Taste of the Week. Woodcock Smokery Tuna

Taste of the Week

Woodcock Smokery Tuna

On a recent visit to the Woodcock Smokery in Castletownsend, smoker Sally Barnes gave me a piece of her Albacore Tuna to bring home.

It is really amazing; looks as if Tuna is meant to be smoked. Maybe, meant to be smoked by Sally. “It is hot smoked. Our tuna are guaranteed line-caught and are certified by Friends of the Sea.This is a tuna unlike any you have ever tasted. It's a succulent meaty bite with subtle smoke and ocean tastes”

I think that last sentence really sums up our Taste of the Week. We used it in a version of a Salad Niçoise and it was delicious. By the way, if you are looking for Anchovies, you can get very reasonably priced tins in O Português  in McCurtain Street.

Sally uses only wild fish, quite a variety of them, and her products are much sought after by top chefs. And you may read all about her operation here.

Woodcock Smokery

Gortbrack

Castletownshend

Skibbereen

County Cork

Ireland

Telephone: 028 36232 (Ireland)

00 353 28 36232 (International)

You may order online from Sally. Check the products and the prices here.

Cheesemaking Buzz at Toons Bridge. Café And Shop. And A Pizza Oven

Cheesemaking Buzz at Toons Bridge

Café And Shop. And A Pizza Oven

Franco, the maestro, ready to rock 'n roll

It is around noon on Friday and Franco gives the signal. No big noise then but you can feel the creative buzz as the three-man crew swing into action making Mozzarella in the gleaming Toons Bridge Dairy. Amazing to see the trio work from the big floppy cubes of curd.

First the cubes are mechanically diced, then Franco gets his hands on it - the skilled hands of a fourth generation Italian cheesemaker who’s been making cheese since he was eleven - manipulating the curd in a steaming vat (hot water is being piped in), stretching it to almost unimaginable elastic proportions, then after a little draining off, he hands it on and soon from the little machine opposite emerge those gorgeous little balls.

Awaiting their turn to get to market - Cacio Cavallo mainly.

We are offered a taste. We chew the sample; it is like a milky “meat”! No salt yet. Brineing, a strong one for a short spell (an hour or so), and then it goes into its “transport brine”, the one you’ll see in the stalls the very next day. Toons Bridge Mozzarella is the freshest in Ireland,” says our guide Ronan. “Made today, on sale tomorrow.” Indeed, if you call to their cafe next door, you could well be eating your freshest ever! Some of the whey, by the way, is retained in the dairy and used as a starter for the next batch

We’ll get to the café soon but first there’s much more cheese to be seen and tasted. With no fresh buffalo milk available to them anymore, Toons Bridge have creatively filled the gap by adding a string of gorgeous Italian style cheeses to their range.

Cacio Cavallo

Recently, we featured their Cacio Cavallo as Taste of the Week. They actually make four versions of this cow's milk cheese. Cacio Cavallo can age marvellously, turning the soft, rubbery paste hard and flinty that it needs to be broken in shards. The flavours can be huge, as they harness all of the various raw milk bacteria to ripen the curd.

Franco tolds me that they use a kid rennet (in a paste form) for the Piccante version and also in their Pecorino (we’ll get to that later). He reckons it enhances the fermentation, leading to better flavours. They also do a Mesophilic version. No starter culture at all is used, just a natural slow fermentation of the milk. The result is reminiscent of traditional English cheese such as Caerphilly or Cheshire.

The curd, before it is diced into much smaller pieces

Lots of new words to be learned around here. Another is Scamorza which is a simple stretched curd cheese that is hung (you can see the mark of the string) for a short period of time to air dry. It is similar to mozzarella and melts well. It is sweet and delicate. They do both smoked and unsmoked versions and I must say I enjoy the smoked one (great when stuffing those big flat mushrooms). Pier 26 in Ballycotton have it on their cheese plate.

They also do Halloumi and Ricotta (try with Highbank Orchard Syrup). And then there’s the Pecorino Vincenzo.  Pecorino is the general name for sheep’s cheese in Italy. This pecorino is made in Toons Bridge by Vincenzo to a family recipe from his native Marche region.  Vincenzo has a small flock of sheep nearby and they make this gorgeous Pecorino right here. Another must try from this rural hub of creativity. If you want more details on the cheeses, please click here.

