O’Mahony's Winning Formula. Local and Seasonal. Small Plates. Big Flavours.

O’Mahony's Winning Formula. 

Local and Seasonal. Small Plates. Big Flavours

O’Mahony’s is making waves in Watergrasshill, even though it is in its early years of it reincarnation. The food offering started a couple of years back as local and seasonal, on small plates mostly, and that is still the formula, backed up by a very helpful, very well informed front of house, lots of chats, loads of smiles, a welcome on the mat and all the way through.

And there is also a huge welcome for local producers and suppliers. Their produce is carefully handled here, expertly cooked and delivered on those (not so) small plates!  It is the same with drinks. The craft beer selection includes Franciscan Well and 8 Degrees on draught, Blacks’ ales in bottle, also the Saor GF from 9 White Deer, and ciders by Stonewell and Longueville House. And don’t worry, mainstream beers are also available.

Stonewell zero

Back to the menu though. You may nibble away on marinated olives for a start. If you prefer something a bit bigger why not consider their boards: Antipasto, Cheese, or Charcuterie. We decided to share the Antipasto, a selection of dips (hummus, tapenade, goats cheese, etc, olives) with bread.

We had the car, so what would we drink? A quick answer was provided in the shape of their non-alcoholic board. It included a red wine, a white wine, even a sparkling one. The Seed-lip gin was available as were the apple based drinks (very nice too) from the local Future Orchards. Also some beers: Baltika, Heineken zero and Erdinger and a zero cider by Stonewell. The latter was my pick - it was my first time trying it. Stonewell always hit a high standard and this did the job very well indeed. CL meanwhile choose the Erdinger, probably the best of the three beers on offer. 

The increasing number of local and seasonal supporters will be delighted to see the small plates list - these are basically your main courses without all the sometimes superfluous extras. You’ll note names like Jack McCarthy, Kilbrack Farm, Gubbeen, Ballyhoura Mushrooms, Carrigcleena Duck, Leamlara Honey, Hegarty’s Cheese and Fitzgerald Butchers. By the way, O’Mahony’s is also the area base for NeighbourFood through which you may also get your hands on some of these lovely products.

Smoked lamb

The menu changes regularly. There were seven choices for us and it took us a while to make up our minds. I think we could have employed the Grand National formula: close the eyes and stick a pin in the list. But we did pick a couple and shared. That is one thing about these “small plates”; they are ideal for groups who order a bunch of them and then share.

I was tempted by the Rockpool: Kilbrack blue potato, gnocchi, foraged sea herbs and poached white soul, and that seemed to be a favourite of Victor (who owns and runs the pub along with Máire). In the end though, I went for the Carrigcleena duck pastilles, Leamlara Honeycomb, coriander yogurt. The duck came in three parcels, packed with flavoursome meat and that was enhanced by the yoghurt and a small square of the honeycomb.

CL also hit the jackpot with the Hot Smoked Fitzgerald’s lamb, braised red cabbage parsnip purée and game chips. The tender meat is served pink and is the main player in a hearty ensemble, every item in the mix playing a part. And we both thoroughly enjoyed the side of excellent hand-cut chips with a punchy pepper sauce.

Now we were looking at the short list of desserts. I was seriously considering the Treacle Tart with Yum Gelato vanilla before taking Victor’s tip - he freely admits to being biased! - which was the Cardamon, Lemon Curd Pannacotta, ginger Manuka honey, jelly and tuile.  Went down every well indeed.

Dessert

By the way, as I didn’t mention it earlier, they have a House drinks list here, all from neighbours. House Gin is Bertha’s Revenge (from Castlelyons) with Poachers Tonic and orange. The local juice, from Glanmire, is supplied by Future Orchards while the local cider comes from Mallow’s Longueville House. And 8 Degrees, up the road in Mitchelstown, are the producers of the House beer.

All the regular wines are available by the glass and you also have a rosé and Prosecco. On the night, the list was supplemented by a specials board that had no less than seven new wines which will soon have a place on the list. So, no shortage. And no shortage either of spirits where again, particularly in gins and whiskeys, they are strong on supporting Irish.

O'Mahony's of Watergrasshill is a family-run country pub and food venue just off the Cork-Dublin motorway (M8);  is only 10 minutes from the Dunkettle Interchange, near Cork City. The pub has been Máire's family for 200 years. Experienced Chef Jim Coleman recently joined the team.

House drinks, from a previous visit. Bertha's Revenge and Eight Degrees

O’Mahony’s 

Main Street

Watergrasshill

Co. Cork

OPENING HOURS

Café bar
11am – 5pm, Wed, Thur & Fri
1pm – 5pm, Sat

Bar kitchen
6pm – 9pm, Fri & Sat
12pm – 4pm-ish &  6pm–8pm, Sun

Bar

6pm – close, Fri – Sun

ENQUIRIES

+353 (0)86 831 6879 omahonysofwgh@gmail.com

Some terrific wines to look out for in the current O'Brien promotion.

