Food and Drink Spotting. Smoker Bill Casey.

Food and Drink Spotting

Bill Casey.

Shanagarry Smoked Salmon

Lots of big names at the Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine last weekend but also some "smaller" names, very important to the local scene. One such is Bill Casey, the man behind Casey’s Fish Products and in particularly the Shanagarry Oak Smoked Organic Irish Salmon.

Came across this quality product a few months back at Pat Short’s Pub in nearby Castlemartyr and took the opportunity to revisit it on a slice of brown bread at Bill’s stall in the Big Shed in Ballymaloe.

The company is a family run business, is based in Shanagarry, and supplies the hotel, restaurant and export markets. The Smoked Salmon is produced using the highest grade Irish organic Salmon, reared in the Atlantic Ocean off the West Coast.

For smoking Bill uses a mixture of oak and beech chippings. “Great attention to detail is paid in the process from salting, washing and smoking, to ensure a uniform and consistent product.”

And, you’ll be glad to know that all pin bones are removed before packing. Apart from salt and smoke, no additives are used in the process.

Contact details

Address: Shanagarry, Midleton, Co. Cork.

Phone: 021-4646955 and 086-6611468.

Email: smokiecasey@gmail.com.

Cronin’s Pub May-hem!

Put the 26th May in your diary for a Soul & Seafood Experience: three chefs, outdoor seafood dining and all while listening to the sounds of "Soul Driven" a seven piece soul band from Cork.

Denis Cronin, the pub’s in house cooking guru, will be whipping up his famous Mad Fish Stew. Alongside will be Ted Berner and Ivan Whelan of Wild Side Catering. Expect oysters, mussels, periwinkles and a whole lot more fabulous fishy treats, for you to enjoy.

More info here

From  3 - 7pm, Sunday, 26th May.

Shorts

Nevin's Cheese Cake at BallymaloeLitFest gets international praise!

Come celebrate this Thursday 9th May, Richy's 11th anniversary. For one night only house wine for 11 Euro per bottle. Call 023 8821852. Bookings only at the Clonakilty restaurant.

Douglas Tea Room are joining the fun of the French Dining Weekend from this Thursday (9th) to Sunday (12th). Check out the menu!

Tweet from: Jacobs On The Mall ‏@JacobsOnTheMall GREAT NEWS ANNOUNCEMENT! Starting this Thursday 9 May we are opening for lunch each Thurs & Fri from 12-3. Sample menu here! http://jacobsonthemall2010.arobis40.com/sample-lunch-menu …

Goat cheese and Serrano ham, an unusual combination.

Don’t forget the 2nd French Food and Wine Festival (mainly in On the Pig’s Back in Douglas) starts this Thursday evening and continues until late Saturday. Details here.

Glenisk launches new pop-up store in Dublin

Glenisk launches a new pop-up store in Dublin

 

Banana Caramel

Dark Chocolate and Orange

Glenisk has launched a new pop-up store in Dublin. Situated at the corner of Dawson  Street and Duke Street, the store is called Glenisk Upfront & Personal, playing on the theme of pop up and shop front, and celebrating the opportunity to meet customers in person. The store, which will open for 10 weeks, aims to demonstrate the versatility of its organic yogurt, through a series of creative flavour combinations of the sweet and savoury variety.

 Glenisk’s Upfront & Personal is being managed by Christine Jordan, who has spent three months devising recipes for the store. The recipes feature many leading Irish food producers, like Goatsbridge Smoked Trout and Burren Smokehouse Organic Salmon, while also embracing global food themes. As well as smoked fish, savoury options include Carrot, Beetroot & Apple Salad with Orange Harissa Dressing; Greek Salad; and Mexican Bean & Avocado combinations. Each savoury dish is served with delicious Rosemary & Olive Oil Crostini, baked especially for Glenisk at Moore Street’s renowned Paris Bakery.

