Screw Cap and Cork. A masterclass from Tuscany by wine-maker Paolo De Marchi

Screw Cap and Cork. A masterclass from Tuscany by wine-maker Paolo De Marchi

Paolo De Marchi

Tuscan wine-maker Paolo De Marchi saw “the other side of the moon” in the early years of this century. He told us how that came about during yesterday's online masterclass.

Paolo, the owner of the superbly tended Isole e Olena vineyards in Tuscany, has a tendency to see what’s hidden - once he dug holes “everywhere” with a back-hoe to see what the roots of his vines were doing down there. So it was no surprise that when Liberty’s David Gleave MW asked him to start using screw cap on some of his wines that Paolo went into the subject in deep detail.

His initial answer though was negative. “I said not ever!”  But, he decided to try. “The DOCG though does not allow screw cap, it was not easy decision. I have to go deeper, to the moon, to imagine the other side. There may be other answers, so I try.”

It worked out well though. From 2005, the Liberty allocation of Cepparello, with screw cap but without the DOCG of course, went off to the UK and then, not over surprisingly, Australia wanted 100% screw cap. And New Zealand followed.

Clare Valley’s Tim Adams attended a 2010 event in Cork’s Blackrock Castle and his bottles that night were all screw cap. Tim and his neighbouring winemakers went for this method of closure in the late 1990s and are very happy with it. “But we are still learning...the process of evaluation is long term... could go on for 20 years”. They are well into that now!

As indeed is Paolo. And Paolo is better placed to speak on the merits of screw cap versus cork as he also bottles the Cepparello under cork for Italy, for Italian restaurants abroad, for long established importers in the UK and also for the USA. “Screw cap is more popular on white wines… every year increasing.”

“Twelve vintages now we have screw cap. Very hard to choose.” But he did indicate that the best wine you’ll ever drink will be from cork, indicated also that screw cap wines are excellent and more consistently so.

“Cork is always a mystery. Screw cap is less of a mystery - just check for physical damage to the closure, maybe a little shock on the cap. But I still prefer the wine from the cork,” and then he smiles, “from a good cork”.

As they age, he maintains both will be beautiful if different. “But that’s a minor problem. When you have a beautiful wine, enjoy it.”

David Gleave agreed. “You’re right, either way there’s diversity (diversity even within cork). Besides, corks are getting better but my personal preference is for screw cap. The tannins evolve a little more slowly. It is more consistent and Cepparello is well suited” Paolo, by the way, also does a superb Chardonnay under screw cap.

The Portuguese cork makers did up their act after the turn of the century shock from down under.  Back in 2013 in L’Atitude 51, Philip Grant of Chateau Bellevue la Foret, Fronton AOC, said he had noted a major improvement in the traditional closure since 2001 “when the Portuguese cork industry reacted to the enormous pressure they was coming under from the emergence of the screw cap as the favourite closure of Australia and other wine producing countries”.

Philip insisted that consistency is guaranteed under screw cap. He had very little to say in favour of the synthetic cork, beyond indicating that it may be useful for wines that are intended for a very limited shelf life and he meant months!

Paolo of course had an opinion. ”I don’t like DIAM - a wannabe cork!” The synthetic Noma though is “more interesting” and he might take a look at that.

Just to finish with a note or two on the Cepparello (first released in 1980). This is a Chianti Classico - it will be on the label if you buy the cork version, won’t be there if you buy screw cap. The grapes are grown on the estate which is right in the heart of Chianti Classico between Florence and Siena. It is a blend of Sangiovese 80%, Canaiolo 15% and Syrah 5%.

Why Syrah? That was a popular question during the Question and Answer session that followed Paolo’s talk. No hesitation from Paolo. “Syrah, because it ripens well, adds colour and spice, and blends very well with Sangiovese.”

Lots of other questions too for Paolo before he could take a break but I didn’t get the tail-end as my connection began to act up. Looking forward to the next masterclass from Liberty Wines and their team!

All pictures above are screenshots from the masterclass.

Two Excellent Wines from Macon and Minervois.

Two Excellent Wines

 from Macon and Minervois.