As you probably know, the current O'Briens Wine promotion is up and running and will go on until the end of December. Not too sure if the two beauties below will last that long. One is biodynamic, the other is organic, and both are Very Highly Recommended. You'll find four other sale wines covered below as well, along with brief descriptions of what organic and biodynamic, and a few other wines terms, mean, terms that keep popping up on labels these days.

Musella Valpolicella Ripasso (DOC) Superiore 2016, 14%, €20.95 (22.95)

This biodynamic wine from near Verona comes in a mid to dark ruby robe. Superb intense aromas of ripe cherries. And cherry flavours are richly concentrated on the palate, a matching acidity, the mouthfeel soft, the tannins sweet. And there’s a fruity and well balanced finish. Really excellent wine, another Very Highly Recommended for you.

The concentration here is the result of the Ripasso method. Ripasso (re-passed) wines are made by fermenting young wine with the unpressed but drained skins and lees left over from making Amarone and this process can give the  Ripasso a “super-charge”. Read more details about the method here. 

In this case, the winery tells us this is “ripassato” on unpressed skins of Amarone “to earn colour and structure”. The blend here is the usual threesome of Corvina (the main grape), Rondinella, and Barbera and it has spent 12 months barrel ageing (French oak). Suggested pairings are cold meats/pâtés, Duck, Nutroast, Pheasant/Pigeon, Pizza/Pasta, Rib-Eye Steak, Sirloin/Striploin/Rump steak

Musella, as well as turning out rich satisfying ripassos, are also one of the 'Twelve Amarone Families', a group of the very best producers in the region in North East Verona.

By the way, I was just reading there in Vino Italiano that Valpolicella means “valley of many cellars” (vallis polis cellae). The Modern History of Italian Wine debunks that theory though, saying the POL refers to large mounds of sand and gravel left behind after flooding in the local river but goes on to confirm that “this great land of wines has always practiced the characteristic technique of over-ripening and drying the grapes”.

Symington Altano Vinho Tinto Douro (DOC) 2018, 14%, €12.45 (17.45)

Colour of this beautifully balanced organic red wine from the Douro valley in Portugal is a deep garnet. Scents of ripe red fruits are noted. On the palate it is fresh, smoothly intense, a sweet hint of smooth tannins and, with good acidity, is harmonious all the way through to a long finish. Very Highly Recommended and fantastic value at the moment.

This wine is made with 100% organically grown grapes from the family’s vineyards, the family being the Symingtons, a leading winemaking family who have been making Port in the Douro for five generations.

As you know, much the same grapes are used for port as for still red wine. The grape varieties for the Altano are Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional and Tinto Cão. The advice is to serve at 14 to 17 degrees centigrade. It is evidently ready for immediate consumption but “has the potential to continue developing favourably up to 6 years.”

Two excellent wines from South America feature in O'Brien's current promotion.

Dozens and dozens of wines are reduced in the current O'Brien's promotion that runs up to the end of the year. I've picked a few and have a couple of South American beauties below for you. Some of the others are pretty good too and I'll come to those in the next week or so. In the meantime, check out this magnificent Malbec from over 1,300 meters in the Andes foothills - that's higher than Carrauntoohill. The other, a Cinsault, a very pleasant light red, comes from the highly regard Di Martino winery in Chile.

Once upon a time, we bought red and white and maybe rosé. But now you'll see organic, biological, natural, even orange on labels. Can be confusing, I know. O'Brien's have put a handy leaflet together to explain the terms and I'll reproduce parts here from time to time. The first two are below - hope they help!

Casa de Uco El Salvaje Malbec Los Chacayes (IG) 2016, 13.5%, €16.95 (19.95)

Purple is the colour of this organic wine from a high altitude vineyard in the Mendoza region of Argentina. The rich aromas of ripe dark fruit rise to meet you. And on the palate the big flavours (plum, dark cherry and blackberry) are matched by an excellent acidity, a harmony relayed to the decent finish (not overly long). An immediately engaging wine and Very Highly Recommended. Just 2,500 bottles are produced and the wine has been fermented in large concrete eggs.

Los Chacayes is one of four wine areas in Tunuyan in the Uco valley. The vineyard Casa de Uco is located in the valley, tucked against the foothills of the Andes Mountains, and close to Mendoza. El Salvaje (wild) also figures prominently on the label and is the overall name given to a series of organic wines that also includes, among others, a Pinot Noir and a white blend.

