Chenonceau: The Ladies’ Chateau

Day 7
Chenonceau: The Ladies’ Chateau

No problem with planning permission in 16^th century. Just demolish most of the existing structure and build your own. That was how Thomas Bohier and his wife got to build the fantastic Château of Chenonceau that now straddles the River Cher in the Loire.

It is one of the loveliest of the Loire chateaus and also one of the most popular. Big crowds there in the heat today (31 degrees at one point) but the system works and you get good value for your eleven euro, thirteen if you include the Wax Museum as we did. You also get to see some marvellous gardens, a 16^th century farming village, a maze, a picnic area (in the car park) and more.

One of many impressive fireplaces

Catherine Briconnet, the wife of the first owner Thomas Bohier, was the first of a chain of strong willed women associated with Chenonceau. Others included Diana de Poitiers (a favourite of Henry II), the Henry’s widow Catherine de Medici (who topped Diana’s bridge with a gallery) and Louise of Lorraine who on the death of her husband Henry III dressed in mourning white, decorated her room in black and spent the rest of her days in prayer. 

Louis XIV (official potrait)

And there were more fascinating ladies right up to the 20^th century when Simone Menier was in charge when two galleries of the chateau were transformed, at her family’s expenses, into a hospital for the wounded of the Great War. During World War 11, Chenonceau was on the line of demarcation and then Simone carried out numerous actions for the resistance. Simone, who died in 1972, was a member of the Menier family, the chocolattiers, who bought the chateau in 1913 and still own it today.

Diane's garden, from the gallery

You don’t have to pay to view the exterior of Chateau. You are free to stroll along the river banks. Perhaps the best way to see it is by boat. Some people arrived by canoe while we were there. And so too did a family on a rib. They cut the engine as they viewed the impressive building and then had trouble starting it. The man tried a few times without success and then really put a bit of muscle into the effort, so much so that he fell backwards into the water! But no problem as the river is very shallow at this point.

Louise de Lorraine in mourning white

You could spend a whole day here, especially if you are interested in gardens. We were fascinated by the flower and vegetable garden. But you will be well catered for with a number of restaurants, including a self service and a creperie plus a gourmet one in the Green Garden. And there is also a nice ice cream stand there.

19th century visitor Gustave Flaubert

It is all very impressively organised. We had no problem finding our way around with the help of the  leaflet that you get in your own language on the way in. It is full of photos and information on the various rooms and gardens and the map is brilliant. Must say this was one of the best visits I’ve ever enjoyed and well worth the thirteen euro.

Celosia (in the flower & vegetable garden)

Food, wine and beer at the town market. Then a wee tour as temps rise!

Day 6

Food, wine and beer at the town market. Then a wee tour as temps rise!

Stars and stripes. Market hats

There was a superb market, large and with much variety, in Chinon this morning. Food, followed by clothing and footwear, accounted for the major part of the stalls.

Kids eye the sweets

Amazingly, we ended up coming home with a bag of Asian food. The intended main course is Chicken with Black Mushrooms while a couple of enormous Spring Rolls are also included along with two little bags of an orange coloured liquid whose purpose we had to work on.

Mussels!

It seems that the sauce, possibly a ginger based one, is to be paired with the Spring Rolls (below). In any case, the rolls, full of shoots, nuts and chicken bits, wrapped in rice paper and topped with prawns, were absolutely delicious with the slightly spicy sauce. What a starter for two euro each!

Garlic

And the main course, the Chicken with Black mushrooms, was incredible. So tasty, especially with the savoury rice from the same stall. Getting worried here as CL is beginning to clear her plate before I do. 

Mother and Child in St Martin's

These two courses underline what I’ve been preaching the past few years about the value of markets and traiteurs in France. One of our best meals so far cost us just over seventeen euro, twenty two if you add the lovely bottle of Vouvray, also bought in the market. Don’t know what the strawberries cost but they are for desert.

The morning wasn't the warmest but the temperatures rose as the day went on and I spotted it reach 31 degrees in the car. Our terrace, sheltered on three sides, goes even higher, so a mid-day visit to the pool was necessary.

Nuclear power

In the afternoon, we headed for the lovely village of Candes St Martin and its ancient church where the saint died. A tough walk in the conditions took us to a magnificent viewpoint over the confluence of the Vienne and Loire Rivers and the view also included the local Nuclear Powered Electricity Plant from which lines of enormous pylons march through the vineyards.

