New Challenge for Noel Sweeney at Powerscourt Distillery

New Challenge for Noel Sweeney at Powerscourt Distillery

“The distiller’s challenge nowadays is to produce a style”, according to Master Distiller Noel Sweeney (right).

We were visiting the new Powerscourt Distillery on the estate, a visit hosted by Marketing Manager Caroline Gardiner who arranged for us to have a tasting with Noel.

He doesn’t particularly think that you can attach the word “innovation” to any of today’s various finishes as they’ve all been done before. But he reckons that there may be room for innovation at the other end, in the mash bill, and mentioned the Teeling Rye as an example.

Powerscourt Distillery and Visitor Centre

All aspects of spirit production and whiskey maturation fall under Sweeney’s careful supervision at Powerscourt Distillery. And we were privileged to have a chat and a tasting with Noel.

We started with the Fercullen 10-year old Single Grain. He is not surprised that it is successful, “a star performer”, and thinks that particular category is generally “under-rated”. It is indeed hugely enjoyable and I bought a bottle in the shop on the way out.

All set up for our tasting

His long experience of this style shows in the Fercullen whisky, experience gained and tempered in the good old days when grain matured in “good Bourbon barrels” became very popular as Greenore (now replaced by Kilbeggan Single Grain). 

Powerscourt have just begun to lay down their own whiskey and the three we tasted are based on old stock made by Sweeney while at Cooley where he began his 30 plus year whiskey career and stayed on after founder John Teeling sold to Beam in 2011. 

The Mash Tun

Noel is one of just a handful of Irish distillers to have been inducted into Whisky Magazine’s ‘Hall of Fame’ and Powerscourt are indeed lucky to have him, as Caroline emphasised.

After that lovely and light, smooth and sweet 10-year old grain, we tried the well-rounded Premium Blend. This, with its nicely judged blend of youngish grain and older malt, has a lot to offer, according to Noel, pointing to its “different maltiness” and excellent body.

We finished with the 14 year Pure Malt, matured in Bourbon barrels, the darkest of the three and also the strongest (46%). It has intense aromas, is smooth on the palate and that bit spicier. You may well need to add a drop or two of water to this.

If Noel didn’t hit the sweet spot with the 14-year old - and I reckon he did - he is even more sure of having done it with the soon to be released 18 year with its abv of 43%. Watch out for that!

In the warehouse

You enter the new distillery visitor centre via the Old Mill House steeped in history and built using local Wicklow granite. This has being faithfully restored  - you’ll see some of the original machinery under the glass floor - and extended to help accommodate the distillery’s development. The bell that adorns the northern west wall was originally used to herald the daily lunch break to workers in distant fields.

Whiskey in wine barrels

Must admit I didn’t see the bell that day. The rain was bucketing down and we couldn’t even see the Sugar Loaf mountain whose silhouette appears on all the Fercullen bottles. The next day, also wet, we got up close (and very wet) when we visited the Powerscourt Waterfall, the source of the water that the new distillery uses.

The history of the Powerscourt Estate can be traced back to the 9th century to a territory that stretches across fertile plains and rugged mountainous land.

Known in native Gaelic tongue as “FeraCulann” or Fercullen, it is located in the foothold of the Wicklow mountains, close to Dublin. Ownership has been claimed by many over the centuries, from the native Clans of O’Toole and O’Byrne, to the Norman house of LePoer (who built a castle here and from whom the estate takes its name.)

The new distillery (2018) has moved past the 1,000,000 bottle mark recently. The whiskey is being stored in casks (mainly bourbon, but some also in European barrels, mainly from the wine trade) in the on-site warehouse. More storage space will be needed in the not too distant future!

No shortage of fresh water in Powerscourt

The first big item you come across on the distillery tour itself is the Mash tun and from there the steps from grinding to mashing to fermentation to distillation to maturation are explained to you by your guide. You will have picked up some excellent information too in a short video that you start with. The three impressive copper stills were manufactured in Scotland by Forsyths.