 Sweet treats include Greek Style Natural Yogurt with Dark Chocolate, Orange, Pistachio & Honey; Turkish Figs in Spiced Syrup with Toasted Almonds; Fresh Fruit, Granola & Honey; and Banana, Caramel & Milk Chocolate. The store will also offer a wide selection of delicious Cheesecakes and Smoothies, prepared with Glenisk Organic Yogurt and Crème Fraiche. Read more.

...hunting for the trumpets of the dead

We went hunting for the trumpets of the dead….. To find the trumpets of the dead, you need sharp eyes, stout boots and knowledgeable neighbours.

The trumpets of the dead lurk in sodden banks of rotting leaves at the edge of the forest. They resemble truncated body parts of alien creatures……

But les trompettes des morts are mushrooms; queer-looking mushrooms but, despite their unappetising appearance and gothic-horror name, safe to eat. Safe is not the right word. They are wonderful to eat.

From Our Man in Paris by John Lichfield

Les sœurs Jacques

Les sœurs Jacques

Jacques, one of Cork’s oldest restaurants,  has always had two smiling sisters, Jacque and Eithne. Now it’s got two entrances, the latest onto Oliver Plunkett Street. Two styles also as here, in this comfortable informal space, something lighter, close to tapas, is served on small (not that small, mind you!) plates. But, don’t worry, the quality is as high as ever.

Jacque had the day off when we called for some early bites but Eithne was there as the new space filled up about six o’clock last Friday evening; it opens for the tapas at 5.30pm. Had a look at the short wine list – fits on a page - and started with a carafe (250ml) of the Picpoul de Pinet 2011, Domaine Delsol, Languedoc, quite a decent example of the type.

Made our first food choices from the blackboard, which is small and brought to your table. Picked two fish dishes for sharing, one was Fish Cakes with tartare sauce (8.00) and the other was Crab Toes Asian Style (7.00). A delightful duo.

Onto to the next round and a new wine, this time a glass each of the appropriately named Domaine St Jacques  d’Albas, a really good Minervois from the south of France.

More choices now as the board came again and this time the picks were Mexican Style Meat Balls with Tomato Fondue (7.00), really tasty with just a hint of piquancy. And we also ordered and thoroughly enjoyed the USA style sticky ribs with Jacque’s slaw (9.00).

Jacques Restaurant is located at the heart of Cork City near the G.P.O. They are open Monday 10am - 4pm and Tuesday - Saturday 10am - 10pm. Lunch is served from 12pm - 4pm, side plates and tapas from 5.30pm to 10pm and the evening dinner menu (in the “old” section) is available between 6pm and 10pm. Those sisters will keep you going all day long!

The TASTE Council of Ireland

The TASTE Council of Ireland

The TASTE Council of Ireland*, in conjunction with Bord Bia, last Friday launched the ‘Future is Food’ education module at the third national food symposium at Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Co. Cork, with over 100 artisan food industry and education representatives in attendance. The theme of this year’s symposium was education in order to address how to broaden the appeal of local foods, artisanal foods and speciality foods for future generations. The module is aimed at increasing Transition Year students’ awareness and understanding of the food industry and the artisan sector in particular.

Referring to the launch of the initiative, Simon Coveney, TD, Minister for Agriculture, Food and the Marine stated “Food Harvest 2020 highlighted the emergence of a significant artisan food sector, responding to consumer demands for locally produced and distinctive foods. This has brought a new stream of entrepreneurs into the artisan sector, which now directly supports 3,000 jobs. The ‘Food is the Future;’ Transition Year module will introduce a new generation of students to the richness of local food and to the skills required for taking micro food enterprises to the next level.  I would like to thank and congratulate the Taste Council and the pilot schools for committing to an exciting project highlighting food as a driver of the local economy.”

The ‘Food is Future’ Module

Discussing the role of education in the future of Ireland’s artisan sector, Cait Noone, Education Spokesperson, TASTE Council of Ireland, said, “The ‘Food is Future’ module aims to highlight and explore how practical education can increase students’ appreciation of the economic, environmental and social benefits of the food industry. We need to teach the younger generation about the immense value that artisan food producers play in Ireland’s agricultural landscape and relay the unique product and brand stories.”

