An Irish and Belgian Beer Quartet play a pretty tune on a Friday evening.

An Irish and Belgian Beer Quartet

play a pretty tune on a Friday evening.
#1

The monks (Trappists, not Thelonius) in hot form, once you serve it at 12-14 degrees.

Elbow Lane “Jawbone” Pale Ale 5%, 500 ml bottle and on draught in the Market Lane group of restaurants.

The glass fills up with a cloudy amber. Jawbone is the name but this Pale Ale from the Cork city-centre micro-brewery has quite a bit of backbone and harmony reigns between the malts and the hops. Very well made ale and terrific with food, especially if you get it on draught in the five Cork restaurants owned by the Market Lane group.

They say: A strong English style Pale Ale brewed with Maris Otter Ale malt which imparts a rich malt flavour and balanced with the hop varieties Pilgrim and Fuggles.

All the Elbow Lane beers are named after lanes in Cork City. Jawbone Alley (now Ballymacthomas Street) was/is located off Glen Ryan Road close to Blarney Street. They also produce an Ale (Wisdom), a Stout (Angel) and a Lager (Elbow).

Hopfully Brewing’s “Graciosa” Tropical IPA 5.3%, 300 and 400ml can

They say: Brewed in Waterford by Metalman for Hopfully. The label warns: drink fresh, do not age! It is unfiltered and unpasteurised. Indiscreetly charming and full of character. 

Dublin based Hopfully match art with the beer and the colourful cartoon on the can is by Albert Terre.

Bet you’d like to know about the beer now…

Colour is close to a Citron Pressé, cloudy. Citrus and more exotic notes too in the aromas. The beer has been dry-hopped with Citra and Chinook. Overall, a very pleasant and a satisfying hoppy mouthful, full of flavour and refreshing. Thumbs up for the lip-smacking beer. Maybe not so much for the hype. Indiscreetly charming? Is that like, kiss and tell?

Orval Trappist Ale 6.2% ABV, 0.33l bottle

Served this at the unusually high recommended temperature of between 12 and 14 degrees.

Dark amber/orange is the colour, hazy in the chalice with quite a foamy and long-lasting head. Aromas are complex, yeast and hops plus orange notes and herb-y hints also. Complex too on the palate but all’s in harmony as the fruity and hoppy elements smoothly amalgamate, a creamy feel in the mouth, sip it slowly and savour the complexity before the long and dry finish reaches a slightly bitter finalé. This amazing beer has been quite a while in the making, so take your time and contemplate its many pleasant qualities. Not too many like this around!

The Brasserie d'Orval, located inside the Abbey, was created in 1931 to finance the huge construction site for the reconstruction of Orval. From the start, it hired labor, including the first master brewer, Pappenheimer, who created the manufacturing recipe.

Pappenheimer, originally from Bavaria, adopted the English method of raw hopping to give it a variety of aromas while maintaining its level of bitterness.

The Guardian Angel, with it is a superb view of the still functioning Abbey, is a quiet and welcoming place where time seems to have stood still. This tranquility is shared by visitors who come with family or friends to taste the two flagship products of Orval: cheese and Trappist beer. The cheese story started long before the beer. 

The website by the way is well worth looking up and includes recipes made with the beer or designed to be eaten with it, like this Fish Soup. Various recipes, using the beer, on the site, including this for the Fish Soup; https://www.orval.be/fr/page/507-recette-de-cuisine-a-l-orval . A fascinating story.

Mescan “Westport Extra” No 67 9.3%, 330ml bottle

Mescan may not have had an abbey but he was St Patrick’s right hand man and personal brewer so may well have brewed up a potion that forced the snakes to hightail it out of Ireland. The new Mescan beers are more likely to keep people here!

This Belgian style beer is extra in many respects, the label tells us: extra malt, hops and time to condition. So extra had to come into the name of this Strong Golden Ale and do give it the extra care it deserves. All Mescan beers are bottle conditioned and note too that the recommended serving temperature is a cold 3 - 6 C.

Gold is the colour, as you might expect, but a bit hazy, like Croagh Patrick on a misty morning with the sun coming through. The extra malt pumps up the alcohol, warming yes but there is no burn here, all’s in balance. 

Carbonation is high too and you notice that immediately on the palate along with concentrated fruit and yeast, a touch of caramel also. Wave after wave of flavour all the way to the finish. Belgian style and Irish finesse earn a Formidable! See photo for food pairing.

