammoth IPA, 6.2%, 440ml can, Bradley’s of Cork

Colour of this West Coast IPA is amber with a nice fluffy head that sinks fairly slowly. It gets its name because a mammoth amount of Simcoe, Chinook, Cascade and Eureka! have been used to pump up the fruit. And the hops take the lead in the aromas (floral, fruit, pine) as well. 

Very much floral and citrus in the palate as you’d expect but no shortage of malt either (Pale, Cara Ruby the varieties used). Rather a muscular beer (compared, say, to Trouble Brewing’s Ambush) but the muscle’s not out of control and the Mammoth will find a welcome in any good beer circle. Hops used are Simcoe, Cascade, Chinook, Eureka! And, take heed, the IBU is a stiff 60. Serve at 8 degrees.

9 White Deer Stag IPA 5.0%, 500ml can, Bradley’s of Cork

Amber is the colour of this Gluten Free IPA from the Gaeltacht - you have to peer in to see the bubbles. The head is white and sticks around. Aromas hint of malts and hops. Big hop flavours on the palate yet the bitterness is not over the top at all, nice balance with the malts. Stag is an American style IPA according to the label. I’m thinking it fits snugly between two continents. Could mid-Atlantic be a style?

They say: A Classic IPA, using vast quantities of new age hops, this gluten free IPA is full of flavour. Hop usage is late in the boil which gives big flavours and aroma without big bitterness. IPAs never serviced the gluten free market but that is now changed, and what a beer to change it with.  A well balanced quaffable IPA bursting with flavour and aroma.

September Morning on Corrin Hill

 September Morning on Corrin Hill

Walkies on Corrin Hill
between Rathcormac and Fermoy, just off the R639.






In the cocoon: replacements


Aside from a robin greeting us at the entrance to the wood, we didn't
see or hear another bird during the one hour walk. No rabbits either,
none of the usual signs. Beginning to think there was no wildlife
here at all when, all of a sudden, three deer briefly appeared on the track.
about 300 yards ahead, too far away to get a decent photo, and they
didn't hang around in any case!


Sunday, September 6, 2020

A Red and White Wine Double from Italy's Heel.

A Red and White Wine Double
 from Italy's Heel.

Antica Enotria Bianco Puglia (IGT) 2018, 12.5% 
This light-straw coloured blend of Falanghina and Fiano comes from the organic vineyards of Raffaele di Tuccio in Puglia in the south east of Italy (the “heel of the boot”). Aromas, floral and pear, are rather delicate. The fruit though is somewhat more assertive on the palate, a crisp and refreshing acidity also features as does a streak of minerality before a reasonably persistent finish. Quite a light and elegant blend, very acceptable as an aperitif and with garden salads and good with fish too. Highly Recommended. Chill it just a little but don’t overdo it.
So what kind of grapes are Falanghina and Fiano, you might well ask. They may not be well-known outside of Italy (mainly in Campania). But, believe it or not, Grapes and Wines say Falanghina “is now one of Italy’s new star white grapes” while Fiano is an “interesting, high-quality and very fashionable southern Italian grape responsible fro Campania’s aromatic Fiano di Avellino…”. Indeed, that particular Fiano is a DOCG wine, the top Italian designation. Sounds like a pair of grapes we need to keep in mind!
By the way, the Roman name for Campania (on the opposite side of Italy to Puglia) was Campania Felix, felix meaning happy. One of the reasons was that much of their favourite Falernian wine was produced here!
Le Caveau tell us that Raffaele di Tuccio bought this run-down farmhouse, dating back to the 1700’s, in 1985 and over the past 30 years has worked tirelessly with his wife, Antonia, and son, Luigi, to bring the property back to life. The vineyards are influenced by the cooling Tramontana wind from the north, and the warming Scirocco wind from the south, giving ideal conditions for their dedication to organic viticulture and lending crispness and depth to the wines.

