Monday, April 15, 2019

Dine by the Water. Superb food and superb views

Dine by the Water
Superb food and superb views

Bunnyconnellan's
I’ve been very lucky this past few years to have dined in some well placed restaurants and cafes, places from Cork to Donegal that have a dining room with a view over water. Sometimes over a river, maybe over an estuary, over a lake perhaps, and then sometimes over the ocean. I was lucky too to have brilliant weather in most of the places.
Carrig Country House

Caragh Lake is in Kerry, not too far from Killorglin, and you have great views over its waters when you dine in the splendid Carrig Country House
Screebe House - their photo

There are some similarities between Carrig House and the lovely Screebe House  in Connemara; great food and great views. 
Blairscove

And in West Cork, near Durrus, there is Blairscove House. Here you can enjoy a splendid dinner and views over Dunmanus Bay. And another waterside gem in West Cork is Heron's Cove, perched nicely at Goleen.
Heron's Cove

Breakfast view (just a small section of it!) from the Trident's Pier One
There are no shortages of harbour views in Kinsale. One of my most recent visits was to Man Friday on the hills above the bay . And another recent visit was to the Trident Hotel, right in the town and so close to the waters that you think a boat is going to come through the dining room windows.
Sunrise at Garryvoe
The Samphire at the Garryvoe Hotel has expansive views of Ballycotton Bay and the lighthouse, excellent food too. 
Bayview, Ballycotton

And across the bay, its sister hotel, the Bayview has an even more spectacular cliff-top situation and amazing fish dishes.
Hake at Celtic Ross
The views at Rosscarberry’s Celtic Ross, where French chef Alex Petit maintains a high standard, are quieter but no less pleasant.

No shortage of views from the Inchydoney Hotel (above) which is situated on the spectacular beach of the same name.
Window view from the Eccles

Further west, go and stay at the Eccles Hotel, once home of the rich and famous.

Also in West Cork, be sure and visit beautiful Courtmacsherry and the small Courtmacsherry Hotel with its gorgeous views.
Enjoying a local beer on the terrace of the Lifeboat Inn

Also in Courtmac, you'll find terrific food at the Lifeboat Inn
Lunch-time view at the Cliff House

Ardmore’s Cliff House is renowned for the food, the views over the bay!
Blaa Eggs Benedict at The Granville
View from Strand Inn
overlooking Cahore in Wexford
Prawns Pil Pil
at The Strand

Waterford's excellent  Granville Hotel overlooks the harbour, right in the city centre. 

Next door in Wexford, check out the views from the Strand Inn in Cahore, in the north-east of the county, and also from the dining room at Hook Head Lighthouse in the south-west

Pier 26
Back again to Ballycotton and to Pier 26. This restaurant overlooks the harbour and the lighthouse island and the fish is highly recommended, of course! And down in Schull, L'Escale is right in the harbour area; the lobster here is a must try.


And if you really want a 360 degree ocean view while dining then take a trip from Ringaskiddy in Cork to Roscoff in Brittany on board the Pont Aven.  Splendid food and views!

Dingle
For harbour views, you'll find it hard to beat the sights as you come and go to Dingle’s Out of the Blue. And close by is the Boatyard. Fish will be on the menus of both for sure. Then again, there's a splendid view of Cork Harbour from the tea rooms at Camden Fort Meagher (below).
View over Cork Harbour from Camden Fort Meagher

Rosapenna
No shortage of seaside restaurants in Donegal. One of the best is the Seaview Tavern in Malin Head village even if the view to the sea is somewhat interrupted by the cars park across the road. No such problems at the Rosapenna Golf Hotel, whose dining room overlooks Sheephaven Bay and the beach at Downies. Further west, the bar at the Cove at Portnablagh, another top restaurant, overlooks a different part of the same bay.
The Bayview, Ballycotton
Perhaps the best ocean view is that enjoyed from your table in Bunnyconnellan’s, a very pleasant view and very enjoyable food here at this renowned Crosshaven (Cork) venue.
Islander's Rest on Sherkin
Back to West Cork and to Baltimore and Le Jolie Brise where I’ve sometimes enjoyed a dish of mussels as the day drew to a close with the island of Sherkin out in front. Speaking of Sherkin, the Islander's Rest sure has great water views!
Ostan Gweedore
Hard to top that. One view that comes close, maybe level, maybe even better, is from the Donegal restaurant of Ostan Gweedore where there is the most fantastic view over the beaches and the waters of the Atlantic.

