Monday, August 19, 2013

She was Queen of France and then Queen of England

Day 3:
She was Queen of France and then Queen of England.
Eleanor of Aquitaine, one of the richest and most powerful women ever.



Eleanor effigy
 Lovely meal this evening in the Restaurant At’Table in Chinon but the highlight of the day was the visit to the magnificent Abbey Fontevraud, described as the largest and most extraordinary in France. History is writ large here in this early 12th century building that was run for nearly 700 years by aristocratic abbesses.

It contains the remains of one of the most remarkable women ever, Eleanor of Aquitaine. Her effigy lies next to that of her second husband Henry Plantagenet, the King of England, and their son Richard the Lionheart. Eleanor had before that been married to Louis VII and that made her Queen of France. The story is quite complicated and she endured imprisonment by Henry before being released by son Richard and then going on to live until into her 80s before dying at Fontevraud.
The abbey's cloisters
 After the French revolution, the Abbey was turned into a prison and was used as such until 1963 upon which repair and restoration began. Today, it is a hive of activity both inside and out and is a fantastic visit, not least because some of the areas are used to mount large scale art works and installations. Plans for the future include using part of it as a luxury hotel.
The abbey's chapterhouse
 We had our first stroll around Chinon this morning and very impressed with the statue to another amazing French woman, Joan of Arc, who is remembered here by a monumental statue of her on horseback with a bunch of enemies crushed underfoot.
The duck
 Chinon though is dominated by its chateau. We didn’t visit it but looked at it from down in the town and from a great viewpoint across the river, the Vienne.

After a busy day, we visited the At’Table for dinner and went for the three course menu for 22.90, really good value. The only bum note was a glass of red Chinon house wine, served very cold and probably poor enough in any case. The white, on the other hand, was excellent.
The fish dish
 Good choices for all courses and CL’s starter was a delightful Carpaccio of Melon, sorbet red port and condiments while I absolutely enjoyed my river fish terrine with a lime mousseline. Mains too were top notch, her Parmentier of Duck Confit with orange sauce superb and my Omlet-Chevalier (a sea fish, I’m told) with courgette crumble and red pepper emulsion. Very enjoyable outdoor meal at a very busy venue.
The Sabayon dessert





Sunday, August 18, 2013

Dining in style on the high seas.

Loire Holiday 2013

Day 1 & 2
Fishermen in Cork Harbour
Quite a swell as we left the familiar arms of Cork Harbour on Saturday but nothing that the veteran Brittany Ferries ferry, Pont Aven, couldn't handle. So calm was the voyage to Roscoff that we enjoyed a great meal at le Flora, the ship’s main restaurant, as you can see from the pictures.

Duck ravioli with cream of lettuce sauce
The Pont Aven arrived on schedule, maybe even a little early in Roscoff, and, about 7.30 French time we hit the road. All familiar as far as Rennes and then some new roads as we headed for Chinon in the Loire Valley. Hadn’t been there before but the journey was easy, with the big cities, Rennes and Angers, easily by-passed.

Crab dressed in vegetable salad, diplomat sauce.
After lunch at a nearby village, arrived in Chinon as arranged and soon Sylvie showed us around our troglodyte gite. Well equipped, with a pool where the water temperature is in the high 20s. It is very close to the centre of the town and looks like a good base to explore the vineyards and chateaux of the famous river valley.


Chicken and asparagus with Albufera sauce

Cheese course

Kirsch and vanilla pear parfait

Lemon biscuit with tequila ice cream

Brocante market in Chinon this Sunday afternoon


Friday, August 16, 2013

Amuse Bouche

The pleasure in something cooked right, just the small and strangely infinite pleasure to be had from seeing, just witnessing, a tray of freshly baked biscuits. Like I had just completed the Parthenon, or carved Jefferson into a rockface, or maybe the contentment, felt in the very sinews, of the bear when he digs a salmon out of the water with his paw. Mightily healing, deeply, and what else could we have come here for, except to sense these tiny victories. Not wars and civil ructions, but the saving grace of a Hollandaise sauce that has escaped all possibilities of a culinary disaster and is being spread like a yellow prayer on a plump cod steak – victoriously.