Natalino del Prete “Il Pioniere” Salentino (IGP) 2017, 15%


Negroamaro can be slightly “farmyardy” in flavour, according to Grapes and Wines. But they go on to say that it can be easier to appreciate if blended with a little of the far more scented, succulent Malvasia Nera (15%), as is the case here.
Colour is a solid dark red. The nose opens on clear and deep notes of overripe red and darker fruit. And that fruit is also found in the flavours on the palate, a warm welcoming wine with a persistent finish. A genuine wine of substance, pleasant with excellent drinkability. VHR
Le Caveau tells us Natalino Del Prete, organic since 1994, is a traditional grower of Southern Puglia. They also say: The Pioniere is fantastic: 70-80+ old vines of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera,… a total bargain for the quality and the story behind. Super structured but super light to drink, full of sweet spices and charm. 
The wine from the warm lands of Salentino is, as you might expect, particularly suitable to accompany typical dishes of the Mediterranean cuisine. Serve at 16/18 ° C with Aged cheeses, White meat main courses, Red meat main courses. The impurities located in the bottom of the bottle, and I did find a few “grains”, merely serve to confirm the genuineness of the product.
#drinkresponsibly 

Saturday, September 5, 2020

Taste of the Week. Salted Caramelitas by Sonas

Taste of the Week
Salted Caramelitas by Sonas 

I never know for sure what I'll find when I start shopping online at Neighbourfood. But always pretty sure that I'll have at least one taste of the week to write about.

These delicious Caramelitas, produced by Sonad Trading, have been catching the attention recently and are definitely Taste of the Week.

They sell them well on the Neighbourfood order sheet: We love the juxtaposition of salty and sweet ... and these little love bombs of deliciousness have a great balance - loads of salted caramel (made with Gloun Cross Dairy cream and Irish Atlantic Sea salt), dark chocolate, buttery organic oats, tones of vanilla ... Incredibly intense but deeply satisfying ... like an old familiar love song. 10-12 little bites in a box. They’re intense but very addictive! Do not contain nuts but made in a kitchen where nuts are used. 


Local and lovely. Couldn't have put it better myself. Go on. Treat yourself. I find them superb with the mid-morning coffee.

Blackrock based Sonas Trading is a unique mix of Irish and Malaysian. Pia Zain came from Malaysia, and was trained at Ballymaloe. She instantly fell in love with quality of food and ingredients in Ireland, and stayed! More info on Pia and her many delights here.

Friday, September 4, 2020

Amuse Bouche

 


.. the unsurpassed ingenuity of Chinese cooks in making delicious dishes out of everything under heaven, all the plants.., all the creatures, all their parts. These are legacies of scarcity. Yet truly great cuisine, food as high art, did not arise here; it arose from wealth. It was the province and the passion of the elite. Throughout history, gourmets and chefs tended to reach their heights in conditions of plenty, not need.


from The Last Chinese Chef by Nicole Mones (2007). Very Highly Recommended.

AUTUMN DAZE AT THE FIVE STAR LYRATH ESTATE


AUTUMN DAZE AT THE FIVE STAR LYRATH ESTATE, KILKENNY (IRELAND)

 

 

The Five-Star Lyrath Estate in Kilkenny has created the Autumn Daze package (for those seeking a bit of luxury and pampering this autumn (Midweek from €185pps sharing). This seasonal offer includes two nights bed and breakfast and a three course Table d'hote dinner on one evening in either the 2 AA Rosette accredited Yew Restaurant or in The Grill & Bar Restaurant. The Autumn Daze package also includes cream tea on one afternoon of your choosing.

 


Lyrath Estate is set on 170 acres of mature parkland yet is just five minutes from Kilkenny city centre.  This stunning hotel is surrounded by wonderful private walkways which are lined by mature trees.  Autumn brings a riot of colour to this beautiful estate as great oaks, beech and silver birch trees cover the grounds, arms outstretched creating walkways of gold, silver and flaming red under their boughs.  Guests can lose themselves in nature here and can explore the vast estate on foot or can avail of complimentary use of bicycles to tour around.

