Amuse Bouche

Édouard Manet boarded the new direct train from Paris to Madrid one summer’s evening in 1865. The uncomfortable journey took a day and a half. He stayed in the Grand Hotel de Paris, supposedly noted for its French cooking, though Manet found the food so inedible he sent every dish back….  ..the overwhelming reason for this hazardous pilgrimage, taken during an outbreak of cholera and without a single Spanish word, was to set eyes on the art of Velázquez.

From The Vanishing Man (in pursuit of Velázquez) by Laura Cumming (2016)

Mulcahy’s Kenmare. Superb Food On Main Street

Mulcahy’s Kenmare

Superb Food In New Main Street Venue

Halibut

Sit yourself down on one of those high-backed leather chairs and study the menu. You could be in a capital city but just outside is Main Street, Kenmare, Co. Kerry and you are in the new ultra comfortable Mulcahy’s Restaurant.

You've admired the new curved bar on the way on, maybe you’ve stopped for an aperitif. But now it is time to make your choices. And don't forget the specials. As you choose, some gorgeous breads are delivered to the table, along with a Green Olive Tapenade, good butter too of course.

Sausage of lobster and prawn

And before you get to the starters, there is an amuse bouche. This evening, we get a goats cheese and beetroot creation, a few little spoonfuls of deliciousness. I put that little spoon to more good use too, finishing off the tapenade that wouldn't fit on the bread!

For a starter this evening, from the specials board,  I could have picked the Braised Beef, white onion, puréed mushrooms, and bone marrow. I know one customer who did and his tweet was ecstatic! I picked a good one too: a Boudin of Lobster and Prawn. Quite a “sausage”, with a delicious sauce! Our other starter, also from the specials, was Scampi with Marie Rose sauce.

Pork Belly

The main courses were something else. Halibut is a gorgeous fish but here it is quite a treat, served with mussels, bacon and clam cream. My choice here was Pork Belly served with Salt Baked Celeriac, Chorizo and puffed crackling, another gem. The mains are accompanied by perfectly cooked vegetables: crunchy sugar snap peas, a smooth mashed carrot with cumin, and croquette potatoes.

Fairly full after that lot, even though the pace had been relaxed all through. Service was excellent as well, friendly, informative. They couldn't persuade us to take dessert though but I did enjoy a sweet finalé thanks to a wee glass of their Crasto LBV Port, elegant, sweet and spicy, a more than able substitute for the listed but unavailable Warres. So it was with a nice warm feeling that we left the new house of Mulcahy. Very Highly Recommended.

Mulcahy’s Bar & Restaurant,

Main Street, Kenmare,

County Kerry

064 6642383 or 087 2364449

Our Table Is Back With A BAM. Midsummer Festival unveils spectacular 2016 programme.

Cork Midsummer Festival unveils spectacular 2016 programme

Our Table Is Back With A BAM

 

Our Table - a 2015 Highlight

Cork Midsummer Festival launched its spectacular 2016 programme of events  last evening. The city will become the stage for more than 400 artists and 39 events across seven days in June. Festival goers will have a choice of 29 different unique and unusual venues at the Festival which runs from 17-19 June, 24-26 June and on Midsummer, June 21.

Over 50,000 people are expected to attend the diverse array of events. Performances and events will take place at some new and unexpected locations, such as the Bells of Shandon, Cork Boat Club and Elizabeth Fort. For full details and tickets visit www.corkmidsummer.com.

The 2016 programme includes 18 brand new works and is a fusion of opera, literature, theatre, dance, comedy, music and visual art. Family events, forums, talks and a wide choice of free events will also take place. Cork Midsummer Festival is proudly supported by the Arts Council, Cork City Council and Fáilte Ireland.

Speaking ahead of the launch, Cork Midsummer Festival Artistic Curator Kath Gorman said: “As Cork Midsummer Festival celebrates its 20th year; we are thrilled to once again collaborate with the city’s arts organisations to present such a dynamic programme, bursting with the work of so many excellent artists from all over the world. 

“During the Festival, the whole city is the stage with events taking place in many unique and unexpected locations – from forts and parks, to hairdressers and streets. The Festival will be a celebration of how the arts can continue to engage, entertain and inspire. It’s an opportunity for people to experience our wonderfully creative city in a different way.” 

