Eating and Shopping in Connemara. Joyce Country. Day 3

Connemara Day 3

Coast Drive - Spiddal Shopping Spree - Joyce Country - Sky Road - Mitchell’s Fish Special

A boat waits for better weather on the River Bealanabrack at Maam

A super fish meal at Mitchell’s in Clifden, eased down with a beautiful bottle of Chateau la Brie (Bergerac), was the highlight of this sometimes misty day in Connemara. The wine is mistakenly listed as Bordeaux on the list but this mix of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc could easily pass among a bunch of the uppity neighbours to the west.

A very high standard was set with the starters. Mine was the fantastically flavoured Grilled Oranmore Oysters, with parmesan and cream, while CL raved over her Tian of local crab, avocado, caramelized apple, vine tomato salsa.

No let up with the superb main courses: Pan fried Wild Monkfish and mussels, cream cauliflower, spring onion, caper and lemon butter and the Pan Fried Haddock, Killary Mussels, Cauliflower puree, caper and lemon butter. And even the sides, boiled potatoes and vegetables, were superb.

The final decision of the meal was to to split one dessert and this was the most gorgeous Banana and Belgian Chocolate Nut Pudding with Lemon Meringue ice-cream and hot chocolate ganache.

Mitchell’s, where unusually all the front of house are male, regularly top the restaurants lists in Clifden and I'm now adding a Very Highly Recommended. And a warning to book early!

Tasty crumble at Spiddal cafe

Went on something of a shopping spree at the Ceardlann in Spiddal earlier. Started with a sweet pastry treat at the highly recommended Builín Blasta, the cafe in the craft village. Good coffee and a very tasty Plum Crumble set me up for the shopping.

Not all the shops were open but quite a few were and it was great to meet and chat with the craftspeople and artists. We did the rounds twice and ended up with a couple of bags of jewelry, glassware by Sue Donnellan and also some ceramic pieces from Sliding Rock. And absolutely no regrets.

On the contrary, it is fabulous to be able to buy local and support our hard-working talented craftspeople. Buying local is generally termed as buying local food but it should apply to everything we can produce, provided it is sold at a fair price. Buy local, buy fair.

Looking forward to giving out a few presents when I get back and also to seeing some of the stuff mounted on the walls at home. If you are in the Galway area, do try and visit. Very Highly Recommended.

It took us quite a while to get to Spiddal. After the sunshine of the past two days, we set off in a persistent mist. Still, that didn't stop us from heading to the limits of the coast. Drove around the loop from Glinsk to the sea and back to Carna. Tough country here. Fields of boulders and hard for the few cattle to find firm ground and a square of grass.

By the way, an attraction (it has many) of Galway is that it is one of the most accessible places in Ireland to see, close up, farm animals and their young: Cattle, Ponies, Donkeys, Goats, Sheep and, of course, lots of Connemara lambs.

After Carna, we headed off to the islands, at least the islands linked by bridges: Leitir Móir and Leitir Meallain. Quite spectacular, even if the drizzle was never that far away.

The mist was easing off after Spiddal and, instead of going underground (as originally planned) to the Glengowla mines near Oughterard, we headed to Maam Cross and up to the Joyce Country. Barren mountains and lakes surrounded us as we drove on past Maam itself and then down into Leenane, following the same valley whose flanking hills then enclose the famous fjord.

Clifden in the evening

Back then to Clifden but not before taking one more turn (for old time's sake) on the Sky Road. It might have been dull but the drive was still a delight. A wee rest and it was off to Mitchell’s to enjoy the last big meal of the trip.

Must say also that our base in the Dun Ri guesthouse was excellent. Very central, very comfortable, and a good breakfast every morning and a friendly chat or two thrown in, sometimes with the owners, sometimes with the other guests (one a winemaker from Wisconsin), or with both. Check it out!

Connemara Day 1
Connemara Day 2

A different view of Kylemore Abbey

Amuse Bouche

‘Have you seen this guy’s foam shit?’ I asked, talking about Ferran Adria’s restaurant of the minute, El Bulli, in Spain.

‘That foam guy is bogus,’ he smirked, ‘I ate there, dude - and it’s like...shock value. I had seawater sorbet!’

….

I wanted to know what he likes to eat, ‘You know, after hours, you’re half in the bag and you get hungry. What do want to eat?’

‘Beef bourguignon,’ he said right away.

I’ve found common ground. Red wine, beef, some button mushrooms and  a few pearled onions, bouquet garni, maybe some broad noodles or a simple boiled potato or two to go with it. A crust of bread to soak up the sauce. Maybe I’m not wrong about everything.

