Amuse Bouche

‘Away from home our fans are fantastic, what I would call the hardcore fans, but at home they’ve had a few drinks and probably their prawn sandwiches and they don't realise what is going on out on the pitch. It’s out of order.’

Keane’s remarks about the prawn sandwiches caused a storm and made headlines for days. It prompted much debate as to whether too much success had made the fans complacent and whether too many fans enjoying corporate hospitality were contributing to the lack of atmosphere at Old Trafford.

from Roy Keane Portrait of a Legend by Stafford Hildred and Tim Ewbank (2007). No recommendation

Rare Cookery Books Workshop – Keith Floyd

Rare Cookery Books Workshop – Keith Floyd. A Taste of West Cork Food Festival Event. Urru Culinary Store Bandon Saturday 10 September 4.30pm

If you love your rare cookery books and recipes and are interested in showing, sharing and seeing other people’s rare books then come join us for a round table show ‘n’ tell workshop.

The Rare Cookery Books Workshop continues this year with a particular focus on Keith Floyd – a one time resident of Kinsale and acknowledged by many chefs as the “Original Celebrity Chef”.

Food writer and Floyd fan, Dianne Curtin will lead the discussion by sharing her books from the era out of which Keith Floyd emerged. Kinsale based chef, Una Crosbie, will also share her memories and books from Keith Floyd.

So, if you are a fan of Floyd or have a rare cookery book or two that you would like to share with like-minded enthusiasts or if you are just curious, then come along, with your books, memories and little stories for an afternoon of chit chat and discovery.

€6 including light refreshment

Booking advised as space is limited.

Contact Ruth for further details and booking 023-8854731 or book on line www.urru.ie

Iyer set to inspire at Waterford Harvest Festival

Iyer set to inspire at Waterford Harvest Festival

From Coimbatore to Cork, Gautham Iyer has nurtured a food philosophy that is from the heart…pure, simple and according to Ayurvedic principles, which derives from the Sanskrit of knowledge of life.

The award winning chef-proprietor of Iyer’s Restaurant in Cork will bring his Brahmin culinary philosophy to Waterford’s La Boheme Restaurant on Sunday, September 11^th as part of the Waterford Harvest Festival menu.

Iyer’s Pop up restaurant will feature a five course meal, using local and foraged ingredients to create authentic Indian dishes with a twist.  

The collaboration came about from a tweet, according to Christine Theze, proprietor of La Boheme Restaurant.

  

“Having been introduced to Iyer’s Restaurant by my daughter when she was studying in UCC, I became a big fan of Gautham and his food and started following him on social media.  The edginess and yet, utter simplicity, of what he does is hugely appealing to me.”

“We messaged each other and last year Eamon Barret and I visited his restaurant.  He is an utterly compelling man, at one with nature and with himself.  His food, Southern Indian vegetarian cooking is outstanding and nothing like we had experienced in the South East.  So we thought, why not bring Iyer’s to Waterford for the Harvest Festival.”

Whilst many of Iyer’s ingredients are imported directly from India, he is an advocate of using fresh local produce and many of his ingredients are sourced or foraged locally, including wild bilberry, forest mushrooms and seasonal vegetables. 

Diners to Iyer’s Pop up at La Boheme can expect to enjoy an array of delightfully subtle Indian dishes, both classics and original creations. 

Iyer’s Pop up at La Boheme Restaurant takes place on Sunday, September, 11^th at 1pm.  Tickets for this five course tasting menu can be purchased in advance from La Boheme restaurant on 051-875645 and cost €39.50 per person.  Places are limited to fifty.

The 8^th Waterford Harvest Festival takes place from Friday, September 9th to Sunday, September 11^th and promises an exciting, eclectic three - day food and fun filled festival with over 100 events, of which 80 of those are free for all the family to enjoy.

To find out more the Waterford Harvest Festival full programme of events is available on www.waterfordharvestfestival.ie. Be sure to keep up to date on all things Harvest Fest by checking it out on Facebook and Twitter #Harvestfest16

Across Northern Spain. On A Red Wine Trail

Across Northern Spain

On A Red Wine Trail

Checking out the Garnacha in Rioja

Let’s take a trip across the north of the Spain and sip a few red wines. We start in Penedes, near Barcelona on the east coast, in the country of the Catalans, and head west to the Basque country (País Vasco).