In a nod to the 100th anniversary commemoration of the 1916 Rising, Corcadorca is to stage Sacrifice at Easter at Barrack Street’s Elizabeth Fort from June 17 to July 2. Utopia Ltd, an off-site collaborative theatre performance inspired by the biography of Rodger Casement, will run June 17-19at Cork Boat Club. Choreographer Ruairí Donovan will stage Soldiers, a walking performance inspired by the mobilisation of 1,000 volunteers by Tomás Mac Curtain for the Rising. 

Festival favourite Picnic in the Park will return to Fitzgerald Park on June 19. The popular and much-loved Our Table also makes a welcome return. Sponsored by BAM Ireland, Ballymaloe, Cully & Sully and Tiger Beer, the outdoor banquet for 400 food lovers, spanning the length of Oliver Plunkett Street, will see twelve of Cork’s finest restaurants joining forces on June 26.

Further highlights include the return of mesmorising songstress Camille O’Sullivan, who will perform for a special, one-night only show at The Everyman on June 25. The hilarious Penny Arcade will also appear at the venue, bringing her double award-winning Edinburgh show Longing Lasts Longer to Cork for its Irish premiere on June 24. 

The renowned Metta Theatre is to stage another first for Ireland; a 21^st century twist on Kipling's classic tale The Jungle Book, complete with street dance, circus and rap. It will run from June 17-19and June 21.

One of the most unique events this year is Be My Guest, with Shandon residents selecting pieces from the Art Council’s permanent collection to hang in their living rooms. Their homes will then be opened to the public for a weekend art trail. Writer Kevin Barry will also host Crosstown Drift on June 25, taking his audience on a trail of tales and tunes across Cork. 

Midsummer Executive Director, Lorraine Maye added: “We are hugely appreciative to all our sponsors, partners, patrons, friends, and colleagues who have supported this festival, and ensured that Midsummer remains one of the most exciting summertime arts events in the country. We are also extremely grateful for the continued support of our audiences. We look forward to welcoming audiences old and new to the Festival this year - Cork is the only place to be for Midsummer!”

For full details of all events and bookings visit www.corkmidsummer.com.

Facebook: CorkMidsummerFestival

Twitter: @CorkMidsummer

International Sauvignon Blanc Day. Three To Try Next Friday

International Sauvignon Blanc Day

Three To Try Next Friday

The beautiful Chenonceau chateau in the Loire area
(but on the Cher River, a tributary of the Loire)

Sauvignon Blanc, possibly now the world’s best known white grape variety, has its annual day in the spotlight this coming Friday when International Sauvignon Blanc Day will be celebrated. We have three examples, all highly recommended, for you to try.

The “secret” of Sauvignon Blanc, known to connoisseurs for decades as the grape used in Sancerre in the Loire, was blown apart by the winemakers of New Zealand, of Marlborough in particular, whose fresh and lively style caught the attention of the world and, unlike the French, the Kiwis used the grape variety on the front label. Suddenly, we all knew a grape variety!

“The Kiwis made it famous” says one of the three well-known personalities discussing the white grape on a short video on YouTube; check it out here. Not one of them has a bad word to say about it:

“Great wine for beginners”;

“World’s most honest wine”;

“Refreshing”;

“Goes extremely well with soft cheeses:;

“Safest white wine to order from a wine list”.

If you want know more about the grape, read Jancis Robinson and the experts at Wine-searcher.com .

We don't have any for you from New Zealand but they are easily found. We do have a Southern Hemisphere offering, with an Irish connection, and two from the Loire area. Neither of the two is from Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé but both are nonetheless very interesting and excellent wines.

Guy Allion Domaine Du Haut Perron Sauvignon 2014 (Touraine AC), 13%, €14.55 Le Caveau

Touraine is the catch-all AC along much of the Loire valley but under it you’ll find many excellent wines, including this one. If it had Sancerre on the label, you could add another tenner to the price. Great value for money here and well worth a try. Their viticultural methods are “resolutely organic and sustainable”.

Its light yellow colour is pure and bright. In the aromas you’ll find white fruit (apple, pear), herbaceous notes, even nettle. No shortage of flavours, including citrus, on the fresh palate, where it is supple and vibrant, a sharp mineral edge, all combining in a good finish. Highly Recommended.

They say it is a wine to drink as an aperitif, with asparagus, seafood, or fish with a slightly creamy sauce or White butter.

I say try it with a simple Goatsbridge Smoked Trout salad or with Pan-fried Chicken Breast from the Chicken Inn cooked with apple and white wine (this one!).