And of course, every tour includes a tasting. Indeed, there are no less than six individual tasting rooms. There is a Distillery tour and also a Distillery and Warehouse tour. Some of the rooms are suitable for large groups so corporate visits can be comfortably facilitated and tailored to suit the group’s needs.

They also have a bright and airy café here and if you call in for a cuppa or something more substantial, be sure and try out their Fercullen Whiskey Ice-cream! 

The shop is alongside, very well laid out. And here you may buy a bottle or two or more. The three Fercullen whiskeys are also available, in miniature bottles, in a handy gift-pack. 

And no shortage of other souvenirs. I also spotted the Móinéir Wines (made here in Wicklow by Wicklow Way Wines) and also those delicious biscuits from the Lismore Food Company.

And if you’d like to get involved in the new distillery, check out their Cask Programme. Restricted to a membership of 397 (200L) casks only, each one is intended to represent a foot in height of the nearby 397ft Powerscourt Waterfall. Available to private subscription, the programme offers an exclusive level of involvement with the distillery’s exciting whiskey future. Details here. 

The Powerscourt Distillery 

Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow, Ireland
Eircode: A98 A9T7
Phone: +353 1 506 5656

Also on this trip:
The Wicklow Heather
Powerscourt Hotel

Blas na hÉireann 2019 winners announced, with 46 producers winning from County Cork

Blas na hÉireann 2019 winners announced, with 46 producers winning from County Cork

Winner Caroline Murphy of West Cork Eggs receives her award from John Sheehy (left) of Blas
and David Henderson

Blas na hÉireann, the Irish food awards, announced this year’s winners, with 46 producers winning from Cork, announced at the 2019 finals which have just concluded in Dingle.

Now in their 12th year, the Blas na hÉireann awards are the all-island food awards that recognise the very best Irish food and drink products, and the passionate people behind them.

The bronze, silver and gold winners from Cork across a range of different categories are 9 White Deer Brewery Ltd., Bainne Codladh Ltd., Bandon Vale Cheese Limited, Bluebell Falls, Bó Rua Farm, Caherbeg Free Range Pork Ltd., Centra - Inspired by Centra made in store salads, Clonakilty Food Company, Cooke's At The Gallery, Elbow Lane Brewhouse Ltd., Fitzgeralds Butchers, Follain, Gloun Cross Diaries, Good Food Processing Ltd., Gourmet Pantry Kinsale, Happy Days Artisan Ice Cream, Henry Denny & Sons (IRE) Ltd., Hodgins Sausages, Irish Yogurts Clonakilty, Keohane Seafoods, Kepak Cork, Kinsale Mead Co., Longueville House Beverages, Maggie's Homemade Jam, MamaBear Foods Ltd., Mellas Fudge, Nohoval Drinks Company, Ó Crualaoi Feoil Teo, O'Leary Family Butchers, On The Pig's Back - La Charcuterie Irlandaise Ltd., Praline Pastry Shop, Quish's Kitchen, Saturday Pizzas, Serendipity Smokehouse, Shannonvale, Skeaghanore  Duck, Spice O' Life Ltd., St. Patricks, Distillery Ltd., The Fresh Fish Deli, Tom Durcan Meats Ltd., Uflourish Foods, Union Hall Smoked Fish, Velo Coffee Roasters, West Cork Distillers, West Cork Eggs Ltd. and West Cork Garlic. With Follain winning Best in Cork and On The Pig's Back - La Charcuterie Irlandaise Ltd. winning Best in Farmer’s Market for Cork.

The biggest blind tasting of produce in the country, the criteria on which the product is judged as well as the judging system itself, which was developed by Blas na hÉireann with the Food Science Dept of UCC and the University of Copenhagen, is now recognised as an industry gold standard worldwide.

Products entered are blind-tasted, meaning that all packaging and identifying features are removed from products before being presented for judging, creating a level playing field for products from both large and small producers. Judges come from a range of food backgrounds from chefs to restaurateurs, academics, journalists, authors, food champions, caterers and enthusiastic home cooks.

