Ribera Del Duero. Special Land. Special Wines

Ribera Del Duero

Special Land. Special Wines

Tempranillo, in many Irish people’s minds, is the grape of Rioja. And it is. But, now, the bodegas of Ribera Del Duero, all 300 of them operating over 22,400 has of vineyards, are also laying a strong claim to the grape by making some excellent wines with it.

Wine has been produced in this beautiful region since Roman times, though it became well known outside of Spain only in the 1990s. North west of Madrid and south west of Rioja, in the Castilla y León region, the vines grow on a flowing swathe of land that’s approximately 115 kms long and 35 kms wide. 

The vast majority (including Fuentenarro, near La Horra) grow in the province of Burgos but some too in Segovia, Soria (Antidoto, for example) and Valladolid. See the map here. 

Two related factors that make Ribera different are the average altitude of 850 metres and the big variations in summer between the heat of the day and the cool of the night. The heat of the day promotes the ripening, the chill of the night preserves acidity. 

This is a land of sudden storms, dismal winds, intense frosts (often in late spring), a hot (42 degrees in summer, though it can dive to minus 29 in winter) and dry environment. 

But the best wines are often made in extreme conditions, on the edge between possible and impossible, and I think we have two very good examples below, even if neither is a Crianza or Reserva.

Fuentenarro Vendemia Seleccionada, Ribera del Duero (DO) 2011, 14%, €23.70 Le Caveau

This one hundred per cent Tempranillo is from old vines (average age 56 years) grown at 840 metres with organic principles applied. It spends 12 months in French and US oak and a further twelve in bottle (in a cellar 8 metres underground) before release.

It has a very dark ruby colour. Aromas are complex, plum and other dark fruits, chocolate notes too. You find the same dense combination on the palate, spice too; it is soft and smooth, with tannins very much in play and boasts a long and dry finish. Needs food though, venison perhaps! Highly Recommended.

Hernando y Sourdais Antidoto, Ribera del Duero (DO) 2011, 14.5%, €22.15 le Caveau

Again, organic principles are employed and other similarities with the Fuentenarro include old vines, ancient (60 year old Tinto del Pais, the local name for Tempranillo), grown between 750 and 1000 metres.

And yes, Antidoto means antidote, as winemaker Bertrand Sourdais envisages this creation as an antithesis of big heavy “international” style Ribera wines. You’ll find a much more prosaic dictionary meaning on the label. The wine has matured for 12 months in barrels, previously used to make Haut Brion.

The colour is a very dark but glossy red. Aromas are a mix of plum, blackberry and spice. On the palate, it is noticeably very smooth; the plum and blackberry combine, spice again, tannins too (not as obvious as in the Fuentenarro) and a dry persistent finalé. Smooth and elegant, a most delicious “medicine”, and Very Highly Recommended.

You'll note both wines above are 2011. It was a good year!

 JESÚS SASTRE'S GUIDE TO VINTAGES IN RIBERA DEL DUERO

• 2004. “Outrageously ripe”. Reds had low pH and very high alcohol levels, up to 16%”. 
• 2005. “Fantastic vintage, one of the best in the past 15 years with balanced alcohol levels”.
• 2006. “A good, abundant vintage, yet fine and balanced. Relatively early expression but it is coming along well”.
• 2007. “Awful. We suffered hail and then frosts in September.  Out of our top reds we only produced Pesus, which didn’t reach 14.5% of alcohol. Production was very low”.
• 2008. “A very cool vintage, grapes hardly ripened and botrytis was an issue”. No premium reds were made. Their grapes were destined to the Crianza and those usually used for the Crianza went to the entry-level Roble.
• 2009. “Acidity was a bit low, but it was a remarkable vintage”.
• 2010. “Cool, high-acidity vintage but with no botrytis at all. Very good”.
• 2011. “A really great vintage and the very best since 2005”.
• 2012. “A balanced vintage but it didn’t reach the level of the more powerful 2011. Wines were really easy to make and I find our Crianza outstanding”.
• 2013. “Very much in line with 2008, perhaps worse”.
• 2014. “Mind-blowingly good; all the grapes were fine and we had quantity as well; it could be as remarkable as 2005 and 2011”.
• 2015. “Another good, easy vintage for us, perhaps more tannic and less abundant than 2014, but the quality is high”.
• 2016. “Similar to 2015 and to 2006; the wines show good balance”.
• An extra tip: “Vintages finished in ‘7’ have a poor reputation in the area: 1967, 1977 and 1987 were very bad: 1997 was even worse; 2007 was terrible”. Could 2017 break the trend?