This wine is 100% Malbec from certified organic vineyards located at 1300 metres above sea level. This elevation maintains the fresh acidity in the grapes. Unoaked, this is a pure expression of the Uco Valley terroir. 

Enjoy with beef, lamb or char-grilled vegetables. In Argentina, I’m told they pair it with juicy Sirloin of pork, Braised lamb shoulder with roasted parsnips, or Fillet steak with chimichurri. Wine Folly says the perfect Malbec Food Pairing is Black pepper buffalo burgers with blue cheese mushrooms and rosemary infused garlic kale chips. Sounds great to me.

Alberto Antonini, Winemaker Casa de Uco, is enthusiastic: "After 16 years of experience in the Uco Valley, I can affirm that this is the exact area where the best wines of Mendoza are produced. The proximity to the Andes Mountains, the ideal day to night temperature ranges, and the fertile soil with excellent drainage, make this land exceptional to produce high end wines and develop the viticulture and enology in the most natural way possible"

De Martino “Gallardia” Cinsault Itata (DO) 2017, 13%, 14.95 (19.95)

This delightful 100% Cinsault is a light ruby, quite like Pinot Noir. Aromas are rather intense: red fruit (including raspberry) mainly, plus floral elements. Mouthfeel is soft. Smooth and fresh on the palate, the raspberry prominent again, good acidity too, and a pleasing finish as well. Highly Recommended. Maybe Very Highly Recommended if you love these light dry reds as many people do nowadays.

De Martino say this, from their Guarilihue vineyard (22km from the sea), “is a tribute to the coastal vineyards located by the southern region of Chile; it is the cradle of the country’s viticulture, with vines dating back to 1551…. A sustainable agriculture, including dry farming and ploughing with horses are practiced in our vineyards.”

Wines of South America has a very high regard for De Martino and have included some of their wines in Top Ten varietal lists. De Martino winemaker Marcelo Retamal is one of the country’s most accomplished and is known as el doctor.  “He uses no new oak, preferring larger older casks, nd promotes the use of the old ceramic tinjaras, clay amphorae, for fermentation. There are no cultivated yeasts, no filtration, and no intervention.”

Head South For This Smashing Pair,

 One White, One Red.
Or Just Head to O'Brien's!

(Below, you'll find notes on two wine terms that are now current and, also a chance to read over the other four wines picked from O'Brien's November December promotion, a versatile "six-pack" for the holidays.

Domaine Begude “Etoile” Chardonnay Limoux (AOC) 2018, 13.5%, €18.95 (21.95)

Beautiful mid-gold colour. The aromatics are quite complex, regular fruit (such as apple and pear) along with the exotic (mango) in the mix. It is certainly more of the exotic on the rich palate, quite a rounded almost creamy mouthfeel, more complex than most French Chardonnays (not that there is such a thing as a typical Chardonnay as the chameleon grape makes itself at home wherever it finds itself), good acidity too though, so the long finish is harmonious.

This Highly Recommended wine should be fine with salmon and trout, with roast chicken (even roast turkey!). The winery also says it is “heavenly with Comté & other hard cheese”. Worth a try so with Hegarty’s Templegall though I know cheesemaker Jean-Baptise may prefer a Saint-Emilion.

This certified organic wine, full-bodied and smooth, is crafted from Chardonnay grapes high in the cool climate region (hot summer days and cool nights) of Limoux. Fertilised using only natural manures and cultivated with the utmost respect for the environment, this wine is vinified and matured in the very best French oak to bring you “our finest cuvée, Etoile”.

Chateau de Caraguilhes “Prestige” Corbieres (AOP) 2017, 14.5%, €14.95 (18.95)

Colour is a dark red. Intense nose of dark fruits, notes of spice, perhaps a hint of the garrigue, the scrub that thrives around here. I once stayed in a gite in Languedoc owned by a Madam Garrigue. Like the senior citizen Madame, this wine is amazingly smooth (the madame used tidy up the pool in her bikini every evening). Must say that gite was great value for money and I can indeed say the same about this Prestige, fresh, and full of fruit, enhanced by nine months in oak. No pesticides, no herbicides, just excellent value (more so with the current reduction). 

Garrigue, by the way, is a feminine noun. And since I’m on gender, the French language version of the label indicates that Syrah is feminine while Carignan and Mourvedre, the other two in this blend, are masculine!

O’Brien’s tell us that Caraguilhes is completely organic, “this estate was using organic techniques when it was virtually unheard of anywhere else”. The Prestige is their oak-aged Reserve wine and is a seriously stylish wine. 

As regards keeping the wine, the winery advices that while it has potential of 6 or 7 years, it can be drunk today. Decant one hour in advance and serve at around 15 degrees. Food pairings: Provencal lamb (if you don’t have Herbes de Provence, try thyme, sage and rosemary), roast grilled beef with olives, quail in truffle sauce. Enjoy.

