Food, wine and beer at the town market. Then a wee tour as temps rise!

Day 6

Food, wine and beer at the town market. Then a wee tour as temps rise!

Stars and stripes. Market hats

There was a superb market, large and with much variety, in Chinon this morning. Food, followed by clothing and footwear, accounted for the major part of the stalls.

Kids eye the sweets

Amazingly, we ended up coming home with a bag of Asian food. The intended main course is Chicken with Black Mushrooms while a couple of enormous Spring Rolls are also included along with two little bags of an orange coloured liquid whose purpose we had to work on.

Mussels!

It seems that the sauce, possibly a ginger based one, is to be paired with the Spring Rolls (below). In any case, the rolls, full of shoots, nuts and chicken bits, wrapped in rice paper and topped with prawns, were absolutely delicious with the slightly spicy sauce. What a starter for two euro each!

Garlic

And the main course, the Chicken with Black mushrooms, was incredible. So tasty, especially with the savoury rice from the same stall. Getting worried here as CL is beginning to clear her plate before I do. 

Mother and Child in St Martin's

These two courses underline what I’ve been preaching the past few years about the value of markets and traiteurs in France. One of our best meals so far cost us just over seventeen euro, twenty two if you add the lovely bottle of Vouvray, also bought in the market. Don’t know what the strawberries cost but they are for desert.

The morning wasn't the warmest but the temperatures rose as the day went on and I spotted it reach 31 degrees in the car. Our terrace, sheltered on three sides, goes even higher, so a mid-day visit to the pool was necessary.

Nuclear power

In the afternoon, we headed for the lovely village of Candes St Martin and its ancient church where the saint died. A tough walk in the conditions took us to a magnificent viewpoint over the confluence of the Vienne and Loire Rivers and the view also included the local Nuclear Powered Electricity Plant from which lines of enormous pylons march through the vineyards.

River trip on the Vienne. The bit of sand behind separates it from the Loire,
though the two rivers soon join to your left

Over the river then and on to the wine area of Bourgueil and to St Nicolas de Bourgueil in particular. Here we called to the recommended Caveau des Vigernons and bought our first bottles of the local red (made from Cabernet Franc, just like neighbouring Chinon) and also booked a table in their restaurant for tomorrow evening.

St Nicolas de Bourgueil.
A roundabout.

Detained in a French Restaurant!

Day 5

Detained in a French Restaurant!

Knuckle (we call it shank) of lamb 

What is it about some French restaurants that they seem to want to keep you there all night? The answer, methinks, is understaffing. Our server at L’Ardoise in Chinon, a Michelin mentioned bistro and a busy place, was worked off his feet and, despite valiantly trying, could hardly be expected to keep up with the demands of about fifty persons in our downstairs section.

Delays just got longer and, while I didn’t time ours, the couple next table did and said they waited fifty minutes for dessert. We had to struggle to get dessert and the bill and then the credit card machine before escaping into the dark and a night-time temperature of 24 degrees.

On top of all that the menus were on big blackboards. Okay. But when customers came in you were trying to look through them to see what is available and besides the server has to explain the menu to each new arrival. Time wasting and crazy. What not have the regular menu on paper, the specials on the boards? Even the way the wine was handled was awkward. You had to go down to a display of bottles to pick your red and then to another display to choose white or rose. Never seen anything like it.

Yet the food, aside maybe from the desserts, was good. CL’s starter of Foie Gras Poele sur son Carpaccio de bouef and my Mille Feuille avec sentures de maquis and chèvre were quite satisfactory if not outstanding.

We each had the same mains and this was the highlight. It was Knuckle of Lamb cooked for 7 hours and served with rustic potatoes. Really gorgeous. And the wine, a Chinon Red 2012 (18 euro per bottle) wasn't bad either. 

The main visit today was to see the 16^th century Chateau d’Azay de Rideau. It seems that many French also made it their day to visit and the place was busy but far from uncomfortably so. Built between 1518 and 1527, this château is considered one of the foremost examples of early French renaissance architecture. Set on an island in the middle of the Indre river (a tributary of the Loire), this picturesque château has become one of the most popular of the châteaux of the Loire valley.