This guide is taken from a recent edition of The Spanish Wine Lover. Much more info on Ribera here. 

Taste of the Week. Seymours Biscuits

Taste of the Week

Seymours Biscuits

So you like coffee? Well here is the perfect partner, Chocolate and Hazelnut biscuits from Seymours.

We go the extra mile by freshly roasting the hazelnuts beforehand, using Belgian chocolate chips, stone ground local oatmeal, fresh eggs and butter and a nice splash of bourbon vanilla to finish! Each biscuit is seriously wholesome and the flavours come to the fore when eaten with coffee for those well deserved relaxation moments.

Seymours Irish Biscuits is a family owned specialist bakery producing individually hand-cut biscuit products. Their bakery, in Bandon town,  is about 8km west of their dairy farm from where the fresh milk goes in to making the creamery butter for the biscuits, "imparting a genuine taste difference no other biscuit bakery can match".

That Chocolate and Hazelnut is our Taste of the Week. It is exquisite. But there are quite a few more where that comes from. You can taste the butter in the shortbread and, if you want something really special, try Social Circles. I got mine in Bradley's, Cork, but these treats are available in Ireland, Europe and the US. All the details here. 

Seymours Fine Foods Ltd, 

2 Cloughmacsimon Business Park, Bandon, Co. Cork.

Contact Philip O'Connor 

Land line: +353 21 733 1129

Mobile:       +353 86 330 9378

 

e-mail:  info@seymours.ie

Superb Red and White Double from de Brau

Superb Red and White Double

 from de Brau

The Taris, Gabriel and Wenny, of Chateau de Brau, are too close to the Languedoc ground to get carried way with the romantic cliches that winemakers (and their sellers) use willy nilly. 

They farm in the area of Carcassonne, a town known to Irish holiday makers and rugby followers. It is not sunshine all the way: "Not all vintages are exceptional. There are the weather conditions. And the weeds that we will never overcome. And the little beasts and larger animals who demand their share."

That they share with the little and larger of the local animal world gives you the clue that the work here is more in cooperation with nature than against it. The effort made in the vineyard to obtain healthy and well balanced grapes is thus optimised in the cellar for the vinification and maturing of genuine wines. And it is that effort, and no little skill, that has produced these two beauties. And more.

Domaine de Brau PURE Pinot Noir, Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2015, 14%, €16.60 Mary Pawle Wines

This organic wine is part of the winery’s PURE range, started in 2006. Other single varietals include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah along with Viognier, Egiodola, Petit Verdot, and Fer Servadou. Some unusual grapes there!

It has a lovely ruby colour, a degree darker than usual. Aromas are more raspberry than strawberry, herbal hints too. More like cherry on the palate, a full and generous mouthfeel, tannins still in play as this approachable wine, more supple than some Pinot Noirs, moves to a long finalé.  The Languedoc may not be the usual place for Pinot Noir but this is a winner all the way and Very Highly Recommended.

By the way, love the brevity of the winery's summation: griottes, ample, et généreux. 

Domaine de Brau Chardonnay, Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2011, 13.5%, €16.50 Mary Pawle Wines

This lightly oaked 100% Chardonnay organic wine has a lovely bright gold colour. The aromas are of white fruit, honey and spice notes too. It is rich and round, with an almost creamy mouthfeel; there are fresh tropical fruit flavours in a beautiful elegant wine with a long dry finish. Surprisingly very good indeed and Very Highly Recommended. 

Brook Inn’s Abuzz

Brook Inn’s Abuzz

Salmon starter

Sallybrook’s Brook Inn is busy and buzzy at 6.00pm on a Friday evening. The fact that it’s just after Christmas and the day before New Year’s Eve may have something to do with it and we see quite a few families enjoying the food, and the festive lights, both inside and outside. The place is close to full so just as well that we had booked in advance.