The brewery is situated on the slopes of Croagh Patrick and is owned and operated by Bart Adons and Cillian Ó Móráin, two Westport vets (veterinarians, not veterans!), who have been friends and colleagues for nearly 20 years. The pair spent four years perfecting their original recipes inspired by the beers of Belgium, Bart's homeland, before starting to brew commercially in 2013.

All the beers above were bought in Bradley's, North Main Street, Cork.

Their Belgian Selection box (12 bottles) costs €45.00.

Their Irish Selection box (14 bottles/cans) costs €65.00. 

More details here.

Wine Maestro Aurelio Montes Takes It To The Limit One More Time

Wine Maestro Aurelio Montes

 Takes It To The Limit One More Time

Down here, you don't pay tax on the part of the building that stands in the water!

Aurelio Montes, noted as one of the pioneers of top class Chilean wine, is taking it to the limit one more time. “If you don’t go to the limit, you won’t know what you can achieve,” he told us on last Tuesday’s Liberty Wine organised masterclass. Thanks to the magic of Zoom, Aurelio (wearing beret and poncho) was talking to us from a cool southern Chile on his way to the Chiloé Archipelago to check on his latest vineyard, this one on an island.

“I have known Aurelio for 7 or 8 years,” said Liberty MD David Gleave as he introduced him. “Known of him for much longer. He is always looking out for new areas, always pushing the barriers. It gives his wines an extra dimension. He is still full of energy and enthusiasm and a man of great knowledge.” 

Before

Aurelio said he was always seeking quality through innovation, never afraid to employ new technology. “Happy we have achieved so much. I enjoy too much what I do.” And then he took us through his Chilean vineyards. (He also has an international presence).

He has had an eye for a good location from his university days. As a 21 year old he visited a place (150km south of Santiago) and began to dream of making vine in Apalta. “Time went on,..” before, years later, with his partners, “we bought a bit of land”. “We planted the vineyard and were totally correct. The quality was amazing. Then we started planting on the hillsides and the neighbours thought we were crazy. Year by year though it was good - for Syrah, Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon and more. Then we started getting noticed.” And Montes began to grow - they have no less than three pages of wines in the Liberty catalogue.

After

“I’m a moving kind of guy.. never stay still.. just can’t stay in one place. Why not move to the coastline?” And so they did, to Marchigüe. “Just 6km to the coast, more gentle slopes, a rolling landscape and the temperature of course is more coastal. .. mainly reds but a little Chardonnay, Viognier. Results here were even more encouraging, wines with character and personality, really fantastic. We are now trying Touriga Nacional, Tannat, more. We were the first ones there and it’s been an amazing experience. A beautiful place. I take a look every week and I never get tired of it.”

And the coast was the draw again for his next move, to Zapallar “an expensive summer resort, in the Aconcagua Valley”. They were by the sea but there was a lack of water, a worldwide problem due to climate change, he said. “So thinking of the future, we started a programme of dry farming, we built a reservoir and we have two deep wells and deliberately keep the yields low. Results are great, fantastic concentration, great expression and personality plus acidity. It’s been a wonderful challenge, a big vineyard and we are always exploring”. And they’ve had success with Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

“It is totally coastal influenced. In morning there’s mist and fog and then a shy sunshine from mid day. The vines grow happy. The grapes ripen slowly.” And you can find these coastal beauties in the Outer Limits range, also imported by Liberty. Aurelio was sipping the Pinot (possible best in Chile) as he spoke.

As he said, they are always exploring. He is delighted with the “little bit of Syrah, looking fantastic, a lighter coastal wine, lot of character and freshness.” And David Gleave endorsed that opinion.

The reservoir

“We are fearless,” continued Aurelio. “We don’t stop always trying things.” Albarino is next on the list. He related how he was in Spain about 3 years back and “fell in love” with Albarino and “is moving some here as Zapallar is like Rias Baixas”.

Coastal viticulture has been good to Aurelio and so the next logical step for this regular yachtsman was to set up on an island and he found it in Chiloé, 1200km south of Santiago. “You have to go to the limits to discover how far you can go! It is beyond the viticultural limits.”

You’ll often hear of the cooling influence of the Humboldt current off the Chilean coast. Fortunately, for Aurelio, the current doesn’t get in around the Chiloé Archipelago and so the temperature on the islands is a few degrees higher than you might expect! Otherwise it would probably be too cold for the vines.