River trip on the Vienne. The bit of sand behind separates it from the Loire,
though the two rivers soon join to your left

Over the river then and on to the wine area of Bourgueil and to St Nicolas de Bourgueil in particular. Here we called to the recommended Caveau des Vigernons and bought our first bottles of the local red (made from Cabernet Franc, just like neighbouring Chinon) and also booked a table in their restaurant for tomorrow evening.

St Nicolas de Bourgueil.
A roundabout.

Detained in a French Restaurant!

Day 5

Detained in a French Restaurant!

Knuckle (we call it shank) of lamb 

What is it about some French restaurants that they seem to want to keep you there all night? The answer, methinks, is understaffing. Our server at L’Ardoise in Chinon, a Michelin mentioned bistro and a busy place, was worked off his feet and, despite valiantly trying, could hardly be expected to keep up with the demands of about fifty persons in our downstairs section.

Delays just got longer and, while I didn’t time ours, the couple next table did and said they waited fifty minutes for dessert. We had to struggle to get dessert and the bill and then the credit card machine before escaping into the dark and a night-time temperature of 24 degrees.

On top of all that the menus were on big blackboards. Okay. But when customers came in you were trying to look through them to see what is available and besides the server has to explain the menu to each new arrival. Time wasting and crazy. What not have the regular menu on paper, the specials on the boards? Even the way the wine was handled was awkward. You had to go down to a display of bottles to pick your red and then to another display to choose white or rose. Never seen anything like it.

Yet the food, aside maybe from the desserts, was good. CL’s starter of Foie Gras Poele sur son Carpaccio de bouef and my Mille Feuille avec sentures de maquis and chèvre were quite satisfactory if not outstanding.

We each had the same mains and this was the highlight. It was Knuckle of Lamb cooked for 7 hours and served with rustic potatoes. Really gorgeous. And the wine, a Chinon Red 2012 (18 euro per bottle) wasn't bad either. 

The main visit today was to see the 16^th century Chateau d’Azay de Rideau. It seems that many French also made it their day to visit and the place was busy but far from uncomfortably so. Built between 1518 and 1527, this château is considered one of the foremost examples of early French renaissance architecture. Set on an island in the middle of the Indre river (a tributary of the Loire), this picturesque château has become one of the most popular of the châteaux of the Loire valley.

Stain glass detail from one of the windows

The huge building had to have its king’s room and that forms part of the tour and Louis XIII and Louis XIV stayed here. Quite a lot of other impressive rooms here also, including the Billiards Room! Didn’t get to stay in the King’s Room but did enjoy a lovely lunch in the nearby Creperie du Roy.

Headed off then to nearby Sache which is known as the town of Balzac, the 19^th century novelist, and we saw his chateau and also the 12^th century Auberge where he came for a drink or two. The Auberge is still going strong but today’s menus are on the expensive side. Another well known figure, the 20^th century American sculptor Alexander Calder, also called this town home and one of his large mobiles dominates the small town square.

12th century auberge in Sache

Calder's mobile

We also paid a visit to Villaines les Rochers. Since the Middle Ages, willows from the local river valleys have been made into baskets, anything from fruit holders to baby carriages and even bigger. Must say that I was fascinated by a tour of the local co-op and there are three or four other enterprises making baskets and related items in the town.

Lovely welcome and wines at 17th century Chateau du Petit Thouars

Day 4

Lovely welcome and wines at 17^th century  Chateau du Petit Thouars

In the vineyard today with Sebastien du Petit Thoaurs

 Built at the same time as Cardinal Richelieu was building his nearby model town, the 17^th century Chateau de Petit Thouars  was our destination today. We were warmly welcomed by Sebastien and Darcy and started with a walk through the vineyard, planted in 1975, and which escaped the early summer hailstones that caused havoc in other parts of the Loire this year.

Cabernet Franc is the grape here for reds, roses and a Cremant de Loire which I’m now sipping as I type. But this year, for the first time, Sebastien will harvest Chenin Blanc and he is really looking forward to the results of that.

Cabernet Franc

 In from the sun then to the cool of the cellars, mainly caves excavated in higgledy piggledy fashion but since adapted to the use of the wine-maker with a temperature almost always at an ideal 12 degrees.

Since its rebirth in 1975, the vineyard has grown to a 15 hectares (30 acres) estate. The winemaker is Michel Pinard, who built his well-deserved reputation working for more than ten years with the famous Chinon winemaker Charles Joguet. 

The Chateau's top wine

 The subsequent tasting left us in no doubt that superb wines, from the 2009 Selection to the Amiral (24 months in oak, including one change of barrel) of the same year, are being made here. No wonder they are winning awards and are being sold both in the France and Belgium and in England and the US, and China is on the horizon as well. How about Ireland?