Soon, we are seated comfortably at our table and studying the menus, they have an early Bird as well as the A La Carte. The Early Bird looks like good value but, on this occasion, we go with the A La Carte. 

Hake

We soon have an opportunity to order our drinks. They have some Irish craft beers here and also some Irish gins. I haven't tried the Gunpowder before so I order that and indeed enjoy the gin as the evening goes on.

From a good choice of starters - you may see the menus online here - I pick the Slow Cooked Crispy Pork Belly with Toffee Apple puree, Black pudding, Hazelnut, star anise. 

Duck (and beetroot!)

Mine is well cooked and presented and goes down well and the same could be said about CL’s Citrus Cured Salmon with Pickled Cucumber, Rock Samphire, Pink Grapefruit, Saffron Aioli. Both starters are of a very good standard indeed.

And that standard is maintained as the mains arrive. I'm very impressed indeed with the Crisp Barberry Duck breast with Confit Potato, Beetroot Textures, Spinach, Roast Jus served with a Salad of Pomegranate, Pickles, Pink Grapefruit, Mango, Organic Leaves and Feta Cheese. The spelling may not have been great (it’s Barbary lads!) but it was a terrific mix of flavours, textures and colours!

And the report from the other side of the table is also glowing as CL tucks in to the Pan roasted fillet of Hake with Celeriac Puree, Potato Terrine, Mussels, Samphire, Baby Spinach, Chive Oil, Grilled Prawn, Shellfish Cream, slow roast Tomato. Again well cooked and well presented.

And well served too. We met three or four different servers during the busy evening. All were helpful and efficient and even had time for a chat as the early wave of diners began to make way for the second wave. Very enjoyable experience in a very comfortable venue.

Brook Inn

Sallybrook, Glanmire, Co. Cork

Tel: (021) 482 1498

Web: http://www.thebrookinn.ie/

Facebook: @brook.inn.58

Twitter: @thebrookinn

Hours -

Mon-Thu: 10:30AM - 11:30AM

Fri-Sun: 10:30AM - 12:30AM

Amuse Bouche

Nobody had prepared themselves for what the Munster clubs were capable of delivering. 

They simply didn't know what hit them. The Young Munster supporters would arrive in their thousands…. They'd come into the clubhouse beforehand and set up base camp. They’d have the sandwiches ready and one massive communal picnic would break out. They'd have their pig's feet and a few pints and they'd be saluting everyone. This was a big shock if you were from Wanderers or Lansdowne.

from Donal Lenihan: My Life in Rugby by Donal Lenihan (2016). Recommended.

Exciting White Trio. Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling

Terras Gauda Abadío de San Campio Albarino, Rías Baixas (DO) 2014, 12%, €20.35 Le Caveau

Thought to be related to Riesling and presumably brought by Cluny monks to 12th century Iberia, via France, the recently fashionable Albarino grape is now mainly associated with Rías Baixas in north western Spain. It is also grown in neighbouring areas in Portugal where it is known as Alvarinho.

I was expecting good things in this bottle and I got them, even better than anticipated. Colour is mid-gold, bright and clean and there is no shortage of white fruits in the aromas. On the palate, it is bright and fruity, citrus in the tingle, minerality to the fore, a superb combination overall and that includes the long finish. Ticks all the boxes for a classy Albarino and is Very Highly Recommended.

The producers say it is ideal with seafood, shellfish and fish and especially with Tuna steaks.

Elgin Ridge 282 Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa 2014, 14%, €19.95 Le Caveau

At 282 metres above sea-level, we are at the ideal height to create cool climate Sauvignon Blanc in the Elgin Valley. The organic farming methods give the wine its elegance and unique flavour.

So says Marion Smith, ex Ballyjamesduff, who now runs the winery with her husband Brian. By the way, Dexter cattle, a native Irish breed, figure in the organic farming, grazing between the rows of vines and indeed Marion has the biggest herd of Dexter in the Western Cape.

