Thursday, June 18, 2020

Very Good Wines From The Badlands

Superb Wines From Spain's Badlands

Badlands? In Spain? You may well ask. The Bardenas Reales is a semi-desert natural region, or badlands, of some 42,000 hectares in southeast Navarre (Spain). The soils are made up of clay, chalk and sandstone and have been eroded by water and wind, creating surprising shapes, canyons, plateaus, tabular structures and isolated hills. Here there is extremely arid soil where the vines are grown organically. And this is where you’ll find Azul y Garanza.

Azul y Garanza  “Naturaleze Salvaje” Navarra (DO) 2017, 13%, €21.85 Mary Pawle


The Intro: a limited edition, single vineyard, organic, low intervention, unfiltered red wine made from 100% Garnacha in the northern Spanish province of Navarra. “Naturally wild”.

The Lowdown: Mid to dark ruby. Red fruit, berry and cherry, in the attractive aromas, strongly fruity on the palate and a touch of sweet spice.  A fresh and sufficient acidity ensures harmony through to the satisfying dry finish. 

The Conclusion: Another well-made wine from the enterprising outfit that is Azul y Garanza, a terrific example of the Garnacha, and Very Highly Recommended.

The Background: The Garnacha vines have an average age of 40 years and grow at an altitude of 550 meters. They add: "The wine spends 6 months in amphora and 6 months in used 300 L barrels. Fertilizer: No Treatments: Sulphur (minimum dose). Eminently drinkable especially with lighter meat dishes, rich seafood, warm salads."

Tip for opening the bottle: the cork is sealed with wax. Don’t worry. Get out your waiter’s helper type corkscrew. Many easy-pull type corkscrews just can’t handle the wax. Simply angle your corkscrew into the top of the wax. Next, slowly twist the auger in, as you gradually bring your corkscrew to an upright position. Proceed as normal and the circle of wax on top will come away with the cork. This is fine at home but openings in a restaurant may require a little more finesse!

Desierto de Azul y Garanza Navarra (DO) 2007, 14%, €39.00 Mary Pawle

“Desierto is an exclusive wine made solely by the grapes from our Desierto (desert) vineyard.”

The purity of the nearby desert gives the vineyard an advantageous pathway to produce this bio wine without too much trouble. Perhaps the biggest human intervention is its 15 months in French oak.

Intense cherry colour with some lightening on the rim. Aromas are of ripe dark fruit, some savoury notes, and also smoky notes. Flavours deep and long-lasting, amazing concentration, fleshy, with a persistent finish. A singular wine from a pretty unique location and Very Highly Recommended.

There was a little bit of sediment in the 2007! Didn’t note that though when I enjoyed the 2012 a few months earlier. But no bother in any case.

DISCOVER KILLARNEY’S SECRET TRAILS WITH CAHERNANE HOUSE HOTEL

Cahernane's Cellar Bar

press release


DISCOVER KILLARNEY’S SECRET TRAILS WITH CAHERNANE HOUSE HOTEL

-CAHERNANE  TO REOPEN 2nd JULY-



The 4-star, Cahernane House Hotel in Killarney, Co. Kerry has launched several new luxurious packages which embrace the great outdoors this summer. With its mature gardens and surroundings, elegant drawing rooms and stunning interiors, this country house hotel is a real life, Irish ‘Downton Abbey’.

Set on the edge of Killarney National Park and lakes, the historic country house enjoys a tranquil, secluded location yet is just a twenty-minute stroll into Killarney town itself.

Built in 1877, the property has been sympathetically remodeled by the current owners, PREM Group who have spent over €7.8 million on an ambitious renewal programme. There are 12 bedrooms in the original Manor House, 28 in the Garden Wing and the former Coach House, once home to the horses and carriages of the Herbert family who built the house is now the setting for 8 new luxurious bedrooms. Inside the Manor House there is a grand dining room and drawing room, a light filled atrium, library and the quirky, Cellar Bar which serves delicious food. Original antiques, paintings and stunning chandeliers set the tone for classic country elegance and guests will find numerous peaceful rooms to escape to with a book and retreat from the busy world.

