Delicious Duo From The Blaye Countryside By the Gironde Estuary

Fine Red And White Duo From Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 

Château Peybonhomme-les-Tours “Les Cousines” Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux (AOC) 2017, 12.5%, Mary Pawle Wines

Colour of this one hundred per cent Merlot is mid to dark ruby. Raspberry along with plum and black cherry are among the aromas (hint of clove too) and also appear in the mouth. Quite smooth and rounded and a fair bit of acidity too makes this a lively and flexible companion at the table. Soft tannins and a soft finish as well. This easy drinking wine, aromatic and fruity, is Very Highly Recommended. A great match with lamb dishes.

Blaye wines, as if they aren’t deemed good enough, are often forgotten about when discussing Bordeaux. It's all too easy to consign an area to the also-rans with a generalisation. Yet, as Clive Coates said in his Wines of Bordeaux (2004), “Generalisations..can be quickly exploded by samples”. And Les Cousines is both a sample and an excellent example of the very good in this particular area.

Château Peybonhomme-les-Tours “Le Blanc Bonhomme” Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux (AOC) 2018, 13.5%, €24.90 Mary Pawle

I tend to like my Bordeaux whites better if there’s plenty of Semillon in the blend and that is the case here, fifty/fifty with Sauvignon Blanc. The classic Bordeaux white will contain at least 25 percent Sauvignon Blanc, to ensure a certain aromatic freshness. For a richer style, a higher proportion of Semillon is used. Muscadelle is the third possible grape in the blend but many Bordeaux whites do not include it.

Bright straw is the colour of this biodynamic wine. Modest aromatics with delicate floral notes. Nothing shy about the flavours though with a ripe citrus spearheading the rich progress on the palate, excellent mouthfeel too. Persistent fruity finish too, drier towards the finalé. Well made (it has been 40% barrel fermented), well balanced, delicious and Highly Recommended. 

Well done again to Guillaume Hubert and his team here. And, speaking of recommendations, the suggested food pairings are Foie gras ravioli, marinated trout, cooked cheeses.

If you’re among the many Irish that have holidayed in or near Royan, then you’ve probably come across the wines of Blaye on sale in markets and so on on that side of the Gironde estuary. Blaye has a gentle rolling pastoral landscape while neighbouring Bourg  is more hilly.

The vineyard has been biodynamic since 2000, pruning in double guyot, spontaneous winter grassing, tillage in spring. Treatments combining Bordeaux mixture in small quantities with herbal teas such as horsetail and nettle are used.

Amuse Bouche

There is also something between natural and commercial, and that is conventional wine making. Many wonderful wines are made this way, perhaps too controlled to be included in this book, more concerned about being “correct” than working within the parameters of natural, but please understand that not all “other” wines are industrial wines.

from Natural Wine for the People by Alice Feiring (2019). Very Highly Recommended.

Eggs are special at Good Day Deli which is itself rather special!

Eggs are special at Good Day Deli which is itself rather special!

Smoked Beetroot Benny

Lots of good things on the menu at Good Day Deli. Claire and Mak source the very best of organic and sustainable. One of the current highlights is the beetroot from Kilbrack Farm, another the raspberries (you all know about the strawberries) from Bushby’s in Rosscarbery. 

But it was one of the more regular daily items that made my taste buds sit up and take notice the other morning as we tucked in our breakfast (reservation required). The humble eggs. Okay, you might say, an egg is an egg. But please go and treat yourself to the eggs here. Organic of course and a decent size as well. But the flavour and texture take these to a different level entirely. These are up there with the very best*. Just goes to underline that while all organic eggs are free-range, not all free-range eggs are organic**. 

Smoked Salmon Benny

If you are in for breakfast or brunch, then you’ll have multiple opportunities to try the eggs. We had quite a choice last Wednesday and I picked GDD Smoked Beetroot Benny (14.75) and it consisted of Hayley’s Tea Smoked Organic Beetroot, sautéed organic kale, with two of those delicious organic poached eggs, plus Hollandaise on sourdough toast, topped with Hazelnut Dukkah.

Quite a plateful, full of colour and texture and deliciousness. That smoked beetroot had a trace of sweetness about it, the sourdough was perfectly toasted for those of us with teeth in the “veteran” stage while those magnificent eggs benefited from the scattering of Dukkah, all perfectly cooked and presented.

