Taste of the Week. Coffee & Walnut Cake

Taste of the Week

Coffee & Walnut Cake

I’m a reasonably regular caller to Mahon Point Farmers Market and there are three particular stalls, more or less together, that I call to (call to quite a few others too!) when I'm there on a Thursday morning. The Woodside Farm and their free range pig products is one; Lennie and his boxes of granola and dried fruits is another. Sandwiched in between is Clare and Gan Gluten.

Clare, whose sisters run the Farmgates (in the city and in Midleton), sells her cakes, breads and savouries here every Thursday and also sells to restaurants, cafes and delis. Why not check out her stall tomorrow? I might meet you there!

Sometimes, I buy one of her savoury pieces, usually for a convenient and very tasty lunch. Sometimes, I feel like sweet. That was the case recently and we went off home with a large tranche of her Coffee and Walnut Cake.

It didn't last too long. It was moist and delicious, full of all the flavours you’d expect from an expert producer and proved to be our unanimous Taste of the Week. A rather short lived one, though! Short and sweet.

Gan Gluten

Gluten and Wheat Free Tarts, Cakes and Savouries

Unit 9, Riverside Grove, Riverstick, Cork.

Tel: 086 2339519

Nash 19. The Real Thing.

Nash 19. The Real Thing.
Local on a Plate

It’s lunchtime Saturday and I'm sitting at a table in the Sternview Gallery at the back of Nash 19 (most of the tables in the front end were full) in Princes Street Cork and looking, admiringly, at a big tempting slice of bacon loin. And my mind goes back about a week when I got a shiny plastic-y slice of ham in a small cafe in Trim. Hard to believe that both came from the same planet, not to mind the same type of animal.

The one in Nash 19 comes from Crowe’s in Tipperary , is big and thick, moist and packed full of flavour, an itegral part of my Eggs Benedict (12.00). It is parked on a mega slice of sourdough that stretches right the diameter of the plate. On top are two perfectly poached eggs and all around there is Hollandaise sauce. A classic combination, top notch produce so well handled, as is consistently the case here, and beautifully presented as well.

Across the table, CL has quite a dish in front of her, again very well presented. It is the Chicken Korma Curry, Basmati rice, Mango chutney and Papadum (13.00). Nothing overly complicated here but the big chunks of locally supplied chicken chicken are key, full of flavour and so tender, great stuff. Had one or two myself from this oh so enjoyable moderately spiced curry.

And speaking of moderate spice, we had each started with a cup, quite a generous size, of one of the soups, the Squash and Ginger (3.50). There was also a bowl option for €5.50. Seafood chowder and a goat's cheese salad were also available as starters and, if you were in the mood, a dozen of Jamie Dwyer’s market fresh Pacific Oysters.

Speaking of markets, the mains list featured a Taste of the English Market (just across the street). For sixteen euro, you could treat yourself to a plateful of meat, fish and cheese, served tapas style. Recommended! Their own recommendations on the day were the Kerry Crab Sandwich and the Nash 19 Cod Fish and Chips. Indeed there is a great selection on a menu that sees some change daily!

And if you feel like more, then you can treat yourself to some of the great local produce at the little shop on the way out. And if you are too busy to dine here, if you need to have lunch in the office, then check out Nash to Go.

As we dined, owner Claire Nash herself was busy handing out samples to and then chatting with a group of visitors led by Alice Coyle of Fab Food Trails but not too busy to check around the restaurant and see how the various customers are doing. And if Claire doesn't get to you at least one member of her superb staff, friendly and efficient, will.

What’s the difference between bacon and ham? I sometimes ask myself. Here are two good guides, the first from James Whelan Butchers, the second from the UK’s Delicious magazine.

Nash 19

19 Princes Street

Cork

+353 21 427 0880

Web: http://www.nash19.com

Twitter: @Nash19Cork

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Nash19Cork/home

Hours

Mon-Fri: 7.30-4.00

Sat: 8.30-4.00

Iron Age Bread. And Butter. Boats & Bones too.

Iron Age Bread. And Butter.

Boats & Bones too.

Prehistoric picnic.

The Medieval Loaf from Declan Ryan’s Arbutus Bread has long been a favourite of mine. Last Saturday, at the Cork Public Museum, Declan introduced me, and quite a few others, to Iron Age Bread. And there was freshly made butter to go with it, all part of Cork Heritage Day.

The event focussed on Life, Farming and Food in South-East Ireland (Waterford and Wexford) in the Iron Age (c. 2500-1600 years ago). Excavations during the Celtic Tiger years and since have revealed important information about where people lived, the crops they grew and the food they ate.