Dexters aren’t the only “helpers” for Marion and Brian, who planted their first vines here in 2007. They also use Dorper sheep, chickens and Peking ducks to control the weeds and pests. Looks like the combination is working very well indeed.

Colour is a medium-gold with green tints. The aromas are fresh and cool. That freshness extends to the palate, tingly with concentrated white fruit, including gooseberry, citrus also prominent, pepper and spice too and then an excellent finish. Highly Recommended.

Carl Ehrhard Rüdesheim Riesling trocken, Rheingau 2015, 12%, €17.80 Karwig Wines

Grapes are hand-picked and indeed the vinification is focussed on “preserving the natural fruit”. This is facilitated by natural and gentle fining and slow cool fermentation. As usual Carl Ehrhard gets it right.

Colour is pale gold with greenish tints and you'll note micro bubbles clinging to the glass. Aromas are a gentle mix of apple and citrus. It tingles the palate; the intense fruit, now with more than a hint of grapefruit, and a super refreshing acidity combine well all the way to a long finish. This dry wine is Very Highly Recommended. Perfect for aperitif and with seafood and Riesling is regularly recommended for Asian.

The Mare’s Fart and Dirty Dick. All found in Herbarium

The Mare’s Fart and Dirty Dick

All found in Herbarium

Shortly before Christmas I bought the newly published Herbarium by Caz Hildebrand. It covers 100 herbs with text and illustration. The Mare’s Fart and Dirty Dick are among the details

Most of us will know that Pissabed is a common, very common, name for the Dandelion. But it is also called Naked Ladies, Twitch ballock, Hounds-piss, pen-arse, Bum towel and, yes, Mare's Fart.  Its proper name, and this is given for every herb in the book, is Taraxacum species.

And Dirty Dick is one of the names for Fat Hen, also called Lamb’s Quarters, and White Goose. In Latin it is Chenopodium Album and was “the food supplement of primitive peoples”.

Herbs are used in cuisine but also for their curative properties. Got the hiccups? Then get yourself some honeysuckle. A headache? The Meadowsweet is what you need as it contains the key ingredient for aspirin.

And then there’s Alecost, originally very popular in the 16th century and used for flavouring ales and spiced wines. Herb celery is grown for its leaves and speaking of leaves. Ramsoms (Wild Garlic) is a favourite food of brown bears (be careful when foraging!).

It is a fascinating subject, with the odd myth or two. Take Tarragon, for example. If you use it, do so sparingly. Had Catherine of Aragon been less reckless in its use, her marriage to Henry VIII have had endured. At least, that’s the poet Ogden Nash’s version, though perhaps he just needed a word to rhyme with Tarragon! After all, he said “too much Chablis can make you whablis"!

It’s not all fun in Herbarium. Some serious bits. Takes Monkshood for example. This is extremely poisonous, the toxins once used to kill wolves.

And then there’s the Wasabi alarm! It may not wake the dead but, in 2011, a group of chemists won an Ig Nobel Prize for inventing a “wasabi alarm” to wake deaf people, using the herb’s powerful scent!

Each of the 100 herbs in the book has a page of text devoted to it, mostly a general history. Practical information is listed on the side, under four headings: Grow, Eat with, Try, Heal.

For instance (and I’m being very brief here), you are told that dandelion grows freely, Eat them with beetroot, lettuce, bacon…, Try them sautéed as you would spinach, and for Heal, a concoction of dandelion can be helpful for osteoarthritis, acne and psoriasis.

At the back of the book, there is a quick guide with headings such as Wellbeing, Beauty, Symbolism, Flavours, Cocktails (try mint with strawberry, kiwi and rum), Salads, and many more.

Herbarium is colourfully illustrated with each herb having an illustration to itself. The author says herbarium “echoes the history of herbal illustration, but with the intention of taking it forward, achieved by using a contemporary style, inspired by Modernist design, simple geometric forms and vibrant colours. I love the patterns that come through.”

I must say, I love the patterns too. But, beware, while they are gorgeous and striking, they are not necessarily true to life. You’ll definitely need an illustrated growing/foraging guide as well as this lovely and worthwhile book if you are to journey among the herbs.