All cooks are sentimental fools.

And in the end, maybe it is all about the food.

from Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain

Spectacular Connemara

Connemara Day 2

Killary Harbour

Connemara National Park - Kylemore Abbey & Walled Garden - Drive to Leenane - Lough Inagh - Roundstone - Ballyconneely - Mitchell’s Restaurant.

Lough Inagh

An action packed day in Connemara. You could perhaps leave out the action but it was surely packed and we deserved our lovely evening meal at Mitchell’s in Clifden. When we left Clifden in the morning, a soft mist was falling but that had more or less vanished by the time we reached Letterfrack and pulled into the Connemara National Park. 

A tangle of trees in Connemara National Park

Some impressive items in the Visitor Centre, including a pine tree trunk that has been carbon dated to 8,600 years ago. There are quite a few walks here, one that takes you right to the top of Diamond Hill. But we took a shorter one and admired that landmark from a distance. We also has some great views over to the sea, including Inishbofin Island.

Part of Ireland's largest walled garden in Kylemore

Salmon and Spinach Quiche at Kylemore cafe

Next stop was Kylemore Abbey, the scene of an 19th century love story between Mitchel Henry and his wife Margaret for whom he built Kylemore as a residence. But she died prematurely in Egypt and the fun and games (shooting, fishing, billiards, even Turkish baths) stopped. He built a gothic church in her memory and eventually joined her in a mausoleum that, like the church, still stands.

In 1920, the residence was bought by the Benedictine nuns and became an abbey. And the tour reveals many links between Ireland and Ypres in Belgium where the nuns came from.

Well known Connemara scene, with some of the Twelve Pins behind.

The nuns also ran a boarding school (recently closed) and are now restoring the very impressive Victorian walled garden that Henry built. It is the largest such garden in Ireland and if you are caught for time when visiting Kylemore, make the garden your priority! It is a twenty minute walk but there is a shuttle bus. We had a nice lunch in the Mitchell’s Kylemore cafe and you’ll also find a spectacularly situated tea house up by the walled gardens.

On exiting the abbey, turn left and head for Leenane and a special drive, starting with lakes and mountains to your right. Changes then to bogs and mountains before you drop down towards Leenane getting spectacular views of Killary Harbour, Ireland’s only fjord, on the way. Well worth the trip, even if you turn back in Leenane.

Evening in Roundstone

We did turn back and picked up the road to Lough Inagh. Not very well known but many say it is a must visit. Surrounded by mountains, it is certainly a beautiful place. Continued on to the main road back to Clifden and found the well known waters, with the Twelve Pins behind, on the right. It is one of the most photographed sights here so I just added to the statistics as you can see above.

We then drove down to Roundstone and its harbour with the same mountains in the background. Lovely spot but the Post Office, on the main street, could badly do with a coat of paint! Next stop was Ballyconneely and its fish smokery. Soon we were back in our Dun Ri base in Clifden.

Dinner was firmly on the agenda and we booked a table at a pretty busy Mitchell’s in the middle of the town. This was a major step-up on the previous evening. We picked from the three course menu for 25.95. A massive bowl of well made chowder got me on my way while CL enjoyed a Cod and Salmon Fish Cake (Chilli, Fig and Apricot Chutney).

Good choice of mains and I was very well pleased with my Baked Hake, dressed Savoy Cabbage, Crispy Bacon and Mustard Cream with a side of boiled potatoes. Really top notch. CL appreciated the quality of her Mitchell's Fish Bake, locally sourced white fish "fused" with melted leeks and a light topping of house mash. Quite a lot of good stuff!

Desserts were nothing to write home about, so we won’t. Overall though, it was excellent and we booked again for the next night.
Connemara Day 1
Connemara Day 3

Connemara. Day 1

Connemara
Day 1
The Sky Road - Clifden - Cleggan - Oughterard - Lough Corrib - Ross Lake

The Sky Road

Day 1

A drive along the Sky Road, out of Clifden, was the highlight of our opening day in Connemara. There is an Upper and Lower Sky Road (they form a loop) but it seems the upper one is more rewarding. Some spectacular views, under a mix of blue and grey skies, unfolded as we headed west and quite a few photo stops were made.

Decided then to head for Cleggan and saw the ferry from Inishbofin coming in. Had thought of having some food in Oliver’s in the village but it looks as if it’s weekends only for the time being so we headed back to our base, Dun Ri in Hulk Street in Clifden. Must ask our hosts how the street name came about!