Susan’s Award-winning ‘Jewelled Christmas Cake’ Is A Festival Gem

Susan’s Award-winning

 ‘Jewelled Christmas Cake’ Is A Festival Gem

Great excitement for Susan Robbins Fehilly when her Christmas cake was declared the overall winner at the recent Irish Quality Food & Drink Awards. I could say it was the icing on the cake but there’s no icing on this champion, just a crown of preserved fruits and nuts. 

The “Jewelled Christmas Cake” is indeed a winner as I found out when I sampled it last weekend. I spoke to Susan who recalled the night of triumph: “What a fantastic night it was at the Irish Quality Food Awards 2019! Winning not only the Christmas cakes and pudding category, but also the overall Christmas Q award. Of course, not forgetting our Chocolate and Raspberry cake which won the Good Choice cakes and biscuit category!”  Wildberry is a regular award winner but this was something special.

And that cake is something special. Once I got it home, a small slice was extracted and I sat down in anticipation with an Americano at hand. It is absolutely delicious. The fruit cake itself is superb, wonderful textures and flavours and the fruit and nuts from the crown add an extra individual flavour as you take a nibble from the top of your slice every now and then. Easy to see why the judges went for this one, Wildberry’s first attempt at the Christmas Cake market.

The Wildberry bakery is located in the village of Ballineen, West Cork. It has both a Gluten Free & a Floury unit. Their complete focus is on taste and quality. All cakes are handmade to taste perfection using only the best ingredients. For instance, Clonakilty free range eggs and Bandon butter are used in the Christmas cake, no preservatives, no additives. Susan’s ethos is to create great flavours and textures, particularly in her Gluten Free Range. Her influences are French but her passion is for Irish ingredients and the excellence of Irish food.

It also looks stunning, with that necklace of preserved fruits and nuts on top instead of traditional icing. And a little tip. All you need here is a small slice, such is the concentration of flavour. It’s a bit like sipping a very fine wine as against a run of the mill bottle -  a little goes on long way. At an rrp of €15 for an 800g cake, this would be a welcome gift in any home, especially your own!

It is available in in the following Dunnes stores, at the ABC Bread concessions: Cornelscourt, Rathmines, Naas, Bishopscourt [ Bandon Rd ] Cork, Jetland [ Limerick].

The 800g [€15] and the 1600g [ €25] are also available at ABC in the English Market.

Food At Crawford Gallery Café. Well Sourced. Well Executed. Well Worth A Call.

Food At Crawford Gallery Café

Well Sourced. Well Executed. Well Worth A Call.

We are in high-ceilinged high-windowed room in the heart of the city, surrounded by art works on the walls. Indeed we are in the heart of the Cork’s best known art gallery. But don’t worry, this is an informal room, a very pleasant one, and the food you get here, in the Crawford Gallery Cafe (founded 1986) is not at all formal, not really art on a plate but the tasty culmination of artisan craft from the farm to the kitchen to your plate, neat and tidy and a superb lunch or brunch. 

And then there’s the counter ahead, more or less weighed down with so many good things, pastries and cakes to savour slowly with a well made tea or coffee. Quite a few other drinks available too, including a glass of well chosen wine.

Pancake

Everything is well-chosen here. Let them tell you about their leaves: “… our salads are so flavourful thanks to the natural farming methods of the growers at Horizon Farm in Kinsale. Colum and Liz O'Regan carefully work their beautiful farm and its soil, which is enriched by the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean, to produce leaves of unique and exceptional flavour. The food we serve you just wouldn't be the same without the talent and dedication of these local producers.”

This day (27th November 2019), we are here for lunch. Nothing Christmassy on the menu as yet, thankfully! The splendid old fireplace though is getting its seasonal makeover and camera phones are clicking as we study the menu.

Pears & Blue Cheese

There are some terrific choices here ranging from Soup of the Day to a Steak and Chips. And the choice is enhanced by the fact that you may have smaller or bigger portions of a few dishes including Devilled Kidneys on Sourdough.

I’m seriously thinking about those kidneys but instead go for the Pear and Cashel Blue Cheese Bruschetta, also available in small or large. I’m a big fan of Cashel Blue but I have to say, the Conference pears that the Crawford served with it were also outstanding, thinly sliced, crisp and juicy with a melting consistency and the typical subtle sweet flavor. An amazing combination with the cheese and the sourdough and those Horizon Farm leaves of course. Not art but quite a masterpiece.

Our other main dish was The Crawford Spinach and Mushroom Pancake, with cucumber pickle, Horizon Farm Leaves and Hollandaise Sauce. Another super plateful, another layer of flavour added by the sauce to the already flavoursome creamy package inside the pancake. Delicious.

