Friday, December 27, 2013

Electric. Easy to Book. Hard to Leave.


Electric. Easy to Book. Hard to Leave.
Halloumi
It was a busy holiday lunch-time in Electric. But all was calm, bright too for a spell with the brown river surging by outside in the south channel. The calmness inside though had nothing to do with the weather, just the efficiency of the team in this popular South Mall Restaurant. Busy as they were, they got it all right at our table. I hesitate to use the word efficient as it sometimes comes with a “clinical” or/and “cold” attached. Here, it was warm, efficient yes but with time for a chat.

Indeed, the calmness starts with the Electric booking procedure, even if you are dealing with an electronic system (you do of course have the option of picking up the phone and talking to one of the staff). Otherwise, using your phone, tablet or laptop, just fill a few boxes (name, number of diners, date and time) and you have instant confirmation of your table and a reference number. The system is easy.


Before I fall into the trap of telling you all about the place and little about the meal, I'd better get on to the grub. My date was towards the end of the holiday rush but none of the Christmas cliches appeared on the regular menu. Must say that the lunch menu is quite varied and very well priced; the “Little Bites” are tempting and especially good value; the mains follow suit. You may have three courses for €21.00 and may also “swap” starter or dessert for a glass of wine.
Chargrilled Aubergine and Courgette Tarte Tatin
My Little Bite, actually it was quite a decent sized starter, was the Lamb Tagine. It came in its own pot with lid and was superb, a terrific balanced mix of top notch well-cooked lamb, chunky apricot and veg and a lively spice (nothing extremely hot at all). Wouldn't mind trying that as a main course!

Our other Little Bite was the Electric Fish Paté, a very flavoursome tub of white crab meat with some nicely toasted breads. Quite a bit of eating in that tub but it was a delicious delight!


And the high standard continued into the main courses, both vegetarian by the way. Myself and Halloumi have been seen a lot together recently and the love affair intensified at Electric thanks to this combination: Grilled Halloumi Salad, with winter root vegetables (mainly butternut squash, carrot, celery), toasted almonds and sweet pear dressing. Full of colour, textures and flavours, this was a superb dish from start to finish.
Tagine
Chargrilled Aubergine and Courgette Tarte Tatin with sun dried tomato, feta cheese and pesto dressing was our other mains and this too was very impressive, another very well judged dish. Looked well, tasted well.

Thanks to Head Chef Leona Robinson, Restaurant Manager Triona Hennessy and all the team at Electric for a lovely Christmas lunch! Happy New Year to you all.
Electric details
Lunch/All Day Menu
Mon-Sun 12.00pm - 6.30pm
Dinner Menu
Sun-Wed 5.00pm – last orders 9.00pm
Thur-Sat 5.00pm – last orders 10.00pm
20% of our tables are available for walk-in customers.
41 SOUTH MALL, CORK, IRELAND
[T] +353 21 4222 990
[E] Info@ElectricCork.com (GENERAL)
[E] ElectricBookingManager@Gmail.com
(BOOKINGS)
Previous Reviews
For more, simply enter Electric into search box at top left.




Monday, December 23, 2013

Saturday, December 21, 2013

Amuse Bouche

My fondest memories of home during my childhood are of Christmas time. Christmas began early in our house. It began really with baking the Christmas cake. My mother would get a store of currants, raisins, candied peel, nutmeg and other spices, and the day of baking the cake was a big day. We gathered round the table as she mixed the ingredients, and there was a lovely aroma. When the cake went into the oven we all had to be really quiet, because we understood that if we made any noise, the cake would fall. It was very exciting, seeing the cake come out of the oven – and there was that gorgeous smell.

from The Road Home by Sister Stanislaus Kennedy.

Friday, December 20, 2013

Happy New Beer! Mayfield’s Cotton Ball. Ireland’s Latest Micro Brewery

Happy New Beer!