Bourcier-Martinot Macon (AOC) 2017, 13%, €19.95 O’Briens 

If you like Maconnais, as Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald did, then you’ll have love this. Coming from the northern reaches of the Mâcon, it is an unoaked Chardonnay and is  is new to the shelves at O’Briens.

Pale gold is the colour, clean and bright. Apple and lime and a floral touch too in the aromas. On the palate it is crisp and fresh, an array of citrus and melon flavours, nice bit of acidity also, an almost creamy mouthfeel and a good long finish. I’ve always enjoyed wines from this region, this is no exception and is Very Highly Recommended.

Hemingway was quite a lover of these wines as he disclosed in A Moveable Feast. On a drive up from the south of France with Scott Fitzgerald, they enjoyed a packed lunch which included truffled roast chicken and he reported that Scott was very happy when we "drank the white Maconnais at each of our stops".  Later on that day, "At Mácon I had bought four bottles...which I uncorked as we needed them." No breath-analyser in those roaring twenties.

I’ve read this is an excellent wine to serve with oven roasted scallops in the shell with herb cream. Then again, Hemingway’s pairing with truffled roast chicken sounds very interesting as well.

Money was no problem to Hemingway but many of us would struggle to buy some of the better Chardonnays from Burgundy. The Mâconnais, as illustrated here, offers an excellent introduction at a much lower price point than the Côte de Beaune and so on.

Chateau de Girard “Cuvée Arthur” Minervois (AOC) 2017, 14.5%, €19.95 O’Briens

Dark ruby is the colour of this supple unoaked Minervois from certified sustainably farmed vineyards. It is the classic GSM blend:  Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

 In the intense aromas you’ll find black fruits (plums, cherry). Soft, juicy, fruity, terrific balance and a long finish. This easy-drinking rather elegant wine, with silky tannins, is relatively new to the O’Briens portfolio. Full bodied and lush, immediately loveable, with a persistent finish and a touch of spice, this is Very Highly Recommended. Pair with paté, roasted meats and pasta. Serve at 18 degrees.

Taste of the Week. The Rocketman’s Soup

Taste of the Week

The Rocketman’s Soup

I’m spoiled for choice when it comes to picking a taste of the week these days!

When the local farmers markets closed, I thought it would be the opposite but Neighbour Food came to the rescue, big time!

One of the men behind the fantastic initiative, which sources food from the producers you see at the markets and brings them to a central collecting point, is Jack Crotty better known as The Rocketman.

He has built a reputation for innovative salads over recent years but it is his soup that made my taste buds stand to attention.So get ready to meet our latest Taste of the Week, the Roasted Red Pepper, Tomato And Mint Soup. Who else but the Rocketman would have thought of adding plenty of mint to the mixture. Absolutely delicious!

By the way, NeighbourFood, with an ever increasing number of depots in Ireland, also delivers (thought not in every area).

The Rocket Man HQ, 

No. 38 Princes St, 

Cork City. 

Tel: 086 822 9624

Trading through testing times. The English Market Traders continue to serve the people of Cork

Trading through testing times

The English Market Traders continue to serve the people of Cork 

The English Market has served the people of Cork since 1788 in the face of famine, flood, war and multiple recessions. As many of the English Market tenants continue to trade, it is almost certain that ‘global pandemic’ will soon be added to its list of triumphant battles.

Many of the food entrepreneurs and family businesses within the English Market have stepped up to recent challenges by diversifying and adapting from the traditional approach, to help support their communities, keep supply chains moving and ensure the viable continuity of their businesses. 

The English Market remains open for business in the heart of Cork City Centre as the traders today as in 1788, are as focussed as ever on “Serving the City”.

In addition, many of the innovative English Market Traders have recently introduced home delivery and order and collect services to support their customers who may be cocooning or unable to visit the Market during these times.

There is approximately 30 independent food retailers within the English Market open, providing a full supply of the very best of Irish produce including, freshly caught local fish and seafood, fresh fruit and vegetables, local farm reared meat and poultry, as well as some of Ireland’s best cheese, wine and preserve options - among a host of other foodie delights from both near and far. 

