Looking Good for Early Birds

Looking Good for Early Birds

Jacob's on the Mall do a 3 course Early Bird for €20.00

Time was, and, in some places it still is, that you got chicken, salmon, and just maybe a mundane vegetarian option on the nation's Early Bird menus. I've been looking at a few, only a few mind you, and things have certainly got better. Just one or two choices from each restaurant appears below. To see the full list, click on the restaurant name. 

Understandably, the number of choices may be limited but that doesn't mean that quality should be cut. No point in restaurants letting standards down. Better to have fewer choices at a high standard. After all, Early Bird or not, the kitchen's reputation is at stake.

Early Birds come in various guises, sometimes called Prix Fixe or Pre-Theatre. In some cases, they're available all night, especially earlier in the week. So do check the details online before you go and find a budget, a place, a time and, above all, a menu that will suit your palate.

Fish and chips on Early Bird at Jacobs on the Mall

Isaac's
Mild madras Lamb curry with basmati rice & side dishes
Duck confit with chive champ & caramelised onions

Star Anise 
Duck Confit, Sweet potato wedges, butterbean puree and thyme jus
Home-Made Gnocchi, Roasted Med. veg, sundried tomato pesto, rocket and pine-nuts

Fenn's Quay
O’Mahony’s Collar of Bacon with Cabbage, Spiced Walnuts & Parsnip Purée
O’Mahony’s Feather Blade of Beef with Ballyhoura Mountain Mushroom Duxelle with Celeriac Puree & Vegetable Crisps

Amicus

Quite a number of main course choices here including this tempting
Slow Cooked Pork Belly, Apple & Port Jus, Vegetables & Chive Mash

Cafe Serendipity
Beef or Chicken Rogan Josh – with Basmati Rice and Naan Bread
Smoked Chicken Risotto – House Smoked Chicken, walnuts, spinach, sundried tomato, Asparagus, Parmasen crisp

Club Brasserie

Confit of duck, with creamy flageolet beans, rustic potatoes, green beans and a red wine sauce. Red Thai Chicken Curry, with Coconut milk, spices, coriander, red peppers and cream with basmati rise and poppadum crisps. Electric Chicken, Chorizo & Bean Stew, sourdough bread Oven Baked Hake, colcannon, bok choi, lemon & caper cream sauce

Jacques
Free Range Pork Chop, Mustard and Parmesan Crust, Red Cabbage and Granny Smith
Vegetable Moussaka, Aubergines, Knockalara Cheese, Lentils and Roast Red Onion

La Dolce Vita
Big choice of pasta and pizza dishes

Market Lane
Slow cooked West Cork ham hock with leek and potato gratin, curly kale, and Dijon and parsley sauce
Baked aubergine with spiced beans, lentils, roast tomatoes, fennel, saffron yoghurt, pine nuts and roast sweet potatoes

Oysters
Smoked Cod – Saffron Risotto, Asparagus, Carrot, Grape, Mandrain Dressing
Beef Cheeks - Potato Gnocchi, Beligham Blue Cheese, Black Pudding, Pickled Elderberries

Dessert at Jacobs

Lunch Deals
(just a few)

Cafe Gusto
Cornstore
Aroi
Fenn's Quay
L'Atitude 51

If you have an Early Bird or Lunch Deal, you can let me know via the Comment Facility below or email cork dot billy at gmail dot com

Taste of the Week. Glenisk Greek Style Yogurts

Taste of the Week

Glenisk’s Greek Style Yogurts

Have been enjoying my breakfasts these mornings, mixing a little granola with the gorgeous Greek Style Yoghurts from Glenisk, the Taste of the Week. These creamy tubfuls come in a range of mouth watering flavours and contain beneficial probiotic cultures to promote healthy digestion. And, even better, they are natural organic yogurts. Flavours include Strawberry, Blueberry, Rhubarb, Apple, Gooseberry, and the limited edition Raspberry and Lemon Curd.  Lots of choice then and, if you are stuck for time, they even do tubs of Natural Yoghurt with the granola included. No excuse! Favourites here were the Blueberry and Strawberry but I'm sure you’ll have your own!

Meeting the Wicklow Wolf Pack. Classy Ales and Porter

Meeting the Wicklow Wolf Pack

Classy Ales and Porter

The Wicklow Wolf is a new brewery based in the county where Ireland’s last wolf reputedly roamed, in ever decreasing circles chasing his tail. Now they're chasing his ale.