The founding mission of Blas – establishing quality benchmarks for Irish produce on a level playing field – is strictly adhered to and measurably applied.

Speaking after the announcement Artie Clifford, Chairperson and founder of Blas na hÉireann said, “Blas na Éireann 2019 has been another exceptional year showcasing the talents and hard work of some of this country’s most innovative, forward-thinking and disciplined food entrepreneurs. This is our 12th year of the Blas na hÉireann awards, and our aim continues to be to assist Irish producers to tell their stories by marking them out as special, and worth exploring. Winning a Blas award has been shown to work for our previous winners in bringing them to the attention of food-lovers both at home and abroad and we are looking forward to yet another exceptional year for our worthy winners of Blas na hÉireann 2019.”

 Press release

Amuse Bouche

The broth was superb…. It transmitted warmth…. down into my gullet and through my chest and shoulders as it passed. Levels of flavor unfolded, onion, coconut, chicken, a piquancy I couldn't place. I scooped up another ladleful, with a strip of chicken this time, let the nourishing fire flow through me again. Until placed in this soup’s care I hadn’t realised how chilled I was, how starved for comfort. It felt as if the soup was literally embracing my heart.

FOUR IRISH RESTAURANTS AWARDED MICHELIN BIB GOURMAND STATUS

New Michelin-Star Restaurants will be announced on Monday next, October 7^st, when the 2020 Michelin Guide will be launched live at an event held at The Hurlingham Club, London, commencing circa 16.30pm.

FOUR IRISH RESTAURANTS AWARDED MICHELIN BIB GOURMAND STATUS

Ireland records four new names amongst 20 Bib Gourmand recipients in 2020 Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland

Northern Ireland has one new name amongst six Bib Gourmand recipients  

Four Irish restaurants join the list of 20 Bib Gourmand recipients whose names feature in the 2020 Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland.

Michelin Bib Gourmand awards recognise those establishments offering good food at affordable prices.

The four newcomers are: Thyme (Athlone); Land to Sea (Dingle); Circa (Terenure) and Uno Mas (Aungier Street, Dublin).

Others, all of which retain Bib Gourmand status from earlier years, are 1826 Adare (Adare); Aldridge Lodge (Duncannon); Brownes (Tuam); Chart House (Dingle); The Courthouse (Carrickmacross); Dillon’s (Timoleague, Cork); Giovannelli (Killorglin); Kai (Galway City); Morrissey’s (Doonbeg); Sha-Roe Bistro (Clonegal); Tartare Café & Wine Bar (Galway City) and TwoCooks (Sallins).

In Dublin city, Clanbrassil House (Clanbrassil Street); Pichet (Trinity Street); Pigeon House (Clontarf); and Richmond (Portobello) retain their Bib Gourmand status.

Northern Ireland – six Bib Gourmand awards

In Northern Ireland, Balloo House in Killinchy, Newtownards joins the list of six Michelin Bib Gourmand establishments in the province.

Retaining their awards from last year are Clenaghans (near Aghalee, Co. Antrim) Noble (Holywood); Wine & Brine (Moira) and Belfast’s Deanes at Queen’s and Home in Wellington Place.

Announcing the Bib Gourmand awards, Rebecca Burr, Director of the Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland, said: “The eating out offer in Ireland just seems to go from strength to strength, and the new Bib Gourmands reflect this. They are really varied in terms of location, food and ambience, but are all producing very good meals with excellent produce. That produce is very often local, and it is really pleasing to see restaurants like Thyme, Land to Sea, Circa, Uno Mas and Balloo House flourishing.”

The Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2020 Guide will be will published on Monday, 7th October and will be available at http://travel.michelin.co.uk and in bookshops.

press release

Taste of the Week. Timos Irish Cheddar Cheese

Taste of the Week
Timos Irish Cheddar Cheese

Didn’t see any cheese stall while strolling around the local Farmers Market last Saturday (28th September), so called into the shopping centre and spotted a selection in the Douglas Vegetable Fruit and Veg shop.