The Coach House is a completely separate building to the main Manor House and is available for exclusive hire for families or friends. This beautiful old stone cut building has its own separate entrances which allows guest staying here to minimise their interaction with others if they so wish. Several dining options will also allow for social distancing with dining options including The Herbert Restaurant, The Cellar Bar, the Library and Atrium. Al Fresco dining in the extensive gardens and terraces will also be offered and if you want to get out and explore the locality you can ask chef to prepare a picnic to bring with you.

The Killarney Secret Trails package (€379.50 per person sharing) will allow guests the chance to explore some of Killarney’s most beautiful nature trails. Neighbours include the magnificent Muckross Abbey, a 15th century monastery and Muckross House which is the sister property of Cahernane House and was once the residence of Henry Herbert’s brother, the original owner of the house.

Emer Corridan, General Manager of Cahernane House Hotel said, “Traditionally, Killarney is extremely busy all summer with visitors who follow well known tourist trails and who tend to flock to the same places. In these strange times we live in now, we want to offer our guests the chance to explore some lesser known, quieter beauty spots and will provide maps to some secret trails, such as The Blue Pool, Governor’s Rock, Reenadrina and Killegy Woods. We also hope to show people a different part of Killarney and offer our visitors a chance to rediscover this beautiful part of the world.” The Killarney Secret Trails package includes three-nights’ accommodation with breakfast each morning, welcome tea and scones on arrival, a 3-course dinner on two evenings with a pre -dinner glass of Prosecco. A picnic lunch is also included on two days for guests to enjoy while they explore some of Killarney’s lesser known, ‘secret trails’.

For more details or to book the Killarney Secret Trails package see www.cahernane.com or call Cahernane House Hotel on +353 (064) 6631895.

DREAM AWAY AT CONRAD DUBLIN.


DREAM AWAY AT CONRAD DUBLIN


Enjoy a break to the Capital and stay in style at Conrad Dublin

 
The lobby at the Conrad

Conrad Dublin is inviting guests to come and explore the city with friends and family and enjoy a Dream Away experience. The hotel will re-open under strict Covid-19 policies and procedures https://www.hilton.com/en/corporate/cleanstay/

The Dream Away booking experience affords guests the freedom to adjust their travel plans during these uncertain times. With an impressive array of advantages on offer including; Late Check Out/Early Check In (subject to availability), Waived Early Departure Fees, 24HR cancellation policy, No deposit required, Complimentary car parking, 10% off Flexible rates and an additional 10% off for Hilton Honors members (total discount 20%) there’s no better time to book your perfect escape.

“We are so looking forward to welcoming our guests back to Conrad Dublin. Our team have worked hard to ensure a safe and welcoming environment and we are implementing the “Hilton CleanStay” initiative developed globally by Hilton offering a new standard of hotel cleanliness and disinfection to ensure our guests enjoy an even cleaner and safer stay: Hilton CleanStay with Lysol protection. The program has been developed with experts from RB, maker of Lysol and Dettol, brands trusted for safely disinfecting surfaces. In addition, experts from the Infection Prevention and Control team at Mayo Clinic will advise and assist in enhancing Hilton’s cleaning disinfection protocols at all Hilton properties, which includes Conrad Dublin” said Martin Mangan, General Manager

To celebrate the re-opening Conrad Dublin is offering some bespoke experiences including a fabulous Picnic package where guests can experience the beauty of Dublin’s Iveagh Gardens and spend an afternoon grazing with a delicious Conrad Dublin picnic hamper filled with your personally chosen treats and finest champagne. From €190 for two to include luxury picnic.

For the culture vultures, why not book the Literary Tour at Conrad Dublin where you will get to experience the James Joyce’s Dublin Walking Tour and a private Jameson Masters Whiskey tasting on return to the hotel at the Conrad Terrace. From €190 for two to include James Joyce Walking Tour and private Jameson Masters Whiskey Tasting.

Discover the beauty of Dublin City by Horse Drawn Carriage. Immerse yourself in the history of Georgian Dublin on this tailor made tour and enjoy champagne on the Conrad Terrace on your return. From €280 for up to four guests to include horse drawn carriage ride and champagne.