Stain glass detail from one of the windows

The huge building had to have its king’s room and that forms part of the tour and Louis XIII and Louis XIV stayed here. Quite a lot of other impressive rooms here also, including the Billiards Room! Didn’t get to stay in the King’s Room but did enjoy a lovely lunch in the nearby Creperie du Roy.

Headed off then to nearby Sache which is known as the town of Balzac, the 19^th century novelist, and we saw his chateau and also the 12^th century Auberge where he came for a drink or two. The Auberge is still going strong but today’s menus are on the expensive side. Another well known figure, the 20^th century American sculptor Alexander Calder, also called this town home and one of his large mobiles dominates the small town square.

12th century auberge in Sache

Calder's mobile

We also paid a visit to Villaines les Rochers. Since the Middle Ages, willows from the local river valleys have been made into baskets, anything from fruit holders to baby carriages and even bigger. Must say that I was fascinated by a tour of the local co-op and there are three or four other enterprises making baskets and related items in the town.

Lovely welcome and wines at 17th century Chateau du Petit Thouars

Day 4

Lovely welcome and wines at 17^th century  Chateau du Petit Thouars

In the vineyard today with Sebastien du Petit Thoaurs

 Built at the same time as Cardinal Richelieu was building his nearby model town, the 17^th century Chateau de Petit Thouars  was our destination today. We were warmly welcomed by Sebastien and Darcy and started with a walk through the vineyard, planted in 1975, and which escaped the early summer hailstones that caused havoc in other parts of the Loire this year.

Cabernet Franc is the grape here for reds, roses and a Cremant de Loire which I’m now sipping as I type. But this year, for the first time, Sebastien will harvest Chenin Blanc and he is really looking forward to the results of that.

Cabernet Franc

 In from the sun then to the cool of the cellars, mainly caves excavated in higgledy piggledy fashion but since adapted to the use of the wine-maker with a temperature almost always at an ideal 12 degrees.

Since its rebirth in 1975, the vineyard has grown to a 15 hectares (30 acres) estate. The winemaker is Michel Pinard, who built his well-deserved reputation working for more than ten years with the famous Chinon winemaker Charles Joguet. 

The Chateau's top wine

 The subsequent tasting left us in no doubt that superb wines, from the 2009 Selection to the Amiral (24 months in oak, including one change of barrel) of the same year, are being made here. No wonder they are winning awards and are being sold both in the France and Belgium and in England and the US, and China is on the horizon as well. How about Ireland?

Sipping this lovely sparkler right now.

Superb example of Cabernet Franc

Earlier we had visited the nearby Château in Montsoreau.  The remains of the 15^th century building, the setting for an Alexandre Dumas novel of murder most foul (Le Dame du Mortsoreau), provides a terrific view over the coming together of the Loire and the Vienne rivers and over the village itself, designated a village fleuri.

Boat on the Loire at Montsoreau

Meeting of the waters: the Vienne (right) is taken over by the Loire.

Château in Montsoreau

Earlier we had visited the nearby Château in Montsoreau.  The remains of the 15^th century building, the setting for an Alexandre Dumas novel of murder most foul (Le Dame du Mortsoreau) provides a terrific view over the coming together of the Loire and the Vienne rivers and over the village itself, designated a village fleuri.

Enjoying the pool in the evening sun.

Today also we sorted out one of the priorities of holidaying in France, this to find a good traiteur. These shops can give you a taste of France at a much cheaper rate than restaurants. We found one here in Chinon (it was closed yesterday). From the Aux Delices du Terroir, on rue Marceau, we bought some rabbit in a Basque sauce which just needs a little reheating in the microwave. Looking forward to that now, with a glass of Sebastian’s Selection 2009!

She was Queen of France and then Queen of England

Day 3:

She was Queen of France and then Queen of England.

Eleanor of Aquitaine, one of the richest and most powerful women ever.

Eleanor effigy

 Lovely meal this evening in the Restaurant At’Table in Chinon but the highlight of the day was the visit to the magnificent Abbey Fontevraud, described as the largest and most extraordinary in France. History is writ large here in this early 12^th century building that was run for nearly 700 years by aristocratic abbesses.