Mayfield’s Cotton Ball. Ireland’s Latest Micro Brewery
Forward planning. Jack Lynch in the Cotton Ball Brewery.
Months of research and hard work paid off this week when Ireland’s newest craft beers began to flow at the Cotton Ball Brewery in Mayfield.  The Cotton Ball pub, under which the brewery is built, was the venue for an early tasting of Lynch’s Lager, called after the family that founded the pub back in 1874.

While touring the new facility yesterday with Jack Lynch, I was shown a number of barrels previously used by Jack Daniels (and to be used in the future for a Lynch special brew). At least one of the barrels, Number 59, is stamped with the name of the American distillery and the address is Lynchburg, Tennessee, and that is one of the places where Jack Lynch’s grandfather, Humphrey, worked while in the United States in the 19th century. And it is Jack's son, Humphrey, who is the Cotton Ball brewer.
A lot of lager here!
More beers are planned but, for now, there are just two, a Lynch Lager and a Lynch Stout, and these are exclusively available at the bar and at a very good price, I might add! My first venture was a pint of the lager. It is superb, full of great flavour and with a good cut in the finish. 
Christmas Stout

The Stout (left) is also excellent, flavour, smoothness and a long dry finish the striking characteristics. You get the hints of your old toffee bar in the aromas and on the palate and the flavours last, still a pleasure well after the swallow. Both beers are available on draught at the bar but you can expect to see them in bottles sometime in 2014.

Aside from the special, an Ale is planned for the New Year and should make an appearance as the Spring kicks in. And there are also plans to increase the food element at the Cotton Ball and indeed produce specially matched bites for the beers.

This barrell has quite an aroma, all the way from Lynchburg to Lynch's!
The brewery will be officially launched on January 25th (6.00pm to 9.00pm) when you may try the new pints, enjoy the music and the new food menu.

Just to go back to Humphrey and his working trip to America. One of the souvenirs he brought back was a full size Stars and Stripes with 39 stars on it. This is an oddity as there were never 39 states in the union. The legend in the photo says the flag manufacturers took a gamble thinking that the Dakotas would be admitted as one state but instead North and South Dakota simultaneously joined the union as two separate states, taking the numbers from 38 to 40.
The 39 star flag
The flag is displayed in one of the loveliest corners of the Mayfield pub, a corner that Jack says will now be called the Brewery Room and one that will contain quite a lot of Brewing memorabilia in the months ahead. 

Must say I am looking forward to visiting on a regularly basis to keep an eye on what Jack and his sons Eoin and Humphrey are bringing up from underneath. It is no great hardship to me. The walk is short and the beer is good. Happy New Beer!

The "Brewery" room, just one of many cosy sections in the Cotton Ball
Lynch’s Stout
Hand crafted from 5 malts and traditional flaked barley. Bittered moderately with American and New Zealand hops. Late kettle hopped with premium Kentish aroma hops beer. Warm matured on the same aromatic hops, after which the beer is cold matured on Jack Daniels impregnated American oak.
The result
A phenomenal marriage of coffee roast, caramel, lush, balanced by a clean bitterness exploding into a tangerine, mandarin aromatic delivery with the faintest hint of oak.



Lynch’s Lager
Pilsner lager made with 100% Cork malted barley ,is clean Bittered with Columbus and galena U.S.A grown hops. Late kettle addition of hallertãu perle and hersbruker, fermented with our rapidly settling yeast strain. With a proven record of making clean cut pilsner lagers portraying the individual hop aromas from New Zealand to Norway and the east and west of Europe.
The result
Another unchallengeable quality lager delivering, subtle aromatic hop flavour and aroma from a bed of light malt caramel flavour with a thirst cutting clean bitterness.