I hadn’t seen this one before: Timos Mature Cheddar, made in East Cork by Carrig Foods. The label also indicates it has been “slowly matured for over two years” and is “very Flavoursome”. It is now our Taste of the Week.

Enjoyed a small tasting with Arbutus sourdough (and not much else) during a quick lunch. It certainly is very flavoursome and not as “dried out” as some mature cheddars.  Apparently the company was set up eight or nine years ago by Siobhain, the daughter of Jane Murphy who makes the multi-award winning Ardsallagh Goat Cheese. 

Carrig Foods Ltd

Woodstock

Carrigtwohill

Co. Cork

Tel: 021-4882338.

A very modern Afternoon Tea at The River Lee

press release

A very modern Afternoon Tea at The River Lee, in partnership with Ireland’s leading luxury skin health brand, Modern Botany

Modern Botany is Ireland’s leading luxury skin health brand, based in Schull in beautiful west Cork, along the Wild Atlantic Way.

The River Lee introduces a very modern Afternoon Tea in partnership with Modern Botany, an elegant celebration of some of the botanical richness of the Wild Atlantic Way which this contemporary Irish success story has incorporated into its exclusive series of exceptional products.

Plants and flowers, both wild and cultivated, are at the heart of Modern Botany’s approach to skincare, using the best natural botanical ingredients to promote skin health, including flax, calendula, borage and chamomile. These same plants and herbs all feature in this Modern Botany Afternoon Tea at The River Lee. 

Get a feel for the flavours of the Wild Atlantic Way without leaving the comfort of your armchair, as the exquisite top tier sweet treats include the selected Modern Botany ingredients, in a chamomile & honey Carrageen moss pudding, calendula mousseline cream and a Bramley apple & flax financier.

Starting with a surprise amuse bouche, Modern Botany Afternoon Tea also celebrates the best of Cork produce in classic finger sandwiches like curry spiced coronation chicken, cucumber & chive Glenilen Farm cream cheese, and dressed Ballycotton crab on homemade Guinness brown bread, along with a selection of handmade scones and tea cakes served with luscious Glenilen Farm clotted cream and fruit preserves. 

It wouldn’t be an afternoon tea without a proper tea, so all Modern Botany Afternoon Teas at The River Lee are served with the house tea – Barry’s Gold Blend, a blend from the finest tea gardens of Rwanda, Kenya and the Assam Valley of India, and famous for its rich golden colour and much-loved taste. Barry’s Tea is one of Cork’s most famous exports, and one of which locals are supremely proud. There’s also a selection of Ronnefeldt loose leaf teas from which to choose, as well as a coffee menu.

Modern Botany Afternoon Tea is available daily from 12-5pm in The Cocktail Bar in the lobby of The River Lee, the ideal spot for an afternoon tea with a sophisticated and refined nature. The space is a glamorous take on a mid-century cocktail bar with a handmade mahogany bar topped with white marble counter, plush velvet seating and rich textures. 

Modern Botany Afternoon Tea is a tempting tea with a distinct botanical slant and is available for €35 per person. Prosecco Afternoon Tea is available for €43 per person and Champagne Afternoon Tea for €50 per person. Pioneers in natural beauty with a firm focus on quality, Modern Botany make the perfect partner for The River Lee and, an extra treat, each guest will also receive a complimentary and exclusive Modern Botany travel-size gift.

To book, call 021 4937772 

MARKET LANE GROUP TO CELEBRATE ARRIVAL OF BLASKET ISLAND LAMB ON MENUS

MARKET LANE GROUP TO CELEBRATE 

ARRIVAL OF BLASKET ISLAND LAMB ON MENUS

As the tiny flock of lambs arrived safely on shore at Dun Chaoin harbour late September, following a choppy boat ride from Beaginish island, across the Dingle Sound, there was an audible sigh of relief. In 2018 the weather was so bad in Dingle that it was too dangerous even to attempt to get the lambs off the islands, so their safe arrival this year is seen as a blessing.

