Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Euro-toques Day Out. From Wood to Waterfall

Euro-toques Day Out
From Wood to Waterfall
Under the waterfall at Greene's: Pam, Kate, Christine.
From foggy morning to sunny afternoon, the Munster contingent of Euro-toques enjoyed their day out last Monday. That foggy morning was spent foraging mushrooms in a North Cork wood while the afternoon saw the chefs and guests tuck into a gorgeous late lunch in Greene’s by the Waterfall. Greene's head chef Bryan McCarthy put the day’s package together with a huge input from Mark and Lucy of Ballyhoura Mushrooms and sponsorship by Wines Direct and La Rousse Foods.
In the wood
It was quite an education in the woods and we all agreed you’d need more than one outing with an expert before trusting yourself in the mushroom field. Lots to take in as Mark and Lucy shared their in-depth knowledge.

“Chanterelles can't be cultivated, they are symbiotic. They grow from May to the first frost, have a sweet seafoody flavour and an apricot aroma when fresh. They have a solid stem. The false chanterelle has a hollow one. There are also autumn chanterelles, including a black one one called the Horn of Plenty, found in areas of pine, with a lovely woody flavour, our favourite!”.
In the wood (2): Caroline takes the higher ground;
Fionnula relaxes with her bag of food.
Bottom: "This one stinks!" (right)
and Gautham searching in the fog.
Note the polypores on the tree
on the left.
“Ceps are found near mature beech trees, When they are young they are snow white with a natural umami flavour, great texture and very versatile as regards use.” But maybe not as versatile as the Birch polypore which, when dried out, can be used to sharpen your kitchen knives!

Much more to be found out as the bus load of mostly amateurs spread out among the trees, watching out for branches springing back, muddy patches, cow pats, slippery slopes, briars, even barbed wire here and there. Still, despite a few minor tumbles, it turned out to be a terrific morning in the old deciduous wood and quite a few baskets were filled.
Cured organic Deenish Island Salmon
Back to the bus then and we arrived in Greene's in mid-afternoon sun be be greeted with cool glasses of La Contesse spumante.  Fionnula Harkin of Wines Direct, introduced us to Francesca of Le Contesse who told us about the family run vineyard, how the grapes are handpicked and that quality and consistency are prime considerations. Fionnula emphasised that this is the kind of vineyard that Wines Direct deals with, “family run vineyards, nothing industrial”.

Ross Lewis from Chapter One, a senior member of Euro-toques, then spoke. “Ireland has some of the best primary produce in the world. And Euro-toques is one big food family, passionately engaged with artisans. As the artisan movement gets stronger and stronger, Ireland's food will have its day in the sun.” He reported that tourists in his own restaurant are overwhelmingly positive about their experiences of Irish food.

Seared Wild Irish Venison Haunch Fillet
wine: Luc Lapeyre Les Clots (Languedoc)
And then it was time to sample some of that food. We had some beautiful nibbles by the waterfall in the sun before moving indoors to continue enjoying the produce of Ballyhoura Mushrooms, Wines Direct, Caroline Robinson Organic Vegetables, Kilbrack Farm, La Rousse Foods, Ummera, Jack McCarthy, Waterfall Farms, and Arbutus Breads. Greene’s chefs, like their Euro-toques colleagues nationwide are, as Ross Lewis said, “passionately engaged with artisans”. And this meal brilliantly underlined it!

  • If you spot your favourite chef sprouting a moustache this month and next, he’s more than likely doing it for charity, all in aid of Movember who raise awareness and funds for prostrate cancer, testicular cancer and men’s health. Don’t leave it all to the chefs!
Poached Garden Pear & Wild Foraged Blackberry
wine: Le Contesse Pinot Rose.




L'Atitude 51. More Than A Wine Bar!