Basket of iron age bread

For instance, the recovery of charred plant components tell us that people ate barley, emmer and spelt wheat and foraged wild food such as hazelnuts and berries. Kilns are a new development of the Iron Age and were used for the drying and malting of grain. Wonder if they made beer?

Cattle and pig bones were also found. The animals were kept for their meat but finds demonstrate that the farmers also practised dairying, hence the butter demo. I have quoted extensively from the leaflet handed out to visitors to the museum.

A young Spaniard checks out these Irish bones

The challenge for Declan Ryan and Arbutus was to reproduce a bread that might have been baked by an Iron Age baker. Declan knew they had barley and some spelt. He used barley mainly and a little spelt. He baked the loaves on the lowest shelf of his oven, a step or two up on what was available to his ancient predecessors.

Crusty, and soft in the middle, the bread had a spicy flavour and possibly tasted better with a bit of the freshly made butter. A very small churn was used to separate the butter from the buttermilk and water and even more of the latter two was squeezed out with a pair of butter paddles before we had the real thing. Young and old got a chance to handle the churn.

A neat little churn

And speaking of hands on, there was a table full of bones of prehistoric animals and the remains of ancient crops and they were popular and there was also the possibility of grinding corn on a prehistoric hand mill, examples too of bog butter (a story in itself) and a replica of an Iron Age vessel (a small boat), the original excavated in County Meath.

The event was presented by the Heritage Council INSTAR funded project ‘Seeing beyond the site - Landscape and Settlement in Later Prehistoric Ireland’, in collaboration with the Cork Public Museum and the Cork Butter Museum, each worth a visit at any time.
You can also follow the South-East project on Twitter at https://twitter.com/Beyond_the_site

Starting to turn - the butter emerges

The new butter and the discarded buttermilk

A pair of paddles is used to squeeze out any excess moisture;
the more solids that remain the better the butter

Amuse Bouche

‘Away from home our fans are fantastic, what I would call the hardcore fans, but at home they’ve had a few drinks and probably their prawn sandwiches and they don't realise what is going on out on the pitch. It’s out of order.’

Keane’s remarks about the prawn sandwiches caused a storm and made headlines for days. It prompted much debate as to whether too much success had made the fans complacent and whether too many fans enjoying corporate hospitality were contributing to the lack of atmosphere at Old Trafford.

from Roy Keane Portrait of a Legend by Stafford Hildred and Tim Ewbank (2007). No recommendation

Rare Cookery Books Workshop – Keith Floyd

Rare Cookery Books Workshop – Keith Floyd. A Taste of West Cork Food Festival Event. Urru Culinary Store Bandon Saturday 10 September 4.30pm

If you love your rare cookery books and recipes and are interested in showing, sharing and seeing other people’s rare books then come join us for a round table show ‘n’ tell workshop.

The Rare Cookery Books Workshop continues this year with a particular focus on Keith Floyd – a one time resident of Kinsale and acknowledged by many chefs as the “Original Celebrity Chef”.

Food writer and Floyd fan, Dianne Curtin will lead the discussion by sharing her books from the era out of which Keith Floyd emerged. Kinsale based chef, Una Crosbie, will also share her memories and books from Keith Floyd.

So, if you are a fan of Floyd or have a rare cookery book or two that you would like to share with like-minded enthusiasts or if you are just curious, then come along, with your books, memories and little stories for an afternoon of chit chat and discovery.

€6 including light refreshment

Booking advised as space is limited.

Contact Ruth for further details and booking 023-8854731 or book on line www.urru.ie

Iyer set to inspire at Waterford Harvest Festival

Iyer set to inspire at Waterford Harvest Festival

From Coimbatore to Cork, Gautham Iyer has nurtured a food philosophy that is from the heart…pure, simple and according to Ayurvedic principles, which derives from the Sanskrit of knowledge of life.

The award winning chef-proprietor of Iyer’s Restaurant in Cork will bring his Brahmin culinary philosophy to Waterford’s La Boheme Restaurant on Sunday, September 11^th as part of the Waterford Harvest Festival menu.

Iyer’s Pop up restaurant will feature a five course meal, using local and foraged ingredients to create authentic Indian dishes with a twist.  

The collaboration came about from a tweet, according to Christine Theze, proprietor of La Boheme Restaurant.

  

“Having been introduced to Iyer’s Restaurant by my daughter when she was studying in UCC, I became a big fan of Gautham and his food and started following him on social media.  The edginess and yet, utter simplicity, of what he does is hugely appealing to me.”