Ross Lake, near Moycullen

The day had started under a grey sky in Cork and we saw hopeful streaks of blue as we headed north and west. The journey was quite uneventful and we reached our first scheduled stop in Oughterard on time. After a cup of tea and a scone at a local cafe, the Boat Inn, we headed for nearby Lough Corrib, the republic’s largest lake.

And very impressive it was. Coming from Galway, you turn right, in the middle of Oughterard, and soon you are on the banks of the lake. We made one or two stops but the best viewing point is about eight kilometres out the road. Here you get an idea of the size of the lake and see some of its many islands. This is a dead end so head back to the town which, by the way, is home to McGeough's, well known for their air dried meats.

Lough Corrib

If you look at the map of Connemara you’ll see that it is dotted with many small lakes.  We saw quite a few as we headed west to Clifden. A Thursday night in early April in Connemara is fairly quiet, as you might expect.

Still Guy’s Bar, where I enjoyed one of their Gourmet Pizzas (their breaded Lemon Sole wasn’t as well appreciated), was busy enough, with French and American visitors among the guests. Mannion’s was another bar serving food and here I sipped the final pint of the day before strolling down to Dun Ri and waking up the Apple Mac with these few paragraphs.

Connemara Day 2
Connemara Day 3

Pizza Gourmet: Caramelised onion, blue cheese and rosemary

Dine in Style at the Cork International Airport Hotel

Dine in Style at Cork International Airport Hotel

Spiced Beef

The New Yorker at the Cork International Airport Hotel is one of the most stylish restaurants in the city and also one of the best. Comfort and service levels are very high here and so too is the cuisine under Hugh Bailey and Stuart Dardis.

The restaurant and bar area is very spacious and that means room to stretch your legs and relax as you study the menu, a menu refreshed by daily specials. I started with one of the regular items: a superb assemblage of Cork's Own Spiced Beef, dressed leeks and shavings of Hegarty’s Cheddar. Looked well and tasted even better.

The other starter was one of the specials: A Tian of crab with Pineapple and chili salsa and avocado and creme fraiche. One of the best crab dishes I've come across recently. Other starters included Oysterhaven Chowder, Goat Cheese Tart, Crispy Duck Spring Rolls and Classic Caesar Salad and a selection of Manhattan Salads.

On to the mains then and again there was a very good choice. Lots of local fish on the South Street Seaport section of the menu including Fish and Chips and the suggested drink here is the local Stonewell Cider. However, we bought from the Meatpacking District and bought well, I might add!

Tian of crab

For me it was the Char grilled Angus 8 oz steak (25.50) with roasted tomato, braised field mushroom, glazed shallots, chunky chips and a choice of sauces. Perfectly cooked and totally tender, this was just what the doctor ordered. Fitted the bill perfectly after a “hard” works reunion the night before!

The other mains on the spacious table was the Lamb Shank Tagine (16.50) with couscous, mint yoghurt and pomegranate, another superb dish.

Desserts, aside from the cheese plate, are all 5.75, and the two that we enjoyed were the Wild Berry Vanilla Baked Cheesecake and the Lemon Meringue Pie with Mango Foam.

The wine, their Wine of the Month, was the J Moreau et Fils Pinot Noir (2012) described as a wine “which is easily enjoyed on its own or with a wide variety of foods from fish to chicken, pork and red meats”. Worked out very well for us, very enjoyable.

Lamb Tagine

After the meal, we were given a tour of the hotel by Avril Ring, the Food and Beverage Manager. The new owners are certainly making a big impression and, if you are a local like me and haven't been here for a couple of years, I’d certainly recommend a visit.

If you are coming to stay in Cork, then the hotel is well worth considering as it is well placed for city and, with the South Ring Road close by, for East Cork, and especially for Kinsale and points further west. Check out the packages (family, golf, fly/drive etc) here.

The ground floor lobby is really bright and welcoming. If you're waiting for someone to arrive or maybe relaxing after a meeting, sit back in the comfortable seats, and there is no shortage, read the paper or admire the decor. And if you're there on Friday night, then you’ll have live piano music.

The lobby used to be upstairs but is now much better placed to welcome guests. Other changes for the better include a new private function area, a carvery and a breakfast room, all with a built in flexibility that allows management to enhance the services to customers.

Juicy steak!

That same flexibility applies to function (weddings, banquets) and meeting rooms (conferences). The rooms can cater for anything from two people to three hundred and fifty.  

These rooms also illustrate a shift in the image of the hotel.  From the outset you knew you were in a airport hotel with many reminders of life in the air around the place and much of that remains.