For customers visiting the English Market, there is the added advantage of free parking throughout the city and many social distancing, safety and security measures in place in the Market to keep shoppers and traders safe.

The English Market is open Monday to Saturday, 8am-6pm (although some traders are operating reduced opening hours), for further information please visit www.englishmarketcork.ie. To keep up to date with individual Trader information and regular updates visit @theenglishmarketcork on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.

Please find below the current detailed list of Traders open in the Market - with those offering click and collect or delivery services highlighted.

Company Name	Tenant	Details
Alternate Bread Company	Sheila Fitzpatrick	The Alternative Bread Company was established in 1997 by Sheila Fitzpatrick and sells a large range of handmade bread and baked goods, including a range of 100% organic sourdoughs, traditional Irish soda bread, syrian flatbread and a wide variety of gluten free, wheat free, dairy free and sugar free products. The Alternative Bread Company is open for business, operating during 8am -4pm. Offering a call and collect service and also offering a delivery service for elderly people - To place an order phone the shop on (021) 425 1347.
Ballycotton Seafood Ltd.	Adrian Walsh / Diane	Ballycotton Seafood is a family owned business, established in 1985, Ballycotton Seafood is open business as usual in the market with a full selection of superb fresh fish and seafood available. Also offering free local Cork delivery service (minimum order value €20) to place your order phone 021 4613122. Also offering call and collect service - phone the market stall on 021-4272093.
Best Meats	Paul / John Boyling	This traditional butchers was established in 1976 and now has had three generations of family preparing the “Best Meat” for the people of Cork since opening! Best Meats produces a range of fresh quality beef, lamb, pork and chicken. Their best selling product is their top quality beef. Business as usual. Slight change in hours - now operating 9am-5pm. Offering call and collect service from 021 4270563, pay over the phone available.
Bresnan Meats	Michael Bresnan	Bresnan’s Butchers was established in 1898 and is now a 4th generation butchers offering a high quality range of locally sourced meat. Bresnan’s is the family with the longest unbroken presence in the English Market which ensures a high level of care and custom in its service. Bresnan meats offer the best of home grown farm to fork, beef, lamb and pork from their Market stall business as usual from 9am-6pm Monday to Saturday.
Bubble Brothers	Billy Forrester	Bubble Brothers offer a carefully selected range of affordable, interesting wines and champagnes from around the world, alongside a variety of Cuban cigars.Open for business as usual in the market. Also offering free delivery for all orders of more than €100, to any address nationwide. Visit www.bubblebrothers.ie to place your order.
Café Marius	Sebastian Antoine	Cafe Marius take pride in offering local products, working exclusively with County Cork farmers and traders at the market to promote the importance of shopping local and supporting other traders. They have a selection of cakes, teas and coffees available. Open for takeaway only from their market stall.
Coffee Central	Mary Rose Daly	This family-run stall was established in 2000 and is on its second generation of management. Coffee Central offers a range of organic gourmet coffee and specialty loose leaf teas. Open in the market for takeaway only from Thursday to Saturday, 9am-5pm.
The Chicken Inn	Tim Mulcahy	Tim Mulcahy of The Chicken Inn, a third generation family business that is best known for providing quality and fresh poultry, pork and bacon, has recently launched their “Poultry in Motion” local delivery service offering customers free local Cork home delivery on orders €30 and above . Open For business in the market. To order, send an email to chickfoods.acc@gmail.com with your order, full name, address and telephone number.
Chocolate Stall	Rosemary Daly	The Chocolate Shop opened in 2000 as a specialist chocolate shop: unique in Ireland, it is independent of any manufacturer or franchise and therefore free to source only the best quality chocolate from the best artisan chocolatiers throughout the world. The Chocolate Shop is available for home delivery and click and collect from their website www.chocolate.ie
Coughlan Meats	Paul / Alan Murphy	Coughlan meats are a fifth generation family butchers serving the people of Cork for over half a century. Alan and the team pride themselves on having all locally sourced products. This butchers specialises in providing a range of quality beef, lamb, pork and poultry products. Open business as usual in the market and also offering click and collect service of from www.coughlanmeats.com