Why not treat the clan and book the new Conrad Family Room? The brand new Conrad Family Room has large interconnecting King and Twin bedrooms affording you the luxury of space as a family. The Conrad Family Room can accommodate up to 2 adults and 2 children and includes all the essential comforts of home, a cosy sanctuary after a busy day seeing the sights. Enjoy a movie on the 48-inch TVs, complimentary Wi-Fi within the comfort of your room. Younger guests will enjoy a welcome amenity in their room on arrival. For our smallest guests, cots are available upon request, as well as a baby bathtub and more including in-room “Baby kit” (upon request) with amenities such as a bottle warmer, baby bathtub and the famous Conrad bear. The interconnecting family room from: €350 per night for 2 adults and 2 children under 12 years of age.

Explore Dublin culture at your leisure, taking in some of the sights and experiences of our iconic fair city. Just a two-minute walk from St Stephen’s Green, the luxury hotel is ideally located in the centre of Dublin’s culturally rich city. With secure on-site parking, an overnight at Conrad Dublin is an easy experience to navigate plus an ideal city base for exploring the city.

To learn more about or connect with Conrad Dublin, please visit www.conraddublin.com, call +353 1 6028900 or follow on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

Press release


Wednesday, June 17, 2020

Irish-Belgian Beers Sessions Rock On. #6

Irish-Belgian Beers Sessions Rock On. #6


Kinnegar White Rabbit Session White IPA, 4.5%, 440ml can 
Citrus leads here and there is little enough evidence of the clove and banana that is prominent in some wheat beers in this mid-gold  cloudy IPA from the innovative Donegal brewery. There’s a generous fluffy white head that lasts a fair bit. 

Big score for the optics and no let-down in the mouth where the malt and hops get together in an impressive juicy fruity amalgam. A lovely balance indeed and an excellent dry lip-smacking finish with a slight bitterness in evidence. Second can appeal for sure and the session is underway!

They say: This is a classic American wheat beer that blends fruity malt with fruity hop flavours and opens them up with a voluminous, puffy white head.

Like most of the new wave of independent Irish brewers, Kinnegar still have a few years to go to their 10th anniversary. Yet there is something so real about the overall character of their Donegal beers that the word authentic (a sense of place, a sense of the genuineness behind the local enterprise) surfaces as you sip. 

 “We don’t filter or pasteurise, and we let our industrious little friends, the yeast, carbonate the beer naturally during fermentation.” There may be a bit of sediment, so pour carefully but if some ends up in the glass, don’t worry about it.


The White Hag “Ninth Wave” New World Pale Ale 5.4%, 330ml can. 


Like their Donegal counterparts, Sligo’s White Hag have also turned towards the Atlantic for this New World Pale Ale, named after the (mythical) Ninth Wave that formed a formidable barrier for anyone wishing to cross over to New York and Boston.

Colour is a bright amber, no shortage of bubbles rising through the mildly clouded glass, topped with a short-lived white head. Aromatics are mild also, apricot, mango and citrus in there. 

Quite a greeting on the palate though, creamy feel and insistently fruity from the American hops but all is kept in check as this balanced effort makes its way towards a very satisfactory finalé indeed.  Lively, flavourful and very drinkable indeed. Another for that second glass designation!

They say: “We are a modern independent craft brewery from Sligo, on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. We brew innovative and groundbreaking beers, inspired by ancient and classic styles.” 
They brew a good lot of them! The able and masterly brewers here ensure a lot of them are good.


8 Degrees “Glen of Imaal” Oatmeal Pale Ale 5.6%, 440ml can
The Irish Munro Series 2020

No secret that the crew of Mitchelstown’s Eight Degrees are an outdoor lot. So no surprise that they choose to celebrate Ireland’s highest mountains - Irish Munros are peaks over 3,000 ft. including their local Galtymore - with their latest series of specials. And #2 in their adventures at altitude is Lugnaquilla, yet the beer is named for the Glen of Imaal, the valley below the Wicklow peak.