West Cork Food at Prestigious Loch Fyne Food Fair

West Cork Food at Loch Fyne Food Fair in Scotland 18 - 19 May 2013

Roy Brett (right) in West Cork in 2011

Stephen Sage, editor of West Cork Food, brings us up to date on another exciting development:

Following the success of the Celtic Cook Off over the past two years, the West Cork Food/Celtic Cook Off working group have been invited to take part in the two-day Loch Fyne Food Fair in Scotland in May.

The invitation comes from Roy Brett, Celtic Cook Off winner for 2011 and guest chef during the 2012 event when he staged a Taste of Ondine night at the West Cork Hotel Restaurant; a menu based on that of his acclaimed Edinburgh restaurant and featuring West Cork food products. Roy is also Culinary Director at Loch Fyne Oyster Bar and Restaurant in Argyll.

Going Natural – New Trends in Wine

Going Natural – New Trends

A talk and tasting with Mary Dowey and Pascal Rossignol

Topics include Natural Wines, Old Vines, Sulphur and Biodynamic Wine

Philippe Chaume. The Vinsobres estate organic since 1997 and certified biodynamic since 2009.
Picture courtesy of  http://www.provencefoodandwine.com

The Carrigaun Room (in the Grainstore) was full as Mary Dowey and Pascal Rossignol began their talk and tasting with a look at Biodynamic wines as part of last weekend’s marvellous Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine.

Mary thought the move to organic and biodynamic was one of “the most positive sides to the wine world” over the past two decades or so. She described biodynamics as “organics with knobs on" and "some very big names have adopted it”.

Our first wine, to illustrate biodynamic, was the Monte Dall-Ora Valpolicella Classico Saseti (Veneto). Pascal told us this came from a 7-9 hectare vineyard, a recent venture, bought as an almost organic vineyard and then they went bio. “It is all care and attention, hand harvested, all small scale so as not to damage the fruit. Almost a labour of love!” 

Pascal Rossignol

The next topic was natural wines. This is “a new level again”...”kind of controversial”...”up in the air”. But it means as naturally as possible. Practitioners try and recreate the natural balance in and around the vineyards. The timing of the harvest is vital as no additives will be used. “These wines have a vibrancy and a natural balance.”

There are no written rules, no classification, but there are some must follow steps and guidelines:

-          Manual harvest

-          Minimum use of sulphites

-          Quick to winery

-          Sulphites reduced as healthy fruit more able to fight oxidization

-          Babysit the process

Mary Dowey

-          Natural yeasts only to be used.

Pascal: “These wines are alive, really agree with you, more magic in the wine and are noted for their digestibility as much as for their drinkability.”

And certainly that seemed to be the case with our second wine, the Breton Vouvray La Dilettante (Loire 2011). Really liked this Chenin Blanc. Breton are very influential in the natural wine making world and I look forward to tasting more of it on its home ground later in the summer.

Now we were on to sulphites*. These occur naturally in wine but it is the use of them during the process at different stages (including the bottling) that add up and give a problem for some people who may be allergic to them. In the world of organic and natural wines, the purists don’t use sulphites but some others might use just a fraction of what is allowed (by the appellation). 

Our chemical free wine was the Alfredo Maestro Tejoro,Vina Almate Tempranillo (2012). It weighed in with a 14.5% abv “but that was the year that was in it”. The producers felt they had enough rules and regulations to follow in making the wine without also complying with the Ribera del Duero classification system so the words Ribera del Duero do not appear on the bottle.

Old Vines. What's the deal?

“The subject of old vines has been gathering momentum in recent years. But what’s the deal?” asked Mary as we reached that subject. What is old? She reckoned it had to be forty years at least and cautioned that not all varieties benefit from older vines. It doesn’t do anything for Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot but Grenache is well suited.

The main benefit is an “intensity of flavour, really concentrated”. And she had the perfect example, the Chaume-Arnaud Vinsobres (Rhone 2010). Vinsobres is a higher level on the Rhone ladder in any event but this wine, biodynamic and from old vines, is a gem, well balanced, with lovely acidity, harmony and soft tannins. Gorgeous.

