Amuse Bouche

When he was expecting us, he often prepared our favourite meal, melocheya – a kind of specially prepared Egyptian green – with baby pigeons, which he would serve on his table after having spread newspapers instead of a tablecloth on his bare table. We ate with aluminium cutlery, and we ripped the pigeons apart with our hands. The melocheya with the rice was worth the trip.

From The Lost Gospel by Herbert Krosney.

Larry "McPinot" in Dublin next Month

Great Flavours from Traditional Portuguese Grapes

Great Flavours from Traditional Portuguese Grapes

Corgo da Regua, Douro Valley Portugal 2012, by Quinta do Judeu, 14%, RRP €12.99, Stockists 

Four traditional Portuguese grape varietals are used to make this excellent red in the Douro Valley by Quinta do Judeu: Tinta Roriz 35%, Tinta Barroca (35%), Touriga Franca (20%) and Touriga Nacional (10%). In another bow to tradition, they are foot trodden in granite lagares (usually with dimensions of about 4 x 4 m with a depth of about 1 m).

This is quite a deep red wine with a pleasant nose of dark fruits and hints of spice. The fruits follow through on the palate in a supple flow of concentrated flavours but with an excellent balance, and a long dry finish.

Earlier inhabitants credited the River Corgo with powers of speech. This wine is not shy and will match your robust red meats and mature cheese. Might be a good idea to grab a bottle or two for the upcoming game season. Highly Recommended!

Wines of the Clare Valley at The Hayfield

It’s a long way from Clare to here

 – wines of the Clare Valley

with John McDonnell at Hayfield Manor Hotel

Next up in the WineGeese series is a wonderful tasting with John McDonnell.

John is one of the legends of the Irish wine scene and has many years of experience in the wine trade, especially in relation to the wines of Australia.

John will talk about winemaking and winemakers in the Clare Valley in Australia and will give a guided tasting of six wines from this beautiful part of the world. John has a wonderful, engaging presentation style and is deeply passionate and knowledgeable about Australian wine so it promises to be a memorable tasting.

A super tasting deserves a super location and where better than the beautiful surroundings of Hayfield Manor.

Booking in advance is highly recommended as this event is expected to sell out very quickly.

Date : Wednesday 18th September 7pm

Venue : Hayfield Manor – Cost €15

Bookings : Contact Michelle Donovan. Events Manager.

Hayfield Manor. Phone (021) 484 5900

Free Lunch for Visitors to A Taste of West Cork Food Festival!

Free Lunch for Visitors to A Taste of West Cork Food Festival!

As part of the Gathering initiative and to welcome international and local visitors, the popular Taste of West Cork Food Festival 2013 (now in its 10th year) is offering guests a delicious West Cork lunch – absolutely free! From the 6^th-15^th September participating restaurants in Skibbereen, Baltimore, Glandore, Union Hall, Leap and Casteltownshend will each showcase a specific product from West Cork; a nationally recognised region with a proud reputation for producing some of the best artisan food in Ireland. Discerning gourmands can, with proof of travel or accommodation, obtain vouchers for their free lunch (sponsored by Field’s Supervalu) from the Festival Box Office.

Cornstore ‘September Mussel Festival’ Returns

Cornstore ‘September Mussel Festival’ Returns

The Cornstore Group are getting set to serve a myriad of mussel dishes this September as their annual Mussel Festival returns for its third consecutive year. This autumn celebration of local mussels and seasonal flavours will see fresh Atlantic Mussels, sourced locally from Jamie O’Dwyer in Haven Shellfish, Kinsale, and Sea Lyons in Carrigaholt, Co Clare, served in over 10 different styles, take centre stage across the group’s menus.  

Restaurant goers can look forward to daily specials such as Mussels with carrot & orange with curry butter and coriander, Mussels with sake & pickled seaweed, or the popular Chorizo with tomato, chickpea and basil dish, along with current menu favourites such as the The Full Irish - Mussels with craft cider, Jameson whiskey, black pudding and chive cream.

‘Our September Mussel Festival has proven to be one of the tastiest and most popular times of the year with our customers,’ said restaurateur Padraic Frawley. ‘We’ve got an array of dishes with something to please all palettes, and if you’re not a mussels fan our current menu options will also be available.’  

Specialising in seafood and dry-aged steak, the group’s restaurants are located in both Cork and Limerick. Just last month they launched their Summer Seafood and Infused Cocktail Collection, which has seen both restaurants become a pilgrim destination for many seafood and cocktail lovers.