Turbot at Electric Fish Bar
Perhaps you prefer river views. One of the best in Cork is from Electricespecially from the Fish Bar. From the first floor of the South Mall building, you have fine views of the southern channel of Lee to the west and to the east.
River Lee Hotel, top left
Also in the city, you can almost dip your fingers in the Lee as you wine and dine at the River Club  of the lovely River Lee Hotel.  
View from the restaurant in Dripsey Garden Centre

The Garden Restaurant, above the same River Lee, is at the very popular Griffin’s Garden Centre in rural Dripsey. Here you can enjoy some of Granny Griffin’s delights as you watch the water-skiers speed by down below.

Never know what you might see passing as you dine in Cobh
You have no shortage of harbour views in Cobh where you’ll find The Quays and The Titanic Bar & Grill.  And you’ll also find pleasant estuary views not too far away at Murph’s  in East Ferry. 
Kenmare Bay
The Boathouse at Dromquinna, near Kenmare, is also well situated, right on the northern flank of the bay. And, in Limerick, the place to be is Locke Bar
Locke Bar's water-side tables

The Fish Basket on Long Strand, Castlefreke, Co. Cork, has recently opened here
in what was previously the Puffin Cafe

Have you a personal favourite view over water while dining? If you'd like to share, please use the Comment facility below.

Sunday, April 14, 2019

Two Pinots From De Loach In California


Two Pinots From De Loach In California

De Loach  Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2015, Sonoma County (California), 14.5%, €34.99 
JJ O’Driscolls, Ballinlough; Baggot Street Wines; Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants; Redmonds of Ranelagh;  www.wineonline.ie

Jean-Charles Boisset, of De Loach, has been hailed as being among the “Top 59 Power Brokers” in the wine world by Decanter while Wine Enthusiast has accorded him the title of “Innovator of the Year”.

The Boisset family, with vineyards in Burgundy, have owned De Loach in California since 2003. Jean-Charles immediately noticed the similarities with Burgundy and the potential for producing excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The Boissets recognised that the land needed its health restored. They dug up all the existing vineyards and replanted using biodynamic techniques and produced their first wines in 2010. In addition to De Loach they own these other Californian vineyards (according to Wines of California): Raymond in the Napa Valley and, since 2011, the legendary Buena Vista, the sunshine state’s first and most historic winery.

This Russian Valley Pinot has a delightful mid ruby colour; it shines in the glass. Pleasant aromas of ripe dark and red fruit feature in the nose, mainly cherry and raspberry, and there’s a hint of vanilla there too. Delicious light red fruit flavours, a touch of sweet spice, a bright acidity, very smooth tannins and a long dry finish. No shortage of backbone either but it is soft with a velvety mouthfeel, easy drinking, very enjoyable and Very Highly Recommended. 

The winemaker says the wine, from different clones, was fermented for 16 months in individual lots with native yeasts in open top fermenters, basket-pressed and aged on lees before being blended together and aged for an additional 2 months. They recommend pairing with wood-fired pizza or mushroom risotto.
Fermentors

“Heritage Reserve” Pinot Noir 2016 California 13.5%, €24.99 JJ O’Driscolls, Ballinlough; Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants; La Touche Wines; Donnybrook Fair; Clontarf Wines; The Wicklow Wine Co; La Touche Wines, Greystones; Searsons Wine Merchants; Redmonds of Ranelagh; Lilac Wines; Martins Off Licence www.winesonline.ie

De Loach: As leaders in the world of Pinot Noir, we take special pride in the wines that we produce. Believing that fine wine is “grown” in the vineyard, we crafted this Pinot Noir using fruit carefully selected from premium vineyards throughout northern and central California. This effort helps us achieve the unique balance of delicate Pinot characteristics and the more intense fruit flavors found in the different terroirs that comprise our California Pinot Noir.