“We messaged each other and last year Eamon Barret and I visited his restaurant.  He is an utterly compelling man, at one with nature and with himself.  His food, Southern Indian vegetarian cooking is outstanding and nothing like we had experienced in the South East.  So we thought, why not bring Iyer’s to Waterford for the Harvest Festival.”

Whilst many of Iyer’s ingredients are imported directly from India, he is an advocate of using fresh local produce and many of his ingredients are sourced or foraged locally, including wild bilberry, forest mushrooms and seasonal vegetables. 

Diners to Iyer’s Pop up at La Boheme can expect to enjoy an array of delightfully subtle Indian dishes, both classics and original creations. 

Iyer’s Pop up at La Boheme Restaurant takes place on Sunday, September, 11^th at 1pm.  Tickets for this five course tasting menu can be purchased in advance from La Boheme restaurant on 051-875645 and cost €39.50 per person.  Places are limited to fifty.

The 8^th Waterford Harvest Festival takes place from Friday, September 9th to Sunday, September 11^th and promises an exciting, eclectic three - day food and fun filled festival with over 100 events, of which 80 of those are free for all the family to enjoy.

To find out more the Waterford Harvest Festival full programme of events is available on www.waterfordharvestfestival.ie. Be sure to keep up to date on all things Harvest Fest by checking it out on Facebook and Twitter #Harvestfest16

Across Northern Spain. On A Red Wine Trail

Across Northern Spain

On A Red Wine Trail

Checking out the Garnacha in Rioja

Let’s take a trip across the north of the Spain and sip a few red wines. We start in Penedes, near Barcelona on the east coast, in the country of the Catalans, and head west to the Basque country (País Vasco).

Maybe you've been to Barcelona. Sitges perhaps? Then you won't have been very far from the vineyards of Albet i Noya. You’ll no doubt have heard of the bulls running and other crazy goings on in Pamplona. Those of you seeking a something a little quieter may well have headed to Santacara, the location where our Marco Real wine comes from.

And if you’ve made it to that vineyard in Navarra, then head west for about an hour and you’ll arrive at Hacienda Grimon which is pretty close to Logrono, the capital of the political area known as La Rioja. The wine area is simply Rioja. Let’s go. Vamonos (Spanish) or Goazen (Basque). Warning: translations by Google!

Albet i Noya Tempranillo, Penedes (DO) 2014, 13%, €14.50, Mary Pawle Wines

Violet is the colour of this Catalan wine and there are subtle aromas of dark and red berries. It is young and juicy and gorgeous, strawberry and raspberry flavours now, good acidity with fine tannins and a dry finish to enjoy.

In Catalonia, at least on the Spanish side of the mountains, Tempranillo is known as Ull de Llebre. This too is on the bottle along with quite a few other Catalan words! You’ll have no doubts about the place where the Albet i Noya wines are made.

Neither will you have any doubts but that they are passionate about their organic wines; they been a pioneer since 1978. “We never measure the effort according to the difficulty. All that matters is the end result and that will only ever be optimal if the whole process is meticulous from the roots up.”

“We believe in what we do and how we do it.” And, so do I! This is one of their basic wines and is Highly Recommended.

Marco Real Finca Corraliza de los Roncaleses, Navarra (DO), tinto 2014, 15%, €15.50 Karwig Wines

Colour of this tinto (red wine) is purple; you’ll note the legs are slow to clear from the glass, a sign that there’s high alcohol here! For the second time, firstly some time back with the 2012 and now with the 2014, I find it hard to agree with the “floral” aromas noted on the label. Seems to me to be more like dark fruit. There you go!

There is quite a body here, fruit and spice plus matching acidity, well-balanced (considering the high ABV), fine tannins and a good long finish. Smooth, elegant and refreshing and Very Highly Recommended. Note the suggested serving temperature below.

Winery info: Wine made with grapes that are hand-picked from the best Garnacha vines, owned by the Belasco Family, at “Corraliza de los Roncaleses” in Santacara. Upon arrival at the winery the grapes are manually selected and then alcoholic fermentation takes place at 23ºC followed by a long maceration of 20 days to endow the wine with optimal finesse and elegance. The wine is then aged in French oak barrels for 5 months. Recommended serving temperature: between 12 and 14ºC.