Colour is a pretty clear amber with a white head that stays around for a spell. Aromas are shy (if exotic) but it’s a different story in the mouth where the intense flavours, citrus prominent, are wrapped in silky mouthfeel,  a balanced thirst-quenching drop, as they say themselves, and a fitting reward after a climb up (and down Lugnaquilla) or the steps up to the barbecue. Slainte!

They say: The star of the show is new hop HBC-692, daughter of Sabro, with intense flavours of grapefruit pith and pine resin. The oats provide a silky mouthfeel which, when combined with these aromatic hops and a rounded bitterness, provides a balanced thirst-quenching drop after a rewarding climb up the Wicklow massif.

By the way, Eight Degrees are close to unique among Irish brewers in going to some length to suggest Food Pairings for their beers. The Belgian breweries seem well into this but even they would find it assez difficile to match the culinary expertise of Caroline Hennessy whose suggestions follow. I wonder is the co-author of Slainte preparing for a revised edition! (I think I’ve dropped that rock down the well before; there was no splash then!)

“The fruity notes in this would play very nicely with a blue cheese like Cashel Blue. Even better, put a slice of that cheese on a burger and see how Glen of Imaal Oatmeal Pale Ale works with a juicy burger: the fruity hops have enough bitterness to balance out all the blue / meaty umami flavours. Spiced mushroom tacos are a great match, the tropical notes in the beer complementing the flavours in Mexican food. Bring a citrus cake – lemon and buttermilk cake or orange polenta loaf – to the table and see how the flavours work beautifully together.”

Technical notes:
Style: Oatmeal Pale Ale
Malt: Irish pale ale malt, oats, Carapils and wheat. 
Hops:
 Vic Secret, Mandarina Bavaria, Amarillo and HBC-692.
ABV: 5.6%
IBUs: 32
Serving temp: 8 degrees (perhaps a little lower at the summit)

Get social: #GlenofImaalOPA

Bosteels Pauwel Kwak 8.4%, 33cl bottle


This a beer that, once tasted, you cannot ignore. No more than you can ignore a pebble in your shoe. The Kwak though is much more of a pleasure. Belgian beers have considerable clout and sometimes the less worthy among them get a free pass. We had the Kwak’s companion, the Tripel Karmeliet  here recently - and this one, just like the Karmeliet, is worth the admission.

It is a “Heavy Special Amber” and dark amber is the colour, the coffee coloured head is less than full but is inclined to hang around a fair bit before thinning to a lacy disc. Aromas are of the warm earth, some coffee notes in the background. It has an amazing palate, complex, malty, toasty, caramel, yeasty and warm. More or less seamless from there to the finish. Unmissable!

In common with all Bosteels beers, it is brewed with natural basic ingredients: barley malts, mineral water, wheat, hops and white candy sugar.
In the 18th century there was a very well-known brewer in the Dendermonde area; his name was Pauwel Kwak. He brewed his own beer, which was dark and heavy.This story inspired a brewer from nearby Buggenhout and since the 1980s the Pauwel Kwak is brewed by Brouwerij Bosteels, which also produces the popular Tripel Karmeliet and the DeuS Brut des Flandres.
They say: This beer is a worthy dining partner and also has its uses in the kitchen. It will make a perfect pairing with, for example, pigeon and pickles. You can have both at the same time thanks to the Kwak’s fine caramel.This complements the zesty taste of the pickles and softens it slightly so it will not overpower the pigeon.

Limerick Strand Hotel Set to Re-Open July 3rd

press release
TAKE ME TO THE RIVER!