The Heritage Collection range is designed to offer superb value and quality for mid-priced Californian wines. The fruit for this Pinot Noir is primarily from the Delta region of California and is it fermented in closed-top fermenters. A small portion is aged in seasoned barrels to impart slight oak characteristics to the wine, but most is kept in stainless steel in order to stay true to the wine’s lighter, food-friendly style.

Colour is light to mid Ruby. Raspberry and cherry feature in the fresh, if modest, aromas. Lovely light red fruit flavours follow, spice too, juicy from start to finish, a hint of sweetness but acidity enough to make it food-friendly, smooth tannins play a role in the lengthy finish of this well-balanced medium-bodied wine. Highly Recommended.

Wednesday, April 10, 2019

Superb Wines from Austria's Judith Beck


Superb Wines from Austria's Judith Beck
Beck Blaufränkisch 2016, 12%,€17.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This organic wine from Austria is produced by Judith Beck from the Blaufränkisch grape, the second most widely grown red grape in the country but not very well-known outside of it.

Colour is quite an intense red. Aromas of darker fruits (plum, cherry). Those dark fruit flavours are intense, spicy too, excellent acidity; tannins have a noticeable grip (nothing too serious though). This inviting medium-bodied wine, vibrant and refreshing, is Highly Recommended.

Since 2007 Judith Beck has produced wines in accordance with biodynamic principles. The winery is housed in an impressive airy new building in the middle of the vineyards from Gols. Now the emphasis is on refining the style whilst capturing the potential of the grapes. Judith is passionate about the traditional red wine varieties: Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. 
Le Caveau say that Judith is an impressively calm, thoughtful person and that sense of relaxation seems to transmit itself into her wines, which possess a lightness of touch not always apparent in this region.  

You can meet her Wednesday 15th May  at The Chocolate Factory, King’s Inn Street, Dublin 1, the venue for the “The Real Wine Fair”, a one-day wine fair celebrating artisan growers who farm organically and/or biodynamically in the vineyard and make wine with minimal interventions in the winery. 



Beck Chardonnay 2016, Burgenland Austria, 12%, €18.95  64 Wine DublinBradley’s of CorkGreenman DublinLe Caveau Kilkenny

Le Caveau, who bring the fabulous Judith Beck wines into Ireland, say the region around Lake Neusiedl is particularly suited to cultivate Burgundy varieties and provides optimum conditions for Chardonnay (most of the Beck wines are red). “Manual harvest, matured for 5 months on its lees, the wine has developed a tasty richness without losing any of its focus and brightness.”

Colour is a light start yellow. Fairly intense fruit on the nose (peach, apple), floral notes too and a mild hint of spice. Lively and delicious, full and creamy, acidity enough, and with a long dry finish. Harmonious from start to finish. Very Highly Recommended.Try with fish or poultry dishes or pasta or on its own.

The Chicken Inn. All about Family and Flavour


The Chicken Inn. 
All about Family and Flavour
Civic recognition for the Mulcahys including
father Jack (left), mother Mary
 and Tim with citation.

The Chicken Inn has been in the English Market since 1955. They started cooking in the 1960s and at that stage a small rotisserie was sufficient to meet a fairly steady Saturday demand, a demand that grew during the summer when the holiday season kicked in and people regularly picked up a cooked chicken for the picnics.

They are still in the English Market of course and now have another base. Just last week, Tim Mulcahy, grandson of the founder John Lane, proudly showed me around their new facility at the Northside for Business Campus in Ballyvolane (just behind the fire station).

As demand for cooked chicken grew, the Chicken Inn bought in a special oven from the UK that allowed them cook slow and on the bone. And that oven has been transferred to Ballyvolane. Tim told me “the antique is going as well as ever”. Right alongside it is a new oven and each is capable of doing 375 chicken crowns at a go, all cooked on the bone by the way, “just 100% per cent meat, nothing added”. 