Hacienda Grimon Rioja (DOC) Crianza 2013, 13.5%, €17.45 Le Caveau

This wine, produced using organic principles (no herbicide, no pesticide, fertiliser is sheep manure and the fruit is hand-harvested), comes from a little known corner of Rioja Alta. It is a 100% Tempranillo, according to the label (other sources suggest a small proportion of Graciano); it has been aged in French and American oak for 14 months (much longer than the regulation six) and there is a pay-off.

It has quite a dark colour, between violet and purple, with aromas of dark fruit, hints of spice. On the palate, there is an immediate appreciation of the soft attack; the wine is smooth and rich, some pepper, fine tannins; balance is perfect thanks to the fresh acidity and this close to full bodied wine is Highly Recommended.

Taste of the Week. Pecorino Vincenzo

Taste of the Week

Pecorino Vincenzo

I love my sheep’s cheese, from the Cratloe Hills of County Clare to the heights of Ossau Irraty in the Pyrenees, not forgetting the superb Crozier Blue. Now I’ve got a new love all the way from the banks of the River Toon in County Cork.

I’ve had a few brief encounters with this Pecorino Vincenzo over the past few weeks and liked it. But the affair got serious when we met again at a stall in Mahon Point Farmers Market last week. This time, I got really stuck in to this amazing hard cheese, our Taste of the Week.

Pecorino is the general name for sheep’s cheese in Italy. But this beguiling Pecorino is made in Toons Bridge by Vincenzo to a family recipe from his native Marche region and is one of a brilliant bunch of cheeses, including Cacio Cavallo and Scamorza, coming from this little country crossroads not too far from Macroom. Vincenzo has a small herd of sheep nearby.

This is the official dairy description: Pecorino Vincenzo is made from raw milk and is a dry cheese suitable for the table and grating. It is sweet and has a little piccante when aged to its limit. It is best around 6 weeks, but this also depends on the size of the wheel.

All a bit mundane really for a cheese with such complex flavours. This is really classy (and priced accordingly).

These cheeses are generally suitable for grating and cooking and, according to the Retailers Guide to the Fine Cheeses of Europe, are particularly good for fondues, omelettes, sauces, soups and sprinkling over savour dishes. I’m finding it irresistible on its own though.

Toons Bridge Dairy

Toons Bridge

Macroom

County Cork

Email: toonsbridgeshop@therealoliveco.com

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ToonsBridge/?fref=ts

Twitter: @ToonsBridge

Tel: 087 3457790 (opening hours only)

Cafe: Fri-Sat 12.30-4.00; Sun 12.30-6.00.

Shop: Fri-Sat 11.00-9.00; Sun 11.00-7.00

The Russell. A Right Royal Venue

The Russell

A Right Royal Venue

After a day “digging” into Ireland's Ancient East, it was time to eat. Headed into Navan, a few miles from our delightful base at Teltown House, and a table in the stylish room at The Russell. Got a warm welcome at the bar and we were soon seated at our table by the window. Sank back into the comfortable chairs and began to study the menu, well the specials mainly.

They have a long and wide-ranging menu here but both our mains came from the night's specials. I picked the Peppered Kangaroo Steak, leeks and fried black pudding, with crispy bacon and red berry jus. It was substantial, didn't expect such a plateful. But, more importantly, it was cooked to perfection. The Kangaroo was a delight, enjoyed the black pudding too and the leeks. Top notch.

Approving noises coming too from the other side of the table where CL was tucking into the Baked Sea-trout fillet with prawns, served with courgette Provençal, and Lemon beurre blanc. Another outstanding special. The trout came to €22.95 while the ‘roo was priced at €24.95.

My starter was another special and was: Crispy Duck Confit with braised red cabbage and balsamic glaze (10.95). You tend to get Duck Confit a lot nowadays, not always great, but this was excellent.

Another popular starter on Irish menus is Goat’s cheese. Their version was that bit different: Warm Apple and Goat's Cheese with crushed walnuts & a Cumberland glaze (8.00). These were both so good and so well presented that jealous eyes were wandering across the table. So a share was in order and all were happy!

Service was great and we had some lovely chats before we left this friendly place. I’m sure the desserts would have been terrific but they had us well fed and all I could manage was a wee glass of port. Sláinte!

See also: Meath and Ireland's Ancient East

Historic Martry Mill on Meath’s Blackwater

Older than the Pyramids: Newgrange and Knowth Ireland’s Ancient East Amazes

The Russell

15/16 Ludlow Street, Navan, Co. Meath

Phone: +353 46 903 1690

email : therussellrestaurantnavan@gmail.com

website: http://therussellrestaurant.ie

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheRussellRestaurant/home

Twitter @TheRussellNavan