Elgin Ridge 272 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (South Africa), 14%, €21.95 Bradley’s. (see also Le Caveau)

There is an Irish connection here. Cavan woman Marion Smith (Ballyjamesduff) is co-owner with husband Brian and the vineyard is certified organic. They are also the owners of the largest herd of Dexter cattle (a native Irish breed) in the area. You’ll also see Dorper sheep, Peking duck and chicken all keeping the vineyard in check.

The name comes from the fact that the vineyard is 282 metres above sea-level, “the ideal height to create cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc in the Elgin Valley”.

Colour is light gold, with a great clarity, and white fruits are to the fore in the aromas. On the palate, you get those white fruit flavours, citrus taking the lead now, lively acidity, a mineral edge there too and a good finish. A lovely refreshing wine, great with food, and Highly Recommended.

Frantz Saumon Montlouis-Sur-Loire Sauvignon 2014 (Vin de France), 11.5%, €17.95 Bradley’s (see also le Caveau)

This natural wine is made from manually harvested organic grapes and not your usual Sauvignon Blanc, even that little bit different to others from the Loire in both aroma and palate. You’ll notice it at first sniff: it is not overly aromatic at all, though you may find citrus and pineapple. It is also low in alcohol. Only indigenous yeasts are used and the use of sulphur is very restricted.

Colour is an inviting light gold, really bright, with microbubbles on the glass. It is pleasant and tingly on the palate, with notes of gooseberry and grapefruit, excellent acidity, all followed by a good finish.

Producers recommend trying this delicious wine with “simply prepared fish dishes”. It is well worth a try and Highly Recommended. And don't worry, it is not that far away from your normal Sauvignon Blanc!

Taste of the Week. Galtee Irish Honey

Taste of the Week

Galtee Irish Honey

Got a bit of a drop recently when Michael Creedon of Bradley’s told me they had run out of my favourite honey. Not available again until the Autumn! But he has sourced a fantastic alternative from Galtee Irish Honey, our latest Taste of the Week.

They are based in Cahir but their bees, from 150 hives in the Galtee Vee Valley, patrol three counties: Tipperary, Limerick and Cork, collecting from a big variety of fauna, including sycamore and horse chestnut blossom, dandelion, oilseed rape, hawthorn, blackberry blossom, clover and heather. And the resulting honey is gorgeous with a classic texture and a delicious complexity of flavour. Check out their excellent website for more information on Irish honey.

Some years back, I threw out the odd jar of honey when it became solid and cloudy until a helpful man at a farmer's market told me that this “crystallization” is a good sign, that the honey is pure and natural. Galtee Honey helpfully repeat that message on their jars. Just gently heat your cloudy jar and it will soon be back to normal.

They also say that honey does not spoil easily; the best before date on my current jar is end of 2020. I guarantee you it won't last that long in this house; it will hardly make the end of the week!

Galtee Honey

Burncourt

Cahir

Co. Tipperary.

0876743030

galteebees@gmail.com

www.galteehoney.com

Amuse Bouche

..example of the typical chow eaten by U-boat sailors...

Sunday 30 March (1941) Corned beef, turnips, potatoes, fruit.

Cooked ham, bacon, one pickled cucumber, dripping ersatz (a kind of bread made of  starch and low quality flour soaked in gravy), bread, tea.

31 March Egg-flip (a mix of eggs, potatoes, and salami the Germans called hopped poppel).

Tinned sausages, salt fish, butter, bread, tea.

1 April  Lentils and bacon, one sausage, stewed fruit.

Sausage, cheese, butter, bread and cocoa.

From Code Name Caesar by Jerome Preisler and Kenneth Sewell.

Amuse Bouche

You can’t believe how fertile the land is. You sprinkle seeds on the orange brown soil and within days shoots are pushing up. You only have to stretch your arms to pick ripe plums from the tree-lined boulevards. It is another Garden of Eden. For twenty five cents you can buy a hundred oranges. There’s a green fruit called aquacate that is creamy and smooth – three for just a nickel – and tastes delicious, with lemon juice, salt, and a kind of parsley called cilantro. There are: Purple mountains. Talking birds. Flowers growing wild everywhere. Mangoes. A fruit called papaya that grows to a meter in length, weighs up to three kilos, and tastes delicious with a hint of lime.

From The Price of Escape by David Unger.

Holy Smoke On The ‘Dyke. Check Relihan's Blow Out.