Wicklow Wolf American Amber Ale, 4.8%, Bradley’s, North Main St., Cork

The colour tells you this is an Amber ale. The label tells you it is made with water, malted barley, hops, yeast, and love! Your palate tells you it is very good: sweet caramel and tropical fruit tones, balanced by a tang of citrus hops. Mellow magic, made the Wicklow way.

Wicklow Wolf India Pale Ale, 6.3%, Bradley’s, North Main St., Cork

The wolf goes wild here, punching above his weight with a “powerful blend of Cascade and Simcoe hops, grapefruit, citrus, pine and passionfruit.” Above the normal ABV too but the overall result is a knockout win for the lovers of the hop.

Wicklow Wolf Black Perle Porter, 4.8%, Bradley’s, North Main St., Cork

This is the Wolf’s dark side, his Porter, richer than many stouts and just as tasty, full of “dark caramel, chocolate, coffee and toasted malt”. The Wolf has his way with the classic English porter here, melding the German Perle hop into the richness and yielding an intense complexity, character enough “to satisfy any dark beer drinker”. Glad to confirm the brewer’s claims! Now, let’s see him make a stout!

* The brewery also do two other beers, a Brown Cream Ale and a Fresh Hopped Blonde Ale. Keep up to date at their Facebook page.

Amuse Bouche

The next morning, we sat across from each other at a table in Bickford’s, addled by physical proximity, bleary-eyed from lack of sleep, gulping orange juice and coffee and downing eggs and bacon and toast. Sex had made us ravenous. Black smudges underlined his eyes; secret glee was smeared on his mouth like jam. I wanted to lick it off.

from The Unwitting by Ellen Feldman

Well Worth Opening A Bocksbeutel or Two!

Well Worth Opening A Bocksbeutel or Two!

Racy Riesling. Sexy Silvaner.

First thing you notice with these two whites is the shape of the bottle; it looks a lot like a leather pouch or a cowboy’s water canteen. It is known locally in Franken as a bocksbeutel and is used in this German wine region (also known as Franconia in English) to hold their best wines. And quality is more seriously indicated by the VDP in the neck of the bottle. Würzburg is the area’s capital.

The Burgerspital is a charitable trust, founded in 1316,  and “every bottle that its wine estate sells helps promote the trust”, now taking care of some 750 senior citizens. Not too sure about the present but in 1598 the daily allowance was 1.22 litres! Now, I wonder would any of our craft breweries like to start something similar!

Burgerspital Würzburg, Silvaner trocken 2011, Franken (Germany), 13%, €17.70, Karwig Wines

Silvaner (sometime spelt Sylvaner) is grown primarily in Germany and is a component of Liebfraumilch. Don't worry, they handle it rather differently in Franken. This one has subtle but very pleasant aromas. Colour is a very pale gold and you’ll see more than a few stationary bubbles.

On the palate, it is round and spicy, smooth and well balanced with a fine acidity and this delicious wine also finishes well. Quite liked it and Very Highly Recommended. The makers suggest matching it with fish and white meat.

Burgerspital Würzburg, Riesling trocken 2011, Franken (Germany), 12%, €18.10, Karwig Wines

Racy is not a word I've seen associated with Riesling very often but racy and fruity are the two key words in the winery's shop description of this wine. There is nothing delicate here, indeed it is rather muscular for a Riesling, full bodied, with attractive fruit flavours, complex and long on the finish. Impressive.

It is well made for sure and a worthy occupant of the bocksbeutel, the legally protected distinctive bottle, “allegedly shaped like a ram’s testicles”, also a "goat's scrotum", both according to the Finest Wines of Germany (2012, Aurum Press). Maybe that’s where the racy came from. The bottle's neck, like the Silvaner, is stamped VDP. Very Highly Recommended.

Colour is pale gold with hints of green. Aromas are subtle, some floral and citrus traces (no petrol!) evident. They recommend pairing it with light dishes, salads and pasta. We matched it with monkfish (with tomatoes, crème fraîche  and Vermouth) and noodles and it worked out very well indeed.

Staying at MacNean House. At ease from start to finish.

Staying at MacNean House.

At ease from start to finish.

We got a lovely soft-voiced gentle welcome on arrival at MacNean House, the base of Neven Maguire, Ireland's best known chef. We were at ease immediately and that feeling continued right through our pre-Christmas stay.

The house, along with the restaurant and adjoining cooking school, is situated in the small border town of Blacklion, County Cavan, just across the road from the Garda station and the tourist office.

Blacklion is also just across the bridge from its Fermanagh neighbour Belcoo. There was snow on the hills as we walked between the two small towns, crossing the border on the way. Lights were coming on in Belcoo, welcoming visitors from the republic with an 80 pence for one euro offer.