From On Canaan’s Side by Sebastian Barry

Market Magic

Market Magic
 Called to Mahon Point Farmer's Market yesterday and came away with this winning combination,thanks to face to face advice from the producers. Ballyhoura Mushrooms were the source for the Shiitake and the Chanterelles while the Chorizo came from Woodside Farm. Tomorrow is a great day for markets so keep your eyes open at Douglas, Midleton and the Coal Quay. Never know what you'll find.

as

Local and Lovely at Greene’s

Local and Lovely at Greene’s
Dessert!
Great to walk into Greene’s the other night and see old friends like Ummera, Ardsallagh and Ballyhoura Mushrooms. Well, not see the people, but their excellent produce which features strongly on the new menu. So well done to new Spanish Chef Vero (Veronica) for sticking with the top local produce and for handling it and cooking it so splendidly. We had a terrific meal.

Started off with some lovely breads. The brown, with some Guinness involved, was outstanding. Then came an Amuse Bouche, a chilled Beetroot Soup. A few excellent spoonfuls and the taste-buds were wide awake and ready for the starter.

Had already enjoyed some smoked salmon at lunch-time so had to pass on the Ummera and choose the Chicken Madeira Paté, Pickled Cucumber, toasted Sourdough Baguette. Really well presented and very enjoyable indeed. CL’s Prawn and Crab cakes with orange and grapefruit segments and coriander crème fraiche and lime and ginger was on the lighter side and very tasty indeed.

Top: Amuse, Prawn & Crab cakes
Middle: Duck
Bottom: Pate and Risotto
Have come across some excellent risottos recently and Vero’s Risotto with Ballyhoura Wild Mushrooms with truffle oil and a rocket salad was well up to that high standard. Great aromas, great flavours and really good value as well. 

While I went to North Cork for my mains, CL travelled west and came up with Skeaghanore Farm Duck Breast with Ratatouille stuffed Tomato, Confit Potatoes, Red Wine and Shallot Sauce, another impressive dish. That stuffed tomato was a nice touch.

Now the line was in sight and dessert loomed. We called it a draw and shared the splendid looking and splendid tasting Millefeuilleof Pineapple Crisps with Lemon Curd and Raspberries with blueberry and Violet Sorbet. Light and lovely. Just like herself!

Oh, nearly forgot to tell you about the wine. They have quite a long list here and we compromised on a red, the Il Bucco Abruzzo Montepulciano 2011, with sweet dark fruits but well balanced and a smooth finish. So after that gorgeous dessert, two happy customers made a smooth exit, taking a long glance at the waterfall as we headed for the archway onto the street.



Handsome Red at Ballymaloe

Handsome Red at Ballymaloe

Pena Roble, Ribera del Duero 2011, 14.5℅, €18.50, Ballymaloe Wines at Brown Thomas.

Had just tasted and dumped a cheap and cheerless South American red (no grape variety mentioned) before opening this. Chalk and Cheese. Actually had full confidence in the Pena Roble as I had tasted it last year at lunch in Ballymaloe, where it is the house red.
It is one hundred per cent Tempranillo and has spent six months in  American and French oak barrels. Colour is an intense red with warm inviting aromas of dark fruits and some spice. The palate reveals an extension and reinforcement of the aromas. It is complex and smooth, full and spicy, and possessed of an impressive finish.
The wine is produced by Bodegas de Penafiel, who began producing in 2000.   "All our wines are made from the indigenous variety Tempranillo. This grape, hallmark of Ribera del Duero, contains exquisite fruit notes that we extract to give our wines their own identity."
A young winery, an old grape and, for me, a new friend, one to keep close at hand. Very Highly Recommended.