“The soil is volcanic, one metre deep, fertility not that big. There are 120 inhabitants, 10 kids in school and there is a culture of fishing. We decided to plant seven varieties.” That was in 2016. No harvest yet but 2021 will tell what the Mechuque vineyard (which runs down to the sea) is capable of. Knowing Aurelio’s record, you wouldn’t be betting against him!

Where next for Aurelio?

* All pics are screenshots from the masterclass.

Previous masterclasses in this current series:

The Day The Vines Died in Alto Piemonte with Luca de Marchi
Matt Thompson's Blank Canvas in Marlborough

Portuguese Grape Varieties with Antonio Braga

A masterclass from Tuscany by wine-maker Paolo De Marchi

Rebooting Armenia's Ancient Winemaking with Zoric Gharabian

Barolo 2016 with Franco Massolino and Giuseppe Vajra

Biodynamic Californian Winemaker Ted Lemon of Littorai

Charles Heidsieck is "freshened up" by Cyril Brun

Cellar Master Émilien Boutillat Details Climate Change Challenges.

New James Whelan Butchers Hampers available online

New James Whelan Butchers Hampers available online

Continuing the trend of responding to customers' needs, James Whelan Butchers have developed two new food hampers, that are available to order exclusively online through their National Delivery Service .

These hampers were designed with meat connoisseurs in mind, as well as families who would like to simply shop online or for those who would like to give the gift of great food. 

The Family Collection is a selection of James Whelan Butchers most popular family favourites including, a wide selection of free range Chicken, Rib Eye Roast, Striploin Steaks, Burgers with both Diced and Round Steak Minced.

The Artisan Collection consists of a specially selected for the meat connoisseur including Salt Aged Rib Eye Steaks, a selection of free range Chicken, Rib Eye Roast, Fillet Steaks and Pork Steaks. 

The hampers cost €120 each including delivery and are available to order exclusively on www.jameswhelanbutchers.com 

press release

Taste of the Week. Hungry Crow Amazeballs

Taste of the Week

Hungry Crow Amazeballs

Niamh O’Reilly of Hungry Crow has quite a range of tempting chocolates. They are absent just one ingredient: guilt! Their ‘Free from’ policy helped them win the 2016 Listowel Food Fair ‘Best Emerging Artisan Food Product’.

And their Free From raw and vegan treats taste every bit as good as they look. Niamh makes her own nut butter and fruit is a very important ingredient.  Hungry Crow produce has no refined sugars, grains or dairy.

Their chocolates now have an extra outlet on NeighbourFood and the Amazeballs are our Taste of the Month. The original are Salted Caramel and here’s the story: "These are amazeballs, Auntie Niamh," declared the maker's 6 year old niece when she bit into one for the first time. They have only 4 ingredients - chocolate, dates, sea salt, vanilla.

And the Freshly Squeezed Amazeballs are just as tasty. Here, Niamh combined dates soaked in freshly squeezed organic orange juice and zest with 85% cacao Colombian chocolate and created another set of irresistible Amazeballs. 

Hungry Crow 

15 Beechwood

Clonakilty

Co. Cork

Mobile: 087 950 4868

Cheers. Latest Episode.

Cheers. Latest Episode #1
Keeping You Up To Date With Wine, Beers, and Spirits

Rioja and Haro's Old Railway Station. New Wines and Old 

Spanish winemakers have often been criticized for failing to join forces to promote their regions, but perhaps last week’s tasting at Haro’s Barrio de la Estación, an event abut which Yolanda Ortiz de Arri has reported extensively in SWL, may serve to change a few things. Beyond the uniqueness of this hundred-year-old distinguished neighbourhood founded around a railway station, we saw strength through unity in the tastings we attended. The diversity of styles ranged form unique, long-aged reds to modern and even exotic wines. Read more from this excellent article here.

The Buyer
Now New Yorkers are hardly renowned for their quiet and unassuming manner. You can normally hear one coming from a block or two away. But its winemakers, up until very recently, have been particularly shy compared to their counterparts on the West Coast. At least when it comes to exports and finding their way on to premium restaurant wine lists in key cities around the world.  That’s all about to change as New York State has become one of the most coveted regions in the US for aspiring winemakers who are in search of unique soils and a cool climate to make wine.The next step is telling buyers outside the US about the wines they are missing out on, which is what the latest The Buyer’s debate with key importers was all about. Here is the first part of a two part report on a tasting and debate held with leading distributors and merchants just prior to the lockdown.

Wines Direct Ireland have an organic case to make!