Pascal’s wine shop in  Kilkenny specialises in these types of wine and you may check it out here. 

Mary spends much of her time in Provence and, as I know from first hand experience, has a terrific website on the area with great tips on restaurants and food producers. Click here.

* Wine is not the only thing that sulphites turn up in. In the US, the FDA has published this list.

Tastings in the Big Shed

Tastings in the Big Shed

Tastings galore in the Big Shed as the Ballymaloe Literary Festival continued on Sunday: Sherry, Whiskey (and cheese), Douro Wines including Ports and a bunch of Rieslings. Haven’t had this much fun in a barn since sneakily draining a few bottles of porter at a threshing about 1960!

Sherry sorting by Ballymaloe's Colm McCann (right).

Ballymaloe’s Colm McCan is a big sherry fan so no surprise that the famous wines of Jerez featured here. The surprise perhaps was that they were introduced by the Irish Examiner wine writer Leslie Williams who did a superb job.

The tasting concentrated on the Dry Sherry, Fino and Manzanilla. And the big surprise and a delightful one was the fact that a couple of En Rama, including a superb one by Tio Pepe, were included. The great thing about en rama is that the wine doesn’t go through the Solera system but is bottled in its natural state. It is therefore more intense and a bit more complex. But it does need to be consumed within a few months of bottling.

The bad news about En Rama is that you are unlikely to find it in Ireland but do look out for it in Spain. If you do come across it, get yourself a few slices of Iberico and enjoy!

Strong stuff! Holding on to the Power!

On then to the Single Pot Irish Whiskey demo by the folks from L Mulligan Grocers, matched with Irish Farmhouse cheeses. “Everything on the table is from Cork except for the goat cheese.”

First pairing was the Green Spot single malt and a mature (April 2012) cheese from Coolea. We were up and running and beginning to believe in the pairings. That belief was enhanced with the next tasty double, the traditional Pot Still Redbreast matched with the soft, creamy, mild yet zesty Fivemiletown Goat Cheese from County Tyrone.

The next whiskey was the Power’s, “a bit more punch here than normal with an ABV of 46%, a superb whiskey finished in sherry cask (which are expensive)”. If the drink had power, so too had the Hegarty’s Mature Cheddar. This was the strongest flavoured pairing and, on a show of hands, the most popular.

Great Douro line-up, Dows 85 nearest camera.

New glasses appeared as Maurice O’Mahony of Wine Alliance started his demo of wines and ports from the Douro Valley, “a challenging environment that produces great wines”. And he prove his point with two of his own wines, a smooth and brilliant white and an excellent limited production red, both by Quinta du Judeu.

“I love Port”, said Maurice, as he enthusiastically moved on to that section with two fine examples from Nieport. But the star here was to be the Dows Single Vintage 1985, “the top of the pyramid” made in the very year that Maurice did his inter-cert (not verified) and also the year that the very first mobile call was made.

The label on this bottle looked the worse for wear but there was nothing at all wrong with the stunning contents. Absolutely gorgeous and a pleasure to be there to taste it.

Light, in more ways than one: just 8%

And yet more good things to come, all in the name of Riesling and under the guidance of one of the variety’s most genial supporters John McDonnell. “Riesling is not homogenous,” declared the man form Ballyvaughan. “It has many different styles, which can be confusing, from very sweet to searingly dry. Makes it all the more interesting.”

Started off with the full dry style of the Wolf Blass from Australia. Next was the 2005 Trimbach. This had the deeper colour of its age, more texture and richer. But it also had this whiff of petrol that older Riesling acquires. 

Then came the sweeter but very well balanced style of Willie Haag’s 2004 from the Mosel. Just 8 per cent alcohol and “delicious on a warm summer’s day”.

John McDonnell makes a point!

Finished off with a dessert gem: Mount Horrocks 2001 Cordon Cut. The Cordon Cut refers to the way the vines are trained (also used with other fruit a and superbly illustrated by John holding out those long arms!). This is a good intro to the type. It is lighter and cleaner than most stickies (the name Oz gives to its sweet wines) and John says the acidity keeps it fresh and bright.