It contains the remains of one of the most remarkable women ever, Eleanor of Aquitaine. Her effigy lies next to that of her second husband Henry Plantagenet, the King of England, and their son Richard the Lionheart. Eleanor had before that been married to Louis VII and that made her Queen of France. The story is quite complicated and she endured imprisonment by Henry before being released by son Richard and then going on to live until into her 80s before dying at Fontevraud.

The abbey's cloisters

 After the French revolution, the Abbey was turned into a prison and was used as such until 1963 upon which repair and restoration began. Today, it is a hive of activity both inside and out and is a fantastic visit, not least because some of the areas are used to mount large scale art works and installations. Plans for the future include using part of it as a luxury hotel.

The abbey's chapterhouse

 We had our first stroll around Chinon this morning and very impressed with the statue to another amazing French woman, Joan of Arc, who is remembered here by a monumental statue of her on horseback with a bunch of enemies crushed underfoot.

The duck

 Chinon though is dominated by its chateau. We didn’t visit it but looked at it from down in the town and from a great viewpoint across the river, the Vienne.

After a busy day, we visited the At’Table for dinner and went for the three course menu for 22.90, really good value. The only bum note was a glass of red Chinon house wine, served very cold and probably poor enough in any case. The white, on the other hand, was excellent.

The fish dish

 Good choices for all courses and CL’s starter was a delightful Carpaccio of Melon, sorbet red port and condiments while I absolutely enjoyed my river fish terrine with a lime mousseline. Mains too were top notch, her Parmentier of Duck Confit with orange sauce superb and my Omlet-Chevalier (a sea fish, I’m told) with courgette crumble and red pepper emulsion. Very enjoyable outdoor meal at a very busy venue.

The Sabayon dessert

Dining in style on the high seas.

Loire Holiday 2013

Day 1 & 2

Fishermen in Cork Harbour

Quite a swell as we left the familiar arms of Cork Harbour on Saturday but nothing that the veteran Brittany Ferries ferry, Pont Aven, couldn't handle. So calm was the voyage to Roscoff that we enjoyed a great meal at le Flora, the ship’s main restaurant, as you can see from the pictures.

Duck ravioli with cream of lettuce sauce

The Pont Aven arrived on schedule, maybe even a little early in Roscoff, and, about 7.30 French time we hit the road. All familiar as far as Rennes and then some new roads as we headed for Chinon in the Loire Valley. Hadn’t been there before but the journey was easy, with the big cities, Rennes and Angers, easily by-passed.

Crab dressed in vegetable salad, diplomat sauce.

After lunch at a nearby village, arrived in Chinon as arranged and soon Sylvie showed us around our troglodyte gite. Well equipped, with a pool where the water temperature is in the high 20s. It is very close to the centre of the town and looks like a good base to explore the vineyards and chateaux of the famous river valley.

Chicken and asparagus with Albufera sauce

Cheese course

Kirsch and vanilla pear parfait

Lemon biscuit with tequila ice cream

Brocante market in Chinon this Sunday afternoon

Amuse Bouche

The pleasure in something cooked right, just the small and strangely infinite pleasure to be had from seeing, just witnessing, a tray of freshly baked biscuits. Like I had just completed the Parthenon, or carved Jefferson into a rockface, or maybe the contentment, felt in the very sinews, of the bear when he digs a salmon out of the water with his paw. Mightily healing, deeply, and what else could we have come here for, except to sense these tiny victories. Not wars and civil ructions, but the saving grace of a Hollandaise sauce that has escaped all possibilities of a culinary disaster and is being spread like a yellow prayer on a plump cod steak – victoriously.

From On Canaan’s Side by Sebastian Barry

Market Magic

Market Magic

 Called to Mahon Point Farmer's Market yesterday and came away with this winning combination,thanks to face to face advice from the producers. Ballyhoura Mushrooms were the source for the Shiitake and the Chanterelles while the Chorizo came from Woodside Farm. Tomorrow is a great day for markets so keep your eyes open at Douglas, Midleton and the Coal Quay. Never know what you'll find.

as

Local and Lovely at Greene’s

Local and Lovely at Greene’s

Dessert!

Great to walk into Greene’s the other night and see old friends like Ummera, Ardsallagh and Ballyhoura Mushrooms. Well, not see the people, but their excellent produce which features strongly on the new menu. So well done to new Spanish Chef Vero (Veronica) for sticking with the top local produce and for handling it and cooking it so splendidly. We had a terrific meal.