WSET Certificate Wine Courses, Autumn 2013

WSET Certificate Wine Courses

Autumn 2013

Venue: Clarion Hotel, Lapp’s Quay, Cork

Lecturer: Gary O’Donovan (BA, WSET Dip.)

WSET Level 1: Foundation Wine Course (1 day)

·         Date to be confirmed

·         Price: €150

WSET Level 2: Intermediate Certificate in Wines & Spirits (9 weeks)

·         Tuesdays 7.00pm-9.00pm from 24^th September–26^th November

·         Price: €395

WSET Level 3: Advanced Certificate in Wines & Spirits (15 weeks)

·         This course will next take place in Spring 2014

·         Price: €695

Full course content available on request.  Payment plan option available.

Contact Deirdre on 021 4296060 or deirdre@odonovansofflicence.com

to register your interest and for further information.

Ideal for those with a grá for the grape, those with an interest and passion for the world of wine and fine spirits and also for those in the hospitality industry looking for professional advancement.

uuGift Vouchers Availableuu

Please note:

·         All fees must be paid prior to course commencement.

·         Course commencement subject to minimum numbers.

·         Students must pass Level 2 before progressing to Level 3.

Smooth Sailing All The Way Home

Day 21 & 22

Smooth Sailing All The Way Home

Our trusty steed takes a break as we "picnic" near Pouancé

The thunderstorms forecast for the Loire and for Brittany never materialised or at least not on our route from Chinon to Roscoff last Friday. True, there were a few showers in Brittany but nothing major and, indeed, the trip to the port was a very easy one.

The only bit of autoroute came early on and took us close to Angers. With time on our hands andthe sun shining most of the time, we made plenty of stops, one of them off piste and in the vicinity of Pouancé. Luckily, we stumbled on a nice picnic site (sign-posted) near the local football pitches and enjoyed a pleasant break before heading back to the main road.

The Sat-Nav, in conjunction with the map reader of course, took us safely through the Rennes Rocade and soon we were on the final leg, the N12 towards Morlaix and Roscoff. After another stop or two, arrived at the port just as the Pont Aven as coming in but it took another two hours, indeed it was just shortly before sailing time of 9.15pm (Friday), that we got on board.

Winding down: Closing time approaches in the Pont Aven Bar

Then it was time for some food. With the hour being rather late, we headed for the excellent self service and two excellent chicken dishes (mine a Poutlet Basque),  two desserts  and two bottles of water, and cost us less than thirty euro. Headed for the bar then only to bump into a bunch of former work colleagues returning from an annual golf trip.

This crossing was one of the very smoothest we’ve ever enjoyed on the Pont Aven and she docked in Ringaskiddy bang on the scheduled time of 10.00am (Saturday). After the inevitable delay in unloading, we eagerly hit the Cork roads and soon landed at home. Nice and uneventful trip and that’s the way we like them.

Roches Point, one of the arms of Cork Harbour, a welcome sight.

Riverboat Trip as we Wind Down in Chinon

Day 20

Riverboat Trip as we Wind Down in Chinon

It is our last full day in Chinon. It is also very warm indeed, up and beyond 30 degrees. Just looked at the wall thermometer in our courtyard terrace and it is threatening to go off the scale that peaks at 50C. For these reasons, this is an easy day.

Baubles 'n bangles at Market

Got up a little later than usual before heading for the market. Made a bee line to the Asian speciality stall and joined the queue. Enjoyed the chit chat with Madame as we stocked up for lunch and evening. Also had a good look around and bought one or two presents.

Busy fruit stall. The grapes,
for eating, are Italian.

Got back around noon and headed straight for the pool. Cooled down and as we walked back to our gite we picked a few plums from the numerous trees in the garden. Did I tell you we have been living in a cave for the past three weeks? And I don’t mean a wine cellar.

Our suntrap! A "foot" of the cave
may be seen on the right (with flowers)

Les Cathelinettes is built on three levels.   The first building is the main one where the hosts, Sylvie and Roger, live and where they also have two B & Bs. Next level up is where we are, a 2/3 person gite built into the hill and an existing cave and termed Troglodyte. These kind of buildings are very common around here and also in the Dordogne. Another gite, a slight bigger one, is built above us.

By the way, you’d never know you’re living in a cave. It looks like an ordinary house but has the advantage of staying nice and cool in this very hot weather. All holiday makers here, and there could be up to a dozen at times, share the pool. In practice though, we’ve always had it to ourselves, often having to take the cover off. It has been fantastic facility the way the weather has turned out.

Chinon and its fortress from our river-boat today.

Chinon too – we can walk to the centre in 20 minutes – is a lovely and sometimes lively town, lots to see and do here and it is also well placed for touring to the east and west as there is a terrific road network.