“Now we can do big orders with more confidence,” says Tim. “But we are not trying to get as much in and out as possible or as quickly as possible. It is still low and slow. We still are at the artisan stage, it is all about the flavour and that takes time and care.” The chicken is succulent. Check it out for yourself before you buy by sampling from the display plate at the market stall. (No retail at Ballyvolane, by the way!).
Ready to roll at new Ballyvolane facility


All about the flavour!
Both ovens cook with steam but in a different way. Water is fed into the new one from the top and directed onto the elements and then the steam is created. The “Antique”, now twenty five years old, uses a water bath to create the steam.

Tim gives huge credit to Denis, the man who oversees the cooking here. “He has been cooking with us for 49 years, has it down to a ’t’. He’s always had the touch and it is second nature to him at this stage”. Denis has seen huge changes during the decades and indeed is now in charge of the paperwork here as well.

And there’s a huge amount of it. Every single batch is tagged on arrival, each box of chicken has a label from the supplier and that label follows that batch all the way through - even gets cooked - to dispatch. And that means that each single chicken’s history (through reception, cooking, chilling) in the facility can be traced if need be. And that means reassurance for customers, both big and small.

“Our customers know what they are getting, they can rely on us. No one else is doing what we are doing. A big customer didn’t want any more plastic so we use greaseproof paper as a simple solution to packaging.” And because of the increased capacity and the increased ability to trace and track, the Chicken Inn has recently been able to secure two large local contracts.
Early days in the market

In the cooked/production area, the air is changed no less than twenty times per minute. You can’t move from one room to another willy nilly. If an opposing door is open, you won’t get access until that’s closed. It’s a bit like queueing to see the Last Supper in Milan. 

Cleaning is a constant. They also use a “fogging machine”. This reaches the spots that other methods can’t access, and it especially useful for fans and motors. And the regulations on hygiene - I had to get togged out with coat, hat and shoe covers - follow the chicken all the way through from inward delivery, through the different areas, to the blast chill (cold in there!) to their chill dispatch area.

New generation. Tim with daughters Judy
and Ali (right) at the Blas prize-giving.
Oh, the Chicken Inn continue to do their own spiced beef and turkey, that spice beef by the way is sold all year round. Tim told me a good yarn: “Only last week, a lady called and ordered, cooked turkey sliced, spiced beef and ham, for a confirmation lunch. And she told me she was going to tell her visitors, some from Dublin, that she’d prepared it all herself!”. Tim mightn’t be getting the credit but he took it as a great compliment!

And do watch out for their new product, which has been a while in development. Their Chicken Bone Broth, made here in a large stock pot in Ballyvolane, is now widely available in Supervalu and also from the market stall.

Tim had a lot of hoops to jump through as he set up the new facility, lots of help too though. “It is getting increasingly difficult, for small producers, to put a place like this together.” He showed me a “blucher drain”. He was quoted close to a thousand euro each and he needed 12! Luckily though, with help, he sourced them for a fraction of the original quote. The Chicken Inn has four people employed here, nineteen in total, 23 reasons to be proud.

Tim has great praise for the Northside for Business Campus, well placed for distribution on the North Ring Road. It is part of the Northside Economic Development Forum’s ‘Growing more than Apples’ initiative.  By working together the stakeholders aim to develop practical initiatives, with tangible outcomes, that support the regeneration of the 3 RAPID areas on the Northside. 

The  Northside Economic Development Forum itself is representative of Cork City Council, Cork City Enterprise Board, Cork City Partnership, Cork Chamber, Department of Social Protection, HSE, PLATO , The Revenue Commissioners, RAPID and the City of Cork VEC ad was set up in 2012 by the Cork City Development Board. Read more here  https://northsideforbusiness.ie/

1955 - John Lane started the stall in the English Market.
1960s - started selling cooked chicken.
1988 - suppliers to Michael Jackson concert in Cork
1992 - suppliers to Tall Ships, Cork
1993 - suppliers to Eurovision Millstreet
2010 - Their Honey Roast Ham won a Gold Star at the prestigious UK awards
2014 - awarded McKenna Guides plaque
2019 - new facility in Ballyvolane.