Maybe you've been to Barcelona. Sitges perhaps? Then you won't have been very far from the vineyards of Albet i Noya. You’ll no doubt have heard of the bulls running and other crazy goings on in Pamplona. Those of you seeking a something a little quieter may well have headed to Santacara, the location where our Marco Real wine comes from.

And if you’ve made it to that vineyard in Navarra, then head west for about an hour and you’ll arrive at Hacienda Grimon which is pretty close to Logrono, the capital of the political area known as La Rioja. The wine area is simply Rioja. Let’s go. Vamonos (Spanish) or Goazen (Basque). Warning: translations by Google!

Albet i Noya Tempranillo, Penedes (DO) 2014, 13%, €14.50, Mary Pawle Wines

Violet is the colour of this Catalan wine and there are subtle aromas of dark and red berries. It is young and juicy and gorgeous, strawberry and raspberry flavours now, good acidity with fine tannins and a dry finish to enjoy.

In Catalonia, at least on the Spanish side of the mountains, Tempranillo is known as Ull de Llebre. This too is on the bottle along with quite a few other Catalan words! You’ll have no doubts about the place where the Albet i Noya wines are made.

Neither will you have any doubts but that they are passionate about their organic wines; they been a pioneer since 1978. “We never measure the effort according to the difficulty. All that matters is the end result and that will only ever be optimal if the whole process is meticulous from the roots up.”

“We believe in what we do and how we do it.” And, so do I! This is one of their basic wines and is Highly Recommended.

Marco Real Finca Corraliza de los Roncaleses, Navarra (DO), tinto 2014, 15%, €15.50 Karwig Wines

Colour of this tinto (red wine) is purple; you’ll note the legs are slow to clear from the glass, a sign that there’s high alcohol here! For the second time, firstly some time back with the 2012 and now with the 2014, I find it hard to agree with the “floral” aromas noted on the label. Seems to me to be more like dark fruit. There you go!

There is quite a body here, fruit and spice plus matching acidity, well-balanced (considering the high ABV), fine tannins and a good long finish. Smooth, elegant and refreshing and Very Highly Recommended. Note the suggested serving temperature below.

Winery info: Wine made with grapes that are hand-picked from the best Garnacha vines, owned by the Belasco Family, at “Corraliza de los Roncaleses” in Santacara. Upon arrival at the winery the grapes are manually selected and then alcoholic fermentation takes place at 23ºC followed by a long maceration of 20 days to endow the wine with optimal finesse and elegance. The wine is then aged in French oak barrels for 5 months. Recommended serving temperature: between 12 and 14ºC.

Hacienda Grimon Rioja (DOC) Crianza 2013, 13.5%, €17.45 Le Caveau

This wine, produced using organic principles (no herbicide, no pesticide, fertiliser is sheep manure and the fruit is hand-harvested), comes from a little known corner of Rioja Alta. It is a 100% Tempranillo, according to the label (other sources suggest a small proportion of Graciano); it has been aged in French and American oak for 14 months (much longer than the regulation six) and there is a pay-off.

It has quite a dark colour, between violet and purple, with aromas of dark fruit, hints of spice. On the palate, there is an immediate appreciation of the soft attack; the wine is smooth and rich, some pepper, fine tannins; balance is perfect thanks to the fresh acidity and this close to full bodied wine is Highly Recommended.

Taste of the Week. Pecorino Vincenzo

Taste of the Week

Pecorino Vincenzo

I love my sheep’s cheese, from the Cratloe Hills of County Clare to the heights of Ossau Irraty in the Pyrenees, not forgetting the superb Crozier Blue. Now I’ve got a new love all the way from the banks of the River Toon in County Cork.

I’ve had a few brief encounters with this Pecorino Vincenzo over the past few weeks and liked it. But the affair got serious when we met again at a stall in Mahon Point Farmers Market last week. This time, I got really stuck in to this amazing hard cheese, our Taste of the Week.

Pecorino is the general name for sheep’s cheese in Italy. But this beguiling Pecorino is made in Toons Bridge by Vincenzo to a family recipe from his native Marche region and is one of a brilliant bunch of cheeses, including Cacio Cavallo and Scamorza, coming from this little country crossroads not too far from Macroom. Vincenzo has a small herd of sheep nearby.