L'Atitude 51. More Than A Wine Bar!
Wine aces: Emma (left) and Beverley

Since 1968, when people in Catalunya talk of Barcelona FC, they say “it is more than a club”. Perhaps from now on, L’Atitude 51 will be referred by its many friends as “more than a wine bar”. For that was the gist of the citation read out in Dublin last week when the popular Cork venue was awarded the Wine Award of the Year in the 2015 Georgina Campbell Awards, Ireland’s longest-running hospitality awards, and highly respected by the industry.
Co-owners, Beverley Mathews and Emmanuelle Legrand, told me that they are extremely proud and honoured to receive this award in recognition of their efforts to create a better understanding of wine and encourage people to step out of their oenological comfort zones. This award is the crown they have been working towards since opening less than 3 years ago; despite that, it came as a complete surprise to both ladies when the announcement was made. Beverley and Emmanuelle stress that this journey could not have happened without the loyal following of customers who have supported L’Atitude 51 from the outset.
The key philosophy behind L’Atitude 51 is to make wine fun and exciting, and to that end they are always on the lookout for new and original activities to promote wine. The recent virtual skype tasting organized for Culture Night, which is cited in Georgina Campbell’s review, is one such event and was the first of its kind in Ireland.
They also organize a monthly CineCafe, which features a movie with a food and/or wine theme and incorporates a tasting in keeping with the movie. They also hold regular wine classes. Besides wine, music also plays a prominent part in their calendar of events with live gigs aplenty. Always striving to keep things fresh, they are currently in the throes of a complete overhaul of their wine list in an effort to get people drinking “better”. The new list will be launched in time for L’Atitude 51’s 3rd anniversary at the beginning of December – so keep an eye out for it!
Contact
L'Atitude 51 
Beverley Mathews - Emmanuelle Legrand
Tél. : 021 2390219
Email : info@latitude51.ie

The Award Citation
L’Atitude 51 Wine Café, Cork
This is the only category of our Awards for which we encourage applications. While we also take note of other outstanding wine offerings encountered on our travels, interested establishments may submit their wine lists for consideration, and they are then judged together with other aspects of the wine experience.  
Billing itself as a wine café, this quirky riverside venue is part tapas bar, part wine bar - and, run by French and Irish friends, Emmanuelle Legrand and Beverley Mathews, it has a distinctly continental flair. Emmanuelle and Beverley have a serious passion for wine, which they love to share with customers.
Alongside the well-sourced ingredients for the café or evening tapas menus (great selection of European and artisan foods served up as delicious taster plates), you’ll find a creative wine list on an oversized blackboard listing over 50 bottles, half of which can be sampled as tasting glasses (75ml), or ordered by the glass or carafe. Daily specials come with a suggested wine pairing, and a 'wine flight' (tasting to compare several wines) can be arranged in whatever combination interests you. Or you can take part in their 'mystery wine challenge', where they select three wines for you to taste 'blind' - if you get them right, they refund you the price of the three wines...Win or lose, it's a fun way to learn more about wine.
Other interesting drinks include Irish craft beers (8 Degrees on draught, Dungarvan by the bottle) and Longueville House cider, as well as an international list and cocktails too. Upstairs, wine workshops and tastings - including meet the winemaker evenings and tutored whiskey tastings - are held in a room with great river views. And innovative events are a special feature of L'Atitude 51 - a recent example was an internet tasting, where wines were tasted in Cork with insight coming from the Irish winemakers in Sussex, South Africa and New Zealand on Skype (big screen). Whether to focus on learning or simply while away an afternoon or evening sampling the tempting wares, it’s an inviting spot. Very much a bar with benefits.
Events to come...
GIGS
- Thursday 16th October
Lynda Cullen, Jamie O’Shea
Jazz Festival @ L’Atitude51
- Friday 24th October (10.30 pm – Free) Lyda
- Saturday 25th October
Eileen Healy – Edel Sullivan
- Sunday 26th October
Colin McLean Latin Trio

L’ATITUDE CINECAFE
Movies you “See & Taste”
Wednesday 22nd October at 8 pm
Babette’s Feast
Tickets 12 euros (includes tasting)
Booking essential : Tel. 021 2390219 or info@latitude51.ie

RHONE WINE WEEK
Thursday 6th November
"A Wine Goose Chase"
This is an interactive wine tasting combined with storytelling which takes you on a trip with the tenacious Irish people who transformed the wine world and didn't let coming from a grape-free land stop them!
Tickets €20 Doors 8pm Show starts at 8.30pm
Booking essential : www.awinegoosechase.com

Friday November 7th "A Taste of Ventoux"
Presentation and tasting with Fred Chaudiere of Chateau Pesquié – an estate located at the foot of the Ventoux Mountain in the Southern Rhone, run by 3 generations of winemakers.
Tickets €15. - 7.30pm
Booking essential :
www.chateaupesquie.com/en/welcome.php
www.latitude51.ie
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Sunday, October 12, 2014

Early Bird at La Dolce Vita

Early Bird at La Dolce Vita


Appetiser (top) and Parmigiana di Melanzane

Felt like an Italian the other night. Re-start. Felt like eating Italian the other night and headed up the banks of the south channel as dusk came to French’s Quay (named after a wine merchant) and Proby’s Quay where La Dolca Vita stands in the shadow of the cathedral.