“Coffee?”, we asked one another. Why not? “Dessert?” One to share. You could close your eyes and stick a pin and still come up trumps on that counter. But we didn’t leave it to chance and our pick was the Plum and Pistachio Cake, a generous slice with cream. Sweet finalé. And the coffee was good too.

And then we got a bonus, the chance to sample the gorgeous nougat that Sinead is making here. She uses butter and I must say I loved it, both flavour and texture. Sinead:  "I’ll be making more for Christmas and selling it on the counter here at the cafe. I’ll package some and have some smaller bars on the counter to have with coffee." So there's a tasty tip for you!

Festive Welcome!

• For all of you nice and early with your Christmas shopping, they have the lunch special to get you through the retail mayhem. Les Tartines are their Open Brown Bread sandwiches with Gubbeen Farmhouse Cheese and Pickles, Bresnan’s bacon, relish and cucumber pickle, plus a cup of soup, tea or coffee, anytime between 12 noon and 3.00pm Monday to Saturday.

Crawford Gallery Café 

Crawford Art Gallery

Emmett Place

Cork

Tel: +353 (0)21 427 4415

Email: crawfordgallerycafe@gmail.com

Opening Hours

Monday–Saturday

8.30am – 4pm

Sundays and Bank Holidays

11am – 4pm

Café Christmas Times

Closed 25, 26, 27 December 2019

Closed 1,2 January 2020

Closed 6,7,8,9,10,11,12 January 2020

Chef Bryan McCarthy Plays Mr Sandman to set you Dreaming💤 of a Greenes🎄🎅🎄 Christmas

Chef Bryan McCarthy Plays Mr Sandman

to set you Dreaming💤 of a Greenes🎄🎅🎄 Christmas

Greenes Restaurant, with Executive head chef Bryan McCarthy leading the way, is showcasing a locally-inspired Christmas tasting menu this festive season as an alternative to traditional Christmas dining. 

Not everyday I can get a line-up of so many of my favourite producers in the one menu. But Bryan has waved his magic kitchen wand and Ballinwillin Venison from Mitchelstown, Jack McCarthy’s Black Pudding from Kanturk, Twomey’s Pork from Macroom, Killahora Rare Apple Ice Wine from Glounthaune, and organic winter vegetables from Kilbrack Farm in Doneraile will all appear in starring roles. What a dream line-up. One to look forward to, for sure.

The ethos at Greenes in Cork’s Victorian Quarter celebrates the uniqueness and quality of the outstanding ingredients that are available in Ireland and the team work in tandem with the best Irish food producers year-round to create menus that are devoted to local, seasonal, foraged and organic ingredients.

Bryan said, “Promoting local ingredients is extremely important to us so we wanted to ensure that the fantastic winter produce we get from our suppliers locally were the real stars of our Christmas menus. The inspiration for each dish originated with the ingredient itself, rather than limiting ourselves to the traditional Christmas offering. We have a number of different festive dining options available so there is something for everyone. But all of our menus reflect the same food philosophy which is the celebration of high quality seasonal, local produce.” 

The festive dining experience will be enhanced by views of the iconic waterfall at Greenes, which was named Ireland’s Most Atmospheric Restaurant at this year’s Georgina Campbell Awards. 

The Christmas Tasting Menu (€75) is just one offering from Greenes Restaurant over the Christmas season. Diners can also choose from the Christmas Lunch Menu (€37.50), Christmas Early Bird Menu (€42.50), Christmas Set Menu (€65), as well as À La Carte options. 

Greenes Restaurant is part of a family of connected venues, together with Hotel Isaacs and Cask (Ireland’s most awarded cocktail bar), with beautiful period architecture, adjoining one another on MacCurtain Street in Cork city.

For information on menus and opening hours visit www.greenesrestaurant.com/christmas. Bookings can be made at www.greenesrestaurant.com or by phone at 021 455 2279.

Keep up to date with the latest news by following Greenes on Instagram and Twitter at @GreenesCork and on Facebook at @GreenesRestaurant . 

The Rhone. River of Wine.

The Rhone. River of Wine.

Do you find French wine labels confusing?

The Rhone is one of a few major French rivers, others are the Loire and Dordogne, inextricably linked with wine. The heart of the area is between Vienne to the north, Avignon to the south.  Wines labelled Côtes du Rhône can come from anywhere in the region, from north, south, east and west. Those labelled Côtes du Rhône Villages are in theory better than plain Côtes du Rhône and those with the label entitled to add the village name, eg  Côtes du Rhône Villages Sablet should have an edge over the others, in theory.