Enjoyed a bottle of the lovely Mealagulla apple juice with that and CL picked the same drink. Her choice was the Good Day Deli Smoked Salmon Benny (15.00). Again, GDD go for the best and that Hederman’s Irish Organic Smoked salmon was joined on the plate by a pair of those eggs, topped with Hollandaise, toasted seeds and leafy greens on sourdough toast. The outstanding salmon was in quite small bite sized pieces - no need to go cutting - and the whole plate was another harmonious offering.

Quite a few choices on the morning menu, actually an all day menu as it is available until 4.00pm. Next time, I’m going for the Island Bay Huevos Rancheros (lightly spiced organic beans topped with two organic fried egg on Blanco Nino corn tacos, with fresh tomato salsa, sour cream and leafy greens. Reckon that would keep me happy for the day!

Clare was happy too as she greeted us at the door: “Great to have people back in the restaurant.” And she was looking forward to seeing even more there at the weekend when their new 4-person gazebos will make their debut.

We are still in these Covid19 days so hands were sanitised at the door and then we were soon seated and the menu is accessible through the QR-code on the tabletop. Contactless payment is taken at the table and then you exit by the other door. All simple enough and plenty of space between the tables.  Clare and Kristin (“Mak) and staff are really on the ball here and we had a very comfortable experience overall. 

By the way, they intend to continue their lovely Kete Kai Box delivery service, especially for those who may not be able to visit in person for whatever reason.

Kete Kai Box, delivered to your door!

• Connolly Eggs - their hens must be on a great and varied diet - are listed among their July suppliers here https://www.gooddaydeli.ie/suppliers

** Check out this Examiner article on organic and free range eggs here https://www.irishexaminer.com/breakingnews/farming/oliver-moore-organic-eggs-better-than-free-range-793639.html

The Quart of Ale± #1. A magic Imperial Stout + Radler. Red. Sour.

A Quart of Ale± #1. A magic Imperial Stout + Radler. Red. Sour. 

Today sees the beginning of a new series on beer. I'll be doing the best I can to cover a broad range but, if I'm missing out on your brewery, just let me know. While the focus will be mainly on Irish craft beers (and ciders), I'll also dip into the best of imports. Today's selection roams over the range, from Lough Gill's stunning Imperial Stout to the fun summer-time Radler by Blacks. Yellow Belly make excellent sours while the Red Ale comes from Wicklow's Wolf brewery.

Lough Gill Dark Majik Imperial Oatmeal Coffee Cream Stout 11.0%, 440ml can, Bradley’s

Well, well, well. This is amazing, especially on the palate. Smooth and packed with chocolate and coffee flavours along with fruit and spice. And it just goes on and on, the finalé every bit as delicious as the initial encounter. It’s black, with an ephemeral coffee coloured head. Coffee in the rich aromas  also but quite a touch of herb and spice also. 

Can this is the dark Irish beer your mother didn’t tell you about? Dark Majik is an Irish beer that could give the high abv Belgians a run for their money. And it is craft brewed in their independent brewery in Sligo. 

Unlike the Belgians, Lough Gill do not suggest food pairings. I was thinking Sticky Toffee Pudding but none on hand when you need it! Instead, I raided the cupboard and found exactly what I was looking for, unsulphured dried apricots that I got from West Cork Olives via Neighbourfood, and they paired very well indeed.

They say: A true beer for royalty. Big bold chocolate coffee aromas, with a multitude of fruit and spices. A bold yet silky smooth texture with flavours ranging from chocolate and coffee to raisins and anise. With a hearty 11% abv this beer is sure to keep you warm from top to toe. 

It does all that but think it may be wasted on royalty. Pour it for the people. And for yourself, of course!

You’ll see the term Imperial used on most high alcohol beers, as is the case here. Imperial stouts, according to Craft Beer for the People, “have a typically high success rate when aged; their flavours become more relaxed and verge into sweeter milk chocolate, dried figs or other fruit, or a deeply roasted coffee.” They could well be talking about this one by James Ward and his Lough Gill team. 