Started off with some lovely breads. The brown, with some Guinness involved, was outstanding. Then came an Amuse Bouche, a chilled Beetroot Soup. A few excellent spoonfuls and the taste-buds were wide awake and ready for the starter.

Had already enjoyed some smoked salmon at lunch-time so had to pass on the Ummera and choose the Chicken Madeira Paté, Pickled Cucumber, toasted Sourdough Baguette. Really well presented and very enjoyable indeed. CL’s Prawn and Crab cakes with orange and grapefruit segments and coriander crème fraiche and lime and ginger was on the lighter side and very tasty indeed.

Top: Amuse, Prawn & Crab cakes
Middle: Duck
Bottom: Pate and Risotto

Have come across some excellent risottos recently and Vero’s Risotto with Ballyhoura Wild Mushrooms with truffle oil and a rocket salad was well up to that high standard. Great aromas, great flavours and really good value as well. 

While I went to North Cork for my mains, CL travelled west and came up with Skeaghanore Farm Duck Breast with Ratatouille stuffed Tomato, Confit Potatoes, Red Wine and Shallot Sauce, another impressive dish. That stuffed tomato was a nice touch.

Now the line was in sight and dessert loomed. We called it a draw and shared the splendid looking and splendid tasting Millefeuilleof Pineapple Crisps with Lemon Curd and Raspberries with blueberry and Violet Sorbet. Light and lovely. Just like herself!

Oh, nearly forgot to tell you about the wine. They have quite a long list here and we compromised on a red, the Il Bucco Abruzzo Montepulciano 2011, with sweet dark fruits but well balanced and a smooth finish. So after that gorgeous dessert, two happy customers made a smooth exit, taking a long glance at the waterfall as we headed for the archway onto the street.

Handsome Red at Ballymaloe

Handsome Red at Ballymaloe

Pena Roble, Ribera del Duero 2011, 14.5℅, €18.50, Ballymaloe Wines at Brown Thomas.

Had just tasted and dumped a cheap and cheerless South American red (no grape variety mentioned) before opening this. Chalk and Cheese. Actually had full confidence in the Pena Roble as I had tasted it last year at lunch in Ballymaloe, where it is the house red.

It is one hundred per cent Tempranillo and has spent six months in  American and French oak barrels. Colour is an intense red with warm inviting aromas of dark fruits and some spice. The palate reveals an extension and reinforcement of the aromas. It is complex and smooth, full and spicy, and possessed of an impressive finish.

The wine is produced by Bodegas de Penafiel, who began producing in 2000.   "All our wines are made from the indigenous variety Tempranillo. This grape, hallmark of Ribera del Duero, contains exquisite fruit notes that we extract to give our wines their own identity."

A young winery, an old grape and, for me, a new friend, one to keep close at hand. Very Highly Recommended.

Food And Drink Spotting

Food And Drink Spotting

Taste of the Week by McCarthy's Natural Dairy from Macroom.
This Lemon Labneh is a strained natural yoghurt and can be used as a
substitute for soft cheese. Works well with strawberries, on biscuits,
smoked salmon etc. Tried it with the salmon and enjoyed.
Stockists, for this and other McCarthy products,
 include Bradley's, North Main Street.

L'Atitude 51

Castle Oliver, a magnificent Irish Castle built with Red Sandstone in the Scottish Baronial style on 15 acres with breathtaking views of the Ballyhoura mountains in Ardpatrick, Co. Limerick, will be opening its doors to the public for National Heritage Week. Historical guided tours from Saturday 17th to Sunday 25th August 2013, see more info at www.castleoliver.ie

To mark the occasion and celebrate Ireland’s oldest cellar, L’Atitude 51 will be hosting a series of Wine Tastings deep in Castle Oliver’s cellar. Four different wines with a distinctly Irish connection will be presented and tasted, along with a glimpse into some of the secrets of this historical cellar.

Tastings: Saturday 17th Aug and Sunday 18th, 2 pm and 5pm.