Wines bearing the label Vacqueyras, just Vacqueyras, can come only from the village of that name.  It is regarded as a cru wine. Some other southern Rhone cru villages are Gigondas, most recently Cairanne and,  most famously, Chateauneuf du Pape. It can all get a little complicated for the outsider. 

While the various designations are much sought after, quite often it comes back to the winemaker. A good winemaker can make a Côtes du Rhône every bit as good as a cru whereas a poor winemaker will more than likely have a poor result even in a cru village. The two below are from opposite ends of the appellation "scale" yet, for me, it is very difficult to pick a clear "winner". 

Chateau de Bastet “Terram” Côtes du Rhône (AOP) 2017, 14%, €14.75 Mary Pawle Wine

Colour is ruby (mid to dark), the liquid attractively bright in the glass. Jammy red fruits (raspberries, strawberries) on the nose and then lively red fruit flavours on the palate, a nice light spice too, delicate tannins, fresh acidity but well balanced for sure. Very accessible and clean (no herbicides, no pesticides here). It is is both organic and biodynamic and the blend is 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Very Highly Recommended.

Grenache qualities enhance fruitiness, warmth and body while Syrah can bring a hint of spice, as well as depth in colour and strength to the wine enabling it to age well.

Terram, Latin for land, is one of the four elements, so, not surprisingly, they also produce wines called Aeris, Aqua and Ignis (air, water, fire). Pairings recommended include appetisers, cold cuts, barbecued meat or small goat's cheeses and even more exotic dishes. This could be one of the LDR (light dry reds, now very popular). Recommended serving temperature is 14 degrees, so a slight chilling may be required.

Jérome Quiot Vacqueyras (AOC) 2015, 14.5%, €22.15 (Karwig, now closed)

Rhone wines by the Quiot family were a mainstay in Karwig for many years. This fruit was hand-picked from a single property located at the foot of the famous hills, the Dentelles de Montmirail. You can expect it to match with veal, game birds and cheeses.

Colour is crimson, legs clear slowly. Fairly intense aromas (dark berries, cherries, herbal notes too). Fruit and some spice on the palate, quite a juicy presence. Full bodied with good length on the finish that reflects the palate experience. Very Highly Recommended.

Vacqueyras is almost exclusively red wine country and grapes allowed include Grenache (at least 50%), Syrah  and Mourvedre (at least 20%).

Amuse Bouche

Ronnie regularly cooked at home, whether it was a breakfast of slowly fried garlic, chopped parsley with fresh chillies finished with a fried egg, or a simple lunch of fresh whiting dusted in seasoned flour and cooked in the pan with real Irish butter and the best Spanish olive oil. He enjoyed cooking… and delivered some excellent dishes. Food was a defining element of the Drew household.

from Beautiful Affair by Mike Hanrahan (2019). Very Highly Recommended.

SuperValu Christmas Wines. A few tips before you shop!

SuperValu Christmas Wines.

 A few tips before you shop!

Reckon I hit the jackpot with the Castellani Vermentino, my first pick from the current SuperValu Christmas Wine range. It’s a beauty as you may read below. Reductions on a large selection of wines, both red and white, and beyond, continue right up to closing time on Christmas Eve. This post, the first of two, takes a look at the whites (plus sparkling) and may help you with your choices.

Castellani Vermentino Toscana (IGT) 2017, 12.5%, 10.00 (16.99)

Vermentino may not be one of the better known white grapes but it is one of those Mediterranean whites that I like and this is one hundred per cent Vermentino. I like this one too and it is especially good value at the moment.

Colour is a very pale straw, very clear and bright liquid. Inviting aromas, with white fruit along with herbal and floral notes. Quite smooth on the palate, stone fruit flavours, long with a lively acidity which should help it with food. Soups, chicken salad, fish courses and appetizers are suggested by the producer.

Abellio Albarino Rias Baixas (DO), 12.5%, €10.00 (was 14.99).

I never say no to an Albarino and this zesty and well balanced Abellio is a favourite of mine. It is ideal with shellfish and fish and also recommended for lightly spiced Asian chicken dishes. The medium intense aromas are of white fruit. It has a smooth character on the palate, refreshing with intense fruit (pear, apple and peach).

For a few Euro more….

Goichot is the “maison” behind the Chablis on offer, at 15 euro. This, of course, is a Chardonnay, dry and fresh. If this is your first Chablis, you’ll probably find it much drier and fresher than the  non-Burgundian Chardonnays you've been drinking. It has the characteristic mineral aromas that hint of the dryness and freshness to come on the palate. It is quite a gorgeous mouthful, fruit and acidity in good balance and a super dry finalé.

Sauvignon Blanc Fans….