White wine from Priorat is not the norm but Mas d'en Gil vineyard Grenache and Viognier are grown at one of the highest points with a constant regulating breeze from the Mediterranean. The result is a beautiful mineral palate with a Mediterranean herb finish. See more here


Wine Australia

Vintage wrapping up in Australia

It has been a cool summer and autumn by Australian standards and that combined with the dry weather is leading to reports of an extraordinary season in terms of quality.

Although not yet complete, it is clear that vintage 2020 is delivering exceptional quality fruit although yields are down. Some regions have finished vintage, whilst others are still wrapping up. You can read more in these reports for Margaret River, McLaren Vale and Coonawarra.

We will be collating information from the regions and we hope to publish our 2020 vintage report online in July. 

Wine Searcher

Clean Power of Pisa Trumps Chianti

But where/what is Terre di Pisa?

"As you can tell from the name, it's near the town of Pisa, which is famous for its leaning tower, in Tuscany. It's just north of the Bolgheri appellation, which is known for its Bordeaux grape varieties, and in fact there is plenty of Cabernet and Merlot in Terre di Pisa, along with plenty of Sangiovese, because it's Tuscany. The Chianti Classico DOC is not far away, just on the other side of Florence."

Read more here.

Chateau Feely Virtual Wine Experience

Are you wondering how to celebrate a key event with family and friends? Let us organise a Virtual Wine Experience Celebration for you and your guests. We ship small wine packs to all members of your party and organise a celebratory virtual wine tasting event together. More details on this and other wine experiences here.

The Buyer

Why regionality is next step for New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc 

Last week, in the first in a series of webinars, New Zealand Winegrowers asked if consumers and the trade can ‘get past the gooseberry’ to talk about Sauvignon Blanc as a wine in its own right. Jane Skilton MW joined three master sommeliers John Szabo, David Keck and Ronan Sayburn, to debate the issue in a debate that was attended by 500 participants worldwide, including Peter Ranscombe...Read More

Waterford Whisky

The old proverb of “March, in like a lion, out like a lamb” is fitting to describe the weather conditions during the sowing window for spring malting barley in 2020. Wet and cold weather in the first fifteen days of March prevented any ploughing, cultivation or sowing from taking place in the fields. However, no rainfall events in Leinster after St. Patricks Day, combined with higher than average levels sunshine and cold winds, enabled sowing to commence from March 22nd. First out of the blocks to sow this spring for Waterford were growers Barry Ashmore and John Tynan. No rainfall for the remaining nine days in March enabled tremendous progress to be made and all the conventional barley fields for the distillery to be sown by April 1st. This is, by far, the most condensed sowing period relative to the five previous seasons. 

Read more here 

Impressive Whites from the Languedoc and Bergerac. Fruity, French and Fabulous.

Well-known in Bergerac!

Impressive Whites from

 the Languedoc and Bergerac

Château Petit Roubié Picpoul de Pinet, AC Coteaux du Languedoc 2018, 12.5%, €14.10 Mary Pawle

Picpoul de Pinet is becoming a star wine, according to Grapes and Wines (2015). 

Picpoul is the grape name and it is found in the Languedoc and the best of it seems to be from the village of Pinet, on the edge of the Med and about 90 minutes east of Carcassonne. It is a very old grape variety and the name means lip—stinger (after its high acidity).

It has a pale gold colour. Aromatic for sure - citrus, melon and floral. Rounded and abundant fruit flavour (apple, lime, grapefruit), generous mouthfeel (close to creamy), a perky acidity and a decent finish. Highly Recommended and Very Highly Recommended with seafood. Serve at 8 degrees seems to be the official line but mine is one or two below that!

Importer Mary Pawle introduces this 2018 as a dry white, with a green-gold hue. Crisp and apple-y. “Often referred to as the Muscadet of the South, it is excellent with oysters and most shellfish.”

Château Petit Roubié has been practising organic farming since 1985. Floriane and Olivier Azan have owned the estate since 1981 and have developed, thanks to a judicious choice of winemaking, a very attractive range indeed. 

Their lands are in a historic area; if you visit, you can still see vestiges of the Via Domitia (the Roman road) in their scrubland. And those Roman engineers were building on top of an even older “road”. The wine, I’ve read, is presented in a Neptune bottle though that, as far as I know, has nothing to do with the Roman god of the sea.

Terroir Feely “Sincérité” Vin de France 2018, 13.5%, €22.20 Mary Pawle

You find out much about this 100% Sauvignon Blanc, in shorthand, on the label: Zesty fruit. Memories of the sea. Sincerity of nature. Hand-harvested. Indigenous yeast. Unfined. Vegan friendly. Organic. Biodynamic. Demeter.