Thursday, August 15, 2013

Food And Drink Spotting

Food And Drink Spotting
Taste of the Week by McCarthy's Natural Dairy from Macroom.
This Lemon Labneh is a strained natural yoghurt and can be used as a
substitute for soft cheese. Works well with strawberries, on biscuits,
smoked salmon etc. Tried it with the salmon and enjoyed.
Stockists, for this and other McCarthy products,
 include Bradley's, North Main Street.

L'Atitude 51
Castle Oliver, a magnificent Irish Castle built with Red Sandstone in the Scottish Baronial style on 15 acres with breathtaking views of the Ballyhoura mountains in Ardpatrick, Co. Limerick, will be opening its doors to the public for National Heritage Week. Historical guided tours from Saturday 17th to Sunday 25th August 2013, see more info at www.castleoliver.ie

To mark the occasion and celebrate Ireland’s oldest cellar, L’Atitude 51 will be hosting a series of Wine Tastings deep in Castle Oliver’s cellar. Four different wines with a distinctly Irish connection will be presented and tasted, along with a glimpse into some of the secrets of this historical cellar.

Tastings: Saturday 17th Aug and Sunday 18th, 2 pm and 5pm.

Barton & Guestier's Easy Pairings

‘The Pairing Collection’ are appellation wines coming from four of the most prestigious wine regions of France (Beaujolais, Bordeaux, Loire and Rhone) and centres on the perfect food and wine pairing experience. With three reds and two whites, ‘The Pairing Collection’ offers French wine that’s right for any occasion, whether you are preparing a celebration for your family or grabbing a burger with friends. The collection is made up of five wines: Chops & Burgers (Bordeaux Red), Salmon & Trout (Bordeaux White), Chicken & Turkey(Côtes du Rhône), Lobster & Shrimp (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine), and Cheese & Crackers (Beaujolais Villages).
Not sure what to cook for dinner? No problem! A personal recipe from Barton & Guestier's Chef de Cuisine Frédéric Prouvoyeur and a QR code is located on the back label of each bottle, linking you to a dedicated website www.thepairingcollection.com which features lists of additional recipes that go perfectly with each wine.

Maperath Farm

We really hope that you can make it to a lovely event we have on August 24th just outside Kells on Maperath Farm. An afternoon of 'soap box' style discussion on current trends, controversy & visions for food production and food tourism in Ireland. We have a great panel including Pauric White from the Forge Restaurant and Cookery School, Kevin Sheridan of Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, Michael Hoey MD of Country Crest, Daphne Le Vinge Shakleton of Lakeside Organic farm along with guests from the Department of Agriculture, Food Bloggers, Foragers, Food writers and more!

Join us in the 'Big talk tent on the little farm' on Saturday August 24th where we will take the lid off all the steaming topics of food in Ireland........

It's FREE, fun and only a couple of hours but please let us know you are coming!



Duck a l'Orange with Carrots, Chicory and Fennel at the Citron in the Fitzwilliam Hotel (Dublin).Check out the Autumn  Menu here

Country Choice on Tour was the destination for international TV chef Bobby Chinn's intro to Irish Hereford beef. Peter did flash fried Hereford ribeye with a Dillisc and sea salt crust served with Caramelised onions, Cashel blue cheese and warm griddle bread. The food was all cooked on open griddles at the Nenagh show. Chef Bobby judged some of the cake classes in the Industries hall.
Chef Bobby also featured Ballymaloe House, The English Market and Aniar in Galway.
Bobby told Minister for food Tom Hayes that the Nenagh Hereford was the best beef he ever tasted!