Durcans	Tom Durcan	Tom Durcan Meats specialise in sourcing and selling the finest quality local meats from dry aged Irish beef, succulent Irish spring lamb, locally produced fresh Irish pork and the freshest homemade speciality sausages. Tom Durcan Meats are open in the market and also offering order and collect and a free local delivery service. Order online on tomdurcanmeats.ie or phone the shop on 021 427 9141 to place your order. They will even add items from other stalls to your order on request!
Hassetts Bakery	Michael Hassett	Hassetts Bakery offers a wide range of products including artisan breads and confectionery. Open for business and have recently launched an order online service from www.hassettsbakery.com. You can order your freshly baked bread, pastries & confectionery and they will have your order ready for next day collection once ordered before 12.30pm.
Heavens Cakes	Joe Hegarty	Heaven’s Cakes is run by husband and wife team Team Joe & Barbara Hegarty. Both are classically trained chefs specialising in Cakes and Pastries. All produce at Heaven’s Cakes is handmade, using local ingredients wherever possible. Open in the market on Friday and Saturday only from 9.30-6pm.
Hederman's	Frank Hederman & Caroline Workman	Hederman Smoked Salmon is a first generation artisan producer of smoked wild and organic salmon, which they have been producing in Ireland’s only authentic timber smokehouse for nearly forty years. Hedermans is open business as usual in the market, have just launched a new Click and Collect service in addition to their delivery service, available to order from their website www.frankhederman.com.
K O'Connell's	Pat O'Connell	K O’Connell’s was established in 1962 and has been a thriving business since its opening nearly 60 years ago. O’Connell’s pride themselves on their customer service, the freshness of their products and their ability to source exotic fish for their customers. Their best sellers include salmon, cod, hake and prawns. Open for business from the market offering an amazing selection of fresh local seafood. Also offering a newly introduced  home delivery service - to place an order phone 021 427 6380 or email freshfish@eircom.net. Please specify which way you would like your fish prepared and the team will have it ready just the way you like it!
Landons Bacon	Stephen Landon	After farming for generations the Landon family established this stall in the English Market in 1990. They pride themselves on selling only the best and freshest of Irish pork and bacon. All of their products are prepared in house and all produce is locally sourced. Their rashers and bacon are highly acclaimed and are very popular among the people of Cork. Open for business as usual, Offering delivery to elderly vulnerable people during this time - contact Stephen on 086 862 0077 to place your order.
My Goodness	Virginia & Donal O'Gara	My Goodness was established in 2015 by Dónal and Virginia O’Gara. My Goodness is an award-winning ethical health focused business that specialises in vegan, raw, sugar free, gluten free and fermented probiotic products. All ingredients are sourced from local and organic suppliers where possible. My Goodness foods are open business as usual in the market and available for Click and Collect and home delivery through Neighbourfoods.ie .
Noonan's	Kathleen Noonan	This stall was established in 1955 by Kathleen Noonan and is now managed by Pauline Noonan as the second generation to run the family business. Noonan butchers specialises in pork with best sellers including the skirts and kidneys, bodice, crubeens and offal. All produce is sourced from Irish local producers with traditional old fashioned curing. They can do a delivery service - if needed, just to ring her on her mobile. They have their full product range available everyday and new hours during this time are 9.30-4pm.
O'Mahony Family Butchers	Eoin & Katherine O'Mahony	O’ Mahony’s was established in 1974 by Katherine O’Mahony. At this Stall you will find the very best, locally sourced meat such as specialist cuts of dry aged beef, Ballea Farm Lamb, rose veal, buffalo and venison. Open for business Tuesday-Saturday 9am-2.30pm . Offering click and collect from www.omahonysbutchers.com and will drop your order to the boot of your car.
O'Reilly's	Donagh O'Reilly	A O'Reilly is now a third generation family butcher. O'Reilly's continue to serve traditional Tripe and Drisheen to the people of Cork, as they have for the past 100 years. Call ahead to place your order on 021 427 0925 and collect, or one of the team will kindly drop it out to your car.