Cotton Ball details:
18 Old Youghal Road, Mayfield
Cork Ireland
Phone  (021) 450 3096
Hours: 
Mon - Thu: 10:30 am - 11:30 pm
Fri - Sat: 10:30 am - 12:30 am
Sun: 12:30 pm - 11:00 pm

What is  your favourite Christmas Beer Moment? Some opinions here.
Irish beer fans can share their beer thoughts as well as keep up to speed on all This Is Beer news and events on www.facebook.com/thisisbeerIE


Thursday, December 19, 2013

Inviting Isaac’s

Inviting Isaac’s

It’s a cold crisp day in the city as we enter the warm buzz of Isaac's Restaurant in McCurtain Street. This place is one of the longest standing businesses in this city centre street and you get a hint of the reasons behind this relative longevity from the courtesy and warmth of the welcome. Indeed, the service overall for this lunch-time visit was friendly, chatty and efficient. And the food was excellent.


The restaurant was busy but they soon found us a table and the menus and the specials list were available without delay. So too was the water and some cracking brown bread. Quality is always good here and so too is the choice. The regular list is amply enhanced by the specials. These extras were available last Wednesday:


Celeriac and roast hazelnut soup €5.00


Pheasant and lentil soup €6.50


Smoked salmon with potato salad, mixed greens and horseradish cream €10.00


Crispy fried goat’s cheese with beetroot, roast red pepper & basil €9.50


Mild madras lamb curry with side dishes and poppadoms €15.00


Pan fried fillets of Cod with herb crust, buttered spinach and chive sauce €15.00

Prune and almond tart with fresh cream €6.00
It is, of course, the season for game so I decided to go for the Pheasant and Lentil Soup. The bowl was loaded with little bits of pheasant and it turned out to be a superb match with the lentils, and a body warming one as well, great flavour and texture.

The main course, that Mild Madras Curry, was something special. I got a dish of the loveliest lamb, well cooked and tender and no shortage of it. Three small dishes to dip into and a dish of rice were also served u,p along with a very tasty poppadum. Spent a good while at this, tried every combination of dip with the lamb, and enjoyed every bite.

Had my eye on that Prune and Almond Tart but, pleasantly full, decided that discretion was the better part of valour on this occasion. Very happy with what we'd had and had another chat on the way out as we settled up, €43.00 for two courses each. Very Highly Recommended!

Isaac’s Contact Details
Isaac’s Restaurant on McCurtain Street, has been a standard-bearer for good food in Cork for nearly 21 years. Established by Michael & Catherine Ryan & Canice Sharkey it has developed into a lively restaurant receiving great acclaim.


Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Last Minute Wine Suggestions

Last Minute Wine Suggestions
 Top one goes with "a variety of meats" - ideal for Christmas!

Tim Adams, Bluey’s Block Single Vineyard Grenache, Clare Valley 2009, 14.5%, €16.99 Curious Wines 



Colour is a very light red and the aromatics are pretty if restrained. The magic is on the palate. Fruity for sure but very very refined and so well balanced. It has of course, the typical spice of the variety and, what you might not expect, an ABV of 14.5%. Must say it was love at first bite (well, first sip) with this mouth filling beauty, with its subtle tannins (supple, the label says) and its long fruity driven finish. Goes with a variety of meats and is Very Highly Recommended.

Viñedos Iberian, Yaso, Tinta de Toro 2010, 13.5%, stockists 

Familia Osborne (of Sherry fame) owns Viñedos Iberian and this Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo to most of us!) is a classy bottle. Yaso comes from a selection of old vineyards in the Zamora region of the Toro DO. They’ve been growing vines here for over 2000 years and this is named after the Greek goddess of healing.



Not sure I needed any healing when I opened this red the other day but I sure felt good as the initial sips came in and better as the silky liquid reached all areas.  It has an intense concentration of red fruits – you see it in the bright cherry colour and catch it in the aromas – and it is prominent again on the long finish. Highly Recommended.

Kerpen Riesling 2010 (Blauschiefer, Bernkastel, Mosel), €17.52, Karwig Wines

This estate bottled Riesling is a my favourite of mine, confirmed as recently as last Sunday. It is bright with straw green colours and modestly aromatic. Ripe fruits reach all areas before a long dry finish. Luscious apple-ly fruits yet really well balanced and with a great texture. Good with fish with light sauces or on its own as an aperitif. Highly recommended, not for the first time!.