Limerick Strand Hotel Set to Re-Open July 3rd 2020

Re-opening on Friday July 3rd, Limerick Strand Hotel is inviting guests to come and explore the city and environs this summer.
Beautifully perched overlooking the majestic River Shannon, blessed with superb facilities, warm and attentive staff plus a multi-award winning Chef, 4* Limerick Strand is the perfect place for an escape to the city or an ideal base for exploring the incredible surrounds of the Wild Atlantic Way .  
“We have been busy over the past few months working hard to feed our community including meal drops to Front Line Staff and rolling out our “call & collect “ food offering.  However, nothing beats welcoming guests back into the safe embrace of the Limerick Strand, where we have implemented procedures to ensure the well-being of both staff and customers” said Stephen O’ Connor, General Manager.
To celebrate the re-opening they have some incredible offers available to book online with discounts including 10% off a 2 night stay, 15 % off 3 nights and 20% off 4 nights and with room rates starting from €155 per room per night, you can enjoy a few days exploring the city and region, re-connecting with friends and family and making new memories along the way.  Family rooms are available from €185 per night (sleeps 2 adults and 2 kids under 12 yrs).  Last year the hotel unveiled a new look for their contemporary bedrooms, suites and corridors refurbishing all and up-grading facilities. 
Hotel guests can easily explore Limerick city on foot or hire a bike and take advantage of the green spaces along the Shannon river bank or go further a field and explore the beautiful wooden trails and parks which include Curraghchase Forest Park, Ballyhoura Mountain Trails & Cratloe Woods. For the energetic, why not grab a kayak and see Limerick from the water with Limerick City Kayak Tours. Limerick Strand offers a complimentary range of walking, running and cycling map routes for hotel guests and are happy to provide suggested driving itineraries if guests fancy venturing a little further for a day trip as Limerick is the gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way.  Also, they are at hand to organise a round of golf at nearby Rathbane and Castletroy golf courses, should you fancy hitting the greens. 
The city is packed with historic places of interest, activities, cultural hot spots and great food stops including the famous Milk Market.   However, the city won’t be ‘packed’ so you will feel comfortable strolling and exploring this summer. Even better, why not order one of Executive Chef Tom Flavin's bespoke Limerick produce inspired Picnic Baskets to go? Using the best of local supplier produce, Tom has created a selection of freshly cut sandwiches, the Strand’s award winning scones and a miniature Dessert selection all washed down with a bottle of Attyflin Estate Apple Juice. Priced at €20 per person and €12.50 per child it is a keenly priced treat.

To make a reservation call 061 421800 or 
hello@strandlimerick.ie for more details please visit www.strandlimerick.ie.
IMAGES: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zzjg0kalnssdvk1/AAAIPkszdvYDFfrNNlEr9huPa?dl=0

Powerscourt Hotel Resort Spa announces its re-opening

press release
Powerscourt Hotel Resort Spa announces its re-opening
Goatsbridge Trout starter at Powerscourt Hotel

5* Powerscourt Hotel Resort & Spa is thrilled to announce that it will re-open its doors on Thursday, July 2nd under strict Covid-19 policies click here for details.
Located just 30 minutes from Dublin city centre, Powerscourt offers the most stunning vistas of “The Garden of Ireland” with scenic river walks, quaint villages and luxurious surroundings to explore at leisure. With acres of "free to roam" walking trails surrounded by Wicklow’s wonderful landscapes and wilderness, more top class golf courses than you can shake a putter at, miles of nearby golden beaches and a choice of dining and entertainment options second to none, there are few places elsewhere on this earth that can offer the visitor such a wonderful choice within such an intimate, hospitable and secure location. 
We are working hard to ensure the safety of both our staff and customers and are so fortunate to have incredible surroundings and facilities matched with attentive and loyal staff who are dedicated to delivering the best personable experience possible during these very challenging times” said Peter Borralnan, General Manager.  
ESPA at Powerscourt is set to re-open after July 20th; full details on services and offers will be advised in the coming weeks as they work closely with ESPA to develop a basis for reopening safely for both customers and ESPA team. A reopening date will be advised as soon as is practical.  The hotel gym and pool will be open between 7am - 8pm daily and will follow strict guideline procedures to ensure the wellbeing of both staff and hotel guests. 
Taking inspiration from its amazing surroundings and facilities, Powerscourt Hotel Resort Spa have put together some great re-opening offers to appeal to guests looking for a luxurious stay with freedom to roam and explore without having to travel far beyond the Estate and environs.  Mid-week offers available from €287 per deluxe room per night to include breakfast. 
With families exhausted from educating and entertaining their children at home, it is now time to plan some time-out.  With this in mind, Powerscourt have a fantastic break on offer FROM JULY 20th which includes an overnight stay in a family room sleeping 4 (2 adults and 2 kids under 12) enjoying a family breakfast in the newly refurbished Sika Restaurant, overlooking the Sugar Loaf Mountain plus an array of fun-filled activities and amenities including scheduled splash-time in the swimming pool, colouring maps, and mini bathrobes for the VIK (very important kids).  At bedtime, children will be treated to a delicious amenity specially created by the talented pastry team.   In addition to the fantastic resort experience, the stay also includes complimentary admission to Cool Planet experience located beside Powerscourt House & Gardens, 5 minutes’ walk from the hotel, offering an interactive and educational experience for the whole family to discover how they can help save the Earth. On an evening of choice, the grown-ups will enjoy a delicious dinner at Sika Restaurant.   The overnight experience to include breakfast daily, Cool Planet entry, dinner on one evening for the adults and scheduled activities and amenities available from €400 per night.