They say this is where the city's Italians come to eat and, by the sounds in the comfortable dining area, it is no idle boast. We were welcomed in at 6.45pm and decided to try the early bird, two courses (starter and mains) and a glass of wine for €21.50.

One of the features of this room, and indeed of its earlier phases (remember Proby’s Bistro, the Brick Oven), is the amount of lampshades, must be about two dozen, hanging from the ceiling. Makes the lighting all rather cosy!

Soon we were at our table, going through the choices and noted that the fish and meat is sourced locally, from the English Market. There were at least six starters available to us and dozens of main courses. While we are deciding, we are treated to an tasty pesto appetizer.


They do have the brick oven here still (they call it the “Big Fella”) and that was used to do our starter. We each went for the Parmigiana di Melanzane (Brick oven cooked sliced Aubergine, Parmesan, Tomato sauce). Substantial and really superb.


The brick oven was in action again for my mains: the Salsiccia & Cherry tomatoes pizza (Pomodoro, mozzarella, italian sausage and cherry tomatoes drizzled with basil oil). The tomatoes were deliciously juicy and the herby sausage was full of flavour. Hadn't had a pizza in ages and really enjoyed this one.


The other mains, Salmon la Dolce Vita (Fresh salmon with Prawns in Cherry Tomato Sauce), tasted as well as it looked. The simple tomato sauce was a lovely match for the well-cooked salmon and a side dish of potatoes and veg was excellent as well.

All that, and two glasses of Nero d’Avola “from the south”, for €21.50. A lovely meal and at a very good price indeed and it was two satisfied customers that departed at 7.48pm. The early bird is available Monday to Thursday until 8:30, Friday, Saturday and Sunday until 7:00.

Amuse Bouche

There’s something wonderful about drinking in the afternoon. A not-too-cold pint, absolutely alone at the bar - even in this fake-ass Irish pub. It’s new, built to look like old. Erin go Bragh bullshit with its four flat screens… The generic Irish bric-a-brac they deliver by the truck-load. Empty moving vans roaming the Irish countryside right now, I imagine, waiting for old Missus Meagher to drop dead into her black pudding so they can buy up the contents of her curio shelves. All of it shipped straight off to a central clearing house, where it’s divvied up between Instant Irish Pubs in New York, Milwaukee,Singapore and Verone.

from Medium Raw by Anthony Bourdain.

Friday, October 10, 2014

Out of the Blue. Where the best fish go.

Out of the Blue.
Where The Fab Fish Go



Dingle was all abuzz for last weekend’s annual Food Festival. Not easy to get a restaurant booking on Saturday night and one of the most sought after tables was at Out of the Blue on the waterfront. Tim Mason’s 12 year old fish restaurant, powered by two French chefs, has a colourful “hut” type frontage. But don’t worry. The building, which goes back a bit from the road, is solid and the cooking is spectacular.

After emails, phone calls and texts, all a few days earlier, they managed to squeeze us in late on Saturday night. Met one of my twitter pals at the wine bar on the way in. “You’re in for a treat”, she said. And, boy, was she right! The good vibes continued with the smiling welcome and service was a delight all the way to the final cheery good nights.

They have quite a wine list normally but had added a string of specials for the Food Festival. I didn't go further than the first one. I like my Verdejo and, with the fish in mind, choose the Mesta Verdejo Organic 2013 from the Ucles region in Spain. Inviting aromas are followed by a clean and refreshing palate; a very enjoyable wine. Was also tempted by the Cres Richards Marsanne-Roussane (a favourite blend) but was very happy with my Spaniard.
Amuse, soup, and crab

Didn't need to touch the wine for a while though as we started off this special festival tasting menu with a glass of prosecco to accompany Mackerel Pate and home cured Salmon. The sea, oh the sea,  gra geal mo chroi! Great flavours and texture had us humming.

And that was followed by a Pumpkin and Fennel and Curry Soup with some sautéed scallops lurking in the gorgeous warming mix. Eating and drinking in this well blended bowl. Then it was the turn of the crustacean: crab balls and crab toes with a mango and chilli pesto. Looked well and the flavours were clean and brilliant. The sea, oh the sea!

And then another chorus as the “main event” arrived. This was the magnificent duo of fish: roasted turbot with morelle crumble, pan-fired John Dory with tarragon and horse-radish sauce, with a mini pumpkin stuffed with ratatouille and basil. That ratatouille was brilliant, could have eaten it on its own but, combined with the two fish, the whole ensemble fully deserved the main event tag. It must have been full-tilt in the kitchen at that point but no sign of any turbulence on this superb plate.
Main event

Before dessert, we had baked camembert with rhubarb and pear chutney. I enjoyed mine but there was a mixed reception, some thinking that the mustard dressing with the salad was just too much!