The new theme though is cities, hence the New Yorker. Many of the rooms are now named after individual cities. For instance, one of the smaller meeting rooms that we saw was Dubai and that had a picture of one of the rather unusual buildings for which Dubai is famous.

Cheesecake

And, if you've arrived from a city centre hotel in Paris or Rome, you won't believe the amount of space you'll have in your bedroom. They have 140 of them, ranging from standard to large family (two bathrooms, one for the teens!). And the younger kids are really well catered for. There have their own cinema and a lovely play room.

And if you're here for a month's work (maybe in the Airport Business Park) then check out the four apartments. Massive and home from home!

All in all, the new investment is showing up well. The investment is not just in bricks and mortar. All the staff we have come across seem proud to be part of the team and are looking forward to the future, secure in the knowledge that more investment and improvement are on the way.

Already it is one of the leading hotels in the area and I would certainly recommend a visit to check it out. And do have a bite to eat while you're there!

Lemon Meringue Pie

Amuse Bouche

Then it was off to enjoy the Breakfast with the Stars. Beautifully laid tables stretched for half a mile each side of the winning post, ten people to a table. It is a tradition that has quickly become a part of the meeting and adds to the atmosphere. Here Tommy and people like him greeted old friends from all over the world. It was like an Old Boys’ reunion, meeting up again with trainers, owners, jockeys, press and racing dignitaries.

from Kinane, A Remarkable Racing Family, by Anne Holland.

In Praise of East Cork. Well Worth a Visit!

In Praise of East Cork. 
Well Worth a Visit!

Friendly people, great food, attractions, on land and sea, both natural and man-made, make East Cork a gem of a place to visit. From the fantastic 13th century St Mary’s Collegiate Church in Youghal to high class Fota House Gardens and Arboretum, with Barryscourt Castle in between, all free to enter, there is a treasure chest of places to visit in the area.

Cliff walk (and lighthouse in distance) at Ballycotton

Let me take you on a trip to see part of it. We’ll also enjoy some delicious as East Cork is a foodie’s paradise with top notch restaurants including Barnabrow  (ideal for a Sunday lunch), Midleton’s pioneering Farmers Market and the food mecca of Ballymaloe.

Ballymaloe

Coming from the city on the main Cork-Waterford road, take the Cobh exit ramp and head for breakfast at Bramley Lodge.  Now, set up for the morning, go over the nearby bridge to Fota Island and its many attractions.

If you have kids, go the Wildlife Park; if not, walk through the renowned Fota Arboretum  and maybe add a tour of the Georgian House. If you like it around here, you may also try the high class  Fota Island Hotel and Golf Resort.

Sailing ship at Cobh, exactly where the liners dock in summer.

Moving on, go over the Belvelly Bridge and you find yourself on Great Island where the cathedral town of Cobh is situated. Much to do here including the Sirius Art Gallery, walking tours (including the Titanic Trail and Spike Island), harbourside bars and restaurants and of course the Cobh Heritage Centre which tells of forced deportations  and also the tales of the ill fated liners, The Titanic and the Lusitania. Cruise liners now call here regularly during the season, with a carnival atmosphere in the town on the days they are in port.

Time now to head out of the islands, maybe call to the Bakestone Cafe at Ballyseedy (Cobh Cross) for a tasty bite to eat before heading east for Midleton and a tour of the Jameson Experience. If you give the right answers here, you’ll end up with a certificate of proficiency in Whiskey!

Roche's Point, worth a detour.

You may have lunch at the distillery cafe here. Quite a few others to choose from but I have a particular in Kevin Ahern's Sage and his amazing 12-mile menu.

There will be detours, of course. One that I like is off the Whitegate road, out of Midleton. Look out for the signs for East Ferry and enjoy a walk by the estuary and maybe reward yourself with a well cooked meal at Murph’s, a restaurant with a lovely view.

Next stop though is Ballymaloe, the home of modern Irish food. You could spend a day here. Maybe an overnight stay to sample the world renowned cooking. Be sure to take a look at the impressive Cookery School gardens and call to the cafe for a mid afternoon or mid morning  coffee. The cafe at the Stephen Pearse pottery in Shanagarry is now gaining quite a reputation.

Youghal has many miles of beaches. Many more all along the East Cork coast.

In the nearby seaside village of Ballycotton, take a stroll down to the pier and see the fishermen come and go. If you feel you need to stretch the legs, then there is a spectacular walk along the cliff tops. After all that exercise, treat yourself to a gorgeous meal at Pier 26.