The vineyards are on the slopes of the River Mosel, a tributary of the Rhine.

Check out the full 2013 list of recommendations here 

Taste of the Week

Taste of the Week
Una's Pies are becoming widely available though it was from her regular Mahon Point Farmers Market stall that I bought this Chicken, Chorizo and pepper beauty, a real warmer-up on a cold winter's day and our Taste of the Week.

No wonder she has been picking up Blas na hEireann awards in Dingle for the past three years, including Artisan Producer of the Year in 2011. The pies are produced in Cork "with the finest Irish ingredients and using suppliers we know and trust". 

The chorizo in this one comes from Gubbeen and the pastry is absolutely gorgeous. A pie full of flavour and my current favourite. But that could change as Una has quite a list to choose from including Chicken,Leek and Cheese; Steak & Murphy's; Chicken Thai Green Curry; Chicken and Asparagus; Roast Veg and Goats Cheese; 4 Bean Chilli; and Chicken and Mushroom.

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Do you like black on your plate?

Colour barrier on a plate
A wee jar of Squid Ink.
Getaria. The shop is on the right!
Black is not a colour I'd normally see on my plate unless of course it is black pudding! Indeed, it can be hard to get over the colour barrier that a dominant black presents in a dish. And so it was with some trepidation that I screwed the cap off a small jar I bought the summer before last in a small town, Getaria, on the beautiful coast of North West Spain.

The label said, Salsa de Chipiron, and the gooey contents were pure black. Translated the ingredients and it read: Onion, Olive Oil, Water, Tomato, Squid Ink, salt and spices. But what to do with it? Squid ink is widely used (though not in Ireland) with pasta, noodles, rice and also with the squid itself, with cuttlefish and scallops.
Before
But this was late on a Saturday afternoon and a bit late to be wandering down town. So, we had to make do with what was in the cupboard. No fish but we did have fresh chorizo from Gubbeen and some pasta, enough to make a starter. Enough to be going on with. Soon the pasta was cooking and then came the transformation when the contents of the jar were added.


Some cut tomatoes were thrown in and the moment of truth soon followed and it was fine, really fine. The chorizo soaked up the ink and were hardly visible among the general blackness but you knew for sure when you bit into one. Overall, the flavour was very pleasant indeed, not at all fishy, and the spicy explosions of the chorizo rings enhanced the whole thing.


During
So, if you ever find yourself on the Basque coast, in either Getaria or Hondarribia, be sure and call into the shop of the family owned cannery Salanort. They also sell anchovies, bobito, tuna, octopus, sardines, and indeed some very good examples of the local wine, the very dry Txakoli.



After. Chorizo (centre left) well coated

Had to have a bit of colour after that and it is provided by the classic bacon and cabbage. The loin of bacon came from the local Dunne’s Stores, a fine piece by Truly Irish. The cabbage and potato cakes (a mix of normal and sweet) added to the colour and the enjoyment.


Colours of Ireland














Monday, December 16, 2013

Stop at Cafe Serendipity

Stop at Cafe Serendipity!
Not merely Bread & Butter Pudding
but a step up to Croissant & Butter Pudding!
Bailey’s Croissant and Butter Pudding with Creme Anglaise
Having a restaurant on the number 208 bus route became a priority for us on a wet and miserable Friday night. It wasn't the only consideration of course but when Cafe Serendipity came to mind, it was an agreed yes. Soon we were stepping off the bus at the Western Road stop alongside the River Lee Hotel and crossing the road to the welcoming lights of the cafe.


Our reservation was confirmed (the place was busy and would soon be full) and, without delay, we were at our table and studying the menu. We had been in before earlier in the year and once again were glad to see that they do things a little differently here (e.g. soup is cauliflower and blue cheese) and spent some time checking the choices as the guitarist began to play.