Yellow Belly Castaway Passionfruit Sour 4.2%, 440ml can, Bradley’s

Yellow Belly like their sours, so be prepared!

Cloudy light amber is the colour. Not so much fruit in the aromas; yeast seems to be the main element. Once it reaches the palate though, the face puckers as promised and the Belgian malts, aided by the passionfruit sweetness, begin to calm it all down a bit. Just a little bit! This is after all a sour, and a pretty good one at that. Quite a thirst-quencher!

They say: The perfect sour. Our house Berliner Weisse recipe (soured with our, continuously evolving, barrel stored lactobacillus culture) conditioned on a small tropical islands worth of passionfruit. Expect a lovely fruity aroma, more fruit on the tongue, and even more fruit on the finish all rounded with a gentle acidity from the souring process. Brewed with only the finest Belgian malts and our House Lactobacillus Culture under the careful watch of our Head Brewer, Declan Nixon.

It is a Seasonal Beer – mostly found during the Summer months, but from time to time as a limited release. It is unfiltered and not pasteurised.

So, what is a sour? It is perhaps the style of beer most likely to put someone off with a single sip. But, according to Craft Beer for the People, “they are hugely rewarding for those who can get past the initial shock.” Think of lemons, sauerkraut, pickles and Citrus Pressé (the French non-alcoholic thirst quencher) as that essential first step. “Once you gain a taste for them (sours)…. there’s no going back!”

All the artwork you see across our Tap Badges and Cans features our fictional hero ‘YellowBelly’. He’s the “Dr. Who” of Beer; travelling through time and space to find new recipes, discover ingredients and to fight the bad guys trying to destroy good beer. Our Creative Director, Paul Reck, creates all the artwork and is the mastermind behind our ‘YellowBelly Tales’ Comic Book Series, which can read for free on the site.

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Black’s Brewery Ready Up! Radler 3.8%, 440 can, Bradley’s 

So many of you will want to know what is a Radler? It is German for “cyclist") and the style has a long history in German-speaking regions. It commonly consists of a 50:50 mixture of beer and sparkling lemonade. Here the lemonade is replaced by pink grapefruit soda; I’m not too sure about the 50:50 though!

Radler is quite similar to our shandy. Its origin in Germany goes back about 100 years when a long bicycle trail from Munich ended up at a tavern in the woods. On one exceptionally busy day, the landlord was afraid he wouldn’t have enough beer so he “stretched” his stock by blending it with lemon soda and found he had a hit on his hands!

Black’s Radler is bright amber, lots of bubbles rising up to the rapidly thinning white head. The grapefruit introduces itself in the aromas.  The beer is light and crisp on the palate, and also reminds me of the many juicy sweets (Quenchers? Opal Fruits?) I enjoyed years ago. Quite a lip-smacking dry finish from this handy summer-time thirst quencher.

They say: Just in time for summer, this traditional German style is a refreshing blend of lager and pink grapefruit soda. Crisp, light and fruity with a lower abv for those long summer days at home.

Wicklow Wolf “Wildfire” Hoppy Red Ale 4.6%,  440ml can, O'Briens Wine

Dark amber’s the colour here, with an off white head doesn’t last too long. Malty and coffee in the aromas. More malty in the mouth, with the “tasty” hop blend of Sorachi and Sabro also getting in their say, a rather mild one to be honest.

Touted as a modern red ale, I’m quite pleased with it and would love to to try it in a direct joust with other reds like Roaring Ruby (from West Cork Brewing), Kinnegar’s Devil’s Backbone, Copper Coast (from Dungarvan Brewing), White Gypsy’s Ruby Red, Sunburnt Irish (8 Degrees), Costello’s Red Ale and more (including the newish Velvet Red by the Cotton Ball). Could be a long session. And I’d need food as well!

Taste of the Week. Coolea Irish Farmhouse Cheese

Taste of the Week

Coolea Irish Farmhouse Cheese

In 1979, Helena Willems, longing for the cheese she'd known at home in Holland as she couldn't find anything like it here at their new home in Ireland, took out a little pot and began experimenting in the kitchen.

Encouraged, she took it a bit further and now Coolea cheese is a big name and much of the output is sold at the famous Neal's Yard in London while in Ireland Sheridan’s are the major customer.