Pecorino

 Time now for lunch in the sun. After all the cheese tasting, we decided on something different.  Most of the staff were getting their pizzas, topped with Toons Bridge cheese of course! Friday is a nice relaxing day here.  Both of us started with a Hummus Plate (two types of hummus, with basil pesto, olives and flat breads from the pizza oven). Substantial and delicious.

The counter was lined with attractive colourful salads (quite a few in the shop for takeaway as well) including Pearled barley, harissa, carrot and dill; pesto, potato and pea; beetroot, quinoa and chickpea, with balsamic dressing; two potato and mint. You could pick any three plus salad leaves for nine euro. We each did just that and enjoyed them in the sun in the garden. Meat Boards and Tapas Plates were also available as were of course the pizzas. Lots of soft drinks too, including my Elderflower cordial, wines by the glass and local beers.

The old stumps - there are 100s-
in The Gearagh

It was a delightful interlude, the lunch well earned we thought! Earlier, after the short drive down from the city we took the familiar R584. This is quite a road if you have time on your hands. Even in a short space, you can call to the Prince August Toy Soldier Factory (a must if you have kids), The Gearagh and Toons Bridge.

Our first stop was at the nearby Gearagh, the only ancient post glacial alluvial forest in Western Europe, a beautiful spot, great for a walk through bushes and trees and wild-flowers and the stump-strewn waters on both sides of your path. Click here for the Discover Ireland listing and a short paragraph of info on this remarkable place.

Looking into the cafe, from our table in the garden;
we were early, the place would soon be full.

 If you want to continue on the R584, there are many more stops to make (including Gougane Barra, Keimaneigh, and Carrigass Castle) before you get to Ballylicky and a stop for refreshments at Manning’s Emporium. For more on the R584, check my post The Many Attractions of Driving the R584

But last Friday, we settled for The Gearagh and Toons Bridge Dairy and Cafe. Well educated and well fed, we headed for home and a sunny afternoon in the back garden!

Hummus

Three salads

The Gearagh

Walk through The Gearagh

Take a break!

Ballycotton: Bites And Boats. Even Goats!

Ballycotton: Bites And Boat.
Even Goats!

Goats and Gulls on the lighthouse island

Very enjoyable visit today to the Seafood and Shanty Festival on the pier at Ballycotton. We got there early, just in time to catch the boat for a trip around the lighthouse island. The lighthouse staff, now long gone from the island, used keep goats. There are seven up there now, up with the gulls. The building under the lighthouse, in the picture below, was the last building and such an improvement on the previous quarters that it became known as the Ballycotton Hilton. Great trip for a fiver.

Ballycotton Island, the side facing the sea.

Bill Casey's smoked salmon presented by
Ballymaloe Cookery School

Back on dry land, it was time for lunch and quite a choice around the pier. Some inviting things as you might expect on the Ballymaloe Cookery School stall and we started with some of their chicken liver pate and some smoked salmon, both on brown bread. Main course was the Fish and Chips by local restaurant Pier 26, great value at six euro. Also got some sushi for later on this evening from Okawari. Dessert would have to wait a while and mine came in the shape of a slice of Plum and Pistachio Cake when we called to meet friends at the lovely SPP cafe in nearby Shanagarry. There was also the small matter of a carton of Wexford strawberries from a roadside stall in Midleton!

Fish & Chips by Pier 26

Had been thinking that there might be traffic problems in and out of the village. But the folks down there know their business and, with their directions and just a little patience, we had no problem at all, either on the way in or out. Well done to all behind the festival, a big thumbs up from this quarter.

Watch out for these
at Wilton Market

Big Girls

Rachel Allen has had more impressive sets.
But she herself was impressive as always,
tossing away a couple of bad avocados in her stride.

Pistachio and Plum cake at the
delightful Stephen Pearce Potter Cafe, SPP Cafe in Shanagarry

Amuse Bouche

He remembered him with a wearied but amused affection: there was the time Litvinoff dyed all his shirts pink in the bathtub and then climbed in and dyed himself pink too; the time they went to a restaurant and he ordered his dinner in reverse, beginning with a syrup pudding; the times when he disappeared leaving Whidborne to clear up his chaos.

from Jumpin’ Jack Flash by Kieron Pim (2016)

Get Your Fish. At Pier 26

Get Your Fish At Pier 26

Plaice and crab..

It’s a sunny Sunday, the final one in May; the beauty of Ballycotton is enhanced. And a delicious lunch awaits in friendly Pier 26.