This is cachaca. Pronounced k-saw-sha, it is a fermented beverage distilled from raw sugar cane. People around the world have been drinking it for generations in a cocktail called a caipirinah, the national cocktail of Brazil.  Novo Fogo  produces cachaca in a zero-waste distillery. Read more here 

Glenisk Pop-Up
When: Saturday August 17th, 12:30 – 2pm
Where: Glenisk Pop Up Shop @ 51 Dawson St, Dublin 2
Who:  The Glenisk team and Caitriona Redmond

Caítríona Redmond is the voice behind the fantastic food blog Wholesome Ireland.
Mother & wife, Caítríona began her foodie writing on becoming a full-time stay at home mum. In the current climate Caítríona, like many of us, found herself trying to feed her family within the constraints of a tighter budget. Wholesome Ireland is about Caítríona herself and how she manages to do just this while providing nutritious, tasty and healthy meals for her family. The blog is a wealth of knowledge with articles such as Saving Money in the Sun & How Not to Go Shopping along with purse friendly recipeslunch box ideas and home- made alternatives to many of the higher priced store products.
The Frugal Family Food Demo will be an opportunity to pick up some tips from Caítríona on making savings and cooking for your family and also some delicious recipes to try at home. 

To register for your place on this demo, please emailupfront@glenisk.com and put ‘Frugal Family Food Demo’ in the subject line.

Hope to see you there! 

Featuring the Beringer winery
Working with family can cause headaches, even divide a family, but it can also bring a family closer, allowing it to sustain for generations. The greatest thing about family, though, is that they are not always blood relatives. Beringer Winery is the longest operating winery in California, and it seems that once one is there, they never leave. The ability to sustain tradition while innovating for the future is at the heart of the Beringer family. Maybe that’s why they are the only winery to ever have a red and white be Wine Spectator‘s number one wine. See more on very interesting video here

Recent Video Work by Roger Overall
Any food producer looking for ways to promote his or her products could do worse than take a look at these recent promotional videos.
The Poacher’s Inn: http://vimeo.com/70026018
Sage and the 12 mile menu: http://vimeo.com/71364004

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

White Gypsy on the Dubbel

Gypsy on the Dubbel
White Gypsy Belgian Dubbel, 8% abv, Bradley's, North Main Street, Cork.
The best craft brewer in Ireland? Heard that kind of praise for Tipperary’s White Gypsy recently. Not too long afterwards, I took a sup of this one. Wow!

It is mouth friendly, taste buds all quickly awake. No shortage of flavours, even a little spiciness, but the very friendly contact spells not excess but a smooth sophistication. Cool for sure but also strong.

The whole package, including the 8% abv and the 75cl bottle size, is aimed at food matching and White Gypsy says this is "an excellent choice for grilled oily fish like tuna or salmon". Would not argue.


Dubbel is "now understood to be a fairly strong (6 to 8% abv) brown ale, with understated bitterness, fairly heavy body and a pronounced fruitiness and cereal character. Example: Chimay Red/Premiere".

Other White Gypsy reviews, including the excellent Russian Imperial Stout here

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Let me introduce you to Lemberger

Let me introduce you to Lemberger


Burg Ravensburg (baden) 2011, Lemberger Trocken, 13.5%, €18.10 Karwig Wines 
A few weeks back, I’d never heard of the grape variety called Lemberger. Now, I’d like to introduce you all to it. This particular bottle from Germany showed deep red colours and had lovely flavours of dark fruits (cherry and plum, for me). On the palate, it unfolded with a velvety feel, juicy, and with gorgeous flavours of the fruits impressing. Mild spicy traits were also evident and it has an excellent long finish.

The Lemberger variety was imported to Germany from Eastern Europe, possibly from Hungary, in the 18th century and has been called the “Pinot Noir” of the East. A new wine in the Karwig line-up and a super surprise, well worth a try and Highly Recommended.

Baden is a region for quality wine in Germany and is located in the historical region of Baden in south-western Germany, which today forms part of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg. The winery, which recommends matching the Lemberger with game, lamb and beef, is not too far from Stuttgart.