Barton & Guestier's Easy Pairings

‘The Pairing Collection’ are appellation wines coming from four of the most prestigious wine regions of France (Beaujolais, Bordeaux, Loire and Rhone) and centres on the perfect food and wine pairing experience. With three reds and two whites, ‘The Pairing Collection’ offers French wine that’s right for any occasion, whether you are preparing a celebration for your family or grabbing a burger with friends. The collection is made up of five wines: Chops & Burgers (Bordeaux Red), Salmon & Trout (Bordeaux White), Chicken & Turkey(Côtes du Rhône), Lobster & Shrimp (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine), and Cheese & Crackers (Beaujolais Villages).

Not sure what to cook for dinner? No problem! A personal recipe from Barton & Guestier's Chef de Cuisine Frédéric Prouvoyeur and a QR code is located on the back label of each bottle, linking you to a dedicated website www.thepairingcollection.com which features lists of additional recipes that go perfectly with each wine.

Maperath Farm

We really hope that you can make it to a lovely event we have on August 24th just outside Kells on Maperath Farm. An afternoon of 'soap box' style discussion on current trends, controversy & visions for food production and food tourism in Ireland. We have a great panel including Pauric White from the Forge Restaurant and Cookery School, Kevin Sheridan of Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, Michael Hoey MD of Country Crest, Daphne Le Vinge Shakleton of Lakeside Organic farm along with guests from the Department of Agriculture, Food Bloggers, Foragers, Food writers and more!

Join us in the 'Big talk tent on the little farm' on Saturday August 24th where we will take the lid off all the steaming topics of food in Ireland........

It's FREE, fun and only a couple of hours but please let us know you are coming!

Find us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=570168369691884&set=a.462457263796329.97395.462443730464349&type=1&theater for all updates and directions etc.

Duck a l'Orange with Carrots, Chicory and Fennel at the Citron in the Fitzwilliam Hotel (Dublin).Check out the Autumn  Menu here

LimerickMilkMarket

Country Choice on Tour was the destination for international TV chef Bobby Chinn's intro to Irish Hereford beef. Peter did flash fried Hereford ribeye with a Dillisc and sea salt crust served with Caramelised onions, Cashel blue cheese and warm griddle bread. The food was all cooked on open griddles at the Nenagh show. Chef Bobby judged some of the cake classes in the Industries hall.

Chef Bobby also featured Ballymaloe House, The English Market and Aniar in Galway.
Bobby told Minister for food Tom Hayes that the Nenagh Hereford was the best beef he ever tasted!

Cachaca.

This is cachaca. Pronounced k-saw-sha, it is a fermented beverage distilled from raw sugar cane. People around the world have been drinking it for generations in a cocktail called a caipirinah, the national cocktail of Brazil.  Novo Fogo  produces cachaca in a zero-waste distillery. Read more here 

Glenisk Pop-Up

When: Saturday August 17th, 12:30 – 2pm

Where: Glenisk Pop Up Shop @ 51 Dawson St, Dublin 2

Who:  The Glenisk team and Caitriona Redmond

Caítríona Redmond is the voice behind the fantastic food blog Wholesome Ireland.

Mother & wife, Caítríona began her foodie writing on becoming a full-time stay at home mum. In the current climate Caítríona, like many of us, found herself trying to feed her family within the constraints of a tighter budget. Wholesome Ireland is about Caítríona herself and how she manages to do just this while providing nutritious, tasty and healthy meals for her family. The blog is a wealth of knowledge with articles such as Saving Money in the Sun & How Not to Go Shopping along with purse friendly recipes, lunch box ideas and home- made alternatives to many of the higher priced store products.

The Frugal Family Food Demo will be an opportunity to pick up some tips from Caítríona on making savings and cooking for your family and also some delicious recipes to try at home. 

To register for your place on this demo, please emailupfront@glenisk.com and put ‘Frugal Family Food Demo’ in the subject line.

Hope to see you there! 

Featuring the Beringer winery

Working with family can cause headaches, even divide a family, but it can also bring a family closer, allowing it to sustain for generations. The greatest thing about family, though, is that they are not always blood relatives. Beringer Winery is the longest operating winery in California, and it seems that once one is there, they never leave. The ability to sustain tradition while innovating for the future is at the heart of the Beringer family. Maybe that’s why they are the only winery to ever have a red and white be Wine Spectator‘s number one wine. See more on very interesting video here

Recent Video Work by Roger Overall

Any food producer looking for ways to promote his or her products could do worse than take a look at these recent promotional videos.