Sipping this lovely sparkler right now.

Superb example of Cabernet Franc

Earlier we had visited the nearby Château in Montsoreau.  The remains of the 15^th century building, the setting for an Alexandre Dumas novel of murder most foul (Le Dame du Mortsoreau), provides a terrific view over the coming together of the Loire and the Vienne rivers and over the village itself, designated a village fleuri.

Boat on the Loire at Montsoreau

Meeting of the waters: the Vienne (right) is taken over by the Loire.

Château in Montsoreau

Earlier we had visited the nearby Château in Montsoreau.  The remains of the 15^th century building, the setting for an Alexandre Dumas novel of murder most foul (Le Dame du Mortsoreau) provides a terrific view over the coming together of the Loire and the Vienne rivers and over the village itself, designated a village fleuri.

Enjoying the pool in the evening sun.

Today also we sorted out one of the priorities of holidaying in France, this to find a good traiteur. These shops can give you a taste of France at a much cheaper rate than restaurants. We found one here in Chinon (it was closed yesterday). From the Aux Delices du Terroir, on rue Marceau, we bought some rabbit in a Basque sauce which just needs a little reheating in the microwave. Looking forward to that now, with a glass of Sebastian’s Selection 2009!

She was Queen of France and then Queen of England

Day 3:

She was Queen of France and then Queen of England.

Eleanor of Aquitaine, one of the richest and most powerful women ever.

Eleanor effigy

 Lovely meal this evening in the Restaurant At’Table in Chinon but the highlight of the day was the visit to the magnificent Abbey Fontevraud, described as the largest and most extraordinary in France. History is writ large here in this early 12^th century building that was run for nearly 700 years by aristocratic abbesses.

It contains the remains of one of the most remarkable women ever, Eleanor of Aquitaine. Her effigy lies next to that of her second husband Henry Plantagenet, the King of England, and their son Richard the Lionheart. Eleanor had before that been married to Louis VII and that made her Queen of France. The story is quite complicated and she endured imprisonment by Henry before being released by son Richard and then going on to live until into her 80s before dying at Fontevraud.

The abbey's cloisters

 After the French revolution, the Abbey was turned into a prison and was used as such until 1963 upon which repair and restoration began. Today, it is a hive of activity both inside and out and is a fantastic visit, not least because some of the areas are used to mount large scale art works and installations. Plans for the future include using part of it as a luxury hotel.

The abbey's chapterhouse

 We had our first stroll around Chinon this morning and very impressed with the statue to another amazing French woman, Joan of Arc, who is remembered here by a monumental statue of her on horseback with a bunch of enemies crushed underfoot.

The duck

 Chinon though is dominated by its chateau. We didn’t visit it but looked at it from down in the town and from a great viewpoint across the river, the Vienne.

After a busy day, we visited the At’Table for dinner and went for the three course menu for 22.90, really good value. The only bum note was a glass of red Chinon house wine, served very cold and probably poor enough in any case. The white, on the other hand, was excellent.

The fish dish

 Good choices for all courses and CL’s starter was a delightful Carpaccio of Melon, sorbet red port and condiments while I absolutely enjoyed my river fish terrine with a lime mousseline. Mains too were top notch, her Parmentier of Duck Confit with orange sauce superb and my Omlet-Chevalier (a sea fish, I’m told) with courgette crumble and red pepper emulsion. Very enjoyable outdoor meal at a very busy venue.

The Sabayon dessert

Dining in style on the high seas.

Loire Holiday 2013

Day 1 & 2

Fishermen in Cork Harbour

Quite a swell as we left the familiar arms of Cork Harbour on Saturday but nothing that the veteran Brittany Ferries ferry, Pont Aven, couldn't handle. So calm was the voyage to Roscoff that we enjoyed a great meal at le Flora, the ship’s main restaurant, as you can see from the pictures.

Duck ravioli with cream of lettuce sauce

The Pont Aven arrived on schedule, maybe even a little early in Roscoff, and, about 7.30 French time we hit the road. All familiar as far as Rennes and then some new roads as we headed for Chinon in the Loire Valley. Hadn’t been there before but the journey was easy, with the big cities, Rennes and Angers, easily by-passed.

Crab dressed in vegetable salad, diplomat sauce.

After lunch at a nearby village, arrived in Chinon as arranged and soon Sylvie showed us around our troglodyte gite. Well equipped, with a pool where the water temperature is in the high 20s. It is very close to the centre of the town and looks like a good base to explore the vineyards and chateaux of the famous river valley.