Time now for dinner. If heading back towards the city and make a stop at the estuary village of Glounthaune and the Rising Tide Bar Bistro. Enjoy your meal here, as Lady Gaga did, and take time for a deserved pint in the bar afterwards. If heading east, then you’ll find a lovely cafe called Sage or a fine seafood meal at Aherne’s, both in Youghal. Maybe you'd like to rest up for the night and have a meal in the Old Imperial Hotel on the main street, maybe just a drink in its old Coachhouse bar.

Fresh fish at Ballycotton's Pier 26

Tokay, the sweet and the dry of it!

Tokay, the sweet and the dry of it!

Patricius Tokaj Leonis Selection, Tokaji Furmint 2011 (Hungary), 13.5%, €14.15 Karwig Wine.

When the sommelier at the Cliff House produced a Tokay to go with the starter recently, I briefly looked a little puzzled but he quickly assured me this was a dry white! Tokay is of course better known to you and me as a beautiful sweet dessert wine which is made from the Furmint grape. Whites, made mainly from the same Furmint, are of increasing importance in the Tokaji region (close to the Ukrainian border) of Hungary. Tokaj is the name of the town while Tokay is the English version.

Aside from the curiosity value, this is quite a good wine and Highly Recommended. Colour is a light gold and the aromas are inviting. Excellent fruit flavours and rather intense, it has an oily mouthfeel and a good strong finish.

The Furmint is, of course, not the only famous dessert wine grape to have a dry version. Two  years back, I was looking for a Pedro Ximenez (PX) in town when I came across a very nice dry style from Chile, a Decanter award winner. You may check it out here.

International Wine and Food Society

International Wine and Food Society 10th April – 7:30PM “Celebrating Local Tastes” L’Atitude 51 (opposite City Hall)

Join us for the first event in 2014 of the Munster Branch of the International Wine and Food Society.
This informal and fun evening will include finger food carefully prepared using ingredients from some of the best local suppliers and accompanied by a selection of wines carefully selected by proprietors and wine enthusiasts Beverly Mathews and Emmanuelle Legrand.
The International Wine and Food Society is for people with a shared passion for food, wine and fun! The event is open to members, guests and those interested in joining the society.
Cost: 20 Euro’s per person (payable on the night)
To book please confirm directly:
info@latitude51.ie 

Taste of the Week

Taste of the Week

A few weeks back, I got a sample of Clonakilty Chocolate from the Fresh from West Cork stall in the English Market. Allison Roberts is making some gorgeous bars in Clon and has Easter treats (eggs and bunnies) on the way.

Allison, a member of the town's Fair Trade committee, is committed to producing her chocolate ethically and also to producing a top class product. She has over a dozen bars on the market with prices ranging from €2.50 to €3.00. Flavours include Orange Crunch, Milky Bar, Snow White, Decadent Dark and Espresso.

I got a bunch of them the other day and so far, the favourite is the 70% Pink Himalayan Salt. Mind you, there's just a pinch of the salt but it makes a difference. It is a delightful bar and is our Taste of the Week. Looking forward to having fun exploring the others. Might even get myself an Easter treat!

Read all about Allison and Clonakilty Chocolate here and don't overlook the report on her trip to Ghana. We’ve had lots of heroes in Irish food in recent decades.  Allison and fellow chocolatier Shana Wilkies of Midleton are among a new wave.

Sugar & Spice and all things nice. Your dish, please!

On a Roll with Reds

On a Roll with Reds

I seem to be on a roll with my reds recently while not doing so well with the whites. The two reds below come from either side of the Pyrenees and each is Very Highly Recommended.

Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva 2008, 13.5%, on offer at €20.49 (usually price €23.49) Bradley’s Off Licence

The Frank Gehry designed hotel at Riscal HQ is an iconic building and this 2008 Reserva is one of their iconic wines. The grapes, mainly Tempranillo (with small amounts of Graciano and Mazuelo) are hand-picked and the wine spent 26 months in American oak.

The ripe fruit aromas are quite intense and it has a lively cherry red colour. It is fresh on the palate, the tannins soft and round. It is light and vibrant, tasty and well balanced with a persistent finish. Restrained, refined and Very Highly Recommended.

Chateau du Donjon, Cuvée Prestige, Minervois 2009, 14%, €18.46 Karwig Wines

Colour here is medium red. You’ll find red fruit aromas, though not very intense. But, on the palate, you immediately sense that this is a red of the south of France, from the hot limestone slopes of the Languedoc. Full bodied, supple and spicy, and fruity (plums, for sure), the shake-hands is firm and this rich wine lingers. A blend of Syrah (60%) and Grenache Noir, it is made by traditional methods, has spent 12 months in oak and is also Very Highly Recommended.