Granola with honey

It was fairly cold so we didn't stay out and about for too long and were soon back in our comfortable well equipped room preparing for that evening's dinner, a fabulous meal indeed. But breakfast is also quite an event and it is also served in the main dining room.

There is a very impressive display on the serve-yourself table and then you can also choose from the two page menu. There is a tempting selection of juices. Not just any old juices. The apple juice, for instance, comes from Con Traas in Tipperary, his Karmine apples featured.

A big choice of granola and muesli and breads of course plus fruit salads and a selection of McGeough’s cold meats along with cheeses. I started with juice and a Honey Granola.

Ireland's most famous porridge!

Then our order was taken at the table, for starter and mains! My starter was, had to be really, the famous MacNean Porridge with honey, cream and a wee drop of Irish Mist! That meant I missed out on the Poached Apricots and also the Warm Prunes.

On then to a magnificent mains menu that included MacNean Traditional breakfast and the MacNean Special breakfast, fairly similar to one another but with the the Special containing a few extras including boxty.  Lots of choices too with the Scrambled Eggs, including plaice, smoked salmon and kippers. And they also had House-made Waffles.

Eggs Benedict

My pick though was the Eggs Benedict, served on a gorgeous toasted brioche, spinach, light butter sauce, with honey glazed ham (could also have had the eggs with smoked salmon). Hadn't finished dinner that long before but still managed to clean the plate. Eggs were perfectly executed and went well with the flavours and texture of the ham. That really set me up for the day at the cooking school!

Later, as part of our Cookery Course, we got a tour of the kitchen. A big pot of mulled wine was bubbling away and we also got a look at a very impressive, very large, stock pot. It was quiet enough about the two o'clock mark but would be much busier when the evening came and some fourteen chefs crowded in. Still, it all looks very well organised and that shows in the high standard of food that emerges. Chef Neven has some team there!

See also: Neven's Cookery School
Dinner from Neven's kitchen.

A big stock pot is shown on the right hand pic. In the other photo, the pastry chefs are hard at it,
while pots of mulled wine bubble on the left.

Raising Uisce Beatha. Irish Whiskey Renaissance.

Irish Whiskey Renaissance

Raising Uisce Beatha*

A tasty introduction to the Single Pot Still whiskeys of Midleton.

Irish Whiskey, the one with the “e”, is on the rise again.

“There is a huge renaissance in Irish Whiskey...25 years of solid growth,” declared Midleton Distillery’s Production Director Peter Morehead during a recent radio progamme.  

And that reality is reinforced by the amount of new distilleries (including West Cork, Dingle, Blackwater and Tullamore) newly in production or about to go into production - you do have to wait three years and a day for your spirit to qualify as whiskey.

It is a stunning comeback by an industry that was on its knees in the 1960’s. But, starting in 1966, amalgamations and foreign takeovers led to the revival with Jameson leading the rise. You can read all about the history of whiskey in this country on the Single Pot Still website.

Here, you'll see how Irish Whiskey makers’ belief in the quality of their Single Pot Still product inadvertently handed an advantage to their Scottish rivals. Of course, there were other factors as Irish slid to the bottom. But that quality is now a key part of the revival, especially in Midleton.

While other whiskey, and whisky, are made from a mash of malted barley, the Pot Still is made from a mash of malted and unmalted barley, an uniquely Irish approach to whiskey distillation. I, despite many a drop of Paddy and, more lately Jameson, am not an whiskey expert, but this is my take on four of these representatives of “the quintessential style of Irish whiskey” recently.

Started off with the familiar Redbreast 12 (and, yes, it is named after the robin). Twelve years, by the way, is the age of the youngest whiskey in the bottle. It has quite rich aromas, partly because it has been matured in Sherry casks. Indeed, all casks from fortified wines areas - Sherry, Port, Madeira, Marsala - can be used by whiskey makers.

Dave Quinn, Master of Whiskey Science
at Jameson Distillery, Midleton

The Redbreast is harmonious on the palate with a good flavoursome finish. While the alcohol is not at all prominent on the 12, the Redbreast 21, as you might expect, is even smoother - got a sample of that during the radio show.

Back to my own line-up now and the Green Spot. This is fresher and spicier, both on the nose and on the palate, a little bit sweeter too, the spicy notes lingering on the finish. Both the first two have an ABV of 40%.

The Power’s John Lane weighs in at 46% and has a darker nose “an abundance of earthy aromas”. There is a spicy introduction to the palate and then hints of sweetness and these continue through to the lingering finish, a finish that I really enjoyed.