Chicken and asparagus with Albufera sauce

Cheese course

Kirsch and vanilla pear parfait

Lemon biscuit with tequila ice cream

Brocante market in Chinon this Sunday afternoon

Amuse Bouche

The pleasure in something cooked right, just the small and strangely infinite pleasure to be had from seeing, just witnessing, a tray of freshly baked biscuits. Like I had just completed the Parthenon, or carved Jefferson into a rockface, or maybe the contentment, felt in the very sinews, of the bear when he digs a salmon out of the water with his paw. Mightily healing, deeply, and what else could we have come here for, except to sense these tiny victories. Not wars and civil ructions, but the saving grace of a Hollandaise sauce that has escaped all possibilities of a culinary disaster and is being spread like a yellow prayer on a plump cod steak – victoriously.

From On Canaan’s Side by Sebastian Barry

Market Magic

Market Magic

 Called to Mahon Point Farmer's Market yesterday and came away with this winning combination,thanks to face to face advice from the producers. Ballyhoura Mushrooms were the source for the Shiitake and the Chanterelles while the Chorizo came from Woodside Farm. Tomorrow is a great day for markets so keep your eyes open at Douglas, Midleton and the Coal Quay. Never know what you'll find.

as

Local and Lovely at Greene’s

Local and Lovely at Greene’s

Dessert!

Great to walk into Greene’s the other night and see old friends like Ummera, Ardsallagh and Ballyhoura Mushrooms. Well, not see the people, but their excellent produce which features strongly on the new menu. So well done to new Spanish Chef Vero (Veronica) for sticking with the top local produce and for handling it and cooking it so splendidly. We had a terrific meal.

Started off with some lovely breads. The brown, with some Guinness involved, was outstanding. Then came an Amuse Bouche, a chilled Beetroot Soup. A few excellent spoonfuls and the taste-buds were wide awake and ready for the starter.

Had already enjoyed some smoked salmon at lunch-time so had to pass on the Ummera and choose the Chicken Madeira Paté, Pickled Cucumber, toasted Sourdough Baguette. Really well presented and very enjoyable indeed. CL’s Prawn and Crab cakes with orange and grapefruit segments and coriander crème fraiche and lime and ginger was on the lighter side and very tasty indeed.

Top: Amuse, Prawn & Crab cakes
Middle: Duck
Bottom: Pate and Risotto

Have come across some excellent risottos recently and Vero’s Risotto with Ballyhoura Wild Mushrooms with truffle oil and a rocket salad was well up to that high standard. Great aromas, great flavours and really good value as well. 

While I went to North Cork for my mains, CL travelled west and came up with Skeaghanore Farm Duck Breast with Ratatouille stuffed Tomato, Confit Potatoes, Red Wine and Shallot Sauce, another impressive dish. That stuffed tomato was a nice touch.

Now the line was in sight and dessert loomed. We called it a draw and shared the splendid looking and splendid tasting Millefeuilleof Pineapple Crisps with Lemon Curd and Raspberries with blueberry and Violet Sorbet. Light and lovely. Just like herself!

Oh, nearly forgot to tell you about the wine. They have quite a long list here and we compromised on a red, the Il Bucco Abruzzo Montepulciano 2011, with sweet dark fruits but well balanced and a smooth finish. So after that gorgeous dessert, two happy customers made a smooth exit, taking a long glance at the waterfall as we headed for the archway onto the street.

Handsome Red at Ballymaloe

Handsome Red at Ballymaloe

Pena Roble, Ribera del Duero 2011, 14.5℅, €18.50, Ballymaloe Wines at Brown Thomas.

Had just tasted and dumped a cheap and cheerless South American red (no grape variety mentioned) before opening this. Chalk and Cheese. Actually had full confidence in the Pena Roble as I had tasted it last year at lunch in Ballymaloe, where it is the house red.

It is one hundred per cent Tempranillo and has spent six months in  American and French oak barrels. Colour is an intense red with warm inviting aromas of dark fruits and some spice. The palate reveals an extension and reinforcement of the aromas. It is complex and smooth, full and spicy, and possessed of an impressive finish.

The wine is produced by Bodegas de Penafiel, who began producing in 2000.   "All our wines are made from the indigenous variety Tempranillo. This grape, hallmark of Ribera del Duero, contains exquisite fruit notes that we extract to give our wines their own identity."

A young winery, an old grape and, for me, a new friend, one to keep close at hand. Very Highly Recommended.