No doubt, there are a few Sauvignon Blanc fans out there and SuperValu have you well covered. The very classy Guy Saget Sancerre is out on its own. And you may also choose from a Brancott Estate, a Graham Norton edition, along with those from the reliable Chilean producers Santa Rita and Cono Sur. Over to you! Enjoy responsibly.

By the way, you can benefit again if you buy 6 bottles as that entitles you to another tenner off the total. In that case, a ten euro bottle actually costs you €8.33. Over to you! Enjoy responsibly.

Sparkling.....

Gran Troya Cava Brut NV 11.5%, €12.00 (down from 26)

Cava is a different distinctive under-rated sparkling wine, made in Spain using the same method as Champagne. If you haven’t tried it before, this is a terrific introduction.

Colour is a pale yellow and there is no shortage of tiny bubbles rising to the top and forming a ring around the perimeter of the glass. It is intense and fruity with a long dry finish. A classic Cava. The grapes used are the traditional Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada “from our own vineyards”. Try with olives, grilled almonds.

Pierre Darcys Champagne Brut NV €20 (29.99)

This pale lemon-yellow with is steady stream of small bubbles, its delicate aromas, certainly has got the usual characteristics; it is crisp and well balanced and runs out quickly! Try it with the smoked salmon!

Also on offer is the Graham Norton Prosecco Frizzante. Again there are lots of bubbles but this time they don’t hang around. This is a Frizzante (gently sparkling) not a Spumante (fully sparkling). You’ll also note a different closure on it - use your normal corkscrew to get started. While it is nowhere near as bubbly as the Cava, this calmer bottle is very very pleasant indeed.

Something Different at Dockland. A Delightful Diversity of Dishes

Something Different at Dockland 

A Delightful Diversity of Dishes

Thai Curry

The transition from Club Brasserie to Dockland had some punters worried. But it was more or less seamless and soon we realised that, while there were many small plates here, the choice was bigger than ever, the types of dishes more varied than before. You don’t need to be over adventurous to enjoy the flavoursome food here but plain eaters may have to study the menu in some detail.

Toulouse sausage

We arrived in early on a Friday, in good form having earlier attended the O’Donovan Wine Fair in the nearby Clayton. The form wasn’t entirely down to the wine - we spit much more than we swallowed. But the drops and the chats were enjoyable as was the warm welcome by Beth and her newly male reinforced Dockland team!

There are no sub headings on the menu, just one title: bites to bigger bites. Roughly you have a dozen bites (small plates) and, believe it or not, more or less the same number of bigger bites (main courses, if you will, not that the old terminology is entirely accurate here). You could perhaps have three bites, or one bite and one bigger, or even two bigger. Lots of scope to try different things and also to share.

And lots to drink also, including an increasing choice of non-alcoholic (they’re working on that!). A good list of white and red wines, an impressive collection of gins, and a full bar too. No shortage but in the circumstances we gave it a skip on the night.

It did take us a while to go through the menu. I started with the Toulouse Sausage Bruschetta, with tomato chilli jam, roasted red onions, mustard mayo and honey mustard dressing. With a crispy little salad, this was terrific, moist and full of texture and flavour, a terrific bite and I was on my way for six euro.

Roasted stuffed Aubergine

CL’s opener cost the same, actually 6.50. Her choice was the Roasted Stuffed Aubergine, with tomato fondue, roasted red onions, feta cheese, sumac and mint oil. Again, moist and delicious, a cracking combination of textures and flavours. Up and running.

Just to give you an idea of the variety here, I’ll detail two of the other “bites”. One is the Moroccan Lamb Koftas (ras al hanout, saffron aioli, harissa oil, and zataar), another the Macroom Halloumi cheese, courgette plus carrot fritters. With all the various combinations available here, you could eat at Dockland for weeks and not repeat yourself.

Big bites are just as varied. You could have Crispy Asian Duck confit plus a spiced noodle salad (with blood orange lime nam iiim chilli dressing, coriander, chillies, mint, toasted tomato seeds, sugarsnap, mixed peppers). I was seriously considering that before I made a different choice.  Also tempting was the Slow Roasted Crispy Belly of Pork with fennel seeds, served with Borlotti beans, rosemary, buttered cabbage, Clonakilty blackpudding and caramelised apple.

In the end, my pick was the Thai Green Chicken Curry, basmati rice, cucumber mint salad (18.00). At first glance, I thought this was a little on the small side but the bowls were packed, one with the curry (oh those crunchy peppers), the rice was perfectly cooked and that little bowl of cucumber sauce played a key role and I also enjoyed my poppadum. Took my time with that I can tell you and enjoyed every little bit - no room for dessert at the end!

Dhal

Our other dish was also from the east: Spiced Lentil and sweet potato dhal, spinach, basmati rice, poppadum crisps and yogurt (16.00). The result here was equally satisfying, a superb and generous counter to the cold outside. We were very happy with those two dishes, not the kind of plates you’d do at home (and that’s one of the reasons we venture out to Cork’s marvellous restaurants and cafes).