Powerscourt Hotel Resort Spa has lots to offer children and adults including complimentary bicycles so you are free to explore the Estate: pedal along the river walk trail, and pay a visit to Powerscourt Waterfall, ideal for timeless family photos. The indoor 20m Swarovski crystal-lit swimming pool is also yours to use, with family access times available, fully equipped gym (Guests will be asked to self-regulate social distancing on gym equipment and while the facility will be regularly cleaned and sanitised, guests will be required to disinfect gym equipment before and after use) and above all the wonderful array of outdoor pursuits on the doorstep.   If it is an adventure break you are looking for, the hotel can organise mountain climbs, escorted walks or more strenuous activities including abseiling and mountain biking.  

For those looking for an active break, Powerscourt Hotel Resort Spa has an exciting GOLFING package available incorporating Powerscourt Golf Club, boasting two championship golf courses and guests can avail of this wonderful 36-hole championship-standard golf complex, set in with the vast grounds of the estate. This stunning golf centre consists of two fantastic courses, the East Course and the West Course and was named the winner of the Best Parkland Venue by The Golfers' Guide to Ireland 2014.   Stay & play packages are available to book online including a two night package with dinner in Sika Restaurant on one night, two rounds of golf and breakfast each morning from €425 per person sharing. 
Golf can also be arranged at Powerscourt Golf Club and Enniskerry is packed with interesting things to do and see. The town itself is brimming with great restaurants, fabulous shops and old-town atmosphere. 

Tuesday, June 16, 2020

How Australia's Supportive Winemakers Aided Chardonnay Shine. Eventually.

How Australia's Supportive Winemakers Aided Chardonnay Shine. Eventually.
Shaw and Hill Smith (who said it would hard to beat an actual tasting to illustrate the difference between Chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills and that from Tasmania)

The day after Wine Australia hosted a webinar on the 2020 harvest, that very subject came up yesterday in the latest Zoom masterclass, organised by Liberty Wines. Two Australians, Michael Hill Smith (co-owner Shaw+Smith) and chief winemaker Adam Wadewitz, were telling us about Chardonnay and the differences between the Adelaide Hills (where their main vineyard is) and Tasmania where they now own the Tolpuddle Vineyard.

Adam, in Tolpuddle
So how did 2020 go? 
Adam said it was challenging but he had an amazing team “up for it”. “Frost early, rain at the long time, poor flowering and then the fires in December, fear of smoke taint”. Those fires came quite close but helped by the wind and advice from Australia Wine Research, the vineyard got through. While the yield was down, “the fruit was pristine, great flavour and acidity. We don’t have huge amounts in the winery but the wines are spectacular!”

Shaw + Smith, for thirty years, have had two vineyards in the Adelaide Hills, at Balhannah and Lenswood, totalling 55 hectares. The vineyards are planted to varieties that perform particularly well in the region, namely Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz. Now a third, at Piccadilly, is being planted.

In introducing Michael and Adam, Liberty Wines MD David Gleave said it was exciting how Chardonnay had moved from being big and oaky over the last 15 years. “Now there’s a huge diversity with regional characteristics.”