O'Sullivans Poultry	Glenys Landon	O’Sullivans began the business by rearing free range turkeys and chickens on their own farm in Cork. They moved into trading in the English Market in 1990. You can expect to find a variety of options available from free range chicken to wild Irish game. Open for business as usual in the market.
O'Sullivans	Tim O'Sullivan	Tim O’Sullivan Meats was established in 1939. Now Tim O’Sullivan is the 3rd generation butcher to lead the company and provides quality and fresh meats to local customers. This butcher sells beef, lamb, pork and poultry products and is best known for providing a large range of ready-made stir fry marinated products.
On the pigs back	Isabelle Sheridan	On the Pigs Back was established by 1992 by Isabelle Sheridan, a French native. This stall prides itself on its passion for Farmhouse Cheeses, Homemade Pates & Terrines made from family recipes. On the Pigs Back stock a full range of Irish Farmhouse Cheese as well as daily fresh Arbutus Bread. Open business as usual in the Market and also offer a nationwide delivery service from www.onthepigsback.ie and available to order through neighbourfood.ie.
Pots n Pans	Michael McBarron	Pots N Pans was established in 2004 and sells a range of household, kitchen and crockery supplies. Open business as usual in the market with social distancing practices in place.
Moynihan's Poultry	Noel O'Callaghan	Moynihan’s Poultry provides a variety of fresh Irish poultry products and eggs. The brand is proud to provide all shoppers with locally sourced poultry products which come from 100% approved Bord Bia farms. Moynihan’s poultry range of poultry cuts, eggs and value-added products ensures that each customer has a wide variety of options to choose from. Open for business as usual in the market.
Super Fruit	Michael Corrigan	Superfruit was established in 1969 by Michael Corrigan. This family business sells fresh fruit and vegetables from its popular market stall. This is worth a visit if you are looking for guaranteed farm to fork freshness. Open for business as usual, trading as normal with all welcome.
The Good Food Shop	Marc O'Mahony	The Good Food Shop is a certified organic trader and sells a wonderful selection of top quality fresh, organic fruit and vegetables as well as household staples and a vast range of specialty food items. Open for business as usual, with the normal opening times 9am-6pm. Delivery service available - email or phone in marcomahony@hotmail.com Possibly the only shop in Cork(Potentially Ireland) with yeast available - to bake bread. Fresh yeast and dried yeast delivery on saturday morning.
The Meat Centre	Ken Barrett	The Meat Centre was originally established in 1980 by first generation butcher Ken Barrett. A wide variety of fresh meats are on offer such as beef, lamb, pork and bacon. All produce are of the finest quality and are fully traceable from farm to fork. Open for business as usual in the market.
The Real Olive Company	Jenny Rose & Tobias Simmonds	The Real Olive Company was established in 1993 by Toby Simmonds and was the first olive stall in the country. Starting with just a few barrels of olives and growing now to include about 40 varieties of olives along with an extensive range of other Mediterranean produce, such as fresh pesto, hummus, tapenade and extra virgin olive oil as well as their own dairy -Toons Bridge Dairy. The Real Olive Co. deliver nationwide from their online shop www.therealoliveco.com
The Roughty Foodie	Margo Ann Murphy	The Roughty Foodie is now a third generation family run business. You can expect to find local and fresh real honest ingredients when visiting this market stall - they provide non perishable food gifts, seasonal fruits, local raw honeys, homemade jams and Irish crafts. The Roughty Foodie is open for business as usual and also providing a free local delivery service within the city limits, of their delicious 'Cocooning Food Hamper' filled with local produce for just €70! Call Margo on 087 635 2415 to place your order.
Toonsbridge Dairy	Jenny Rose & Tobias Simmonds	Toonsbridge was established in 2009, when The Real Olive Company recognised a high demand for Mediterranean cheeses that were imported and being sold to accompany their olive selection. Jenny-Rose Clarke of The Real Olive Co. took this as an opportunity to create a range of locally hand-made Mediterranean style cheeses, which has since become an award-winning stand alone brand of its own. Toonsbridge Dairy and The Sandwich Stall are open for business in the market. They are also offering an order and collect service. To place an order, call (021) 4806500 .