But first a little walk, down the steps to the bottom of the cliffs, a sun trap and a great view of the cliffs themselves, of the nearby island and the lighthouse. All this, right on our doorstep.

Just as well we had booked ahead as most of the restaurant has been block booked by  a christening party. A warm welcome and soon we were studying the menu and a packed specials board. We had expected fish and that board was full of it: John Dory, Haddock, Hake, Plaice, Scallops, Squid, and Gurnard.

Vanilla roasted peaches

CL picked the Pan fried John Dory, carrot purée, tender stem broccoli, garlic and thyme roast potatoes, seaweed butter. An excellent dish, even if the carrot was missing, its absence noted about halfway through!

How many people check their dishes as they arrive to see if every element is present? In any case, we go out to enjoy the food as a whole, not to study every little detail. I fully agree with the well known Rhone winemaker who has said: “Two people talk about love, the poet and the gynaecologist. I prefer the poet.”

And enjoyment was also the operative word as I tucked in to my Poached Plaice, organic spinach, crab, fondant potato, sea vegetable cream (they do a fair bit of foraging here!). An superb combination, so well presented and enthusiastically dispatched, along with a glass of the rare Pazos De Ulloa blend of Torrontes, Treixadura and Palomino. Our other glass was from Australia, Berri Estates unoaked Chardonnay, another refreshing wine.

Top cheese

The dessert list is short enough but full of quality and we got two very good ones indeed. One was the divine Vanilla roasted peaches, Elderflower syrup, lemon Thyme, Madagascar Vanilla ice-cream, Almond brittle.

And the cheeseboard was highly impressive, billed simply as Selection of Irish Artisan cheese, Honey, oatmeal biscuits, Cockburns aged port. The drop of port and the little jug of honey were accompanied by Gubbeen, Toons Bridge smoked Scamorza, Bandon Vale Cheddar and the creamy Cashel Blue and those biscuits were quite a treat as well.

Took our time with that lot. And then it was out of the shade and into the sunny paradise outside, a short stroll down to the pier itself to get a different view of the lighthouse and take in the activity (not too much of that, aside from a few swimmers) on the pier. It will be much different this coming Sunday when the annual Seafood & Shanty festival takes place!

Pier 26

Ballycotton

County Cork

Tel: (021) 206 1449

Email: pier26restaurant@yahoo.com

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pier26restaurant/?fref=ts

Twitter: @Pier26cork

Hours

Wed-Thu:

5:30 pm - 8:30 pm

Fri-Sat:

5:30 pm - 9:00 pm

Sun:

12:30 pm - 7:30 pm

Casa Silva Wines Impress At Jacques

Casa Silva Wines Impress At Jacques

No water? No problem to Casa Silva at Paredones 

Don’t particularly want to be anywhere else during this current spell of warm sunny weather but offer me a stay at the guesthouse in the Chilean winemaker Casa Silva and I wouldn't hesitate.

It is best best known for its Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc but, having sampled five of their wines in Jacques in a very convivial tasting last Tuesday, I'll be adding Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to the list!

David Prentice, Casa Silva’s European Commercial Director, was our host at Jacques and we soon had their delicious unoaked Chardonnay in hand. It may be their “entry level Chardonnay” but this comes from one of the country’s top producers and is well worth seeking out. You may get it for €12.50 at www.winesoftheworld.ie.

Two Cool from Paredones

David said: “We prefer to make the wine mainly in the vineyard. No oak here as there’s no need for it. The vineyard is 25km from the coast, cool at night and there is a short hot spike during the day, ideal conditions. Yield here is very close to that of Chablis.”

Five generations - a 6th on the way - show that Casa Silva is a family affair. “The first generation brought their vines from Bordeaux, in 1892! And the aim is to keep the business within the family. Seventy year old Mario Silva has dedicated much of his life to recovering the old vineyards and wine cellar and has acquired a unique understanding of the terroir in the Colchagua Valley.  He still works every day, still checking, still tasting.”

In Chile, you can find a micro-climate for virtually any grape. The long narrow country has the Andes to the east and the ocean to the west, desert to the north, ice to the south and, in between, there is a great diversity of soils and climate.

 Our next wine was the Sauvignon Blanc 2015 reserva and that went down very well indeed. By the way, David emphasised that they use natural local yeast in the majority of their wines.