A bit of a marathon then in the tasting corner of the Big Shed, so time to head off and get something to eat and head for home. What a day. What a weekend at Ballymaloe! 

The Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine Pictorial!

The Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine Pictorial!

Ger Buckley (left), Master Cooper at Midleton Distillery, shows how it is done.

Great to meet up with Susan Boyle, volunteer and performer.
 Catch her one woman show A Wine Goose Chase (Kinsale July, Cork August)

Just a few of the Wines by the Wine Geese

The Conroy family of Woodside family fed
the crowds with their free range pork and bacon

Kenny's of Galway brought a car load of books!

The Rocketman (left) was flying and here
many tiring punters got the juice to carry on for
another few hours. Super salads!

Emer(left) and Clare meet Neven.

Today in the Big Shed at Ballymaloe LitFest

Today in the Big Shed at Ballymaloe

 Literary Festival of Food and Wine 

Clockwise from top left: Cooper demo; John McDonnell (Riesling tasting);
L. Mulligan Grocer Whiskey and Cheese pairing; Bradger & Dodo new package;
cameo performance by Susan Boyle; Maurice O'Mahony of
Wine Alliance with Wines and Ports of the Duoro;
Leslie Williams on Sherry;
and Pulled Pork Bap from Woodside.

Neven Maguire at Ballymaloe

A People's Person!

I'm very much a people's person
First boy in school to do home economics
Porridge, with honey, cream and Irish Whiskey, is the most popular dish in the restaurant
Food and GIY go hand in hand
Modern Irish now? Local seasonal ingredients in  different combinations with different techniques...not a mish mash....balance...I like to add Asian influences...don't over-complicate it...
Stars not a priority. Happy with Michelin tyres on my car...stars can be a double edged sword.
Look after your key people....respect!

Neven, a terrific supporter of Irish produce (not to mention a host of good causes), is rightly proud of what he has done in that small village of Blacklion in Cavan. He isn't finished yet. Far from it. Next step is to set up a cookery school.
Well done Neven. We are proud to have you. Enjoy your day off today!

Ballymaloe LitFest

Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine

Clockwise from top left: Treats Petit; Bill Casey; Anthony Cresswell of Ummera;
Nevin's cheesecake; Neven Maguire; Graffiti in the shed; Lolo's Breton Crepes;
and Tony Farrell's bowl.

Terrific day in Ballymaloe. So much to see and do, to eat and drink and sample. Lots for the kids as well. And it all goes ahead again tomorrow and Monday. Get the details here

The Wine Geese Return in Style!

“The Return of The Wine Geese” Black Tie banquet will bring together wines with an Irish heritage from around the globe with wonderful food in the beautiful Fleming's Restaurant.  

The full line-up of wines that will feature on the night will follow shortly.  Tickets are available from O’Donovans Off Licence Head Office only and are €100. 

Tickets are limited to 4 per booking and are must be pre-paid.  Contact Deirdre or Rose on 021-4296060 for details.

Bringing The Wine Geese Home

Gala Banquest at Flemings Restaurant, Cork City

Saturday 18^th May 2013

7.30pm Drinks Reception ~ 8.00pm Seated for Dinner

Pate de Foie Gras

Pate of Foie Gras, served with its own jelly

Tossed leaf salad and melba toast

Conift de Voalille , wonton de Canard

Home smoked chicken ballotine and wonton of duck confit

Served with a compot of fresh orange

Paupiette de sole Limande

Paupiette of sole served with pink grapefruit , served with a light saffron sauce

Sorbet de champagne

Champagne sorbet served with passion fruit and a sweet balsamic glaze

Longe D’agneau roti

Roast Loin of Lamb , ragout of sweetbread and a light rosemary”jus”

Trio de Fromage

Tipperary mature Cashel Blue

West Cork Mileens

Cork Hegary’s cheddar

Dessert

Tart au Citron, vanilla ice-cream and marinated strawberries

Cafe