We used the bigger roads, including autoroutes, to get to places like Vouvray, Amboise and Chenonceau and smaller ones most of the time. They take you through the fields. The landscape, aside from a few hills, is mostly level and quite often the roads are straight. 

A little riverside beach.

We enjoyed some lovely drives with the fields alongside. Crops of Corn on the Cob, Vines (of course) and Sunflowers are the main ones at this time of year. The sunflowers may be a disappointment to some of you. Now, in September, they look delicate, like faded golden paper dolls, all bowing to the inevitable and awaiting the grim reaper, the yellow of their vibrant youth long gone.

Roused ourselves in mid-afternoon and headed down to the tour boat dock. It turned out to be third time lucky. And, with a nice little (very little) breeze on the water, our mini-cruise on the flat-bottomed boat up and down the Vienne was delightful. Some nice views, especially those of the Fortress.

Big Heat Hits Loire. Two wine visits

Day 19

Big Heat Hits Loire. Two wine visits

Teach 'em young!

Super September continued in the Loire Valley with temperatures exceeding 30 degrees and boosting the hopes of wine producers such as Sebastien at Chateau Du Petit Thouars for a super harvest next month.  Rain, forecast for the weekend, will also be a help. Big juicy grapes!

We called back there after a couple of weeks to catch up with the news. Sebastien had been in Sligo for a wedding and his and Darcy’s daughter Elizabeth had taken her first steps and gave us a little demonstration. Great to meet up again with the trio and purchase some more of their fabulous wines, all destined for a trip to Ireland at the weekend.

Chateau du Petit Thouars

Back then to the gite and saw that the thermometer on the wall in the courtyard was getting up towards fifty – this is quite a sun trap as the general temperature is about thirty. Nothing for it but to tog out and take the few steps to the pool and soon we were cooling down.

Over a light lunch, we found we were a little short of Chinon wine, of all things. So we headed off to the riverside cave of Mon Plaisir, another one of those cellars built into the tufa, “free” cellars again, but very impressive even if many of the casks and barrels were covered in a fungus! Skipped the white and roses and went for the reds in the tasting and came away with some 2008 and 2009. 

Cave Mon Plaisir

Happy out but not so happy when we turned up at the opposite river bank for an expected boat trip up the river (Vienne). For the second time, we were disappointed as we were the only two that showed up. The boatman said he had twenty the day before.

Mould on bottles of Chinon 1979

So back to the car and up the river to Montsoreau, just where the Vienne and the Loire meet. Quite a lot of activity on the wide waters and we enjoyed a pleasant spell there.

Fun on the river

Amazing how many restaurants around here stay closed on Wednesdays and that was one of the factors, the heat another, in our eating at the gite this evening. On the way back from Montsoreau, we raided the traiteur and loaded up with pate, salads, main courses and a vegetable gratin. Over across the little square then to the baker and a nice little boule (it doesn’t always have to be baguette – there is a huge range here) and a couple of their winemaker tartlets!

Loire speedsters

Should be a lovely evening as the temperatures are still way up! A demain.

Winemaker's Rartlet - this evening's dessert from the baker.

Amuse Bouche

When not assembled with the rest for dinner, breakfast, a game of billiards, a walk, you are in your room reading, or lounging on your sofa. Every moment there comes in through your window, open on the garden, “puffs of music” from Chopin, working away on one side, which mingle with the songs of the nightingales and the scents of the roses.

From Famous Women: George Sand by Bertha Thomas

Day 18

Saumur:  Mounted Police. A Donkey. Tanks. Wasps in the Pool.

Pilgrim's progress!

Don’t worry. It was a very peaceful day.

Started off the day with a trip to see Saumur, especially the central section, near the River Loire. It is a lovely little town (population about 30,000), full of quite narrow streets that suddenly expand into lovely circles and squares where the locals and visitors are to be found eating and drinking.

Today's Specials, ours on left

After walking round, we decided to have a little lunch and spotted an inviting menu at Cafe du Coin, €12.50 for salad and dessert. Well, the salad turned out to be mega, much better than the description on the board. A great plateful for each of us, plus two Coffee Gourmands and two Pineau Charente came to just over thirty euro and put an end to the prospect of dining at one of the big restaurants for that evening!

While eating on the pavement table, we saw two mounted policemen come up the street, just riding slowly along. They stopped for a while and as they did so this lady walking a large donkey, both well laden, came down the street, against the traffic.

Mega Salad, tomatoes, chicken, more added to original.