 

Kilkenny city will satisfy even the most ‘culturally curious’ with lots of interesting places to visit including Kilkenny Castle and St. Canice’s Cathedral which was built between 1202 and 1285.   Tours of Kilkenny Castle are available all year round and offer visitors a remarkable insight into what life might have been like for those first residents who built the castle some 800 years ago.

 

If you do not feel like moving outside the door of the hotel, then fear not there are lots of lovely experiences to enjoy at Lyrath Estate!  You could opt for a pampering treat at the multi award-winning Oasis Spa. The thermal suite in the spa includes several heating and cooling experiences including a stunning outdoor hydrotherapy pool which looks over the mature, private gardens. Or perhaps you might prefer to work out in the gym or enjoy a leisurely swim in the health club?  There is also a 22-seater private cinema, playground, outdoor covered and heated BBQ area, expansive conference centre, several meeting rooms, and a walled garden.

Extensive dining options for guests to choose from include Tupper’s Bar, The Conservatory, The Grill & Bar and the 2 AA Rosette, Yew Restaurant. For more information see www.lyrath.com or call 00353 (0) 56 7760088.


press release

Treat Yourself To The Limerick Strand Hotel Seasonal Offers

 “FALL” INTO YOU

Re-discover the simple pleasures this autumn

Limerick Strand Hotel Seasonal Offers


 

 

From the joy of spending quality time with a loved one, to having someone fix you a drink, cook you a meal and make your bed, there’s so much more to an autumn break than even before.

All of us need a break for sure, and with some great savings this autumn at award winning Limerick Strand Hotel you are guaranteed to grab a bargain as they launch there their autumn/winter offers online.

This summer their “Explore a Little More” package proved very popular indeed so they have decided to extend this offer but now offering 50% off a second night stay. Room only rates from € 115 per room per night.

Friday Night “Fall” Food Feast package will certainly appeal to those looking for a distinctive local flavour! Stay overnight with a cooked to order breakfast, glass of Prosecco before dinner and if you choose to stay on a Friday night, resident Crooner, Liam O’Brien will raise the spirits before enjoying your 3 course Fall Feast in the AA Rosette Terrace Bar & Restaurant.  Limerick reared Executive Chef, Tom Flavin who has a passion for Irish produce and traceability, has created this special menu.   With this in mind, the unique menu incorporates the freshest and finest Irish ingredients, uniquely showcased on a Map of Ireland highlighting provenance and inspired by all things local. Next morning, take a stroll to the infamous Milk Market on Saturday morning after your hearty breakfast, enjoy a tour of Treaty City Brewery and avail of some wonderful discounts for both hair and beauty treatments with 15% off Niall Colgan Hairdressing and 10% off Namaste Skin Clinic & Urban Day Spa.   Guests can also enjoy a late checkout (2pm).   Package from €125 per person sharing to include dinner, glass of bubbles, breakfast and Trinity Brewery tour.  Stay overnight midweek with dinner and breakfast from €100 per person sharing.


For families the “Little Explorers” experience has had a seasonal upgrade and includes fully air-conditioned, recently refurbished spacious family accommodation that has all the essential comforts of home, a cosy sanctuary after a busy day seeing the sights. Enjoy a movie on the 40-inch flat screen TV within the comfort of your room.   Splash around in the 20-metre swimming pool at Energize Health Club. Savour award winning breakfast both mornings for all the family plus children under 12 years can dine for free (main course with every adults main course purchased). Head out on an adventure armed with a complimentary family packed lunch for all the grumbling tummies to enjoy al fresco whilst you explore the hot spots on a day of choice. Younger guests will enjoy a welcome amenity in their room on arrival including a colouring pack. Families will also enjoy a late checkout (2pm) so the kids can have a final splash about before heading home. The family room package from: €159 per night for 2 adults and 2 children under 12 years of age STAY FREE for a two-night experience.