In the meantime, Cork’s Market Lane Group of restaurants, which includes Market Lane, Elbow Lane, ORSO, Goldie and Castle Café, have been preparing for weeks to celebrate this unique, award-winning Autumn lamb.  Dishes, which have been created to use every part of the animal, will be on menus from mid/end of October until their exclusive supply of this wonderful product has run out. 

The habitat on the islands is what makes this product so special. The animals mostly graze on the small island of Beginish, a natural bird sanctuary, which makes the soil incredibly fertile.  There, the animals graze at leisure in a marshy meadow full of heather, grasslands and wild herbs.  They have even been known to nibble on the seaweed which washes up on the natural beaches that provide access to the island.  The grass is salty from sea spray and this gives the lamb its highly valued pre-sale flavour.

As the animals are free to roam uninterrupted, there is no forced ‘fattening’.  This means that the lamb is leaner, ‘creating a near-perfect fat to meat ratio’ says award-winning Dingle Butcher, Jerry Kennedy.  “Fortunately, there is no liver fluke on the islands, so the lamb is not treated for anything other than worms.” 

Conrad Howard, head of the Market Lane Group, who has been supporting Blasket Island lamb for many years now says “We are delighted as a group to highlight this very special produce.  The impeccable provenance of this lamb is reflected in its superb quality and flavour. We are also very proud to be the only restaurants to serve it to our customers. Our chefs begin creating their dishes in August in the anticipation and hope that the lamb will arrive.”

Diners can look forward to dishes such as ‘Spicy Lamb Sausage, grated tomato, red onion, parsley pine nuts, mint, and sumac served with flatbread, ‘Slow Roasted Lamb Neck Shawarma with tahini, green peppercorn and pickled squash, ‘Braised lamb breast with black garlic mash, wild mushroom and Tawny cider jus’, and ‘Loin of lamb with pancetta and potato terrine, aubergine puree, winter vegetables and a lamb jus’.

The story begins with smallholder, Donnacha O Ceileachair, who shepherds his small flock of sheep on the Islands.  When the April-born lambs are ready in September, he brings them from the island onto his farm on the mainland.  After a couple of weeks, Kennedy then picks out the premium lambs which are sent for slaughter.  “Timing is very important,” says Kennedy.  “The lambs have been used to the peaceful surrounds of the islands and they can lose weight very quickly when they are distressed.  After selecting out the lamb for the Market Lane Group, the remainder will be sold through his shop in Dingle town to a waiting list of customers.

It is a very dangerous job to get the animals off the islands.  “You have to be pretty fit and healthy,” says O’Ceileachair.  “We will be looking very soon to get the younger generation involved to make sure that this tradition is kept alive and well - so the public can continue to enjoy the unique and delicious taste of this special lamb.”

Updates for the Blasket Island Lamb Celebration at the Market Lane Group of restaurants will be available on its social media channels.

press release

Bellissimi Vini. Beautiful Wines from La Biancara

Bellissimi Vini. Beautiful Wines from La Biancara.

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Bianco Veneto (IGT) 2017, 11.5%, €18.85 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Early 2018 in Dublin, Francesco Maule, the son of the founders of La Biancara, stressed the importance of having a “very good quality grape”, otherwise there is the risk of extracting “bad things”. In the cellar, “nothing is added, nothing is removed”. You can taste the result in this Masieri white (and also in the red).

Colour: Light straw, cloudy. Aromas are complex, yet moderate; white fruit (apples) in the mix. Excellent mouthfeel as it spreads across, citrus and stone-fruit flavours combined with an energetic acidity. The citrus influenced finish is lengthy with no shortage of minerality. Very Highly Recommended. Quite often in the past, Garganega has underachieved but here, thanks to the Maule family, its potential has been realised.

Francesco Maule

It consists of 90% Garganega and 10% other varieties. It is unfiltered, hence the slight cloudiness. The grapes, which are the fruit of vines in volcanic soils grown using natural methods, are fermented spontaneously. It can be combined, the Maules say, with lasagna of asparagus, pasta with pesto alla genovese, amberjack carpaccio and baccalà alla vicentina. Best of luck with those dishes but at least you have a few hints.