Monday, August 12, 2013

Five Stars for Star Anise

Five Stars for Star Anise
A group of five of us descended on busy Star Anise the other evening. And each and every one left very happy indeed after a tremendous meal as Bridge Street’s finest once again delivered on the double. A lovely welcome from Virginie and soon we were sitting and studying the menu and taking in the details of the specials. 
Crispy Ham Hock Croquettes with Tarragon and Pear chutney and Balsamic Leaves were a popular starter but I went for the Chargrilled Mediterranean Vegetables Salad with Baby Mozzarella, Olives, pine nuts and pesto dressing (top). The salad was an excellent blend and completely delicious. Another on the table that caught my fancy was the superb Timbale of Duck Confit and Chicken Liver parfait (above) but had to settle for a taste!
Some terrific choices available for the main courses, including a substantial Frito Miso (squid, Tiger prawns and fish pieces coated in rice flour and served with red chilli and lemon aioli and green salad).

One of the ladies went for the Grilled Irish Sirloin Steak (below) served with creamy mash, grilled Portobello mushroom and plum tomato, and garlic butter and boy was she was pleased. CL and I picked the Fish of the Day, a superbly cooked piece of monkfish served with, among other delightful things, crab croquettes and a courgette stack (above).
Thanks to the usual top class service, efficiency combined with a chat, the evening was going pleasantly by, helped in no small measure (quite large measures actually) of wine. Some terrific choices here on a very well constructed list but I’ve always had a soft spot for the Austrian Grüner Veltliner and the Hopler 2012 didn’t disappoint and went down a treat with all parties.

Time now for dessert and again no shortage of choice. But when Christine announced that one of the specials was a Classic French Clafoutis with Irish Cherries, there was no hesitation on the part of the two seniors. Thumbs up beforehand and thumbs up afterwards as well, with a special mention for the strawberry sorbet on the plate






Saturday, August 10, 2013

Amuse Bouche

It was a hard slog, though, on what were the early days of a touring circuit, with primitive roads, transport and equipment. They also had to survive on meagre rations, and Eric Kitheringham has the vivid memory of having to eat raw mushrooms when they were sharing a basement flag in Earls Court in London. The heavy touring was taking its toll.


From Rory Gallagher, His Life and Times, by Marcus Connaughton.

Friday, August 9, 2013

Me and the Blonde at the Lemontree

Me and the Blonde at the Lemontree

No better spot to meet a Blarney Blonde than in the Lemontree, the excellent restaurant attached to the family owned Blarney Castle Hotel which overlooks the village green. And, to make it better, the Blonde, a lovely ale by the Franciscan Well Brewery, was every bit as cool and as tasty as expected.


And she wasn't the only local to be found in this lovely restaurant where Chef Paul O’Donnell is doing a terrific job. Paul believes in using local produce as much as possible. As an example, the beef comes from Osborne’s who operate on another side of the green. Can’t get much more local than that.
The menu outside looked very inviting and we weren’t disappointed. I started with a gorgeous plate: Fresh Crab Meat with mango and red onion salsa and a salad garnished with a smoked paprika and Coriander dressing (below).
Superb, and so too was CL’s Warm Goat’s Cheese, Apricot and Walnut Tart with a cherry tomato and Cajun spice dressing and a salad garnish.

Off to a great start then and it got even better. Paul demonstrated his exquisite touch with CL’s Pan Fried medallions of Monkfish with mango, red onion and lemon salsa and that touch, which lets the food speak for itself, was also evident in my Pan Seared Fillets of John Dory (above) with an herb and apricot natural yoghurt.
Enjoyed the banter with the friendly staff as the meal went on and soon, too soon, it was time for dessert. The special Crème Brûlée was served with softly whipped cream and an almond tuille basket, a tasty finish and good value at €5.50. In fact, good value and terrific cooking all told.
Worth a call, for sure.
Blarney Castle Hotel contact details
Phone: 021 438 5116                 
email : info@blarneycastlehotel.com