And that plain eater?  Perhaps the Chargrilled Ribeye steak along with the Dockland Dirty Fries would do the trick. Even there, expect a surprise or two like the roasted harissa oil with the chips! Plain or adventurous, you’ll be well looked after here. The welcome is warm and the service is efficient and friendly.

Spoil the ladies in your life this Christmas with Afternoon Tea in aid of cancer research

  Fashion stylist Grace Keane, broadcaster Deirdre O’Shaughnessy and beauty expert, Mary-Jane O’Regan, pictured at the launch of the Breakthrough Cancer Research Women’s Little Christmas Afternoon Tea glamour event which will take place on in Fota Island Resort on 5th January  2020. Tickets for this charity event can be purchased through www.breakthroughcancerresearch.ie

Spoil the ladies in your life this Christmas with Afternoon Tea in aid of cancer research

Treat yourself and the ladies in your life to the perfect gift this Christmas, an afternoon of fashion, glamour and pampering at the Women’s Little Christmas Afternoon Tea in aid of Breakthrough Cancer Research. The event will take place on Sunday, 5th January 2020 in the luxurious surroundings of the Fota Island Resort.


Joining us this year as our glamourous MC is Deirdre O’Shaughnessy, Journalist and Broadcaster. Now in its 9th year, Breakthrough’s Women’s Little Christmas Afternoon Tea & Fashion Showcase promises to be bigger and better than ever, commencing with a refreshing Pink Gin reception on arrival (sponsored by Pernod Ricard), a craft exhibitor showcase, and pampering treatments from the Spa at Fota Island Resort.


Sumptuous Afternoon Tea will follow, during which guests will be entertained with a ‘how to’ makeup demo from Glamity Jane, renowned beauty expert from HiStyle, and wowed by a head-turning fashion segment hosted by Grace Keane of Silk Peaches and Serenity boutiques in Ballincollig. Throughout, guests will enjoy music from the Loungeman and attendees will also be in with a chance of winning the event’s best dressed lady competition, goody bags and more!


Orla Dolan, Director of Fundraising with Breakthrough Cancer Research said, “Nollaig na mBan or Women’s Little Christmas is a fabulous excuse to catch up with the ladies in your life after a hectic Christmas, and Breakthrough’s Women’s Little Christmas Afternoon Tea is a perfect excuse to have some well-deserved ‘Me’ time, for a great cause. All proceeds from the event go towards developing new treatments for poor prognosis cancers and those which currently respond poorly to conventional therapies.”


Breakthrough Cancer Research is leading the way with research into cancers with poor prognosis such as ovarian, pancreatic, lung and oesophageal. From its research centre in Cork, Breatkthrough has already progressed seven treatments from the laboratory to clinical trial. The organisation works closely with multiple hospitals to ensure its research is responding to the needs of patients with cancers that do not respond to conventional therapies.


Tickets for this very special event are priced at €50 and usually sell out fast, so book now to avoid disappointment. To purchase your ticket, call Breakthrough Cancer Research on 021 4226655, or go to our website www.breakthroughcancerresearch.ie for a link to Eventbrite.


----

Press Release November 26th, 2019 

Taste of the Week from Kilbrack Farm. Buy local, fresh and fair.

Taste of the Week

from Kilbrack Farm

I found my current Taste of the Week in the superb kale on sale at the Kilbrack Farm stall in the Coal Quay Farmers Market last Saturday. They have other amazing organic vegetables, as does Caroline Robinson a few stalls away. It doesn't have to be just at the Coal Quay. Midleton or Douglas Markets may be more convenient for you. I plan to go to Killavullen next Saturday morning. If Saturday doesn't suit, head to Mahon Point on Thursday. There's a couple of excellent farmers stalls there and don't tell me the markets are expensive. Last week, I got five or six superb carrots in Mahon for one euro!

After the Coal Quay last Saturday, I called to the English Market. Eoin O'Mahony had a lovely piece of porchetta* to go with the kale. There was bread from ABC and paté from On the Pig's Back. As you know, there's lots of other stalls in both markets so no shortage of choice. The point I'm making is support local, buy fresh and fair and you'll end up with a taste of the week that suits your tastes and your budget and, more than likely, your health. The longer my food's journey, the less I trust in it (anyone been watching Rotten on Netflix?). So buy local and from a trusted source. The more we pull together, the further we will go.

* Speaking of pork, we got a delicious shoulder from Woodside Farm at Mahon Thursday; cooked low and slow with seasonal root vegetables, it gave us a very satisfactory dinner on Sunday, as it regularly does.