See Previous article on the Chicken Inn here



Amuse Bouche


Big Momma Sweet made sure she had plenty of women and they all danced and howled and satisfied every lust that money could buy in prelude to the vicious night. Some brought grills in their truck beds and coolers packed with venison and pork and the smell of charcoal and meat wafted in the humid air in breaking grey clouds. Some wandered over to the open-air barn and admired vehicles that they had once owned but had been forced to turn the titles over to Big Momma Sweet to settle their bets.

from The Fighter by Michael Farris Smith (2018). Highly Recommended.

Tuesday, April 9, 2019

Wines from the Edges. Tasmania and the Chilean Coast.

Wines from the edge. Tasmania and the Chilean Coast. 
Pinot Noir and Riesling.


Lo Abarca Riesling 2017, 12.5%, €12.00 Marks and Spencer.

This wine is exclusive to M&S and they call it quirky on the label. It comes from cool climate vineyards in Chile’s San Antonio valley. Here in Casa Marin, the sunny vineyards are cooled by nearby Pacific breezes (the ocean is just a few kilometres away) and that makes them perfect for ripening Riesling grapes with excellent balance.

Wines of South America (2014) described the Lo Abarca area as “unofficial” noting just two producers there, Undurraga and Casa Marin.

This wine has a very light straw colour, tints of green, very clean. Pleasant aromas of circus (lime) and also floral notes. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, yellow fruit plus lime, an impressive natural acidity and a long dry finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Food Pairing 
Winery: Excellent as an aperitif with a delicious fresh ceviche or any type of seafood. Furthermore, it is the best friend for spicy food, like for example a delicious Thai Curry.
M&S: Enjoy this wine chilled with spicy southeast Asian curries or sweet and sour Chinese noodles. 


By the way, in the 2018 awards, Decanter magazine awarded this Riesling its Gold Medal.

Pure South Pinot Noir Tasmania 2015, 13.5%, €16.45 Marks and Spencer

Marks and Spencer say this “this lifted fruit driven style” suits dishes such as pan-fried duck with Asian spices or baked wild salmon. Didn’t do too badly at all with the more accessible (at the time) Christmas turkey. The winery suggests Sushi, charcuterie and lighter red meats.

Colour is the typical light ruby. Aromas are interesting, a little bit savoury, a wee bit smoky, herbs and vanilla too. Bright and vibrant flavours of strawberry, and raspberry and notes of dark cherry combine with a wash of spice to give this elegant wine more heft than you’d expect from the colour. Southern attitude from a very southern latitude gives it a vibrant sense of place.

This one which, according to M&S winemaker Belinda Kleining, has subtle integrated oak to complement the generous red fruitgrew on me. Highly Recommended.


Taste of the Week. “Windvane” Irish Cider


Taste of the Week
The Cider Mill “Windvane” Irish Cider Farmhouse Draught

Another revival (and celebration) of the Irish cider heritage by Mark Jenkinson, the man who brought us the outstanding Cockagee. This Windvane, named after a wind indicator once seen working on many Irish farmhouses, is smooth and rounded, crisp with “the right balance of tannins”. 

The pleasing mid-gold colour draws you in. The rich juiciness of the ripe fruit keeps you sipping and the luscious mellow finish tastes like more. A definite Taste of the Week as was his Cockagee  three years back.

ABV is  5% and, like most Irish craft drinks, is available in Bradley’s of Cork. It comes in a 500ml bottle and costs €4.50. Bradley’s also have the Cockagee.


The Cider Mill
Cornanstown House
Stackallan
Slane
Co.Meath

The web address on the bottle is given as www.thecidermill.ie but it was broken when I tried it at the time of writing.