The Poacher’s Inn: http://vimeo.com/70026018

Sage and the 12 mile menu: http://vimeo.com/71364004

The Burren Smokehouse: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14zR4tMuiGc

Bia Sásta Foodie Events for August: http://us4.campaign-archive1.com/?u=701445d90ec5e77a7d158692b&id=0ed7c16d4b&e=7672e60f31

White Gypsy on the Dubbel

Gypsy on the Dubbel

White Gypsy Belgian Dubbel, 8% abv, Bradley's, North Main Street, Cork.

The best craft brewer in Ireland? Heard that kind of praise for Tipperary’s White Gypsy recently. Not too long afterwards, I took a sup of this one. Wow!

It is mouth friendly, taste buds all quickly awake. No shortage of flavours, even a little spiciness, but the very friendly contact spells not excess but a smooth sophistication. Cool for sure but also strong.

The whole package, including the 8% abv and the 75cl bottle size, is aimed at food matching and White Gypsy says this is "an excellent choice for grilled oily fish like tuna or salmon". Would not argue.

Dubbel is "now understood to be a fairly strong (6 to 8% abv) brown ale, with understated bitterness, fairly heavy body and a pronounced fruitiness and cereal character. Example: Chimay Red/Premiere".

Other White Gypsy reviews, including the excellent Russian Imperial Stout here. 

Let me introduce you to Lemberger

Let me introduce you to Lemberger

Burg Ravensburg (baden) 2011, Lemberger Trocken, 13.5%, €18.10 Karwig Wines 

A few weeks back, I’d never heard of the grape variety called Lemberger. Now, I’d like to introduce you all to it. This particular bottle from Germany showed deep red colours and had lovely flavours of dark fruits (cherry and plum, for me). On the palate, it unfolded with a velvety feel, juicy, and with gorgeous flavours of the fruits impressing. Mild spicy traits were also evident and it has an excellent long finish.

The Lemberger variety was imported to Germany from Eastern Europe, possibly from Hungary, in the 18th century and has been called the “Pinot Noir” of the East. A new wine in the Karwig line-up and a super surprise, well worth a try and Highly Recommended.

Baden is a region for quality wine in Germany and is located in the historical region of Baden in south-western Germany, which today forms part of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg. The winery, which recommends matching the Lemberger with game, lamb and beef, is not too far from Stuttgart.

Five Stars for Star Anise

Five Stars for Star Anise

A group of five of us descended on busy Star Anise the other evening. And each and every one left very happy indeed after a tremendous meal as Bridge Street’s finest once again delivered on the double. A lovely welcome from Virginie and soon we were sitting and studying the menu and taking in the details of the specials. 

Crispy Ham Hock Croquettes with Tarragon and Pear chutney and Balsamic Leaves were a popular starter but I went for the Chargrilled Mediterranean Vegetables Salad with Baby Mozzarella, Olives, pine nuts and pesto dressing (top). The salad was an excellent blend and completely delicious. Another on the table that caught my fancy was the superb Timbale of Duck Confit and Chicken Liver parfait (above) but had to settle for a taste!

Some terrific choices available for the main courses, including a substantial Frito Miso (squid, Tiger prawns and fish pieces coated in rice flour and served with red chilli and lemon aioli and green salad).

One of the ladies went for the Grilled Irish Sirloin Steak (below) served with creamy mash, grilled Portobello mushroom and plum tomato, and garlic butter and boy was she was pleased. CL and I picked the Fish of the Day, a superbly cooked piece of monkfish served with, among other delightful things, crab croquettes and a courgette stack (above).

Thanks to the usual top class service, efficiency combined with a chat, the evening was going pleasantly by, helped in no small measure (quite large measures actually) of wine. Some terrific choices here on a very well constructed list but I’ve always had a soft spot for the Austrian Grüner Veltliner and the Hopler 2012 didn’t disappoint and went down a treat with all parties.

Time now for dessert and again no shortage of choice. But when Christine announced that one of the specials was a Classic French Clafoutis with Irish Cherries, there was no hesitation on the part of the two seniors. Thumbs up beforehand and thumbs up afterwards as well, with a special mention for the strawberry sorbet on the plate