The final tasting in the classy quartet was the Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy, another beauty. The nose picks up aromas of vanilla (prominent for me) and toasted oak and the tasting notes also hint “at a touch of lime, succulent green berries, pears and green sweet pepper”.

On the palate it is sweet and spicy but so well balanced and the finish is also superb. Perhaps my favourite of the four. It too has an ABV of 46%.

I was drinking the Single Pot Stills neat, the better to taste the diversity of the flavour spectrum. But most people prefer some kind of mixer - a current favourite seems to be Jameson (not a Single Pot Still!), Ginger and Lime. You can check that, and many more suggestions, here.

The Single Pot Still Irish whiskey was once the most popular in the world. Full of complex flavours and with a creamy mouthfeel, it is a drink we can be proud of. And great to see it on the up again. Slainte!

• To delve deeper into the story of this type of whiskey, please check out this Single Pot Still site . 

  
  

  *Uisce Beatha is Irish for Whiskey, means water of life.
  

  
  

Taste of the Week

Taste of the Week
Yeast Loaf by Natural Foods Bakery

This yeast loaf, by Natural Foods Bakery in Blackrock, is a favourite around here and is Taste of the Week. Natural Foods may no longer be operating at the farmers markets but you'll find them at their cafes in Paul Street (where I bought this loaf), Fitzgerald's Park, and at Pier Head in Blackrock. Buy local, fresh and fair!

Bauduc’s Superior Red Double

Bauduc’s Superior Red Double

Summer (2014) tasting at Bauduc

Chateau Bauduc Close de Quinze 2012, Bordeaux supérieur, 14% abv, €18.99 at Red Nose Wines

This single vineyard blend, of Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, is supple and fruity, a classic Bordeaux, produced by English couple Gavin and Angela Quinney in their lovely vineyard, Chateaux Bauduc near Créon, in between the Garonne and Dordogne.

This is a very dark red, almost black, with ripe red fruit on the nose. It is a Bordeaux supérieur, for sure, but with a certain restraint, sophistication even. There's no mistaking its fruit, supple and pervasive all over the palate, right through to a delightful long and dry finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Château Bauduc 'Les Trois Hectares' Rouge, Bordeaux supérieur 2010, 13.5%, €28.00 Curious Wines & Red Nose Wines

“We only make Les Trois Hectares red in really good years, like 2010. The grapes come from the three best parcels of Merlot and the wine is aged in new and one-year old French oak barrels.” I tasted this Merlot last June during a very pleasant visit to Gavin and Angela at Bauduc and it was marvellous. Now, in depths of winter, it still comes up trumps, full flavoured and elegant. No difficulty in seeing why the 2006 was the top selling red at Gordon Ramsay’s three Michelin star restaurant in London. Indeed, the Ramsey tasting crew had left the chateau just before we arrived. Another Very Highly Recommended red from the outskirts of Créon. Indeed, if you are on holidays in the area, why not make a visit. But do contact them before you do so. Better again, why not stay there as they have a large house, with pool, to let in the grounds! Info here.

Amuse Bouche

One day,... poor Erning has a stroke.  …., he is told by his doctor: “Mr Isip, from now on you can only eat things that can swim.” Several weeks pass and Erning doesn’t show for his follow-up appointment. The doctor, worried, decides to pass by Erning’s house, because… they are neighbours…. The doctor rings the doorbell and the maid opens the gate.

Maid: “Yes, sir?”

Doctor: “Where is Mr. Isip?”

Maid: “He’s in the pool, sir.”

Doctor: “Very good. What’s he doing?”

Maid: “He’s teaching the pig to swim!”

from Ilustrado by Miguel Syjuco

Elbow Lane Brew & Smoke House Nano. But with a mega tasty punch!

Elbow Lane Brew & Smoke House

Nano.  But with a mega tasty punch!

Duck's ready.

One of Cork’s newest, and smallest, restaurants sure packs a big tasty punch.

The Elbow Lane Brew and Smoke House, right next door to big brother Market Lane, has its own niche and here you’ll be well fed and well watered. Well not exactly water, though they do have plenty of it. But the dining area is built around the micro-brewery that produces no less than five of their own beers, everything from a refreshing lager to a silky smooth hugely satisfying stout, all brewed with the intention of matching the food.

Virtually everything you get on your plate here has been through the in-house smoker, the smoke coming from apple wood. Oak is used under the grill and here the T-Bones, the duck and fish (last Wednesday night it was Sea Bass), is finished off.