And then there was quite a finale, a massive multi part dessert: Passionfruit panna cotta, hazelnut, walnut and caramel tart, hazelnut and almond biscuit and a gianduja (a mix of hazelnut and chocolate).  “For a treat” they said. And they weren't kidding. Superb dessert, superb meal. Very Highly Recommended.

See also:
The Dingle Taste Trail
The Dingle Distillery Tour
My Dingle Food Experience

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Irish Tea Rooms Worth Noting!

Irish Tea Rooms Worth Noting!
(in no particular order)

What are your own favourites? Use Comment facility below to reply.

You'll find the Pie Cafe and Tea Rooms, the latest addition to this list, at the back of the famous Dick Mac's Yard in Dingle. Π or Pie is a colourful spot. Tea is served in unusual pots and the speciality here is their Sweet and Savoury Pies. On a recent visit, I enjoyed their Cornish Pasty which had one half filled with venison in red wine and chocolate, the other with raspberry and strawberry. Super.







Welcome to Ardmore, Co. Waterford



Ben Bulben from Drumcliffe

Donegal sunset

The Awbeg river in Doneraile Court


The Phoenix Park Tea Rooms, Dublin









Tea and a view over Cork Harbour


Doll's House in the shop.

Taste of the Week

Taste of the Week
Badger & Dodo Columbian Coffee


No shortage of good coffees in the Cork area these days and this is the one I'm enjoying currently. It is from Columbia, San Pablo #1 Estate, and is Taste of the Week. Badger & Dodo roast this in Fermoy and I bought mine in Bradley's, North Main Street. A little bit of sweetness is evident here but it is really well balanced and a very pleasant coffee indeed.

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

The Dingle Taste Trail. Biggest in the land?

The Dingle Taste Trail

Biggest in the land?
Time to hit the Taste Trail.
No danger of going hungry on the streets of Dingle last weekend. No less than 81 outlets took part in the gigantic Taste Trail, a major feature of the annual Food Festival.

And it wasn't just food outlets. An Siopa Ceol, Liam O’Neill Art Studio (where Derry Clarke served up the local Mutton pie) and Dingle Crystal were among those in the merry mix.

And what a mix! Your tokens (or cash) could buy you anything from a Shark Snack to a Pumpkin Soup, from Vegetarian Sushi to those mutton Pies, from a Dublin Coddle to Dingle Fudge. Not to mention a full range of drinks, including local spirits (Dingle Distillery) and local beer (Tom Crean Brewery).
So where to start? The highly rated Out of the Blue was our first port of call and here we enjoyed their shark bites. Tasty stuff. From a nearby wagon, we got some fish on a skewer.

Time then for a glass (or more) of wine at An Siopa Ceol where Karwig Wines rep Frank conducted a band of enthusiasts through a quartet of whites. The opening wine, a “spritzy” Vinho Verde, provided a cheerful allegro. He brought us down to andante then with a duo of Italians, Passarina and Pradalupo. And the finish, a golden 2007 Monbazillac by Chateau Belingard, was dolcissimo. Bravo Frank.

That pleasant interlude behind us, we hit the trail again. Big queues at Fenton’s for their Dexter mini-burgers and at Finn McCools/Bushtucker Meats for the kangaroo. The vegetarian Raclette at the Little Cheese Shop was causing a lot of oohs and aahs as we passed.

The Karwig Quartet at An Siopa Ceol
 Time now for a pause and a sit-down at the Pie Cafe. Here I enjoyed a Sweet and Savoury Pie and a pot of tea. The Cornish Pasty had one half filled with venison in red wine and chocolate, the other with raspberry and strawberry. Super. Must remember to add this place to my list of Irish Tea Rooms.


We thought we had all the market stalls covered during our morning ramble but, just off Main Street, we stumbled on another packed section in a cul de sac where we said a quick bon jour to Laurent of Buffalolo. The highlight here was a superb Venison Sausage with a blackcurrant mustard by local butcher Jerry Kennedy.


At the Pie Cafe
 Retraced our steps to Main Street and headed down to John Street where we had another top class treat, a buckwheat crepe filled with goats cheese and sun-dried tomatoes at the Creperie Ti Koz.


Didn't have the Breton cider there but, back on the sunny street, the need for a drink asserted itself. An Canteen was (and always had been) our destination of choice.