Holy Smoke On The ‘Dyke

Check Relihan's Blow Out.

Blow Out; included are Smoked Cob Wheels and Naked Slaw

All you hunter-gatherers can now converge on Holy Smoke in the Mardyke Complex, the new ground of John Relihan, an experienced master of the ancient art of cooking with fire and smoke (he was head chef at Jamie Oliver's Barbecoa BBQ restaurant in London). You want meat, head for the ‘Dyke.

Have any of you seen Cooked, a mini-series by Michael Pollan now on Netflix? He says that the BBQ is the "last idea of the ritual cooking of meat"; that the long and slow technique may well have come to America on the slave ships, was very much tied to the tobacco harvest in the south and that the term “pit boy” came from there. That series is worth a look. He calls commodity pig farming “a vision of hell”. On  a lighter note, you’ll see veteran songsmith James Taylor sing about his pig called Mona!

No vision of hell at the Mardyke though; just lots of exposed brick vaulted ceilings and bare lights hanging down. We got a chance to take a look, and a taste, earlier week, and must say I enjoyed every little morsel.

Low and Slow is the motto here and you'll see it in red letters around the room, a room by the way which is full "night after night". You’ll notice the buzz the minute you enter. Great place to go with a bunch of friends. Grab a beer as you check the menu.

It is meat all the way; well, there are a couple of options for the non-meat eater. The wood too is key. Back to Pollan again who explains that it is the burning wood gasses rather than the wood itself that give off the smoke that marries with the meat. You’ll notice different woods on the menu and that's because each wood has different flavour compounds. Split a length of cherry wood and you’ll smell cherry, according to Cooked.

You may have lots of individual plates here, of Pork, Beef, and Chicken. And Burgers too. Perhaps the best way to test is to order the large BBQ Blow Out (24.50). You’ll get Brisket Burnt Ends, Dry Rubbed Baby Back Ribs, Pit Smoked BBQ Chicken, and Pulled Pork. That’s what we did.

Head Chef John Relihan

Two sides are included, one from the Humble list, one from the Divine. We picked their Skin on Skinny Fries and the Divine Pit Smoked Burnt End Beans. With all the focus on the meat, I have to highlight those unexpectedly delicious beans. The full description is: Sweet smoky beans mixed with Brisket Burnt Ends cooked low and slow. Indeed, it looks as if those sides, both humble and divine, may be worth a closer inspection.

Now, with meat and beer (Howling Gale and Rebel Red from the taps) delivered, it was time to get the tools from the box on the table. Yes, all your cutlery needs are already there, along with a big roll of kitchen paper to tidy up the finger licking mess. And the Holy Water, of course.

It takes a while, even for two, to work through all that meat but well worth it. The pork was probably the highlight, the ribs a close second. Then again, that chicken half, chopped into four, was good too, particular the tasty thigh! Big cubes of smoky brisket were also much appreciated. Not to mention those beans! Would have been barbecue heaven had we been able to roll open that ceiling and let the sun shine in. But it was very enjoyable as it was. Hard to beat a packed restaurant with all that chat.

No shortage of beer!

 Prices are reasonable here. You can have a bowl of pulled pork for a tenner: pork shoulder cooked slow and low for 14 hours over oak, mixed with Holy Smoke BBQ sauce and served with naked slaw and cornbread. Spend two or three euro more and your choices multiply. Service is very friendly and very efficient too. Well worth a visit!

• Chef Relihan has serious form when it comes to cooking with fire. He was head chef at Jamie Oliver's Barbecoa BBQ restaurant in London and trained with world renowned Pitmaster Adam Perry Lang. Read more about John and the people behind Holy Smoke here
• Check the menu here

  

  On the door of the gents, a tame enough fellow,
  despite the ring on his nose.

  
  Holy Smoke
  Little Hanover Street, Cork
  Phone: (021) 427 3000
  email : holysmokecork@gmail.com 
• Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/HolySmokeCork/ 
• Twitter @holysmokecork

Wines Of The Marques de Caceres. For Food, And Afterwards!

Wines Of The Marques de Caceres.

For Food, And Afterwards!

In Jacques Restaurant on Wednesday evening, a Frenchman told us the story of the Spanish family that employs him, before we got down to tasting a series of their gorgeous wines. 

The Forner family had been involved in wine for decades before having to flee to France during the Spanish Civil War (1936-39), having “lost everything”.