They are not afraid to be brave. The grapes for the second Sauvignon Blanc, the terrific Cool Coast 2013, came from the Paredones vineyard, in an area where no vines had been grown previously due to lack of water. But Casa Silva pumped the water up from the river (filled by winter rains) and that storage “lake” is the centerpoint of the beautiful vineyard, now earning quite a reputation.

Here there is “granite, older than the Andes” and this Sauvignon is “more chiselled”, “more friendly than New Zealand counterparts, intense aromas, refreshing acidity. Paredones is very interesting,  has a great terroir, ideal temperature range (23 by day, 8 by night).”

And there was further proof of that with the next bottle, the Cool Coast Pinot Noir with its red robe that bit deeper than you’d expect, its inviting aromas of raspberry and strawberry, excellent balancing acidity, refreshing flavours and long finish. Very impressive indeed.

Such has been the success of this new vineyard that one or two other wine producers are now moving into the area. Los Lignes is another famous Casa Silva vineyard and the source of our final wine, a top notch 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon. “The Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon planted here reach extremely high quality with unique character.” We could see that in our glass! Superb. The Carmenere is now on the wish list.

David Prentice (left) with Yours Truly

And with all that acidity and freshness calling out for food, the kitchen in Jacques stepped up to the plate, as they always do. Our first dish was Goats Cheese with Rhubarb and Orange on Toast, the second Fresh Crab and apple in lettuce, the finalé a terrific slice of rare beef, complete with potato, horseradish cream and a surprising smoked tomato!

So thanks to Casa Silva, to David, to Kate Barry and her crew from Barry Fitzwilliam and to the 38 year old Cork restaurant for a very informative and relaxing evening of good wine and food. Don't forget to check out the Casa Silva wines at www.winesoftheworld.ie, in your local restaurant and in selected off licences

Mrs. Brown’s Boys ‘Winnie McGoogan’ Joins The Mayor's Hooley

Mrs. Brown’s Boys ‘Winnie McGoogan’ to join County Mayor for charity Hooley

Micheal Sheridan, Mercy University Hospital Foundation,
County Mayor Cllr. John Paul O’Shea and Angela Horgan, Pieta House Cork  at the launch

~ Actress and Author Eilish O’Carroll of Mrs. Brown’s Boys fame has graciously accepted an invite from County Mayor, John Paul O’Shea to be Master of Ceremonies for his upcoming charity event ‘Hooley in The Hall’ taking place next month.

County Mayor Cllr. John Paul O’Shea is set to mark the end of his term as Mayor of the County of Cork by hosting a “Hooley in The Hall” and in aid of Cork charities, The Mercy Hospital Foundation and Pieta House, and it has just been announced that comedienne, actress, performer and writer Eilish O’Carroll (of Mrs. Brown’s Boys fame) will take up the mantle of Master of Ceremonies for the evening.

The summer charity event will take place at County Hall, Cork, on Friday June 17th, and is kindly supported by The Kingsley Hotel, part of The Fota Collection.

Shaping up to be one of the biggest charity events of the summer, the Hooley in The Hall will be hosted ​by one of Ireland’s best known and most loved faces, Eilish O’Carroll, and have a line-up of awesome blue grass and Cajun sounds from ‘Ray Barron & Friends’ (of Two Time Polka) and the hugely popular ‘The Whole Hog Band’. The night is perfect for groups of friends and neighbours, that office night out or just an excuse to don a Stetson, break out those blue jeans and strut your stuff.  With finger lickin’ homemade BBQ, the Mayor’s Moonshine, fun games and DJ ‘til late, the evening is set to raise the roof while raising funds for The Mercy Hospital Foundation and Pieta House, Mayor John Paul O’Shea’s chosen charities.

Eilish is easily recognised for her work on her Brother Brendan’s hit TV show, Mrs Brown’s Boys. Since the late nineties she has embodied the character of lovable neighbour, Winnie McGoogan and endeared herself to the nation as a bit of a national treasure. Despite the multiple recordings, stage productions, and even the filming of Mrs Brown’s Boys Da Movie, Eilish has achieved her own separate success in Snap, Sparrow’s Trap and a short film called Noreen, as well as having penned and performed her own one-woman award winning show called ‘Live Love Laugh’.  Although hailing from Dublin Eilish is now settled in Castltownshend, West Cork and has become an adopted resident of Cork County, which made her a great choice for the role. 