You can see the food being prepared on the grill. Your taste buds will be standing up as they get a hint of what's to come from the old olefaction, as smoked duck, T-Bone steaks, whole fish, and slow smoked baby back ribs and more emerge from the hot hole in the wall and are placed on the pass for all to see.

We were going for the bigger mains so avoided the starters. But it was hard! The Low Smoked Brisket Roll, the Oyster Brulee, and the Smoked Salmon Salad all had their temptations.

Catch of the Day

I sipped a glass of their Wisdom Lane Red Ale and CL enjoyed the Elbow Lane Lager as we waited for the mains. All the beers are named after local lanes. They also have a guest beer and I finished the night with a terrific Kinsale Ale. My highlight though was the Angel Lane Stout and that went down well with the steak. More beers available in bottle and there is also a short wine list.

Yes, I plumped for the Wood Grilled T-bone (the manager’s favourite, I’m told!). This is lathered in Bearnaise Butter and served with a mixed salad and is priced at €21.00. On the side, we had their triple cooked chips (€4.00) and Seasonal Veg (€4.50).

The steak - they use Tom Durcan aged beef here - looked huge but, terrifically tasty and tender, it didn't last that long. The chips are something special and the vegetable (purple sprouting broccoli on the night) was excellent. All were well cooked.

Super T-Bone

Angel Lane Stout

And the sounds of approval were echoed from the other side of the table where CL got stuck into Half an Applewood Smoked Duck (€20), checking over the carcase a few times to make sure she hadn't left anything edible there. “The best duck ever,” was her verdict. And she too enjoyed the sides and didn’t spare their own Smoke House Sauce, a recent Taste of the Week .

I had noticed some unusual desserts (all €6.90) on their menu on the net and was looking forward to the Passion Curd, eucalyptus and tamarind jelly and it proved just the job after the steak. CL was just a little less pleased with the American style Blackberry s’mores with homemade marshmallows.

Overall, we were delighted with the meal and glad to report that service was very informative, prompt and friendly, lots of smiles from entry to exit. It may be a small place but it has a big buzz and you’ll need to book to make sure of a table. Something different for Cork diners and a great place to go and have a local drink and share a plate of those tasty ribs and then move on to something more substantial. Very Highly Recommended.

See my visit to the Elbiow Lane brewery here .

Chaume Sweet Chaume

Chaume Sweet Chaume

Chateau Soucherie Coteaux du Layon Chaume, 2010 France, 12%

Soucherie in the summer of 2013

A remarkable wine, according to reliable French guide Hachette. But we rarely see the sweet Coteaux du Layon wines here in Ireland. I bought a box in the Chateau Soucherie in the western Loire in 2013 and just finished the last bottle!

Harvested from 70 year old Chenin blanc grapes, it is a gem, a gem “with dainty fresh magic” according to Guide Hachette.  This golden coloured wine has delicious gentle aromas, including hints of mango. The palate is rich, full and smooth, concentrated, balanced so without too much sweetness. A perfect sweet wine for your dessert and Very Highly Recommended.

And perfect too as an aperitif. It has been going well here the past few days, matching brilliantly with Almond and Pistachio Nougat by Miena, perfect with the Christmas cake (a light one) and with the Panatone, and I particularly enjoyed it with the Pisachio baklava (from Cork’s Sultan’s Delights).

The vineyard in Soucherie does not use chemicals, herbicides or synthetic fertiliser.

You may read some background here on these sweet wines and see how the morning mists that rise from the river Layon in late summer promote the development of botrytis (noble rot) – an essential ingredient in the finest Coteaux du Layon Chaume wines. And see too how the grapes are hand-picked in a number of sweeps, explaining to some degree why the wines are expensive.

Indeed, the methods used here are much the same as in Sauternes. I know that Karwig Wines give the wines of Bergerac (including the sweet Monbazillac) shelf space to compete with their Bordeaux neighbours but I don't think many Irish importers do so.  And often it seems as if Sauternes is king, the one and only.

And it is a shame that the impression gets around because there are so many more sweet wines available, including the magnificent Tokaji from Hungary and some terrific examples from Australia and elsewhere. 

But even in France itself, you have the aforementioned Monbazillac, Beaumes de Venise, Rasteau, Jurancon, Banyul, Muscat de Rivesaltes, Bonnezeaux (also in the Loire), and so many more. Even in Bordeaux, you've got Barsac (linked with Sauternes) and, a little further away, Tour de Calens.

These wines vary a bit so you'll have to do some research! Still, if you're looking for a classic, why not try a Chaume?

• Sauternes has a long head-start. In 1790, Thomas Jefferson ordered thirty dozen bottles of Yquem for George Washington and himself.