We didn’t take the soup option but picked the Grilled Halloumi with red and green pesto and fennel coleslaw and also the Crab and Black Pudding with summer salsa and lime jelly as our starters. Getting used to Halloumi lately, thanks to the folks at Toonsbridge Dairies, and this was excellent, very tasty and the fennel was a new touch. The other starter was not quite as successful as we felt that the delicate crab was a bit overwhelmed but still it was a flavoursome dish overall and the lime jelly was a tasty touch.


We could also have chosen the Smoked Chicken Salad or a Smoked Salmon Gratin. Service was excellent throughout, friendly and courteous and efficient, and we were not long in getting to grips with the main courses.

Mine was definitely the more eyecatching and it was the Confit of Duck Leg, chorizo croquette, baby carrots, asparagus, parsnip crisp and jus. Really enjoyed this one (above). The duck was perfect. so too were the vegetables, especially those little carrots, and the croquette was a flavoursome and slightly spicy treat.


Duck also featured on our other mains. Here it was shredded in a Duck and Pear Salad, served with mixed lettuce and Mediterranean vegetable. Duck and pear always go well together and the salad was excellent, well prepared. A fine combination that could also be served as a starter. Other choices included Sirloin, Smoked Chicken Risotto, Pan Fried Hake (with buckwheat), and a Provencal Goats Cheese Tart.


They had a short but tempting dessert list. They offered, not your common garden Bread and Butter Pudding, but a scrumptious step up in class to a Bailey’s Croissant and Butter Pudding with Creme Anglaise. Loved that!  

Duck and pear 
CL’s special was the Apple Crumble. But that belied its humble title and, with a gorgeous thin layer of crumble and a great depth of real apple, matched mine. Soon after, two happy customers departed Serendipity and even a walk (it had dried up) to the bus stop at back of the block didn't dampen the feeling. Indeed, it was enhanced when that sometimes elusive  number 208 turned up within seconds!


Quality at Cafe Serendipity is good and so too is the value, two courses for €23.00, three for €26.00. The wine list is rather short but most tastes are catered for with, for instance, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Rioja available to those who like reds.

Crumble

Cafe Serendipity

Western Road, Cork City
Mon: 8:00 am - 5:30 pm
Tue - Sat: 8:00 am - 5:30 pm, 6:00 pm - 9:30 pm

Phone
085 8645216 or 021 2410466
Email
serendipitycork@gmail.com
Website




Saturday, December 14, 2013

Amuse Bouche

This idiocy was not the end of my ambitions. I devised three fillets of different fish – say John Dory, monkfish and brill – cooked in three different ways: the John Dory sautéed in butter, the monkfish grilled over charcoal, the brill steamed. They were served with three different sauces: the John Dory with sautéed cucumber, the monkfish with a roasted red pepper dressing and the brill with a cream and sorrel sauce. All on the same plate.
When people ask me for a tip about seafood cookery, and I say ‘keep it simple’ it’s in the light of bitter experience.

from Under a Mackerel Sky by Rick Stein.

Thursday, December 12, 2013

Taste of the Week

Taste of the Week
Taste of the Week, maybe taste of this season, this cream sherry, cask aged for 30 years, is something well  suited to go with many of the sweet things coming your way. Produced in very small quantities, Matusalem is made by the enrichment of a dry Oloroso sherry with Pedro Ximenez, followed by additional ageing in its own solera. It has a mahogony tone, is quite sweet but with a superb balance. It is elegant and intense; both nose and palate have notes of raisins, toffee, figs,spices. Christmas in a glass. Cheers.
Produced by Gonzalez Byassm it is available at Bradley's Off Licence, North Main Street. Make sure you have the correct bottle (37.5 cl) as there is a rum of the same name! 

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

The Red Zone of the Loire


The Red Zone of the Loire
Underground in Chinon.
Read more about my 3 weeks in the Loire Valley here
Let me take you to the red zone of the Loire Valley. Let us start in Chinon, just west of Tours. Chinon (population c.16,000) is a lovely old town, full of history (Jean d’Arc, Eleanor of Aquitaine, Rabelais, etc…) and surrounded by vineyards, and is the heart of the appellation of the same name.