In the glass, it has quite a light straw yellow. Gooseberry and citrus feature in the aromas. Lively and zesty attack, amazing flavours (more or less tracking the aromas) from then right through to the long finish, flavours are not at all extreme though, and with matching acidity, all’s in harmony here. A delicious refreshing wine, with minerality, perhaps from the limestone soil, and Highly Recommended!

Chateau Feely is in Saussignac (well-known for its sweet wines) in the Bergerac region but its wines are labelled ‘Terroir Feely’ because most Feely organic, biodynamic and natural wines are bottled under the ‘Vin de France’ label and in France, Feely tell us the word ‘Chateau’ is reserved for AOC wines.  “Since vintage 2014 our wines fit the natural wine standard defined by SAINS a French natural wine association”.

Why is it called Sincérité? “A pure Sauvignon Blanc originally named ‘sincere’ as a play on words with Sancerre due to the minerality and the pure Sauvignon Blanc character. It is a wine that is direct and acidic with a purity and freshness that is like sincerity.”

Serve at 7°-8°C with Fish and seafood, Fresh goat cheese and Salads.

Could you drink this glass of wine? I didn't. How I Failed the Chinon test.

Could you drink this glass of wine? I didn't.
Didn't do the Chinon test*.
Domaine de Beauséjour Chinon (AOC) 2012, 13% 

Rabelais presides over the threshing in Chinon

I didn’t quite make the cut for membership when I visited the Caves Painctes of Chinon, the headquarters of the Confrerie de Bons Entonneurs Rabelaisiens, situated in a network of subterranean tunnels running beneath the chateau. You have to drink a glass of wine. What’s the problem? You may well ask. The problem is the glass takes a whole bottle and you must finish it without a pause! 

Quote from Rabelais

The town of Chinon, in the Loire Valley, is a terrific visit, especially if you go late August/ early September. We visited a few years back and the highlight was a day-long vintage fair with an old fashioned threshing. Thirsty work and, for a short spell, we withdrew from the streets to Caves Painctes.

The Chinon appellation lies, mostly, in the “vee” where the Vienne River (on whose bank Chinon stands) joins the Loire on its way west. Cabernet Franc is very much the red grape here, no rivals. The grape is also well known for its key part in Bordeaux blends.

Though Chinon Cabernet Franc can last longer, the general advice to to drink it at five years. Perhaps its best days are behind this one? That was the doubt in my mind as I started with this bottle (bought in Karwig's before the closedown) while simultaneously starting to view a film called The Help, the story of three “extraordinary” women, one white, who together question the “values” of 1960 Mississippi society in a dangerous time.

I found the “high society" accents, combined with the white attitudes (black maids, the help, couldn’t even use the same toilets as the family), hard to take. It wasn’t all racial, the rich pampered women were just as nasty towards a “white trash” woman who was hoping for acceptance into their snobby circle. At that early stage, the wine was on the quiet side for me. Happily, both the film, as the main characters began to shine (and my ear got used to the accents), and the wine improved as the evening wore on.

Chinon. Chateau is top left

Colour of this 2012 100% Cab Franc is a mid ruby. Aromas hint of harmony between fruity and floral, red fruits such as strawberry and raspberry and violet. Well rounded now, nothing too deep or intense, just a harmonious wine making its pleasant way, with a touch of tannins on the lips, to a harmonious finish. Nice bit of acidity too so should be fine with lightweight food. Not too sure about southern fried chicken though!

Unusual shoulder label on the bottle, a quote from local hero Rabelais: Very crazy who never gets drunk… That’s the Google translation. I think he means you should get drunk at least once in your life. And, since he was a native of these parts, he probably means on a bottle of Chinon. Or a glass!

Another Rabelais quote on the label here.

*  More than likely, you'd need to be invited to become a member.

Amuse Bouche

Atomic Box Lunches!!

Via Pixabay

Even the most ominous force of the age, the atomic bomb, couldn’t darken the mood. When atomic testing began in the Nevada desert in 1951, Vegas turned it into just another tourist attraction: the hotels organised rooftop viewing parties and packed “atomic box lunches” for guests who wanted to make an outing of it. The radiation fears would come later; for now Vegas radiated only glamour, excitement, and good times.

Elvis in Vegas by Richard Zoglin (2019). Highly Recommended.