Eventually, they began making wine in Bordeaux before, many years later, finding their way back to Spain to begin a winery in Rioja. Forner are better known to us as Marques de Caceres and the Frenchman, Florent Thibaut, is their Export Sales Manager. Florent was introduced to the attendance in Jacques by Dave Buckley of Cassidy Wines.

Florent started us off with a gorgeous Verdejo, saying that in fairly recent times, Marques de Caceres had began to make white wines in Rueda and Rias Baixas. “This grape is local in Rueda, giving a dry but aromatic wine, very pleasant on its own or with food (fish, salad).” It certainly was vibrant and fresh in the mouth with a delightful bouquet.

Next up was another white, their Albarino from Rias Baixas in Galicia. Think he said Galicia means mother earth, and he mentioned that the name of the wine indicated that it came, possibly via the Santiago de Compostella route,  from the Rhine (-rino) and was brought by a  monk (of course!).

He highlighted its minerality and said it is a great match with seafood, especially oysters. Jacques, who know a thing or two about matching food and wine, came up with some excellent pairings and the first was their Salted Cod Croquettes, a good match with the two whites.

Florent had excellent English and well able to hold his own in the banter that broke out from time to time. On being asked about the contribution of the Riedel glass to the wine, he said: “The glass is to the wine like the dress is to the lady!” Another quote, not from Florent, came to mind: Rioja wines are voluptuous; they  are round and full and rich. They are not Audrey Hepburn; they are more Marilyn Monroe.

So now we were on to those voluptuous reds, all from Rioja, starting with a very highly rated Crianza, which is for restaurants. “It is one hundred per cent Tempranillo from older vineyards.. with typical pepper, spice, a great choice with charcuterie, chorizo.., very much a wine for food… very pleasant but a serious wine.” Indeed, Excellens is a wine with great character and was quite a hit in the room.

And speaking of chorizo! As the reds were being tasted, Jacques served up a tasty dish of Basmati Rice, chorizo, peppers and chilli. Oddly enough, the Reserva didn't go down as well as the Crianza! Maybe, it was because “the nose was less expressive”. Florent went on to say that the Crianza “was more full-bodied, more tannic...for food.. Matches well with lamb”. And on cue, Jacques had some delicious lamb chops on the table!

In time too for the Gran Reserva which, Dave Buckley, told us “is not made every year”, only when  the fruit is very very good. ”Florent enthused: “And this eight year wine is very good indeed, from older vineyards. Very gentle, with smooth tannins. See that fresh colour…. Very fruit-driven, dark fruits.. Blackcurrant...that pepper and spice (from the oak) is there too..balsamic. For food, and for relaxing afterwards.”

Speaking further on this Gran Reserva, Florent noted its complexity and elegance. “Wine doesn't always have to be easy… sometimes you have to travel towards the wine.. From Cork to Rioja!” Reckon he had a busful of volunteers at that stage!

• Most Rioja reds will have spent some time in oak. Check out the various designations below:

The green label (cosecha) indicates less than one year in oak, less than one in bottle.

The red label (crianza) indicates 1 year in oak, 1 in bottle.

The burgundy (reserva) indicates 1 year in oak, 2 in bottle.

The royal blue (gran reserva) indicates 2 years in oak, three years in bottle.

Taste of the Week. Mega Munchy Muesli by The Foods of Athenry

Taste of the Week

Mega Munchy Muesli

by The Foods of Athenry

I have always enjoyed my breakfast when the Lawless family, the people behind the Foods of Athenry, are involved. So I was very much inclined to try their Mega Munchy Muesli when I saw it on the shelf in Bradley’s recently. At the back of my mind, there was a little hesitation though as sometimes muesli can be very very dry - unless you drown it with milk!

But no worries here. Just added a normal drop of milk and I had my Taste of the Week. They got this blend spot-on, a lovely mix of high-fibre gluten and wheat free jumbo oats with 40% added seeds, fruits and nuts - and nothing else. Aside from that drop of milk! Delicious.

I have also enjoyed their Strawberry and Vanilla Granola and their High Omega Very Berry Granola. Haven't had their Sunshine Porridge yet! So that’s on the list now. Variety is the spice of life

They make lots of gluten free products on the Lawless farm, including cakes and bars. Check them all out here. They are widely available in Ireland, in the UK and further afield. See stockists lists here.

Many Irish producers sell you a product and have very little info on the pack or online about how to use it. Again, The Foods of Athenry come up trumps here with a good recipe section.