The appellation is situated mainly in the triangle formed as the Vienne and Loire rivers meet and also includes some communes to the south of the Vienne. And I’ve read in the latest Wine Atlas of the World (a terrific book) that some seven communes to the west of the Vienne are soon to be included.

Immediately north of the confluence of the two rivers you come to Bourgueil and appellations named after that town and its close neighbour St Nicolas. Wine is so important here that there is a huge wine bottle outside the church in St Nicolas and a huge bunch of grapes is a centrepoint on at least one roundabout..

The communes to the west of the Chinon appellation come under the general Touraine label and I’m sure that the seven mentioned in the Wine Atlas would jump at the chance to join up. Hopefully, Chateau du Petit Thouars will be included as they make some great wines from their Cabernet Franc, the red grape for both neighbouring Chinon and Bourgueil.

Domaine du Raifault, Clos du Villy, Chinon 2009, 12.5%, €7.60 at Caves de Montplaisir
Okay, let’s start at the heart of it, in Chinon itself. Along the bank of the Vienne on the road to the west, you’ll find the unusual wine cellar called Caves de Montplaisir.  The cellar, “unique in the Loire Valley, is a former underground quarry of over 2,500 square metres”. The tufa (a type of limestone) extracted was used to build many castles and manor houses in the region.

It is a pretty cool place in more senses than one! Indeed, there was one area where you need a brolly as the water drips through from the top of the town, many metres above. They were busy at reception when we arrived so we had our own little tour among the damp and mould inducing  “chambers”, passing much wine in storage including some 1977 Chinon and small lots dating back to 1947, 1921 and 1893.

But when it came to tasting and buying (they represent three growers), we came much more up to date and included this 2009 in our lot. It has excellent fruit flavours (with an almost silky mouthfeel) and well matched by a refreshing acidity, then a good long finish and overall is pretty typical of the Chinon reds. I've really gotten to like this grape and what they do with it where the Vienne and Loire meet.
Chateau du Petit Thouars, Selection 2009, Touraine, 12.5%, €5.00 at Chateau

This vineyard, situated in the area of St Germain sur Vienne, is outside the Chinon and Bourgueil appellations. It is owned by Sebastien du Petit Thouars - his winemaker is the experienced Michael Pinard - and is regularly regarded as a top producer (see High Johnson handbook 2014 for example).

This 2009 is quite aromatic, notes of red fruit evident. It has a lively refreshing palate with soft tannins and shows the ripe Cabernet Franc (in another good year here) at its best. And, at its best, it is a memorable glass indeed.

Domaine Thibault, Bourgueil 2005, 12%, €6.80 at Syndicat des Vins de Bourgueil.
After one of the quickest ever tasting sessions (about three minutes flat for six wines), we bought this Thibault at the local syndicate. From a good year, it is really smooth and velvety on the palate. Colour is light red and the nose is fruity with some spice. 
The domaine is certified biologique since the early 90s but organics have been in practice here since 1974. There are two types of soil in the area, one tuffeau (rocky), the other graviers (gravelly). This one comes from the rocky area but sometimes even locals find it hard to spot the difference in a blind tasting.

Domaine de la Closerie, Vielles Vignes, Bourgueil 2005, 13%, €8.00 at Syndicat des Vins de Bourgueil.
This was another purchase from the syndicat and another where the grapes were grown on the tuffeau. Another excellent buy, even if I say so myself! It is a "traditional wine of the estate, this is a very nice open nose and palate with aromas of red fruits". All that and more, underlining again the quality available in Bourgueil and neighbouring St Nicolas.

Not sure you’ll be able to find these exact wines in Ireland but Loire wines are widely available, more whites than reds admittedly. Still, my recent check revealed that Curious Wines, Karwig Wines, and Ballymaloe (at Brown Thomas), sell Chinon red.

* Read more about my 3 weeks in the Loire Valley here