Michael put the development down to movement in many areas of winemaking but especially to a change of philosophy of winemakers away from the big rich oaky wines to something much more subtle and refined.

Adam admitted to being obsessed with Chardonnay. “We have learned along the way, moved the varietal to cooler regions, to cooler sites in those regions… more exposure to international examples has led to an evolution in style and so too has farming the right grapes (including Chardonnay) in the right places.”

Quite a few Australian areas now make a balanced Chardonnay (Margaret River, Yarra Valley, Mornington among them) with acidity part of the mix. Michael: “The fruit is still there but the winemaking is supportive, quiet.”

Michael continued: “Chardonnay has always been part of our story here in the Adelaide Hills but our first wine, in 1990, got away from us. Secretly we were a bit disappointed but five weeks later it was awarded White Wine of the Year!”

Adam: “Chardonnay had an amazing connection with the place, purity, acidity, and it was possible to refine it over the years. The new generation want wines to speak of place. We pick earlier to protect the acidity. I agree there has been real change, not only at Shaw+Smith.”

Is there a definitive Adelaide Hills Chardonnay character? Michael: “I think of a slight ripe nectarine. Not skinny but with mid-palate intensity, weight and length and acidity and that lovely stone fruit character, whereas Margaret River has more pear.”

Shaw+Smith are in conversion to organic. Adam is happy: “More bio-diversity, more healthy fruit, ferment is better.”
Cooler in Tasmania

“We use oak but don’t want to see it in the final wine, hard to explain that to accountants”, Adam joked. “We use it for oxygen, tannin, not flavour. Barrel size is a big thing. We used larger at Adelaide Hills but Tasmania is so good, small barrels are more suitable.”

Their move into Tasmania was not quite in character, according to Michael. “We are not easily distracted; we tend to focus on what works well and Adelaide Hills was successful. I’d heard wonderful things about Tasmania but had never heard of Tolpuddle until our visit. I loved the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and three weeks later we owned it with no real idea of how to manage it!”

When Adam visited, he was struck by the extraordinary acidity (like Mosel or Chablis, according to Michael), the extraordinary intensity of flavour. “It is an exciting vineyard,” said Adam. “Great to work in Adelaide Hills and Tasmania, totally different regions and great to apply our understanding that the vines and the winemaking need a different approach.”

An example of layering, with the "mother" centre,
the" baby" to the right
While the Tassie vines were well planted by professionals, the spacing could have been better. They got around that by the method of Layering. That doubled the number of vines which in turn allowed them manage each vine to produce half of the previous yield, so less stress on the individual plant.

With Tasmania on the agenda, it was inevitable that someone would ask about sparkling wines for which the island is so well known. Michael, a big Champagne fan, said sparkling is 60% of the island’s production and that he really rates them. “We know how to make sparkling and Tolpuddle can do it with the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. We know how to do it but I’m not convinced that we will.” And one got the impression that both men would tend towards making top notch still wines. Michael said Tasmania is an emerging place, “exciting stuff coming out” of there, even though it is just 1% of total Australian production.

The final questioner asked if an appellation system would help in promoting Australian wine.
Michael: “We do have very strong laws on defining regions and they are well policed. Don’t think Australians will be told what to plant where. Wine Australia does well with the current regime.”


Taste of the Week. Skeaghanore Smoked Chicken Crown

Taste of the Week
Skeaghanore Smoked Chicken Crown

Regular readers here will know I'm a big fan of tSkeaghanore duck, especially the Duck Leg Confit and the Duck Breast.

But they also do chicken in Skeaghanore and I've given their Smoked Chicken Crown a couple of runs recently and there'll be more for this stunning Taste of the Week.

Another superb flavourful product from the Hickeys whose farm is close to Ballydehob.

You can find their offerings in quite a few places now - check the website below - but I got my latest batch (chicken and duck) - from Bradley's in North Main Street, Cork.

Skeaghanore West Cork Farm
Skeaghanore East
Ballydehob
Co. Cork
Tel:  (028) 37428