Thursday, August 8, 2013

Food and Drink Spotting

Food and Drink Spotting

Retracing the footsteps of Cork’s Winegeese
Ted Murphy, wine historian and author of 'A Kingdom of Wine - The Story of Ireland's Wine Geese' - will lead a walking tour, ‘retracing the footprints of Cork’s Wine Geese families’ - their connections in Cork - the street names, buildings and places, and people originally from Cork, connected with some of the famous wine families of the world.
Starting point: The Port of Cork Building (inside reception area upstairs.)
Time: 3.30pm, Saturday 17th August 2013
To book places (free event, but advance booking advised) please contact the ‘Bringing the Wine Geese Home’ committee members - contact details http://bringingthewinegeesehome.com/contacts/
A Taste of Austria with Operettas

The Haffner family of Rolf’s Country House, Baltimore invite you to experience an Austrian night with two renowned singers from the Opera House of Vienna, one of whom started his career in the Viennese Boys Choir, and they will perform operettas to compliment the Viennese menu.

Venue: Rolfs Restaurant, Baltimore
Date & Time: Friday 6th September, 7pm
Price: Three course set menu
Contact: Reservations and inquiries 028 20289

Bread Sold Unwrapped
Q Is it a legal requirement to wrap bread in Farmers Markets or local shops? 

It is not a legal requirement to wrap bread at farmers markets or local shops. It is however, a legal requirement that food is protected from any contamination. This applies to all food at all stages in the food chain. So, if the bread is properly protected it does not have to be wrapped.

In deciding if bread needs to be wrapped you need to consider.....
More on the subject here from the FSAI http://www.fsai.ie/faqs/bread_sold_unwrapped.html
Farm to Fork.
This event gives the visitor an unique opportunity to experience an organic beef farm, followed by a demonstration by Willie Walsh, Craft Butcher, of the various cuts of beef and culminating in a beef feast in the traditional surroundings of Annie May’s bar and restaurant.

Venue: Micheal Hurley’s Organic Beef farm, Walsh’s Craft Butcher shop and Annie May’s Bar and Restaurant.
Time: 4:30pm, meet at Castlehaven GAA grounds, Walsh’s at 6:30pm and dinner at 7:30pm
Price: €20, early booking essential
Contact: 028 22930
Monday Sept 9th

One bottle free when you buy five, until end of August
Replenish your stocks with a straightforward deal.
Choose any combination of six bottles from our shops until the end of the month, and get the least expensive bottle free when you mention this promotion. It couldn't be simpler to say NO to ordinary wine and turn every day of good weather into a special occasion.

Caroline and Eddie's Farm, Cloghduv. Off the Macroom Road
Sunday, August 25, 2013 at 5.00pm
Sit down beside the lake and enjoy live music from The Hard Ground. Walk through winding paths and see where everything is grown, all chemical free. The feast, designed by The Rocket Man, will be based on the farms harvest.

Barbecue's, paella pans and grills will be all fired up to serve starts and deserts on the hoof.
For the feast we will be digging a pit in which we will be roasting lamb for 24 hours leading up to the event with of course all 29 crops making an appearance.

Relax and drink local beer as the sun sets over the lake.

This unique one-off event promises a family fun evening with a camping area provided for those who may plan on enjoying themselves into the night.

Tickets are priced at €50 per head and this includes entrance to the site, a feast fit for kings and a few glasses of all things nice. Children come free.

Tickets available at:

Mahon Point Farmers Market - Rocket Man's Stall
Douglas Farmers Market - Rocket Man's Stall
Midelton Farmers Market - Rocket Man's Stall
Coal Quay Farmers Market - Caroline's Stall
Macroom Farmers Market - Caroline's Stall

Barbecue for hope foundation @the Walton court,Oysterhaven ,Sunday 18 th August 2 to 4 pm RSVP