Speaking in advance of the Hooley in the Hall Eilish said “Cork has always been so welcoming to me, and so to be asked to MC this event is an honour. Immediately the country theme struck me, my inner performer can’t wait to get involved and encourage fun in aid of such worthy causes. Pieta House does marvellous work, as too does The Mercy University Hospital Foundation, so I absolutely can’t wait! My thanks to the Mayor for inviting me to be a part of the night.”

Kicking off at 7.30pm, the whole ground floor of County Hall will be themed in a country-style, with the freedom to mill about the food and drink stations, join in the dancing with a lively DJ who will take the reins from midnight. Tickets for the whole evening, including all of the above unique and memorable entertainment, are priced to please at just €40 per person.

Speaking of today’s announcement Mayor of the County of Cork, Cllr. John Paul O’Shea said ‘A comedienne in her own right, musician, actress and writer, Eilish O’Carroll has been a tv personality many of us turn to at the end of a long day to make us laugh. When considering who I wanted to MC the Hooley in the Hall, marking the end of my term as County Mayor, there was no doubt Eilish would be a great fit. Pieta House and the Mercy University Hospital Foundation see so much sadness and darkness; I knew Eilish would be ray of light to shine through. It is my joy and pleasure to announce today that she has accepted our invitation and will be present to entertain and guide us through the night'​

Cork’s Pieta House will put all funds raised towards continuing to provide a safe place for people who are in suicidal distress and/or self-harming. ‘The Hooley is our ideal opportunity to support these two organisations in the good work they do for the people of Cork while having a great night out with our colleagues, neighbours and friends. Everyone’s welcome!’ said the Mayor. 

Mayor O’Shea went on to acknowledge the continuing outstanding support of The Kingsley Hotel, part of the Fota Collection as main sponsors, stating:  ‘The team at The Fota Collection have demonstrated an outstanding commitment to this and several other worthy causes in Cork and County since their arrival in the region and they are to be congratulated on their willingness to row in behind good causes with such graciousness’.

You can purchase your tickets for the Hooley in the Hall at reception in The County Hall, at any of the Council’s eight Municipal District Offices or through the Mercy University Hospital Foundation website www.mercyfundraising.ie/hooley-in-the-hall. You may also e-mail mayorshooley@corkcoco.ie or call Edel (Howard) Bodie on (021) 4285367 for tickets. Group bookings most welcome.

Tickets are also available countywide in the Cork County Council Municipal offices in West Cork (028-21299), Bandon/ Kinsale (021-4772154), East Cork (021- 4631580), Ballincollig/Carrigaline (021-4285352), Cobh (021-4811307), Fermoy (025-31155), Blarney/ Macroom (026-41545), Kanturk/Mallow (022-21123)

A special overnight rate for the night of the Hooley is available at The Kingsley Hotel (just across the road from County Hall) - €145 based on 2 sharing, including breakfast.  Bookings to: www.thekingsley.ie – special event packages, or call 021 4800500.

Press release

Taste of the Week. Toons Bridge Cacio Cavallo

Taste of the Week

Toons Bridge Cacio Cavallo

In the Big Shed during LitFest16, I met Toby of Toonsbridge Dairy with two big rounds of cheese over his shoulder, one to the front, one to the rear. “I’m like the horse,” he joked. And, having read a piece on their website a few days earlier, I knew that he was talking about his Cacio Cavallo, now our current Taste of the Week.

It is a cow's milk cheese, made in Toons Bridge by their Italian cheesemaker Franco.  Translated it means "horse cheese", as it is traditionally tied in pairs and transported to market by pack horse. No horse in the Big Shed at Ballymaloe so Toby took over! That’s what stallholders do.

Cacio Cavallo is the cheese of Southern Italy. It is, like mozzarella and scamorza, made from raw milk with the addition of whey starters. It is ripened and, when ready after some hours, stretched in boiling water.

We bought a big slice - it is cut on the length from the five or six kilo round - and enjoyed every bit. Cracks appeared on the paste and it comes away in soft slivers, beautiful and creamy. You’ll read that the Piccante version - one of  our Toons Bridge versions - has a spicy background but it is quite mild.

Must try the Dulce version, as it looks very much like the Spanish Tetella.

Toons Bridge Dairy

Toons Bridge Macroom Co Cork

Contact:

087 3457790 (texts work as well)

or by email toonsbridgeshop@therealoliveco.com

Toons Bridge cheeses at Ballymaloe Litfest16