The cheese was to be called Milleens after the local townland but that was knocked on the head as the Steeles, further west on the Beara peninsula and living in a townland of the same name, had just started making a cheese called Milleens. And so the Coolea brand was born.

It is firm and smooth, a pressed uncooked Gouda style cheese. Early on the flavours are caramel, nutty and floral but they become more robust as time goes on, sweeter if anything and still carrying traces of its delicate youth. A gorgeous cheese and well worth watching out for. Very suitable for cooking and indeed is ideal for melting

I am enjoying a wedge of Coolea at the moment. This is matured, is sweeter than in its young mild and creamy phase, and it is Taste of the Week. Was part of my order to Margo Ann in the English Market's Roughty Foodie and delivered to the door with a lot of other great Irish produce.

Secrets of Burren Brewery and the wild yeast that led to "Euphoria", with more on beers, wines and spirits in Cheers #11

The secrets of brewing - Burren Brewery

Peter in a still from the video

How Peter Curtin gathered the wild yeast that led to the amazing "Euphoria"

Check out the video here

More on beers, wines and spirits in Cheers #11

 Blacks of Kinsale may be filling casks of whiskey these days

but have just announced a new beer!

taste! Light and refreshing with Mango, Pineapple and Grapefruit Perfect for the summer, whenever it arrives! Details on the whiskey and the beer here.

Drink Pink. That's The Summertime Message from O'Briens WinE

By Lynne Coyle MW | O'Briens Wine Director says Rosé is most definitely the hottest wine trend this summer. Rain, hail or shine its popularity knows no bounds. Whether still or sparkling, with or without food, of the palest pink or a darker hue, rosé wine is making itself known at every wine drinking occasion.

Almost all red grapes can be made into a rosé wine, the grapes used are usually the traditional grapes grown in the region of origin. The styles are varied and the wines versatility and pinkness only adds to their charm; get drinking pink this summer with a selection of our press recommended rosés. Read more here.

O'Hara's Launch New Tropical IPA
Introducing our latest beer to Ireland - Tropical IPA - A 7.2% IPA bursting with tropical flavours of tangerine, papaya, citrus and mango. More info on their Facebook page

Waterford Distillery Bring Forward New Single Farm Origins.

After the rather unexpected success of our first commercial bottlings, which sold out within a matter of hours in major retailers across Europe, we have brought forward four new whisky bottlings to meet demand. Will be available from specialist retailers from the end of July 2020 onwards. Website: https://waterfordwhisky.com/

In flight above the Langhe with brunch in a winery. Barolo from above!

I'll be staycationing this year but here's one that just might tempt me away......

In Balloon organizes turistic hot air balloon flights, one of the most unique, original and emotionals ways to live a trip experience. We leave from the artistic Commune of Barolo surrounded by the suggestive Langhe, World Heritage Site protected by UNESCO.

More details here

Two Winners from Wines Direct Mystery Case!

Two Winners from Wines Direct Mystery Case!

Treated myself to a 12-bottle Mystery Case from Wines Direct a couple of months back and it worked out very well indeed. The two below are each highly recommended. No big surprise I suppose that the Carmenere went down well but delighted that the German Pinot Blanc exceeded expectations.

Korta Gran Reserva Carmenere Lontue Valley Chile 2017, 14%,  Wines Direct

Colour’s a deep ruby. Big fruity nose. Soft and easy-drinking, good balance of fruit and acidity, hints of the oak, still a little tannic grip, but an excellent mouthful and soft and persistent finish as well. Highly Recommended. Pair with Pork and Poultry, Hearty Roots, Game, Beef and Lamb.

Winemaker is Irene Paiva: “When I started making wine, there were very few women working in the business.” Nowadays, some 35% of the oenologists and enology students in Chile are women. Today Irene is often listed as one of the most influential business leaders in Chile. And she is also a founding member of MOVI (an association of independent winemakers, usually artisans and working on a small scale).

Carmenere? Is that a Chilean grape? You may well ask. The answer is yes, now. But it did start in Bordeaux and was more or less lost in the tangled vines of history, even mistaken for Merlot for one long period and, indeed, it was as late as 1994 that this “Merlot” was properly re-identified as Carmenere. It is very much at home in Chile, enjoying the high levels of sunshine and the warm summer, as you can see and taste with this bottle..