She tried to turn left but the donkey was having none of it. She had better luck when she tried right as the traffic built up. But the animal didn’t seem to like Rue St Jean either, for the duo – the lady looked like a Camino pilgrim – were soon back on main street and this time going in the same direction as the traffic.

We had parked up near the chateau and were soon back up there and headed for a nearby viewpoint. Got some great views over the Loire to the left and to the right and, just as we turned to go back to the car, who should we see but the pilgrim duo again. What a couple! After, all they had climbed all the way up with the temperature up to the thirty mark.

The wild Loire, from the heights of Saumur

Our next port of call was just outside the town, the Musée des Blindés, the museum of tanks, all of them from the 20^th century and most used in the two world wars. Man’s ingenuity when it comes to destruction has to be seen to be believed.

There were familiar machines here, the Panzers, the Tigers, the Shermans, the Chieftains. We can only hope that names of this type will never be as familiar again. The men involved, especially in the second world war, were not forgotten and the likes of De Gaulle, Montgomery, Rommel and a rather pasty looking Patton were remembered. 

Chemical warfare

I didn’t think the De Gaulle model was exactly a lookalike. In fact, he looked more like Stephen Fry. The exhibition is in a huge barn type building and is quite a visit if only as reminder of those dreadful conflicts. Just look inside one of those tanks and imagine the panic as flames broke out in the heat of battle. Brave men.

We made our exit into the hot sun and headed for Chinon and agreed it was going to be the traiteur rather than the restaurant. Picked up an inviting looking chicken with lemon, saffron and black olives. We have just the wine to go with it, a 2010 by Clos de L’Epinay, a lovely fruity yet dry Vouvray with a citrusy finish.

Do you think he looks like De Gaulle?

Just had to hit the pool today. We had company. Quite a few wasps had landed there and were floating around, still alive. But we generally avoided one another, though there was one fatality on the other side. C'est la guerre!

A Sherman tank

Da Vinci Codex. Amboise throws the book at me.

Day 17

Da Vinci Codex. Amboise throws the book at me.

Parc Leonardo Da Vinci

Today, in the lovely Loire town of Amboise, they threw the Leonardo Da Vinci book at me. Learned a lot but probably have forgotten much of it already.

Not many people know that the famous Italian lived the last three years of his life here in Chateau du Clos Lucé and indeed died here in 1519. He came as a guest of his ardent admirer Francois 1, the king of France, who had his own Royal Chateau just a few hundred yards away.  There was even a connecting passageway between the two buildings to enable fan Francois talk to his artist.

Here's looking at you kid!

On an arduous journey from Italy Leonardo brought a familiar face, Mona Lisa, with him, though the painting that now hangs here is a copy by someone else painted soon after the original. Da Vinci happily lived here for three years, painting and working on other passions such as engineering, building design, and even producing entertainments for the court.

It cost eighteen euro to do the full visit here and that included the chateau, gardens, a 3D representation of his machines, a special and interesting Da Vinci expo (this accounts for five euro of the fee and you can omit it if you wish) and the enormous park with some 35 individual exhibits illustrating various aspects of the artist’s enormous range of works.

This armour is killing me. Francois I, King of France

The 1471 chateau is modest compared to some we’ve been at but it is attractive. We saw rooms where Da Vinci slept and worked and also the kitchen where the meals were prepared by Mathurine for the vegetarian Italian.

Some mist and sound effects have been added to the waters of the old garden where he walked, a pleasant place where we walked today, but the park is the big deal here, at least for me.  Canvasses hang from the trees to illustrate different themes. Those that caught my eye and imagination were the Light on Faces area and the Mechanics of Life section.

Out in the Parc

But lots more to grab the attention, including getting your hands on the works of the Propeller (precursor of the helicopter), the Paddle Boat, the Tank and more.  Basically, it is the kind of place that you walk around with your mouth open and admiration pouring out through every pore in your body.

This man was a genius of his time and would no doubt have been a genius in these times.

The Propellor (precursor of the helicopter)

It was a tremendous visit in the heat of the second day of September. Temperatures were around the mid 20s as we drove home on the A85 and we were keen to get to the swimming pool. When we reached Chinon, we found our traiteur closed and the only restaurants open were ones that we had already visited.

So, with the pool beckoning, we went a little downmarket and called to the little Carrefour (Carrefour City) in the town. I suppose downmarket might be the wrong term as the prepared meal we choose was by Chef of the Century Joel Robuchon, of Paris, London and Las Vegas.  The meal, titled Le fameux Parmentier de Canard, cost under a fiver each, and was excellent. The little bowls that it came in, suitable for oven or microwave, were cleaned out, not a smidgeon left.

Chateau du Clos Lucé