Vino Italiano, which praises the vineyard (as does the World Atlas of Wine), says it could be argued that the (white) wines here are purer expressions of Garganega than those of neighbouring Soave. Garganega is thought by some to be related to the Greco (another Mediterranean grape that I favour) of southern Italy.

Angiolino Maule is one of the founding figures of natural farming and wine-making in Italy. He has been setting an example in both practices since the late 1980’s and is now assisted by his two sons, Francesco and Alessandro.

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Rosso Veneto (IGT) 2018,  14.0%, €22.25 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

The label tells us this red is a blend of Merlot (50%) and Tai Rosso (50). In some years Cabernet Sauvignon is used. Tai Rosso is more or less the same grape as Grenache. Spontaneously fermented grapes, from vines grown in volcanic soils using natural methods, this is an unfiltered wine, without added sulphites.

Colour is a deep ruby. Cherry and blackberry in the aromas, also some floral elements. It is fresh and juicy on the harmonious palate, a touch of spice features too, a hint of liquorice there too, tannins well-integrated. Easy-drinking from start to impressive finish and Very Highly Recommended.

Perryville House - Guesthouse of the Year Winner

Kinsale's Perryville House is Guesthouse of the Year

Honey in the morning

Beer at night

Congratulations to Perryville House in Kinsale. The splendidly situated house, with excellent views over the harbour, was named Guesthouse of the Year in the recently announced and highly coveted Georgina Campbell Ireland Guide Awards 2020.

By coincidence, I had stayed there a few days before the awards were announced. Most of the guests had travelled much further; this lovely waterside venue is very popular with American and European visitors.

Must say I was very happy indeed to see Perryville win, if only for their support of Irish produce. When we checked in, the first thing I noticed in my room, alongside the Espresso coffee machine, was a pack of shortbread biscuits. No, not those anonymous packs you get elsewhere but the delicious Seymour Biscuits that are made by Philip O'Connor in the neighbouring town of Bandon.

Later that night, much later, I called to the amazing comfortable in-house bar here. I knew they hadn’t draught beer so I enquired about bottles and again they came up trumps with the local Black's Brewery 1601 lager.

Before heading out to dinner that first evening, we were strongly advised not to miss the breakfast. "It would be foolish to do so!" Good advice indeed, not that we had any intention of skipping it in any case.

We weren't disappointed. The breakfast is indeed unmissable and served in a room to match. And the menu is based on local produce and includes Gubbeen cheese, Glenilen yogurt, Barrett butchers sausages and bacon, and Hederman smoked salmon.

The hot menu includes their creamy organic porridge served with cinnamon-infused soft brown sugar. Of course, they have the Full Irish and shorter versions. And they also do a Pan-fried fish of the day. French toast with poached berry compote is a favourite. Pancakes are a favourite of ours recently and theirs, packed with berries, come with maple syrup and few more berries for good measure, nicely presented too.

If you read the reviews, you’ll note nothing but praise for their Eggs Benedict. I tried it and gave it the thumbs up. Two fresh eggs (just delivered by Siobhan from her nearby farm) on toasted sourdough, crispy bacon too and all smothered in sauce. Delicious

The cold buffet is eye-catching and includes fresh orange juice, iced water, granola, boxes of other cereals, a mini-fridge with yogurts, home-made preserves (Lemon Curd, Raspberry, Marmalade), honeycomb from the owners’ bees, their own pastries (include pear/almond scones) and bites sized slice of cakes (eg blueberry).

A big bowl of mixed fruits and other tempting fruit dishes such as poached plums and poached rhubarb in honey. And then there’s all that well-known West Cork Cheese with grapes and chutney. No shortage of anything and great service as well in this friendly place. And lovely too to meet up with Emily at check-out. We used meet her regularly over Karwig Wines. She was helpful there and is just as helpful here, as was everyone one we met in Perryville. 