Classy crepe

The street outside was packed and it looked impossible to get in. But there was no bother. It was just that the punters had moved out to get the sun. At the temporary bars set up around the small restaurant space, craft producers such as Franciscan Well, Porterhouse, Mountain Man, and Tempted? were selling their tasty wares.

Met Daniel Emerson (Stonewell) and Sam Black (Kinsale) and they gave me a sample of a cider and beer mix that they have been collaborating on. When I asked what they were calling the tasty drop, full of flavour and strong at 15% or so, they chimed W.I.P. (work in progress!). Worth keeping an eye on.

A shower brought the crowd back into An Canteen. The rain didn't last too long and soon we were looking for something sweet to finish the tour on. Murphy’s Ice Cream was to be our final stop and here I enjoyed their Atlantic Caramel (honeycomb and butterscotch ice cream). A sweet finalé indeed.

See also: Dingle Distillery Tour and My Dingle Food Experience


The Murphy's menu.


Monday, October 6, 2014

The Dingle Distillery Tour. Well worth ten of your euros!

The Dingle Distillery Tour
Well worth ten of your euros!


Welcome to the Dingle Distillery
 When you arrive at the Dingle Distillery, just west of the town, you’ll want to look inside. But your guide Joe tells you to look outside. “Look through the gates there,’” he says, then directs your gaze further out to the mouth of the harbour. It is, even on a dull day, a pretty picture and one that appears on the Dingle bottles.

It doesn't appear yet on their whiskey bottles, the reason being that their irish whiskey is not yet on sale. By law, Irish whiskey (spelt with an e) must mature for three years and one day. That period will be up for Dingle at the end of next year but it could be well into 2016 before Dingle Whiskey appears on the shelves, joining the gin and vodka which are now available and bringing badly needed revenue into the fledgling operation.

Joe took us, a small international group, though the history of the liquid. His story says it was “invented”, though more likely a happy accident, around the time of Christ. The Irish may well have been the first in the Northern Hemisphere to distil it though the first written reference to it here does not appear until 1405.


It is often claimed, and Joe endorsed it, that the word whiskey comes from the Irish word for water which is uisce. Uisce beatha is the Irish name for whiskey and this translates as water of life and has many equivalents (eg aqua vitae) in European languages.

Joe reckons the Norman invaders couldn't quite pronounce uisce (maybe they were drinking too much!) and changed it to whiskey. No shortage of humour when Joe’s your guide. He recalled an old Irish saying: “When you’re well, whiskey makes you sick; when you’re sick, whiskey makes you well.” Whiskey making though is no joke. “If things go wrong, you could end up with porridge.”

He took us through the technical details of the process as we walked around, telling us that towards the end, the alcohol count is in the high 70s, early 80s. The strength is reduced by adding water before bottling.

The process here follows the usual Irish practice.”Triple distillation gives a very smooth whiskey, much smoother than the Scotch which is double distilled.”

Spirit stills
 Dingle buy in Ethanol to make their gin and vodka (not Joe’s favourite drink: “does nothing for me”). This is already distilled four times. Dingle distil it one more time and, in the case of the gin, add in their own botanicals (which he didn't disclose!).

Gin, he told us, is a Dutch (not a British) invention and that is why we get the term Dutch courage for alcohol induced bravery. This was just one of a few explanations. He also had one for the term Blind Drunk, no laughing matter. Drinking methanol, one type of alcohol, will literally turn you blind.

Our tasting was of the Gin and Vodka (both in attractive distinctive bottles) and we got a few tips but generally the talk was of whiskey. Joe emphasized the importance of the casks but cautioned that to get good stuff out, you had to put good stuff in.


The cask of choice currently is one that had been previously used for Bourbon, Sherry or Port. We were able to taste some of the immature whiskey, including some at 20 months, and could get the flavour of whatever had been in the cask previously.

Quite a few people have invested in the distillery through buying a cask of the whiskey for the future and these casks are named and stored here. In addition, there is an internal wall where the names of the founding fathers are displayed.

It looks like they have made a wise investment. Joe says that there is a renaissance of interest in whiskey worldwide. Quoting from the New York Times, he said the foxy lady (a name sometimes used for the liquid) is appreciating in value at a higher rate than gold!

And that was it, tour over. On the way down, ex cop Joe said: “Drop into the office and I’ll take ten of your euros off you.” Well worth it Joe. Thanks for the entertaining and informative tour.

I was in Dingle for the Blas na hEireann Awards and the Food Festival. Read all about it here. The Taste Trail was another highlight of the weekend.