This is the official dairy description: Pecorino Vincenzo is made from raw milk and is a dry cheese suitable for the table and grating. It is sweet and has a little piccante when aged to its limit. It is best around 6 weeks, but this also depends on the size of the wheel.

All a bit mundane really for a cheese with such complex flavours. This is really classy (and priced accordingly).

These cheeses are generally suitable for grating and cooking and, according to the Retailers Guide to the Fine Cheeses of Europe, are particularly good for fondues, omelettes, sauces, soups and sprinkling over savour dishes. I’m finding it irresistible on its own though.

Toons Bridge Dairy

Toons Bridge

Macroom

County Cork

Email: toonsbridgeshop@therealoliveco.com

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ToonsBridge/?fref=ts

Twitter: @ToonsBridge

Tel: 087 3457790 (opening hours only)

Cafe: Fri-Sat 12.30-4.00; Sun 12.30-6.00.

Shop: Fri-Sat 11.00-9.00; Sun 11.00-7.00

The Russell. A Right Royal Venue

The Russell

A Right Royal Venue

After a day “digging” into Ireland's Ancient East, it was time to eat. Headed into Navan, a few miles from our delightful base at Teltown House, and a table in the stylish room at The Russell. Got a warm welcome at the bar and we were soon seated at our table by the window. Sank back into the comfortable chairs and began to study the menu, well the specials mainly.

They have a long and wide-ranging menu here but both our mains came from the night's specials. I picked the Peppered Kangaroo Steak, leeks and fried black pudding, with crispy bacon and red berry jus. It was substantial, didn't expect such a plateful. But, more importantly, it was cooked to perfection. The Kangaroo was a delight, enjoyed the black pudding too and the leeks. Top notch.

Approving noises coming too from the other side of the table where CL was tucking into the Baked Sea-trout fillet with prawns, served with courgette Provençal, and Lemon beurre blanc. Another outstanding special. The trout came to €22.95 while the ‘roo was priced at €24.95.

My starter was another special and was: Crispy Duck Confit with braised red cabbage and balsamic glaze (10.95). You tend to get Duck Confit a lot nowadays, not always great, but this was excellent.

Another popular starter on Irish menus is Goat’s cheese. Their version was that bit different: Warm Apple and Goat's Cheese with crushed walnuts & a Cumberland glaze (8.00). These were both so good and so well presented that jealous eyes were wandering across the table. So a share was in order and all were happy!

Service was great and we had some lovely chats before we left this friendly place. I’m sure the desserts would have been terrific but they had us well fed and all I could manage was a wee glass of port. Sláinte!

See also: Meath and Ireland's Ancient East

Historic Martry Mill on Meath’s Blackwater

Older than the Pyramids: Newgrange and Knowth Ireland’s Ancient East Amazes

The Russell

15/16 Ludlow Street, Navan, Co. Meath

Phone: +353 46 903 1690

email : therussellrestaurantnavan@gmail.com

website: http://therussellrestaurant.ie

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheRussellRestaurant/home

Twitter @TheRussellNavan

Serve a September Supper for Cork Simon

Make a meal of it this September in aid of Cork Simon

 and people who are homeless

Cork Simon Community is encouraging people to throw a dinner party this September to raise funds in support of Cork Simon’s hefty food costs.  

During the month of September, The Great Cork Simon Supper will take place across Cork with friends, family, co-workers and class-mates coming together to share a meal to help provide healthy, nourishing food for people who are homeless in Cork.

Cork Simon’s annual food bill exceeds €180,000 per year. This provides nutritious food to people staying at and using all Cork Simon services, from the Emergency Shelter and High Support Houses to the Soup Run and Day Centre, every day of the year.  

Commenting on the importance of a solid meal, Tom Cremin, Acting Head of Cork Simon’s Homeless Emergency Support Services said, “wholesome food is one of the essential building blocks to people’s recovery and to rebuilding lives. For most people who come to our door, a decent meal is a distant memory. Before people can even begin to address their experiences, we find they first need the basics - sleep and a nourishing meal – they literally need to build themselves up again.”  

Cork Simon’s emergency support services are stretched to capacity. Since the beginning of this year more people than ever before – an average of 54 people per night - have depended on a Cork Simon emergency bed. Cork Simon’s Emergency Shelter normally accommodates 47 people per night.