Herbarium by Caz Hildebrand

Published by Thames and Hudson

RRP £16.95

Taste of the Week. Koko Chocolate

Taste of the Week

Koko Chocolate

Frank Keane, owner and producer at Koko of Kinsale, has a website but you won't get much info there. He is a man that prefers to chat rather than write, though he does "chat", sometimes cheeklily, on Facebook - find him @kokokinsale. 

Francis makes his handmade artisan chocolate in the heart of Kinsale. Also sells "Delicious coffee, teas and most importantly real hot chocolate and our signature chocolate shots". To find out a bit more about Koko, see the article I did about him about a year back.

To find out more about his chocolate, just call to his place on the Pier Road in the town and buy. Just like I did for this delicious Taste of the Week. As you can see, the embedded ingredients, the nuts, the raisins, the orange are all classic with chocolate and you may get this bar in milk or dark versions. I really enjoyed this one and the real treat was the pieces with the orange. Magnificent!

Koko on little break at present; will re-open Friday 13th Jan '17

Koko Chocolate

Pier Road

Kinsale

Co. Cork

Tel: 087 6110209

Email: kokokinsale@gmail.com

Three Classy Reds. Don't judge a book by the cover!

Three Classy Reds

Don't judge a book by the cover. The plain label on the Gamay could well lead you to believe this is a bottom shelf wine whereas it is anything but. Perhaps, especially if you bought bottom shelf Moroccan wines on French holidays years ago, you wouldn't be expecting a great deal from the Volubilia but it is a lovely surprise. And no surprise really with the Italian. You'd expect this to be good and it is very good indeed.

Clos du Tue-Boeuf Gamay 2015, Vin de France, 12%, €18.85 Le Caveau

Light red, fairly typical of the grape, is the colour of this natural beauty. The aromas are of strawberries and raspberries. On the vibrant palate, you'll find the same mix of fruit flavours, with a light tang of cider apples; it is light and fresh and smooth for sure, fine tannins and then a long finish.

The two Puzelat brothers, regarded, by Jamie Goode, as “natural wine royalty”, mature this for 4-6 months in large wooden vats. The organic grapes are bought in from trusted local winegrowers in the Loire. “The wines are quite unique, highly expressive of their terroir, authentic, filled with life and have a very strong personality.” That lively personality is very evident, pleasingly so, in this example and it is Very Highly Recommended. By the way, it is neither filtered nor fined, so do decant!

La Zouina Volubilia Classic Red, Morocco 2012, 13.5%, €22.95 Le Caveau

This is a relatively new French run chateau. Bordeaux know-how plus freedom to experiment has helped produce this excellent result from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Syrah, Mourvedre, and Tempranillo.

Colour is medium red. And the aromas include warm blackcurrant. It is medium bodied, smooth and fresh, well endowed with concentrated berry flavours, medium spice, fine tannins. It is well balanced with a long and juicy finish. A surprise from Africa and Very Highly Recommended.

Ascheri Coste & Bricco Barolo (DOCG) 2010, 14.5%, €47.00 (down to 30 in recent Fine Wine sale) O’Brien Wines

No surprise that this one was good as I had tasted it at the O’Brien Wine Fair in Cork. Nebbiolo is the grape here. Made from two select plots from Ascheri’s single vineyard, this is their top cuvée. 

The wine has spent 26 months in Slavonian barrels, six months in steel and a further nine in bottle before release. According to Grapes & Wines, Italian Nebbiolo ages better than those of California and Australia. And indeed the producers reckon this will last for 18 to 20 years if kept in a cool dark place.

I couldn't wait that long to tuck into this garnet coloured wine. Small red fruits feature in the aromas, also some herbal hints. It has a palate full of rich flavours, spice too and an acidity that helps put all in harmony. This elegant and inviting wine is Very Highly Recommended.

They, Ascheri, recommended matching it with hard mature cheese, pheasant, pigeon, roast lamb and beef, Mediterranean vegetables. I've tried and tested it here with Parmesan and Walnut crusted rack of lamb with roasted vegetables, the lamb bought at our local craft butchers, Davidson’s of Montenotte, Cork.