This is the full citation for the award:

More country house than townhouse, Andrew and Laura Corcoran’s Georgian harbour-front home is the prettiest in Kinsale. Renovated and furnished with style, it is immaculately maintained and offers plenty of relaxing space, including a handsome bar and garden room, as well as outstanding accommodation in generous and extremely comfortable rooms (with luxurious bathrooms). Ten new rooms were added this year - so seamlessly executed that the casual observer would never guess at any recent changes. And, masters of detail as always, they even created a stunning new garden to the side of the building so that rooms without a seaview would have an equally pleasing outlook. All this plus great service and, reflecting the Corcorans’ Slow Food philosophy, carefully considered food. An outstanding destination.

for a full list of the winners and citations please click here http://www.ireland-guide.com/award/full-awards-list-and-citations.2451.html

Superb Cuisine in Capacious and Comfortable Cornstore

Superb Cuisine in Capacious and Comfortable Cornstore

Very much enjoyed the cuisine, not to mention the comfort of the renovated dining room, at dinner in the well-established and hugely popular Cornstore last week. Cold and wet outside but we were cosy and well fed inside.

The Oyster Festival may be over - and we did visit the Cornstore as one of the stops on the previous Saturday’s Gourmet Trail - but there is no shortage of oysters around. And they have quite a variation here with their Hot Grilled Buffalo Oysters, an unusual twist on the classic Buffalo wings that, with ginger beer pickled samphire, gives the molluscs a spicy lift!

There’s quite a choice of starters on the A La Carte here, about ten appetisers plus five small plates and also a special or two on the night. I had been looking at two of the specials - smoked mackerel and lamb kebab - before ordering the oysters. CL’s pick was the Heirloom Tomato Salad with Crumbled feta, red onion, toasted pistachio, shredded basil & organic rapeseed oil.

No shortage of choice either when it comes to the main section,. Here their famous aged steaks have a little section to themselves and, as we’ve found out on previous occasions, are top class. This time though I picked Rack and rolled lamb (Roast rack of lamb & braised shoulder of lamb, rosemary and sweet potato cake, leek fricassee & a mint pesto). The rack is served medium here and was perfect. Hard to beat the tender shoulder, hard to beat the whole combination, the different textures of the lamb, the soft crunch of the leek plus the bread-like feel of the cake. Quite a dish.

CL loves her fish. As this is another speciality of the house, it was with confidence that she ordered the Baked salmon with grilled prawns with Fondant potato, tender stem broccoli, samphire and blood orange hollandaise. And that confidence was well placed indeed and well rewarded too.

Quality all the way at the Cornstore but no shortage of quantity either, so there was some hesitation about dessert before we decided to share the Vanilla Crème Brulée with salted chocolate biscuit. Again a delicious choice, even that biscuit was a beauty!

Whiskeys galore here and the Cornstore cocktails (including dessert cocktails and mocktails) are legendary. An extensive wine list includes whites from light and crisp to rich and elegant, reds from easy drinking to full bodied and robust.You may get craft beers by the bottle - I noticed bottles from Blacks of Kinsale and Black Donkey of Roscommon on the list. And I found another one, a wheat beer, for my non-alcoholic “collection”, a Schneider Weisse by the famous German brewer. Enjoyed that!

Enjoyed the dinner very much indeed and it got even better when a family member texted us with an offer of a lift home. Delighted to accept!

• By the way, their Christmas Group Festive menus are now available, so you may want to check these out. As you know, the large restaurant is ideal for groups.

The Cornstore 

Cornmarket Street

Cork

4274777

Amuse Bouche

The persistent buzz of the apartment intercom pulls me from my thoughts, telling me my takeout has arrived, but as I tip the delivery boy, I decide to make my own discreet enquiries into what else the Handcocks might have been up to in the intervening years. For that I needed someone unconnected to the practice. It’s been a long time since I spoke to Alex, but if anyone is going to find out something that others have missed on the Handcocks, she will.

from The Hiding Game by Louise Phillips (2019). Very Highly Recommended.