Every €150 raised through a Great Cork Simon Supper will provide 50 people who are homeless in Cork with nutritious food for a day.

People are encouraged to host a Great Cork Simon Supper at home, at school and in the workplace this September and are invited to sign up at corksimon.ie/supper. Tips and ideas on hosting a Great Cork Simon Supper, along with downloadable invites and recipes to whet the appetite are also available from the website.

If you need ideas for your supper, help is here, lots of it!

Amuse Bouche

As food got scarcer, Ernest Hemingway, who reached Madrid in March 1937, consolidated his popularity by dint of the inexhaustible store of bacon, eggs, coffee and marmalade, whisky and gin, that he kept in his room at the Florida. International Brigade volunteers were always welcome and would always find plenty of bottles and tinned food. His stocks were both replenished and distributed by his faithful crony, Sidney Franklin, the American bullfighter…

From We Saw Spain Die by Paul Preston (2008)

Holy Smoke! Holy Water and Holy Fruit too.

Holy Smoke!

Holy Water and Holy Fruit too.

Couldn’t make it to the Big Smoke for the Big Grill in Dublin this week where local chef John Relihan was taking a leading role. But there was considerable consolation when I visited John’s local, Holy Smoke in Cork's Mardyke complex. Lots of smoked meat, Holy Fruit too for dessert and Holy Water and unholy beer (Punk) as the evening unfolded.

They don't really go in for starters here. True, there are few things to nibble but I usually go straight to the beef. Or the pork. Or the chicken. You can get some massive tray-fuls here. The largest is the BBQ Blowout (€24.50). You’ll get Brisket Burnt Ends, Dry Rubbed Baby Back Ribs, Pit Smoked BBQ Chicken, and Pulled Pork. Mega stuff. Great for a family to share or a group visit. Not too many will manage one of these on his or her own!

You’ll notice different woods on the menu here and that's because each wood has different flavour compounds. As well as the big trays, you may try the individual meats Pork, Beef, and Chicken. And Burgers too.

The Big One!

Oh, by the way, John Relihan and Holy Smoke are committed to the “sustainable sourcing of produce”. “Where possible, all of our ingredients and supplies are carefully selected from handpicked Irish producers and suppliers. We do everything we can to ensure the highest level of food provenance from field to fork.” Good to hear. I like it like that!

And what will you drink with that? There is a varying list of craft beers available, some on tap, more in bottle, and they have a direct line to Porthouse! There is even a list of cocktails and then a good selection of spirits: whiskey, bourbon, gin, vodka, tequila. And some wines too.

Beers

Beer was our choice the other night. I got a pint of Brewdog’s Punk IPA on draught and CL enjoyed her bottle of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (a beer that I rather liked myself, based on a limited, very limited, sample!).

Still, my Brewdog and some of that Holy Water went well with my twelve euro Burger, the Juicy Lucy, grilled over a sweet mixture of beech, chestnut and oak charcoal. I got a 6 ounce burger with a Gubbeen cheese core, grilled onions, mixed lettuce and beef tomato, served with naked slaw, and pickles.

Meet Lucy

 CL went for the Real Deal, also twelve euro. This is pulled pork smoked slow and low mixed with their own BBQ sauce, topped with just slaw and served with naked slaw and pickles. By the way, you get a choices of sides, so, from their Sideshow, we shared their Pit-smoked Beans and also the Skinny Fries.

Both burgers were delicious, great combinations of textures, tastes and flavours, and both sides were much appreciated as well. Really top notch burgers and the beers weren't bad either!

Desserts? Yes please. Always have time and room for their Holy Fruit. That too has been on the grill but we’d prefer it warm rather than this week’s cold version. Overall though great stuff and an enjoyable visit, made even more so by the lively, chatty and efficient service from start to finish.

Holy fruit

Holy Smoke 

Little Hanover Street, Cork

Phone: (021) 427 3000

email : holysmokecork@gmail.com 

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/HolySmokeCork/

Twitter @holysmokecork 

Wed-Thu:

5:00 pm - 10:30 pm

Fri:

5:00 pm - 11:30 pm

Sat:

4:00 pm - 11:30 pm

Sun:

4:00 pm - 10:00 pm

Hel-loo fella