Thali Nepal Restaurant on the Banks of The Lee

Thali Nepal Restaurant on the Banks of The Lee

Thali Set

 Once upon a time, you could get beef, predominantly beef, at 30 Pope’s Quay, Cork. Then it was known as Gaucho’s in tribute to South American cowboys. These days, you'll find chicken and lamb here; the new name (since the autumn) is Thali Nepal and the menu features the cuisine of that South Asian country and highlights the vegetables, the spices, the rice and no shortage of meat either. But no beef!

Thali Nepal means platter of Nepal so the menu reflects the country, a crossroads of the area, which borders China (to the north) and India (to the south) and is close to Bhutan and very close (just a few miles) to Bangladesh. Many tribes and cultures, (and consequently cuisines) have met and mingled here. 

And the people in Thali are proud to say their menu is genuine: it is "all Nepalese people here", out front and in the kitchen. And we certainly enjoyed our early evening visit last Thursday.

Bheda Ko Jhir

There are Asian favourites on the menu (including Biryani and Chow Mein and Thai Curry) but, helped by Basanta at front of house, we tried to concentrate on the purer Nepalese dishes.

He told us that one of our starters, the Mo Mo, is “an everyday dish” there. We had “five pieces of mouth-watering steamed dumplings, stuffed with minced chicken tossed with ginger garlic paste & served with homemade chutney”. It was indeed delicious, very enjoyable indeed. You may also have this as a main course and you then get 10 pieces.

Newa cuisine is the most celebrated food variety in the country (according to Wikipedia anyhow) and our other starter was called Chicken Newari Sadeko: chicken breast marinated with Himalayan herbs green chilli, red onions, spring onions, ginger, garlic, touch of lime & mustard oil. Served on salad bed. That description is very accurate and we enjoyed (we shared the starters) this light and tangy salad. They also do a lamb version.

Mo Mo

I almost forgot! At the start we were served with some flat breads and three lovely dips. One was a yogurt and mint, nice and cool, and the others got progressively hotter! But nothing over the top; all very tasty indeed. And I also tried a Nepalese beer, the Khukuri, nice and smooth from the bottle.

They have quite a list of main courses and again we shared as best we could. One was the traditional Nepalese Thali Set, a meal made of a selection of dishes. Thali simply means a round platter to serve food. Portions included were rice (bhat), lentil soup (daal), vegetable curry (tarkari), Masu (lamb or chicken), Achaar (chutney). Again the details are spot-on and it was absolutely gorgeous and there was plenty of it. 

We had the chicken in our Masu as we had ordered lamb for the other mains: Bheda Ko Jhir (Lamb Espetadas). This is Cubed lamb flavoured with mild spices, fresh herbs, chopped peppers, onions skewered & cooked in clay oven with rice or naan. It came out sizzling and smoking.  We opted for the naan, as we had lots of rice with the Set. Basanta was very helpful with these little details and so helped avoid "duplications".

Chicken Newari Sadeko

This was a dish and a half. The lamb was tender and full of flavour and the veg was brilliant, the spices mild as indicated. 

Delicious and all as the dishes were, it took us a while to polish off the two of them and there was no room for dessert; not even for coffee. And it was a happy couple that headed out onto the quay as the promised rain began to make its presence felt though with just a few soft and isolated drops. It was a mild night in Cork, maybe not as mild under the shadow of Everest. As you probably know, Nepal (capital: Kathmandu) is home to eight of the world’s ten tallest mountains.

Thali Nepal Restaurant

30 Pope's Quay

Cork

021 4553389

Facebook: @thalinepal

Web: https://thalinepal.com

Hours: 12 noon to 10.00pm seven days.

Amuse Bouche

Keogh invited the three of us to dinner at his home next day…..

Wolfe Tone arrived to join us for a dinner of brisket of beef, roast leg of mutton and boiled cows’ heels, washed down with claret from Lisbon. As secretary of the Catholic Committee, Tone spent many evenings here planning strategy.

from The Star Man by Conor O’Clery (2016). Highly Recommended.