You don’t hear of the Lontue Valley that often. It is a region of the Curico Valley, about 200km south of Santiago and, according to Santa Rita, “some of Chile’s best white grapes are grown here”. Some good red ones too, it appears!

Bender Weissburgunder Mosel 2018, 13%, €18.25 Wines Direct

Light gold colour, lots of little bubbles clinging to the glass. Pleasantly aromatic (not assertively so), blossom and white fruit. Silky smooth on the palate, beautiful high acidity to match the assertive fruit as it washes across the surprised taste buds. Very engaging indeed and Highly Recommended.

This Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) is produced from 30-year-old vines harvested on steep slopes with slate soils. It is partly barrique aged. Importers Wines Direct recommend pairing with: Spicy Food, Pork and Poultry, Light Fish and Shellfish, Fresh Greens. Serve at 9-10 degrees.

Have you ever tried an English Pinot Blanc? Me neither but there are apparently good examples in Kent and Sussex. While the grape is well connected (Pinot Noir among its close relatives), it is “one of the wine world’s genuine Cinderellas”, according to Grapes & Wines. But they do appreciate it in the Alsace and Germany. And it is, with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, one of the constituent grapes of Italy’s Franciacorta, an excellent sparkling wine from Lombardy.

“With my wines, I want to appeal not only to connoisseurs, but above all to young and urban audiences.” Reckon with wines of this quality, he’ll draw some of the older drinkers as well!

Imperial Hotel Launches ‘Thyme at Seventy Six on the Mall’

The Imperial Hotel, Cork, announces launch of a brand-new Brasserie…

‘Thyme at Seventy Six on the Mall’

Bastien Peyraud, General Manager at The Imperial Hotel 

Regional producers, charity partnerships, and a sustainable approach

During the closure for the COVID-19 lockdown, the hard-working team at The Imperial Hotel, Cork, were busy putting the final preparations in place for the opening of a stylish new brasserie at the hotel: Thyme at Seventy Six on The Mall, which is officially now open.

With the introduction of excellent cocktails using high-quality Irish liquor from Killahora Orchards, ornate bird cages inspired by The English Market, and quirky desserts by the famous duo Ber and Becky, The Imperial’s offering has evolved into something modern, dynamic, and fun.

The emphasis is on regional, seasonal, and sustainable, and is in line with the hotel’s recent ‘Because We Care’ programme, which was launched as a response to COVID-19. Sourcing from their neighbours is important, not only to support the local economy, but also to minimize their carbon footprint, and the impact on the environment.

Charity donations have been built into Thyme’s menu, with a €1 donation on a selection of menu items. Each time these items are ordered, a donation will be made to The Cork Simon Community and The Irish Guide Dogs.

Executive Head Chef, Jerome Joyce, is working with a vast array of suppliers from County Cork and Cork’s famous English Market, which is located a mere 400m from the hotel’s front door. Ballycotton Seafood, Tom Durcan meats, and the world-renowned Fingal Ferguson’s Gubbeen Smokehouse, to name but a few.

The new menus feature Ballycotton Seafood Platters, Irish Gigas Oysters, and The English Market’s Fish of the Day, as well as some delicious cuts of local Hereford Ribeye on the Bone, the classic fillet, and Farrell’s of Midleton Lamb Cutlets. Desserts include a wonderfully light selection of Café Gourmand, and decadent treats like Hazelnut and Chocolate Cookie Fries, Pornstar Martini Cake, and Kinder Bueno Éclairs.

Bastien Peyraud, General Manager at The Imperial Hotel says: “We are so passionate about supporting our local economy here at The Imperial Hotel and Thyme was designed with that as the main focus. Supporting our local farmers and producers, and donating to our local charities, is at the forefront of what we want to achieve. We want to do business in a way that makes us really proud. We also want to create a really fun experience for our guests so we will also have live music every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings.

We are so excited to unveil ‘Thyme’ to our guests and we look forward to welcoming you back to the Grande Dame of Cork”

Thyme at Seventy Six on the Mall is now open for reservations Monday to Sunday from 5pm til late. For reservations call 021- 4274040. www.imperialhotelcork.ie

press release

All Calm and Comfortable in Cornstore "Comeback". And Well Fed Too.