Limerick Strand is an ideal base for those looking to explore the undiscovered treasures of the Shannon and Limerick City including the incredible St. John’s Castle, a mere stroll from the hotel.    With many local attractions offering amazing discounts to hotel guests of the Strand- from kayaking on the Shannon to river cruising in Killaloe to museum and cultural hot spot visits, you will return home refreshed, energized and pleasantly surprised by Limerick and environs.  Limerick is the gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way, but not as congested as Ireland’s other major routes and cities so getting around is easy to navigate and you will definitely discover an isolated beach or two on your travels so you are free to roam mask-free for an hour or two.  After your day exploring, you will return to the safety of the Strand, where you can enjoy the best Limerick has to offer from the warm hospitality that permeates through each team member to the delicious food, locally sourced by Executive Chef, Tom Flavin.

Limerick Strand offers a complimentary range of walking, running and cycling map routes for hotel guests and are happy to provide suggested driving itineraries if guests fancy venturing a little further for a day trip as Limerick is the gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way.


To make a reservation call 061 421800 or 
hello@strandlimerick.ie for more details please visit www.strandlimerick.ie.

Press release


The show must go on! Blas na hÉireann 2020 finalists announced

Show goes on! Blas na hÉireann 2020 finalists announced 

Forty Four producers shortlisted from Co. Cork


 

 

The team at Blas na hÉireann have been working tirelessly since March to ensure that Blas 2020 goes ahead, maintaining their commitment to celebrating the very best in Irish food and drink. Chairperson, Artie Clifford feels that now, more than ever it is essential to shine a spotlight and give that all important clap on the back to the talented producers dotted around the island.

   

Faced with the restrictions around college campuses still being in place and under the watchful eye of the academic director Professor Joe Kerry of UCC, the Blas judging relocated to Dingle in July, ensuring the judging was handled with the same care and attention as always.

 

The finalists shortlisted from Cork across a range of different categories are Baked 4 U, Bandon Vale, Bó Rua Farm, Caherbeg Free Range Pork Ltd., Centra - Inspired by Centra Made in store Salads, Clona Dairy Products Ltd, Coolmore Foods, Fitzgerald’s Butchers, Follain, Fresh Fish Deli, Glenilen Farm, Gloun Cross Dairy, Hanley’s Puddings Ltd, Hodgin’s Sausages, Irish Yogurts, JDS Foods, Joe's Farm Crisps, Keohane Seafoods, Kepak, Kinsale Mead Co., Longueville House Beverages, Macroom Buffalo Cheese Products Ltd., Maher’s Coffee & Co Ltd., Nohoval Drinks Co.Ltd/Stonewell Cider, North Cork Creameries, Ó Crualaoi Feoil Teo,  O`Keeffe`s Bakery, O'Herlihy’s Bacon Ltd., On The Pigs Back (La charcuterie Irlandaise Ltd), Praline Pastry Ltd., Rebel Chilli, Saturday Pizzas, Shellfish Ireland, Silver Pail Dairy, Skeaghanore West Cork farm, Spice O Life Ltd., St Patrick's Distillery Ltd., Susan's Sweet Sensations, Tex-Mex Addict, The English Market, The Good Fish Company, Trace Of Cakes, Velo Coffee Roasters and West Cork Eggs Ltd.

 

Sandra (left) and Meghan from Joe's Farm Crisps.

After the initial first round of judging, the top scoring products from a number of categories went through a second round of tasting, both in Dingle and at satellite venues across the country. In conjunction with UCC these results were studied and the findings showed that the results based on two entirely separate panels returned the exact same rankings.

 

Therefore, these results will be used to determine the winners of Blas na hÉireann 2020 as the difficult decision has been made to cancel the weekend of events in Dingle in October. The annual gathering that takes place each year is an important part of the Blas experience and the team are working hard to move as many events to a virtual format as is possible.

 

Due to the success of the digital Backyard in April, and the fact that the Backyard has become a very important aspect of the Blas weekend, there will be a series of Backyard panels online this year. An exciting and informative programme that reflects the times we are living in and the specific challenges producers and buyers are facing is currently being scheduled.  

The awards will be announced over the course of the day on October 3rd on the Blas website and across social media channels and while the team will miss gathering collectively to cheer on colleagues and friends, they will make up for it by ensuring that #Blas2020 trends all day!