Mescan Brewery announces Oktoberfest West

Mescan's Bart (left) and Cillian in lederhosen

Mescan Brewery announces Oktoberfest West
Saturday October 5th 2019, 1 pm till closing time

There’s no need to go to Munich this year to experience the fun of Oktoberfest. Instead try Oktoberfest West in Westport with Mescan Brewery. Enjoy the best of beer, bratwurst and Bavariana in Gracy's Bar, Westport House on Saturday 5th October. 

This is the fourth incarnation of the popular festival which combines craft beer, music and food in an ideal setting. It’s a confident declaration by the artisan brewing company, particularly in the face of both Dublin and Cork cancelling their Oktoberfest events.

Mescan are teaming up with local chefs to bring festival goers the best bratwurst outside Germany to complement their specially brewed Oktoberfest beer. In the best Oktoberfest tradition the beer is served in an array of steins in all shapes and sizes. Mescan plan to keep the dancing going all day long with a great mix of live bands and leading European Oktoberfest DJs, Johan und Paul, flown in specially for the event.

The venue is easily accessed on foot from Westport Town and drivers will be happy to know there’s ample free parking onsite. Gracy’s Bar is a bar and pizza restaurant in converted farm buildings on the Westport House estate.

Oktoberfest West is part of the Fáilte Ireland Taste the Island campaign. Full details will be posted on Facebook leading up to the event. No tickets are required and entry is free. Dirndls and lederhosen are optional but they'll definitely help to get you in the mood for the party!

press release

High Quality Reds from High Altitudes

Alfredo Maestro “El Marciano”, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon, 2017, 15%, €19.65

64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Dark ruby colour. Aromas of dark fruit, cherry prominent. Spicy dark fruit on the palate, fresh powerful acidity, medium to full bodied, deep and generous, a harmonious example of the grape right through to the long dry finish. Very Highly Recommended.

I've seen it referred to as a glowing Garnacha. And why not? Le Caveau tells us winegrower Alfred Maestro’s mantra is:  “Wine made with only grapes, well-kept vineyards, and healthy land.” 

From the  beginning (he started making his own wine in 1998), he farmed organically.  But, in the cellar, he followed the book, followed the herd, until he began to question himself. No additives in the field so why not follow the same guidelines in the winery? And so he began. On his own path, a path that has led to this beautiful expertly crafted wine and others (he makes no less than 11 cuvées).

By the way, the fruit for this one (a great wine with roast pork) comes from 70 year-old Garnacha vines grown on decomposed granite soils at a staggering 1,150 m. elevation in the upcoming region of Gredos mountain range.  

Domaine Bousquet Grande Reserve Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina) 2014, 13.5%, €24.35 Mary Pawle

A violet robe for this organic wine. Strong aromas of ripe red and darker fruits. Fruity and spicy on the palate with rounded tannins. Excellent concentration of pure fruit. Its time in oak (it has been aged in French oak for 12 months) has helped leave it velvety smooth and the finish is long and satisfying. Quite exquisite overall and Very Highly Recommended. 

Now what to match with it? The barbecue would be a good place to start. The label suggests grilled red meats, cheeses as well as chocolate based desserts. Some of you may well notice chocolate notes in the wine itself.

A 1990 vacation in Argentina was all it took. For third-generation winemaker Jean Bousquet, it was love at first sight. The object of the Frenchman’s desire: the Gualtallary Valley, a scenic, remote, arid terrain high in the Tupungato district of the Uco Valley in Argentina’s Mendoza region, close to the border with Chile. 

Here, where the condors fly and not a vine in sight, Bousquet discovered his dream terroir, an ideal location in which to nurture organically-grown wines. From that virgin territory, nothing planted, no water above ground, no electricity, the French wine-making family’s venture is now recognised as the source of some of Mendoza’s finest wines. The vineyard is located in the foothills of the Andes and is an incredible 1200 metres above sea level. Here the thermal amplitude contributes to fully ripened grapes with excellent acidity.