All Calm and Comfortable in Cornstore "Comeback"

And Well Fed Too. 

Up and running at The Cornstore

You almost pass the hand sanitiser station on the way in. You almost reach out a hand to shake that of a staff member friend you haven’t seen in a while. This new normal takes a bit of getting used to -  just a little bit. At least that’s the way it was last Thursday as Cork’s Cornstore made a pitch-perfect return after the long days of the lockdown. 

The restaurant's crew, even behind their face shields, played a blinder, exhibiting a smiling calmness and courtesy all evening as they got it up and running and made us all feel at home. Terrific service, the usual high standard of food and drink, plus very comfortable spacing between customers, had us all relaxed in no time, not that we were in any way apprehensive as we walked into the splendid Cornmarket Street venue. 

We had booked and were soon shown to our table. Of course, we also had a look around, at least in our immediate vicinity. There was a table to our left and that looked about the right distance away - I wasn’t doing any measurements, no interest in 1.9m or 2.1m. The one to our right was much closer but there was a more than adequate glass or plexiglass panel between us. 

The middle row of tables in that section has been removed. All the available tables were soon filled, a lovely buzz of conversation gradually built up as we were ordering from a pretty comprehensive new menu. There was a time limit on the table but never once was there a sense of being rushed, quite the comfortable contrary actually.

While it was our first night out since early March, we weren’t about to go all out as we still had a private engagement later on. And so we decided to share the starter. The Spicy Chicken Wings is  a tradition here and we could see why as we got our hands good and sticky with the superb celery and blue cheese dip that came with the tasty wings (11.50). 

Starters range from Goats Cheese Crostini to Prawns Pil Pil and include Duck Liver Parfait, Burrata, Classic Mussels, and Fillet Beef Carpaccio. No shortage of choice. And that choice continues through the mains which feature their renowned steaks plus a daily fish board and much more. 

I was looking hard at the Classic Fillet Beef Stroganoff before switching attention to the steak, all sourced from local suppliers and all their steak cuts have been dry-aged with Himalayan salt. My choice was the 8 ounce Fillet (€21.00), a perfectly delicious piece of meat and perfectly cooked to order. No less than six sauces available and I went, for a change, with the Field Mushroom and Jameson Whiskey one, a gem.

Exterior of the Cornstore (from last February)

CL was tempted by the Oven Roast salmon before settling for the Confit Duck Leg. She got quite a plateful as the leg came with sautéed baby potatoes, chorizo, pak choi, red onion marmalade and hoisin sauce. You could see the kitchen made quite an effort with this one and she enjoyed one of the best duck confit dishes we’ve come across in a long while. They offer quite a list of sides here, everything from Proper Chips to Blackened Cauliflower Mornay to Grilled Asparagus (from 4.00 to 5.50).

And do take a look at the Pizza section. We got a tip on this but a little too late on this occasion. Maybe next time. And the pizza will come in handy too during the late weekend nights when the Cornstore hosts The Night Lounge (from 10.30pm). They range in price from 15 to 19 euro. 

We did see, from a nearby table, that they are massive. Here’s two descriptions, just to give you an idea. The Farm (16.00): Goats cheese, poached baby pears, roast peppers, toasted pecan nuts and whiskey maple syrup. The Ploughman (18): Pulled Pork, Parma ham, olive oil, mozzarella cheese, with fried pickles and Dijonnaise sauce!

Cornstore Cocktails have always been excellent and they list a few on the main menu including the Irish Penicillin (Jameson, Connemara, craft diner liquor, honey and fresh lime juice). 

No shortage of red and white wines, plus sparkling  of course. We two settled for the beer though, thanks to our server who came up with a couple of bottles of the excellent Kinsale Pale Ale from Blacks Brewery in Kinsale. I love to support local and there’s no hardship in this case as the KPA is really top notch.

And, speaking of top notch, well done again to Mike and his team in the Cornstore on a seamless superb return to action in the kitchen, the bar and front of house. Thanks for looking after us all so well in what was a very pleasing and comfortable experience all round. A bientôt!

The Cornstore Cork